Felix Gustavsson

Last send and highlight of our Leonidio trip. Very technical and fun to work out.

Pumped for my dear life. Pushed far from a bolt and hoped for something good to clip. Was rewarded with a jug.

I went for the right option with the big undercling. Gave a nice series of moves. Could also go straight, but this may have been slightly harder. Did not notice any chipping, but I may have an untrained eye.

Overhanging on big holds. 10 move power endurance sequence. Easy to read from the ground apart from one hold which ends the sequence.

Nina led P1 then I led the rest. Linked P2 and P3. P5 anchor is easy to miss (but recommend to stop here). Missed the P6 anchor, it is to the left before the exit pitch. Linked P6 and P7. Cool route with exposure but loose rock towards the end.

Nice!

Amazing route with many cool holds. Chickened out on the crux move on the onsight. Sent it 2nd go

trying some easier climbs after sickness

Not sure which way to go over the bulge. If on the right, probably more 6c.

Not 7a but a cool, reachy route on good holds.

Enjoyable and soft.

I trusted my Vibram rubber and sent the route. Hardest of the 6c+'s here? Pumpeli pump.

Nina led route after me. One quite hard move for 5c

First climbing day in Leonidio. Nice route with hard crux.

Med Marcus i solnedgången. Finaste leden jag har gjort i Utby. Lite mental, för det är långt mellan bultarna :)

Sick wall, sick crux and a memorable team climb with Marcus and Nina in the dark. Maybe single hardest move I've done on trad so far.

Pumped out on onsight attempt. Also, you can make the roof climb very very unergonomic if you don't see the undercling :)

First 7- <3 Sporty style with a traddy end

Misunderstood the start of the route and accidentally made it a 4-pitch route. First "pitch" consisted of crawling through bushes and loose rock. Concluded that it was easier to go up than down. Then learnt that you literally can just walk 5 meters from the main wall :) The actual 3 pitches on the route were superb on big, yet loose holds on slightly overhanging terrain. Well bolted and easy repell. Recommend

simply amazing but soft indeed

2x beta sensitive cruxes. 3rd go

First 7A* flash. *Strongly questioning the grade :) Nice big dead point move but that's about it.

Cool moves on cool holds.

Disrespected by Nina

Huge move onto perfectly carved crimp

God damn that sit start

Did by accident

An old nemesis revisited. A hard and mental 6c

Really amazing crux sequence!! 3rd go

A beauty with a bouldery crux intro and ending pump section on small tufas and slippery footholds

Great climb but Pompas Finas is better ;) Also not worthy of it's + grade.

If this is not 3 stars then I don't know what is. Perfect tufa, blob climb. It's kalymnos but with actual friction.

World class

Fell with the anchor in front of my eyes. Did not mind climbing it again, amazing route. 2nd go

Crimps crimps crimps high feet. Anchor clip was interesting, t shirt got stuck, quickdraw on wrong side, a guy hanging to my left. Beautiful, first 7b onsight <3

Very nice indeed. Black unchalked tufas spooked me out for the anchor clip but turned out to be really easy.

Had to work reaaallly hard for this one. Has my exact anti-style move (defined by Martin): poor feet, slight layback into dyno move to jug. 4th attempt it stuck. The climb then has a no-limbs rest but ends with a mental section in a dihedral onto an arete on kind of loose holds. Almost jinxed it there

Delightful lower section and pumpy upper section. Was told "don't look for better holds and just go". Good information lol

A tufa battle in 28 degrees. Sent on 2nd go but was incredibly(!) close to falling twice. "På rövhåret" as we say in swedish. Use kneepad on left.

7a+ in topo and I agree. I suck at boulder routes and Tommi is just abnormally strong.

First route in Chuilla. Really the La Danza of this place. Happy to onsight. Took forever.

Screwed up the start. Went down, untied and onsighted the rest. Amazing route

Absolutely brilliant technical route. Probably one of my most enjoyed routes.

Felt just incredibly hard the first go. Probably mostly mental. Loved the climb nevertheless, very varied and an "adventure".

My most "important" onsight. A pleasure. Our Nathaniel did it without kneebars - I don't know how or why.

What a brutal boulder crux, had to yell.

Not 7a in a million years. Really cool adventurous feeling route though.

Shape was on point this day. Very physical route with potential for many kneebars (I used one). Don't cut loose.

Not sure what the "devious" final move was. Nevertheless, a nice short bouldery route.

Top tier beta from Nathan. Great route with two broken up sections. Top tufa is "glassy" :)

Powerful tufa start, use right knee pad! Two no-hands rests and a brutal pockety ending with bad feet. I prayed my fingers would not break the second go. Just simply amazing route.

Loved the easier slab part and especially the crux. Felt like someone had tried to set an actual tricky boulder problem. Really fun!

A lot of muscling was used here... Hard to see where the tufas are good, so every move felt unnecessarily hard. 3rd bolt was a bit strange to clip, my quickdraw almost didn't fit between the tufas :O Very enjoyable climb nevertheless

Some kid described it as the best 7a on Kalymnos. A little bit of an overstatement, but it is really a nice very long route with no distinct crux. 40 meters of continuous 6b moves on smooth and pleasing holds.

Fingery crux. Hoped that my fingers would not snap when I pulled on the shallow 2-finger pocket. Went straight up in the end, it's easier than it looks and the moves are nice. Man am I glad not to have to repeat this route.

Intimidating technical start on small foothold but eases up and becomes very joyful.

A wonderful first 20 meters of moderately pumpy climbing on good holds. Had some info about going left of the arete instead of straight on, so logging as flash... I think it helped quite a bit. Route then "starts over" with a technical, yet pumpy upper section (6c+?) where you can easily screw your send up.

Proper long on smooth(!) holds. And smooth is a good quality here, not to be confused with polish.

I don't think I have ever been "stuck" so long in the crux of a route but still ending up sending. A group of germans were yelling the beta while I fought to hold on. Desperate and amazing send.

Really nice moves and observation spot. Every hold can be inspected from eye-level from the big boulder. Onsight friendly. Although I was literally grabbing every hold when being lowered from the neighboring route - logging this as a flash I guess. Not sure what the ethics say....

The big move is not that big. But the move to reach the second tufa... puh... some real power and grunting required from me. Rest is surviving the pump on moderately good tufa holds. Don't stop. P.S. Sorry for almost killing a guy by dropping a quickdraw from the anchor

Surprisingly good climb! Really good warm up route, physical start followed by precise footwork. Although you probably want to jump on the right wall as early as possible before the crowd arrives :)

Quite fit my "epa tractor" style. Not a single big move, just keep on flowing through the moves. There is one extremely slippery crimp hold in the crux for the left hand which needs extra care. Fell off without any warning on the first attempt. 2nd go

Nice crux involving a hard pinch and quite unique undercling-pocket-tufa hold. "I did not think you had it" - random guy from the crag.

Wow what a climb! For climbers from Gothenburg - think "green wall" in klätterlabbet. Anchor clip really was a fight. Find the sharp 3 finger slot and clip fast. There is nothing better...

Little spicy boulder problem in the start (pinch strength required) followed by a technical section. Good candidate for onsight as you can essentially inspect every hold from the ground. Decide where to grab the tufas, where to clip the 3rd draw from and that will help a lot!

Not a big fan of this one, 3 stars is a very inflated rating. Nice climb the first few meters, but the rest is transport on sharp holds.

Perfect pocket warm up. One of the better 6b's!

Boring start followed by 3d jug climbing and a solid kneebar opportunity for your right leg.

Very unusual for kalymnos. Crimpy technical wall, just how I like it. Felt more like climbing on granite again. Two cruxes, one low and one two draws before the anchor. Key is resting well before the second crux and not messing around with the clip before the anchor. Find an OK hold and commit to it, don't panic search for something better! (Fell on my flash due to this)

Amazing short overhung route. Watched some YouTube beta videos at the crag and then sent it. Move quick and deliberately, especially for the clip after the tufas and it's really quite okay.

Well okay then. This one actually has polished feet. But it's not really that big of problem :)

Excellent warm up route.

Oj oj oj. Tough crux for the grade! Not sure what I would have done without the super clear tick marks... Really enjoyed it - my type of route :)

Steep, fast gym climbing. Excellent and over in a heart beat.

Perfect warm up route. Pockets, underclings, jugs... Has it all!

Easy climbing on structures followed by some harder sections. Magnificent rests. Crux is deciding which hold to clip the anchor from. Not 7a like the guide suggests.

A route can not have a better rest spot. I was considering having my daily stand-up meeting from the stalactites. Some harder boulder moves on the top tufa, but nothing too dramatic.

Power endurance crux on fingery holds. Froze on the onsight but could send it 2nd go. Very stiff for 6c in my opinion. Print on rock & guide says 6c+

Nah, didn't like this one. Boulder problem and sharp holds.

Little spicy wall climb moves followed by a desperate transition on to the tufa. Wear a knee pad on your right leg. Really fought for the flash - can recommend!

Horizontal stalactite. Not even sure what to call that. But 3 stars is a given. Never 7a though.

Really quite a nice pockety climb! Also a good medium warm-up!

Climbed this against my will. Nothing spectacular...

Long! Thought more about consuming caffeine than my climbing. Managed to keep it together though. Can recommend, many moves, similar in difficulty interspersed by rests.

Now that's more like it. Introduction to polished feet but otherwise fabulous climbing (and oh my god so many bolts).

First route in Kalymnos. Pleasing, but not a 3-star route.

lol

A lot easier than Pumptraversen. Nice ergonomic holds tho!

Ett kneepads-äventyr förgyllt av danska stridsvrål. Kanske en av de bästa lederna jag har klättrat. Starten kändes omöjlig tills beta-kingen Svensson visade framfötterna.

Cool mantling!

Exponerad, teknisk och äcklig :)

Wet

25 meters of dodging wet feet.

Väldigt fina sekvenser. Många flytt för att vara en så kort led. Jan Åke kändes betydligt hårdare så skulle nog ändå säga att denna var ganska soft.

Nice climbing. Big nuts slot in quite nicely!

Led P2, P4 and half of P7. Followed the crux pitch after Marcus' heroicly aided the wet slab section. Slab can be done in the wet, but is mentally challenging. Last off width crack, where a helicopter rescue was needed 2015, can really just be laybacked and it's fine. Took us an incredible 11.5 hours, but we were slow and stopped for fika.

Very beta dependent crux for me. Perfect beta from Marcus with the right leg flag to reach the crack hold. Really like this route!

Insecure start. Almost lost a good friend of mine. Hidden under dirt, dust and spiderwebs lies a fun route with an unforgiving ending.

Almost pumped out trying to perfect my cam placement. 2x DARK blue cams just before the nose. For the mantle move, put your lower limbs to the left side to make it easy.

3 pieces of bad gear, but at least one has to hold.... right? Pretty cool ending though

Short and not very exciting. Two ways down: either by traversing a dubious mossy ledge or downclimbing. I chose the latter, only due to well chosen words from Martin.

Cheeky mantle move on small, expensive micros. Nice. A #6 can be used for maximum safety.

Nice and easy trad route. Commiting first moves around the roof. Just don't fall and you are fine

Pre placed

Spicy start for 6a. A fun climb nevertheless

Techy start with mono followed by telephone handle rest into a hard-to-onsight pumpfest and not trivial top. 10/10 would climb again

Flowy 5b start into a hard(!) crux on the 6b part on the route. Quite nice exposure on the top. Gets my recommendation even though the top is quite sharp.. Also: Don't forget to untie your eight knot before you pull the rope down <3

Hard slab crux in the beginning. The rest is just fun.

Better (harder?) than Tears of Freedom in my opinion. Not as polished and completely dry. Sadly my brain didn't work on the onsight and I messed up clipping the anchor. 2nd go was easy.

Wet. Slipped on the very first move after leaving the ground. A shameful moment. After much discussion, reflection and finally consulting the judge Martin - I have decided to log this as a flash.

Sharp but still quite and technical arete / face climb.

One of the best 6's in the area. Very flowy movement!

The end is sharp!!! Top out is recommended for the view.

Yeah really quite nice

First 5c part is nice. But the 6b+ extension is not. Really easy to cheat with the flake from the route to the right and is also super sharp.

First 7c! Took 12 tries over 4 days. Starts with a tough boulder into an easier tufa section. Ends with a technical traverse crux on small holds and a powerful move onto a big side pull.

I liked it

Quite straight forward face climb with two cruxes separated by a no-hands rest. Skin and project friendly. 2nd go

6b in the guide, but I think 6b+ is justified. Probably also hard to onsight. Really cool top out!

A lot of overhang for a 6a. Two short boulder cruxes and a very sharp top. Climb something else here.

Varying and fun climb. Slab, vertical and overhanging end. Can recommend!

A fun route indeed. Probably the hardest 4 I've done in my life.

Really good route. Probably super hard to onsight. There is a small chance, albeit very small indeed, that I went slightly onto the neighboring route to the left. Regardless, the grade still holds.

First climb in Sicily. Not yet a fan of the polished foot holds. Probably just need to suck it up. A quite sustained, but nice 6a+ nevertheless.

Grävde undan blöta löv i urtoppningen

Fantastic boulder. Great end to a great trip

First 7A :) Thx to finish guy for beta!

Cool traverse followed by easy run out

Destroyed by Nina

Bat hang start. Super nice

First boulder in Åland

Proper gym climb

Nice beta from Marcus&Jonathan. Last move was close call...

Probably easier if you are small (for pressing into the dihedral

First of the grade :) 5-bolt sequence of small moves into easier, exposed climbing. After some practicing it went quite easy

Följde Jonathan.

Guld ju. Exponerad och sportig

Easy compared to other 6A's here. Sharp top

Cool puzzle. Looked impossible at first

"Warm-up"

Lead P1,3,5

A lot of micro beta to remember but worth it in the end <3

Ninja kick + pump. ~Sjunde försöket

2nd go

2nd go. felt weak

Bara stora grepp. Behövs inga miuras här. Kul

Fina leder på väggen. Svårt att hitta ett ställe med hög koncentration av jämna 6a/6a+

jämnaste 6a'n jag har klättrat, skojeliskoj

the longer face climbs to the right were more fun

fingers in holes

a demoralizing ascent

short but intense

Går att göra jävligt jobbigt för sig själv. Ställer man sig upp i fel läge så är det svårt att komma loss. Med en bra sekvens är den inte så konstig.

2nd go. Ganska hårt krux för 6c?

Bultad spricka. Musklig

Fick slita bra mycket mer än på leden till vänster. Men jävlar vilken fin sekvens! 3rd go

Största underclingen jag tagit på i min klätterkarriär. Cool

Laybacka starten så är cruxet helt ok! Fin led, utomlandskänsla!

Hittade en sportled på hallinden. Var tvungen att ticka den. Suspekta block - tradden är roligare här.

Följde Marcus och ledde senare. Kanske bästa tradupplevelsen hittils.

För sent på dagen för att hoppa på något längre. Avverkades snabbt och njutfullt med endast kamplaceringar

Följde först, sen led. Ser ut som en sprickklättringsled - men icke! Går att sporta sig förbi det mesta. Väldigt fin och exponerad

Riktigt fin sportled med lite tradkänsla. Många sköna "fuskjams".

Kort men kul

Inget märkvärdigt

Väldigt jämn

Kul med en trad-led som inte kräver en himla massa sprickteknik :)

Jämn med bra vilor. Tuff start men säkras bra med nötter

Följde Marcus. Skraj

Cool route, overhanging with big holds. Easier the more flexible you are

Quite muscular route on tufas with bad friction. Enjoyable.

One of a kind. I mounted the saxophone

Hard crux and good rests

2nd go. Cool mantle move

An adventure on rock. Not sharp like its neighbors