Brian Knowles

Beta picture on 27Crags is incorrect, route is further to the right.

Fun route with some nice edges and pinches on good stone. Worth a go

Amazing route, no doubt why it’s listed as a top 50 in the guide book. Really diverse movement on excellent rock. Felt stiff for 6c but I may have missed some better holds on the OS.

Second go, some pretty good moves and maybe a bit more fun since it’s only 10min from my house

Not great, one cool move but you risk decking on the ledge.

While putting up the draws as redemption for a foot slip on the onsight last year. This really is a 5 star climb and along with Tyresö Express should not be missed!

Quite a route! Cruxy, punchy and pumpy,… kinda sums up the whole crag. Happy to put this one down and glad I waited a while, enjoyed feeling good on it.

I stayed low on the traverse and thought the crux was really desperate. Maybe you are supposed to go high on the traverse or I could find better beta but on the flash-go this felt pretty viscous for a 7a. Overall a really fun route and reminded me of the type of shenanigans you find in Yosemite.

Really nice route. Hard to fit more quality climbing into 16m.

Nice route. Short but good movement

Just a brilliant route and so psyched that it has become my first 7c. Worked it over 2 years, maybe 12 sessions. The send was pure limit climbing through the final crux, couldn’t have imagined a closer finish.

Happy to get this one. A few thoughts to share: I thought the left traverse into the undercling sequence was a bit odd. I'd be curious to hear from the FA what the actual intended line of the route is since it really feels off route to do that big 'C' and I think it takes a bit away from the quality. As for the grade, I'd like to call this 7b+ as it felt harder than Orup and many other 7bs I've done, but I think you get enough rests on this route to keep it 7b,... you just need to be patient. Maybe in the US I'd do what I often cringe at and give the 'ol slashy of 12b/c lol.

Not sure I agree with the enthusiasm for this route as described in the details section but it’s ok for what it is.

Really fun one. There is a dangerous flake near the top, to the climbers-left. It easily moves if you grab it and would very likely kill or severely injure the belayer or anyone else at the base. Recommend someone trundle it when no one is around.

Excellent! I think I even found a tiny kneebar.

Excellent. Classic all the way!

Graded 6c+ in the guidebook. Fun but certainly better routes to choose from at Odyssey

Great one!

Classic tufa fight to the chains

Tried the warm up insight, needed a second go for this classic

Fun!

Not a great warmup

2nd go, near onsight but damn hard pulling after the roof. Felt hard for 7a+.

A few moves down low to warm you up.

So much fun. Had to go full try hard mode through the roof but the jams are great! I think it’s pretty solid 5.11+ by Indian creek standards. Only did first pitch, second looked kinda meh.

Guaranteed to warm you up…

2nd go. Really turbo opening sequence but mellows out with a few nice sequences to the top.

Finally found this one free so I could get back on it! Sooooo good! Would be a 5 star route at any crag.

Powerful start. Semi-ok warmup

Another great climb at an amazing crag

Meh, a few fun moves but tough warm up

Second go. Nice and crimpy!

Great and diverse climb for the grade!

Absolutely amazing climb on pristine rock. As good as it gets for the Stockholm area. Would be 5 star route at any crag. Hard to judge but I feel most crags would clock this one at 7a, but maybe the No-hands rest keeps it at 6c+

Got this one while headed to the roof, kinda sketchy getting to those first anchors, especially without the draw hanging

Second go

Tough warm up

Only L1 for warm up. Yikes, not great

Only L1. Really fun!

Just L1

Only to the first anchor, book calls the whole route 6c+ and bottom part felt at least 6c

Nice warm up, a bit runout

Varied route

3rd go, nice short route with some demanding sequences. Impressive if you can onsight!

Polished, delicate foot work necessary. A fine route!

More fun than the 6a’s to the left

Excellent route, bottom felt a bit like a trad climb

Soooo polished, definitely felt harder than any of the 6a’s we did in this area but could have been the sun. Also the bolts are quite rusty, several should be replaced

Harder start than Cheers

Thin start but manageable

Nice route, very safely bolted

Nice climbing with an airy finish

In the sun and polished, felt 6b but maybe just bad friction

Excellent, enduro but proper footwork gets you the rests you need.

Polished

Slick crux

Rope solo on TR, need to come back for lead.

Thin and fun

Adventurous climbing that keeps you engaged. Bolting could have been done better but it keeps you focused on the finishing moves.

Senile flash, tried several years ago but great long route

Warmup

Pumped out hanging the draws

Not sustained

Nice one, no big cams needed (I think I used a single #2). Rap from the anchors to the right is easy with a 70M, might work with a 60M.

Small gear is very much needed. Not sure if you ‘must’ stay in the corner at the bottom or if you can use the ledge to the right. Either way the crux is pulling the roof and a fall there would be ‘exciting’. Felt easier than Afterburner but I guess 6+ or 11a is about right.

Via both finishes, left finish is maybe 5-

Fun, punchy fingers but not sustained

One of the best long crack pitches I’ve done, would be a 5 star classic in Yosemite with a que stretching down the whole valley. I’d say likely an 11b in Yose style so I’ll go with 7- here like most others.

Short but fun

Followed to clean it, super chill.

Good way to dust off your trad skillz. Would be a classic at most trad cragging areas

Great climb, would definitely clock in at 5.11+ in Yosemite. Third try, second attempt on the day. Yellow Totems for the win!

Too many spiders to get the onsight 🤔

Pretty nice route, a bit pumpy on the onsight but could be good warmup once know all the moves

Went right at the top to keep it as a ‘warm up’

One of the best routes I’ve done so far in Stockholm area. No move harder than maybe V1 but quite an endurance fest in the middle.

Meh

Short but amazing movement through a power and core intensive crux, I could see 7b+ for those without a long reach.

Slipped off start, lowered and sent. Hard for a warm up, slick and sporty…

On you right at the start then pretty mellow climbing

On you right at the start then pretty mellow climbing

Really fun, just maybe too easy for a proper warmup

Nice warm up

Second go, definitely a powerful/long move getting over the bulge. I’d have believed it if grade was 7a+ but 7a for those with a reach.

Good warm up

Sharp but good hand jams most of the way

Technical start

Nice warm up

Meh

Ok moves, enough for a star I guess

Good quality stone. Doing the upper section a few times kinda warms you up

Short climb but has some nice movement with strong lock-offs on sharp crimps. I’m happy to call it 7a but maybe I missed a better hold.

Crimptastic!

Slippery

Pretty legit for 6c. The sloper mantle is desperate and maybe it was easier before the foot hold broke?

Lead with falls then TR. A few really fun moves in the middle but the confusion about what which holds are allowable out left was annoying. I think it’s necessary to use some holds out left at the top, otherwise it’s super contrived and pretty hard

Not sustained. Nice position on the wall but climbing isn’t super interesting

Meh

Great route. Didn’t find any knee bars (did not read comments before I tried it). Powerful through the crux, then really eases up

Really tricky! There are hidden feet through the crux but even on second go I felt harder than 6b, certainly if you are short. Also potentially awkward falls. Still fun I guess…

Nice climbing on the arete. Straight forward but really warms up the fingers.

Nice warm up

Hard warmup

Great route. 70m rope will bring you to the starting ledge

Incredibly fun route, the tube isn’t too hard but the traverse makes you work for it.

Really enjoyable movement.

Too many spider webs but fun climbing

Amazing line.

Nice climbing, more technical that it appears. Definitely worth finishing on Hassan Chop (which only adds 5.10a climbing)

Wow, bold climbing that really makes you work for it. Definitely tricky gear through the first half and the first moves into the corner pack a punch. Proud lead.

Short but fun, could be a good warmup

A few cool finger locks. Felt harder than any moves on Luftslottet direkt.