Climbs very nice. Took me 2 sessions. Kind of an elimination of the arete but it seems natural to avoid it. Was tempted for a while to give it 8A but agreed with Steinar on 7C+. Not very sure about the grade as I haven't touched rock for months and only been training indoors. And I'm not sure how my shape is atm, even though it felt good. But the route looks hard and it felt hard.
First ascent after a crucial foothold broke. I did it in August last year before the break and it changes my beta. For me an upgrade to 7C+ seems appropriate now. But maybe for shorter people it's easier!?
Steep terrain with crimps, pinches, jugs, compression, heelhooks, kneebar, toehook, endurance. The full package. Was very drained and shaky on the topout on wet holds. But very happy to get my name on this full line. Can't really descide gradewise as long climbs is my anti style 7C/+ ? The individual moves are not very hard but they just keep coming.
Looks chossy and rough but it's actually quite nice. No real clue if the grade holds. Had to dig deep to get it, but I haven't really been training for more than 2 months, so I'm not the one to downgrade
Not a classic but has some good delicate tension moves in the start. If 8A holds I'm not sure, could be easier. Repeats will tell. Also, a link-up to "Mr. Ex-Static" before the good holds left would be something to work on.
I had actually written it off on previous trips as not worth wasting anymore skin on. But I somehow managed to figure it out this time. Feels absolutely impossible until you do it and stick the move. Glad that this obvious line finally is added to Sundsvoll. I really couldn't decide for a grade. Anything between 7A+ to 7C, depending on reach, could be right.
First post-break ascent. Great feeling to get to re-climb this nice line in a harder version. I think the broken hold merits more than just a + grade from the original 7C, which was stiff in itself. Could it be 8A+ ??
Used alternative beta. Right foot out right. Grab little gaston with left and bump left up to the sloper. Get less swing that way. The starting hold tends to grease up when comming from the sit. Hoping for cooler temps.
Took a good few tries to get the first move to stick to get to the beefy shoulder move, which felt a good deal easier than last time I tried it. Got a splitter. Had a fall from wet holds at the last move, so almost gave up. But turned up the anger a bit and delicately wrestled my way to the top.
Went surprisingly easy today. Couldn't figure the first move when I tried it in the spring. It's a bit contrived starting in an almost horizontal position, but it does add some delicate moves to the higher start
Easy terrain to a diffucult left hand bump-stab from a slopey crimp to a sharp pocket, while doing a plus-plus mantle with the right and finding the right bodyposition. Low percentage move that took time, skin and blood. Difficult to grade. 7B-7C? But frustrating fun
A bit of a walk to get to this, but really nice problem. Friction dependent, so it shut me down earlier this year as I tried it in the summer heat. Cold today, but still took some effort. Could be a bit easier than 7C, so have to find someone willing to reapeat it.
Intense line! On the soft side maybe. Found the crux to be a really core intensive foot move from a poor heel hook, that spat me off again and again. Finally pulled through by the light of my torch. Felt strong and conditions were perfect! Thnx for the beta Steinar.
Hard! seemes harder than the initially suggeted 7C?? Tried it last year and it felt absolutely impossible. It still did on the first tries this time, but somehow managed to find the mojo to pull through.
A proud line! Stands about 5m tall with a rocky landing that we tried to even out with smaller rocks and plates of grass/moss. Too bad that a propper standstart is obstructed by the stone at the foot of the climb
Quite a swing you get! Felt harder than Anssin Tupla as the dyno is more akward from worse holds, and the end jug not as good. Probably comparable to Night Rider in difficulty but I'll leave it to someone else to decide.
Great conditions today. Took quite some effort and a few days to make that left heel stick. Not any specific crux move, but full tension is needed all the way to make the moves come together. Feels like 8A.
Fun funky moves. Took some time and effort from me and Steinar to figure out the start. Getting your ass off the ground is the crux. Requieres a flexi hip ro reach the starting foothold and padstacking should be somewhat acceptable. Could be 7C. More sends will tell.
Two different beta's possible with or without the crimpfeature in the middle of the route where the rail is more horizontal. FA went without it via an akward move right to the ear feature of "The Ear" which is maybe a bit harder.