Harald Swen

Clipping the bolts is harder than the climbing. There’s some loose rock after the second bolt and the/a jug after the hard part might break soon. Reinforcement might be a good option. I removed a 10kg loose block next to a rotten stump higher up in the route but couldn’t clean all the dirt away.

Very cool continuation of Sofia. Short but with good rock and moves. Looks like it’s wet quite often. Single bolt anchor.

Surprisingly good and easy route. Safe as well.

Nice route.

Not the best route on this wall. Scarce pro, discontinous climbing, a ledge, a tree and lichen on the upper wall. Would be 5/5+ on toprope (depending on the line taken on the headwall), defo not 7-. Placed 2 sup-optimal ballnuts on the lower slab and 2 halfnuts and a ballnut on the upper wall. Good gear on/around the tree.

Nice route in a very pretty setting. Bouldery crux.

Very good route!

Very nice route on very good rock. Long as well. Must do for the grade in the area.

Good route on good rock.

Very nice route

Brilliant and very esthetic route on truly perfect rock. So much fun tiptoeing whilst holding onto slopers. 5 stars if it were longer. Some of the best and most memorable routes in Bohuslän are the bolted ones - can’t help it…

Tricky moves low down.

Weird sitstart, twice a horrible hold for the right hand, half a traverse, wet soil. So much not to like - yet I liked it. Fun moves. It finally clicked when the fingertips of my right hand stopped sweating. More wind please.

Tricky feet, reachy. Cool line.

Stand and sit. Middel part is nice, sit and finish are not.

Not the best line, not the best rock. Would benefit from a bolt or two. Or some cleaning. Wandering line as well. I cannot fathom the straight up line as drawn on the topo since at 12m height you are forced left and then up again. Upper traverse right is a bit unlogical since straight up is possible as well. Most serious route I’ve climbed on Högberget. Tricky to protect first half during the onsight. It’s there, but not as good as you’d like. Totem cams are adviced (like always :-). Take care with the loose flake/outer layer of rock around 8/9 m high. 6b on a toprope, E3 5c on lead?

Nice route, despite the humid rock at the finish today. Good warm-up. Takes plenty pro.

Not the best route of the crag, but oké-ish. Cruxy middle part with adequate pro. Easy finish.

Lovely route. The hardest moves are straight of the ‘deck’ at the start of the dihedral. Big holds and plenty pro afterwards.

Brilliant route! Shame routes like this are not climbed more often. They become so dirty they are impossible to onsight. Fingery bottom and techy on the feet upper. Must return!

Very nice route, especially the crux (boltet) upper part

Surprisingly hard start!

Short but quality. Offset nut saves the day. Do not mistake the bolt for a belay and stop, but continue.

Date unsure. Nice!

Date unsure. A lot nicer climbing (and very well protectable) than it appears at first sight.

Very good twin crack system in the corner. Cleaner than it looks.

Very dirty route today. One scary move low down. Easy afterwards. Felt like 6b-ish, but that might have been cause of the dirt and groundfall potential.

Rare pas, maar als je t eenmaal doorhebt valt ie mee. Heel stoffig/vies.

Yek. Glad, stoffig en een rare crux.

Verrassend mooi. 6c+?

Vandaag bovenin schoongepoetst, dus de komende tijd weer te klimmen.

Some very nice climbing. A little bit of overhanging sloper/crack-climbing combined with fridge-hugging. Almost gym-like. Quite unusual. Also easy for the grade. 7a+/b? The second half is a little bit spicy with longer distances between the bolts.

Not that good.

Impressive!

very good route. the piton is shitty.

Cool! 6c+?

Very nice route. Power-endurence. Several shouldery moves, all for the right shoulder. Exactly what I like! Felt more like 7b+ than 7b to me. Tape on the left pinky makes life easier (less painfull...).

Cruxy

Quite nice

Cruxy both in the start and finish. I lack the fingerstrength for the crimps on the upper crux. That’s just fine cause the LH beta/method with the sloper is way cooler!

Wandering route and not really a logical line (anymore?). Mostly bolted but with some very easy climbing on pro in the middle part.

Nice easy route with plenty protection and a handy tree to belay/rappel at the top. The start is the hardest bit.

Escapable route unfortunately. Good upper part. Harder than other routes with comparable (elevated) grades on this wall.

Hanshelleren miniature :-).

One route, two different styles. Starts slightly akward with a tricky to clip 2nd bolt, followed by easy jugs in the overhang. After a rest an almost vertical part followes with more distance between the bolts. Not that bad, but the protruding rock/edge below is in the back of the mind whilst climbing. Could be made into a better experience by moving the second bolt and rearranging the position of the bolts in the upper part. At the upper crux climbing up to the bolt and clipping feels scary. It is tempting (and possible) to escape to the right. By changing the position of the bolts the climbing/clipping will feel more natural/relaxed.

Very nice balancy arete-climbing. Climbs really fun from the fourth bolt on straight on the arete. The belay could have been in a better spot (2.5m higher and slightly to the left). Right now its fine for lowering, but the best climbing leads left and upwards of the belay.

Long and varied route. Has cleaned up well since it's opening. 17 draws, exemplary belay with 2 lowering off biners.

Very very nice and long route with a tricky crux. Some small cams are needed before the first bolt (a 0,5 cam above the protruding rock is bomber). Can be topped out or stop at the last bolt. Solid 7a imo.

Not the best line/experience. Dare I say the route would be better of with a bolt or two?

Very cruxy route. Not as good as its neighbours. Loose rock in the crux section. Escapable unfortunately. The good hold after the roof/‘stretch’ has departed since. Did the direct version. 7b felt okay.

Very cool route. Beautiful movement from start to finish. 3rd and 4th (and 5th when short) bolt are hard to clip a draw in.

Easy route on good rock. A bit short.

Very onsightable fun route with the sting in the tail where you’d expect it to be.

Very good!

Cool route with just one section (lower slab) that is tricky to protect. The rest is well protected. Just one star - the route unfortunately is escapable to the right. This route is a lot harder than Snake Dancer. And nicer as well.

A good route. The rock is a bit crumbly though, but with more traffic that should improve. Surprisingly hard move at the start, easy traverse, good rest, hard-on-the-feet crux, easy layback crack, good rest and slightly mental slab. Obs: the crux felt like proper 7+ (might have been to warm), and the crack for the gear after the slab deserves a good brushing. And a direct finish is possible at around french 6a/6b. A bit runout and spicy though.

Not as good as Salsa because the rock tends to be a bit slimy after rain.

A good route with the meat of the climbing right in the beginning. Starting on the first crack to the left is not a variation IMO, bit more like a separate route deserving a separate name. The crack is not as clean as you’d like though. Traverse right at the ‘cristal ledges’ and finish in Salsa.

Crux at the start. Easy on big holds afterwards. Not the best of the routes at Binghult, but as the rock was dirty and humid today it’s probably going to be a nicer experience on days with better conditions.

Fun start

Really good route! Fun moves where it is steep. Start athe tree and head straight up.

nice route. strangely more difficult than it looks.

Oke-ish but not that good and a bit tricky to protect at the crux after the horizontal ledge.

Date unsure.

Date unsure.

Date unsure.

Date unsure.

Very good and fun to climb on huge holds, except for one bit just above the middle. A bit loose sometimes.

Easy crimpy route on good rock, but you have to find the right holds and sequence. I’ve seen a lot of people fail to do so.

Interesting route. Well protected, even in the start. Don't miss out on this one if it's dry.

Nice route despite the not so good looking start.

Holy shit - not fit :-(

Erg vies vandaag en dan is het inhangen van de 4e haak tamelijk link. 't is dat ik ruim over had. Had een stuk aangenamer geweest indien H3 en H4 wat lager hadden gezeten. En dan een extra H5.

De moeilijkheidsgraad wordt voor een belangrijk deel bepaald door modder en stof. 6a+ schoon, 6c vies. Yek!

Voelt lastig aan voor 5c. Een plusje extra klopt beter denk ik. Twee lastige pasjes.

Prima route.

Niet morpho, wel blok. Kort of lang maakt hier echt niet uit. Kan zowel links van de haken of rechts van de haken geklommen worden. Na de boulder is het een makkie.

Harde start. Beetje warm en vreselijke zweethanden, dus lastig de graad te benoemen: 6c/+. Best aardige route! Had 'm eigenlijk een tijdje terug onsight, maar moest met de natte grepen en modder die er op lag bij de laatste pas blokken. De instappas is voor mij de crux. Leuke route.

Leuke route met plateaus om op te rusten afgewisseld met steilere passages. 5a?

Don't be put off by the dirty, broken and downright shitty start. Afterwards the climbing improves. The roof is the crux and, though improbable, really goes at 7a. Two very cool sequences in a row

After a broken intro both the rock and climbing improve. The crux is short and distinct. Not slipping of the slippery holds in relatively warm weather was my personal crux. 7a+ is probably the right grade, even though after a first try I thought it was a proper 7b.

Heel erg overgewaardeerd. Zelfs zonder de spleet maximaal 5c. Een al al greep en tree. Apropos spleet: ik vermoed dat het pure feit dat hier een spleet zit schrik aanjaagt, met een te hoge moeilijkheidswaardering als gevolg. Spleetklimmen is een elementaire vorm van klimmen. Als je het niet kan of er angst voor hebt moet je niet de route opwaarderen, maar aan je eigen kunnen werken. Met Ettringen is er op niet al te grote afstand een perfecte locatie im dit te doen. Genoeg over de waardering: de route is mooi en had 3 maal zo lang mogen zijn.

Short lived. No clue about the grade, since it was hot and slippery. 6b+ to 6c+.

Quite nice route. The holds even have some friction, which is rare in Maizeret. Would not call it a detour per se at the roof. It's just left of the bolt and straight back right sequence with 3 smaller crimps. Good fun. A larger detour left towards the 7b is also possible, but thats skipping the hard climbing on this route.

Leuker en iets lastiger dan de linkervariant. Echter ook geen kingline...

Mooi einde in de geul. De rest is zozo.

Supernice route of almost 35m. Hard finish though. Needs better cleaning/gluing. Still a lot of choss on and around the route. The climbing and setting are amazing!

Nice climb. Being tall helps :-)

Quite tricky and hard for 6c. Cost me more trouble than the 7b extension.

A hard 6c, a tricky overhanging corner, a chossy chimney, a ledge, a corner and an surprisingly easy roof. Deserves more traffic to clean up. Used to be 7c when first published, but easy 7b in reality.

easy jug climb. Fun!

Very, very cool slabclimbing on small edges. But its not pure slab, it's about finding the right way up on opposing holds and edges. The finale up the pillar (not to be underestimated) is great as well, and as a bonus clipping the anchor is easy.

Big moves on good holds. Fun.

Bit of a head game. Never hard, but always tricky. UK-style trad. Breng plenty of small gear, comfy shoes and a patient belayer. Not one to easily forget :-), nor this day at the crag :-) :-)

looks easy, climbs not that easy though!

Nice crack/mantle. Cool line. Not to hard, but a bit mental to mantle. Took some tries to finally commit today. Screwed up the onsight a couple of years ago in the sun.

Brilliant and very well protected route on the left hand arete. Bomber gear all the way. Tricky footmoves lead to an awkward slap for the sloper. Lovely moves lead to the edge of the steep face.

Really good powerful climbing with an amazing traverse and a tricky end. Not my style as a slab-orientated weakling, but I loved it. Almost screwed up the tricky last move. 2nd day on.

Desperate route. Not 6c. That final move - boy o boy! I’d accept 7a+ as well…

Cool!

Very nice!

Tricky little climb

So cool. Amongst the best of the best.

Nice climbing, it’s all in the feet.

Can’t remember the details.

Beauty!

Cool!

Cool!

Meh.

Climbed the route in the wet and covered in muck. Still quite a nice route. Can't really comment on the grade since the conditions were so shitty.

Climbed the route in the wet and covered in muck. It was horribly slippery. Cant possible say something positive about it.

Climbed the route in the wet and covered in muck. Felt horrible. Cant possible say something positive about it.

Not fit enough for the onsight.

Would be a lot nicer if the bolts were in different locations. ATM the clipping positions distract from the climbing e.g.: it's a little scary to lead. This leads to the route not being climbed which leads to it being dirty, and so forth. Was quite the battle to onsight slowly creeping up whilst brushing the holds…

Beautiful route, but it felt really difficult for 7a (even for 7a+). More so than the other 7a’s on the wall.

Brilliant route. Felt more like 7b than 7a.

Beauty!

Technical moves on the blunt arete.

Steep start, nive slab with crack.

The start = the crux. Very good friction for the feet. Start from the ground, not from the 50cm high pile of rocks that is in place now (‘24/‘25).

Tricky move low down. Very good friction for the feet.

Very cool route. Good moves all the way. Climbs better than it looks.

Meh.

Easy start when tall, with the crux in the traverse at the top (in the sun anyway).

Easy climbing on big holds/good jams. Very silly not to onsight.

Easer than it looks.

Fun easy route on perfect rock.

Nice!

Very good route.

Hard and tricky.

Quite ok.

Very nice. Excellent friction.

Cool moves.

Not to bad

Mixed route. Did the bouldery start without the tree which for sure ups the grade to solid 7a+. Having to brush all holds whilst climbing was hard :-) What followed wasn't trivial at all though since it was pretty humid today and the upper crack was very dirty and gritty. Bloody desperate to lead. Better to rap down and give it a clean before climbing the route. Hardest fight in Bohuslän by far.

Very cool climbing. Must do route. The upper boulder is a bit meh cause it is possible to have a ‘ground’fall. Not that it is bolted wrong, it’s the topography (boulder+ledge).

Fint route! Looks improbable at the grade and hard to protect but it’s not problematic at all.

Very good route. Can be started direct of from the left (easier to protect).

Perfect hands from bottom till top with plenty footholds as a bonus. Rest your way up. Echt max. een 5-je vergeleken met spleetroutes elders. Jammen is een basale klimtechniek. Het is suf om een hoge moeilijkheidswaardering aan de route toe te kennen omdat klimmers hier hun klimtechniek niet op orde hebben. Zo werkt het niet.

Not the best route, a bit escapable. Well bolted. Take care with the loose flake in the easy starting route (to the right of the 4/5th bolt)

Careful with the large flake to the right of bolt 4 and 5. It will come off easily. Someone should head up with a crowbar.

Very good route. Beware of the huge loose blocks between bolt 4 and 5 after the intermediate belay. They should be removed or secured. Contrary to what is written in the description the route does not finish at what most would see as the belay of the 7a/+ version of Les Globules but at the belay of La Nunez (which might also be considered the belay of the nobody-ever-does-it 7b extension of Globules).

Verrassend leuk. Ietwat spannend behaakt, maar alle H op juiste plek. Rond H2 en H3 crispy rots. Rest is prima. Duidelijke crux. Tweemaal erg mooie pied-a-main passage voor/na de crux. Circa 7a+/b. Doen, want nu schoon gepoetst. Nu alleen Dalle de Jupiller nog 😬. Was dit de eerste beklimming?

Must do route. De klassieke 5+ waardering slaat nergens op. Dit is zeker een 6a+. Misschien zelf 6b. Om de stoere praat voor te zijn: dit zou ook in een klassieke route in de Dolomieten geen 5+ zijn. Been there, done that. Niks 5+. Basta.

Nice route. Felt hard, misser the easiest beta.

Nice route. Not to hard and well protected.

climbs nicer than it looks.

Really good climb. Not much harder than the route to right. More cruxy. Sweaty conditions made the holds feel slippery on the crux.

Lovely route with quite difficult climbing for the grade. Brilliant moves going around the edge and then left towards the dihedral. Must do route! Unfortunately the start is a bit meh.

8-? Never ever. Would get around 6b in Urner granit or on a Mont Blanc slab when climbed straight up to and over the bolt. M. seconded easily but had a hard time on most grade 6 routes this week… A bit strange to place only 1 bolt in this very spot? Not knowing the true difficulty of the slab I felt genuinely buggered when it turned out to be way easier. With 2 bolts the climb could be an enjoyable 6b+.

Very nice route!

Impressive route with a pumpy intro to a short crux (feet!), and a glorious ending. Must do route.

Cool. Took some time figuring out that starting move.

Fun route. Very well protected with Totems.

Must do route with a tricky thin hands crux and a bit scary but well protected traverse. Tried when too hot in ‘17. Easy first go today.

Quite difficult (thin) at the start. 6c-ish. Went slightly left at the finish where an offset cam was very helpful.

Cool! Still a very pumpy route, despite having climbed it about 10 times. Hard for 6b+ -> 6c?

Bloody tricky!

Cool line in a stunning setting. Must do. Pretty cruxy route with all the difficulty concentrated around the final move that leads to the thank-god jug. Heelhook beta makes it possible to hold the crux LH sloper with just one thump. Brilliant!

All about the first 4 meters. The wet crack afterwards made it tricky.

Scary to think about leading the route. Not easy at all. Toprope onsight.

1st and 2nd bolt a bit to high. Fun climbing though. The part after the last bolt can be climbed directly on the arete (a bit scary), or with a detour to the left (good placements for a blue and red ballnut, or 2 x blue) which is a lot less scary. Less fun as well ;-)

Tricky start that can be protected tough not easily. Suprisingly difficult stemming and laybacking afterwards. Not to be underestimated :-). 6c hard.

bit high 1st bolt. easy and well protected dihedral.

One of the two classics of the face

One of the two classics of the face

Quite oke

A Technical mindfuck that is very rare to find. Very very cool.

one move wonder. Crouch start on corner since a sit is not possible @6B (or very very hard).

Fun but thugish route. Big holds, no move too hard. Felt like 6b without any convention (like in the linked vids), 6c finishing straight up with one foot on the sidewall (will post a vid) and 7a/7a+ish when not using the entire right block/wall. Lacked the campus/lock-off power to do it that way.

Nipplegrating top-out... wear a T-shirt :-). Fun. Slightly harder from the sit.

Fun, despite the short heigth and seamingly contrived line. Avoiding the tree was easier than it appeared.

Fun lowball. Easy and static with the right bèta(and length).

Very elegant looking line with good mix of jugs, sloping holds and a crimp. Bit scary committing to the final move left with the wall behind. Don't pop of the crimp... Luckily the finish is easy. Good and fyn one!

Cool problem - both looks and climbing wise. I dislike sitstarts but this one has a cool move. Dirty and humid topout was scary and hard.

A bolt has been added. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt - a (n almost) groundfall is still possible.

Bit humid and dirty today. Bouldery start which eases off after the first 2 bolts. Fun hold inbetween 2nd and 3rd bolt. Easy and fun finish on mostly solid handjams. Mayby 7a+ when clean and dry? A lot easier than Donkey Kong for me.

A bit loose

Nice route. Easier for me than Jetbränneren (7a versus 7a+).

Good route!

A bit loose low down. Better afterwards. Not that special climbingwise but has a bigger feel to it than a single-pitch climb.

Techy moves. Harder than expected / to warm today.

Nice route, but very easy for the grade which was a bit disappointing as I constantly expected 7b-climbing to appear. Alas. Felt like 6c+/7a but then again this I my preferred style of climbing.

Nice and easy

Followed Niek.

Tricky little route on perfect rock.

Date unsure.

Date unsure.

Date unsure.

Beauty!

Very impressive climbing right next to the chimney. A bit loose maybe, and with hard/spacey to clip bolts in the starting dihedral, but manageable for a well rounded climber. Retroflash?

Deserves a star when going for the highest sloper.

Nice short route on clean rock.

Date unknown. 2019?

Date unknown. 2019?

Date unknown. 2019?

Fun roof crack with crux where you’d expect it. With cunning use of a basic novice climbing move everybody seems to forget as they rise through the grades, overcoming the roof is manageable. And its not the right foot out right. :-)

Removed some loose flakes from the route at the start. 7a-ish.

Quite oké rock and route. Nothing to special. Felt difficult, not sure why.

Good easy route

The line atop of the first pitch of Spartacus? Very good climbing. Unfortunately fell off the last hard move because of the sweaty weather. That sucked, but got to climb it twice :-). Stunning positions.

Difficult for the grade.

Not sure about style: onsight or redpoint?

Impressive route on very good rock.

5c R. Take away the lack of pro and the perceived physical difficulty drops significantly.

Should have waited for cooler weather. Good route for an onsigth.

very cool route

superb! Not easy at all. But a nice challenge.

Hard to read crux. But it's a really fun move! Good route. Quite hard even for 7a.

Date unsure. Bring long enough slings.

One move wonder

Hard and tricky start

nice and long

Date unsure.

Very nice problem! Tried for several days, but slipped out of the 'fingerlock’/did not trust it. Lower temps and humidity made it feel solid. Cool one!

A lot harder than both seperate problems (6A and 6B+). The connexion adds a lot. Good one!

Started with both hands left (small hold and a sloper) and eliminated the right hand hold. Works with lying start (heelhook left, right leg far down).

New addition? Couldn't do Jihad, so went for this line which suited me more. Gradewise about the same as Jihad. Bit of a finger-wrecker though. 7A+ seems fair.

Powerful, gymstyle.

Very good! Fun topout - not easy when tired! If the block had been higher and more dramatic this would be a king line (for its grade). Start with 2 hands at the leftmost hold in the crack and left foot with heelhook. Good holds, bad feet all the way. Each footmove required both my feet off, 7 times in a row. Not usual at this grade!

standing start.

Nice and interesting topout on the left. Quality rock and moves.

sitstart on undercling beneath the white line. topout on slabby wall behind crack to jug.

cool moves!

One move wonder made easy by a kneebar. Nice move though.

burly climbing