Description

🌞🍂
Best season is autumn. Summer is very good, as well. The whole crag is facing north and a lot of holes can soak after long rain periods, especially in spring.

💧
There are a lot of rain proof sectors with steep overhangs like "Schlossberwände" or the cave routes at "Heinrichsgrotte". If there's no significant rain period these sectors stay dry forever. "Heinrichsgrotte" "Schlossbergzwilling" or "Finger Gottes" are exposed above the valley and dry very quick. Only the start slabs can be wet.

💪⚙️
This part of Wiesent-valley is deeply indented and offers the highest walls in Frankenjura. Furthermore rock quality is phenomenal. At "Schlossbergwände" climbing is predominantly on steep not so high overhangs what requires a lot of power. "Schlossbergzwilling" and "Heinrichsgrotte" are more vertical, crimpy and looong (for franconian habits at least).

👶
Better forget about "Heinrichsgrotte" and "Finger Gottes", acccess is long and crag's base is steep. Better go to "Schlossbergwände" and surroundings. Aware of the sectors underneath "Obere Schlossbergwand". Falling rocks or kids are possible and should be avoided.

🍽🍻🛌
Next Camping is in Moritz or Allersdorf. A lot of Accommodation is in and close to Gößweinstein, as well as shopping facilities and Restaurants/Cafés.

🏊🎸
There's a free swimming pool in Gößweinstein.

💎 Goodies

soft:
- Alf
- Fotokante
- Eppelein
- Action Perfect

medium:
- Frühstück im Treibhaus
- Danny de Vito
- DEPRESSION DELUXE
- incading Celts
- Dezentraler Energiepfad
- Erwins Projekt
- Dala
- fränkische Köstlichkeiten
- Neuer Che Guevara Weg

hard:
- Laurin
- Liebe ohne Chancen
- out of Berlin
- Master Blaster
- Donnerkuppel
- Portal
- Rockwrestling

Routes on Burggaillenreuth
132 sport 10 trad 24 Likes
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T. De Mazière
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Burggaillenreuth

Climbing has been limited!

⛔️ 🦅
On this crag climbing at "Heinrichsgrotte" is prohibited from 1. February until 15. of July because of breeding birds. Rest is open all year until there are no signs at the wall.

🚗
The crag is mainly located around north side of the hill called "Schlossberg" close to the village "Burggaillenreuth". Go to Burggaillenreuth via Gößweinstein or Ebermannstadt and leave your car at the parking at the southern end of village.

🚶‍♂️

Schlossbergwand/Schlosserei/Schlossbergzwilling/Zwergenschloss:
go down the road southwards for 30 meters and turn left into the country road. After 150 meter turn left and follow the edge of the forest. After 100 meter you enter a forest road. turn left and right again soon before you leave the forest onto the hiking trail. After further 230 meters there's a stair. Take stairs up and you end up at "obere Schlossbergwand". Go down the stairs and you'll pass the other sectors.

Finger Gottes/Heinrichsgrotte:
go down the road southwards for 30 meters and turn left into the country road. After 150 meter turn left and follow the edge of the forest. After 100 meter you enter a forest road. Turn right and follow the road for 450 meters until there's a lawn to your right. On the opposite of the lawn is a foot path to your left. Go there and take the left trail. Follow that trail for about 400 meters. Once the trail leads down very steep there's a overhanging block to your right afterwards. 10 meters further is another block. Just after that 2nd block it gets a bit confusing.
->Heinrichsgrotte: go ahead a few meters and keep left along the hillside. After 100 meters you can spot the crag to your left.
->Finger Gottes: behind that 2nd block climb up the slope to your right for just one meter and turn left. there's and unclear path leading along the hillside to the crag.