Johannes Kokkila

Same anchor with another route.

Continue through the "squeeze" to the correct anchor.

Easy, but beautiful!

Climbed first the 7a that shares the beginning

Missed a hold on insight. ONE MOVING GLUE BOLT!!!

6C in topo

Single bolt anchor!

Single bolt anchor!

tokalla. ekalla lipsahti

Kiersin oikealta ja toppasin vasemmalta.

Voimallisempi, mutta mun mielestä helpompi kuin vasemmalla oleva reitti.

Napakka varsinkin helteellä

Onsight loppu. Alku ei, koska kiipesin Veripalvelun ensin.

Kaipaisi yhden pultin lisää

Around the bush from the left. Moved to the left a bit earlier for a rest, which makes me question whether send was clean or not. There was chalk and no other route though. The direct line had no chalk.

L2, L4, L5, L6

Hups... Accidental toprope send

On guide book it is 7a. I think I agree with that.

Grade opinion per guide book. I think it was definitely harder than some of the 6c+ around, but easier than the other 7a of the sector.

short crux

6a in guide book. Quite beta dependent

6c in guide book. It is fully bolted.

Koko reitti ilman kumpaakaan aretea

1 session. Send on 5th go. At least 2 of the bolts have loose thingy that you clip to even though the bolts were tight (tried to tighten). I'm not pro, but to me that doesn't sound ideal.

My first 7C in two sessions. Maybe soft.

Quite technical and I'd say hard for the grade

Reachy crux

I first got lost on wrong route and had to restart. I find it difficult especially on a warm sunny day.

No bird nest visible this year (2024)

Yliksessä beta kahdella sessiolla. Ekalla liidiyrkällä sendi.

Saittiyrkkä, ylistyöstö, sendi

Lapsus saitilla

Viereinen linja vei saitin

Tokalla.

Hard start. Maybe I climbed part of it a tad too right. Would have been nicer on the left, but didn’t notice the holds until coming down. Topo 2023: 7a

6c+ or 7a depending on the source

Surprise send. First half flash, second half onsite. Last third was prepared to fall any second due to pump. Possibly a bit easier for a taller person.

Slab, vertical, slightly overhang, jugs, crimps, slopers, tufa... Something for everyone... Lots of possibilities for different approaches

6b+ according to topo

6B+ in the 2024 guide book

The ones to the left are better. The ending isn't that great.

1st lead try after checking the beta in top rope. Especially the first half is really nicely flowing.

tokalla meni

tokalla meni

Joku voisi kyllä kommentoida, että "väärin kiivetty", kun otteita löytyi vähän piirretyn linjan molemmin puolin ja erityisesti lopussa viereinen reitti tuli varsin lähelle. Alas tullessa kokeilin nuo kohdat myös tiukasti linjalta ja olisi se tehtävissä, mutta saittina ei olisi mennyt.

sandbag

Tokalla. En muista päivää tai kuukautta

tokalla. Saitti hyytyi kohtaan johon kaipaa pitkän jatkon.

Ellen sitten joskus muinoin ole jo kiivennyt 🤷‍♂️

Ellen sitten joskus muinoin ole jo kiivennyt 🤷‍♂️

Ensimmäinen liidiyrkkä. Tykkäsin. Tuleekohan nimi 2 ja 3 pultin välistä... Syliin putoaisi.

First lead try

Slipped from start holds... Without that would have been insight

Topped to the right over a bulge. Not sure if that was the correct anchor or if should have used the left one... Topo and 27crags show differently.

Possibly retro from 2008

Used red cam for extra protection

Oikean kautta ilman halkeamaa eli olikos se nyt 6c variantti.

Olisi on-site jos ei ois kiivennyt toista variaatiota ensin

Köysi kiilaantuu helposti halkeamaan. Sinne oli tungettu puutappeja estämään kiilautumista, mutta meidän tapauksessa kiilautuminen tapahtui tapin ja kallion väliin. Tikut on nyt eri asennossa ja todennäköisesti estää kiilautumisen paremmin. En vain tiedä kauanko se pysyy.

Edit 16.4.2023 Lead