Aaron Schneider

Beautiful line. Had been on my mind since re-hiking everything last fall. No clear verdict if this was ever climbed before, I suspect it was overlooked. Hard at the bottom, easy at the top. Looking forward to trying the right line more when I'm in better shape and healthy.

1st go, shares topout with "Cold Plunge". This boulder's rock is magical.

Such cool, although a bit sharp, pockets, wish this roof went for miles.

Woof. Easy, although sequential, climbing to a secure position before the 2 very insecure moves to the lip. Might not be harder than v5, but it's all in the last couple of moves which are a solid 15 feet off the deck. Hope this sees more love. Appreciate all the foam and support from Jones, Chill, Whitfield, O'Malley.

Goddamned spectacular boulder. Had made one effort to climb on it last year but the water was too high. Somewhat freak low water for December and this is well out of the water. More to do in this cluster before it's guidebook ready! Glad Kensie had the vision for the low.

Spooooooky. This is the stand to the king line of the boulder. All but the first move have gone. I need to get healthy and back in shape.

Working up to the king line. This felt limit today, hoping my elbow keeps on this trend and I can be back at it in full force soon! Such a peaceful day on the river, not a single boater or other person around. Got to explore more quality boulders down river. It's not endless but there certainly is not enough time in the day ...

Getting a bit of mojo back. Gorgeous line. Was concerned there might not be holds, but there are! Need to add a sit but will need to sort the best entry. Psyched on the tall boi crack line to the right.

Long pumpy one! Shares the hard start with Dark Incantation then have to hold it together for the exit crux. Psyched to get Karen out today! Cauldron boulders are grand.

Can't make everyone show up for mega mods 🤷🏼

Grand movement. A little weird at the top but really just more sequential than I feel comfortable with at this height. Cox with the 1-2.

Really good. This boulder is stacked. No flash since I did the topout on a rope. 1-2 with Cox.

Jugs for days

All time. Probably top couple for this grade in the region, even if the landing was dry it's still be incredible, sculpted jugs and crimps, nearly a singular line on this side of the boulder. O'Meara has endless stoke.

Brilliant rig, I'm quite sure no one climbed this in my presence (including me), good chance Micah did this long ago. I remember being too scared of the stump. O'Meara was psyched and brought me along for the ride. More world class mods on the Meadow!

Surprised I was able to pull this out, felt like a struggle, I am out of shape. Crazy how this landed on its edge.

Nice iron crimps.

Great mini rig. You don't always have to get scared to have fun.

Brilliant. My elbow is slightly not terrible. Great day out with O'Meara and Fanning.

Had been mentally preparing for this boulder for a long time. Water needs to be below about 50cfs I think or a puddle forms under the bottom. Kyle repeated on our next day out and did the jug rail traverse coming in from the right. Rad river boulder.

Some mega spiders I had to gently shoo to the sides. Water was about 20cfs and still needed a landing built. The right line is the best looking one but the landing seems unlikely to be easily remedied.

Must have been done ages ago by Roper and crew. Glad Alicia made it out! This boulder is stacked.

Probably an FA? Moved a bunch of rocks to fill in the puddle. Such cool plate iron holds.

More cursed than its taller and prouder neighbor, but a great climb nonetheless. This was my initial goal that was eclipsed by my higher aspirations. Fanning with one of the coolest FA's I've seen in person of the Split Rock arete. And an absolute wild end to the day. CFS went from 400 ish to over 3k with a surprise release of the dam. Roper finding his fishing poles and Lisa's sun shirt were icing on the cake! Great day! Scary copperheads ...

Incredible. Looked past this previously due to the height and uncertainty. Not too hard, more scary, although the landing is easy to pad with good foam. Stays in the shade til mid afternoon. Water level (started) low this day, CFS mid 400s, I think probably up to 800+/- should be fine for this boulder.

Funky climb, incredible feature visibly but not the best climbing. The straight up face is gonna be quite difficult. Happy birthday me!

Great lowball. Rad slimpers with a mega lock-off. Found a kayak in the woods and got it returned to its owner. Alvie came to hang and his company was very much enjoyed.

Beautiful boulder but mostly one hard move to start.

Could be an FA. Sorta a flash although I scrubbed the top on a rope I did not do any of the moves. The line headed left is intriguing and frightening.

Fuck yes. How would you not remember climbing this behemoth?

Contrived but amazing line with such cool holds. Probably v7/8. Alvie, Fanning, Roper, Lisa -- what a fun day!

Not sure why I never bothered to do the most obvious line in this cluster. Maybe because it bakes in the sun. Did it anyway and it was great. Alicia came! Fun morning.

Rock is great on this one. Had always wanted to do this but the water wasn't quite low enough. Bigggg reach over the lip, almost lost it here. Sketchy climbing over the landing.

Great mod. Big lock.

I wanted to exit right but I couldn't figure it out. Nice and shady in here!

Fun mini rig. Bowling ball!

Less uncomfortable than its neighbor.

Yum. Rudy was so close!

Shoulder wrecker! Could not find another way through. Lisa is almost in the hospital! Thanks for the company Rudy.

Deeeeeep.

Touchy! My favorite on this side of the boulder.

Fun.

More moves than I expected up the ramp.

Finally played on this boulder!

Incredible. Glad Jeremy cleaned her up!

The climbing is weird but the swirls are out of this world. Glad it wasn't condensed. Touch and go with the weather all day. Psyched we stuck it out with Kevin and Jeremy.

Starting on the big flat shelf. Landing was wet and slimy for the low start.

Such cool holds on this shawty.

Incredible. Such good rock for the bottom. A shame the landing is challenging but adds to the fun using the ducky in the landing. Been eyeing this across the river for a long time!

POWA. Don't fall on the rock in the landing. Great holds.

Incredible lip traverse on incredible quality rock. So good I repeated the next time I was out here.

A mega. This boulder has been peripherally on my mind for quite some time. I thought Scotty was about to rap and snake and so I psyched myself up and got really damn scared at the top. Worth it. Still feels a bit incomplete as the low start goes! Top of the list for this fall.

The rock is so good.

Crimpy! Felt hard. I think I'm out of shape. A shame the line to the right does not seem to work due to the rock in the landing.

A bit harder than Hymenoptera, could be v7. Glad I did this while the landing exists.

First go after I had done "Amphibian" a bit before. My favorite on the boulder so far, the iron crimps are great.

One of the harder, more committing, high-up moves I've done on any line. O'Meara with the vision and work to bring this incredible wall to life.

Fabulous. Power endurance. Less mega than I'd hoped looking from the other side but still a grand line on great rock.

The pinchy holds on this that look like choss I was scared to yank on given the dangerous nature of this landing but they seem solid! Jerome trying out one of the scarier projects that exists at the New.

Bottom climbs as well as could be hoped, top is a bit dabby with the tree. Wish the roof around the right side had lines on it!

The direct may be even better? Some funky crossing action to unexpected pockets. Tall and proud!

Incredible line and incredible rock, the iron bands are dreamy.

First go after sending Agua Fria. Nice variation!

Got stung rapping off of it, fortunately did not encounter any more stinging objects. Nice power line.

Solo highball day after hanging with Micah and fam beforehand. This takes the cake.

Delicate one! Less scary top give you roll onto the slab. Scary to even get on top of this boulder.

Not sure why I did not put in the effort to finish this years ago, I now see the error in my ways. Amazing slopes and pinches straight out the middle of this great cave. Is this basalt? I tried Super Center some with some very different beta. Maybe I will be back one day. Best to be here in the evening when it is shady. Samesies for Canada cliffs which gets afternoon shade in the whole valley.

Sit start using your choice of holds around the jug start of "Bon Voyage", head right through blocky holds into a delicate mantle.

Start sitting matched on the lip of the pedestal, mantle onto the pedestal and finish up the face direct. I might even like this variation better!

This rock is sooooo cool. Would love a whole basalt boulder field. Does it exist? Not sure I did the easiest beta.

Great roof climb lip traverse on amazing granite pinches and wraps. The rock on this is excellent, possibly the best granite I've climbed on anywhere. Had a frustrating first day on this rig, felt terrible, jittery, not enough sleep, could not get my life together. First go from the start after a calm and collected warm-up today. I also found a clutch right crimp to let the foot walk through the crux be chill, I probably would have sent quickly on day 1 with this. Max 2nd go'ed it! Contender for best single line in Acadia? Bon Voyage is pretty great ... 🤔

Took a couple more goes than I'd hoped, as is the way of things.

Amazing boulder.

Fun little squeezer to start the day. Same day as the FAs on the Zen Den boulder not sure I logged them correctly.

Love the progression. Possibly still would be the best way up of the boulder even if the giant log was not there.

What an incredible wall. 3 days, almost took it down with unrefined beta on day one, day two was way too cold and I was way too tired, day three was also too cold and I almost did not do it but a couple beta tweaks made it possible even when I was fatigued. I insist it is not high in the grade ... but is high in quality. Perhaps I will return for some other bubble action.

Great scott! This boulder is rad.

Blew the flash in my hesitancy to commit to the OG sequence. 4 or 5 goes total I think. Lovely rock climb.

I really like the holds on this guy, perhaps other than the sharp 3 finger crimp. Cool patina divots and pockets! I think the climbing has better progression on this line than Sumthin', but is also a heck of a lot harder and sustained. Used the hands-on-the-rock cooling method presend which truly made a difference. Warm day but had a (not quite) alpine start to get acceptable temps. Rad boulder, glad I made the long approach out here!

MEGA! Insane boulder, probably the longest boulder problem I've climbed, about 30 moves before I'm standing pulled up onto the face and a couple more moves to get topped out. The rock is uncomfortable through the middle section but the climbing on the two boulders is very fun. Probably a v8 at the bottom and v7 at the top connected by easier climbing. The pump factor is so huge I can't see this getting less than 10 points. Glad Steve got to polish her off before I had a chance to make it back! Landed at CVG at 210p, drove the 2+ hours to bethel, hiked the miserable bethel hike in the humidity only to find condensed rock, drove the 1.5 hours to this, found it condensed on the sides, went to bed to wake up to it only slightly damp and finishing drying. Warmed up on the middle section, did the end boulder twice falling on the last move one of those. Rested, fired her from the bottom. No way I could have made it through the 2nd boulder if I had to try again. Great strike mission!

Rad boulder, cool line, pretty good rock for Foxtown. Wish I had a bit bigger shindex for Deliverance but gotta make do with what I've got.

Honestly felt pretty hard, but maybe I just wasn't warmed up yet?

Couple quick tries, I like left hand crimp, right hand cross to the underside of the plate.

The easier but no less amazing right exit. I got wrekt on this boulder today.

A new, nearly roadside mega that has mentally been years in the making. From a horrid landing, to the silt covered wall, and with the challenging water levels, this was never the priority it should have been. An absolute endurance masterpiece with a just-hard-enough crux at just the right height. And holy shit, Kensie's 1st-go-of-the-day send was insane with an honestly frightening level of commitment. Yes!

Holy hell, Mowrer's beta ftw! Can't believe I could span the move with the toe hook beta. Even seems like it could be linkable from the start? Getting stretched out is rewarding even if I dread it.

Izzo flashed, I took an hour to do it. Brilliant rig.

Could be 2nd. Took me a minute! Appetite is hard for me.

I really liked this traverse! Pumpy slopers to a hard mantle. JD with the flash!

Despite the dirt this is a really fun climb. Not a flash since I did the topout already on "Eggs Benedict".

What a beautiful, beautiful boulder and immaculate rock. I may be partial to Nuttallburg stone but this is arguably the best rock at the New. White gold. Traverses are not normally my jam (although OSOG comes to mind) but the beauty and difficulty of this was too good to pass up. Hoping that access is secured! Regarding the grade, it took me 5 days, 2 of which I regressed. I did two 11s (albeit low end) on my first day of effort each this season and this is substantially harder than those and arguably more my style. However, in isolation the crux sequence feels solid v10. I think upper 11 or very entry level 12 and a specific skillset. Most psyched I've been for a single line in a long while. Thank you Kevin, Chill, Steve for coming out with me on different days.

Oh my, thought I was not going to do this again when I split my pinky in the first good go with no tape. This boulder needs it to be cold and my skin cold. 32 degrees in Mount Lookout and probably 5 to 10 degrees warmer down here. Gamble paid off not climbing more yesterday after finishing Between Beauty, but just barely. Feels 10/11 but I don't do slashes so 10.9 it is.

This took me many days of effort for a climb that does not seem that hard for others. I was forgetting the crucial toe hook for the 1st move off the middle start. Some major funkery for the beginning because I just cannot float around on the middle start holds like I've see so many other people do. Watched Eric do this 1st try after flashing the middle start, very impressive. 2018-8-6 Between Beauty, Middle Start: Huge jump from stand (2 tries for it) and another huge to the full line, will have to try in cooler conditions. Needed to keep the toe hook for the 1st move to keep the tension for the 2nd. Another awesome wall with tons of links and variations courtesy of Marley!

Snuck one more in before the new year! Surprised nobody did this years ago, but it is specific and difficult. I climb well in a tiny box. Really not so much power endurance even if I barely made it through the end section, desperation on every move after the crux. The low start is a mega line and I imagine hard 12. Glad Chill nabbed this one! I've been struggling to create momentum this fall and early winter but maybe this was the ticket. What's next?

Fun first move. Sandmann FA before me. Squeezing one hard move starting right hand on the arete. Video deep in the archives but Roper walked through the shot ;-)

Incredible slab! Roper, Becca and Steve.

I think Steve did this first? Weird climb if I remember.

Cool moves but choss :-/

Got numb, dry ad scared at the top. Beautiful wall. Ashes proj is gonna be scary scary crux up high.

From the last good holds before the horizontal seam I went left (easier) than right. True last go best go scenario as I ripped a large hole in my left index finger on the send go. Probably would have dispatched a few moves earlier had a figured the high left foot for the crux move. Felt 10/11 although incredibly specific ... and incredibly awesome. I think more folks (especially those with small fingers and short reaches) would do better on this than they'd expect. Hope it gets more love! I will be back, the arete beckons.

Great movement, had to mummify my tips to get her done at the end of a warm day. Hope the crux right hand doesn't break free, seemed solid. Really appreciate the tour from Dylan, he's a swell dude :-)

Fun. Sharp in the warmth.

Took me a lot of effort, I did not feel comfortable committing to the big move. Ended up locking off to the tiny high intermediate crimp, then bumping right to the lip keeping left hand and right foot on. Started left hand in the slot for the start.

Roper came to climb!

Gotta really work those fingers in there.

Only managed the mantle cuz Roper made it look so easy and I had to do it too.

Start by scrunching into a tiny ball. Then unscrunch. Then use the cool iron band pinch.

It's okay.

Possibly 2nd. I enjoyed!

Lol this felt hard AF

Cool cool

Freaking great squeezer.

Realll nice. Spookier topout than the Blends! Zack made the topout lovely and clean tho. Big Wave is harrrrddd.

First go but had already climbed the top on "High Not Dry".

Amazeballs. First go from the start after sussing the top. Spooky with the rock in the landing. Prettiest big boulder in the New?

I was stoked on this one sweet mantle and hard first move.

Felt hard. I was tired. Not the best.

Tricky, grovelly.

Surprised this is great for being so short.

Slogging away.

Fun!

Grand!

So grand.

2 or 3 goes? Amazing amazing slopers.

Had done the top already for the right line first go pretty fun.

A true mega. Thank goodness someone finally did this boulder to add to the NRG canon.

A curse and a contrivance. Bleh.

Unclear what the original description wanted you to do. Death lichen!

2nd maybe? Not the bestest rock but very lovely climb.

Gotta crimp kinda hard

A few different ways to skin this cat. I did a big move!

Great scott!

Scary scary scary

A couple tries after "Fruit of the Loom". Challenging slopers!

Really liked this pair, great rock, ended up being trickier and harder than I expected. Fun fun crew with Lisa, Alicia, Angela and Chill!

Beautiful beautiful boulder. Scary up top!

Enjoyed the process on this with CHill, tricky topout! Probably easier if you're shorter.

Took a pile driver fall the go before the send. Also I guess I dabbed on a tiny little plant, did not see that til reviewing the video later. Oh well

Lovely mini rig. Felt hard, tricky body position. Repeated the week after. Angelo with the 2nd, Chill the following week with the 3rd.

Lisa did it too! Not sure if this is the correct date.

Cursed

Meh. Least favorite on the boulder.

Maybe the best climbing of the 3 although I liked the middle one personally.

Tricky! Scary!

Had already done the middle line which shares moves.

Dirty but great.

Probably 1st? Love the rock, gives it an extra star.

Hardddddd

Pretty fun!

Greatness.

Lovely. Committing at the top. First go from the ground after sorting the moves up high on a rope.

So stinkin' good. Wish it didn't stay wet often. Great flow. Probable FA. No flash cuz I had done the right line first.

Sharp! Probable FA.

I really liked the holds on this one. Probable FA.

Scared myself at the top. Not sure I did this on this day or the following guide work sess.

Feels incomplete but the low start is weird. Fun day with Eric!

Great rock.

Really good! Felt hard this day, giving it an upgrade til I hear otherwise. Scary move at the lip.

Also felt hard but I was haggard from 2 long days of boulders and development.

Gorgeous boulder. One more that we had missed forever. Weird sequence, slippery rock. Can't let these kiddies get these high quality fa's ;-)

Had looked at this years ago and tried briefly, was too tired and out of my vision at the time. Sorted the bottom crux quickly this year on an end of the day investigation, made it happen pretty quickly today! 2nd go from the start. Incredible climb, I wonder if the high heel will give folks trouble.

An outrageous boulder, so hard to believe we missed this before. Was hoping it would go with the neat slot crimp out left but ended up being easier using the razor blade. Love this rock.

Deeeeeep lock for that last move. Sit unfortunately is weird.

Could be harder too. Dirty.

Took me several goes, I think it's harder than v4 even if it was baking in the sun (morning) and the top was heinously dirty. Lip felt easier after a good scrub. Seems easier if you're taller.

Pretty cool slab. Cleaned as I went and used this to access cleaning of the arete.

First go but maybe doesn't count as a flash since I'd used the lip holds before. First move is awkward with a high right heel, the rest is amazeballs.

Kinda hard and scrunch.

Amazing. Shorty but the holds are so cool. This whole boulder turned out great.

Took me a few tries to do the large first move without whacking my knee. What great rock.

This boulder is freaking HUGE! What an insane setup for this massive block. Beautiful rock on this face and this is the obvious line up the center. Certainly could have been done years ago but claiming FA until I hear otherwise.

Beautiful boulder, beautiful setting, near immaculate rock. Cannot remember how closely I looked at this before but good chance the landing was under water. Heady with limited pads and no spot! Probably height dependent, expect this will feel really hard with a short reach. I think this is the boulder that Paul Nelson pointed out echos as you float by in a raft. I bet Paul would know what an Echoplex is. My favorite run of the lower New, miss you dude.

Scary and weird but god damn this rock is amazing.

Could be an FA? Great lip traverse with a sub par landing. Loving this zone.

Maybe FA? Hard to believe this was not done or found before but it is weird to get to. Eric broke the start after I had sent and had to do a second time. Rock is not up to Nuttallburg standards :-P

In the Salewas weeeeee

I'm lovin' it.

I don't think this will be terribly hard when it's less hot although prime temps and low water will be a hard combo to achieve.

Brilliant! Proud with high committing moves. I'm glad Cox and Fanning had psych to burn today!

Awesome to get Zack Smith down here and psyched to scrub some good-uns. Sorted the beta on the hard line around the left but disastrous efforts going left hand first to the crimp gave me a pulley injury, left middle A3 :-(

Reaaacchhhhh

2nd? I dunno it was 85 degrees.

Rain predicted all week, but got this incredible window. Water still low 40 CFS today. I think I sandbagged Berry Picking. This is a super cool problem but the line is forced because of the dab rock. Unfortunate dab potential but I still really enjoyed the climbing. This may be my favorite single boulder in the world because of how improbable it is. What a great day.

Been a long while since I punted this hard. Thank goodness I was able to pull it off again, and it let me find a better foot beta for the final hard move. Pure desperation at the top. The holds on this boulder continue to just straight wow me. 4 grand lines and this is the hardest. Difficult for me to tell how much easier this will be when it is cold, but I am continuing to try and decrease my sandbaggery so will go with low end double.

530 wake up to try the rig on the edge of the river. It is hard. This is great, a little sharp. Can't really say I flashed it since I was standing all over the top while I was cleaning. Happy birthday Stella!

2nd after Brian.

Nice face!

I like this line better than the left variation but it is forced given the left is easier.

Incredible this boulder has 2 almost entirely separate lines up the two adjacent features. This one could have been awful but ended up climbing like a dream, techy with increasing tension until you unravel for the crux, followed by a couple more hard-enough moves to keep it interesting. Thought this would be harder as I was struggling the evening before but a night of rest and fresh psych, this went down first go from the start today. The new zone is fire!

Cool line although top is cruxy. The boulder is grand.

This boulder was good enough for me do 5 days of trail work to make it here. First major line of the new zone. The season don't stop.

A lovely rock climb, opening the fridge doors.

Wooo flash! 2nd go for Derek. Felt on par and similar style to Shiver Me Timbers granted I climbed that like 10 years ago. Love how different the rock is on this and MRST, and both are beautiful, beautiful boulders. Will need to come back for Guacamole and the other pretty lines in this cluster.

This one scared me! Top was harder for me than the bottom, imagine this would feel a lot more chill in the 50s but the long reach over the lip is going to get harder the shorter you are. As always, another great Zack line.

Amazing I got this done although I'm not sure at what expense, another round of finger injuries coming to light as they seem to do each spring. Maybe worth it? Quite a warm day today high in the mid 70s but waited for prime day-time temps at about 730p to take her down. Feels maybe a hare (lol) easier than March Hare, a bit less friction dependent although I think overall the styles are similar. Hard to believe I would be able to do a 12 with one real day of work, even if I'd gotten the 1st two moves (nearly) dialed for March Hare, they are not the crux. It is once again my style although maybe a bit less so than March Hare. I could see both of these being really specific, high end 11s for small crimp masters, but will defer to Marley's assessment for now. Glad Kenny B got to come out today! And Odin! I think I sorted my beta for Cheshire Cat although never actually did the 2nd or 3rd moves but felt close and was pretty tired. Maybe something to try more in the fall or if we get a freak 50 degree day soon.

Cool climbing with sub-par rock. 1-2 with Derek.

Amazing. Possibly my favorite yet from Zack as it fits my style, is impeccable rock, serene setting and has spectacular aesthetics (other than the poo smeared across the bottom). So glad he had the vision and psych for this special boulder. Felt 9 but it fits me so well, will leave at 10 for now.

Fits me like a glove. Mega scrunch crimps and slimps, first 4 moves off the same foot. 2nd day this year maybe 4 days total I think because it's so specific and my jam that it may slide into low end 12 but will need to wait for a repeat, which seems like it will be rare due to the specific nature of the climb. Small person small finger friendly!!!! The rock on this one is simply spectacular. Send train with Derek and Scotty on Tom Thumb and me on this. Need to put in some effort on Mad Hatter while the weather sticks around. Excite! Now to see if I can fend of this tweaked finger ...

I liked the eliminate version better.

Find the hidden 2 finger pocket up top. Hardest/trickiest on the boulder.

The topout felt impossible until I went up top to find the hidden edge. I like tricky tops.

Probably my favorite on the boulder.

I liked this one.

This is crazy but this could be an FA?

Did it but not especially happy about it. One weird move into an otherwise pretty cool problem. Still did the right exit. Ended up finding easier beta from the 2 pinches that takes you into "Shut The Front Door", if we're trying to not have eliminates. Obviously could have done it without the sloper too but would be even more contrived/forced. Climbed the lite version on 4-1-2023 "Not sure what happened but the beta I used today felt impossible when I tried this originally. Toe up on the start of "Shut the Front Door". Hand jam! Right exit today. Did not feel especially hard once I figured out the beta, could be easier. "

The prettiest 8'x8' section of wall in the entire New? The right hand pinch is just phenomenal. Ended up being nearly a 1 move wonder for me, I do think this is going to be morphologic and may even feel v9ish for tall folk. It seems like once you can't reach the pinch comfortably it gets hard and the shorter you are the harder. Low start definitely goes but probably v12 with one singular hard move and then having to do the crux of the original again. So glad Zack made this happen because even though I'd looked at it before I never thought I'd drag my ass all the way up here and thought the landing was effed. We need more folks developing!

Could be the best of the grade at the New. I'll have to think on that one.

Made the big deadpoint boulder into a crimp boulder. Great climb nonetheless, all amazing holds. Zack makes the goods happen again and again!

Took me a lot of sessions for this one especially if you include my initial Ravenous sessions. 2nd go from the start today, feel like I'm climbing well. I concede that despite the two crimps being the obvious start from afar, the undercling slot makes more sense. Dialed the kneebar sequence. Could not do Chipotle Honey today despite all out effort, the finger lock hurts! Original Ravenous sent 2017-01-02

Maybe 45 minutes? Effed the skin on both index fingers on Wildfire. I thought it might be too warm for Wildfire and my gamble did not pay off. 2nd ascent of this one I think. Felt pretty hard, pretty much brute forced the crux. Sounds like Josh was able to skip the campus move I had to do to reach the jug and reached it from low.

INSANE. Tallest boulder I've climbed that wasn't slab at the top and had a real mantle. Mantle at about 30 feet? I would have walked by this forever if Zack hadn't gotten psyched. Zack with a moment of flow state on the send. What a way to cap off the lake season. Excited to get back to the lake for more ... always.

3rd? Narrow weather window after my shift ending at midnight on Thursday and started raining at 1030 Friday morning, got to the parking at 830. Pretty quick but it is my style and friction was great, cloudy with temps in mid 40s when I started. Huge thanks to Dylan for coming out with me and putting in the word to make these gorgeous rigs happen! Psyched to try Abysmal again, the sess was cut short by the wet. Hard to say if this deserves the dd but felt more 8 or 9ish to me, I don't have any great comparators. Possibility of a bit lower start to eliminate the pad stackage?

WHAT?! Really didn't think this was going to go today. My third day on it only one other day this year, did the crux in isolation last year but didn't feel like I would have the endurance to link. 25+ moves of greatness. Scotty with the support! Out-of-towners don't know what they are missing. I suspect this is high 11 more than 12 but I also feel like I'm climbing well. Would surprise me to be able to finish this line after only 2 half days and one full day of effort, although I had worked the stand of Tom Thumb a couple of times. Will have to throw myself at more hard rigs soon. Need to figure out how to stay healthy this year.

Blew the flash with a foot slip.

Felt hard but maybe I missed something.

1-2 with Grady! Sorta tricky, had to trust the high left foot.

w000000000t!!! 4 days of linear progression. Day 1 didn't do the crux. Day 2 did the crux once. Day 3, did the crux on tries 3 and 4 and blew off the lip twice. Day 4, slow warm up and fired 2nd try from the start. Grady fam may be our neighbors!

Rock is rough but the line is grand. Ate shit harder then ever when the flake broke the first time I got to it, hence the name (not a sex reference). Somewhat unexpected send and almost lost it after the crux. Taking em down!

Did Silly Goose 1st try (didn't flash since I had hung on the rail to warm up before), then did this 1st go from the start. Felt easier to me than Midnight Gospel although I did feel a lot more on my game today. Time will tell, guessing entry v10

Hard first move hard last move, gotta find the flow in between. Nice one DJ!

I think a little poop fell out at the top. Wild slab climbing, 2 fingers on the tiniest of edge. Dried out at the top and almost blew it. Need more of this.

Somewhat unfortunate, need to stack the pads, hard first move mars what is otherwise some fabulous juggy slab climbing.

Funk! Kneebar for the start. Way cool.

Slopey slopey. I would have never found this boulder in a million years.

Another roadside rig that was overlooked until DJ put in the efforts to clean up this wall and D'Amato took her down. Felt hard hard with a powerful exit crux. 3 days and some very specific training. Maybe I can build some momentum.

HARD first move on immaculate rock. Not a huge fan of one movers but the holds are brilliant and the face is beautiful. Battery cut out on Sean right on the send!

FA? Great line.

More newbies on the lake!

I had a lot of fun climbing this.

Weeeeee

Start is weird.

My back is gonna pay for moving the rock for days. Dumb of me.

Power. Get them feet up.

Way fun 1.5 mover.

Grade seems suspect but certainly my style.

5 hours of sleep post night shift 3rd day on lez do this.

So much in this cluster.

It got dirty dirty. Slappy slappy.

Really good.

This wall went better than I'd expected!

Toppen got me psyched. Intense lip traverse trickery at the beginning followed by pump then a struggle to get out of the pool. Really climbs quite well.

Beautiful, tall, heady. Only detractor is it's in a corridor but a nice hideaway from the blasting sun. Alvie came out on the boat!

Lots of climbing yesterday and today ... repeat whelp and jah-high before this then this evening on omerta! The low on this is hardddd would love to try it fresh, maybe one day. The topout on this guy suckksssss.

2nd go. Sharp. Crimpiest line on the island and I didn't crimp. Did this day and the next morning as well.

Tricky, weird, fun. Did this day and the next morning.

3rd go, 2nd from the start. Just soooo slimy but not really that hard. I love the holds tho. Moth attack!

The best, chossiest climb on the planet? Struggle fest with the sun out, probably would feel much better o a cloudy day. V4/5 into V8 ... hard v8? Low v9?

The setting makes this incredible. I did start in a seated position on the climb and not under it, oh well.

The holds on this wall are fantastic. Group fav of the trip.

Loved this one, maybe even more than Sweet Honey. The cylindrical sloper is so cool. Nice power endurance. 1-2 with Griffin.

Cool dishes. I started on the hueco edge for Nerts.

Neat holds on a lip traverse. I assume this is low end slash soft for VG given this felt 8ish real world. Guess we'll see.

Lovely.

Moved a lot of rock to fill in the landing but more could go. So many great mods in this zone.

The iron is sooooper cool on this one! Your leg gets stuck underneath, I wonder if this will be harder if you're shorter? Did the higher start first.

I like.

Moved some rocks out from behind to make this not feel dabby. Missed the undercling crimp when I was looking at this with Kory but it really makes the problem. Don't get your foot stuck!

Hard, sharp, an eliminate, what's not to love? This little wall is fun and filled the void in a couple hour time slot taking Odin to his oncology appointment but I'm glad I never went out of my way to come here before. Didn't have the juice for Brooklyn Bridge but imagine this is because of a rather heavy training day yesterday. Here's to hoping

It's decent.

I may have come up with this boulder theme while on the shitter. The landing is a shame.

First on the boulder to go down! Lots of landing work. Lots of chill. More technical than its neighbor to the left. Thanks for coming out Roper, Lisa and Stella!

Couldn't stop thinking about this rig after seeing this boulder. What a fucking badass slap. Discrete holds, heady, almost almost completely independent line, really doesn't get better than this.

The climbing is probably better, but easier, without the extra moves.

We slid the MEGA slab! Added a half star to this rig. Took a really long time to figure out the left hand move to the high crimp on the face, then tucked her away 2 goes from the start later. Felt like I finished her off too quickly for the double, but Roper says I shouldn't sandbag things so we will see ...

Beautiful if not a bit sharp. Micah with the FA years ago? Long Point is stacked.

Sharp conglomerate tooth in the right hand sidepull.

I guess I'll call it a flash even if I did Summersville Traverse first.

First go. My fav on the boulder.

A bit uncomfortable but still fun. Kory came to visit and climbed!!

Tall boi. Steve got psyched. Probably 3rd ascent. All cleaned up now.

Just lovely holds on this large large boulder.

Brilliant holds. I used that slimper, was too scared to commit for the big move to the high rail. Scotty with the vision!

Lisa took her down!

Took more effort than I had planned. Felt hard. Got angry at it. Neat roof! Watch that dab.

Finally! One of my longest running projects even if it was far spaced sessions, still took me 4 or 5 days? Feel like for my height and reach this warrants an upgrade, I suppose it could be morpho enough to be a 9 for others although possibly just a sandbag from the start. 5th ascent after Rose, Mercer, Cox, Sellew? Used Cox's beta going to the sloper divot then bumping to the crimp. Camera glitched and repeated 2 goes later. Hope my shoulder isn't injured like on my prior sessions. Slowly ticking away on these harder to come by megas!

Top few prettiest walls in the whole New. Maybe I shouldn't let the kiddies get fa's.

Tricky one. Way harder than anticipated looking at this wall.

Really neat right hand v-notch pinch.

Also a really great climb, worthy addition to Monte. Did the end of this, then took me 5 or 6 tries to restick the 3rd (crux) move, including a dry fire that split my left index, and took it to the top. Possible dab on a rhodo leaf pulling my right foot up for the very last move although I don't see it in the footy. Very much enjoyed my day on this boulder and looking forward to more greatness.

Great vision on this block. When he first showed me I was unimpressed, but with some landing work and chalk this wall turned into an impressive addition to the already excellent nearby offerings. Really different rock. Dry day, dry fired off the left crimp several times. The finish move is scary! Especially solo. Have had a lot of fun climbing here. Seems like lower end, solid 10.

Two hard right arm lock offs. If the rock was better quality this would get another star but the start hold is a giant loose flake. Looking forward to coming back and climbing the right side and others in this cluster. Kupferman with the FA! I need to check out all the other lines Roper fa'ed in this cluster today.

Didn't think I was gonna be able to reach but sorted some magical ballerina foot beta that keeps her from being reachy. Mono! Slab! Did the right exit.

Really quite good. Probably gets 7 in cool temps.

Spent a good while trying to suss this out the prior trip with a high of about 75, went down in 3 quick goes today. Temps matter people. Another grand one.

I overlooked this one before because I didn't realize there were near perfect, right hand holds underneath the overhang. The rock is downright spectacular quality, obvious jug start, fun somewhat delicate finish. Definite crux move but once you're tired from the crux move it is still on you til you hit the start of "Peanut Butter Kisses". Thank you for throwing me a bone! This one may get the downgrade but trying to sandbag less.

Sharp but fantastic.

Dyno is hard for me! Really freaking good tho. Bringing home the goods.

Damn another power endurance beauty. Lovely crimps. Right shoulder wrecker. Low in the grade I think.

Simply outrageous. Possibly my favorite FA, at least up there with Deep Fried, OSOG, LOC SDS, Algorithmic. About 20, flowing moves on crimps across a giant roof, riverside. I first spotted this block Gauley season 2020 with a lower Gauley trip lead by Jeff Shields. I saw it again rafting 2021 and decided I needed to find it. To my complete surprise it had holds allllll the way out the entire roof. Simply delightful. 4th day on, although I may have been able to send day 3 with the slight beta changes I used on day 4. Jeremy Kupferman, JD Love, Josh Mowrer, Elliot Gaunt all with the support on different sessions. A contender I think for top 100 double digit boulders in the country, although the alternate start and theoretically alternate ending could be detractors. Entry 11 I think, will probably fill chill if you have good power endurance on edges.

Fucking awesome, scary landing.

If not for the tiered landing this would be all time. Beautiful boulder, excited to come back for the dihedral to the right. Scary finish move to the lip!

Did it from the OG start with left hand down low, right hand on the better crimp. 1st move is the crux then it's all about holding it together from there. Did the harder, right exit. Felt like v9 with this start and finish.

Maybe 2nd if Jones was the first? Really freakin' fun, never climbed a line quite like it although I know many exist.

It was very warm today. Great hanging out with Dan, Michelle and Cece! Took me 2 tries? Felt hard hard for the grade and reachy.

This thing is really quite fun, short walk, good landing. Amazed I didn't mess with this earlier. Warm day, mid 60s but felt good with a breeze and dry air. Will be back for False Start, False Memory, etc.

slimps

Really good.

Bailed out left for the topout.

Probably the best on the wall.

It's okay but also scary scary.

I liked this one, harder slimpers, did it with a desperate match, it's easier with using all the holds ;-)

Instead of a scary mantle find the large jug up and right.

One mover, like the slopes/slimps.

Slimpers! My game. Hardest on the wall unless someone finds a worthy link-up.

Cool jugs, pretty sharp rock.

Worst on the wall. Find the little right foot chip and throw a left heel.

Did not think I had this in me! Spent a good deal of time working the Laminar moves the other day and couldn't get the left heel to stay for the life of me. Ended up the heel was delaminating. Better shoes this time and the Laminar moves felt more comfortable like last year. Got Micah out to climb! Beautiful day. Marley really did open an incredible boulder with this one.

One singular go for the whole day, but productive nonetheless, 3 fa's from Stella and realized that Tatooine is a legit sector to focus on soon!

This is a terrible boulder. Pulled off the ground then put a high left toe on the good crimp on "Skipping Stone".

Cox with quite the weekend, mega day at Fern Middle on Saturday, putting up great FAs on Sunday. It's roadside people.

Not a lot of techy face climbs at the New. Hard crimping. I think this will be a good bit easier in cooler temps. All about that high high right foot and left foot on the left starting hold.

Really a cool line, beautiful block. The low would be SICKKKK. Great day out with Cox and Jones.

What a lovely singular-line boulder. Only detractor is the particularly low start, but really after the 1st move this isn't a big deal. 2 days, quite warm on the 1st, 2nd day I came out and unfolded the pads in the morning only to pull on once and realize the direct sun was a no-go. Several hours and a few FAs later I managed to unexpectedly scrape this out. Everything is V8, it's true.

Stiffy before the rain. All the rain. And an intense lower gauley trip! Project should go go go

Really liked this link up. Not sure if Marley did this first?

One last one to finish off this block.

Dab factor is the big detractor, otherwise lovely movement. Climbed 3x cuz my camera did not want to cooperate.

Fun little crimps. Normally wouldn't record as a separate climb to the low start/extension but since this is an FA ... Moved all the rocks today and my back is not happy.

First of the season goes down! Been thinking about this for a long time. 3rd day on it. Took a bit to sort all the beta but went quickly with cooler temps on the 3rd day. Really quite proud. Left arete needs love. Eric Cox with the support!

Tricky, tricky but quite good.

Stand UP!

Scary. Climbed it ground up, climbing up, scrubbing, backing off, etc. Can't remember how hard this was. Or the specific date.

Fun, tricky line. I'm guessing on the grade I did not log this until a couple years later. This was a fun overnight trip at boulder beach with the log fire!

Amazing slopers and pinches! Thanks for the tour Micah! This roof is real good and I can't figure out how it exists. Cranberries bouldering has commenced.

Dang. Amazing line of holds out the roof. More featured than Nuttall and has feet all the way to press into the holds almost as though someone set it in a gym. Excellent flow to a committing crux move at the end. Worth the trek and need to come back for the hard hard left in the roof.

Sandmann freakin day tripped from Cincy, what an animal.

None of the pockets feel especially comfortable but I think this is as much because it was in the 60s and friction was hard to come by. The rose move really is quite cool. Glad Elliot put the effort in to make this wall a thing after having walked by it for years. Will be back for the direct. Chill soon after. The amount of effort this took seems like 9 points is fair. Or I'm just fat and out of shape.

Sweet mini rig one mover. I like coordination moves when I can do them. Felt a good deal easier than Tom Thumb, Butler's Break, etc and agree this isn't a 1 move v10. Also was a warm day. Gets morning shade.

2nd ascent of the low although admittedly easier for the first move now that I moved some more rock out of the way. Makes it far less dabby and far more pleasant. Really an awesome climb even if cruxy. One singular pocket in a 6 foot otherwise empty space of wall makes the whole thing work. Very much unexpected, a pretty warm day (high in low 70s). Only ever did the crux move twice, once in iso then in sequence. Fell asleep on the pads before the last two attempts; seemed to be the ticket. Elliot did the stand before this.

Almost didn't get on this but mustered some end-of-the-day psych to take her down. Maybe the headiest topout, you have to go through a position of balance getting a foot over the lip. Solo ftw! Glad Smith made it happen for us. Brilliant day of unexpected sends.

Tricky tricky. Unclear how big of a contrivance it is/how early you can exit right, but I enjoyed it nonetheless. Parents with the support!

Matt Jones chalked up the holds after I dismissed it as being uninteresting, but ended up being a techy, resistant masterpiece. 3 days, falling on the last hard move on day 2 after finally landing on the sequence. Thought I may pull it down quickly on day 3 but had numerous foot slips on the crux cross move. Excited to take down one more new rig before the weather turns. First time my parents have ever seen my climb outdoors and what a special one. The name is as a reminder of tragic mistakes made, and to be better in the future. More on these two colossal boulders to come.

On the Cirque du Soleil boulder just in front of the stump starts with the snaggletooth hold. Pockets were a surprise. Nice to meet India!