Description

Ulornas Havsklippa is situated right by the sea. To access you have to swim, take a kayak or, more commonly, rappel in. There is a good ledge just above the water line and it's a superb and remote place to spend a day. Great views of the fjord Åbyfjorden.

There are some old bolts on the top to build a rap-station from, but back it up and make sure that your rope is long enough to reach the ledge. Pull the rope and you will have to climb out.

The climbing is on good solid granite following cracks, but also on edges and small holds.

History

The most obvious easy line was climbed early in the history of Bohuslän climbing, but then it would take many years for others to find their way here. Geir Arne Bore has made most of the first ascents, but there are still some routs to be done.

Routes on Ulornas Havsklippa
2 sport 7 trad
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Viktor Höjman
V. Höjman
from Sandefjord
Petter Restorp
P. Restorp
from Chamonix
Hanna Restorp
H. Restorp
from Bohuslän
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Ulornas Havsklippa

Climbing has been limited!

Volontary climbing ban from March 1st until July 15 each year due to sensitive wildlife.

Park by the harbor. The gravel road that lead in to the top ot the crag is a private road. Don't even use it to drop gear or people off. Note that none of the parking spaces are pitches for mobile homes, which means that staying overnight in a mobile home or similar is not allowed.

All the walls at Ulorna are under the regulation of Bohusläns Climbing Club's bolt policy and no further bolting is allowed.

https://access.klatterforbundet.se/ulorna/

What is a voluntary climbing stop?
Decisions on voluntary climbing stops are taken by the Bohuslän Climbing Club in consultation with relevant experts, such as ornithologists, Nordens Ark and the County Administrative Board of Västra Götaland. Climbing stops are taken to protect sensitive animal and plant life in Bohuslän during certain periods of the year. If these voluntary climbing stops are not respected, we risk formal climbing bans with legal sanctions.