Emmi Rautkylä

Tosi kiva! Tsekkasin muuvit yliksellä ja liidasin ekalla. Itelle helpompi kuin Tapahtumahorisontti.

Hyvät otteet mutta silti meinas jaxu loppua 😅

Varsinainen tapahtumahorisontti kun kruxin klippi irtos bulgen päällystä klipatessa. Onneks en megapannuttanu kuuseen 🙈

1st go Puukiipijän jälkeen. Ihan hauska!

Hienoa liikehdintää, mukava aloitus reissulle 🙂

Ihan timakka kruxiosuus 😅 Kriittinen ote oli märkä/valutti ja tipuin siitä paristi kunnes keksin että voin nopeesti nyppästä paperitollon pois ennen kuin otan siitä kiinni 😜 Ankkuri voisi olla metrin ylempänäkin mutten ehkä enää tässä vaiheessa lähtisi muuttamaan.

Vähän reachy mut onneks ei liian, monia betavaihtiksia kruxiin

Kiva lämppä

Nåjåå, I was expecting a bit more but sure it was nice to climb sport again. Some interesting moves and good bolting, a star for that!

Hyvä reitti, huono kiipeilijä 😂

Huh hellettä!

Muutama pitkä ja napakka veto

Tuntupa morfolta ja vaikeelta, ei tähtiä

Good holds and moves, no real crux.

2nd go, one move wonder. The start was pretty hard for a shortie 😅

Nice warm up

Checked the moves amd sent it on my first lead go. Such cool crux moves 🤩

Checked the moves and sent it on first lead go. Very nice climb. Soft for the grade compared to other routes here?

Nice moves on good holds

So hard for short. Static moves in the crux.

Checked the moves on toprope and sent it on my 1st lead try. Such a cool line with awesome boulder moves. Two stars!

Felt hard! Powerful and technical at the same time, and hard to read. I followed directly the bolt line.

Felt hard for the grade, but it was pretty warm and slippery so I had to overgrip. Took 2 sessions to find a shortie beta. I sent it on my first lead go.

Cool but sketchy!

Nice moves. Would be three stars without the shelf and reachy clips

Cool moves, pretty straightforward. Easy for taller but with my ~160cm reach I had to make multiple extra moves to get past the crux. A great climb nevertheless!

Nice moves, good warm up

Yesssss!!! This route has everything: crack action, big power moves, cool body positions and long lockoff crimp crux at the end 😅 Happy to send this one! 🥳

Direct ending. For a short climber felt like 7b+ with the top crux. Such a cool line nevertheless! 🤩

Yeah!!! This felt impossible a month ago but I learned a lot during the process. Thanks Emilia for all the tips about hand jams and sport climbing in general 🤩 Such a good flow today 💪

Nice moves, albeit a bit sharp… First 7b I’ve done in a session.

Cool crimping and techical body positions. 1st lead go. Soft?

Superb line and very good bolting!

Getting on the wall is a bit annoying but once you’re there, it has very cool moves and many options for betas

Such a nice line that imo it should be bolted properly. Good naming by Tomi 😜

Bad bolting, no stars

Cool route! Beginning was tricky for a shortie and I also managed to take a huge fall from 1m below the anchor. So quite intensive climbing all the way!

Great route! I had always thought it’s somehow morpho but it really wasnt :P Nice climbing, I didnt find any specific crux?!?

Hard start. I had climbed climbed the left variant many years ago.

Nice climbing, no real crux?

Nice route, but I would have placed the 3rd (?) bolt differently in line with the obvious crux.

Fun!

Nice views but a very crowded line. The new approach along the river is terrible! I led pitches 1 & 3.

Excellent line for the grade, first part is 6b imo.

Very nice climbing but I would say it’s a bit harder, low 6 maybe?

Everything you hope from a sport route: power moves, some foot technique and delicate slab finish.

Great line! Island in direct sun light as the name says :)

Mixed feelings, don't know if I liked it or not.

Stiff!

Surprising

Ok warm-up

Liked it! Onsight was close but I was a bit too hasty in the upper part.

Brain puzzle, nice for the grade.

What a great one! So many different styles combined.

Flash was sooo close! Tough beginning, easy end. Maybe not the best in the area but worth doing!

Pumpy but interesting all the way up!

Nice warm-up. Henri climbed it first but I didnt belay/watch.

Toprope 24.8., lead 3.9. First felt really hard but got a lot easier when you found the correct beta.

Did right variation first.

The topout was tough.

Nice moves

Felt hard. Took 2 big falls (5m) before getting draws into the bolts. IMO the 3rd, 5th and 7th bolt should have been placed a bit lower. Not sure if I recommend this to anyone.

Shortie crux right at the end. Fell so many times on the way to the anchor. However, a great route, real diamond. Powerful and a bit technical too.

It looked awful but was actually quite nice. I would have appreciated having the 2nd bolt 10cm lower...

Hard to onsight. A bit morpho, for shorties like me it could even be 6b+.

Pumpy

Noooooo missed the os. Can only blame myself for making bad choices. Live and learn.

So humid!

One long crux from the beginning until the end, but I did it!

4 years ago top rope, now lead.

Felt very hard for a 6c+. I followed the clip line, and it looked like a hold might have broken there?!? Didn't really feel like leading it...

A great line for the grade. A bit of everything.

I liked the route but not the bolting in the crux, very reachy for a midget like me! Hard to onsight.

I was such a wossy that I first top-roped it and then led it. Should have gone straight into business. Very well bolted. Liked the crux part a lot.

Quite a nice one

2nd go, unnecessary slip caused me the onsight. First 3 clips felt pretty reachy & scary. Didn't like it too much.

2nd session and I was able to nail it! First I thought that it's too spacely bolted but now I don't know where I would even put more bolts... What a great, technical line!

4 years ago top rope, now lead.

Felt hard for a 6a onsight.

The sequence after the 3rd bolt was tricky, lost my onsight there.

Such a great line! Long and beautiful. Make sure you have enough quickdraws.

Great, technical line!

Hard beginning, the rest in a lot easier.

Quite a stiff crux in the middle section

Nice warm up

Nice one, perhaps easier than 6c.

Quite a nice line with different variations on the face or on the right side of the arete.

A great line! There is an error in the topo and it says that this is 7a. Nevertheless worth doing!

Nice and mellow

Technical, reachy crux, but I made it!

Great bouldery crux!

6b in ToposPeru, but I found it easier. I liked it.

The first half is pretty easy but the top part is nice and challenging. One of the best in the area!

The beginning is tricky for a shortie, rest is easy.

Sustainable and nice. A bit technical and pumpy at the same time.

Very nice and mellow.

Very nice and long! Requires 60m rope. Easy start and with a technical crux after the pockets. Rest is again easier.

Took two attempts to figure out the correct sequence, no real crux but pumpy all the way.

Ok warm-up, a bit runnout, 5/6a.

Ok warm-up, short, 5/6a.

Bouldery start with a high first bolt, the rest is easier.

Nice warm-up with pockets, the upper part is a bit more difficult, maybe 6a+.

No hard moves but insanely long bolt spacing! Only 3 bolts + anchor on a 15m route.

Another nice warm-up

Nice warm-up

You need min 60m rope for this! Mine was ~55m and it wasn't enough.

Nice. It had good holds all the way up so it didn't matter eventhough it was a bit runnout.

This was difficult for me, because I had to use such shitty holds in the crux that the taller ones just skipped. Nevertheless a good route!

I think the first 2 bolts are 7b, the rest is easier, maybe 7a or so. I had the first 2 bolts preclipped, some crashpads would be nice to lead it properly.

For me this was a real 7a. Some tricky parts so I was only able to do it with the 2nd go. Highly recommended!

Nice, something for everyone.

Nice, liked it more than L´Alternativa.

Liked it. It has a little bit of everything from crimpy slab to a couple of more powerful moves at the end.

Felt easier than Ay Mamita, but it might have a lot to do with the fact that this was flash.

Very nice but a bit easy for the grade (my first 7a onsight!)

Didn´t like it too much. Spacely bolted, a bit morpho, and the sharp rock distroyed my finger tips.

Great one, highly recommended! No real hard moves but it was sustain all the way. Mentally challenging because it was spacely bolted and at least my crux was at the end of the line.

No real crux, quite nice for a slab.

Siurana style slab.

A bit more difficult than Margarita.

Soft but nice

I didn't see a person climbing it, but I did get some beta beforehand. Awsome route, not very powerful compared to the typical Kalymnos climbing. The topo description says that it's "insanely technical" but didn't think that either. I liked it alot though.

A little bit of everything, liked it!

Felt harder than Ymer. Maybe 6c. Okeyish warm up route.

Nice warm-up

A little bit of everything from slab and crimpers to a bit more overhang and pockets.

Similar to DNA but a bit more technical. 2nd go, missed one essential flake in my flash attempt. Highly recommended!

Classic! My legs look like I was a victim of domestic violence but it's only due to the various knee bars and other half-body rests. More powerful than Ivi but no real crux.

Very nice! Great overhang start and a funny tufa chimney at the end. I think it was a + harder than Joggel Toggel. Also topo suggests 7a for this. Highly recommended!

Great one! Felt harder than Carpe Diem. Also grated as 6b+ in Kalymnos topo 2015.

Nice

Nice warm-up. This is 6a+ in Kalymnos topo 2015, but I agree it felt easier, maybe 6a. Happy girlfriend indeed, but not because of this route :)

Great one! Bouldery start, but I found the short vertical section after that the hardest. Rest is easy with a lot of rests.

When I was toproping the crux seemed to be in the beginning but when leading the crux had moved to the end part. Very strange!

Harder if you try to use the left side of the clip line. Kinda liked this one, especially the name :)

The very best of the area. But I wouldn't go to the crag just for this.

Very hard beginning for a 6b. Bouldery and morpho, totally killed my finger skin.

One move wonder.

The middle section felt harder than 5b, maybe 6a?

Great line! The first 2 clips felt quite tough in the beginning but I'm happy I decided to lead it after all.

Liked it!

A little bit too much layback for me... Got pumbed but managed to finish it with the help of a no-hand-rest in the middle part.

Messed up the onsight by starting from wrong holds. Way easier than 6b+ stated in Zillertal topo. Maybe 6a?

It took a couple of tries to find a good beta for the beginning. Rest of it is easier (graded 6b in the topo).

A little bit of everything, liked it!

Perfect warm-up route. Zillertal topo book gives grade 5b, I would say the same (5b/5c).

Tough

Nice one! Power moves in the beginning, technique at the end.

A bit tricky after the rain. The route has grade 5b in Zillertal topo book, but it felt harder, maybe 6a?

Reachy anchor and a bit polished

Hard beginning

Climbed Pieniä askelia first, this felt easier.

2nd try, felt like my type of route.

What a great one!

Great project and finally made it! True classic! Double moves, double fun for a short person like me :)

Nice one!

Short people have the privilege of using the small crystals :)

The sloupery part took come guts but I nailed it anyway.

Nice one

The start is tough (the first 2 bolts), especially for your fingers!

Felt more difficult, end part was a bit reachy for a short person.

Felt quite difficult, very few bolts for leading.

Crux for a short person is after the beginning, after that not harder than 5/6a.

Similar grade as Helt Galen and Stockholm sightseeing.

Nice route, not harder than Helt Galen.

A little bit of everything