Harald Swen

Clipping the bolts is harder than the climbing. There’s some loose rock after the second bolt and the/a jug after the hard part might break soon. Reinforcement might be a good option. I removed a 10kg loose block next to a rotten stump higher up in the route but couldn’t clean all the dirt away.

Very cool continuation of Sofia. Short but with good rock and moves. Looks like it’s wet quite often. Single bolt anchor.

Nice route.

Nice route in a very pretty setting. Bouldery crux.

Very good route!

Very nice route on very good rock. Long as well. Must do for the grade in the area.

Good route on good rock.

Very nice route

Brilliant and very esthetic route on truly perfect rock. So much fun tiptoeing whilst holding onto slopers. 5 stars if it were longer. Some of the best and most memorable routes in Bohuslän are the bolted ones - can’t help it…

Rare pas, maar als je t eenmaal doorhebt valt ie mee. Heel stoffig/vies.

Yek. Glad, stoffig en een rare crux.

Verrassend mooi. 6c+?

Vandaag bovenin schoongepoetst, dus de komende tijd weer te klimmen.

Some very nice climbing. A little bit of overhanging sloper/crack-climbing combined with fridge-hugging. Almost gym-like. Quite unusual. Also easy for the grade. 7a+/b? The second half is a little bit spicy with longer distances between the bolts.

Cool! 6c+?

Very nice route. Power-endurence. Several shouldery moves, all for the right shoulder. Exactly what I like! Felt more like 7b+ than 7b to me. Tape on the left pinky makes life easier (less painfull...).

Cruxy

Quite nice

Cruxy both in the start and finish. I lack the fingerstrength for the crimps on the upper crux. That’s just fine cause the LH beta/method with the sloper is way cooler!

Escapable route unfortunately. Good upper part. Harder than other routes with comparable (elevated) grades on this wall.

Hanshelleren miniature :-).

One route, two different styles. Starts slightly akward with a tricky to clip 2nd bolt, followed by easy jugs in the overhang. After a rest an almost vertical part followes with more distance between the bolts. Not that bad, but the protruding rock/edge below is in the back of the mind whilst climbing. Could be made into a better experience by moving the second bolt and rearranging the position of the bolts in the upper part. At the upper crux climbing up to the bolt and clipping feels scary. It is tempting (and possible) to escape to the right. By changing the position of the bolts the climbing/clipping will feel more natural/relaxed.

Very nice balancy arete-climbing. Climbs really fun from the fourth bolt on straight on the arete. The belay could have been in a better spot (2.5m higher and slightly to the left). Right now its fine for lowering, but the best climbing leads left and upwards of the belay.

Long and varied route. Has cleaned up well since it's opening. 17 draws, exemplary belay with 2 lowering off biners.

Very cruxy route. Not as good as its neighbours. Loose rock in the crux section. Escapable unfortunately. The good hold after the roof/‘stretch’ has departed since. Did the direct version. 7b felt okay.

Very cool route. Beautiful movement from start to finish. 3rd and 4th (and 5th when short) bolt are hard to clip a draw in.

Easy route on good rock. A bit short.

Very onsightable fun route with the sting in the tail where you’d expect it to be.

Very good!

Very good and fun to climb on huge holds, except for one bit just above the middle. A bit loose sometimes.

Easy crimpy route on good rock, but you have to find the right holds and sequence. I’ve seen a lot of people fail to do so.

Holy shit - not fit :-(

Erg vies vandaag en dan is het inhangen van de 4e haak tamelijk link. 't is dat ik ruim over had. Had een stuk aangenamer geweest indien H3 en H4 wat lager hadden gezeten. En dan een extra H5.

De moeilijkheidsgraad wordt voor een belangrijk deel bepaald door modder en stof. 6a+ schoon, 6c vies. Yek!

Voelt lastig aan voor 5c. Een plusje extra klopt beter denk ik. Twee lastige pasjes.

Prima route.

Niet morpho, wel blok. Kort of lang maakt hier echt niet uit. Kan zowel links van de haken of rechts van de haken geklommen worden. Na de boulder is het een makkie.

Harde start. Beetje warm en vreselijke zweethanden, dus lastig de graad te benoemen: 6c/+. Best aardige route! Had 'm eigenlijk een tijdje terug onsight, maar moest met de natte grepen en modder die er op lag bij de laatste pas blokken. De instappas is voor mij de crux. Leuke route.

Leuke route met plateaus om op te rusten afgewisseld met steilere passages. 5a?

Don't be put off by the dirty, broken and downright shitty start. Afterwards the climbing improves. The roof is the crux and, though improbable, really goes at 7a. Two very cool sequences in a row

After a broken intro both the rock and climbing improve. The crux is short and distinct. Not slipping of the slippery holds in relatively warm weather was my personal crux. 7a+ is probably the right grade, even though after a first try I thought it was a proper 7b.

Heel erg overgewaardeerd. Zelfs zonder de spleet maximaal 5c. Een al al greep en tree. Apropos spleet: ik vermoed dat het pure feit dat hier een spleet zit schrik aanjaagt, met een te hoge moeilijkheidswaardering als gevolg. Spleetklimmen is een elementaire vorm van klimmen. Als je het niet kan of er angst voor hebt moet je niet de route opwaarderen, maar aan je eigen kunnen werken. Met Ettringen is er op niet al te grote afstand een perfecte locatie im dit te doen. Genoeg over de waardering: de route is mooi en had 3 maal zo lang mogen zijn.

Short lived. No clue about the grade, since it was hot and slippery. 6b+ to 6c+.

Quite nice route. The holds even have some friction, which is rare in Maizeret. Would not call it a detour per se at the roof. It's just left of the bolt and straight back right sequence with 3 smaller crimps. Good fun. A larger detour left towards the 7b is also possible, but thats skipping the hard climbing on this route.

Leuker en iets lastiger dan de linkervariant. Echter ook geen kingline...

Mooi einde in de geul. De rest is zozo.

Supernice route of almost 35m. Hard finish though. Needs better cleaning/gluing. Still a lot of choss on and around the route. The climbing and setting are amazing!

Nice climb. Being tall helps :-)

Quite tricky and hard for 6c. Cost me more trouble than the 7b extension.

A hard 6c, a tricky overhanging corner, a chossy chimney, a ledge, a corner and an surprisingly easy roof. Deserves more traffic to clean up. Used to be 7c when first published, but easy 7b in reality.

easy jug climb. Fun!

Very, very cool slabclimbing on small edges. But its not pure slab, it's about finding the right way up on opposing holds and edges. The finale up the pillar (not to be underestimated) is great as well, and as a bonus clipping the anchor is easy.

Really good powerful climbing with an amazing traverse and a tricky end. Not my style as a slab-orientated weakling, but I loved it. Almost screwed up the tricky last move. 2nd day on.

Climbed the route in the wet and covered in muck. Still quite a nice route. Can't really comment on the grade since the conditions were so shitty.

Climbed the route in the wet and covered in muck. It was horribly slippery. Cant possible say something positive about it.

Climbed the route in the wet and covered in muck. Felt horrible. Cant possible say something positive about it.

Would be a lot nicer if the bolts were in different locations. ATM the clipping positions distract from the climbing e.g.: it's a little scary to lead. This leads to the route not being climbed which leads to it being dirty, and so forth. Was quite the battle to onsight slowly creeping up whilst brushing the holds…

Perfect hands from bottom till top with plenty footholds as a bonus. Rest your way up. Echt max. een 5-je vergeleken met spleetroutes elders. Jammen is een basale klimtechniek. Het is suf om een hoge moeilijkheidswaardering aan de route toe te kennen omdat klimmers hier hun klimtechniek niet op orde hebben. Zo werkt het niet.

Not the best route, a bit escapable. Well bolted. Take care with the loose flake in the easy starting route (to the right of the 4/5th bolt)

Careful with the large flake to the right of bolt 4 and 5. It will come off easily. Someone should head up with a crowbar.

Very good route. Beware of the huge loose blocks between bolt 4 and 5 after the intermediate belay. They should be removed or secured. Contrary to what is written in the description the route does not finish at what most would see as the belay of the 7a/+ version of Les Globules but at the belay of La Nunez (which might also be considered the belay of the nobody-ever-does-it 7b extension of Globules).

Verrassend leuk. Ietwat spannend behaakt, maar alle H op juiste plek. Rond H2 en H3 crispy rots. Rest is prima. Duidelijke crux. Tweemaal erg mooie pied-a-main passage voor/na de crux. Circa 7a+/b. Doen, want nu schoon gepoetst. Nu alleen Dalle de Jupiller nog 😬. Was dit de eerste beklimming?

Must do route. De klassieke 5+ waardering slaat nergens op. Dit is zeker een 6a+. Misschien zelf 6b. Om de stoere praat voor te zijn: dit zou ook in een klassieke route in de Dolomieten geen 5+ zijn. Been there, done that. Niks 5+. Basta.

A bolt has been added. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt - a (n almost) groundfall is still possible.

Bit humid and dirty today. Bouldery start which eases off after the first 2 bolts. Fun hold inbetween 2nd and 3rd bolt. Easy and fun finish on mostly solid handjams. Mayby 7a+ when clean and dry? A lot easier than Donkey Kong for me.

Nice route, but very easy for the grade which was a bit disappointing as I constantly expected 7b-climbing to appear. Alas. Felt like 6c+/7a but then again this I my preferred style of climbing.

Very impressive climbing right next to the chimney. A bit loose maybe, and with hard/spacey to clip bolts in the starting dihedral, but manageable for a well rounded climber. Retroflash?

Removed some loose flakes from the route at the start. 7a-ish.

The line atop of the first pitch of Spartacus? Very good climbing. Unfortunately fell off the last hard move because of the sweaty weather. That sucked, but got to climb it twice :-). Stunning positions.

Should have waited for cooler weather. Good route for an onsigth.

very cool route

superb! Not easy at all. But a nice challenge.

Hard to read crux. But it's a really fun move! Good route. Quite hard even for 7a.

nice and long

Brilliant! Technical and at the same time powerful new skool climbing. Like it!

Nice