Jody Wren

Lots of nice features

Has just enough holds to make it fun. Not sure on the grade.

Surprisingly very hard sit start.

Cleaned. I avoided the corner crack hold as it is nearly always wet. Makes it a better route also.

Sharp flake on top right

Surprisingly hard route

Enjoyed this.

Really enjoyed this one.

Tad harder. Kept the feet on the wall.

Two mats might be good.

Really enjoyed this one.

Start sitting

I need to clean it more

Tricky top

Nice

2nd go

Avoid corner crack to right

2nd go

2nd go

Top class, both powerful and technical. So happy to have done this before I leave Finland. The climbing starts with a bang after 2 metres so it is worth pre-clipping the first bolt (a screwgate on the rope is always a good idea). Thanks to Kimpi for pointing me to the line and to Toby, Eärendel, and Jonas for working the route with me.

Using lentoterroristi's sloper

Top problem

Great problem, but felt desperate.

Technical climbing on good rock. Shame the block behind is so close.

2nd go. Interesting holds and moves on great rock.

Short, but nice moves and rock quality.

Nice long moves. Nearly slipped off the top on the moss.

Good climb. Avoided most of the sharp holds.

Nice

Delicate climbing to tricky top-out

The landing could be better.

Fun short problem.

2nd go.

Power problem.

All the way to the top. Nice, powerful line. Grade a guess.

Great short problem on quality rock.

2nd go.

Nice problem. The top out is exciting.

Thumb-cling and mantel. 6C/6B+

Very nice. Nearly flashed but really struggled with the last move to the jug. One aggressive attempted ended with me bouncing off my mats onto the boulders behind.

3rd go. Nice problem, but not 7A and not especially morpho.

3rd go.

Quickdraws already in.

First bolt pre-clipped :). 3rd go. Felt like 6b+/6c to me.

Dynamic beta.

Top end of the grade.

2nd go. A bit wet.

Didn't find it easy. Pretty much the same beta as the video.

Long day. Amazing views.

Too wet on the previous day

A fantastic problem in a beautiful setting

2nd go

2nd go.

ss. Good problem. Did in 26 degrees surrounded by flies.

2nd go

2nd go

First try on the day.

2nd go

Great problem.

Anti-morpho

Lowest start

Retro flash.

Very nice. Twice.

First done years ago.

First try on the day. Perfect friction.

Not sure about the starting holds

Unusual, techincal moves.

A great, technical 'old-school' problem.

Exposed for the grade

Nice smooth rock. Morpho.

Nice moves

Avoided the block left.

Avoided far right undercling/hold (i.e. left of the crack) at the start as it made the route 6Bish. Very height dependent.

Both from standing and sitting. Pulled a hold off from the start but the new hold created is pretty much the same and probably stronger.

2nd go

Didn't find it soft, but I am crap at this sort of problem.

High route with unusual top out holds.

2nd go.

Tough. Did pretty much static, maybe jumping is easier.

2nd go. A fair bit easier than is right neighbour

Finally! Technical, sustained, nervy, and fun to climb. Needs fresh rubber and fingers. Grade a guess.

3rd try. Nice little problem

10 years between the toprope and lead.

Top roped years ago, same level as Jatka

Retro flash

A humid day, but felt tough for 6b.

Bolted.

2nd go. Pretty straight forward once I found the holds (avoided the crack right).

Protection was adequate. Low in the grade.

Flowing traverse to a two arm pull up.

Used a perfect right foot toe-hook to kill the swing at the start. Probably 6c/+ with this.

A very nice, distinct line, although probably morpho.

Static variation also.

Nice, 6b

Getting of the ground was the crux for me.

Retro flash, top-roped 5 years ago. Struggled on the rounded top-out. Lovely line.

2nd go

Broken starting foothold.

A fun way to the 'summit'.

Nice if you like small sharp holds.

Nice warm up

2nd go

3rd go. One for the taller boulderer.

2nd go.

Marginal top moves

Protection was safe.

Sweaty. Nice slab

Both hands on diagonal jug

Height dependent

2nd go

Fun, 3rd go. Felt very easy for 6c+

Good technical, gritstone-esque climbing on just enough gear.

uses side-pull behind tree

Sit start, climb between the two cracks.

Great line

Strong line

2nd go.

Worst FA, ashamed.

Started a little to the left. Nice line, shame it gets so mossy.

2nd go

Nice route, with a crumbly hold.

Small cams & nuts...

Cleaned then climbed.

On sight FA, pre-cleaning.

Fun

Lovely, done as a sit start