Carles Martinez

Viote pepinaco!

2nd go. Very nice to try get it onsight. Enjoyed the fight. More enjoyable on the second attempt when I knew where to go.

3rd go. Day proj. Some sections are bit polished , but it is nice. I would recommend it. Bouldery.

2nd go. People should really brush more after they climb or while they check moves.

Jammin' can be a variety of things. I can think of two main examples: Listening to music and jamming to it: bobbing your head to the beat, headbanging, dancing, etc. Similarly, when crack climbing, the art of hand jamming creates a rhythmic connection with the rock, allowing for a seamless ascent. It's like finding the perfect groove on a climbing route, where the nice flow of jamming all the way enhances the overall climbing experience.

3 attemps in total in total. The first attempt was with the quickdraws on several years ago when this was waaay out of my league. Today it was about a first go checking all moves and then it went on the second go.

2nd go. M'hancantat. Ya va tocando aprender a escalar, no?

2nd go. Super cool. You got everything here.. alpine style, sporty style, jugs, crimps, knee bars, fist jam..

very nice. flash info by both Marias

amazing despite the sika on the overhangy section.

Had to work the boulder first. The rest of the route up to the anchor is amaaaazing. Sightseeing type of climbing with some tiny puzzles here and there.

Super nice and enjoyable! Fully guided by MQB after he put up the quickdraws, bcs I forgot almost everything from the flash attempt I had back in Jan2023

2nd go. Hard, quite polished, part of the experience.

The redpoint with more attempts of this trip... I really wanted to avoid the jugs on the right side of the route. So I decided to only climb straight up on the tuffas. My rope got stuck on the tuffa-inverted-spike left of the last bolt on three redpoint attempts!! On the last day of the trip, I climbed this with the only focus on not getting the rope stuck. It was enjoyable, and it felt very easy after so many tries.

Hardest onsight yet. Very nice with nice hold all the way (maybe a bit more difficult to onsight for shorter folks) . Excellent to warm up. I had it as a cool down for the day.

First of the grade. Very nice. I enjoyed working out every single move on this route. Felt hard even after inspecting and executing the most efficient beta for me. Obviously, on the send (third) go I ended up going with a different beta at the end of the cruxy/pumpy sequence.

Third 7a flash :D Beta from Misha. Cruxy but enjoyable all the way and nice moves up there.

Beta from Austris. Cruxy and nice. It was a torture under the sun.. wait for climbing it after 1pm and ir should be way nicer.

First 7a flash. This route doesn't consume any skin, only muscles. Jugs deluxe on roof where the 4th bolt is lower than the 3rd one.

Belayer, use a helmet.

Belayer, use a helmet.

Belayer, use a helmet.

Marathon warm-up :) Calfs workout. Very cool and long.

Guidebook says 6b+ to firt anchor. Soft 6b makes more sense.

Demanding warmup.

7a/+ Very strong belayer on the other side of the rope

Muy guapa. Climbs way nicer than it looks at first from down there.

Did one way up quickdraw by quickdraw inspecting al moves and pockets and it went on the second go (first serious go).

28m, many quickdraws needed

In some old topos it appears as 7a. It seems that many years ago it had a different line at the beginning for the first couple of bolts ( a bit more to the left).

same anchor as Por placer. 6a In topo book

the upper section on the dihedral is 3stars

~12 draws

Felt easier than Lepola.

Solid 6b when you know where to go

Excellent route

super nice climb!

Amazing! would be great to see how is that kantti betta some people mentioned.

Nice warm-up!

2nd go Exciting route!

6a in Finland are usually much harder than this. Enjoyable climb!

6a in Finland are usually much harder than this. Enjoyable climb!

5 if I compare to any other 6a I've done in Finland

4 if I compare to any other 5 I've done in Finland

4 if I compare to any other 5 I've done in Finland

hard? x)

2nd go. long quickdraw for the second bolt 👌 edit 18/9/2023: looks like the second bolt has been moved to a lower placement. Now it is less risky to climb the route putting up the draws

-

finally! without using the right wall. Super wet left kantti and top (as it was with all the previous times I tried this route)

6c in the topo book. felt like hard 6c

2nd go. para bulderetas

buenísimo inicio

a la tercera va la vencida..

buena

decided to do a double knee-bar on this hannamontana for the lols during my first go, and ended up falling 🥲

'ta guai

quite wet

nice

Day project, 4th go. End of the day, epic bubbly clouds with the orangy colors of the sunset, thunders, blood, sweat, screams and two friends cheering from the ground. My first 7a+ sport climb ended up being my most epic send ever

2nd go, nice warm up

2nd go , damn, super nice route

unknown date

unknown date

unknown date

unknown date

unknown date

unknown date

unknown date

unknown date

unknown date

unknown date

unknown date

where can we get more of these holds in Finland?

👍

nice moves, better jugs. Bouldery

ta' bien + 2nd go, well bolted two stars are for the crux

pegazo

on the firs try, but I've done wildchild before. Different style, but same difficulty as Wildchild for me

'ta bien el perro este

'ta bien.

merengue

a tope con el balance

midnight climbing, empty crag. Bouldery route :D

staying on the main face of the route all time felt like a hard 6c, but super cool boulder move and the balance part at the end

6b+?

'ta bien

First try: wtf Second try: mmh, makes sense Third go it worked

muy mucho hyvä

6a boulder problem

thanks Tommi for the beta

the quality of the rock is quite bad

bouldery start, and no anchor

cool slab