Felix Gustavsson

Last send and highlight of our Leonidio trip. Very technical and fun to work out.

Pumped for my dear life. Pushed far from a bolt and hoped for something good to clip. Was rewarded with a jug.

I went for the right option with the big undercling. Gave a nice series of moves. Could also go straight, but this may have been slightly harder. Did not notice any chipping, but I may have an untrained eye.

Overhanging on big holds. 10 move power endurance sequence. Easy to read from the ground apart from one hold which ends the sequence.

Nina led P1 then I led the rest. Linked P2 and P3. P5 anchor is easy to miss (but recommend to stop here). Missed the P6 anchor, it is to the left before the exit pitch. Linked P6 and P7. Cool route with exposure but loose rock towards the end.

Nice!

Amazing route with many cool holds. Chickened out on the crux move on the onsight. Sent it 2nd go

trying some easier climbs after sickness

Not sure which way to go over the bulge. If on the right, probably more 6c.

Not 7a but a cool, reachy route on good holds.

Enjoyable and soft.

I trusted my Vibram rubber and sent the route. Hardest of the 6c+'s here? Pumpeli pump.

Nina led route after me. One quite hard move for 5c

First climbing day in Leonidio. Nice route with hard crux.

Med Marcus i solnedgången. Finaste leden jag har gjort i Utby. Lite mental, för det är långt mellan bultarna :)

Sick wall, sick crux and a memorable team climb with Marcus and Nina in the dark. Maybe single hardest move I've done on trad so far.

Pumped out on onsight attempt. Also, you can make the roof climb very very unergonomic if you don't see the undercling :)

First 7- <3 Sporty style with a traddy end

Misunderstood the start of the route and accidentally made it a 4-pitch route. First "pitch" consisted of crawling through bushes and loose rock. Concluded that it was easier to go up than down. Then learnt that you literally can just walk 5 meters from the main wall :) The actual 3 pitches on the route were superb on big, yet loose holds on slightly overhanging terrain. Well bolted and easy repell. Recommend

simply amazing but soft indeed

2x beta sensitive cruxes. 3rd go

First 7A* flash. *Strongly questioning the grade :) Nice big dead point move but that's about it.

Cool moves on cool holds.

Disrespected by Nina

Huge move onto perfectly carved crimp

God damn that sit start

Did by accident

An old nemesis revisited. A hard and mental 6c

Really amazing crux sequence!! 3rd go

A beauty with a bouldery crux intro and ending pump section on small tufas and slippery footholds

Great climb but Pompas Finas is better ;) Also not worthy of it's + grade.

If this is not 3 stars then I don't know what is. Perfect tufa, blob climb. It's kalymnos but with actual friction.

World class

Fell with the anchor in front of my eyes. Did not mind climbing it again, amazing route. 2nd go

Crimps crimps crimps high feet. Anchor clip was interesting, t shirt got stuck, quickdraw on wrong side, a guy hanging to my left. Beautiful, first 7b onsight <3

Very nice indeed. Black unchalked tufas spooked me out for the anchor clip but turned out to be really easy.

Had to work reaaallly hard for this one. Has my exact anti-style move (defined by Martin): poor feet, slight layback into dyno move to jug. 4th attempt it stuck. The climb then has a no-limbs rest but ends with a mental section in a dihedral onto an arete on kind of loose holds. Almost jinxed it there

Delightful lower section and pumpy upper section. Was told "don't look for better holds and just go". Good information lol

A tufa battle in 28 degrees. Sent on 2nd go but was incredibly(!) close to falling twice. "På rövhåret" as we say in swedish. Use kneepad on left.

7a+ in topo and I agree. I suck at boulder routes and Tommi is just abnormally strong.

First route in Chuilla. Really the La Danza of this place. Happy to onsight. Took forever.

Screwed up the start. Went down, untied and onsighted the rest. Amazing route

Absolutely brilliant technical route. Probably one of my most enjoyed routes.