Yearly top 10 averages
Summary
Gr.
Tot
Fl
Re
Diagram
8B 0 0 0
8A+ 5 0 5
8A 33 0 33
7C+ 86 2 84
7C 156 1 155
7B+ 191 10 181
7B 157 30 127
7A+ 137 31 106
7A 13 3 10
6C+ 99 39 60
6C 5 1 4
6B+ 62 31 31
6B 3 2 1
6A+ 35 21 14
6A 16 12 4
5+ 0 0 0
5 3 3 0
4+ 0 0 0
4 1 1 0
3+ 0 0 0
Highlights
Crags visited:
150
Ascents total:
1002
Ascent types
Red point On-sight Flash Top rope
Ascents
Ascent date Ascent date Route Crag Grade Ascent type
2022-01-13
2022-01-13
FA Red point
Carboniferous
7B Boulder at Cicada Boulders
Right of Calamite. Great boulder although I like Calamite a bit better. Fossils everywhere!
Cicada Boulders 7b FA Red point
2022-01-13
2022-01-13
2nd Red point
I Am Groot
7A+ Boulder at Sascrotch Boulders
Great mini rig that I missed when walking this cluster. Such a clean boulder. Slab is gonna be tricky! 2nd after Roper.
Sascrotch Boulders 7a+ 2nd Red point
2022-01-13
2022-01-13
FA Red point
Lepidodendron
7B Boulder at Cicada Boulders
Cool crimps made by big roof flakes into a powerful move to a great incut. Nice to climb quality rigs that aren't so committing.
Cicada Boulders 7b FA Red point
2022-01-13
2022-01-13
FA Red point
Cinematic
6C+ Boulder at Cicada Boulders
WOW. Simply grand. Impeccable stone with flowy climbing to a highly committing top. Does not get better than this for highballs. Brilliant.
Cicada Boulders 6c+ FA Red point
2022-01-12
2022-01-12
Red point
Abandon Ship
6A+ Boulder at Hominy
Really freaking good if not one notch less aesthetic than Titanic. Left arete of Unplugged wall. More hard hard to be had on this face.
Hominy 6a+ Red point
2022-01-12
2022-01-12
Flash
Hominy, Unnamed 03
6A+ Boulder at Hominy
Biggggg stretch slab on the Hominy boulder up and to the right from Titanic, Zak did first this day.
Hominy 6a+ Flash
2022-01-10
2022-01-10
Red point
Titanic
6A+ Boulder at Hominy
Fantastic. 3 or 4 star for the grade. Some things broke pretty easily when we climbed it, could be an FA by Roper. Blew the flash with a pad dab on the 2nd move.
Hominy 6a+ Red point
2022-01-10
2022-01-10
FA Red point
Unplugged
7B Boulder at Hominy
Likely FA. Cold COLD day but we prevailed. Moves felt easier in the 40s when I came back to this boulder. Gorgeous streaked wall.
Hominy 7b FA Red point
2022-01-06
2022-01-06
2nd Flash
The Chonk
6A+ Boulder at Chonk Boulder
Quite fun, a bit scary. Zak with the FA
Chonk Boulder 6a+ 2nd Flash
2022-01-06
2022-01-06
2nd Flash
The Chonk Right
6B+ Boulder at Chonk Boulder
Techy up the right side of the arete.
Chonk Boulder 6b+ 2nd Flash
2022-01-06
2022-01-06
Red point
The Earth Trembled Beneath His Feet
7A+ Boulder at Chonk Boulder
Left side of the face and arete with the sharp iron underclings. Dicey. Probably would benefit from some landing work.
Chonk Boulder 7a+ Red point
2022-01-06
2022-01-06
FA Red point
O Lawd He Comin
6C+ Boulder at Chonk Boulder
Fun techy traverse on thin holds into
Chonk Boulder 6c+ FA Red point
2022-01-05
2022-01-05
Red point
Phantom Nail Sit Start
7B Boulder at Sonnyside Boulders
Took me quite a bit to warm up to this and commit to using the farther left crimp. Great line, thanks for cleaning her up Zack!
Sonnyside Boulders 7b Red point
2022-01-05
2022-01-05
Red point
Sonnyside
6A+ Boulder at Sonnyside Boulders
Excellent line, just tall enough, grand holds. Lisa crushed it! Not 100% this is the name for this one.
Sonnyside Boulders 6a+ Red point
2022-01-05
2022-01-05
2nd Red point
Spiggy G Low
7C Boulder at Sonnyside Boulders
Feels a bit incomplete not starting matched on the right hand undercling but the feet just don't work that way! Glad I didn't have to use the knee bar shenanigans. 2nd?
Sonnyside Boulders 7c 2nd Red point
2022-01-04
2022-01-04
Red point
Sascrotch SDS
7B+ Boulder at Sascrotch Boulders
The 1st and best boulder I saw on the walk out to Long Point in early 2021. Excited to come back for the harder line up the face! Brilliant rig.
Sascrotch Boulders 7b+ Red point
2021-11-30
2021-11-30
Flash
Hemoglobin
5 Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Lovely rail!
Pirate's Cove Boulders 5 Flash
2021-11-30
2021-11-30
Flash
Myoglobin
6A Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Even if it's sorta contrived the climbing is awesome.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6a Flash
2021-11-30
2021-11-30
Red point
Ferrous State
6A Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
In betweener
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6a Red point
2021-11-30
2021-11-30
Red point
Rhabdomyolysis
6A+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Weird for an arete.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6a+ Red point
2021-11-30
2021-11-30
Flash
Crescent Face
6B+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Beautiful and pure, tricky getting over the angle change.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6b+ Flash
2021-11-30
2021-11-30
Flash
Standing on the Moon
6A+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
The holds are simply pleasant.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6a+ Flash
2021-11-30
2021-11-30
Flash
Coxsackie
6A Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Funky.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6a Flash
2021-11-30
2021-11-30
Flash
Fecal-Oral
5 Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Pirate's Cove Boulders 5 Flash
2021-11-30
2021-11-30
Red point
Hand, Foot and Mouth
6A Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Ended up being pretty fun, took me a few goes to figure out the underclings.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6a Red point
2021-11-29
2021-11-29
Red point
Breaking the Cast
Felt easier than Iron Age but I was all warm.
Hawk's Nest Left Boulders 7b Red point
2021-11-29
2021-11-29
Red point
Iron Age
7A+ Boulder at Hawk's Nest Left Boulders
DAMN. 1.5+ hours of landing work with Alvie as this no longer is out of the water. Big lock-off feels hard! Definitely felt harder than "Breaking the Cast". Gorgeous wall that is lit up by the sun most of the day, excellent cold weather locale. Nearly finished up the mega-classic moderates already established at the New.
Hawk's Nest Left Boulders 7b (7a+) Red point
2021-11-01
2021-11-01
Red point
Easy Over Looker
6C+ Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
Now a post-break ascent. If you heel-toe around left and sit with your weight far to the right it makes the 1st move a bit less awkward. Originally did this on 2014-09-14, had no comment at the time.
Fern Point Boulders 6c+ Red point
2021-11-01
2021-11-01
Red point
Ninja Turdle
7A+ Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
Did Ninja Turd 1st, this adds difficulty but probably Low end/high end for the two lines. I like the last move where you go quickly to the lip off the bad left hand. Close on Sound Bite?!
Fern Point Boulders 7a+ Red point
2021-10-28
2021-10-28
2nd Red point
Carnegie
7B+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Start on best incut on the left side of the shelf, right hand to left of the two crimps, left hand to the ear pinch, again left to the flat edge and up, then trend right. Sorted the beta and Marley knocked her out the go before me. Will need to come back for the middle line when my finger is feeling better.
Nuttallburg Boulders 7b+ 2nd Red point
2021-10-28
2021-10-28
2nd Red point
Unnamed 1, Gilded Wall
7B+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Start on the right most, juggy part of the big shelf, trend right through an incredible, small but still oh-so-grippy left hand crimp. Marley once again with some beast-mode beta, while I rode the heel and toe on the start hold as long as I could. Hard 8 or soft 9?
Nuttallburg Boulders 7b+ 2nd Red point
2021-10-27
2021-10-27
Red point
Ripple Effect
7B Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
2nd ascensionist, not 2nd ascent. This boulder is incredible, the best stone ever (seriously), sitting in the middle of the New River. Great find by Marley, surprised I missed this in the initial exploration of Nuttallburg. Somehow we skipped the section between Bigley Shortley and the Pelican, I suspect there is more greatness we didn't scout.
Nuttallburg Boulders 7b Red point
2021-10-27
2021-10-27
2nd Red point
Unnamed 1, Ripple Effect Boulder
7C Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Start sitting on the left facing Iron gills, climb through the business then exit the easiest way out the roof. Great moves. Need to do the low low on the slick slick? Marley is too strong for his own good and did a much harder foot sequence. Glad this is still accessible for us pedestrians.
Nuttallburg Boulders 7c 2nd Red point
2021-10-27
2021-10-27
Red point
Unnamed 2, Ripple Effect Boulder
7B+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Line between the Ripple Effect and the harder line. Rad undercling pinch and heel toe cam. More to clean up on this boulder. Poor odin's toe!
Nuttallburg Boulders 7b+ Red point
2021-10-19
2021-10-19
FA Red point
Anglerfish Right
7A+ Boulder at Deep Sea Boulders
Anglerfish but when you hit the right hand jug, match and go to the small crimps straight above on the right face or giant move to the top of the boulder.
Deep Sea Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2021-10-19
2021-10-19
FA Red point
Anglerfish
6C+ Boulder at Deep Sea Boulders
A beacon of light luring me up to this short but sweet arete. Start sitting, left in the seam, right on choice of a couple flat holds, stay on the arete all the way up.
Deep Sea Boulders 6c+ FA Red point
2021-10-19
2021-10-19
2nd Flash
Cirque de la Lune
6B+ Boulder at Circus Boulders
2nd after Stella. Sweet knee-arm bar. Moved an enormous log out of the way, mostly because my chainsaw chain was dull.
Circus Boulders 6b+ 2nd Flash
2021-10-17
2021-10-17
2nd Red point
Bring Me A Ladder SDS
7B Boulder at Circus Boulders
Beautiful boulder, we might have detractor a star (or 3) with the mega low. V3/7 stand/sit or V4/8? Lake season has begun.
Circus Boulders 7b 2nd Red point
2021-10-15
2021-10-15
Flash
Meadow River, Unnamed 07
6A Boulder at Meadow River Gorge
3rd after Lisa and Amanda. 1st line to go on the new block. Furthest right line with the boulder still at your back. New boulder in Jurassic park just down stream of Loki boulder.
Meadow River Gorge 6a Flash
2021-10-15
2021-10-15
Flash
Meadow River, Unnamed 08
6A+ Boulder at Meadow River Gorge
3rd after Lisa and Amanda. Sweet pinch match in the middle. New boulder in Jurassic park just down stream of Loki boulder.
Meadow River Gorge 6a+ Flash
2021-10-15
2021-10-15
FA Red point
Meadow River, Unnamed 09
6C+ Boulder at Meadow River Gorge
In between unnamed 7 and 8, right facing slopery feature, touchy foot work, humid day. New boulder in Jurassic park just down stream of Loki boulder.
Meadow River Gorge 6c+ FA Red point
2021-10-10
2021-10-10
Red point
Ball Dr.
7A+ Boulder at Pawtuckaway
Took me quite some time to sort the beta on this one. Would benefit from better friction I suspect. Cool sequential block.
Pawtuckaway 7a+ Red point
2021-10-10
2021-10-10
Red point
Fuck the Method
7A+ Boulder at Pawtuckaway
2nd go. Cool bottom sequence heavily marred by an exfoliating, crystal top.
Pawtuckaway 7a+ Red point
2021-10-10
2021-10-10
Red point
Check the Method
7B+ Boulder at Pawtuckaway
Hardest part was getting on the wall. Used a pinch for the right hand, lowest useable holds, pinch made it easier to pull on the wall, Right foot I used a toe on the corner, made moving the foot for the move after grabbing the higher right hand sidepull pretty chill. Probably not V8.
Pawtuckaway 7b (7b+) Red point
2021-10-10
2021-10-10
Red point
Expanding Man
7C Boulder at Pawtuckaway
Over starring this cuz the dyno is rad and I can do it. If I can do a dyno this quickly it's not that hard, but such a fun move. 25 minutes as the last problem of the drip, so psyched I tried it. Great 2 weeks in the Northeast hanging with Max and Yifan. Enjoyed myself greatly! Will be back. although maybe a couple years until I'm ready to sacrifice good temps to try some of the harder northeast lines.
Pawtuckaway 7b+ (7c) Red point
2021-10-09
2021-10-09
Red point
Ride The Lightning
7A+ Boulder at Pawtuckaway
Pretty cool, bet I would like it more when it wasn't stupidly humid in the forest. Wish it wasn't reachy. The mantle was def my favorite part. 2x for good measure. Love the trees and pine needles in this setting.
Pawtuckaway 7a+ Red point
2021-10-09
2021-10-09
Red point
Mr Natural
7C Boulder at Pawtuckaway
Ehhhh I tried to go straight up but petered out, hadn't chalked up that high. Left heel bump beta, couldn't see myself pulling the big move.
Pawtuckaway 7c Red point
2021-10-09
2021-10-09
Red point
Dopeman
7B+ Boulder at Pawtuckaway
These holds are refreshing change from the standard granite BS. Tension through the 1st few moves was surprisingly hard! Greaseeee.
Pawtuckaway 7b+ Red point
2021-10-08
2021-10-08
Red point
Book Of Names
6C Boulder at Happy Valley
Rock ain't the best but the climbing is superb. Top was damp. Would love to get back here when things are dry. Should have listened to Doug when he told me it was probably wet. 2 crag day, Max single-sessed pipe dreams!
Happy Valley 6c Red point
2021-10-05
2021-10-05
Red point
Illustrious Buddha
7B+ Boulder at The Trapps
Took me way to long to figure this one out, despite watching multiple videos as I was sitting under the boulder. Once I finally unlocked all the moves I sent next go. Felt like I was learning to rock climb all over again. Tried Crouching Dragon which felt hard, my anti-style and pure power which I don't have. Next day walked out to Even Lovely, only to find it wet, however this bitch is CURSED. Like the worse curse at the Gunks. Art of Nothing has the smooth rock but wasn't up for a crimp fest. Was psyched on the visual of Jabhoo, only to find it as a dabby POS with cool holds. And quite the AAC campground scene. Parked between the sprinter vans. Dude knocking out his hanging data on the woody.
The Trapps 7b+ Red point
2021-09-30
2021-09-30
Red point
Babies with Rabies
7C+ Boulder at Farley
Wasn't sure I had the skin after snapping off the right hand for the first move too many times a couple of days before. No expectations set me up well. Doug brought the psych! Such a lovely day. Dragged 2 big organics and a blubber up the brutal hill for a 2nd time this week, felt less severe this time around. Lower end I think but felt a notch harder the pipe.
Farley 7c+ Red point
2021-09-30
2021-09-30
Red point
Stereogram
7C+ Boulder at Farley Ledges
Climbs amazing like, a shame it's out of a hole. Felt terrible and slick initially, clouds rolled in and some brushing later the stickiness settled. Probably similarly low in the grade range to Babies?
Farley Ledges 7c+ Red point
2021-09-30
2021-09-30
Red point
Appetite for destruction
7B+ Boulder at Farley Ledges
Big boy. Fell off the top 2 days prior in the dark at the end of the session, 2nd go today. Scared myself on the lip that I had not chalked up and straddled the lip in fear of slipping to my death to the right. Gave Big a few goes but ain't go no jumping in me at the end of the day. Solo!! Tough, but probably more scary and surprisingly techy than truly difficult.
Farley Ledges 7b+ Red point
2021-09-30
2021-09-30
Red point
Thrill of victory
7B+ Boulder at Farley Ledges
Oof the shoulder move at the end of the day. Sorted the body position with all my fingers taped on the right hand, then went for the 1-go-no-tape but ended up with 2-goes-no-tape for the send. Major struggle at the end of 7 hours of climbing. What a day! I hope Doug comes to visit WV.
Farley Ledges 7b+ Red point
2021-09-28
2021-09-28
Red point
Pipedreams
7C+ Boulder at Farley Ledges
Is this the original Pipe Dreams (not Pipedreams)? Best single line I've seen in New England so far, yes better than the Speed boulder cuz that's a mess of stuff. Barely stuck the finish and struggled with the top out. Solo night session for some reasonable conditions, but still before the cool air really set in. V9, I'm not here for the vacay grades.
Farley Ledges 7c (7c+) Red point
2021-09-28
2021-09-28
Red point
Sneaky bird
7C Boulder at Farley Ledges
Started my Farley experience with this funky experience. Speed of Life looks terrifying.
Farley Ledges 7c Red point
2021-09-27
2021-09-27
Red point
Green Goddess
7B Boulder at Great Barrington, Ma
The worst on the wall. Scrunch AF. 2nd go, went to the wrong hold below the lip on go 1. Facepalm.
Great Barrington, Ma 7a+ (7b) Red point
2021-09-26
2021-09-26
Flash
Fen Fen
7B Boulder at Great Barrington, Ma
Star detracted for the early exit through the dirty seam. Sharp-ish.
Great Barrington, Ma 7a+ (7b) Flash
2021-09-26
2021-09-26
Red point
Castellete
7C Boulder at Great Barrington, Ma
One star cuz I like the foot cut move after controlling the good slot with the left hand. "New School" beta starting with right hand in the crimp, left on the undercling. Feels incomplete and in between, probably the dumpiest on the wall.
Great Barrington, Ma 7c Red point
2021-09-26
2021-09-26
Red point
Big Big Love
7B+ Boulder at Great Barrington, Ma
This ridiculous shenanigans is why I boulder, won't see anyone pulling this on a rope. Needed beta help from Dean (? -- with Jordan). Tried Something but it felt hard cuz I'm out of shape and this bakes in the sun all day.
Great Barrington, Ma 7b+ Red point
2021-09-26
2021-09-26
Flash
Spack
6B+ Boulder at Great Barrington, Ma
Getting the day started.
Great Barrington, Ma 6b+ Flash
2021-09-26
2021-09-26
Flash
The Bump
7B+ Boulder at Great Barrington, Ma
I forgot what I wrote here the 1st time around.
Great Barrington, Ma 7b (7b+) Flash
2021-09-19
2021-09-19
FA Flash
God of Mischief
6A Boulder at Meadow River Gorge
1st line I did on the back of this ripple filled boulder
Meadow River Gorge 6a FA Flash
2021-09-19
2021-09-19
FA Red point
Reset Charge
7A+ Boulder at Meadow River Gorge
Mini Roof behind the ripple (Loki?) boulder. Really wanted to start lower but couldn't figure out how to get off the ground with the insane dab factor. 3 mover.
Meadow River Gorge 7a+ FA Red point
2021-09-19
2021-09-19
FA Red point
Pruned
7A+ Boulder at Meadow River Gorge
Wooo a couple hard moves followed by some water smoothed finish pleasantries. So glad there is the start hold underneath this roof. The finest rock.
Meadow River Gorge 7a+ FA Red point
2021-09-02
2021-09-02
Red point
Fall From Grace
7A+ Boulder at Hawk's Nest Boulders
Block go boom, and a wondrous compression line is born. Blew the flash, 2nd go.
Hawk's Nest Boulders 7a+ Red point
2021-09-02
2021-09-02
FA Red point
Fishing with a Chipmunk
7C Boulder at Hawk's Nest Boulders
Tough few mover tucked on the side. Not bad, also not all that great.
Hawk's Nest Boulders 7c FA Red point
2021-09-02
2021-09-02
FA Red point
Cosmic Rings LDS
7B Boulder at Hawk's Nest Boulders
The low start (lay down start) may be a 1/2 star detractor although less dabby than anticipated. I enjoyed it!
Hawk's Nest Boulders 7b FA Red point
2021-08-29
2021-08-29
FA Red point
Mammatus Left
7B Boulder at Meadow River Gorge
Fuck me sideways, another successful strike mission. Watched the water all week as it somehow rose twice on the meadow despite relatively short bursts of rain, then the slow drop after. Too much anxiety as I was unsure if it would be low enough to access this boulder. So psyched it required minimal landing working to cover the small stream underneath. More improbable boulders sitting smack in the middle of the Meadow River. One hard start move into jugs followed by a lovely compression sequence. Spectacular quality rock, consistent climbing, an amazing setting. This is what I climb for and why I moved to the area.
Meadow River Gorge 7b FA Red point
2021-08-29
2021-08-29
FA Red point
Mammatus Right
7B+ Boulder at Meadow River Gorge
Adds a difficult start sequence and pump factor into the brunt of the left variation. Calculated risk with a couple of moves over the unprotected stream underneath. I really want to see someone strong on the line to the right on the adjacent boulder! CFS around 120 when I did these lines. Much more to be had in this cluster!
Meadow River Gorge 7b+ FA Red point
2021-08-15
2021-08-15
FA Red point
Storm Cell
6C+ Boulder at Meadow River Gorge
Fuckkkkkkk, saw the wall of rain approaching as I pulled on and went for it anyway. Couldn't let the last couple of hours of landing work (moving rocks) and scrubbing go to waste. Who knows when it would be climbable again? Rad iron pocket perfectly fits one hand, stacked to start, hard first move followed by easier climbing and one more big pull. Got in a stance before the final small mantle just before the boulder was completely soaked and had to pull out the last move totally wet. Worth it. A couple more mega's in this area, a cool looking slab to it's left and a possible bounty worthy line?
Meadow River Gorge 6c+ FA Red point
2021-08-14
2021-08-14
FA Red point
Shadow Puppet
7A+ Boulder at Karnage Crag Boulders
Maybe FA of this entrance? Climbs into 'High-step Arete'. Shadow match. The climbing is so good here that I almost forget it's mid August with 80% humidity in the mid 80s. This also shows a progression in my climbing, this used to look tall and imposing but felt comfortable going ground up. 5 or 6, high step felt hard and the crux, can't tell how much easier it would be when cooler.
Karnage Crag Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2021-08-14
2021-08-14
Red point
Mud Grappler
6C+ Boulder at Karnage Crag Boulders
Hard first move cuz of no good feet then a few delicious, water polished incuts to the top. Gus and Shaun following with the 1, 2, 3
Karnage Crag Boulders 6c+ Red point
2021-08-14
2021-08-14
Red point
Mud Dauber
7B Boulder at Karnage Crag Boulders
I'm wagering this is an FA but nobody really remembers. In the heat felt like probably 6 or low end 7.
Karnage Crag Boulders 7b Red point
2021-08-07
2021-08-07
Red point
Trail Side Arete SDS
6C+ Boulder at Tuolumne Meadows
Kinda cool. Did it from a sit. Maybe an FA? Probably not an FA. Will give an an extra point from the original.
Tuolumne Meadows 6c+ Red point
2021-08-07
2021-08-07
Red point
Power of Geometry
7B+ Boulder at Tuolumne Meadows
430a wakeup call to get the temps on the last day of my Mammoth trip. Trip tips went right through me. Tried warming up on the Roof problem v4 and decided the mantle wasn't worth it. With my excellent move came and did this in about 20 minutes. Can't imagine this is v9 if The Giving Tree is also a 9 and Solar Power is also a 9 and Conquistador is an 8. Make it make sense. Tried the Giving Tree briefly until the sun melted my face.
Tuolumne Meadows 7b+ Red point
2021-08-07
2021-08-07
Flash
Lost But Not Forgotten
7B Boulder at Tuolumne Meadows
One of the best of the grade in Tuolumne? Unimpressed. There are gems up here but this isn't it. Did it twice, once grabbing the left of the two crimps and jumping to the top, later the more classic method tick-tacking through the crimps.
Tuolumne Meadows 7b Flash
2021-08-07
2021-08-07
Red point
Fear and Loathing in Tuolumne
7C Boulder at Tuolumne Meadows
Entry 8 I think. First go after "Lost but not Forgotten". Would be just another random ass boulder at the New. Was looking for the vacation grades and found it. Great boulder for the crew however with morning shade and accessible climbs regardless of the grade.
Tuolumne Meadows 7b+ (7c) Red point
2021-08-06
2021-08-06
Red point
Meadow Face Sit
7C Boulder at Way Lake, Mammoth
Felt hard. 3rd day, 1st day was end of session, 2nd day was wayyyy to hot, 3rd day 415am wake-up call and what was intended to be a surgical strike ended up with me reworking the entire problem. Barely felt like I established control of the start holds before making the 1st move. Tried to repeat but had 1 decent go then a total breakdown and couldn't do the 1st move. Better temps at 6a made a big difference but would still benefit from colder nights and temps. Maybe the most slippery problem I've ever climbed. It's really a crouch start/low start, no way I can see to start sitting and reach the right hand starting hold.
Way Lake, Mammoth 7c Red point
2021-08-04
2021-08-04
Flash
Snake Eyes
6B+ Boulder at Tuolumne Meadows
I warrant the knobs are cool.
Tuolumne Meadows 6b+ Flash
2021-08-04
2021-08-04
Flash
Sunrise
6A Boulder at Tuolumne Meadows
Felt rather harder than V2, but everything felt hard AF in the heat today. Conquistador has cool moves but ends up being a good amount of choss with endlessly exfoliating smears. Solar Power Sit has the most awkward first move; looks are not everything and IMO does not deserve full stars, maybe 3/4. Tuolumne is overrated IMO, but guess I should try it out when it's not so hot. Missing Nuttall hardcore right now.
Tuolumne Meadows 6b+ (6a) Flash
2021-08-04
2021-08-04
Red point
Kauk Problem Sit Start
7A Boulder at Tuolumne Meadows
First go, flashed snake eyes so couldn't flash this.
Tuolumne Meadows 7a+ (7a) Red point
2021-08-03
2021-08-03
Flash
Black face
6C+ Boulder at Way Lake, Mammoth
5 points for the effort, 1 point for the scare factor. Pretty boulder. Friends don't let friends climb eliminates.
Way Lake, Mammoth 7a+ (6c+) Flash
2021-08-02
2021-08-02
Red point
Hands and Feet Direct
7B+ Boulder at Way Lake, Mammoth
Left into gaston, right into sidepull above, then leftward into the series of jugs then into the jump. Fucked the topout, apparently I missed a hold that let me go rightward, had a gentle tree dab. Ethics :-/
Way Lake, Mammoth 7b+ Red point
2021-08-02
2021-08-02
Red point
Shake 'n' Bake
7C+ Boulder at Way Lake, Mammoth
Lovely grips. Exited left which I guess was not the original, but is the path of least resistance and avoids the awkward movement of the CONTRIVED right exit. No harder than 9 this way, probably low end, doubtful that the right exit would make this double digits. Way too hot in the morning for Meadow Face :-(
Way Lake, Mammoth 7c (7c+) Red point
2021-08-02
2021-08-02
Red point
Seam
6C+ Boulder at Way Lake, Mammoth
Hard, awkward, maybe deserves 1 star in the guide book for a visually obvious line but fails by all other accounts.
Way Lake, Mammoth 6c+ Red point
2021-07-30
2021-07-30
Red point
Black Buddha
7B+ Boulder at Way Lake, Mammoth
Quality compression rig. 1st day in the alpine since Tahoe about 1 year ago. 1st (full) day at elevation this trip and got wrekt on the hike in. Loving the colors in the rock up here, liking this better than granite. Gorgeous scenery. Weather held out despite lots of rain forecasted!
Way Lake, Mammoth 7b+ Red point
2021-07-30
2021-07-30
Red point
Meadow roof sit
7B+ Boulder at Way Lake, Mammoth
Wow somehow pulled this out of the bag despite lack of acclimatization. Dare I say, enjoyed the hand jam. If Black Buddha is 8 then this is 9, but both would be low end for those grades. I could see 7 and 8 in good temps. 1 grade apart regardless. Good start to the trip! Chilled on top of the boulder for a while with cell phone service ...
Way Lake, Mammoth 7c (7b+) Red point
2021-07-27
2021-07-27
FA Red point
Berry Picking
7A+ Boulder at Meadow River Gorge
Well fuck me sideways. Eyed these blocks from the shore back when my parents were visiting earlier this spring, made a mental note to return. Summer drought conditions make the meadow my favorite place to be, wading from shore to shore scouting boulders. There is NO reason this boulder should have amazing lines underneath it. Seemingly precariously perched, however survived the 2016 (?) flood so hopefully here for good. 88 degree highs, but shaded and water to cool off kept the psych alive. 2x for good measure. I think there will be a line out the left side but will have to return! Blackberries, wine berries, blue berries, bear berry poop.
Meadow River Gorge 7a+ FA Red point
2021-07-27
2021-07-27
FA Red point
Boxed In
7B+ Boulder at Meadow River Gorge
Amazing stone but feel like you're avoiding the dab on the pedestal (not on per my discretion) and boulder leaning over top. Took several attempts to nail the big move off the undercling clean without dabbing the back of my hand on the rock. Probably a very hard direct dyno version is possible. Prep for my Mammoth Lakes trip!
Meadow River Gorge 7b+ FA Red point
2021-07-22
2021-07-22
FA Flash
Johnson GT150
6C+ Boulder at Hominy
Forgot to log it! 2.5 days of trail work, landing work and scrubbing followed by a flash and repeat. Great holds, great movement. Still need to do the couple move compression line to its left.
Hominy 6c+ FA Flash
2021-07-19
2021-07-19
FA Red point
Clown Shoes
7A+ Boulder at Hominy
Buy a boat. Learn to turn the boat on. Scour the lakes edge. Get stung by yellow jackets. Rip out LOTS of poison ivy. Get poison ivy. Scrub the boulder. Climb the boulder. Lake bouldering can be a lot of work but damn these 4 star lines are worth it. Another visual stunner that climbs wonderfully, technical body positions over your feet soften otherwise challenging moves. World class. Looking for more. Walking through a minefield with clown shoes. Bound for something to go boom.
Hominy 7a+ FA Red point
2021-06-23
2021-06-23
FA Red point
Zero-sum Game
7B+ Boulder at Hominy
Jumped straight to the top 20 at the New, I believe. Getting harder and harder to keep the four star FA train rolling.
Hominy 7b+ FA Red point
2021-06-17
2021-06-17
Red point
A Certain Shade
7A+ Boulder at Lower Meadow Boulders
Hard for the grade, may be V7. Possibly the prettiest boulder face at the New, climbing is not quite as good as the spectacle, but still quality.
Lower Meadow Boulders 7a+ Red point
2021-06-01
2021-06-01
Red point
Blue Hole, Unnamed 11
7B Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Farthest right mini-line on the patio under the Cathedral Fall's bridge. I assume this has been climbed before, but who knows. It was hot, I was out of shape, could be easier but took a while to sort some beta. Small finger friendly I suspect.
Blue Hole Boulders 7b Red point
2021-05-15
2021-05-15
Red point
Let the Right One In
7B+ Boulder at Redbird
Proud line from Sandmann next to the oil tanks. From the low right. Fantastic jump to the jug with a committing finish. Lovely, quality rock, my later years may be spent in the woods of KY.
Redbird 7b+ Red point
2021-05-15
2021-05-15
FA Red point
Scared of the Light
7C Boulder at Redbird
Starts on the same shelf as "Let the Right One In" but climbs straight up to a large, dynamic move off a weird foot jam. Love the dynamic movement. Probably 8/9?
Redbird 7c FA Red point
2021-05-15
2021-05-15
Red point
Redbird, Unnamed 02
7A+ Boulder at Redbird
Around the corner to the left of "Let the Right One In"
Redbird 7a+ Red point
2021-05-13
2021-05-13
FA Red point
Shuttle Service
7C Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Fantastic compression rig that feels like I'm back on (very high quality) granite. First send with the new Send knee pad! Complete with a punt. The boat is beautiful. Snuck one last gem in before the summer heat? This face may have more potential but will be both hard hard and committing. The face on around the side also has my interest piqued. Maybe hard for the grade?
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7c FA Red point
2021-05-08
2021-05-08
FA Red point
Keel Guard
7B+ Boulder at Hominy
Wow almost forgot to log this. Part of the 4 star lake woods circuit. Narrow compression. Single sess'ed. Can't believe nobody touched this when they climbed the boulders a couple hundred feet away in the lake bed.
Hominy 7b+ FA Red point
2021-05-03
2021-05-03
FA Red point
Skylab
7B+ Boulder at Pride Rock Boulders
Line up the middle of the downhill face of the Skylab boulder. Technical, hairy topout on a sandy boulder. Woke up after not enough sleep to mostly dry weather after prediction of far more rain. Met Brian, shirtless.
Pride Rock Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2021-04-30
2021-04-30
Flash
Atlantis, Unnamed 02
6B Boulder at Atlantis Boulders
Slab working the arete with your right hand, big boulder next to crack boulder.
Atlantis Boulders 6b Flash
2021-04-30
2021-04-30
FA Red point
Atlantis, Unnamed 03
7A Boulder at Atlantis Boulders
Climbing the crack, block leaning on the right side of the main hunk is off. Was hoping you'd climb up the crack but the rock is too rough, ends up as a compression line after one kinda hand-jammy move to start. Still cool. Semi-eliminate.
Atlantis Boulders 7a FA Red point
2021-04-30
2021-04-30
Flash
Atlantis, Unnamed 01
6A Boulder at Atlantis Boulders
Just amazing sculpted holds. Boulder to the left of the crack boulder, up the middle of the left face.
Atlantis Boulders 6a Flash
2021-04-26
2021-04-26
FA Red point
West Virginia King
6C+ Boulder at Alderaan
Left of 2 hueco wall lines at Atlantis. OMG the boat.
Alderaan 6c+ FA Red point
2021-04-26
2021-04-26
2nd Red point
Safe Haven
6C+ Boulder at Alderaan
Zak with a brilliant spot as I exploded a crimp and went flying. Right of 2 hueco wall lines at Alderaan
Alderaan 6c+ 2nd Red point
2021-04-26
2021-04-26
2nd Flash
Tomahamhawk
6C+ Boulder at Alderaan
Struggled to pull out the flash after watching Roper smash this. Mini prow to the left of the hueco wall at Alderaan.
Alderaan 6c+ 2nd Flash
2021-04-26
2021-04-26
2nd Flash
Flooded
6A Boulder at Alderaan
Crack on left side of Hueco Wall at Alderaan
Alderaan 6a 2nd Flash
2021-04-26
2021-04-26
FA Red point
Anchor Buddy
7B+ Boulder at Alderaan
Lifer. Rockets to the top 10 list at the New. Pure and proud with the best movement. Huge thanks to Mitch for showing me this piece and Zak for the psych to come out here.
Alderaan 7b+ FA Red point
2021-04-23
2021-04-23
FA Red point
Far From Home
Incredibly narrow time window, somewhat self-inflicted, before work. This wall seeps and drips like the dickens but got a cool day with low humidity and had (mostly) dry holds. Chris and Alex randomly showed up (Chris made me poop my pants when he came around the corner as I was cleaning the topout), and of course they shared their skepticism and concern about me climbing this to to the top solo. Punted after traversing before the crack for the top, got pumped, wasn't sure I could repeat, got back there and scared myself from pump but pulled her out. Can't believe this sat undone. Low end 9, hard 8, somewhere in there. Hard hard to the right, long traverse pump fest starting to the left. Always more to be done. This one felt good.
Hawks Nest Parking Boulders 7c FA Red point
2021-04-19
2021-04-19
FA Red point
Tripwire
7B Boulder at Sweets Falls
Big powerful moves. Weird iron circle hold that crumbled when I pushed on it with the back of a brush, also doubtful this has been done before.
Sweets Falls 7b FA Red point
2021-04-19
2021-04-19
FA Red point
Sweets Falls, Unnamed 02
7A+ Boulder at Sweets Falls
Line that starts to the left of and climbs into Tripwire. Love the slaps.
Sweets Falls 7a+ FA Red point
2021-04-19
2021-04-19
FA Red point
Sweets Falls, Unnamed 03
7B+ Boulder at Sweets Falls
Line just next to the stairs at Sweets Falls. Love the heel toe, this ended up being easier than anticipated but powerful and cool. Cap to a great day.
Sweets Falls 7b+ FA Red point
2021-04-19
2021-04-19
FA Red point
Behind Enemy Lines
7B+ Boulder at Sweets Falls
1st I took down at Sweets Falls. Small but crucial crumbling of one of the underclings makes this unlikely to have been climbed before. Loving the rock down here, too bad it's sketchy to access.
Sweets Falls 7b+ FA Red point
2021-04-16
2021-04-16
Flash
Hominy, Unnamed 02
6B+ Boulder at Hominy
Lisa overcame her fears and pulled this one out of the bag! Great send by her. Fun line, to the left of the tree, small boulder on the way to the Fairy Tail block at Hominy.
Hominy 6b+ Flash
2021-04-12
2021-04-12
Red point
Hominy, Unnamed 01
7B+ Boulder at Hominy
Stand start to the line to the left of Happily Ever After. More of a place holder until I can finish the full rig, hopefully. Joey Gruss with the fa?
Hominy 7b+ Red point
2021-04-06
2021-04-06
Red point
Happily Ever After
7B+ Boulder at Hominy
Out-fucking-rageous. Fanning! Doesn't get much better than this. This and Sweet Subtleties are probably the best on the boulder.
Hominy 7b+ Red point
2021-04-03
2021-04-03
2nd Red point
Lox
3rd ascent I suppose but 2nd ascensionist. Marley pissed on this thing but felt hard with thin skin, probably entry v9 or high 8. First line I saw when I walked under this boulder when I visited.
Woods Ferry and Masons Branch Boulders 7c 2nd Red point
2021-04-03
2021-04-03
2nd Red point
Sockeye
Behind Kory. Might need to attend to the crimp. Fun line.
Woods Ferry and Masons Branch Boulders 7b 2nd Red point
2021-04-03
2021-04-03
Red point
Leftover Salmon
Had been waiting a long time to get on this boulder. 4 hours of landing work the day before and the climbable window for this gem is much larger.
Woods Ferry and Masons Branch Boulders 7a+ Red point
2021-04-03
2021-04-03
FA Red point
King Salmon
Brilliant, committing face climb that breaks off from Leftover Salmon up the face. Cox through the crux a couple years ago but didn't have a clean topout? Marley followed me although started mid roof. This one is mega
Woods Ferry and Masons Branch Boulders 7c FA Red point
2021-04-01
2021-04-01
FA Red point
Desert Dreams Extension
7C+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Beautiful. Near continuous lip from sitting to 12+ feet. 3 days, 3 full sessions. Possibly the longest I've taken on any major project to settle on beta, everything the 1st day felt about the same. -Nearly- had it sorted on day 2 but couldn't link the 1st two moves into the rest. Come April 1st, low 30s after a day of heavy rain and I managed to swing her after an early morning wake up call. Water levels slowly creeping up the side of the boulder, landing was under by the afternoon. Missed the video on the 1st send, felt heartbroken and managed to eek it out a 2nd time a couple goes later. Most thin my skin has been in a long time! Feels hard 10 or maybe 11, difficult to grade because obviously friction dependent (although maybe less so than slopers would suggest). Barely sent the 1st time around, still struggled on the last big move off the lip on the 2nd send too. Looking forward to repeat attempts on this one!
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7c+ FA Red point
2021-04-01
2021-04-01
FA Red point
Knights of Malta
7B+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
I knew this boulder would have the goods. Lovely that some of the large logs were moved out of the way with the temporary rise in water levels from the epic rain earlier in March. Definitely an FA, moved several rocks out from under the SDS. Techy left foot for the start! Small person friendly.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2021-03-27
2021-03-27
FA Red point
The Damned
Starts on the other side of the block of Tortured Souls, tosses toe hooks onto the mid start for Tortured and ends in the same spot as Tortured.
Tatooine and the Outer Rim 6c+ FA Red point
2021-03-27
2021-03-27
Red point
Hellfire
This thing is dank. Done by Goodman back in the past sometime. Cut down the stump around the corner to see if another problem will emerge.
Tatooine and the Outer Rim 7b+ Red point
2021-03-27
2021-03-27
Red point
Tortured Souls Low start
Fun mini-roof. Possible FA, snapped a hold. Short walk from the car!
Tatooine and the Outer Rim 7a+ Red point
2021-03-26
2021-03-26
FA Red point
Grits
7A+ Boulder at Hominy
Hominy Boulder. Just to the right of Amaizing, start on thin slots, big move up and left to the slopers on Amaizing, finish up Amaizing. Possible FA?
Hominy 7a+ FA Red point
2021-03-26
2021-03-26
Flash
Amaizing
6C+ Boulder at Hominy
Hominy boulder. Starts in a horizontal on the left side of the face towards the creek, trends up and right towards the shelf system. Jeremy did starting left hand one move in.
Hominy 6c+ Flash
2021-03-26
2021-03-26
Red point
Nixtamilization
6C+ Boulder at Hominy
Hominy Boulder. Crouch start on flat iron edges, powerful moves up to slopers, into easier climbing. Jeremy did this one as well!
Hominy 6c+ Red point
2021-03-26
2021-03-26
FA Red point
Snorkel Mask
7C Boulder at Hominy
Lake Finds boulder. left hand undercling in right hand start hold of Koozie, right hand on right facing sidepull. Trend up and right through pockets into Flipper. Hardest on the wall, likely FA. Took me a solid session to sort the moves then careful warm-up the next session and fired her first go from the start.
Hominy 7c FA Red point
2021-03-26
2021-03-26
Red point
Right Flipper
7A+ Boulder at Hominy
Lake Finds boulder. SDS on two opposing crimps, left is a slot, right is a thin iron edge just inside the sloper/arete feature. Probably the most consistent, sustained line up the boulder. Totally smoked at the end of the day for my first session on this block and couldn't swing it til day 2.
Hominy 7a+ Red point
2021-03-23
2021-03-23
Red point
Left Flip-Flop
7A+ Boulder at Hominy
Lake Finds boulder. Right hand on triangle pinch, left hand below, match on crimp rail and stand tall up and left to iron sidepull.
Hominy 7a+ Red point
2021-03-23
2021-03-23
Red point
Right Flip-Flop
7B Boulder at Hominy
Lake Finds boulder. Right hand on triangle pinch, left hand below, after a couple moves deadpoint into small slot with right hand and hop to the lip.
Hominy 7b Red point
2021-03-23
2021-03-23
Red point
Left Flipper
7A+ Boulder at Hominy
Lake Finds boulder. Start with right hand pinching best part of iron band, head into the arete/sloper feature. Sustained!
Hominy 7a+ Red point
2021-03-23
2021-03-23
Red point
Koozie
7A+ Boulder at Hominy
Lake Finds boulder. Starts high left hand, right hand paused in slot, cross big up over left hand, includes amazing gaston move. Probably my favorite on the wall! Possible FA. Modern name.
Hominy 7a+ Red point
2021-03-21
2021-03-21
FA Red point
A.L.O.T.T.
7B+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Holy shit this line is mega. Thanks to Kupferman for sticking around. Afternoon shade. A bit cursed but so worth. Wish I didn't fumble the footage, at least you can tell I climbed it. A Little off the Top.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2021-03-21
2021-03-21
FA Red point
Clear As Mud
7C Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Likely FA? The right side of the arete is so dirty! I think the current must cover it with mud. Early wake up call for acceptable temps down in the lake desert. Brilliant mini-rig.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7b+ (7c) FA Red point
2021-03-19
2021-03-19
Red point
Treasure Island
6A+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Maybe FA? All time favorite slab. So scary. x2 for good measure.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6a+ Red point
2021-03-19
2021-03-19
2nd Red point
Shallow Seas
6B+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Pretty good! Lisa with the FA. How do I know? Because it was blocked by rocks before today.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6b+ 2nd Red point
2021-03-19
2021-03-19
FA Red point
Run Aground
7A+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Not a great one. Rocks in the way before today, definite FA.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2021-03-07
2021-03-07
FA Red point
Rudder and Sails Extension
8A Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
The traverse in from the start of Davey Jones' Locker. Major disappointment when the water came up 55 that's FIFTY FIVE FEET in 3 days including dropping some large drift wood under this boulder. Thought my window of opportunity was snatched from me by the 2+ inches of rain and I'd have to wait til fall. I guess it gave me the boost I needed when they reneged and started to drop the water back down ... rolled out that door at 8a on a sunny but cold Sunday after a brutal 3 day work stretch, and STILL didn't beat the sun which popped around the trees around 0930, furthering my anxiety of quickly abating send conditions. A few goes, each slightly better than the previous, a punt and finally the send burn. Haven't fought this hard at the end of a line for a long time, thought I was going to drop every move. The grade is hard for me on this one, hard v8 into hard v8 but with 12 moves to the 15ish moves to the "jug" the power endurance factor seems to bump it a grade for me. Not a proud line but in the sweet spot of difficulty. Bashed the back of my thumb trying to pull my dragon off while standing on top post send. And, acquired a left radial collateral ligament injury ... worth it? 2.5 sessions of effort. Sent the middle start on 2/25/21: Barndori chicken. Sorted the sit moves but way too hot in the sun to attempt further. Gonna be hard to link!
Pirate's Cove Boulders 8a FA Red point
2021-03-07
2021-03-07
2nd Red point
Sweet Subtleties
7B+ Boulder at Hominy
Two crag day! The glory of Hominy begins. Best line on the best single boulder at the New? Time will tell.
Hominy 7b+ 2nd Red point
2021-03-01
2021-03-01
FA Red point
But Why Is the Rum Gone?
7B+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Start sitting matched on lovely hidden undercling a couple feet left of the horn start of 7 Seas/ High Seas. One move to perfect mildly incut right facing side pull then dunk the jug left hand above, top out as Seven Seas. My favorite contrivance on the boulder, just lovely holds.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2021-02-26
2021-02-26
Flash
Calico Jill
6B+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Lovely progression.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6b+ Flash
2021-02-25
2021-02-25
Flash
Indian Creek
6A+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
A grand thing. Scary step up on the slab at the top, wiped the spot clean for all 3 sends up here.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6a+ Flash
2021-02-25
2021-02-25
FA Red point
Moonbeam
7A+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Oh my goodness what a wonderful slab. The moon rose behind me during the send, a serene moment. This block and this cluster make me so so happy. Morphologic is the only detractor.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2021-02-25
2021-02-25
FA Red point
Whistlepig
7A+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Powerful roof. Broke some holds off this in the developing process (with my bare hands) and doubt this had been done before. Hard for the grade, a lot of tension.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2021-02-25
2021-02-25
FA Red point
Fox 40 Classic
7B Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Guessing this is an FA. Threlfal repeated just after me. Very specific sequence. Found the whistle just after.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7a+ (7b) FA Red point
2021-02-25
2021-02-25
FA Red point
Sail the Seven Seas SDS
7A+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Sorta a contrivance but is the mega mega line of this wonderful boulder. Did it from the horn 2 days earlier but felt a true sit was in order. Likely FA from this spot?
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2021-02-25
2021-02-25
FA Red point
Desert Dreams
7B Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Pulled out the piece from the start hold, possibly done before but obviously the FA with the now safer starting shelf. My favorite in the cluster so far, the lip is bliss.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7b FA Red point
2021-02-23
2021-02-23
2nd Red point
Land Ahoy!
6B+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Tricky and fun!
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6b+ 2nd Red point
2021-02-23
2021-02-23
Flash
Pieces of Eight
6A Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
The knee just happened.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6a Flash
2021-02-23
2021-02-23
Flash
Drunken Sailor
6A+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6a+ Flash
2021-02-23
2021-02-23
Red point
The High Seas
6A+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
And so begins a new revelation of bouldering at Pirate's Cove.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6a+ Red point
2021-02-23
2021-02-23
Red point
The Seven Seas
6B+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Me likey these holds.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6b+ Red point
2021-02-23
2021-02-23
Red point
The Worst Pirate I've Ever Heard Of
6C+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Turd nugget.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6c+ Red point
2021-02-23
2021-02-23
Flash
Davy Jones' Locker
7B Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Such a good rock climb, no way this wasn't climbed before.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7a+ (7b) Flash
2021-02-23
2021-02-23
FA Red point
Rufio
7A+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
1-2 with Amanda Smith.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2021-02-23
2021-02-23
FA Red point
Tick-Tock
7A+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
1-2 With Amanda Smith
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2021-02-23
2021-02-23
FA Red point
Argh It's Driving Me Nuts
7B Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Likely FA. A contrivance but allows you to use two amazing holds.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7b FA Red point
2021-02-21
2021-02-21
Flash
Seamstress
6A+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
This wall makes me happy. Start on good sidepull/underclings, climb straight up to good rail below the lip followed by a legit mantle.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6b+ (6a+) Flash
2021-02-21
2021-02-21
Red point
Cross-Stitch
6C+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
My favorite of the boulder so far. Climbs from the sit of Knitting rightward to Seamstress.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6c+ Red point
2021-02-21
2021-02-21
2nd Red point
Aquatic Wasp
7B Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Likely 2nd ascent. Funky toe beta around the left. Novelty but worthy.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 7b 2nd Red point
2021-02-21
2021-02-21
Red point
Dragonfly
6C+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Mini arete to left of Jame's line. Awkward, 0 stars.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6c+ Red point
2021-02-21
2021-02-21
Red point
Knitting
6A+ Boulder at Pirate's Cove Boulders
Sit start low on crescent incut or right hand on undercling on the same feature, climb straight up to hard-ish slap to the lip.
Pirate's Cove Boulders 6c+ (6a+) Red point
2021-02-20
2021-02-20
FA Flash
Tusken Raider
Rapped off without weighting any of the holds then swooped the flash. Another grand moderate ... the pinch makes we swoon. More Hoth conditions today than Tatooine but we got it done! New toys to melt boulders.
Tatooine and the Outer Rim 7a+ FA Flash
2021-02-20
2021-02-20
FA Red point
Bantha Poodoo
Epic on this one. Took a long time to sort the beta on day one, then pumped out post crux x2. Came back, fired her 1st go only for Caleb to break off the crux foot. Took several more goes to repeat with the inferior, slightly closer foot -- if this one breaks the problem might be done for. Harder than anticipated!
Tatooine and the Outer Rim 7c FA Red point
2021-02-17
2021-02-17
FA Red point
Krayt Dragon
And here I was nervous the boulders would be wet and instead enjoyed a brilliant sunshine day with a shirtless send in the middle of two nasty winter storms. I think the footwork is the crux.
Tatooine and the Outer Rim 7c+ FA Red point
2021-02-17
2021-02-17
FA Flash
Dragon Pearl
Climbs the rail feature starting just left of Krayt Dragon. Lots broke and crumbled, gotta be an FA
Tatooine and the Outer Rim 6c+ FA Flash
2021-02-17
2021-02-17
FA Red point
Pod Racing
Arete to your right when you're standing looking at Utinni, except you do one move, grab an undercling off the heel and walk up the slab. Arete is way weirder, harder and less exciting than it looks :-(
Tatooine and the Outer Rim 6a FA Red point
2021-02-08
2021-02-08
2nd Red point
Straight Outa 'Bama
7B Boulder at New River Boulders
Guessing this hasn't been done before. Seems like an HP40 classic. Brilliant Rock. Chill the go before me.
New River Boulders 7b 2nd Red point
2021-02-08
2021-02-08
FA Red point
Gettin' Twiggy With It
7A+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Oh damn this rig is amazing. The finest slopers the New has to offer. Can't believe I'm just now climbing this ... possible FA although that seems absurd, will have to ask around. Chill with the 2nd. Didn't do the undercling variation yet. Half grade easier than 'Bama.
Blue Hole Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2021-01-30
2021-01-30
Red point
Figurehead
And so begins a new era of bouldering in the lake bed. The future is bright. Flake may bust, repeated without, excellent with both betas
Tatooine and the Outer Rim 6a+ Red point
2021-01-30
2021-01-30
FA Flash
Utinni!
Possible FA. Utinni = wow in Jawa. Lets get wrecked
Tatooine and the Outer Rim 6b+ FA Flash
2021-01-23
2021-01-23
2nd Red point
The Dance
7B+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Spectacular! Best/hardest slab I've climbed to date at the New. 7 to 8 range, will give a point for the commitment into standing on the shit foot for the crux. So many more lines at Blue Hole I had missed! Gotta do a moderate day soon soon.
Blue Hole Boulders 7b+ 2nd Red point
2021-01-12
2021-01-12
FA Red point
Lord of Chaos SDS
8A Boulder at Fern Creek Boulders
YES! Roper had tried the bottom moves yearsssss ago but I dismissed it at the time as both silly and too hard. Since then, it lingered as a side note in the back of my mind, as the original has always been my all time favorite boulder. Half the holds seem to be facing the wrong direction, on an at-first-glance impossibly steep angle, yet the trickery makes it work. It never seemed to be the right time: how long does the slot take to stop seeping? When am I up for the hike? Am I in good enough shape? Pads? Came out with Kory, Jeremy x2 and Chill but only had enough energy to suss the rad bottom sequence. While not a tight weather window in general, was my last day off before a string of nights that would end in more precipitation. So. Fucking. Good. It now feels complete and is unquestionably my all time favorite with a proper sit start, incredible sequence all by itself and a brilliant block. I abhor slash grades but probably is legit 10/11, will give it 8A until someone gives it the downgrade ;-) Send of the original on 2015-5-3: This problem is outstanding. Fantastic movement with crazy double toe-cam drop knees, amazing holds, immaculate stone and the only line on the boulder in a beautiful setting. Props to Roper on a stellar FA. The sit moves obviously go and will add some pump factor. Somewhere in the hard 9 soft 10 range. Gotta find the names of the problem in the corridor and the white face lines!
Fern Creek Boulders 8a FA Red point
2021-01-11
2021-01-11
2nd Red point
Off the Hook
7B Boulder at Fern Creek Boulders
The unexpected continues. Had glanced at this face nearly every time I've been up here, figured the v2 face wasn't worth the funk landing and had likely already been climbed. Kory asked about it today prompting me to go peek my head under the back of the roof, only to find a magical mini-flake hold that makes the whole problem work. Had to rearrange a few rocks under the start to pretend I leveled out the landing, then called Chill and Rush over for some pads ... only to to get swiped! A worthy addition to Fern Creek. Please nobody break their neck. Hard 7? Powerful move to release the feet from the toe hooks.
Fern Creek Boulders 7b 2nd Red point
2021-01-10
2021-01-10
Red point
Bossy Bottom
7B Boulder at Fern Creek Boulders
Shorty to the right of F5. Ended up being a tricky little sequence and better than I anticipated. Felt hard.
Fern Creek Boulders 7b Red point
2021-01-08
2021-01-08
FA Red point
Save the Trees
7B Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
Far better than expected, little mini compression rig. Murder the Rhodos but save the trees :-) Hopefully our transplant will survive! My excitement for the roof line cannot be contained. Sandbag this.
Aaron's House Boulders 7b FA Red point
2021-01-05
2021-01-05
2nd Red point
Under the Radar
8A Boulder at Fern Creek Boulders
Whooo! 4 full days of work on this baddy. 1st day sorted the moves half on a rope, 2nd day refined some foot beta and climbed it in 2 overlapping pieces but fell a couple times going for the far right crimp, 3rd day was a known gamble without enough time to recover from day 2 and sure enough ran out of skin and energy after my 1st go as a high point. A long work stretch and frustrating weather (holy hell it's been so much snow and rain) kept me from revisiting for about 2 weeks, and barely sneaking it in the weather window with the rain having already soaked the top out as I was sending. Feels like solid V11 for me, I could not manage the original beta, I think mostly because of reach, and had to figure a completely new, wacked sequence with a GIANT cross over mid climb. 5 star climbing but a 1 star line due to it being a contrivance off F5. I think the morpho plays heavy here although would love to see some other folks try it out, unlikely given it's impure nature. Still worthy for me needs!
Fern Creek Boulders 8a 2nd Red point
2020-12-23
2020-12-23
Red point
Creme Bruladies
7B+ Boulder at Fern Creek Boulders
Tick tack crimps, looks better than it climbs. Major fail on Under the Radar, but will come back with more skin and fresher! At least one off my list. Felt all 8 points at the end of the day with very thin skin.
Fern Creek Boulders 7b+ Red point
2020-12-09
2020-12-09
FA Red point
Lateral Collateral
7C+ Boulder at New River Boulders
Scouted this a few years back but never wanted to commit to the long walk, not knowing how quickly this dries, what conditions I'd need or how hard it was. Finally pulled the trigger! Had a horrible punt 4 days ago off the ledge with the topout dirty, with an awkward fall. Messed up my knee and couldn't sleep due to the pain that night, thinking I was out for quite a while -- but miracles happen and 2 days later it felt substantially better. Was still a risk going out today with the snow melting, and sure enough water was dripping down the boulder but conveniently between the holds, nothing I used was even the least bit damp. My punt ends up to have been for the best, as I popped off the crucial left foot while warming up. Now maybe 1/4 to 1/2 grade harder. Powerful roof moves leads to a compression mid section with delicate finish. Full value, only detractor is the choss rock at the bottom. Some more mega lines in this cluster that need (more) love! Felt just a bit easier that Scuttle, definitely harder than Golden. Will be back with some heavy equipment!
New River Boulders 7c+ FA Red point
2020-12-03
2020-12-03
FA Red point
Speedcuber
7C Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Had eyed this face every time I walked past the boulder but never had the vision to try any of the lines until this past year. While the aesthetics fall a bit shy of the Algorithmic face, the climbing is still amazing. One of the longest single day onslaughts of a boulder to date, about 6 hours from start of landing smoothing and topout scrubbing to the send. 3 hours with bad beta, first I unlocked the crux sequence thanks to my newly acquired ascender, then realized I was doing 2 extra hand movements at the bottom. Was quite tired by the time of the send and had destroyed my skin! I think V9 although difficult for me to grade given hours of both bad beta but also of wiring some of the moves. Definitely needs more love!
Blue Hole Boulders 7c FA Red point
2020-11-29
2020-11-29
FA Red point
Just a Feeling
7B+ Boulder at Summersville Dam Boulders
Line to the left around the corner from Hideaway. Had looked at this thing several times and always underwhelmed, although often wet and that gross loose block down at that start. Was 95% dry today and decided it was time to rip off the loose choss hold and make her happen. Thought she would be harder on previous scouts but the feet are just too good. I think FA? Would be a 3+*** line except that there are a couple perma-sand holds, it stays wet most of the time and the topout is weird with the tree and rhodos. Left the rhodos over the topout -- you can get in a stance then just grab the tree and sit in the notch while you contemplate your existence. Named from lyrics off the Kiesza song "Hideaway". Max with a quick 3rd day on send of Hideaway! Was sufficiently climb-able on the 4th dry day after a solid rain.
Summersville Dam Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2020-11-27
2020-11-27
2nd Red point
Ripping Stitches
7B+ Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
Majorly committing, giant move just high enough off the deck to make me second guess myself before yarding. 4 tries? Probably 7/8 range, can't blame Mercer for jumping with low feet which would feel safer than jacking the high left, although the high left seems like the easier method. Thank goodness for the chill top. Damned is Bitches and wrecking my shoulder! 2nd ascent? Max with the repeat a couple goes after me!
Short Creek Boulders 7b+ 2nd Red point
2020-11-24
2020-11-24
FA Red point
Scuttlebutt
8A Boulder at Cotton Top Boulders
The heavy hitters keep on coming. Another insane rig just sitting there asking for love. Eric Jerome let me know of it's existence and takes credit for the fun name. Heady solo, but made it that much more full value. Some absurdly fine rock, a couple small feet that look like they want to explode but despite my best efforts will not. Feels like a single v8/9 move into another solid v9. Soft 11? Perhaps more my style than any hard boulder to date at the New. Triple tape over the right pointer for that wicked point. Too bad I ripped off the hold to the problem around to the right. Holy shit Power Stretcher is hard.
Cotton Top Boulders 8a FA Red point
2020-11-17
2020-11-17
2nd Red point
Golden Gun
7C Boulder at South Side Boulders
WOW. 4 star + line. Can't believe this was tucked in the rhodo's all this time. Gorgeous boulder, quality moves with an awesome progression. Some epic construction work on this to make it full value. Kinda 1st, added in the 2 extra moves from the obvious good starting slot far to the right. Suspect this will settle at harder 9 in line with Old Bae, the low to Season's Change, Something Matters, etc. Nice job Cox!
South Side Boulders 7c 2nd Red point
2020-11-17
2020-11-17
Red point
Machine Gun Etiquette
7B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Spent 30 minutes flipping the rocks out of the way underneath the obvious bottom of the problem and adds 3 worthy hand movements and makes the line full, definitely not a contrivance and no tools needed to make this one happen. Now feels solid for/higher end 8 and that much more mega! Original send on 9/12/20: Blew the flash pushing myself into standing from the arete at the end. F! Quite a good boulder! Entry level?
South Side Boulders 7b+ Red point
2020-11-09
2020-11-09
2nd Red point
6 Feet Apart
7B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Took me about 30 minutes to figure out the beta for the 1st move then sent a few goes later. Might be easier now that the beta was unlocked for shorter folk, I wasn't able to span the reach Josh Mowrer did (by like 5 inches?). Stand is called "Social Distancing" -.-
South Side Boulders 7b+ 2nd Red point
2020-11-09
2020-11-09
2nd Red point
Meadow River, Unnamed 05
7A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Just to the right of 6 Feet Apart. Roper with the FA, me with the 2nd just after. Mega.
South Side Boulders 7a+ 2nd Red point
2020-11-06
2020-11-06
Red point
Flight of the Defibrillator
7C Boulder at Meadow Top Boulders
30 minutes, 2nd go from the start after quickly figuring the beta. Some mega stretched out foot walking. That crimp seems like it's gonna blow. Yokohoma?
Meadow Top Boulders 7c Red point
2020-10-28
2020-10-28
Red point
Campus Problem
6C+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Finally did this thing. Think I hung on some holds in the past so can't take the flash. Condensed day. End of the Rainbowwwww
South Side Boulders 6c+ Red point
2020-10-21
2020-10-21
FA Red point
Dark Incantation (left exit)
7C Boulder at South Side Boulders
FUNK. Huge move off the start leads to good holds out the roof into a bizarre sequence on progressively worse holds. A GIANT boulder with so much more potential.
South Side Boulders 7c FA Red point
2020-10-21
2020-10-21
2nd Red point
Dark Incantation (right exit)
7B Boulder at South Side Boulders
FA Cox earlier this fall, busts out the roof then a couple moves traversing right into the v2 top using the solid chock stone.
South Side Boulders 7b 2nd Red point
2020-10-21
2020-10-21
Flash
Meadow River, Unnamed 06
6B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Same start holds (basically) as Dark incantation but climbs up and to the right. Great easier line!
South Side Boulders 6b+ Flash
2020-10-19
2020-10-19
FA Red point
Book of Shadows
7C+ Boulder at New River Gorge
Fuck. This boulder is something else: about 25 hand movements until I'm established on the face ... on a free standing boulder in the middle of the river. A bit cursed but doesn't detract. V8/9 leads into a long, pumpy v7+, feels low end 10 mostly because of the pump factor. 2 days, worked on the moves with Chill then made a solo push with a 2 pad carry adventure. So close on the other roof!
New River Gorge 7c+ FA Red point
2020-10-17
2020-10-17
2nd Red point
Substation, Unnamed 04
7A+ Boulder at New River Gorge
Boulder about 100 yards up the hill from Beauty Mountain Beat Down cluster. Flakey face around left. Likely FA by Kory today given what broke off.
New River Gorge 7a+ 2nd Red point
2020-10-17
2020-10-17
Red point
Substation, Unnamed 03
7A+ Boulder at New River Gorge
Boulder about 100 yards up the hill from Beauty Mountain Beat Down cluster. Starts on big flat shelf on main face and trends left. Matt Jones then Eric Cox then me. Likely FA today.
New River Gorge 7a+ Red point
2020-10-17
2020-10-17
Flash
Substation, Unnamed 02
6C+ Boulder at New River Gorge
Boulder about 100 yards up the hill from Beauty Mountain Beat Down cluster. Starts in hole on right of main face of boulder, trends slightly left and up. Matt Jones climbed it 1st of us today, could be an FA?
New River Gorge 6c+ Flash
2020-10-17
2020-10-17
FA Red point
Andromeda Extension
7C Boulder at New River Gorge
Didn't realize another line named Andromeda here at the New. Started on flat shelf on the corner. Stupid cross match 2 finger crimp on the hold above the original start. Dropped off from hands about 14 feet. Cool holds, funk ass sequen
New River Gorge 7c FA Red point
2020-10-08
2020-10-08
FA Red point
Something Wicked
7B Boulder at New River Gorge
Cool rail feature. Lotsa weight on the arms. Followed immediately thereafter by Chill for Co-FA. This cluster is mega mega
New River Gorge 7b FA Red point
2020-10-03
2020-10-03
Flash
Arete of Paladin
6C+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Heady move at the top! Brilliant. Need to do the slab to the right.
South Side Boulders 6c+ Flash
2020-10-01
2020-10-01
Red point
Thor
7B Boulder at Meadow Top Boulders
Giving this the upgrade, feels hard for 7. Project on the cliff's edge will go?
Meadow Top Boulders 7b+ (7b) Red point
2020-10-01
2020-10-01
Red point
Odin
7C Boulder at Meadow Top Boulders
Extra star for really cool rock. Feels similar to Thor, less powerful but more pump. Don't think it's a 9.
Meadow Top Boulders 7b+ (7c) Red point
2020-09-30
2020-09-30
Flash
Super Happy Fun Ball
6B Boulder at Burnwood Boulders
Amazing sloper. Harder than 3. I did use the foot for bag of pinches before the go on this, I think I'll take that as a flash still.
Burnwood Boulders 6b+ (6b) Flash
2020-09-30
2020-09-30
Red point
When Kermit Goes Green
7B+ Boulder at Burnwood Boulders
3 total goes, 2 from the start. Probably v8. Could add a low climbing in from the left although you'd have to drag your ass over the rock wall.
Burnwood Boulders 7b+ Red point
2020-09-30
2020-09-30
Flash
Little Bag of Pinches
7A+ Boulder at Burnwood Boulders
Probs not a 6. Also did the V3 to its right, need to log.
Burnwood Boulders 6c+ (7a+) Flash
2020-09-18
2020-09-18
Flash
Meadow River, Unnamed 04
6A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Hueco problem on slab side of the boulder before Machine Gun Etiquette. Lisa and I cleaned up this boulder ... line to the left probably will climb to the arete.
South Side Boulders 6a+ Flash
2020-09-12
2020-09-12
Red point
Hand Gun Ethics
7B Boulder at South Side Boulders
Amazed no one cleaned up this line, climbs from the obvious jug on right side of Machine Gun Ethics roof, traverses the lip leftwards into the end of Machine Gun. Cox with the 2nd. Cool ripples of iron patina to make the holds on the lip!
South Side Boulders 7b Red point
2020-09-12
2020-09-12
Flash
Meadow River, Unnamed 03
7A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Gotta stand up TALL. Definitely morpho. Left side of the swoop boulder (to the left of promotion).
South Side Boulders 7a+ Flash
2020-09-12
2020-09-12
FA Red point
Target of Interest
7C Boulder at South Side Boulders
Between the swoop proj and the arete, started on a funky pocket for the right and left incut just besides, didn't bother with the couple moves below (felt slightly incomplete). Michael was close! The swoop is the mega ...
South Side Boulders 7c FA Red point
2020-09-10
2020-09-10
Flash
Meadow River, Unnamed 02
6B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Diagonal slash/slot on the right of the face next to the water on the 1st mega boulder at Orange Wall. Humid AF this day, will need to go back for ALL the projects on this boulder!
South Side Boulders 6b+ Flash
2020-09-06
2020-09-06
2nd Flash
One and One
6C+ Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
Beautiful boulder with an unusual double mantle. Unfortunately the 1st move is a bit scrunch and cruxy. Kinda Co-FA with Brandon. Great crew today with Brandon, John, Shaun, Lisa, Jamey!
Aaron's House Boulders 6c+ 2nd Flash
2020-08-11
2020-08-11
Red point
Foxy Lady 
7B+ Boulder at Tahoe - Kingsbury
Got out by 630 but didn't realize the sun lights this up the second it rises, did get a smidge of relief from clouds. Warm. 2x for good measure. Couldn't get my ass off the ground for Little Wing, probably need it to be 20+ degrees colder and not baking. End to a great 3 weeks in Tahoe, we'll see what Colorado holds!
Tahoe - Kingsbury 7b+ Red point
2020-08-09
2020-08-09
Red point
Electric Chair
7C+ Boulder at Lake Tahoe CA
445a wake-up call, made it to the boulders by just after 8a (after getting lost), still nice and shady. Quickly sussed out the moves and linked on 2nd try from the start after a whiff on the 1st move. Lower end 10 I think. Great setting, great boulder, although not a fan of the hollow crimp plate.
Lake Tahoe CA 7c+ Red point
2020-08-09
2020-08-09
Red point
Immaculate Conception
7B Boulder at Lake Tahoe CA
Techy intro with lovely deadpoint to snatch the high crimp. Better than double or nubbin by a mile. Only major detractor is the hollow crimps.
Lake Tahoe CA 7b Red point
2020-08-09
2020-08-09
Flash
Supernormal
6A+ Boulder at Lake Tahoe CA
Brilliant boulder. GPS showed 9 miles of hiking for the day?!?!
Lake Tahoe CA 6a+ Flash
2020-08-09
2020-08-09
Flash
Double or Nubbin
7A+ Boulder at Lake Tahoe CA
A novelty on the wall with a bunch of other problems, grabbing an uncomfortable nipple hold. I could make a case for 2 stars ... underwhelmed.
Lake Tahoe CA 7a+ Flash
2020-08-09
2020-08-09
Red point
Sesh Carter Low v8
7B+ Boulder at Lake Tahoe CA
Beautiful prow. If only the left hand incut wasn't the sharpest hold in existence, prophylactically taped most of my left hand. Wasted lots of skin and energy on the Sesh Harder boulder on the 2 move v8 ...
Lake Tahoe CA 7b+ Red point
2020-08-09
2020-08-09
Flash
Bonus Five
6C+ Boulder at Lake Tahoe CA
Great crimps. Tall and proud, obvious line, really quite quality. Probably should have a sit start from the obvious crimps down and right.
Lake Tahoe CA 6c+ Flash
2020-08-08
2020-08-08
Flash
Grand Design
7A+ Boulder at Lake Tahoe CA
Techy. Solid. Star ratings and directions for this area are wack. BRILLIANT sunset. Such an other-worldly environment on the granite slabs.
Lake Tahoe CA 7a+ Flash
2020-08-06
2020-08-06
Red point
Tequila Sunset
7C Boulder at Summit Lake
Middle of the grade with good beta, not the tall-stretched-out-sauce that I saw videos of online. Got scared but it was grand. Great flow, crazy thin boulder.
Summit Lake 7c Red point
2020-08-06
2020-08-06
Red point
Nitwit
7A+ Boulder at Summit Lake
1st go. Not a flash since I did Sunset already. Techy more so than truly difficult.
Summit Lake 7a+ Red point
2020-08-06
2020-08-06
Flash
Summit Arete
6B+ Boulder at Summit Lake
MEGA. Brilliant line, looks especially spectacular from down below. Feels WAY exposed mantling over the lip.
Summit Lake 6b+ Flash
2020-08-06
2020-08-06
Red point
Lying in Weight
7C Boulder at Summit Lake
Would have flashed but was told to start with hands at equal height, left on start on, right on intermediate crimp instead of down on the undercling. Had to come back later after it had baked in the sun and was MUCH hotter, a few goes from there. Jacked my left foot WAY up there.
Summit Lake 7c Red point
2020-08-06
2020-08-06
Red point
Kyle's Shlef Sit
7B+ Boulder at Summit Lake
Gonna keep the guidebook typo name. Ended up requiring very exact climbing to allow me to make the reach to the slot. Solid.
Summit Lake 7b+ Red point
2020-08-06
2020-08-06
Red point
Dave's Roof
7A+ Boulder at Summit Lake
First go, no flash since I did Kyle's Shlef already. Great problem.
Summit Lake 7a+ Red point
2020-08-06
2020-08-06
Flash
Purple Sticky Punch
6C+ Boulder at Summit Lake
Cool, but not that cool. Felt hard at the end of a 12 hour climbing day. Awkward start to jugs to skin-removing slopers. Capped off a cray day with guidebook 4,5,6,7,8,9,10. Thanks Mike and Nick (and Alvie)!
Summit Lake 6c+ Flash
2020-08-02
2020-08-02
Red point
Katana
7B Boulder at Lake Tahoe CA
Did after Secret Weapon, 1st go. Almost blew it at the lip, had to try hard.
Lake Tahoe CA 7b Red point
2020-08-02
2020-08-02
Red point
Secret Weapon 
8A Boulder at South Lake Tahoe
2nd day without too many punts, no epic'ing. Couldn't do the cross over on the underling, made up some heel scum beta instead. Thanks David for getting up so early! 4:30a wake-up calls making it happen.
South Lake Tahoe 7c+ (8a) Red point
2020-07-31
2020-07-31
Red point
Welcome to the Future
8A+ Boulder at Tahoe - Erratica
3 full sessions to put this amazing phallic block down. 1st was 2 days after arrival at elevation, did all the moves but not very close. 2nd day with a full value 3.5 hour session, refined the heel hook beta around the right side but not until it was too late for a send. Also with a legit punt, left hand up on the lip but couldn't keep the tension on the left heel. 3rd session I felt WAY better warming up, repeated the moves in 30 minutes and hit the last right hand a few times but couldn't hold it. Queue further beta sussing to find I was holding the last right hand too far back ... another punt whiffing it after bringing up the left hand. Psyched to send but extraordinarily frustrated with my poorly managed process on the 3rd day, feeling amazing but still not having the beta dialed, prolonging my efforts and hampering those later on Secret Weapon. Always a learning process; this was certainly an uphill battle. Likely entry level for the grade if not a 10, felt maybe even easier than Bubba Lotep when I finally had it on lock.
Tahoe - Erratica 8a (8a+) Red point
2020-07-23
2020-07-23
Flash
Rolling Thunder
7B+ Boulder at Lake Tahoe CA
Nice moves but dabby AF, not worthy of the 3 stars the guide gives, likely nor the 8 points.
Lake Tahoe CA 7b (7b+) Flash
2020-07-23
2020-07-23
Red point
Private Idaho
6B+ Boulder at Lake Tahoe CA
Neat climb with awkward start that has a heavy star detractor from the endlessly exfoliating rock.
Lake Tahoe CA 6b+ Red point
2020-07-23
2020-07-23
Flash
Deadwood
6C+ Boulder at Lake Tahoe CA
Contrived ... and I used the large ledge for my left foot although stayed on the (sketchy) flakes going up. Mehhhhh.
Lake Tahoe CA 6c+ Flash
2020-05-31
2020-05-31
FA Red point
Are We There Yet Arete
7B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Stumbled on this impressive block while searching for the Mud Hueco wall. Ends up it's an quick scurry up behind the Pebble. An easier entrance leads to delicate footwork requiring solid body tension with a constant fight for the barndoor. Will have to come back with cold temps for the tiny crimps to the right!
South Side Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2020-05-30
2020-05-30
Red point
TMS
7C Boulder at 41 Boulders
Getting warm! Perhaps a bit contrived but nobody wants to clean up the monster lichen.
41 Boulders 7c Red point
2020-05-09
2020-05-09
2nd Red point
Loaded Biscuit
8A Boulder at Wolf Creek Boulders
Had eyed this up for years, especially after McNeil got the FA in Nov 2017. A couple days of work in the fall/early winter were enough for me to suss most of the beta but didn't feel at all close. After building up power endurance through the last couple of months I felt potentially ready. On day 3, a heartbreaking punt left me with a split tip and small flapper, no energy for further attempts. The weather this season has been inSANE and another perfect weather day presented itself the 2nd week of May. Another couple falls on the crux move and I switched the beta utilizing the left toe and knee scum into a left heel, polishing her off the following attempt. 4 days total. With the toe and knee scum this felt hard V11, with the heel hook a bit easier, probably mid range, slightly easier than Dad Bod. This and Woodsdawg (aka Deep Fried) are outrageous -- two world class lines sitting alone, tucked side by side randomly in the woods. The topper to my best spring season, although at the cost of at least 1 finger injury (not from this problem specifically).
Wolf Creek Boulders 8a 2nd Red point
2020-04-18
2020-04-18
2nd Red point
Guerrilla Warfare
7C Boulder at Redbird
This bloc is INSANE (especially for KY). Great find by Sandmann, and so so SO appreciate him sharing these gems with me. From the low-low, the FA from this spot, although only adds 2 moves into the original. Used quite different beta than Sandmann, some unusual drop-down moves to set up for heading left. I'm climbing well right now, but seems like upper end V9? Certainly coulda been 10 with the original beta.
Redbird 7c 2nd Red point
2020-04-18
2020-04-18
FA Red point
Hit-and-Run
7C Boulder at Redbird
Full value. Same start as Guerrilla, but bust right after the 4th move and climb alllllll the way up the prow. A definite mega line. 20 moves to the jug?! Good thing I'm in power endurance shape. 1st go after figuring out the individual moves, glad I didn't punt on the last crimp seem horizontal. At least a hard hard 9, could be 10 although the difficult moves are at the beginning and the rest is all pump.
Redbird 7c FA Red point
2020-04-15
2020-04-15
Red point
Bubba Lowtep
8A Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
I was highly skeptical of this one when Marley first told me about it. Certainly not the obvious start to Hotep, and am not a fan of pockets in general. Tried the moves for about 1.5 hours a month or so ago on a rainy day after failing on the crux move of Abu. Enjoyed the moves more than expected. The first move is ass-draggy, but the 2nd and transition into the original is awesomely powerful and body tension dependent -- satisfying to climb. Beautiful snow the night before peaked our interest in roofs (although the snow melted and lots was probably climbable). Another beautiful day under this cave. Lisa with a quick send of Ruth's roof, left me to this beast. Had a semi-punt on the iron cross move, then couldn't make it back there. The 1st move was low percentage until by accident my right foot pressed an edge underneath. Once I realized this right foot beta the 1st move became WAY easier and gave me hope. I still had no real expectations of sending on the last hour of the trip, but rested for one last go (had to leave at 6p) and somehow scraped my way to the end. Almost dropped the exit after the iron cross. Feels similar but maybe one notch easier than the Ark, more overall power but less fingery. 11.1 perhaps? 1 grade harder than original. This trip was my most productive ever. The stars seemed to have aligned for once, excellent conditions at the New (although still lots of rain/snow but drying quickly) with cool temps for April, healthy skin, healthy fingers, at the right point in my un-regimented training cycle. Good strategy still let me finish up climbs despite several punts. This fall is gonna be LIT.
Short Creek Boulders 8a Red point
2020-04-14
2020-04-14
Red point
The Ark
What a line. Perfect rock, amazing crimps, clear sit start, amazing progression of moves that increase in difficulty with each move until a definitive, but not too anomalously hard crux, wih one further hard move, then solid mantle topout. Going to jump into my top 10 list at the New. Marley locked her in, had the vision for the solid (and obvious in retrospect) sit-start. Tried this within my first few years out at the New but could not do the crux move. Never even felt close. Was able to nail it within a few tries the same day I finished Rose Water, but had a heartbreaking punt, sticking the crux but not able to match after. Came back in essentially perfect conditions (mid 40s, post-rain) and nailed it 2nd try from the start. Third ascent? Hodder seems to have sent from 3 relatively easy moves in, wouldn't discredit since he still thought it was a project. I couldn't do the crux move in isolation back several years ago when I was climbing solid 10, although did go relatively quick this year. I think this was more reflective of the stars aligning than the grade, likely lower end 11 but not entry -- say 11.2 or .3. Worked a bit on the contrivance right variation, close-ish to the crux move but never stuck it despite feeling perfectly warmed up and excellent conditions. Likely solid v12 that way, although again a contrivance. Variation could be the hardest line on the boulder.
Summersville Dam Boulders 8a Red point
2020-04-12
2020-04-12
2nd Red point
Rose Water
7C+ Boulder at Summersville Dam Boulders
2nd? Real good. Never even envisioned this line when working on The Ark (when it was a project). Seems to fit my 5'10'' wingspan just right, maybe a smidge extra height would help but too much and the match on the horizontal will be harder, too little and making the spans is gonna be a mega-difficult (or impossible). 1st day on it was in the 60s and boulder was condensing, 2nd go from start on day 2. Mega-punt on The Ark, but holy shit is it good. Great vision Marley!
Summersville Dam Boulders 7c+ 2nd Red point
2020-04-10
2020-04-10
Red point
Dad Bod
8A Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
4th ascent (after Woods, Southward, Whitfield)? A worthy, full-value alternate exit to MOM and don't mind spending days at this boulder. Hard for me, guessing solid, power-endurance V11. V9 entry to the "jug" on MOM followed by 6 or 7 move V9 exit crux. Possibly the hardest moves on slopers I've done to date although similar in difficulty to Hideaway. My 5th day on this this season, 3rd full fledged effort day. Was here about a week before the send when it was low 60s and couldn't do that sloper moves by themselves, the most friction dependent boulder I've experienced yet at the New. Still had a solid punt the go before, matching the lip and running out of beta and juice, thought I may not have enough energy to make it back up there. Surprised I can hold those slopes with feet cutting. Means a lot to me, was uncertain I would ever have the power-endurance to line this one up, opens the door to other similarly difficult lines. Lisa with the encouragement!
Fern Point Boulders 8a Red point
2020-04-02
2020-04-02
FA Red point
High Flow
7B+ Boulder at Redbird
Great roof climb. Rock looks chossy but is really quite good. Thanks for all the directions/locations beta Steve!!
Redbird 7b+ FA Red point
2020-04-02
2020-04-02
2nd Flash
Straight Out of Wuhan
6C+ Boulder at Redbird
Roof is sick.
Redbird 6c+ 2nd Flash
2020-04-02
2020-04-02
2nd Red point
Stay Home
7A+ Boulder at Redbird
1st go, but had already climbed "Straight Out of Wuhan" before it. Like the original a bit better.
Redbird 7a+ 2nd Red point
2020-04-02
2020-04-02
FA Red point
Prone
7B Boulder at Redbird
Solid crimp line. Couldn't do the lock off 1st move with the heel but went quick with the toe. Upper end?
Redbird 7b FA Red point
2020-04-02
2020-04-02
FA Red point
Cannulation
7B Boulder at Redbird
1st move the same as "Stay Home", match, climb left into "Prone". Low end 7? First go for the variation but I'd done all but the middle moves before by way of the neighboring lines.
Redbird 7b FA Red point
2020-03-22
2020-03-22
Red point
Season's Change, Low Left
7C Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
Consolation prize today with still not being able to latch the 1st move on Angel Eye. Punted once after the big move. Feeling strong on power endurance lines still. Few more to pull out before the end of this season? Still need to do the variation from Father Figure start! Original Ascent (before the break) on 2017-10-1: Felt reasonable in reasonable temps, fun 1 mover with a heady but not difficult topout. That block better not cut loose. Felt V9, although lots of tries in horrible conditions.
Needleseye Boulders 7c Red point
2020-03-18
2020-03-18
Red point
Father Figure
7C+ Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
Finally built up the power endurance to pull this off, took me more days for the grade than just about anything for a long time, although 10 is fair. 6 hours of dragging the hunk of rock from beneath this line was definitely worth it! Appreciate all the topout work from Marley, makes so many more climbable days. Still have a few more on this wall to lock in!
Needleseye Boulders 7c+ Red point
2020-03-18
2020-03-18
Flash
Minden, Unnamed 05
6C+ Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
Line over 2 tiered landing up and around to the right of parabola. Name? Lisa flashed the 3 to the left of it!
Needleseye Boulders 6c+ Flash
2020-03-04
2020-03-04
Red point
Big Bitz
7C Boulder at South Side Boulders
Surprised myself with a 2nd power endurance line in the same day! Love the original Litz roof, the low start movement is neat but so ass-dragging that it becomes a star detractor. End for Big opposed to Little is likely easier for me due to fewer moves and a clutch right heel-toe. 5 Heel-toe cams total?! 3rd ascent maybe?
South Side Boulders 7c Red point
2020-03-04
2020-03-04
Red point
Rollin' Spliffs
7B Boulder at South Side Boulders
Kinda a 1 mover. Crux move felt hard at the end of a long, productive day.
South Side Boulders 7b Red point
2020-03-04
2020-03-04
Red point
Ali Bubba and the 40 Thieves
8A Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
Arguably the MEGA line in the cave. Enjoyable progression of movement, starting with a dyno-esque move to a jug, through the steady, controlled movement of Ali Bubba, to the core-intensive, power driven 40 thieves. Inadvertently have spent more days on this than any other line ever, having hidden out in this roof during many a rainy or snowy day. Did not like 40 thieves til I locked down the toe hook beta a couple days before the send, however that seemed to unlock the entire line as a possibility. Day before the send it condensed like milk, cool temps and a strong wind overnight and decided to gamble a great weather day in the roof. Surprisingly pleasant underneath here on a sunny day. Murdered my left pinky while warming up. After a quick fumble as my 1st attempt from the ground on send day, fired it next go from the start. Didn't think I had the power endurance for a line like this. Not V12 (David and Goliath felt harder, this may be a notch above Spinal). Think this is the 4th? (Southward, Barth and Grupper?).
Short Creek Boulders 8a Red point
2020-03-01
2020-03-01
Red point
Send in the Stone
6B+ Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
Damn good for the grade, quality knee bar. Lisa is close! (Line with same start to the left of Fourplay).
Fern Point Boulders 6b+ Red point
2020-03-01
2020-03-01
2nd Red point
Fourplay
7B+ Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
4 or 5 tries. Spectacular movement, does have some dab factor (though mostly on the plant we didn't rip out). Avallone destroyed this. Probably 1st and 2nd ascent? Even tops out!
Fern Point Boulders 7b+ 2nd Red point
2020-02-16
2020-02-16
Flash
Ladder
5 Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
Pretty good. Lets stop naming things 'Ladder' kthxbye.
Rumbling Bald, NC 5 Flash
2020-02-16
2020-02-16
Red point
Reservoir Dogs
7C+ Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
Fantastic, powerful tension on a slightly overhung face. Got off the undercling rail to the right hand gaston with a high AF right foot on the incut crimp. Scared myself on the topout, ended up riding the seam up and left. Want to take 10 so badly but can't justify it. 7 or 8 goes today, had given it 4 or 5 tries at the very end of the day on my last visit.
Rumbling Bald, NC 7c (7c+) Red point
2020-02-16
2020-02-16
Red point
Kamikaze
7C+ Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
Way cool jump move. All the moves felt impossible on first effort but unlocked it fully in about 30 minutes. First flapper in years from the jug, but totally worth it! 10.1 perhaps, love the vacation grades. Dreamland looks morpho AF, standing off the ground definitely cannot span the 1st move with the foot on, will have to try it another trip. Can we get a unique name for one of these damn boulders at the Bald?
Rumbling Bald, NC 7c+ Red point
2020-02-16
2020-02-16
Flash
Kung Fu Grip
6C+ Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
Cool sequence through the pinch, then some bullshit awkwardness to make it over the boulder, serious star detractor.
Rumbling Bald, NC 6c+ Flash
2020-02-16
2020-02-16
Red point
Black Slab Right SDS
6C Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
Awkward 1st move. 2nd go. From the stand is V1ish.
Rumbling Bald, NC 6c Red point
2020-02-16
2020-02-16
Flash
Basketball Mantle
6A Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
Great problem, except it barely qualifies as a mantle, more like walking your feet up the hand holds to stand on top, never flip your hands around. Harder than 2.
Rumbling Bald, NC 6a+ (6a) Flash
2020-02-16
2020-02-16
Red point
Full Contact
7B+ Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
One hard hard move. Took me quite a number of goes, 2nd hardest move of the day. Low low will be a challenge (can't even figure out what the middle start is). All sortsa epoxy up under this fool. Hard move for the grade.
Rumbling Bald, NC 7b+ Red point
2020-02-16
2020-02-16
Red point
The Bowl (low start) (V10)
7C+ Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
Hardest move of the day. Put left foot on a tiny point first, right on the tinier edge on the corner. Surprised myself using the left hand open as a pinch. Blood blister in the process. A quickie to cap a seriously amazing send day at the Bald.
Rumbling Bald, NC 7c (7c+) Red point
2020-02-09
2020-02-09
2nd Red point
Ripper
7C Boulder at Redbird
Great one from Sandmann. Had to battle lots of wet at the end, sliming off the left hand jug. Did some major top out work, should be a lot drier in the future. Low end 9? Dorbad will wrap this with a bow on top his next trip out.
Redbird 7c 2nd Red point
2020-02-09
2020-02-09
FA Red point
Crystal Meth Man
7C+ Boulder at Redbird
What a roof! Huge thanks to Sandmann and Ayala (sp?) for putting in the leg work to find this area, make it accessible, clean the tops and bottoms. DIrect variation to Crystal Man, a semi-contrivance, although after you do one move you're committed to the hard end sequence. Was able to put away quickly though I think that was less reflective on the grade and more so on perfect sun-shining conditions, post-nap psych and good prep. Probably low end 10, but will need some confirmation on this one. Lots of other beauties to develop in the area!
Redbird 7c+ FA Red point
2020-02-02
2020-02-02
Red point
White Egret
7B+ Boulder at Casey Jones Boulders
Figured out beta that completely eliminates the jump. Not sure how this was missed before. Makes it far easier, 1st go from start after sussing the beta. Still a fantastic quality boulder with bomber rock, as long as nobody knocks out the smooth conglomerate piece from the pinch. Tweaked the left knee with the heel toe :-(
Casey Jones Boulders 7b+ Red point
2020-02-02
2020-02-02
Red point
Suction
7A+ Boulder at Casey Jones Boulders
Argghh kinda a 1 mover, 1st move is much harder. Great rock.
Casey Jones Boulders 7a+ Red point
2020-02-02
2020-02-02
Red point
Immaculate Connection
7B Boulder at Hawk's Nest Boulders
3rd try. Beautiful line. 1 mover the way I did it, but is there a rose move beta option?
Hawk's Nest Boulders 7b Red point
2020-02-02
2020-02-02
Red point
Ya Dig?
7C Boulder at Hawk's Nest Boulders
1 move tho I nearly botched the top. Probably not v9 although certainly would be a hard move if you're an 8/9 climber.
Hawk's Nest Boulders 7b+ (7c) Red point
2020-01-22
2020-01-22
2nd Red point
Blockade
7B Boulder at Foxtown
Was a tricky move to learn for me. Felt hard for 7.
Foxtown 7b+ (7b) 2nd Red point
2020-01-22
2020-01-22
2nd Red point
Bitter Pill
7C+ Boulder at Foxtown
Hardest so far at Foxtown? Crux move that is my anti-style, although really the 3 moves up to/before the lip are all very hard and felt low percentage. Almost punted matching the lip. Feels solid for the grade. 2.5 sessions.
Foxtown 7c+ 2nd Red point
2020-01-17
2020-01-17
Flash
Gundercling
6B+ Boulder at Casey Jones Boulders
Fucking brilliant. Enjoyable day out with Brian and Nadya. Nadya thinks this could be v3, she could be right.
Casey Jones Boulders 6b+ Flash
2020-01-17
2020-01-17
Flash
Elephant in the Room
6C+ Boulder at Hawk's Nest Boulders
Among the best of contrived lines. A shame the water was too high, have some classics at Hawks Nest I still need to love upon.
Hawk's Nest Boulders 6c+ Flash
2020-01-16
2020-01-16
Red point
First Flight
7B Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
Started matched on hold just left of tree, left hand on the good incut, first move to the good right hand slot then headed left. Think this adds a move. Slight dab after latching the top as my feet swung out, inconsequential -- sue me.
Fern Point Boulders 7b Red point
2020-01-16
2020-01-16
Red point
Chase the Buffalo
7B+ Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
Flashed starting with the original holds, although unsure if this is the original beta, crossing right hand to the arete. Couple tries later did a sit start matched in slot down and right, still felt V7ish from down here. Pretty fun, in fact. Tundra one day when my skin feels tough.
Fern Point Boulders 7b (7b+) Red point
2020-01-16
2020-01-16
Red point
Epic Camel Toe
7B Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
Really hard 1st move that took me probably 45 minutes to finally nab. Might be harder than v7. Beautiful face.
Fern Point Boulders 7b Red point
2019-12-21
2019-12-21
2nd Red point
Splinter
7A+ Boulder at Rat's Hole Boulders
Left most line on rats hole boulder. Chris Hill fa about 2 minutes before me.
Rat's Hole Boulders 7a+ 2nd Red point
2019-12-21
2019-12-21
Flash
Summersville Lake, Unnamed 01
6A+ Boulder at Summersville Lake
Next line to right of Splinter on Rat's Hole boulder.
Summersville Lake 6a+ Flash
2019-12-21
2019-12-21
Red point
Summersville Lake, Unnamed 02
6C+ Boulder at Summersville Lake
2nd ascensionist but Chris Hill did it twice before me. Line just left of low arete on Rat's Hole boulder with Splinter. Committing but not terribly difficult topout!
Summersville Lake 6c+ Red point
2019-12-12
2019-12-12
Red point
The Bambino
7B+ Boulder at Foxtown
Flash game is soooo weak, climbed through the crux and then couldn't figure the move to the jug side-pull at the top out. Another 30ish minutes to send after that. Best line I see at bull pen. Nice beta suss and FA from Sandmann!
Foxtown 7b+ Red point
2019-12-11
2019-12-11
2nd Red point
Rubicon
7B Boulder at Foxtown
Awesome feature. Glue is a shame, although keeps the bottom corner of the right rail in place so that I can step up my foot. Might be 6 with this beta.
Foxtown 7b 2nd Red point
2019-12-11
2019-12-11
2nd Red point
Short Fuse
7B+ Boulder at Foxtown
Tall, pretty line, although the consolation prize for Bitter Pill. Think I pulled through on the end simply because I was scared of either the heel popping or my right hand dry firing. Will be back fresh for bitter pill!
Foxtown 7b+ 2nd Red point
2019-12-07
2019-12-07
Flash
Glade Creek, Unnamed 02
6A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Tall face to right of False Litz Roof. Real gud. 2 or 3?
South Side Boulders 6a+ Flash
2019-12-06
2019-12-06
Red point
Lawless
7C+ Boulder at Fayette Station Boulders
A definite nemesis rig finally put to rest. Tried this a handful of tired days over the years and could never figure out a sequence that worked for me. Thought I finally figured out the best beta when working it with Max (again, 2nd day on) ... came to it fresh and scrapped that beta for Max's. Covered the hold around the lip with the carpet bonded foam as it drizzled/rained on and off for hours. Still felt low percentage sticking over the lip. Low in the grade ...
Fayette Station Boulders 7c+ Red point
2019-12-01
2019-12-01
Red point
Man on the Moon
7C+ Boulder at Cotton Top Boulders
One of the all time best, anywhere. This one means a LOT! Such a proud fa by Spruil without the landing as it is currently, and especially difficult, with every attempt ground up. Crazy weather window, 3 straight days of forecasted rain ... sun came out for 5 hours Sunday afternoon, enough to dry up the block. 3rd day on it, serious projecting each time. Still felt hard even on the send go, does feel like solid 10 with my beta, however I could see 9 if someone is particularly good at jumping. Got scared on the top out, never went up there to chalk it up and didn't rehearse the moves on a rope like the prior to visits. So many classics down, but so so many more to go!
Cotton Top Boulders 7c+ Red point
2019-11-26
2019-11-26
Red point
Revenge
7B Boulder at Foxtown
7 seems fair, took a few tries at the end of day 3. Unfortunate permawet left crimp that you jump off of, otherwise would be high quality rock. Fun jump.
Foxtown 7b Red point
2019-11-26
2019-11-26
FA Red point
Methamorphosis
7B+ Boulder at Foxtown
Hard, maybe low end 9? Best of the rock out there, although the undercling makes me nervous. Difficult , powerful, tight movement to establish on the undercling, then big swoops to reel in the top. Damn cool rig.
Foxtown 7b+ FA Red point
2019-11-26
2019-11-26
FA Red point
Backwoods Bastard
7A+ Boulder at Foxtown
Quickie. Would have gotten an elusive fa flash if not for the foot exploding and dirty topout. Left crimp could go which would make it harder.
Foxtown 7a+ FA Red point
2019-11-24
2019-11-24
2nd Red point
Buvos Kocka
7C+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Upper end of 10 it feels. Sorta a 1 mover but can definitely drop the top. Tried to climb out right instead but too scary! Just barely tall enough it seems, would be extra difficult if you're shorter. This boulder has a lot more to give. Derrick with the quick.
Blue Hole Boulders 7c+ 2nd Red point
2019-11-20
2019-11-20
2nd Red point
Gray Sky SDS
7C Boulder at South Side Boulders
Enjoy the small, subtle crimps with decent feet, a definite rarity at the New (at least on boulders). Along a similar line to Nerds and Charizard. Technically 1st ascent from the sit, although they don't add a whole lot in difficulty. I suspect solid 9 and very specific, if you're not too tall/big and are comfortable on crimps you will feel right at home. Certainly far easier than say, Judah. 3rd try (from start or otherwise) for the original, next go after from the sit, with same start holds as Grey Matter. A little easier/more straight forward than Grey Bush. I think it was just that hot when the FAs were done, cuz so much else of Marley's is stout/ solidly graded.
South Side Boulders 7c 2nd Red point
2019-11-20
2019-11-20
Red point
Chance of Rain
7B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Took several goes to figure out my preferred beta, then 4 or 5 quick tries from the start to put her down. Really just the 2nd move, probably hard v8 in line with Love Struck. May be easier for taller folk in contrast to Grey Sky (and Bush?) easier for shorter.
South Side Boulders 7b+ Red point
2019-11-17
2019-11-17
Red point
Blue Hole, Unnamed 09
6A Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Amazing jugssss. 2 problems to the left of Andromeda.
Blue Hole Boulders 6a Red point
2019-11-15
2019-11-15
2nd Red point
Andromeda
8A Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Fantastic rock and movement. Unusual for the New in that it's not huge moves on relatively small holds. Third day over a few years, took another full effort session to put it away. Originally thought this was a solid 11 but found some clutch beta with an extra 2 finger undercling that changed up the foot sequence and allowed me to clinch the send. Was also going a bit too high in the right hand slot crimp. Still suspect maybe low end 11?
Blue Hole Boulders 8a 2nd Red point
2019-11-11
2019-11-11
Red point
Forbidden Fruit
7C+ Boulder at Summersville Dam Boulders
2nd ascensionist I think, but not 2nd ascent. Probably what Original Sin could have been, but nice to have some different line options. Relatively quick, 8 or 9 goes? Low end 10 or hard 9.
Summersville Dam Boulders 7c+ Red point
2019-11-11
2019-11-11
Red point
Hideaway
This line is sooooo good. My new all time favorite sloper problem at the New. Had messed around on it several previous days but never fresh or with decent temps. Still took a few hours to unlock the lip sequence and finished her off 2 goes after that. Klinger's finest? This does NOT get enough love and should be dry all season! Felt hard hard for v9.
Summersville Dam Boulders 7c Red point
2019-11-09
2019-11-09
2nd Red point
Gray Bush SDS
7C+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
From same start holds as Gray Matter. I think 2nd ascent? Def not 11, may be 10 but likely hard 9 with speed I did it.
South Side Boulders 7c+ 2nd Red point
2019-11-09
2019-11-09
Red point
Glove Struck
7B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Really, really good. The line you expect to climb when walking up to the boulder. Fanning with the betas. 3rd ascent I believe. Felt the same difficulty as Love Struck
South Side Boulders 7b+ Red point
2019-10-25
2019-10-25
Flash
Love Muscle
6B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
So good. Part of the mega circuit for moderates on the Meadow. Amazing pinches. This block is so neat how it fell off the top of the cliff line to lie like a book leaning against the wall.
South Side Boulders 6b+ Flash
2019-10-25
2019-10-25
FA Red point
Snake Wrangler
7A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Great line, not quite over after sticking the rails on the face ... Roper slipped off the slab and gave me the window! Really a co-fa 1-2 with Roper.
South Side Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2019-10-25
2019-10-25
FA Red point
Love Muscle (right var.)
6C+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Hard 5 or soft 6. Slightly less cool than left variation but still worthy. A shame nothing goes straight up the right arete.
South Side Boulders 6c+ FA Red point
2019-10-24
2019-10-24
Red point
Love Struck
7B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
2nd ascensionist, not 2nd ascent tho. Low in the grade? Fired it once I put a big enough tick on the slot. Waiting for a permanent name ...
South Side Boulders 7b+ Red point
2019-10-24
2019-10-24
FA Red point
I Love You 3000
7C Boulder at South Side Boulders
Hardest line (yet?) on the Love boulder. First time I've crimped this hard in 8 months! Fingers are feeling better. Friction set in full force as the sun set, haven't felt stickiness like this in ages. Unexpected!
South Side Boulders 7c FA Red point
2019-10-14
2019-10-14
FA Red point
Between Two Ferns
7B+ Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
Middle line, left trend on the Fern boulder. Technical foot sequence at the bottom, end of the day/trip send and fought for every move. Thought I might juice out on the top out. The most wonderful of holds including my new favorite crimp of all time. Probably will settle at V7?
Aaron's House Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2019-10-14
2019-10-14
2nd Flash
Where the Green Fern Grows
7A+ Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
Right face line on Fern Carpet boulder. Stunner. Guessing with some tricky beta this may settle down at V5. Single session onslaught by Roper and myself to clean this beauty off while the moss is dry and the toupee lifts right off. The Golden Age of bouldering in the New is far from over.
Aaron's House Boulders 7a+ 2nd Flash
2019-10-14
2019-10-14
FA Red point
Odd Man Out
7B Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
Was gonna be called Bizarro, but this is better. Gorgeous face with 'meh' climbing. An oddity at the New.
Aaron's House Boulders 7b FA Red point
2019-10-13
2019-10-13
2nd Red point
Academy Award
7C Boulder at 41 Boulders
2nd? Small holds! Felt like harder moves than Gold Globe. Tag team landing with Chill, Ed, Matt. Great crew!
41 Boulders 7c 2nd Red point
2019-10-13
2019-10-13
FA Flash
Mr. Jangles
6B+ Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
Right line starting on flat shelf, right hand to sidepull/pinch, high heel, up to the slopers and ride the rails to the top. Really good rock. Project right next to it looks mega, tho we need to move the landing rock.
Aaron's House Boulders 6b+ FA Flash
2019-10-13
2019-10-13
FA Red point
Mr. Floofs
6C+ Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
To left of Mr. Jangles. Marred by the funky rock that we can't get to lie flat.
Aaron's House Boulders 6c+ FA Red point
2019-10-13
2019-10-13
2nd Flash
Stomping Grounds
6A Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
Worth it.
Aaron's House Boulders 6a 2nd Flash
2019-10-06
2019-10-06
2nd Red point
Dionysus Double Extension
6C+ Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
Extension to 01
Aaron's House Boulders 6c+ 2nd Red point
2019-10-04
2019-10-04
2nd Flash
Maui Wowie
6B+ Boulder at Power Plant Boulders
2nd ascent after Corpron?! Has the water ever been this low before? Stunning crack feature straight up the middle of a 30ish degree overhung boulder. Marred only a bit by the curse, although the hand holds themselves are comfy. Yum.
Power Plant Boulders 6b+ 2nd Flash
2019-10-04
2019-10-04
Red point
Otter Arete
7B+ Boulder at Power Plant Boulders
Snuck it in just before the sun lit it up. Tried some several years ago in the sun and heat. Could even get a downgrade if it was cold and shady, although the water is rarely low enough when temps are good. More to do at powerplant, psych is re-kindled!
Power Plant Boulders 7b+ Red point
2019-10-03
2019-10-03
FA Red point
Siren's Song
7B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
I thought this was going to be v4ish until I realized the feet are like standing on sticks of butter. Powerful! I suck at crack climbing.
South Side Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2019-10-03
2019-10-03
2nd Red point
Siberian
7A+ Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
Gorgeous rock, worthy line in the heat, delicate and scary slap top with some awesome beta. Kinda a co-FA with Roper! It was 90 degrees today.
Aaron's House Boulders 7a+ 2nd Red point
2019-10-02
2019-10-02
Red point
Mind Flayer
7B Boulder at South Side Boulders
2nd ascensionist, not 2nd ascent. Straight up variation, didn't use any of the holds on Leaping.
South Side Boulders 7b Red point
2019-10-02
2019-10-02
Red point
Stuck On You
7A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Really liked this link, cool holds. Start on 11 and climb left into Leaping Leprechaun. First go, not a flash since had already done the end of Leaping Leprechaun. Ball of Roper's tape stuck to my shoe during the send.
South Side Boulders 7a+ Red point
2019-09-29
2019-09-29
FA Flash
The Hedrick's Experience
6B+ Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
SOOO HOT, WANT TO TOUCH THE HEINIE.
Aaron's House Boulders 6b+ FA Flash
2019-09-29
2019-09-29
FA Red point
The Hedrick's Experience (right var.)
6B+ Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
Worthy variation. Woulda been a flash except I did the direct already.
Aaron's House Boulders 6b+ FA Red point
2019-09-28
2019-09-28
Flash
11
6C+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Brilliant holds.
South Side Boulders 6c+ Flash
2019-09-28
2019-09-28
2nd Red point
Red Panda
6B+ Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
Stunner. Lots of potential in this cluster.
Aaron's House Boulders 6b+ 2nd Red point
2019-09-28
2019-09-28
Flash
Leaping Leprechaun
7B Boulder at South Side Boulders
Personal favorite of the wall. Might feel like a 6 if it's cold enough.
South Side Boulders 7b Flash
2019-09-27
2019-09-27
2nd Flash
Dionysus Double
6A+ Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
Sandmann gets his first NRG fa's!
Aaron's House Boulders 6a+ 2nd Flash
2019-09-27
2019-09-27
FA Flash
Cupid Crack
7A+ Boulder at Aaron's House Boulders
Beautiful. Nigh perfect.
Aaron's House Boulders 7a+ FA Flash
2019-09-09
2019-09-09
FA Red point
J.A.L.T.
6A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Just Another Lip Traverse. Same boulder as 100% Beef. Holy shit the jumbles of the Meadow.
South Side Boulders 6a+ FA Red point
2019-09-06
2019-09-06
FA Red point
100% Beef
7A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Tucked just under the road. Unexpectedly fine movement for what could have been a lip traverse.
South Side Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2019-09-05
2019-09-05
2nd Flash
High and Dry
7A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Water's down on the Meadow and it's wholesale FA's. Guess we came up with trite names for this one. Good eye as always, Roper. Couldn't quite do the dyno in the heat today.
South Side Boulders 7a+ 2nd Flash
2019-09-03
2019-09-03
FA Red point
Single Span
7B+ Boulder at Gauley Boulders
Brilliant arch feature, funky climbing, could be V7 when it's not 80+ degrees out. The rivers are stackedddddd. Will the Taco return?
Gauley Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2019-08-08
2019-08-08
Red point
World Premiere
7A+ Boulder at 41 Boulders
Left most line on Golden Globe boulder opposite face. A little bit contrived start but on obvious holds on left most side of the wall. Deeeeep lock. Sweet slopers. Not my name.
41 Boulders 7a+ Red point
2019-08-08
2019-08-08
FA Red point
Golden Globe Direct
7B+ Boulder at 41 Boulders
Hot diggity, this line is full value. Amazing, compression-esque moves up the face to a definite exit crux. Fell off the move to the lip 3 or 4 times? Beautiful, quality rock. Can't believe nobody put the effort to finish this off earlier. Probably hard 8 although may feel chill in cool temps if the water is low enough.
41 Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2019-08-06
2019-08-06
Red point
Between Beauty (Middle Start)
7C Boulder at Beauty Mountain Boulders
Huge jump from stand (2 tries for it) and another huge to the full line, will have to try in cooler conditions. Needed to keep the toe hook for the 1st move to keep the tension for the 2nd. Another awesome wall with tons of links and variations courtesy of Marley!
Beauty Mountain Boulders 7c Red point
2019-08-01
2019-08-01
Red point
Best Picture
6C+ Boulder at 41 Boulders
Just right of the deep water seam on upstream face of Golden Globe boulder. I gave the name, unlikely f.a. V5 or 6?
41 Boulders 6c+ Red point
2019-08-01
2019-08-01
Flash
In the Spotlight
6C+ Boulder at 41 Boulders
Right most line of upstream face of Gold Globe boulder. I gave the name, possible f.a.? V5 or 6?
41 Boulders 6c+ Flash
2019-08-01
2019-08-01
Flash
Golden Globe
6C+ Boulder at 41 Boulders
Maybe FA? Brilliant climb. Flowing sequence with friendly holds on a beautiful feature. Spent about 3 hours building up the landing; loving the electric chainsaw. Left/direct variation should go?!
41 Boulders 6c+ Flash
2019-06-14
2019-06-14
Flash
First First
7B Boulder at Big South Fork
Not Nutall, but it'll do! Hard 7?
Big South Fork 7b Flash
2019-06-14
2019-06-14
FA Red point
First First Right
7B+ Boulder at Big South Fork
Right exit (although same end mantle) to First First. Feels incomplete without the low start, although that will add serious pump.
Big South Fork 7b+ FA Red point
2019-06-14
2019-06-14
FA Red point
Precarious
6C+ Boulder at Big South Fork
May be chill if the top is cleaned extensively but the 30 foot near featureless slab was downright terrifying. Started matched underclings. Thanks Steve!
Big South Fork 6c+ FA Red point
2019-06-04
2019-06-04
FA Red point
Kibble
7C Boulder at Substation Boulders
Left arete of the boulder. Felt very insecure with the left foot when standing the right up onto the face of the boulder. Another quality bloc found by Micah. Took a longggg time to settle into the low moves and figure out the last move onto the face but sent in only a couple tries after, amount of effort would suggest 9 but could be an 8. Excellent way to cap the season (although it may continue?!)
Substation Boulders 7c FA Red point
2019-06-03
2019-06-03
FA Red point
Deep Fried
7C Boulder at Wolf Creek Boulders
The novel: A Klinger vision from the start; clearly MEGA. Had been eyeing this for 3(?) years now, always marred by the chunk of rock lying under the boulder. An epic come-along sess and a month or so of patients. The full package, flowy, friendly compression movement to a shouldery, tension crux with a hairy mantle. Really damn spectacular. Not quite as hard as I imagined, but a good compliment to Loaded Biscuit. Among the best anywhere.
Wolf Creek Boulders 7c FA Red point
2019-04-30
2019-04-30
FA Red point
Recall
7B+ Boulder at Substation Boulders
FA, although Marley did the traverse through these moves, topout is not hard but full value. I'm in love with the brown patina. Need to get back to try the left arete; bounty worth crimp line? Felt 8/9 but will sandbag until a consensus upgrade.
Substation Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2019-04-22
2019-04-22
Red point
Death Rattle
7C Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
Fuck this thing is full value. A massive boulder blessed with a sloped landing to follow it's steepness although still with a bit of spice through the crux. Excellent progression with a flowing sequence up to the crux, powerful and tensiony crux with a few more intense moves to the finish. I tried very hard for the send, if someone told me it was a 10 I wouldn't have questioned, much less 8; however, it may be the morpho causing this (But Gus crushed?!). Between this, Spiritual Medicine and other stunners, Cox has sure left his mark. Day 2. Lisa and shrooms :-)
Needleseye Boulders 7c Red point
2019-04-22
2019-04-22
Red point
Minden, Unnamed 04
7B+ Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
Hard AF for me, but I suck at jumping. Never thought I'd get back to this thing with psych and enough pads for the jumbled landing. Nearly a last-go-best-go scenario, no food, jittery from caffeine. Mind trickery moving the tick mark and barely latched. Lisa is the MVP for the weekend, patient with all of the climbing, spotting, encouragement. Project to the left looks burl.
Needleseye Boulders 7b+ Red point
2019-04-21
2019-04-21
FA Red point
White Lies
7B+ Boulder at Lower Meadow Boulders
Beautiful line on crimps to the right of White Lightning opened up when I flipped a few rocks. Very particular skill set (crimping on tiny holds) for the crux, although ultimately not -that- hard? Upper end 8 I think. I dislike slash grades.
Lower Meadow Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2019-04-21
2019-04-21
Red point
Bondye
7A+ Boulder at Lower Meadow Boulders
Given 6 points in the guide but consensus says harder. Will have to look up the name once I get my guide back! Klinger still remembered his beta after how many years??
Lower Meadow Boulders 7b+ (7a+) Red point
2019-04-18
2019-04-18
Red point
Whirlygig
7B+ Boulder at Lower Meadow Boulders
Probably 25+ attempts on the 1st move over two sessions, stuck it twice, one punt and one send. Tough move for me but really like it nonetheless. Need to get better at moves like this!
Lower Meadow Boulders 7b+ Red point
2019-04-18
2019-04-18
FA Flash
White Lightning Sit
7B Boulder at Lower Meadow Boulders
Real good. Kinda a flash FA although really just added the two sit moves to an established higher start. Starts right hand in the iron crimp with the point on the left of the hold and left hand on flat edge just beside (although Brian Arcement later with the alternate right undercling beta), tried to avoid over-contriving the sit start, felt comfy at this height. What a gorgeous wall, project to the right got me PSYCHED!
Lower Meadow Boulders 7b FA Flash
2019-04-17
2019-04-17
Red point
Litz Roof
7B Boulder at South Side Boulders
Pretty freakin' spectacular. Long, pretty flowy, pumpy. Hard to find lines like this!
South Side Boulders 7b Red point
2019-04-17
2019-04-17
Red point
Diggin' Pits
7B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Had more troubles with the face than the overhung section. Stomped on Takin' Rips.
South Side Boulders 7b+ Red point
2019-04-16
2019-04-16
2nd Red point
Season's Bay
7C+ Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
Link from spread underclings underneath the old start to Season's change, climbs left up through Old Bay. 2nd after Kerek? I like the cross under move off the left hand sloper/pinch. Certainly harder than Old/New Bay/Bae and Season's Change ... probably low end 10 and Father Figure is hard 10? Will need some consensus one of these days ...
Needleseye Boulders 7c+ 2nd Red point
2019-04-04
2019-04-04
Red point
Full Moon Arete
7B Boulder at South Side Boulders
Hard in the heat! Tricky. 2x to prove I could do it and the send wasn't just a fluke. Beautiful, accessible boulder.
South Side Boulders 7b Red point
2019-04-03
2019-04-03
Red point
Grey Matter
7B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Very good. Another loaded boulder.
South Side Boulders 7b+ Red point
2019-04-03
2019-04-03
Red point
Something Matter
7C Boulder at South Side Boulders
Would have been great to not fall at the end 2 times. Other than getting your ass off the ground, has quite a bit of flow.
South Side Boulders 7c Red point
2019-04-03
2019-04-03
Flash
Glade Creek, Unnamed 01
6C+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
To the right of the shorty, 3 mover V10 that marley but up, upstream end of the boulder field.
South Side Boulders 6c+ Flash
2019-04-02
2019-04-02
Red point
New Bae
7C Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
Could be V8 though harder than Grey Matter. Still got pumped AF for the top. Close on the link in from the right! Oh my Father Figure ...
Needleseye Boulders 7c Red point
2019-03-20
2019-03-20
Red point
Bonnie and Clyde Low (Right)
6C+ Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
Really quite amazing, beautiful wall when it's dry. 5 or soft 6?
Needleseye Boulders 6c+ Red point
2019-03-20
2019-03-20
Red point
Old Bay
7C Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
Several thoughts: 1st straight up ascent I think as it has been seemingly eternally wet? Finished cleaning off the jugs below the lip, has to make it easier by 1/2 a grade compared with out left variation, possibly hard V8, although still was a fight to the end for me and will take 9 for now. Couldn't do the left hand v-shaped-crimp with right match, so had to do 2 extra hand movements to match, made it possible for me. Couldn't finish off New Bae, which may come back to haunt me. Marley has some legit vision, seeing the lines between the lines. Ahhh to be back at the New after 2 months of horrid conditions!
Needleseye Boulders 7c Red point
2019-03-10
2019-03-10
Red point
Bump in the Night
6B+ Boulder at Foxtown
Tricky
Foxtown 6b+ Red point
2019-03-10
2019-03-10
Red point
Bullet Proof Low
6C+ Boulder at Foxtown
Shorty but fun. I think this is the name? Start on the triangle edge, good feet, jump up right to sloper.
Foxtown 6c+ Red point
2019-03-10
2019-03-10
FA Red point
Large Bore
7B+ Boulder at Foxtown
Damn. Best freestanding bloc in KY with this and the swoop? Progressively harder moves on techy arete, quality stone. Starts crouched with right hand on thin right facing iron side-pull crimp, left around corner of arete.
Foxtown 7b+ FA Red point
2019-03-10
2019-03-10
FA Red point
Confabulation
7B+ Boulder at Foxtown
Contrivance in the big Nursing Home roof between "In Heat" and "Defib". Start with right hand in good slot jug (on left side of low feature, not all the way in the big slot far right). Left hand to 3 finger slot with point on left side of hold, right hand just out from this, swing your feet, right hand cross over move again to thin crimp, match, couple more moves to obvious point straight out from the start. Does top out!
Foxtown 7b+ FA Red point
2019-02-28
2019-02-28
Red point
Welcome to the Jumble
6C+ Boulder at Roy, New Mexico
David with the flash!!
Roy, New Mexico 6c+ Red point
2019-02-28
2019-02-28
Red point
The Slug
7B+ Boulder at Roy, New Mexico
I guess people use the right heel to start this problem. 2x as the last problem of the trip. Goddamn punt on Channel Incision, will have to come back for revenge!
Roy, New Mexico 7b+ Red point
2019-02-28
2019-02-28
Flash
Best of Friends
7B+ Boulder at Roy, New Mexico
Beautiful boulder! Had to try hard in the direct sun, thought I might split some tips.
Roy, New Mexico 7b+ Flash
2019-02-28
2019-02-28
Red point
No Tiempo Moss
8A Boulder at Roy, New Mexico
Really quite wonderful, friendly crimps. Presumably a hard 10, which would settle Carpet Bombers at v9 and keep the grades rolling stout in Roy. Making me work for it! Dan sooooooo close!
Roy, New Mexico 7c+ (8a) Red point
2019-02-27
2019-02-27
Flash
Mos Neisley
6C+ Boulder at Roy, New Mexico
Felt hard, and amazing.
Roy, New Mexico 6c+ Flash
2019-02-27
2019-02-27
Red point
Spanish Caravan
7C Boulder at Roy, New Mexico
Best movement with the shittiest rock of the trip. Outside of the jumbles, there really is quite a bit of choss. Dan and I with the 1-2
Roy, New Mexico 7c Red point
2019-02-27
2019-02-27
Red point
Ergonomicon
7B Boulder at Roy, New Mexico
2nd go. Eff.
Roy, New Mexico 7b Red point
2019-02-25
2019-02-25
Flash
Try Angular
7A+ Boulder at Roy, New Mexico
But it's a stupid lip traverse!
Roy, New Mexico 7a+ Flash
2019-02-25
2019-02-25
Red point
Man versus Rock
7B+ Boulder at Roy, New Mexico
Fantastic, easier climbing down low straight up ruined by a gross topout.
Roy, New Mexico 7b+ Red point
2019-02-25
2019-02-25
Red point
Destroy the Castle
7B Boulder at Roy, New Mexico
Probably my favorite of the day. I suck at climbing sometimes.
Roy, New Mexico 7b Red point
2019-02-25
2019-02-25
Red point
Fun bags Sit
7C Boulder at Roy, New Mexico
V7 from down and right. I did think the low moves were kinda fun in their awkwardness, although still a star detractor. Slopers are both awesome and gross simultaneously. Michelle killing the stand the next day!
Roy, New Mexico 7b (7c) Red point
2019-02-25
2019-02-25
Flash
Puddle Jumper
7B Boulder at Roy, New Mexico
So good. 2x. @Night.
Roy, New Mexico 7a+ (7b) Flash
2019-02-24
2019-02-24
Red point
Sitar Funk
7B+ Boulder at Roy, New Mexico
Horrid 1st move mars this problem which is otherwise filled with neat body position dependent movement. Pushed the toe out farther than expected for the 1st move and took 'er down.
Roy, New Mexico 7b+ Red point
2019-02-24
2019-02-24
Red point
Carpet Bombers
7C Boulder at Roy, New Mexico
Got pumped and scared at the top. Acclimation!
Roy, New Mexico 7c Red point
2019-02-15
2019-02-15
FA Red point
Turd on Herd
7B+ Boulder at Foxtown
Next line to the right of Herding Cats, a brutal campus one mover. Lovely rock but the climbing feels incomplete, but can't fathom starting lower without any feet. Needed to be done! Could be harder.
Foxtown 7b+ FA Red point
2019-02-15
2019-02-15
FA Red point
Herding Cats
7C Boulder at Foxtown
Thought this would be way harder! Gorgeous crimps, really might be my favorite crimps of any boulder to date. Ends on the wet, sandy jug above the choss but felt safer than continuing up and left. Need someone to give me a feels on the difficulty!
Foxtown 7c FA Red point
2019-02-04
2019-02-04
2nd Red point
All Ears
6C+ Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
Next to Echo project. Climbs better than it looks. 5 or 6?
Needleseye Boulders 6c+ 2nd Red point
2019-02-04
2019-02-04
Red point
Crampus
7B Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
Cool body position move, unfortunate dab factor. Eff the wetness everywhere!
Needleseye Boulders 7b Red point
2019-02-04
2019-02-04
Red point
So Fetch
6B+ Boulder at Substation Boulders
It's aight. Cool knee bar. Relatively choss rock. Right most line on the boulder. Use the tree roots as the jug for the topout, lets not overly contrive this.
Substation Boulders 6b+ Red point
2019-01-27
2019-01-27
Flash
Weight of Sound
7B Boulder at Dogwood Boulders
Eye catcher
Dogwood Boulders 7b Flash
2019-01-27
2019-01-27
Red point
Michelin Man
7B+ Boulder at Dogwood Boulders
What the FUCK. Best of the grade I've done that I can remember. Impeccable stone, outrageous aesthetics, beautiful creek and very good moves. A one-go-no-tape production. Up there with Deception, Western Gold, the Shield, etc
Dogwood Boulders 7b+ Red point
2019-01-27
2019-01-27
Red point
El Cubano
7B Boulder at Dogwood Boulders
One quite difficult move with a lowball dabby start. Hardest I've worked for 7 points in a long time, giving it the personal upgrade.
Dogwood Boulders 7b+ (7b) Red point
2019-01-26
2019-01-26
Red point
Pray Like a Mantis
7B+ Boulder at Zahnd
Maybe ever so slightly harder than Harvest moon, however really quite different boulders and land similarly.
Zahnd 7b+ Red point
2019-01-26
2019-01-26
Red point
Mononucleosis
7B+ Boulder at Zahnd
Great roof climbing to a god awful lip encounter star detractor. Got to a stance on the face, cuz eff topping out this dirty, curse ridden monster.
Zahnd 7b+ Red point
2019-01-26
2019-01-26
Red point
Harvest Moon
7B Boulder at Zahnd
2nd go. Agree this is probably hard 7 range although certainly accepted at 8. Vacation grades! Similar to Castaway I think? Although I did Castaway a million years ago. Wish the sit wasn't a star detractor.
Zahnd 7b Red point
2019-01-26
2019-01-26
Red point
Razor's Edge Sit
7A+ Boulder at Zahnd
Left sit at now half broken mini-jug, not the super-sit (that would be Gillete). Really it's a 1 move v6
Zahnd 7a+ Red point
2019-01-24
2019-01-24
Red point
Golden Harvest
7C+ Boulder at Rocktown
A long epic finally laid to rest. Many random days over the years on this one, almost never fresh. Finally sussed the beta spring 2018 but was too tired to put it down. Pretty quick today, surprise send at the end of the warm up, repeated a few tries later for the camera. Beautiful boulder with unusual climbing, I don't personally like the climbing all that much, probably because it feels so difficult to me! 4/5 of the Chatty area all-time list! 3/4 stars for me.
Rocktown 7c+ Red point
2019-01-24
2019-01-24
Red point
Blackout
7C+ Boulder at Rocktown
Goddamn, finally. Ended up slapping the sloper to the right of intended hold off the deep right lock, pulling my body up a smidge more then bumping over a few inches to the left. Pretty much just 1.5 really hard moves. Suspect there is a sweet spot in height around 5'10'' to 6', that hold is just out of comfortable reach for me. Finally taking down some Rocktown classics!
Rocktown 7c (7c+) Red point
2019-01-18
2019-01-18
FA Red point
Witness the Hickness
7C+ Boulder at Foxtown
Another quality roof line, improbable roof feature that doesn't climb as lowball as it looks. Took similar effort as Turbulence and Nightmare on Hurd street, however the holds are smaller and seem to be my game at the moment, reasonable to start with 10 and see if it settles lower. Hopefully more folks will try it soon! As always at Foxtown, thank you to Kipp!
Foxtown 7c+ FA Red point
2019-01-15
2019-01-15
FA Red point
Turbulence
7C Boulder at Foxtown
Sequency with amazing pinches, very cool holds on surprisingly quality rock, only one detracting choss hold in the middle that I did not use. Dropped off of the big jug 3 or so feet above the long jug rail. Kentucky has some gems tucked along the endless broken cliff line! Thanks Kipp!!
Foxtown 7c FA Red point
2019-01-15
2019-01-15
FA Red point
Nightmare on Herd Street
7C Boulder at Foxtown
Pretty mega tbh. HUGE crux move at the end of a tiring, compression sequence. One nasty choss hold that stays wet that may make it harder if you grab, otherwise pretty good rock.
Foxtown 7c FA Red point
2019-01-07
2019-01-07
FA Red point
High Heaven
7A+ Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
Brilliant. Surprisingly specific sequence to keep it from feeling terrifying. 1.5 hours on a rope to feel confident enough to take it down. Crux up high! Marley with the 1st ground up
Needleseye Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2019-01-06
2019-01-06
Red point
Squeamish
6C+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Fuck. This is as good as it gets.
South Side Boulders 6c+ Red point
2018-12-19
2018-12-19
Red point
Riot Right Variation
7C+ Boulder at Meadow Top Boulders
Welp, went back and added in an extra 2 moves from the logical, however terrifying start. In my bubble of light during the night session, didn't feel too scary, however one foot slip on the start move and you'll be headed down the cliff. Original start does feel incomplete, although makes sense for the fear factor. Hard 10 from this start? First ascent from this hold I believe. As well, tried Tim Roses' left exit and holy SHIT it is balls hard. Original comments from 2018-11-27: Funky sequence, weirdly techy. Marley beasted this thing, but I def had to find a variety of trickery to get it done. Started with right hand on best spot of the seam and left scrunched in just beside, seemed legit but saved me a move from Rose's original beta. Sorta two lines, will have to come back for the left (and original) variation!
Meadow Top Boulders 7c+ Red point
2018-11-29
2018-11-29
Flash
Blue Hole, Unnamed 08
7A+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Boulder just upstream from Wet Your Whistle, with the brutal curse. Sits in that same range as Inner Demons, probably a 7 but may be in line with 6 compared with others at Blue Hole.
Blue Hole Boulders 7a+ Flash
2018-11-29
2018-11-29
2nd Red point
Bustin' Down The Door
7C Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
2 mover, kinda scrunch. Gonna favor the smaller climber on this one. Scary scary top-out again on this one. Marley pissed on it, goddamn.
Blue Hole Boulders 7c 2nd Red point
2018-11-25
2018-11-25
Flash
The Brown Cow
7A+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
6. Max found a fun sequence that was likely on par with other options to seal an enjoyable flash, however this thing is a contrived mess of extraneous holds. Last of the moderate classics falls
Holy Boulders 7a+ Flash
2018-11-24
2018-11-24
Red point
Open Gates Low
7C Boulder at Holy Boulders
Surprisingly cool sequence, nice addition to the already well rounded Holy Boulders offerings
Holy Boulders 7c Red point
2018-11-24
2018-11-24
Red point
Cain and Ankle
7B+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
I wanted a flash and did not get. Amazing holds, definitely a new favorite at the Holies.
Holy Boulders 7b+ Red point
2018-11-24
2018-11-24
Red point
Big Meech
7B+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
A novelty.
Holy Boulders 7b+ Red point
2018-11-24
2018-11-24
Flash
Red Sea
7A+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
Flow. Flash!
Holy Boulders 7a+ Flash
2018-11-24
2018-11-24
Red point
See No Evil
7C Boulder at Holy Boulders
1st go, but had already done the 1st move on Red Sea, so I guess technically not a flash. Prophylactic pointer finger taping ftw.
Holy Boulders 7c Red point
2018-11-21
2018-11-21
Flash
Blue Hole, Unnamed 07
6C+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Cool 2 mover + mantle immediately right of Micah's jump problem.
Blue Hole Boulders 6c+ Flash
2018-11-21
2018-11-21
FA Red point
Inner Demons
7A+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Faces Dark Passenger, can't imagine this is an FA? Quite good despite having walked by this a number of times without giving it a second thought. Started sitting on the shelf, right hand in slot with good edge, first move cross left hand to best rail. 6/7 ... grades are confusing me, feels a solid grade easier than Wet Your Whistle but WYW felt easier than Royal Blue (and Dark Passenger?) but harder than almost all other 7s, this feels harder than most 6s but easier probably than say, WV Hotpocket. 6 for now ...
Blue Hole Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2018-11-21
2018-11-21
Red point
Wet Your Whistle
7B Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Really quite terrifying topout, almost ate it. Would be 3+ stars if not for the mega dab boulder, I do like the 1st move regardless. Hard for the grade, 7/8. One last boulder on my list from the og vid!
Blue Hole Boulders 7b Red point
2018-11-03
2018-11-03
2nd Red point
David and Goliath
8A Boulder at CSX Boulders
Well, shit. 5-6 days of effort, 2 this year with D&G as the primary goal of the day. Even the send burn felt hard and like I could drop the last couple of moves, especially with a punt going for the right hand "jug" the go before. I like the progression -- tic-tack moves on small holds to a solid crux mid roof to the best hold, a mini rest, then 3 serious tension moves to the lip. My hardest to date (even if the grade doesn't match)? Perfect conditions, well rested, good skin and still a fight! Will be very curious to see the consensus on this, although I suspect upper end 11? Certainly not a 9. Harder than Spinal although near identical number of hand movements. Likely the 2nd ... My 600th logged ascent!
CSX Boulders 8a 2nd Red point
2018-11-01
2018-11-01
2nd Flash
The Dotted Line
7A+ Boulder at Substation Boulders
Rad pinch. Substation keeps on giving!
Substation Boulders 7a+ 2nd Flash
2018-11-01
2018-11-01
FA Red point
Substation, Unnamed 01
6C+ Boulder at Substation Boulders
Kinda an FA, added the sit start that adds a few moves into the full line. Starts same holds as The Dotted Line but trends left. Small person friendly!
Substation Boulders 6c+ FA Red point
2018-11-01
2018-11-01
FA Red point
Bring It Here
6C+ Boulder at Substation Boulders
1st down on this outrageous boulder. The brown swirl patina is my fav. Odin the MVP (as Cox astutely pointed out) with bringing my shoe from 100 feet down the hill after I dropped it. Good doggie! So much more!
Substation Boulders 6c+ FA Red point
2018-10-29
2018-10-29
Red point
Revelry
7C Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
Don't think this thing has had any sending love in many years. 3rd ascent perhaps? Felt quite difficult with the beta I figured out, seems that if I had another couple inches I'd have another less ridiculous alternative sequence. Perhaps nigh impossible if you don't have at least 5'7'' reach? Scary scary topout.
Short Creek Boulders 7c Red point
2018-10-29
2018-10-29
Red point
Spinal Remains
Thought I would never do this thing. Previously suspected this would take the 12 grade since I couldn't do the crux for the 1st 3 sessions on it; 11 solid however. Maybe 5 days total, 3 serious over the last several years. My favorite cave/roof climb to date, the features and friendliness of the rock are next level. Need me some chipotle honey and sit to Ravenous!
Barbecue Babies Cave Bouldering 8a Red point
2018-10-29
2018-10-29
2nd Red point
Poker Face
7B Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
1 mover, frustrating, but cool one at that. Both this and Revelry are unusual for the New. Hard for the grade? 2nd ascent? Likely v8
Short Creek Boulders 7b+ (7b) 2nd Red point
2018-10-19
2018-10-19
FA Red point
Nerds
7B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Thought this was wayyy harder when it was hot and I couldn't gaston. Ends up as a delightful, delicate piece on crimps. High end, maybe 9?
South Side Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2018-10-19
2018-10-19
Red point
Playin' Hooky
7C Boulder at South Side Boulders
Thought I'd never do this thing, figured out shorty beta. Still cool. Spelled wrong? Low end.
South Side Boulders 7c Red point
2018-10-12
2018-10-12
Red point
Aqua Man
7B+ Boulder at Cotton Bottom Boulders
Felt like V8 to me, and just as hard as when I tried it in peak form in the spring. Man on the Moon ... :-(
Cotton Bottom Boulders 7b+ Red point
2018-09-28
2018-09-28
Flash
Wild Pack of Family Dogs 
7A+ Boulder at Tahoe - Beavers
I can agree, this is good.
Tahoe - Beavers 7a+ Flash
2018-09-28
2018-09-28
Red point
One Eye Willie 
7A Boulder at Tahoe - Beavers
Sometimes my suck at bouldering really outdoes itself.
Tahoe - Beavers 7b (7a) Red point
2018-09-28
2018-09-28
Red point
Cujo
7A Boulder at Tahoe - Beavers
This thing blows, why did I get sucked in.
Tahoe - Beavers 7a+ (7a) Red point
2018-09-28
2018-09-28
Red point
New Race Against Time
7B+ Boulder at Tahoe - Beavers
Sweet sequence, fall-in move, left drop knee right smear bump, etc. Glad to find it is in fact harder than v6.
Tahoe - Beavers 7b+ Red point
2018-09-28
2018-09-28
Red point
Willie Nilley
6C+ Boulder at Tahoe - Beavers
Felt hard AF til I changed shoes and then still hard. Not V5. Also did the V3 to the left of West Nile, dunno the name.
Tahoe - Beavers 7b (6c+) Red point
2018-09-26
2018-09-26
Red point
The Force
7C Boulder at Camp 4
Cooled off on the entry a couple days before then 4 or 5 goes day 2. I likey. Close on Midnight, if only it wasn't in the upper 80s.
Camp 4 7c Red point
2018-09-25
2018-09-25
Flash
Zorro
6C Boulder at Yosemite
Fun, big move
Yosemite 6c Flash
2018-09-25
2018-09-25
Flash
The Angler
6A+ Boulder at Curry village boulders
It's v5 and the holds are sharp. Disappointed with low end moderates in yosemite.
Curry village boulders 6c+ (6a+) Flash
2018-09-23
2018-09-23
Red point
Bruce Lee
7B+ Boulder at Camp 4
Techy. Hard in the heat.
Camp 4 7b+ Red point
2018-09-23
2018-09-23
Red point
Torque Spanner
7B+ Boulder at Camp 4
Unique, super fun movement, struggled with the 1st. Dab on the repeat!
Camp 4 7b+ Red point
2018-09-23
2018-09-23
Red point
Bear-Hug Mantel
6B+ Boulder at Camp 4
Hung on the jug to warm up hence no flash.
Camp 4 6b+ Red point
2018-05-29
2018-05-29
Red point
Magic Trick
7C Boulder at Meadow Top Boulders
Took a bit to want to trust the kneebar with the most slippery pants of all time. Glad Zak and Amber were pscyhed on the evening sess!
Meadow Top Boulders 7b+ (7c) Red point
2018-05-24
2018-05-24
Flash
Artifact Sector, Unnamed 02
6B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Really good couple of boulders here! Project down and right?! Tall left arete on backside of boulder when walking up the hill.
South Side Boulders 6b+ Flash
2018-05-24
2018-05-24
Red point
Artifact
7B Boulder at South Side Boulders
Didn't want to jump. Hot! V8+ effort on a v7?
South Side Boulders 7b+ (7b) Red point
2018-05-24
2018-05-24
Red point
Artifact Sector, Unnamed 01
7A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Hard. Compression!
South Side Boulders 7a+ Red point
2018-05-01
2018-05-01
Flash
Celebration
7A+ Boulder at 41 Boulders
6 or 7? Low-ball but with a sketchy feeling v2 topout. Is the season over?
41 Boulders 7a+ Flash
2018-05-01
2018-05-01
2nd Red point
Truth Serum
7B+ Boulder at 41 Boulders
Legit! Took quite some time to suss out the beta. Sequency, perhaps the most technical problem I've climbed yet at the New, kinda feels like a granite arete in the movement. Beautiful boulder as well. May be low in the grade.
41 Boulders 7b+ 2nd Red point
2018-04-30
2018-04-30
FA Red point
Charizard
7C+ Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
Crimps! I think soft 10? Very specific. Small finger/small reach friendly tho! Gotta collect em all!
Fern Point Boulders 7c+ FA Red point
2018-04-30
2018-04-30
Red point
Farfetch'd
7B Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
What slab esque climb down the hill from Camel Toe on the way to the Pokemon. Guess it has a name that was forgotten.
Fern Point Boulders 7b Red point
2018-04-30
2018-04-30
FA Red point
Squirtle
7B Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
Co FA with Cox. Had been wanting to get on this boulder for a longggggg time
Fern Point Boulders 7b FA Red point
2018-04-27
2018-04-27
Red point
Something Left
7A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Fun deadpoints on crimps. Original name?
South Side Boulders 7a+ Red point
2018-04-27
2018-04-27
Red point
Something Right
7B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Sit start on Something Fierce and traverse right to a hard right hand dead point. One move wonder as well, move feels easier to me than that on Something Fierce by a good bit, I think this is hard v8?
South Side Boulders 7b+ Red point
2018-04-27
2018-04-27
Red point
Something Fierce
7C Boulder at South Side Boulders
Total opposite end of style from OSOG, essentially a 1.5 mover with a serious dead point to a small crimp. Did NOT think I was going to do this, quite happy with this one. Bouldering at the New is still quite legit in the 60s!
South Side Boulders 7c Red point
2018-04-26
2018-04-26
FA Red point
On the Shoulders of Giants
7C Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
Wow, a dream of 5 years come to fruition. Undoubtedly up there with the best of the New. Delightful, flowy, steadily upward traversing holds across a 50 foot horizontal boulder with a solid exit crux. V7 into V7 with an exit crux making it a hard v9? Can't say I'm used to grading 20 move boulders. Built up the landing quite a bit, although the end is the sketchy part. Really hope more people try this stunner. So many feels! A long name for a long boulder. Single day landing build and projecting onslaught.
Fern Point Boulders 7c FA Red point
2018-04-19
2018-04-19
Red point
Trice
8A+ Boulder at Flagstaff Mountain
Perhaps the opposite end of the aesthetics spectrum compared with the Shield, however maybe a point for the history. A silly contrivance that I wanted to climb so badly. 3rd day this trip after destroying my tip on day 2. 6th or 7th day total trying this over many years. Probably very low end of the grade, especially if you can reach the good low right foot for the 1st move and get the heel to stay for the 2nd. Feel that more lines than ever are possible along with a need to keep getting stronger.
Flagstaff Mountain 8a+ Red point
2018-03-12
2018-03-12
Red point
Down Payment
7C Boulder at Chattanooga, TN USA
Really another 4 star line, overshadowed by Osiris only in height and shape, however this is really a more pure line with great movement. An end to my best day yet of bouldering!
Chattanooga, TN USA 7c Red point
2018-03-12
2018-03-12
Red point
Reflections
Hard af for me, 1st move destroyed my tip, last move my shoulder. And I effed up the video, glad this was only the start to an amazing day!
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7c+ Red point
2018-03-12
2018-03-12
Red point
The Shield
Fuck. Yes. Many thoughts: Feels perfect to be able to nab this in a narrow time window on an insane weather day, leaving 3+ inches of snow in Lexington to arrive at sunshine and upper 40s in Chattanooga. 4th day on it total over mannny years, 2nd day this season . . . 6 or 7 total goes today, warmed up and climbed as efficiently as possible. A mental barrier even if not physically the hardest, nor hard for the grade (quite soft perhaps), but such a stunning line to open the possibility for success on more hard climbs. And the quietest day at LRC, solo style. Amazing.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 8a+ Red point
2018-03-12
2018-03-12
Red point
Osiris
7C+ Boulder at Chattanooga, TN USA
Another beauty. 3/5 of the hard ultra classics in the chatty area down, two to go! On you 'til the end, despite videos making it look casual. Boulders at the New make this feel not so scary!
Chattanooga, TN USA 7c+ Red point
2018-03-03
2018-03-03
Red point
Canopy
7C Boulder at Chattanooga, TN USA
4 or 5 goes total, consolation prize for a lot of fails this trip, fun tho!
Chattanooga, TN USA 7c Red point
2018-02-25
2018-02-25
Red point
Two Pop (V9) 221
7C Boulder at 221
Holy flash blown, what a disaster. Didn't think I would like this so much but thugery feels good. A lot more boulders for me to play on down here!
221 7c Red point
2018-02-24
2018-02-24
Red point
It's Not My Problem
7C Boulder at Lost Cove, Boone, NC
Looks like I did harder (?) beta after the 1st move? Match on the 1st slot you go to? 2 stars just cuz I like balancing on the foot for the 1st move
Lost Cove, Boone, NC 7c Red point
2018-02-24
2018-02-24
Flash
Lost Cove Cranks
6B+ Boulder at Lost Cove, Boone, NC
Fun. Conditions is a goddamn eliminate and friends don't let friends climb eliminates
Lost Cove, Boone, NC 6b+ Flash
2018-02-24
2018-02-24
Flash
Patio Arete
6B+ Boulder at Lost Cove, Boone, NC
Yum. Eyes to the right
Lost Cove, Boone, NC 6b+ Flash
2018-02-24
2018-02-24
Flash
Beasley's face
6C+ Boulder at Lost Cove, Boone, NC
Sit start? lol
Lost Cove, Boone, NC 6c+ Flash
2018-02-24
2018-02-24
Red point
Matt's Prow
7B+ Boulder at Lost Cove
Tried the hardest on this of anything in the trip cuz of some very warm temps. Underwhelming climb
Lost Cove 7b+ Red point
2018-02-23
2018-02-23
Red point
Left Start Center 45
7B Boulder at Blowing Rock
Tension. Start holds and all the feet were wet, made this a struggle and felt quite hard for V7.
Blowing Rock 7b Red point
2018-02-23
2018-02-23
Red point
A.H.R.
7B+ Boulder at Blowing Rock
Meh. Low in the grade for Boone?
Blowing Rock 7b+ Red point
2018-02-23
2018-02-23
Red point
Tendon Sandwich SDS
7B+ Boulder at Blowing Rock
Maybe not quite SDS, more crouch start, first move is awkward AF, I did enjoy the last move. Start holds on down all MANK
Blowing Rock 7b+ Red point
2018-02-23
2018-02-23
Red point
Maddox Traverse
7B Boulder at Blowing Rock
Climbs better than expected. Good cap to a day with lots of surprises and wet rock.
Blowing Rock 7b Red point
2018-02-20
2018-02-20
Red point
Land of the Lost
7B+ Boulder at Fern Creek Boulders
3rd trip to put this down? I should get on this boulder when it isn't 70+ degrees outside. Still felt way hard for v7. Ugghhh I suck at jumping
Fern Creek Boulders 7b+ Red point
2018-02-20
2018-02-20
Red point
Cirrus
7B Boulder at Teay's Boulders
Pretty boulder
Teay's Boulders 7b Red point
2018-02-18
2018-02-18
Flash
Scudbuster
7A+ Boulder at Cotton Top Boulders
Scary, but not too scary after watching Cox and Chill stomp it
Cotton Top Boulders 6c+ (7a+) Flash
2018-01-22
2018-01-22
2nd Red point
Slip 'N Slide
7B Boulder at Karnage Crag Boulders
Fucking terrifying. Entire boulder is covered in death lichen, the fall for the topout could be life ending and the downclimb is scary even with a massive stump wedged between this and the neighboring boulder. Thank goodness I brought a rope! Great movement tho . . .
Karnage Crag Boulders 7b 2nd Red point
2018-01-19
2018-01-19
FA Red point
West Virginia Snow Pocket
7C+ Boulder at Teay's Boulders
Arete project to the right of WV Hot Pocket. Finally off the list! Managed the match using the mono for the left hand once by itself but couldn't pull it off from the start. Ended up using mono for the right. The name is absurd, but fitting? Was certainly a snowy adventure! Hard for the grade? Or just specific . . .
Teay's Boulders 7c+ FA Red point
2018-01-18
2018-01-18
Red point
Powerband
7B Boulder at South Side Boulders
Probably did v8 beta for a v7 problem, didn't want to do the big jump like roper. Fun!
South Side Boulders 7b Red point
2018-01-18
2018-01-18
Red point
Gene Pull
7C+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
2nd ascensionist (tho not 2nd ascent)? Up there in coolest moves in the cave so far. Feels a bit incomplete without the low, although the low may detract some quality. Need to secure access! Marley tearing it up.
South Side Boulders 7c+ Red point
2018-01-18
2018-01-18
2nd Red point
Dogwood Roof, Unnamed 05
7C Boulder at South Side Boulders
Low start to the furthest left dyno (?) in Dogwood roof. Will top out, although not necessarily worth it since a rainy day spot. Really like the movement
South Side Boulders 7c 2nd Red point
2018-01-14
2018-01-14
Red point
Karma Police Sit
7C Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
Best climb of the day, big move is mega-fun. Stretched out climbing into it from the low. Will be back for Reservoir Dogs!
Rumbling Bald, NC 7c Red point
2018-01-14
2018-01-14
Red point
Slave Driver
6A+ Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
One move wonder. This is the most classic for the grade at the Bald? :-/
Rumbling Bald, NC 6b+ (6a+) Red point
2018-01-14
2018-01-14
Red point
Brackish Water
7B+ Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
Fun, pumpy
Rumbling Bald, NC 7b+ Red point
2018-01-14
2018-01-14
Red point
Salt Water
7C Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
Eww. Can't believe I blew it after sticking the 2nd move and had to climb it again. 3 or 4 tries
Rumbling Bald, NC 7c Red point
2018-01-14
2018-01-14
Red point
Clearwater
7C+ Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
Thought I wasn't gonna send but realized I had to really pull with the right heel. Satisfying! Fresh Water next time?
Rumbling Bald, NC 7c (7c+) Red point
2018-01-14
2018-01-14
Red point
The Politician
7B+ Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
One star for aesthetics, 0 for the climbing. Awkward af. Stayed on the arete all the way up.
Rumbling Bald, NC 7b+ Red point
2017-12-30
2017-12-30
Red point
Dogwood Roof, Unnamed 03
6B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Fun, big moves, think I did this the day the roof condensed and forgot to log it
South Side Boulders 6b+ Red point
2017-12-30
2017-12-30
Red point
Dogwood Roof, Unnamed 04
7C Boulder at South Side Boulders
1-2 with Marley, tho with different beta. Lugnut?!
South Side Boulders 7c Red point
2017-12-29
2017-12-29
Red point
Blue Hole, Unnamed 06
7B Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Ugh that topout. Right line on side facing the water, boulder b/w Bed of Nails and Rubik's Cube.
Blue Hole Boulders 7b Red point
2017-12-29
2017-12-29
Red point
Blue Hole, Unnamed 04
6B+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Brilliant. Water seams with subtle top out along path down for downstream end of Blue Hole.
Blue Hole Boulders 6b+ Red point
2017-12-29
2017-12-29
Red point
Blue Hole, Unnamed 05
6B+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Fun
Blue Hole Boulders 6b+ Red point
2017-12-28
2017-12-28
Red point
Country Club, Unnamed 04
6C+ Boulder at Country Club Boulders
Weird. Funky climb on right of moderate filled boulder at downstream end of Country Club (chip shot all the way on the opposite corner of this boulder)
Country Club Boulders 6c+ Red point
2017-12-28
2017-12-28
Red point
Country Club, Unnamed 05
7B Boulder at Country Club Boulders
Stretchy Mcstretcherson. Funky as all getout
Country Club Boulders 7b Red point
2017-12-19
2017-12-19
FA Red point
ECT
7C+ Boulder at 41 Boulders
ECT = Electroconvulsive Therapy. Perhaps the most bizarre climb of this difficulty I've done. Huge thanks to Cox for showing me the crazy beta and getting her (mostly) cleaned up. Major fight through the end. Will have to come back for some more Celebration Boulders!
41 Boulders 7c+ FA Red point
2017-12-18
2017-12-18
Red point
Dogwood Roof, Unnamed 02
7A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Sick pogo move to finish, makes what looks like a big move quite casual. Eff the condensation!
South Side Boulders 7a+ Red point
2017-12-17
2017-12-17
2nd Red point
Black Sloper Problem
Really damn good. Been wanting the water to be low enough for sooooooo long and finally it matched up with when I was actually there. Lisa with me for the 1-2 on the landing build. Should be climbable if the water is around 7.6' or lower. Same with beauty in the breakdown!
Summersville Dam Boulders 7b+ (7c) 2nd Red point
2017-12-12
2017-12-12
FA Red point
Traction Control
7A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
And the first of the Dogwood cave goes down! The greatest climbing/transportation epic of all time. Roper and C2 sticking it out with me!
South Side Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2017-12-12
2017-12-12
FA Red point
Falling Flat
6C+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Just to right of traction control. Did hang on a couple of the holds to warm up so I guess not a flash. This roof is effin' lit.
South Side Boulders 6c+ FA Red point
2017-12-12
2017-12-12
2nd Red point
Dogwood Roof, Unnamed 01
7A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Left jug/heel match, right slot, cross left up to tiny crimp. Kinda weird, maybe v7?
South Side Boulders 7a+ 2nd Red point
2017-12-11
2017-12-11
Red point
Lip Stick
7C+ Boulder at CSX Boulders
Perhaps the best mini-roof I've climbed. Mega fun moves. Clutch right toe hook, wanted to campus it so badly but was too pooped out.
CSX Boulders 7b+ (7c+) Red point
2017-12-11
2017-12-11
Red point
Judah
7C+ Boulder at CSX Boulders
4th day total. Felt rather easier in 40 degrees compared to 70. Solid v10 nonetheless, D&G is unquestionably V11 and goddamn was I close to sticking the crux from the start. Finger be damned.
CSX Boulders 7c+ Red point
2017-11-19
2017-11-19
Red point
Calypso
7A+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
Great holds to a funky finish
Holy Boulders 7a+ Red point
2017-11-19
2017-11-19
Red point
Bubble Wrap
7A+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
Eff this boulder. 1 stupid move to a few fun moves. Should dig a foot of dirt out to make this better, can't believe I said it.
Holy Boulders 7b+ (7a+) Red point
2017-11-17
2017-11-17
Red point
Monkey Sector, Unnamed 01
6C+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Next to Knuckledragger. Took me several goes, great problem.
South Side Boulders 6c+ Red point
2017-11-17
2017-11-17
Red point
Knuckledragger
7B Boulder at South Side Boulders
Surprisingly cool 1.5 mover (boulder up and to the left of Monkey at southside).
South Side Boulders 7b Red point
2017-11-15
2017-11-15
2nd Red point
The Pelican
7C+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Totally different beta than McNeil on the F.A. I certainly could not do his beta, he may be too tall to do mine. Great line! Cleaning up Nutallburg . . .
Nuttallburg Boulders 7c+ 2nd Red point
2017-11-15
2017-11-15
Red point
The Tipple
7B+ Boulder at CSX Boulders
What a boulder, although can't say I'm a fan of the conglomerate. Been wanting to do this for a longgggg time.
CSX Boulders 7b+ Red point
2017-11-14
2017-11-14
Red point
Battle of the Bulge
7B Boulder at Karnage Crag Boulders
Karnage Crag Boulders 7b Red point
2017-11-14
2017-11-14
Red point
Poster Child
7A+ Boulder at Karnage Crag Boulders
Welcome to Carnage.
Karnage Crag Boulders 7a+ Red point
2017-11-14
2017-11-14
Red point
Flesh Cycle
7C Boulder at Karnage Crag Boulders
Atypical for the dries, such lovely crimps.
Karnage Crag Boulders 7c Red point
2017-10-25
2017-10-25
Red point
F3
7B Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
One mover, big slap up left. Lukas killed Season's Change ded
Needleseye Boulders 7b Red point
2017-10-25
2017-10-25
2nd Flash
Minden, Unnamed 01
6A Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
Dang good easier line, maybe 2nd ascent?
Needleseye Boulders 6a 2nd Flash
2017-10-25
2017-10-25
FA Red point
Minden, Unnamed 02
7A+ Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
Cool line except first move. Maybe fa? Corridor right by Death Rattle.
Needleseye Boulders 7a+ FA Red point
2017-10-24
2017-10-24
Red point
Fleetwood Mac, Unnamed 01
6C+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Fun one in the corner.
Nuttallburg Boulders 6c+ Red point
2017-10-24
2017-10-24
FA Red point
Go Your Own Way
7B+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Fun little 2 mover. Maybe v9? Had to crimp pretty hard. What a grand bloc.
Nuttallburg Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2017-10-24
2017-10-24
FA Red point
New River Glow
7B+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Shorty with beautiful rock, catches the golden hour light. Starts matched on the rail. Roof projects up the hill gonna be dope! 8/9? Edit: Roof projects are anything but dope :-(
Nuttallburg Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2017-10-24
2017-10-24
Red point
Say That You Love Me
7B Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Damn good climb. Water rose all quick-like. 2x for good measure.
Nuttallburg Boulders 7b Red point
2017-10-15
2017-10-15
Red point
Wingman
7A+ Boulder at 41 Boulders
Unquestionably out of my element, unquestionably superb.
41 Boulders 7a+ Red point
2017-10-01
2017-10-01
2nd Red point
Minden, Unnamed 03
7A+ Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
2nd go after slipping on the 1st move. Great flow, some big moves but still girl friendly, another classic in the making.
Needleseye Boulders 7a+ 2nd Red point
2017-10-01
2017-10-01
Flash
Bonnie and Clyde
6A+ Boulder at Needleseye Boulders
V3 I think? Maybe 4. New lines, new faces, the future of the New.
Needleseye Boulders 6a+ Flash
2017-09-29
2017-09-29
Red point
Humpty Hump
6B+ Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
2nd go, flash stolen by the yellow jacket that landed on my left hand. Dabby but fun.
Short Creek Boulders 6b+ Red point
2017-09-28
2017-09-28
2nd Red point
Original Sin
Crimps. And the first of a final batch of unrepeated problems falls. Suspect my beta differed drastically from the 1st ascent . . . suspect closer to low end V11, falling just under Megamite in difficulty and just above Beauty in the Beatdown. Almost fell going to the jug! Perhaps fitting for my 500th documented boulder.
Summersville Dam Boulders 8a 2nd Red point
2017-09-03
2017-09-03
2nd Red point
Sacred Grounds, Unnamed 01
6C+ Boulder at Foxtown
Shorty. Mark Osbourne FA
Foxtown 6c+ 2nd Red point
2017-09-03
2017-09-03
FA Red point
KY Jealous
7A+ Boulder at Foxtown
Thanks for showing the way Kipp! 2nd go . . . still missing that elusive flash FA.
Foxtown 7a+ FA Red point
2017-08-06
2017-08-06
FA Red point
There for the Taking
7B+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Been looking for the window of opportunity on this beauty for quite some time . . . and for it to be in August! This boulder has quite a bit more left to give!
Nuttallburg Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2017-08-06
2017-08-06
FA Red point
Ripe for the Picking
7B+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
It's there. Cool patina holds at any rate. Straddle the boulder for the start.
Nuttallburg Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2017-08-06
2017-08-06
FA Red point
Of Things to Come
7B+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Struggle fest in the heat. A bajillion rafts and boaters. Did not anticipate this line, it materialized as I sought any way to get my ass off the ground. Left lines hold some serious hard-stuff potential. Nutallburg may be the best at the New? Carnage? Psych is higher than ever for this upcoming season!
Nuttallburg Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2017-06-07
2017-06-07
2nd Red point
Brunch Life
7C Boulder at Fern Creek Boulders
Nearly a 1 move wonder, if not for the unnerving topout. Took 3 total sessions to put down, only stuck the 1st move two times in that. Beautiful line, beautiful setting. Scary solo! Expect this will get some more love with video, a cleaner top and revamped landing.
Fern Creek Boulders 7c 2nd Red point
2017-06-06
2017-06-06
2nd Red point
Power Puffed Pastry
7C Boulder at 41 Boulders
Crazy looking rock, can't say I've seen anything quite like it. Fun climbing, awesome that the more complex sequence ends up being far easier than attempting to brute force out the roof. Low in the grade.
41 Boulders 7c 2nd Red point
2017-06-06
2017-06-06
2nd Red point
Spiritual Medicine
7C Boulder at 41 Boulders
Spectacular. Big, powerful moves that are all just a little farther and a little harder than you want them to be. Another great addition by Cox!
41 Boulders 7c 2nd Red point
2017-06-06
2017-06-06
Red point
Slappy Go Lucky
7B+ Boulder at 41 Boulders
Lots of different betas but all cool. Nice refrigerator block. Almost lost Cox on his attempt at the repeat!
41 Boulders 7b+ Red point
2017-03-23
2017-03-23
Red point
Beauty Mountain Beatdown
8A Boulder at Substation Boulders
This line inspired some more pointless musings: 3rd day on this thing, but only 3 goes today in good temps. Felt like a harder v10, feels far easier move to move compared to Megamite, just happens to have the crux moves 10 moves in 15 feet up. Great flow and progression, only marred by some sharpness. Scared myself on the topout! Couldn't seal the deal on anything else today. Gonna have to start giving love to the problems that are my anti-style!
Substation Boulders 7c+ (8a) Red point
2017-03-08
2017-03-08
Red point
Nuttallburg, Unnamed 01
6C+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Mediocre. Good looking, less-so-climbing boulder to left of Conflicted.
Nuttallburg Boulders 6c+ Red point
2017-03-08
2017-03-08
FA Red point
Conflicted
7C Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
The best yet of Nutallburg? Mega team effort fixing up the landing, clearing out the sit and sussing her out. Pardo with the clutch beta to unlock the send. Worth the 2 days waiting in the rain!
Nuttallburg Boulders 7c FA Red point
2017-02-27
2017-02-27
FA Red point
Barrel Aged
7C Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Beautiful orange rock that is both surprisingly featured and surprisingly tricky to figure out. Likely V9 although admittedly took a while to fine tune the beta and went in a couple goes after this was locked in. Definitely multiple alternate beta options, not a clean line by any means which does detract from the overall quality. Nutallburg is freakin' loaded. Thanks to Roper and Klinger for taking me out, as always!
Nuttallburg Boulders 7c FA Red point
2017-02-27
2017-02-27
FA Red point
Night Cap
7B+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
So. Good. Hail Mary end of the day send, and damn was it worth it. Really like the compression style climbing on this one.
Nuttallburg Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2017-02-27
2017-02-27
FA Red point
Tall, Dark and Handsome
7B+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
What the hell. This is pure insanity. Immaculate white rock with subtle crimps up the middle of a 20 foot face with a clean landing and jug for the topout. Up there with the finest of anywhere, much less the New. Gotta thank Roper for taking me up there and for help with cleaning her up. V8 or V9?
Nuttallburg Boulders 7b+ FA Red point
2017-02-27
2017-02-27
2nd Red point
In Series
7B Boulder at Substation Boulders
Sounds like I we were beaten to this by Goodman, previously "Co-F.A. with Cox. Really quite good movement with some serious adventure climbing up high."
Substation Boulders 7b 2nd Red point
2017-02-24
2017-02-24
Red point
Mega Mite
8A Boulder at Cotton Bottom Boulders
This boulder is amazingly complex for such a short distance, crazy how you have to do so many moves that are all more-or-less forced. Serious props to Scurfield for figuring it out. Not a mega-classic by NRG standards but certainly has its place. 3 total days to put it down, punted off the last move twice on day 2 and again once on day 3. Didn't think I was gonna pull it off, been a while since I was this beat up by a boulder. Certainly a step above anything else I've done at the New and deserving of the 11 I suspect.
Cotton Bottom Boulders 8a Red point
2017-02-18
2017-02-18
Red point
Axolotl
7C+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
McNeil with key foot wedge/hand jam beta to make this a reality. Awesome movement, unfortunately marred by a singular sandy right hand crimp. About 3 minutes after the F.A., Taylor wasn't even off the boulder yet.
South Side Boulders 7c+ Red point
2017-02-15
2017-02-15
Red point
Pace Maker
7B Boulder at Substation Boulders
Meh
Substation Boulders 7b Red point
2017-02-15
2017-02-15
Red point
Heart Breaker
7B+ Boulder at Substation Boulders
Missed the grade on this one. Great climb tho!
Substation Boulders 7b (7b+) Red point
2017-02-15
2017-02-15
Red point
Resistor
7B+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Barely held it. Another stunner.
Blue Hole Boulders 7b+ Red point
2017-02-14
2017-02-14
FA Red point
Algorithmic
7C+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Absolutely outrageous. King of kings. Redemption after hurting my heel.
Blue Hole Boulders 7c+ FA Red point
2017-02-14
2017-02-14
Flash
Blue Hole, Unnamed 01
6C+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Dang good crimp line
Blue Hole Boulders 6c+ Flash
2017-02-13
2017-02-13
FA Red point
Master Chief
7B Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
That rock tho. Fantastic traverse.
Nuttallburg Boulders 7b FA Red point
2017-02-13
2017-02-13
Red point
Coal Hearted
7B+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Not classic NRG but a classic nonetheless
Nuttallburg Boulders 7b+ Red point
2017-02-13
2017-02-13
Red point
"Bigley Shortly"
6C+ Boulder at Nuttallburg Boulders
Awaiting a name. 1 mover.
Nuttallburg Boulders 6c+ Red point
2017-02-05
2017-02-05
Red point
Walden
8A+ Boulder at Rockcastle
Fun movement, reminiscent of the Law but with a redpoint crux jump to the jug. Thought this was really hard til I came to it fresh. Still difficult but certainly more approachable, maybe even to the range of soft V10 . . . Cleaning the topout = totally worth it
Rockcastle 7c+ (8a+) Red point
2017-01-27
2017-01-27
Red point
Fisher Sauce
7C Boulder at Rockcastle
No eggs in the nest this go around. Climbing is quite lovely. Quick but had to repeat cuz I effed up the camera the 1st time
Rockcastle 7c Red point
2017-01-02
2017-01-02
FA Red point
Ravenous
Crimp project straight up from the Sweet Baby Ray's start. Ironic that my first hard-ish NRG F.A. is a drop-off. Soft 10?
Barbecue Babies Cave Bouldering 7c+ FA Red point
2016-12-31
2016-12-31
Red point
Bed of Nails
7B+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Monumental boulder with some burly moves. Gotta say, this is probably the chossiest boulder I've climbed on at the New.
Blue Hole Boulders 7b+ Red point
2016-12-21
2016-12-21
Red point
Master of Manipulation
7C+ Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
A perfect boulder? It really is that good. Has to be harder if your shorter. Projects gotta go!
Fern Point Boulders 7c+ Red point
2016-12-10
2016-12-10
Flash
Country Club, Unnamed 03
6B+ Boulder at Country Club Boulders
Country Club Boulders 6b+ Flash
2016-12-10
2016-12-10
Flash
Country Club, Unnamed 02
6A+ Boulder at Country Club Boulders
Rock is sparkly
Country Club Boulders 6a+ Flash
2016-12-10
2016-12-10
Red point
Country Club, Unnamed 01
7B Boulder at Country Club Boulders
Pretty fun, didn't think I'd be able to pull the span. 3rd ascent?
Country Club Boulders 7b Red point
2016-12-10
2016-12-10
Red point
Better than turkey
7B+ Boulder at Country Club Boulders
Blew the flash on the last move . . . which is the crux I suppose. The flow
Country Club Boulders 7b+ Red point
2016-12-09
2016-12-09
Red point
California Candy Extension
7B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
First go after the original. 7 or 8?
South Side Boulders 7b+ Red point
2016-12-09
2016-12-09
Flash
Don't Feed the Monkey
6C+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
The rail of all rails.
South Side Boulders 6c+ Flash
2016-12-09
2016-12-09
2nd Flash
Rambling Man
7A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Clean, beautiful, tall.
South Side Boulders 7a+ 2nd Flash
2016-12-09
2016-12-09
Flash
California Candy
7B Boulder at South Side Boulders
South Side Boulders 7b Flash
2016-11-16
2016-11-16
Flash
Dark Passenger
7B+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
7/8 or soft 8? Fun progression, 2 boulders with a rest! Beautiful boulder
Blue Hole Boulders 7b+ Flash
2016-11-16
2016-11-16
Flash
Sky High
4 Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Boom. And so Blue Hole begins.
Blue Hole Boulders 4 Flash
2016-11-16
2016-11-16
Red point
Entropy
6B+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Holy shit.
Blue Hole Boulders 6b+ Red point
2016-11-16
2016-11-16
Flash
Arete on X
6A+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Clean arete, fun line!
Blue Hole Boulders 6a+ Flash
2016-11-16
2016-11-16
Red point
Mantle on Crack
6C+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Blew the flash, crazy transition for the topout.
Blue Hole Boulders 6c+ Red point
2016-11-16
2016-11-16
Red point
Royal Blue
7B+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Had to dig out the pile of driftwood. So good. Been waiting to do this for a loonnngggg time!
Blue Hole Boulders 7b+ Red point
2016-11-16
2016-11-16
Flash
The Payoff
7C+ Boulder at Blue Hole Boulders
Flash and repeated again 2 goes later. So freaking good, certainly a King Line. 3rd ascent after 6 years? Hard to believe I'd flash 10, but time will tell. Blue Hole is amazing.
Blue Hole Boulders 7c (7c+) Flash
2016-11-15
2016-11-15
Red point
Unnamed V7
7B Boulder at South Side Boulders
Really good! Love the real mantle.
South Side Boulders 7b Red point
2016-11-15
2016-11-15
Flash
Unnamed V4
6B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
South Side Boulders 6b+ Flash
2016-11-15
2016-11-15
Red point
Unnamed V6
7A+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
South Side Boulders 7a+ Red point
2016-11-15
2016-11-15
2nd Red point
F.U.P.A.
7B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Meh. 2nd after Dan. Soft?
South Side Boulders 7b+ 2nd Red point
2016-10-23
2016-10-23
Flash
Badass
6C+ Boulder at CSX Boulders
One biggg move
CSX Boulders 6c+ Flash
2016-10-22
2016-10-22
Red point
The Raven
7B+ Boulder at CSX Boulders
Big, fun moves. Gotta clean up the left trending line!
CSX Boulders 7b+ Red point
2016-10-16
2016-10-16
FA Red point
Pappy Van Winkle
7B Boulder at BMW Boulders
Proud line, might just be the best boulder in Kentucky. Also did a couple easy lines over in Rehab sector that I don't know the name of. 1 point for the fear factor ;-)
BMW Boulders 7b FA Red point
2016-10-08
2016-10-08
Red point
Megatron
7C Boulder at Lilly boulders
Contrivance of sorts but mega-fun
Lilly boulders 7c Red point
2016-10-08
2016-10-08
Red point
Dungeon
7C Boulder at Lilly boulders
Ugh the 1st move. Lisa's drop knee beta atw. Would be a 1 mover if not for the finish. I guess it's fun after nabbing the 1st hold. Maybe 8?
Lilly boulders 7c Red point
2016-10-08
2016-10-08
Red point
Night Stalker
6C+ Boulder at Lilly boulders
Hard as shit for v5. Couldn't do Ripper
Lilly boulders 6c+ Red point
2016-10-08
2016-10-08
Flash
Power Rangers
7A+ Boulder at Lilly boulders
V6 is probably right. Lovely holds. No topout cuz it was dirty as
Lilly boulders 7a+ Flash
2016-09-29
2016-09-29
Red point
Powerplant, Unnamed 01
6C+ Boulder at Power Plant Boulders
Blunt arete on the main boulder at Powerplant with the tenuous moves up high. Sooo good.
Power Plant Boulders 6c+ Red point
2016-09-29
2016-09-29
Flash
Operation Dumbo Drop
7A+ Boulder at Power Plant Boulders
Great movement. Hard for V6?
Power Plant Boulders 7a+ Flash
2016-09-29
2016-09-29
Red point
The Reach Around
7A+ Boulder at Power Plant Boulders
So good. Techy say what? Probably V7
Power Plant Boulders 7a+ Red point
2016-09-29
2016-09-29
Red point
Powerplant, Unnamed 02
7A+ Boulder at Power Plant Boulders
Did not think I was gonna make the last move. Mega fun. Also did the stand to the problem to the right.
Power Plant Boulders 7a+ Red point
2016-09-28
2016-09-28
Red point
Soap Drop
6A+ Boulder at Summersville Dam Boulders
Fun
Summersville Dam Boulders 6a+ Red point
2016-09-28
2016-09-28
Red point
Encore
So good. Fear factor, amazing movement and holds. From the sit. Almost punted twice at the top. Felt like V8 to me.
Summersville Dam Boulders 7b+ (7b) Red point
2016-09-28
2016-09-28
Red point
Pizza Slice
7B+ Boulder at Summersville Dam Boulders
Goddamn. 3 tries?
Summersville Dam Boulders 7b+ Red point
2016-09-27
2016-09-27
FA Red point
Reciprocal Change
6B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Co FA with Roper and Love. Better than the right line.
South Side Boulders 6b+ FA Red point
2016-09-27
2016-09-27
2nd Red point
Harambe
7B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Left line on the Monkey boulder in Southside Meadow area. Holy shenanigans, this problem is the full package. Brilliant moves, beautiful face. Another Roper stunner. Hope the right line topout goes . . .
South Side Boulders 7b+ 2nd Red point
2016-09-27
2016-09-27
FA Red point
Pulsus Paradoxus
7B Boulder at South Side Boulders
One hard move then a fun climb up the rail. Across from Heart rate arete.
South Side Boulders 7b FA Red point
2016-09-27
2016-09-27
Red point
Heart Rate Arete
6B+ Boulder at South Side Boulders
Not a whole lot of good slabs at the New!
South Side Boulders 6c+ (6b+) Red point
2016-05-07
2016-05-07
Flash
Flexorcise
7A+ Boulder at Lilly boulders
Flexorcise started on the sloping holds, not using the iron edges.
Lilly boulders 7a+ Flash
2016-05-06
2016-05-06
Red point
Johnson City
7C Boulder at Lilly boulders
Sweet rig, I climbed a mega-hard beta version cuz I couldn't conceivably make the huge span for the normal 1st move. Maybe V10 the beta I used? Wish the top wasn't dirty so I coulda topped her out.
Lilly boulders 7c Red point
2016-04-17
2016-04-17
Flash
11:11
7B Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
6/7?
Rumbling Bald, NC 7b Flash
2016-04-17
2016-04-17
Red point
Patio Roof
7B+ Boulder at Rumbling Bald, NC
Fun holding the swing.
Rumbling Bald, NC 7b+ Red point
2016-04-11
2016-04-11
Flash
Gin and Seven
7B Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
Nice sequence but sharppppp
Fern Point Boulders 7b Flash
2016-04-11
2016-04-11
Red point
Fire Roof
7B Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
Worked hard for the finish mantle, may have cut out extra early and added more difficulty. Kinda awkward at the end.
Fern Point Boulders 7b Red point
2016-04-11
2016-04-11
2nd Red point
Wilhelm Scream
7C Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
Lots of thoughts arose from this problem. First off, great vision, not sure I would have noticed this clean line sitting tucked next to the mega- project. Pretty sure there is a low start, right hand on left facing gaston/crimp, left hand on slopey pinch . . . or a low-low start down and left. Both would be hard and perhaps lower the quality of the original. And speaking of projects, the dreamcatcher line looks like it should go and not even be that hard! Need to get a good crew out there one day and have it padded up. In regards to the grade, was able to do Whilhelm 2nd try after trying with a higher right foot, managed to do it 2x back to back. After getting a good spanking on M.O.M., I suspect this is closer to an 8 than a 10. Time will tell. 2nd?
Fern Point Boulders 7b+ (7c) 2nd Red point
2016-04-10
2016-04-10
2nd Red point
Brass Knuckles
7C+ Boulder at Hawk's Nest Boulders
Finally got a chance to get on this and black pocket! Been waiting a lonngggg time for the water to happen to be low . . . and in spring no less? Unexpected sequence. Low end 9?
Hawk's Nest Boulders 7c (7c+) 2nd Red point
2016-04-10
2016-04-10
2nd Red point
Black Pocket
8A Boulder at Hawk's Nest Boulders
Woah. A perfect boulder problem? Props to Spruill on another gem. Don't think it quite warrants the v11 grade, soft v10 (or easier?) might be more appropriate. 2nd?
Hawk's Nest Boulders 7c+ (8a) 2nd Red point
2016-04-03
2016-04-03
Red point
Appalachian Arithmetic
7B+ Boulder at Genocide Boulders
Finally was dry! Fun one. Hard for 8?
Genocide Boulders 7b+ Red point
2016-04-03
2016-04-03
Red point
The Gobbler
7B+ Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
Tis okay. Way more chill with a left foot backstep then the crazy square to the wall beta.
Short Creek Boulders 7b (7b+) Red point
2016-04-02
2016-04-02
Red point
Flipping Switches
7C Boulder at Teay's Boulders
Beautiful boulder, got my revenge.
Teay's Boulders 7c Red point
2016-04-02
2016-04-02
Red point
T.K.O.
7C+ Boulder at Sunshine Boulders
Rapped off and found the crucial hold. Blew the send the go before I finished her off by whiffing it to the jug. Amazing progression of moves in an outrageous setting. It just might not get better than this.
Sunshine Boulders 7c (7c+) Red point
2016-04-01
2016-04-01
Red point
Chesticular Fortitude
7C Boulder at Meadow Top Boulders
Technical, consistently hard with a killer finishing move. Fantastic boulder. Felt damn hard to me, but then again I don't stick to the patina worth a damn.
Meadow Top Boulders 7c Red point
2016-01-29
2016-01-29
Red point
Jack Slap Sit
7B+ Boulder at Lilly boulders
Did two variations from the sit, one straight up through the crimps which is probs v7, and one out left, then up with right hand on the big right facing rail which is probably V8. Contrivance either way, both are dabby and nothing special :-(
Lilly boulders 7b+ Red point
2016-01-29
2016-01-29
Red point
Slam Dunk
6C Boulder at Lilly boulders
Fatty moves.
Lilly boulders 6c Red point
2016-01-28
2016-01-28
Red point
Young and Unruly
7B+ Boulder at Lilly boulders
Wet. Thrutchy crux move for me; neat sequence
Lilly boulders 7b+ Red point
2016-01-28
2016-01-28
Red point
Mojo
7C Boulder at Lilly boulders
Quite good, even with the jug in the middle being soaked. Broke ice chunks off of it before drying with chalk. Best I've tried at the Lilly boulders so far.
Lilly boulders 7b+ (7c) Red point
2016-01-28
2016-01-28
Red point
O.P.P
7A+ Boulder at Lilly boulders
This would be kitten soft for V7
Lilly boulders 7a+ Red point
2016-01-02
2016-01-02
Red point
Enter the Ninja
7C Boulder at Cotton Bottom Boulders
Asterisk for using alternate starting holds. Right hand on left of the two underclings and left hand on a bad gaston just above. Couldn't get off the ground any other way. Low in the grade, high in the fear factor.
Cotton Bottom Boulders 7c Red point
2016-01-01
2016-01-01
Red point
Dial 411
7B Boulder at Fern Creek Boulders
Dried out on the flash. A bit heady, great movement!
Fern Creek Boulders 7b Red point
2016-01-01
2016-01-01
Red point
Is it Organic?
7B Boulder at Fern Creek Boulders
Ugh, awkward
Fern Creek Boulders 7b Red point
2015-12-31
2015-12-31
Red point
Old Men Can't Jump
7A+ Boulder at Meadow Top Boulders
Cool 1 mover!
Meadow Top Boulders 7a+ Red point
2015-12-31
2015-12-31
Red point
Gaston LeGume
7C Boulder at Meadow Top Boulders
Questionable end beta, used a tiny crimp in the face instead of jumping all the way to the last jug. A contrivance of contrivances.
Meadow Top Boulders 7c Red point
2015-12-31
2015-12-31
Red point
The MacGuffin
6C+ Boulder at Meadow Top Boulders
Meadow Top Boulders 6c+ Red point
2015-12-20
2015-12-20
Red point
California Condor
7B+ Boulder at Hawk's Nest Boulders
Mind. Blown. Big boulder, big, flowing moves plus a scare factor with limited pads. Takes Hawk's Nest from a good to a great collection of boulders.
Hawk's Nest Boulders 7b+ Red point
2015-12-20
2015-12-20
Flash
Gymnastic Fantastic
6A Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
Best V2 at the New . . . or ever?
Short Creek Boulders 6a Flash
2015-11-28
2015-11-28
Red point
Catch and Release
7A+ Boulder at Teay's Boulders
Cool campus moves. Might be hard for a v6 climber.
Teay's Boulders 7a+ Red point
2015-11-28
2015-11-28
Red point
Leave No Trace
7A+ Boulder at Teay's Boulders
Teay's Boulders 7a+ Red point
2015-06-01
2015-06-01
Red point
Clear Blue Skies
8A Boulder at Mt. Evans
Redemption. Slow repeat of the individual moves after a 3 year hiatus and then 2 quick tries from the start sealed the deal. Progress! So glad Lisa came out on this snow-venturous day. Epic hike in . . . had to carry the not so small puppy across the talus field.
Mt. Evans 8a Red point
2015-05-30
2015-05-30
Red point
Jousting at Windmill
7C+ Boulder at Poudre Canyon, CO
*Asterisk on this one. Spotter dab on my foot as it was swinging out as I stuck the move to the finish jug. As such, I didn't technically send, but I don't have enough time to care. Would definitely be on the hard end of 9, but it was damn hot and it took me a bit to settle on beta.
Poudre Canyon, CO 7c (7c+) Red point
2015-05-29
2015-05-29
Red point
One Ton Ho
7C Boulder at Poudre Canyon
Kinda liked it, but I also didn't use the right heel. What a crazy boulder, just sitting there all by itself.
Poudre Canyon 7c Red point
2015-05-29
2015-05-29
Flash
King Fin
6B+ Boulder at Poudre Canyon
Great movement and cool holds, except I climbed it like an eliminate, not using the jug flake out left. Dunno if this is on or not . . .
Poudre Canyon 6b+ Flash
2015-05-27
2015-05-27
Red point
Lonestar (aka Stinkbug)
7C+ Boulder at Stinkbug
Two in a day! Been a long time since that happened. Seriously tho, everything I've been getting on is out of this world.
Stinkbug 7c+ Red point
2015-05-27
2015-05-27
Red point
Get Over It Sit-Start
8A Boulder at Big Elk Meadows
V11. 1st try 2nd day this time around (5th day total at this boulder over 5 years?) The 2nd move is super fun to stick, so glad I could link this together! Only the best. Stand on 5-8-2011 "From the stand. Shoulda done this the 1st trip, 7ish goes this time around. Feels like hard sandstone topouts from TN."
Big Elk Meadows 8a Red point
2015-05-27
2015-05-27
Red point
Double Trouble
7A+ Boulder at Big Elk Meadows
Not particularly sharp despite other "reviews." Some tech.
Big Elk Meadows 7a+ Red point
2015-05-27
2015-05-27
Red point
Campus Problem
6C+ Boulder at Big Elk Meadows
V6? Baller kneebar. Was a bit damp.
Big Elk Meadows 6c+ Red point
2015-05-23
2015-05-23
Red point
The Donut Thief
POWA. 6am session! Slippery holds. Again, feels a bit incomplete without the sit moves, but they wear me out! I will have to return.
Rocky Mountain National Park 7c Red point
2015-05-18
2015-05-18
Red point
Puffing Stone
6C+ Boulder at Poudre Canyon
Felt no easier/harder than Scarface, Scuba Steve and Merlin.
Poudre Canyon 7a+ (6c+) Red point
2015-05-18
2015-05-18
Red point
Merlin
7B Boulder at Poudre Canyon
Disappointing actually. Beautiful climb but it is a legit 1-move wonder. Can't say this would be a good project for anyone.
Poudre Canyon 7a+ (7b) Red point
2015-05-18
2015-05-18
Red point
Scuba Steve 
7A+ Boulder at Poudre Canyon
I liked it! Still mostly a one mover, although I could see some having troubles with the lockoff before the topout. Used a right toe hook to pull of the ground and do the 1st move to the small crimp out right. On par with Puffing Stone, Merlin, Scarface.
Poudre Canyon 7a+ Red point
2015-05-18
2015-05-18
Red point
Scarface
7A+ Boulder at Poudre Canyon
Another 1-mover. 2nd-go . . . and a day of no flashes O.o
Poudre Canyon 7a+ Red point
2015-05-18
2015-05-18
Red point
Divergence
7C Boulder at Poudre Canyon
Pretty sharp! Used a mega-high right foot for the 1st move. Feels incomplete without the sit, but didn't have time or energy to add in the couple of starting moves.
Poudre Canyon 7c Red point
2015-05-17
2015-05-17
Red point
Veritas Sit-Start
8A Boulder at Veritas
This thing is soooooo good. Amazing moves, and certainly committing being solo. Glad to finally climb something friendly on the skin. What a difference it makes being cold.
Veritas 8a Red point
2015-05-17
2015-05-17
Red point
Menwax
7A+ Boulder at Veritas
I dig. Cool tick-tacky movement. Don't think I'll ever be able to do the 10, much less Vertias Low Left :-(
Veritas 7b (7a+) Red point
2015-05-15
2015-05-15
Red point
Botslayer
7C+ Boulder at Flagstaff Mountain
Ughhhh, so incomplete feeling. Punted off getting right hand established in the arête for SBS and ripped open a tip. Gonna have to go back!
Flagstaff Mountain 7c+ Red point
2015-05-02
2015-05-02
Flash
Dopey
6C+ Boulder at Fern Creek Boulders
Beautiful wall!
Fern Creek Boulders 7a+ (6c+) Flash
2015-05-02
2015-05-02
Red point
Sleestak
7A+ Boulder at Fern Creek Boulders
Fern Creek Boulders 7a+ Red point
2015-04-21
2015-04-21
Red point
Replacement Killers
7C+ Boulder at Boulder Canyon
Ridiculous approach in the snow and a personal epic with this boulder. Reworked the moves pretty quickly and tried to flip the switch for the send burn but one crimp got wet for the next hour as the tiny bit of ice/snow I hadn't cleaned off the boulder melted. Final last ditch effort after it dried up sealed the deal! Great problem, only negative is the dab factor.
Boulder Canyon 7c+ Red point
2015-04-20
2015-04-20
Red point
Right Eliminator Prow
6B Boulder at Horsetooth Reservoir
Dunno what the offical start is. Stood up into the left hand jug then continued onward. Did straight up eliminator for Elim SDS.
Horsetooth Reservoir 6b+ (6b) Red point
2015-04-20
2015-04-20
Red point
Moon Arête
7C+ Boulder at Horsetooth Reservoir
Beautiful boulder, beautiful day as the fog cleared. If only I had time and weather to legit project the low! One day . . .
Horsetooth Reservoir 7c (7c+) Red point
2015-04-20
2015-04-20
Red point
Eliminator Sit-Start
8A Boulder at Horsetooth Reservoir
With some different beta shown to me the 1st time at this boulder and my own foot beta, the sit start seemed -way- easier than the classic close in compression nonsense. Just a bit stretchy.
Horsetooth Reservoir 7c+ (8a) Red point
2015-04-15
2015-04-15
Red point
Animal
7C Boulder at Clear Creek Canyon
Great line! Perfect for my trashed skin. OG beta, although my foot cut on the move to the lip probably would have been a dab before the rock was moved.
Clear Creek Canyon 7c Red point
2015-04-15
2015-04-15
Red point
Maverick
7A Boulder at Clear Creek Canyon
Best V5 in CO? Took a nasty fall on the flash go. This boulder is just that good.
Clear Creek Canyon 7a Red point
2015-04-15
2015-04-15
Red point
41st Street
7B+ Boulder at Clear Creek Canyon
As good as Maverick is, this problem is bad. Mega-bad.
Clear Creek Canyon 7b (7b+) Red point
2015-04-13
2015-04-13
Red point
Resonated
7C Boulder at Eldorado Canyon
Stunning boulder. Great rec from Childers! Pretty funky beta that from my understanding is now possible due to a larger hold making it a (hard?) 8.
Eldorado Canyon 7b+ (7c) Red point
2015-04-13
2015-04-13
Red point
606
7C+ Boulder at Eldorado Canyon
Crimp test piece to the max! Blew the flash on the last hard move. Great movement on small, but not too sharp crimps. If only it wasn't so dabby with the one foot.
Eldorado Canyon 7c+ Red point
2015-04-13
2015-04-13
Red point
Horan Face
7A+ Boulder at Eldorado Canyon
A swell problem . . . hard to find good lines at this grade. 1st go, but had done 606 first. The approach is epic.
Eldorado Canyon 7a+ Red point
2015-04-13
2015-04-13
Red point
The Infinite 
7C Boulder at Eldorado Canyon
1.5 mover. Soft . . . except for the conglomerate which was way NOT soft. Blood blister be damned! A few goes, glad this stays out of the sun 'til early afternoon!
Eldorado Canyon 7c Red point
2015-04-13
2015-04-13
Red point
Pigdog
7B Boulder at East Draw
V6 accepted grade? 1st go, but had done The Infinite first. Descended in a cloud of grasshoppers.
East Draw 7a+ (7b) Red point
2015-04-11
2015-04-11
Red point
Powaqqatsi
8A Boulder at Boulder Canyon
Great progression of moves and on you 'til the end! Glad Micah got me up here. Used the higher hold path; kinda a bastardization (variation?) of the original line, but this seemed like the path of least resistance. Sun, warmth, speed I did it . . . doubtful of 11 points for this var. Also, no "u" in the name.
Boulder Canyon 7c+ (8a) Red point
2015-04-10
2015-04-10
Red point
Undercling Traverse
7C Boulder at Flagstaff Mountain
Couldn't help myself, had to do this classic. I really like the movement! A fight at the end matching the last sloper. Certainly felt wayyy easier in 60s vs 80s, even if I'm weaker.
Flagstaff Mountain 7c Red point
2015-04-08
2015-04-08
Red point
Ghost King SDS
7C Boulder at Matthew Winters Park, CO
Soft. Flashed Ghost King from the two small crimps then added the sit moves in a couple tries later! Pretty cool line, big pulls on good holds. Oy on Purity :-/
Matthew Winters Park, CO 7c Red point
2015-04-06
2015-04-06
Red point
Hardboiled
7C+ Boulder at Boulder Canyon
I really like this climb, pretty technical. I think each kneebar drops the grade by a point . . . I don't fit in the 2nd kneebar. First double digit in a while. Hope there is more to come!
Boulder Canyon 7c+ Red point
2015-04-01
2015-04-01
Red point
Zero G
6C+ Boulder at Satellites
Repeat. Rough.
Satellites 6c+ Red point
2015-04-01
2015-04-01
Flash
Flesh Fest
7C+ Boulder at Satellites
First V9 flash! The variation of course (not sticking to the arete). Although I am dubious of the grade . . . 1 move V9?
Satellites 7c (7c+) Flash
2015-04-01
2015-04-01
Red point
Grundel City Boy
7C+ Boulder at Satellites
Struggled on this one. May have dabbed my arm hair . . . it was that close. Climbs the best of anything in the Satellites, a shame it's in a hole.
Satellites 7c (7c+) Red point
2015-04-01
2015-04-01
Flash
Girlfriend's Backside
7A+ Boulder at Satellites
V7 is consistent with the grading of the other boulders in the Satellites. x2
Satellites 7a+ Flash
2015-03-28
2015-03-28
Red point
Onyx
7A+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
Topped out into Enlightenment.
Holy Boulders 7a+ Red point
2015-03-12
2015-03-12
Red point
Big Nose Milley
7C Boulder at North Mountain
Shoeless. Think I woulda struggled with shoes. Kinda close on Diaphanous . . . guess I'll be back in, err, 3+ years?
North Mountain 7c Red point
2015-03-10
2015-03-10
Red point
Black Mamba
7C+ Boulder at North Mountain
I dig it. 3 moves off of one foot and a topout. Goddamn I was greasing off the right hand.
North Mountain 7c (7c+) Red point
2015-03-10
2015-03-10
Red point
Mcbain
7B+ Boulder at North Mountain
PUMPED. If this is V8 so is Stegasaur and probs bloodline.
North Mountain 7b+ Red point
2015-03-10
2015-03-10
Red point
Dope Fiend Low
7C Boulder at North Mountain
Garggghh. Puntarific. Different at least.
North Mountain 7c Red point
2015-03-09
2015-03-09
Red point
Choir Boys
7C Boulder at North Mountain
Hueco to the core. Some of the best movement out there. Hard!
North Mountain 7c Red point
2015-03-06
2015-03-06
Red point
Rudy
7B Boulder at North Mountain
Ran outa time for King Cobra. Powa.
North Mountain 7b Red point
2015-03-06
2015-03-06
Flash
Denizen
6C+ Boulder at North Mountain
Only the best of the grade in Hueco . . .
North Mountain 6c+ Flash
2015-03-06
2015-03-06
Red point
Bloodline
7B+ Boulder at North Mountain
Started to the left on a nice flat, 2 hand edge . . . a couple moves into the water runnel. Loses a point for lack of topout, but damn what a stunner. Best friction in Hueco (at least for the hands) in that 7/8 range for this method.
North Mountain 7b (7b+) Red point
2015-03-06
2015-03-06
Red point
Stegasaur
7B+ Boulder at North Mountain
The spine sign. Struggled with this one, polished to the max. Feet first, of course . . . still felt 8ish to me.
North Mountain 7b+ Red point
2015-03-04
2015-03-04
Flash
Dilated Pupils
6B+ Boulder at North Mountain
Just swell
North Mountain 6b+ Flash
2015-03-04
2015-03-04
Red point
Double Vision
7B Boulder at North Mountain
Balls to the walls. Overgripped every damn hold outa fear. Suntay with the crazy fall onto the Yuca! Probs hard for 7.
North Mountain 7b Red point
2015-03-02
2015-03-02
Red point
Name Dropper
6A+ Boulder at North Mountain
Repeat. Fun.
North Mountain 6a+ Red point
2014-12-21
2014-12-21
Red point
Off The Rails
7C+ Boulder at Cowell
Fuck. This thing is absurdly good. Smooth like a baby's bottom. Topout was quite damp.
Cowell 7c (7c+) Red point
2014-12-21
2014-12-21
Red point
Center Splooge
7B+ Boulder at Cowell
Beautiful boulder. Fun taking some big awkward falls onto the cush landing. Not sure what the traditional beta is for this thing. What Gass figured out was reasonable for my height, tho quite stretched. Probably add a point for each inch your shorter than me and subtract one for anyone over 5'10'' or so. Will have to figure out the name of the thing on the backside of the boulder.
Cowell 7b+ Red point
2014-12-21
2014-12-21
Red point
Broken Earth
8A Boulder at Cowell
Props to whoever realized there was a line in the subtleness. Glad John remembered the odd start beta!
Cowell 7c (8a) Red point
2014-12-20
2014-12-20
Red point
Tang
7C+ Boulder at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Had fun working this one when everything else was wet. Extra Tangy, in fact. Added in the bonus move which takes it from suspect to solid for the grade. Unfortunately the foot for the extra start is flexing and will probably break one day. Once the standard way, once with the extra move.
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch 7c+ Red point
2014-12-19
2014-12-19
Red point
Buddy
7C+ Boulder at Cowell
Perty fun. Fred's roof be all wet and be all hard. HOLY FOGAGEDDON.
Cowell 7c+ Red point
2014-12-19
2014-12-19
Red point
Ab Lounge
7C Boulder at Cowell
Spectacular. What a beautiful boulder with quite the committing move to the arete. Could see this warranting more points if you don't go to the arete. Had to go back and get on it again!
Cowell 7b+ (7c) Red point
2014-12-17
2014-12-17
Red point
Orb Weaver
7B Boulder at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Climbs like an absolute turd. Most beautiful boulder in HCR with the crappiest rock. Took me a good deal of work, 7 points would not be consistent with the effort on other things in the Ranch.
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch 7b+ (7b) Red point
2014-12-16
2014-12-16
Red point
Flash Gordon
7C Boulder at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Did it two ways, one with my foot flipped out right on a jug . . . made it feel WAY easy, as the first to moves are not hard. Starting with L foot down on the rail for Anti-Hero is substantially more difficult, warranting 9 points . . . maybe. 2x
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch 7c Red point
2014-12-16
2014-12-16
Red point
Glass Bowl
7C+ Boulder at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
REDEMPTION. Gotta admit tho, of all the boulders to get to spend more time on, this is certainly a good one. Can't believe my finger can handle the mono! Gotta wonder if I would have done this long ago if I had been using the spray bottle before.
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch 7c+ Red point
2014-12-16
2014-12-16
Red point
Jeff's Prow
7C Boulder at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Took me by far the longest of any of the boulders this day, but sent just after figuring out shorter person beta! This must be casual for those tall enuf to use the far toe hook.
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch 7b+ (7c) Red point
2014-12-10
2014-12-10
Red point
Sweet Baby Ray's
That's a NEW one *snort*! Finger lock in a roof to a massive foot cut, swing move. Thanks to Roper for going out with me this nasty weather trip!
Barbecue Babies Cave Bouldering 7b Red point
2014-12-09
2014-12-09
Red point
Momma Direct
7B Boulder at Junkyard Cave Bouldering
Ughh, one of only two problems in this massive cave that seemed worth putting shoes on. Sharp left hand. Oooo gloooo.
Junkyard Cave Bouldering 7b Red point
2014-12-04
2014-12-04
2nd Red point
Meth Lab Genie
7C+ Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
Woah this thing is awesome, compression in a roof with mad body tension. My favorite line in the Ali Bubba Cave so far. Glad I snagged a send in the evening before the end got wet. 1st go from start on the 2nd day after a serious punt the previous trip. 2nd ascent?
Short Creek Boulders 7c+ 2nd Red point
2014-11-25
2014-11-25
Red point
Delta River Bleau
7A+ Boulder at CSX Left Boulders
Across the river at CSX, problem that jump starts at 8+ feet, high left heel, left hand to the vertical rail, etc. Quite fantastic, got the adrenaline going. Clean, stunning line!
CSX Left Boulders 7a+ Red point
2014-11-25
2014-11-25
Red point
Drum Circle
6B+ Boulder at CSX Boulders
Left most line on warm-up boulder (1st boulder you usually end up at after coming down the hill in CSX).
CSX Boulders 6a+ (6b+) Red point
2014-11-25
2014-11-25
Red point
Pyramid
6B+ Boulder at CSX Boulders
Right most line with wide feet (drop-knees) on warm-up boulder at CSX.
CSX Boulders 6c+ (6b+) Red point
2014-11-25
2014-11-25
Flash
Kokopelli
6C+ Boulder at CSX Boulders
Jump to a pinch then lip traverse to the left. Surprisingly good movement. Along the cliff line at CSX on side of river you park on, just down stream from warm-up boulder.
CSX Boulders 6c+ Flash
2014-11-25
2014-11-25
Red point
The Lorax
7C+ Boulder at CSX Left Boulders
Figured out some new beta at the top using a couple of small but good crimps, lightens it up quite a bit. Probably went from solid V11 to soft 10? Still a clean, beautiful wall, but slightly less cool beta than before. 2x
CSX Left Boulders 7c+ Red point
2014-11-09
2014-11-09
Red point
Slopey Seconds
7B Boulder at Coll's Cove
Beautiful line, climbs not as well as it could thanks to the large crimp in the face.
Coll's Cove 7b Red point
2014-11-09
2014-11-09
Red point
Stingray
7C Boulder at Coll's Cove
A stunner, but a touch less than stellar thanks to the 2nd move being both the hardest and most awkward move, with the rest being far easier. Still rad. The grade may be a stretch? Or the friction was just that good.
Coll's Cove 7c Red point
2014-11-02
2014-11-02
Red point
Who's Your Daddy
7A+ Boulder at Muscatatuck Park
Hoosier Daddy???? Definitely a top 5 in the Muscatatuck scene. Repeat from long ago, although I never topped it out before.
Muscatatuck Park 7a+ Red point
2014-10-26
2014-10-26
Red point
Cloud Nine
7A+ Boulder at Salt Fork Lake State Park
This is quite the line, especially give the relative paucity of rock in the area. Pretty sure it requires the jump. Hard for the grade?
Salt Fork Lake State Park 7a+ Red point
2014-10-19
2014-10-19
Red point
Masterlock
7C Boulder at Teay's Boulders
Might have been the sketchiest topout of my life, given the height of this boulder. Jumped off left hand in a seam crimp at ~6 feet up right to the sharp crimp to start. Not the best of the New, but still fun! 2 or 3 goes after finally figuring out the beta, but a good bit of working in total.
Teay's Boulders 7c Red point
2014-10-19
2014-10-19
Flash
C.P.J.
6C+ Boulder at Teay's Boulders
What a rad little boulder. Lisa was soooooooooooooooooooooo close! Next time!
Teay's Boulders 6c+ Flash
2014-10-19
2014-10-19
Flash
West Virginia Hot Pocket
7A+ Boulder at Teay's Boulders
Holy shit. This may be the best V6 in the world, I kid you not.
Teay's Boulders 7a+ Flash
2014-10-05
2014-10-05
Red point
Clockwork Orange
7A+ Boulder at Area 571 - RRG
Hardest I've fought for this grade in a while. Sustained to the max. Really fun, but it doesn't let up 'til you're mantled out.
Area 571 - RRG 7a+ Red point
2014-10-05
2014-10-05
Red point
Milk Eyed Mender
7B+ Boulder at Area 571 - RRG
Long, physical boulder! A lot of fun to climb and try hard on. Had to fight for this one. A shame the crimp to come out of the roof is so wet . . . ended up not using it at all after ass-planting off of it. Also didn't use the oval heuco at the start for a hand, this may make the start easier. Could be 5 stars if the rock was pristine.
Area 571 - RRG 7b+ Red point
2014-10-05
2014-10-05
Red point
Orbitalia
7B Boulder at Area 571 - RRG
Cool feature but ended up using a sharp crimp with right hand high up in the back crack to reach all the way out to the crimp on the face (as opposed to a powerful left shoulder move into the roof right undercling). Everything on this wall feels hard!
Area 571 - RRG 7b Red point
2014-10-05
2014-10-05
Flash
PC-7
6B+ Boulder at Area 571 - RRG
BIG move.
Area 571 - RRG 6b+ Flash
2014-09-21
2014-09-21
Red point
Mini Skull F@*k
6B+ Boulder at Cotton Bottom Boulders
Topped out straight up the right side of the boulder (right most seam down the boulder used for left hand). A real mantle, woot.
Cotton Bottom Boulders 6b+ Red point
2014-09-20
2014-09-20
Flash
Circle of Life
6B+ Boulder at Meadow Top Boulders
Tall-ish arete at start of the boulders, with some weirdly shaped holds and chicken heads for right foot toe/heel. Really fun, pretty damn good for the grade.
Meadow Top Boulders 6c+ (6b+) Flash
2014-09-20
2014-09-20
Red point
Chesticles
7C Boulder at Meadow Top Boulders
Nice clean line, although that start hold is a bit sketch. 3rd go (2nd from start). Sick flash by D Rush. Edit: Repeated on 4/1/2016 with new beta thanks to Kory, definitely drops it to solid v8.
Meadow Top Boulders 7b+ (7c) Red point
2014-09-20
2014-09-20
Red point
Mechanical Sensei
6C+ Boulder at Meadow Top Boulders
Problem on left of big roof with stab into a slot then out and around the left of the roof.
Meadow Top Boulders 6c+ Red point
2014-09-18
2014-09-18
FA Red point
Ivy League
7C+ Boulder at Muscatatuck Park
Project that climbs into Spider V4. Started R hand on slightly left facing undercling and L hand on small blocky pinch with a small notch in the bottom. Would be okay to start with L hand on larger flat hold one further out left. Managed to get pretty good conditions once the sun went behind the wall. Crimp was mostly dry. Topped this shit out into a sea of poison ivy and thorns. Hard 10. Dunno if this warrants the 11 grade.
Muscatatuck Park 7c+ FA Red point
2014-09-18
2014-09-18
Red point
Mother's Milk
7A+ Boulder at Muscatatuck Park
Repeat of many years ago. I use the left hand decent undercling, hop off the ground to a high right hand at ~10 feet, go up to the tiny sidepull crimp and to the top.
Muscatatuck Park 7a+ Red point
2014-09-18
2014-09-18
Red point
Red Hot Chili Pepper
7B Boulder at Muscatatuck Park
The phallus start hold broke off. Now enables a (very stretched out) sit start off a flat left hand undercling and a right 2 pad sidepull, first move right hand onto a large flat hold then a desperate move left to the jug. Rest of the problem climbs the same. Harder now cuz of the start. Solid V7+. Previously sent on 3/15/14: Repeat, although the loose block in the start fell out. Changes up the beta a bit. Started matched on the obvious phallic block and later used it for a toe hook which you couldn't do before.
Muscatatuck Park 7b Red point
2014-09-14
2014-09-14
Red point
Historian
6B+ Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
Stand start in corridor next to Fireproof Roof (Fern Point), just to the right of the stellar V6ish line before the big overhang. Oh how I love humidity.
Fern Point Boulders 6b+ Red point
2014-09-14
2014-09-14
Red point
Wide Grip
7B+ Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
1st line you come to when walking from Fireproof roof (Fern Point) into the corridor. Clean line, climbs a little less than stellar but still fun.
Fern Point Boulders 7b (7b+) Red point
2014-09-14
2014-09-14
Red point
Geometric Equation
7B+ Boulder at Fern Point Boulders
What an amazing problem! Physical to the max with such unique 3D climbing. Can't say I've ever done anything else remotely like it. Up there with Half Moon Tilt for best in the New. V8 I think. 2x.
Fern Point Boulders 7b+ Red point
2014-09-13
2014-09-13
Red point
Red is the New Black
7A+ Boulder at CSX Left Boulders
Lowball, dabtastic problem in first cluster of boulders when you cross the river at CSX. Starts hands on arete, foot out right, move R to a 2 finger pocket then slap to a slopey edge . . . underwhelming
CSX Left Boulders 7a+ Red point
2014-09-13
2014-09-13
Red point
Wishbone
6A+ Boulder at CSX Left Boulders
In first cluster of boulders after crossing the river in CSX. Starts in seam then up left to a couple crimps with last move right to a bucket jug at the lip. Lovely holds.
CSX Left Boulders 6a+ Red point
2014-05-18
2014-05-18
Red point
F5
7C+ Boulder at Fern Creek Boulders
Spectacular. Figured out a way to get to the lip without the huge span, certainly made it easier for me. 9/10
Fern Creek Boulders 7c (7c+) Red point
2014-05-18
2014-05-18
Red point
Silver Bullet
6B+ Boulder at Fern Creek Boulders
Fun warm up on the F5 boulder. 2nd go (whoops). Also did the thing between it and the tree, not sure the name.
Fern Creek Boulders 6c+ (6b+) Red point
2014-05-17
2014-05-17
Red point
Prince Ali
7C Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
Unusual but cool tension climbing. Can't believe I cut feet on the sharp left hand.
Short Creek Boulders 7c Red point
2014-05-17
2014-05-17
Red point
The 40 Thieves
7B+ Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
Core power, all the way. The link up to Ali Bubba is gonna have to get some love one of these rainy days.
Short Creek Boulders 7b+ Red point
2014-04-20
2014-04-20
Red point
Get Lifted
7A+ Boulder at Teay's Boulders
Morpho 6, that is one big freakin' move for me. Took 4 or 5 tries to stick. I do not see the holds on Masterlock, gonna have to go beta hunting.
Teay's Boulders 7a+ Red point
2014-04-20
2014-04-20
Red point
Morchella Elata
7B Boulder at Teay's Boulders
Really clean line with great movement. If it either wasn't as short or didn't sit in a hole it would be top notch. Might have to give it more than 700, felt like solid V7 to me.
Teay's Boulders 7b Red point
2014-04-20
2014-04-20
Red point
Get Low
6B+ Boulder at Teay's Boulders
Cool slopers, funky slab at the end. Fun moves. Lisa will float this next time around. Teay's Landing is a quality area despite it's less than stellar star count on paper.
Teay's Boulders 6b+ Red point
2014-04-19
2014-04-19
Flash
Left Egg
6A+ Boulder at Hawk's Nest Boulders
Sketchy landing, pretty unique mantel on a problem of this grade, way fun.
Hawk's Nest Boulders 6a+ Flash
2014-04-19
2014-04-19
Red point
Tribe of Two Sheiks
7B+ Boulder at Hawk's Nest Boulders
Appreciate the rec from JD on this one as I overlooked it previously. Started L hand down low on the arete on a pinch, not on the small crimp. Seemed like the most obvious logical starting hold. Scary up top!
Hawk's Nest Boulders 7b+ Red point
2014-04-19
2014-04-19
Flash
Egg Direct
6A+ Boulder at Hawk's Nest Boulders
Tall and scary. Lisa making it look casual!
Hawk's Nest Boulders 6a+ Flash
2014-04-19
2014-04-19
Flash
Was That a Boob?
7A+ Boulder at Hawk's Nest Boulders
Soft. May be V5 if you can static the 1st move and keep your feet on. Haven't done a compression line like this in a while. Good enough to do twice!
Hawk's Nest Boulders 7a+ Flash
2014-04-19
2014-04-19
Red point
Bat Cave Traverse
7B+ Boulder at Cotton Bottom Boulders
Great traverse, awesome slopers. Hard for me for the grade probably cuz of the pump. Can't believe I punted last time! Gonna have to get my shit together for Megamite.
Cotton Bottom Boulders 7b+ Red point
2014-04-08
2014-04-08
Red point
Slippery When Wet
7A+ Boulder at Substation Boulders
Might not even be V6 if you're tall enough. Had to jack my left foot up under the left start hold and thrutch for the 1st move.
Substation Boulders 7a+ Red point
2014-04-08
2014-04-08
Red point
Station Drive By
6B+ Boulder at Substation Boulders
Hard for 4?
Substation Boulders 6b+ Red point
2014-04-08
2014-04-08
Red point
Hollywood Highrise
7A+ Boulder at Substation Boulders
WOAH! Spectacular, tall, proud line. Terrifying at the top, the move to the arete is balls out and the topout is hard enough to freak me out. 2nd go. 3 pads like what. Hard for the grade I think.
Substation Boulders 7a+ Red point
2014-04-08
2014-04-08
Flash
Amp Left
6C+ Boulder at Substation Boulders
Pretty fun! Weird pocket.
Substation Boulders 6b+ (6c+) Flash
2014-04-05
2014-04-05
Flash
Bubbles
6B+ Boulder at Sunshine Boulders
Crazy huecos! Great beach setting. Damn the New rocks my world. Hard for 4.
Sunshine Boulders 6b+ Flash
2014-04-05
2014-04-05
Red point
The Grunge SDS
7B+ Boulder at Fayette Station Boulders
Added a SDS. Start L hand on small iron band slot crimp, right hand gaston on friendly crimp, 1st move up and right to sloper with iron band through it. I think it bumps it to v8/9. Cool deadpoint into the high crimp!
Fayette Station Boulders 7b+ Red point
2014-04-05
2014-04-05
Flash
Boxer's Break
7B Boulder at Sunshine Boulders
Great problem, consistent movement with a satisfying move to the jug to finish her off.
Sunshine Boulders 7b Flash
2014-04-05
2014-04-05
Red point
Soft Goods
6C+ Boulder at Fayette Station Boulders
2nd go.
Fayette Station Boulders 6c+ Red point
2014-04-05
2014-04-05
Flash
1, 2, Punch
7B Boulder at Sunshine Boulders
Fun jump but really a 1-move-wonder. Really fun move, less satisfying otherwise. Gonna have to get my shit together for TKO.
Sunshine Boulders 7b Flash
2014-04-05
2014-04-05
Red point
Way of the Gun Low
7C Boulder at Fayette Station Boulders
Woah this is one of the lowest percentage moves I've done, fortunately it's the 1st move. Stuck it after I took the tape off my pointer finger. Really cool deadpoint! Dunno about Lawless . . .
Fayette Station Boulders 7c Red point
2014-03-23
2014-03-23
Red point
Mad Hatter
7A+ Boulder at Interp Boulders
Should have used the right beta for the flash :-/
Interp Boulders 7a+ Red point
2014-03-23
2014-03-23
Red point
Tiki Torch
7B+ Boulder at Interp Boulders
The turd of the boulder. Did it cuz it was there. Went right to thin slot crimp with good thumb catch, left to rounded crimp under the lip and then up right to crescent crimp about 10 inches under the lip of the boulder.
Interp Boulders 7b+ Red point
2014-03-23
2014-03-23
Flash
White Boy Bob
6B+ Boulder at Interp Boulders
Continued up arete without using iron edges.
Interp Boulders 6b+ Flash
2014-03-23
2014-03-23
Flash
Honky
6C+ Boulder at Interp Boulders
Big last move!
Interp Boulders 6c+ Flash
2014-03-23
2014-03-23
Red point
The Ronski Feint
7B Boulder at Interp Boulders
Maybe the first truly blind move I've done? Can't lean far enough back to see the hold you're jumping to. Way cool. Holds the 7 grade in my book cuz of the tricksyness.
Interp Boulders 7b Red point
2014-03-22
2014-03-22
Flash
Mines of Moria
6B+ Boulder at Cotton Bottom Boulders
Woah good. If not for the conglomerate and dabby tree this would be out of this world.
Cotton Bottom Boulders 6b+ Flash
2014-03-22
2014-03-22
Flash
Gradient
7B Boulder at Cotton Bottom Boulders
Soft 7. Top was a sandy mess. Felt sketchy with the heat and sand and height on the topout.
Cotton Bottom Boulders 7b Flash
2014-03-22
2014-03-22
Red point
Cross Section
6B+ Boulder at Cotton Bottom Boulders
Cotton Bottom Boulders 6b+ Red point
2014-03-22
2014-03-22
Red point
Fingers Malone
7B+ Boulder at Cotton Bottom Boulders
Efffff I blew the flash. This looks cool but really does climb like a turd.
Cotton Bottom Boulders 7b+ Red point
2014-03-22
2014-03-22
Flash
Slopers Malone
7A+ Boulder at Cotton Bottom Boulders
What a cool lip traverse. Rolled out up to the seam, I guess the original way was to traverse all the way to arete. 5/6 this way.
Cotton Bottom Boulders 7a+ Flash
2014-03-16
2014-03-16
Red point
Kundilini
6A+ Boulder at Muscatatuck Park
Repeat. Great fun. May have been easier before the polish of limestone set in. Feels like 3 or 4 now.
Muscatatuck Park 6a+ Red point
2014-03-15
2014-03-15
Red point
Splash Traverse (Sit)
6C+ Boulder at Muscatatuck Park
Repeat. Woooo freestanding. Cool lip traverse. Sit = V5, starting on the lip = V4?
Muscatatuck Park 6c+ Red point
2014-03-15
2014-03-15
Red point
Wild Flower
6C+ Boulder at Muscatatuck Park
Repeat. Pretty good one! Harder for shorties. Repeated again 9/18/14 and did both left and right variations.
Muscatatuck Park 6c+ Red point
2014-03-04
2014-03-04
Red point
Hammerhead
6C+ Boulder at Horse Pens 40
2nd go, tried to topout on the wrong side and my fingers went numb. Whoops. Mega-fun.
Horse Pens 40 6c+ Red point
2014-03-04
2014-03-04
Flash
Chattanooga plow 
7B Boulder at Horse Pens 40
I flashed something at Horsepens, woah.
Horse Pens 40 7b Flash
2014-03-04
2014-03-04
Red point
Cadillac Thrills
7C Boulder at Horse Pens 40
2nd day. Damn I struggled with this one, couldn't do it the shouldery method, then had troubles finding that left foot on the 2nd day. The top felt fawkward.
Horse Pens 40 7c Red point
2014-03-04
2014-03-04
Red point
Slider
7C Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Pretty fantabulous. I have troubles sticking to that sloper ball
Horse Pens 40 7c Red point
2014-03-04
2014-03-04
Red point
No Tranquility
7C Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Hrrmm, something doesn't add up on this one, the stand is supposed to be a V6, but a couple easy and 1 hard-ish move into the stand makes it a 9?
Horse Pens 40 7c Red point
2014-03-04
2014-03-04
Red point
The flow 
7B Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Really fun, struggled with it at the end of the day. Hard 7. Eff Five-O and my hamstring.
Horse Pens 40 7b Red point
2014-03-04
2014-03-04
Flash
Great White
7B Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Stellar feature. Might be V6, let's be honest.
Horse Pens 40 7b Flash
2014-03-02
2014-03-02
Red point
Waterloo
7B+ Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Slimyyy. Just went for that jug all uncontrolled like.
Horse Pens 40 7b+ Red point
2014-02-01
2014-02-01
Red point
Slitty Titty Traverse
6B+ Boulder at Cotton Bottom Boulders
Cotton Bottom Boulders 6c+ (6b+) Red point
2014-02-01
2014-02-01
Red point
Bubba Ho-Tep
7C+ Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
Really, really fun. Thanks for all the beta from JD!
Short Creek Boulders 7c+ Red point
2013-12-27
2013-12-27
Flash
The Crown
6A+ Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Classic.
Horse Pens 40 6a+ Flash
2013-12-27
2013-12-27
Red point
Squeeze Play
7B Boulder at Horse Pens 40
One of the trickiest problems I've done in terms of hand sequence/positioning for the topout. Clutch info from Mr. Hill. Seems improbable that it all works out. Fun!
Horse Pens 40 7b Red point
2013-12-27
2013-12-27
Red point
High Life
6C+ Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Hard for me! Fun line minus the ass-draggin' start.
Horse Pens 40 6c+ Red point
2013-12-27
2013-12-27
Red point
Law Dogs
7B+ Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Hard for me in the sunshine. HP40 friction isn't all it's cracked up to be.
Horse Pens 40 7b+ Red point
2013-12-27
2013-12-27
Red point
Odd Job
7B+ Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Cool first move.
Horse Pens 40 7b+ Red point
2013-12-27
2013-12-27
Red point
Stepchild 
7B Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Really good, love the tallness and unique crossover-gaston/undercling action. 3 tries?
Horse Pens 40 7b Red point
2013-12-27
2013-12-27
Flash
Consumption
7B Boulder at Horse Pens 40
One of the prettiest features in hp40. Dunno if I used good beta or not.
Horse Pens 40 7b Flash
2013-12-27
2013-12-27
Red point
Hugs and Kisses
7B+ Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Finally figured this out, hit the first crimp R hand on the far left, crossed underneath to the right side of the hold with the L hand and popped quickly to the good sloper. A few tries this time.
Horse Pens 40 7b+ Red point
2013-12-20
2013-12-20
Red point
Ali Bubba SDS
7C Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
Barely made it through the pump to the finish. The jug in the middle is gonna break off one of these days. Sweet kneebar. Will be back for Bubba Hotep!
Short Creek Boulders 7b+ (7c) Red point
2013-12-20
2013-12-20
Red point
Light Rays
7B+ Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
Fully stretched out on the 1st move, the whole problem should be much easier if you're taller. I did like the topout.
Short Creek Boulders 7b+ Red point
2013-12-20
2013-12-20
Red point
Vámonos Low
7C Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
This only took me 3 quick tries, but I used completely different beta than what has previously been done. Started right hand in sloper/pinch, left in a very shallow 2 finger pocket and crossed up left to slot. Previous beta was to jump crazy like to the good right hand pocket, which certainly seems like V9+. I think it may be a morpho thing, I'm able to scrunch in there.
Short Creek Boulders 7b+ (7c) Red point
2013-12-20
2013-12-20
Red point
The Frenchman
7B+ Boulder at Fayette Station Boulders
One of the best traverses I've done, great progression. Man the rock at the New is fantastic.
Fayette Station Boulders 7b+ Red point
2013-12-20
2013-12-20
Red point
Water Equation
7A+ Boulder at Short Creek Boulders
Sooooooo scary, but fun. Kinda a 1-move wonder but such a cool block.
Short Creek Boulders 7a+ Red point
2013-12-20
2013-12-20
Red point
Octagon Control
7C+ Boulder at Fayette Station Boulders
Struggled with the first move! Such a clean line and the right hand crimp is one of the most perfect I've held onto. Could be a 9.
Fayette Station Boulders 7c+ Red point
2013-12-17
2013-12-17
Red point
Bedwetters
This boulder is spectacular, such a fantastic progression of moves, can't believe I waited this long to get on it. Didn't realize why nobody tops this out until I'm standing on the jug shelf and felt the looseness. And here I thought everyone were just pansies.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7c Red point
2013-12-16
2013-12-16
Red point
Red House Extension
The whole damn boulder is contrived, doh. Some fun moves, nice jump for the finish.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b+ (7b) Red point
2013-12-16
2013-12-16
Red point
Shiver Me Timbers Direct
Pretty cool, walked by it for so many years. 3 tries.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b+ Red point
2013-11-11
2013-11-11
Red point
The Black - Direct
7C Boulder at Sunshine Boulders
Epitome of a brilliant crimp rig. Still can't flash (soft) V9, so close!! Dabbed on the finish move on 2nd go and resent with conviction on the 3rd. Gotta say these are some really lovely crimps. Didn't exit early, and I think this may be a 4+ star line if it didn't have that arete so close. I suppose it could be an 8, I haven't climbed enuf at the New to know yet.
Sunshine Boulders 7c Red point
2013-11-11
2013-11-11
Flash
Master Blaster
7B Boulder at Sunshine Boulders
Woah almost didn't hold on to the big move. Even the "bad" problems at the New are still fun.
Sunshine Boulders 7b Flash
2013-11-11
2013-11-11
Flash
Sunshine Arete
6C+ Boulder at Sunshine Boulders
Beautiful, fun problem. The New is rockin' my world.
Sunshine Boulders 6c+ Flash
2013-11-11
2013-11-11
Flash
Scream
7B Boulder at Fayette Station Boulders
Committing move to the jug on a flash go without any info on the line! Way fun big moves. Not sure if it's up to the V7 standard but so fun who cares? Octagon Control next time . . .
Fayette Station Boulders 7a+ (7b) Flash
2013-11-11
2013-11-11
Red point
Way of the Gun
6B+ Boulder at Fayette Station Boulders
2nd go, chickened off the topout first time around. Oh man.
Fayette Station Boulders 6b+ Red point
2013-11-11
2013-11-11
Red point
The White
7B Boulder at Sunshine Boulders
2nd go, greased off the good right edge at the top on the flash. This is one funky block of rock, can't say I've ever climbed something quite like this before.
Sunshine Boulders 7b Red point
2013-11-10
2013-11-10
Red point
Half Moon Tilt
7B+ Boulder at Cotton Top Boulders
What a stunner. Climbing is pretty good too. A stout 8 I think, at least based on the other stuff I've climbed at the New so far!
Cotton Top Boulders 7b+ Red point
2013-11-10
2013-11-10
Red point
White Eyebrow
7B Boulder at Hawk's Nest Boulders
3 tries. A couple of big stretched out moves!! Such a cool move for my height up to the over-the-head gaston. Gonna have to go back with some brushes to clean up Brass Knuckles.
Hawk's Nest Boulders 7b Red point
2013-11-03
2013-11-03
2nd Red point
Wild Turkey
7C+ Boulder at The Citadel - RRG
Fantastic roof line, the progression through multiple boulders is superb. Felt sooooo sticky in the conditions this weekend, my skin loves the texture of fresh sandstone in the Red. 10.2? 2nd or 3rd ascent I think.
The Citadel - RRG 7c+ 2nd Red point
2013-11-03
2013-11-03
FA Red point
Crumble in the Jungle
7B+ Boulder at The Citadel - RRG
Project to the right of Lapse of Reason. Went down in about an hour, and after effectively sending 3 times as I kept grabbing holds above the crux sequence that were breaking. v8.8? The good crimp you cross back to with your right hand on the edge of the mini roof has questionable integrity; be careful up there! The rest of the holds feel solid.
The Citadel - RRG 7b+ FA Red point
2013-06-17
2013-06-17
Red point
Mr. Wimpy Sit
7B+ Boulder at Emerald Lake
Bleh
Emerald Lake 7b+ Red point
2013-06-15
2013-06-15
Red point
Tommy's Other Arete
7C Boulder at Emerald Lake
I like it! Sorta brute forced it and didn't use any heel with the right foot. Damn was I breathing hard resting on the slab. Nice spice at the top, even if that part isn't difficult.
Emerald Lake 7c Red point
2013-06-15
2013-06-15
Red point
Real Large
7C Boulder at Emerald Lake
Really good one, big moves on big holds. 3 tries, blew the mantle on the 2nd.
Emerald Lake 7c Red point
2013-06-15
2013-06-15
Flash
Arete (AKA Purple Drank)
7B+ Boulder at Emerald Lake
Soft, 7/8 I think, tho definitely harder if you're short. Jugs to some uncomfortable holds.
Emerald Lake 7b+ Flash
2013-06-12
2013-06-12
Red point
Silverback
7C+ Boulder at Mt. Evans
Dunno what's happening to me, I couldn't pull on crimps at all but felt pretty good on the slopers and heel hooks. Someone take my temperature . . . Also, the humidity and evening temps worked well for my skin while I'm pretty sure it felt greasy to everyone else; sometimes I just luck out.
Mt. Evans 7c (7c+) Red point
2013-06-11
2013-06-11
Red point
Bulgin' Out
7C Boulder at Veritas
Legit feels like some sorta sandstone rig because of the slopery-esque holds and body positions. Enjoyable. Would be great to send something a bit harder this trip . . .
Veritas 7b+ (7c) Red point
2013-06-08
2013-06-08
Flash
Turning Point
7B+ Boulder at Satellites
Liking the texture of the flatirons over granite in the heat. Fun one, consistent climbing beginning to end.
Satellites 7b+ Flash
2013-06-08
2013-06-08
Red point
Face Full of Brian
7B+ Boulder at Satellites
Few tries, 2nd from start, heel slipped on the flash! Short and sweet.
Satellites 7b+ Red point
2013-04-13
2013-04-13
FA Red point
Split Screen
7B+ Boulder at Far East -- Athens, Ohio
The seam project. Looks cool, reportedly did not climb as well. Ends up it is a big jump from the seam to a sloper on the face and some really wack but cool beta to finish her off. Felt a lot easier to me than Turtles in Time, but it is also a less friction dependent line. Also, please, PLEASE be careful and try and climb this only when it is mostly/totally dry, as the start holds have a tendency to be wet which will cause it to crumble over time.
Far East -- Athens, Ohio 7b+ FA Red point
2013-04-04
2013-04-04
2nd Red point
Orlandini Genie
7C Boulder at Orlandini Wall
Hard one, keeping it stout, 9/10 sounds about right. Looks so straight forward but put up quite a fight. Great addition by Quinney! 2x
Orlandini Wall 7c 2nd Red point
2013-03-31
2013-03-31
Red point
Kings High
7B+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
Cleaned this up and worked out the moves on a rope then sent 2nd go from the ground. SCARY. My first that was both highball and harder on the grade scale. Kehl has a good eye.
Holy Boulders 7b+ Red point
2013-03-30
2013-03-30
Red point
Platypus
7B+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
Fun one, I think I brute forced it.
Holy Boulders 7b+ Red point
2013-03-28
2013-03-28
Flash
Comfortably Numb
6A+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
Repeat.
Holy Boulders 6a+ Flash
2013-03-28
2013-03-28
Red point
Comfortably Numb Arete
7A+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
Cool slopey arete. 2x
Holy Boulders 7a+ Red point
2013-03-28
2013-03-28
Flash
Tabernacle
6C+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
Very clean crack. Props to Doug on finding (or refinding) this one. Had to moves some logs behind it, including the death spear that I whacked my knee with.
Holy Boulders 6c+ Flash
2013-03-28
2013-03-28
Red point
Worms Way
7C+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
Hard. Keepin' it sandbagged in So Ill. Probably "just" 9 by Holies standards. Really like the big last move. No topout.
Holy Boulders 7c (7c+) Red point
2013-03-28
2013-03-28
Red point
Darkside
7B Boulder at Holy Boulders
Short and sweet. Walked by this a million times before finally trying it.
Holy Boulders 7b Red point
2013-03-28
2013-03-28
Red point
Jump for Jesus
7A+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
It's otay. 4 or 5 tries. Who field goal ticked the start hold?
Holy Boulders 7a+ Red point
2013-03-23
2013-03-23
Red point
Smoke Signals
7C+ Boulder at Area 571 - RRG
Really good. Fantastic roof climb tucked aside Private Selection/Tramway, props to C Grosh on the find! Basically did twice back to back except I skated off the soaking wet jug topout. Damn. Felt really physical and hard 1st trip, but much better this time around in pristine temps. Not sure how strong I'm climbing . . . So Ill here we come! Good to see Chris get revenge on it. Everything else is wetttttt.
Area 571 - RRG 7c+ Red point
2013-03-23
2013-03-23
2nd Red point
Monopolist
8A Boulder at The Cove
I do not know if this is hard for V11 but it is certainly hard for me. Sustained section of ten or so moves followed by a serious exit crux. Fell on the last move 8+ times over three sessions? There is taller person beta that cuts out a few moves but felt super stretched to me, this might make it easier, not sure. Really fun despite it's lowball start and lack of topout. Possibly 2nd ascent??
The Cove 8a 2nd Red point
2013-02-17
2013-02-17
Red point
Chocktaw Sundial
7B+ Boulder at Rocktown
Powerful and sharp. Started on two underclings as a SDS. Sorta an eliminate cuz you don't use the arete, but doesn't feel contrived when you climb it. I wish I could send V9 at Rocktown *sniff*
Rocktown 7b+ Red point
2013-02-17
2013-02-17
Red point
Grand Theft Auto
7B Boulder at Rocktown
Eww. Climbs like it looks, ass draggy, scrunchy and weird.
Rocktown 7b Red point
2013-02-17
2013-02-17
Red point
Paparazzi (Stand)
6C+ Boulder at Rocktown
Started R on block at your face, left just above on the blocky triangle sized hold, 1st move right to flat gaston, huge lockoff up left to sloper and quick slap to jug right. Felt V7 to me, couldn't get around to the good part of the left hand sloper. Feels incomplete as the stand.
Rocktown 7b (6c+) Red point
2013-02-17
2013-02-17
Flash
Pulling Tubes
7A Boulder at Rocktown
Might be the best on the wall.
Rocktown 7a+ (7a) Flash
2013-02-17
2013-02-17
Flash
Pinch Loaf
6C+ Boulder at Rocktown
Rocktown 6c+ Flash
2013-02-16
2013-02-16
Red point
Big Bad
7A Boulder at Rocktown
So fun. Aka "Brown Eyed"?
Rocktown 7a Red point
2013-02-16
2013-02-16
Red point
Brown Hole
7B+ Boulder at Rocktown
Right in jug, left to thin slot, then used the heel toe cam out right . . . straight up beta seemed a bit reachy. Fun!
Rocktown 7b+ Red point
2013-02-16
2013-02-16
Red point
Sherman Roof Traverse 
7C Boulder at Rocktown
Wasn't sure I was gonna make it, desperate as all hell cuz I was numbing out and drying out. It's fun, but does not deserve 4 stars or whatever the book gives, as, after all, it is a traverse.
Rocktown 7c Red point
2013-02-10
2013-02-10
Red point
Dancing Outlaw
6B+ Boulder at Far East -- Athens, Ohio
Mucho fun slab. Started down and right, big move left to the crimp rail, etc.
Far East -- Athens, Ohio 6b+ Red point
2013-02-10
2013-02-10
FA Red point
Turtles in Time
7B+ Boulder at Far East -- Athens, Ohio
Resistant sloper traverse. Good stuff. Hard 8 I think? Maybe soft 9? Edit 4/7/2013: It broke so I'll have to go back and resend. 4/13/2013 Repeated the line with the broken hold, is a tiny bit harder than before. Still feels desperate to me!
Far East -- Athens, Ohio 7b+ FA Red point
2013-02-10
2013-02-10
Red point
Shredder
7A+ Boulder at Far East -- Athens, Ohio
Sandy but really cool slopers and mantle. No-hand double-knee bar start like woah.
Far East -- Athens, Ohio 7a+ Red point
2013-02-10
2013-02-10
Red point
Unnamed - Outlaw Boulder
7B Boulder at Far East -- Athens, Ohio
V7ish arete/slice deal on the back of the Outlaw boulder. Really good! I can suck hard on topouts.
Far East -- Athens, Ohio 7b Red point
2013-01-20
2013-01-20
Red point
White Trash
2nd go.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 6c+ Red point
2013-01-20
2013-01-20
Red point
Ghengis Khan
I dig.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 6c+ Red point
2013-01-20
2013-01-20
Red point
Manute Bol
What a weird one. Started sitting. Def v6 for me!
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7a+ Red point
2013-01-20
2013-01-20
Red point
Kneed It
Nifty one. Very unique. Pretty quick. Once you have that right crimp the topout really isn't bad.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b+ (7c) Red point
2013-01-20
2013-01-20
Red point
Bosley Traverse
A fun one! 3 or 4 quick tries. Matched the biggest vertical rail thing right hand on top, left hand underneath. 2x back-to-back.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b+ (7c) Red point
2013-01-19
2013-01-19
Red point
Ace of Spades
One funky climb. Couldn't get my toe hook in the right spot with my ass on the ground so had to elevate myself on my left knee, set the toe hook then reach up to the left starting hold and pull myself off the ground from that position. Was missing a last foot movement to seal the deal. 2x back-to-back for good measure. Low end 9, but very specific. Only a hoody under my ass to keep the mud off me.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7c Red point
2013-01-19
2013-01-19
Red point
Blacksmith
Lotsa fun! Shoulda/coulda flashed if I had eaten more during the day. Whoops. Figured out pulling the heel in to a cam on the start hold after the 1st move saved my shoulder big time.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7c Red point
2013-01-05
2013-01-05
Red point
White Man Can't Jump
7B Boulder at Rocktown
Hardcore Eliminate. Fun jump. I used the eliminated stuff to the right for a foot after sticking the lip to top it out, whoops.
Rocktown 7b Red point
2013-01-05
2013-01-05
Flash
Blue
7A+ Boulder at Rocktown
Soft. A little hairy up top.
Rocktown 7a+ Flash
2013-01-05
2013-01-05
Flash
Booney Project
7B+ Boulder at Rocktown
I'm guessing I did some sort of bastardization of this problem, but I sorta think this is what the problem should actually be. Started sitting, right hand in good hold on the arete, left on iron crimp edge, got a high left foot and went up left to crimp edge, and crossed to the jugs. Did not touch any of the mumbo jumbo jugs to the right.
Rocktown 7a+ (7b+) Flash
2013-01-03
2013-01-03
Flash
Little Bad
7A Boulder at Rocktown
Fun slopers, struggled up it a bit!
Rocktown 7a Flash
2013-01-03
2013-01-03
Red point
Slither
7B Boulder at Rocktown
Most dabalicious problem I've ever climbed. Dumb tree.
Rocktown 7a+ (7b) Red point
2013-01-03
2013-01-03
Red point
Orb Direct
7C Boulder at Rocktown
Right hand to bad sloper, left up to right of the two slots.
Rocktown 7c Red point
2012-12-22
2012-12-22
Red point
Paleozoic
7C Boulder at North Mountain
Soft? Cool sequence, chossy-ish boulder.
North Mountain 7b+ (7c) Red point
2012-12-22
2012-12-22
Flash
Mezazoic
7A Boulder at North Mountain
V6. Hollow crimps.
North Mountain 7a+ (7a) Flash
2012-12-22
2012-12-22
Flash
See Sharp
7A+ Boulder at North Mountain
Small crimps, but not really that sharp. Last problem of the trip!
North Mountain 7a+ Flash
2012-12-22
2012-12-22
Red point
Pumped Full of Semen
7C Boulder at North Mountain
Soft. V8/9 for my height. I liked keeping the tension on the feet through the big moves; kinda a turd problem otherwise.
North Mountain 7b+ (7c) Red point
2012-12-21
2012-12-21
Red point
Dark Age
8A Boulder at North Mountain
Enjoyed this one a lot. Should have done the 1st day but had to refine my beta for See Spot Run. Maybe hard v10? A long problem but only 1 or 2 really hard moves.
North Mountain 7c+ (8a) Red point
2012-12-21
2012-12-21
Red point
Loaded With Power
7C Boulder at North Mountain
Amazing boulder. 2nd go, blew the flash on the 2nd knee bar. Punted on the last move of Loaded Direct, probably my biggest climbing mess-up evars.
North Mountain 7c Red point
2012-12-19
2012-12-19
Red point
Stinking Jesus
7B+ Boulder at North Mountain
Really BIG reach for me. Started right hand crimp, left hand sidepull/undercling sloper at about head or chest height.
North Mountain 7b+ Red point
2012-12-17
2012-12-17
Red point
CLOSED Roughage CLOSED
7B Boulder at North Mountain
WOW.
North Mountain 7b Red point
2012-12-17
2012-12-17
Flash
No Wonder
7B Boulder at North Mountain
How much closer can I be to the Wonder Hole.
North Mountain 7b Flash
2012-12-15
2012-12-15
Red point
Power of Silence
7C+ Boulder at North Mountain
I really enjoyed the subtlety of the 2nd move on this one. Slowly figured out the body position and where to stand on the right foot and finally did the 2nd move and sent. Got a nice blood blister on the ring finger tip in the finger lock.
North Mountain 7c+ Red point
2012-12-15
2012-12-15
Red point
Short Order Cook
7A+ Boulder at North Mountain
If I had gotten my ass off the ground 1st go I woulda flashed. Ooops.
North Mountain 7a+ Red point
2012-12-13
2012-12-13
Red point
Free Willy
7C+ Boulder at North Mountain
Don't know why I had so much troubles, flashed to the last move then took a sess and a half to do it.
North Mountain 7c+ Red point
2012-12-13
2012-12-13
Red point
Rogered in the Shower
7C+ Boulder at North Mountain
Pointy holds. Not terribly exciting.
North Mountain 7c+ Red point
2012-12-13
2012-12-13
Red point
Bloody Flapper
6B+ Boulder at North Mountain
Man this felt hard.
North Mountain 6b+ Red point
2012-12-13
2012-12-13
Red point
Gloria
7B Boulder at North Mountain
Small crimps, not all that great.
North Mountain 7b Red point
2012-12-13
2012-12-13
Flash
Daily Dick Dose
7B Boulder at North Mountain
North Mountain 7a+ (7b) Flash
2012-12-13
2012-12-13
Red point
Babyface
7B Boulder at North Mountain
What a good one. Hard for V7.
North Mountain 7b Red point
2012-12-11
2012-12-11
Red point
Fern Roof
7C Boulder at North Mountain
Non-knee bar beta, stretching way back with the left hand to the jug. Topped out on same exit as Mexican Chicken. Might be 8 with some of those other holds, kinda wanted to do it the classic way.
North Mountain 7c Red point
2012-12-11
2012-12-11
Red point
Mexican Chicken
7A+ Boulder at North Mountain
Hard. Full value top out.
North Mountain 7a+ Red point
2012-12-09
2012-12-09
Red point
Lobster Claw
6C+ Boulder at North Mountain
One of the greatest, minus the massive amounts of jizz.
North Mountain 6c+ Red point
2012-12-09
2012-12-09
Red point
See Spot Run
7A+ Boulder at North Mountain
Punter extraordinaire.
North Mountain 7a+ Red point
2012-11-18
2012-11-18
Red point
Blood Gnome
7B+ Boulder at Brecksville
By Brecksvilles standards seemed like low end 8ish. Fun dyno at the end. Really friggen' reachy at the start for me.
Brecksville 7b+ Red point
2012-11-18
2012-11-18
Red point
Racist Arete
7B Boulder at Brecksville
2nd Go, woulda flashed if I hadn't wimped out on the first move.
Brecksville 7b Red point
2012-11-10
2012-11-10
FA Red point
Lapse of Reason
7C+ Boulder at The Citadel - RRG
Pink Wall Proj. Worked out the moves the previous trip when I was pretty worked, sent in 12 goes this time, falling 11 times on the crux move at the top. Grade is my gut feeling. Two of the holds were pre-emptively glued (which I feel was a reasonable decision) and it's a drop-off, so loses some points there, but great crimp line with obvious start and finish jugs. Pretty straight forward pulling but a little toe-hook action makes the entry a lot more casual. Thanks to C Grosh and D Wise for showing me the line!!
The Citadel - RRG 7c+ FA Red point
2012-10-07
2012-10-07
Red point
Iron Claw Sit
7C Boulder at Rocktown
Wowowowow. One of the coolest compression lines EVAR!!! Started left hand 2 finger pocket, right hand in best low dish on right side of arete. Seems like the most logical start. The pockets further down right are grimy as shit. Attempted the "variation" starting matched on the undercling. Holy F*$% power! Edit 11/4/2012: After having more thoughts about this, although I climbed what I feel is satisfactory for myself, I'd still like to start lower, perhaps between the Variation start and the one I've done.
Rocktown 7c Red point
2012-10-07
2012-10-07
Red point
Illuminati
7C Boulder at Rocktown
2nd from the start. Pure crimp power on the face! Close on outcrimping litz . . . maybe next time.
Rocktown 7c Red point
2012-10-07
2012-10-07
Red point
Swamp Sauce
7B+ Boulder at Rocktown
Blew the flash on the last move. 4 goes total, 2 from the start.
Rocktown 7b+ Red point
2012-10-06
2012-10-06
Red point
Tao
7B+ Boulder at Rocktown
Hard. Improbable. 7/8 in good conditions. 2 stars cuz of how bizarre/unique it is.
Rocktown 7b (7b+) Red point
2012-10-06
2012-10-06
Red point
Bermuda Triangle
7B+ Boulder at Rocktown
Powerful. Seems about V8 including the vertical arete at the end. The guide description is miserable, says 9 points for staying off the arete but fails to specify which of THREE aretes. 3rd go (2nd from start). Blew the flash!
Rocktown 7b+ Red point
2012-10-06
2012-10-06
Flash
Big Bad Right
7B+ Boulder at Rocktown
7/8 with good temps. Pumped at the top!
Rocktown 7b+ Flash
2012-10-06
2012-10-06
Red point
Comet Sit
7B+ Boulder at Rocktown
An extra point for having to hold it together from the bottom?
Rocktown 7b+ Red point
2012-10-06
2012-10-06
Red point
Roughin the Rotweiller
7B+ Boulder at Rocktown
Went over the lip right hand to decent sloper dish, through a right heel, left hand to the iron triangle at the lip, rocked up and back left to the big rail and pulled up and over. Pretty sure this is the correct line. Stuck 1st move on 3rd try and sent. Also, this boulder looks like a turd but the moves are pretty cool/unique.
Rocktown 7b+ Red point
2012-10-06
2012-10-06
Red point
Bionic Rats
7B+ Boulder at Rocktown
Great line! Felt stretched out on it.
Rocktown 7b+ Red point
2012-09-29
2012-09-29
Red point
8th of Crack
7B+ Boulder at Brecksville
Hard 8. One of the more physical boulders I've climbed. A classic for Chippewa Creek. Is always a little slimey, but I guess that just adds to the challenge. 2nd day on it, definitely way drier this time, barely pulled it out. Would be less of a battle with a little more height.
Brecksville 7b+ Red point
2012-09-29
2012-09-29
Red point
The Gem Mantle
7B+ Boulder at Brecksville
I am not sure what this line actually is graded, or what the name is. V8 seemed appropriate to me, although it is a very technical, specific move off of pretty miserable holds and a sketchy heel. Ballsy going for the lip after flipping the left hand. Gonna have to put in some work on the real Gem next after my finger is finished healing up! Also, unlikely this is V5, I assume that grade applies to the arete-specific variation. Edit 11/4/2012: I should probably repeat this from the lower, nasty start one of these days. Edit 11/18/2012: Final conclusion is that this a V5/8. There is much easier beta IF you're tall enough, although that method, bumping left hand all the way to the arete is less cool. ;-) Also, the sit start is really nasty at the moment as the bottom of the boulder is quite manky . . . I have little interest in repeating from here.
Brecksville 7b+ Red point
2012-09-23
2012-09-23
Red point
Thoughts on the Run
6B+ Boulder at The Citadel - RRG
Woah big move, morphologic! I don't think anyone shorter than me would be able to span that first move. Cool holds!
The Citadel - RRG 6c+ (6b+) Red point
2012-09-23
2012-09-23
Flash
Black Tusk
6C+ Boulder at The Citadel - RRG
Decidedly one of the best of the grade I've climbed anywhere. Rad iron pipe features for a pumpy finish!
The Citadel - RRG 6c+ Flash
2012-09-23
2012-09-23
Red point
Anal Retentive
7B Boulder at The Citadel - RRG
Soft, 2nd go. Fun little guy! BIG move to the jug.
The Citadel - RRG 7b Red point
2012-09-23
2012-09-23
2nd Red point
Race for the Cure
7C Boulder at The Citadel - RRG
Soft. Barely managed to hang on. Shortly after Rush figured out the clutch beta and f.a.'ed this rig. Funky and good one! Uber-slight dab on a spotter inconsequentially, I will definitely repeat clean next time I'm there. Edit 11/11/2012: Re-sent yesterday in 10 minutes. It's kinda a traverse and an eliminate BUT has really, really fun, unique movement so I still highly recommend it.
The Citadel - RRG 7c 2nd Red point
2012-07-22
2012-07-22
Flash
v6
7A+ Boulder at Emerald Lake
Left-most line starting on left hand sloper/sidepull, right hand undercling. On same boulder as other unnamed v5 and V6.
Emerald Lake 7a+ Flash
2012-07-22
2012-07-22
Flash
Tommy's Arete
7B Boulder at Chaos Canyon
Soft. Done-zo.
Chaos Canyon 7b Flash
2012-07-22
2012-07-22
Red point
Autobot
6C+ Boulder at Chaos Canyon
Me likey.
Chaos Canyon 6c+ Red point
2012-07-21
2012-07-21
Red point
Bush Pilot
8A Boulder at Chaos Canyon
Sooooo good. I punted off the top 3 or 4 times in 3ish days of work. Shoulda sent much faster on the last day, but once again, my skin was too dry. 2nd go after using the spray bottle. Felt hard 'til I had enough moisture.
Chaos Canyon 8a Red point
2012-07-19
2012-07-19
Red point
Potato Chip Sit
7B+ Boulder at Chaos Canyon
Ehhh
Chaos Canyon 7b+ Red point
2012-07-19
2012-07-19
Red point
Gang Bang
7B+ Boulder at Chaos Canyon
Pretty quick, not so bad if you can put your foot in your ass. Great line.
Chaos Canyon 7b+ Red point
2012-07-19
2012-07-19
Flash
Taurus
7B Boulder at Chaos Canyon
6/7? 2x
Chaos Canyon 7a+ (7b) Flash
2012-07-19
2012-07-19
Red point
Mikaela
7B Boulder at Chaos Canyon
2nd Go. I liked the 1st move. 2x 6/7ish
Chaos Canyon 7a+ (7b) Red point
2012-07-18
2012-07-18
Red point
Fireball
7C+ Boulder at Hallet
9 points for the climb, 1 point for the hike. 1st move would seem to be brutal if you're taller (making it solid 7C+ for those with more height).
Hallet 7c+ Red point
2012-07-18
2012-07-18
Red point
The Kind
6C+ Boulder at Emerald Lake
2nd Go. Fabulous
Emerald Lake 6c+ Red point
2012-07-16
2012-07-16
Red point
Sunspot Left
7B+ Boulder at Chaos Canyon
Consolation prize . . . shortly before sending the real deal.
Chaos Canyon 7b+ Red point
2012-07-16
2012-07-16
Red point
Sunspot
8A Boulder at Chaos Canyon
Hard 10. Had given up cuz I was splitting a tip, was told to get back on it by Murch, it started to drizzle, temps dropped and humidity rose, and fired it next go from the start. Gotta be one of the best in CO.
Chaos Canyon 7c+ (8a) Red point
2012-07-13
2012-07-13
Red point
Deep Puddle Dynamics
7C Boulder at Chaos Canyon
Didn't take too many tries . . . shoulda used the crimp in the face earlier. Cooler temps would make this wayyyyy easier. Unique and awesome, I don't care if it's "contrived."
Chaos Canyon 7c Red point
2012-07-13
2012-07-13
Flash
V6
7A+ Boulder at Chaos Canyon
Chaos Canyon 7a+ Flash
2012-07-10
2012-07-10
Red point
Downtrail Face
7A+ Boulder at Mt. Evans
Really great problem! Could be hard if you're short.
Mt. Evans 7a+ Red point
2012-07-10
2012-07-10
Red point
Pink Fink
7B Boulder at Mt. Evans
Really liked this one. Managed to keep my feet on the whole time.
Mt. Evans 7b Red point
2012-07-08
2012-07-08
Red point
Tongue in Cheek
7C Boulder at Flagstaff Mountain
2x
Flagstaff Mountain 7c Red point
2012-07-06
2012-07-06
Red point
Mongolian Cosmonaut Sit
7C+ Boulder at Flagstaff Mountain
Is technically a "Low Start" and not a SDS as far as I'm aware, tho it has broken which could have changed it. I actually kinda liked it. A nice, cool 75 degrees. I think the 1st move is easier if you're shorter. Stand done on 6-26-2012. "100+ degree day, wtf."
Flagstaff Mountain 7c+ Red point
2012-07-01
2012-07-01
Red point
Bierstadt
7C Boulder at Mt. Evans
2 days. Finally did it when the sun went behind some clouds and it cooled off 10 degrees. Lamesauce heat up at 11k feet! Should be a lot easier if you're tall.
Mt. Evans 7c Red point
2012-06-29
2012-06-29
Red point
Seurat
7B+ Boulder at Mt. Evans
Thanks to Pietras for the beta! Really cool, just had to learn to trust my feet.
Mt. Evans 7b+ Red point
2012-06-28
2012-06-28
Red point
The Dali Sit-Start
7C Boulder at Mt. Evans
Really, really good. Matched on low, left facing gaston.
Mt. Evans 7b+ (7c) Red point
2012-06-23
2012-06-23
Red point
Devil on a Leash
7B Boulder at Giant City State Park
As hard for me as Leashless cuz of the huge moves.
Giant City State Park 7b Red point
2012-06-23
2012-06-23
Flash
Leashless Angel
7C Boulder at Giant City State Park
Hard for me to nail a grade on this one. Cool moves.
Giant City State Park 7b+ (7c) Flash
2012-04-01
2012-04-01
Red point
Vapor lock
8A Boulder at Dayton pocket
Soooo good and SUCH an epic. Who woulda guessed, climbing it during a thunderstorm while it's 75 degrees with the chalk pulling water outa the air wasn't going to happen. Killed it 1st go like it wasn't a thang on my last climbing day around Chatty for the season.
Dayton pocket 8a Red point
2012-03-17
2012-03-17
Red point
Bass Assassin
7C Boulder at Ferne Clyffe State Park
Entire wall was SOAKED except the necessary holds. Toe/heel cam on the right hand start hold wasn't possible because of dripping rock above the hold. 10 or so quick tries. Short and sweet. Epic mantle on a heel hook with a puddle of water in it.
Ferne Clyffe State Park 7c Red point
2012-03-17
2012-03-17
Red point
Dream Weaver
7C Boulder at The Beach
2nd ascent? Sweet problem! 2 pretty quick days. Honestly think this is soft V10, even by So Ill standards.
The Beach 7c+ (7c) Red point
2012-03-17
2012-03-17
Red point
Con Artist
7B Boulder at Holy Boulders
Way hard for me. Not a huge fan of this boulder and the tiny little slot crimps. Finally got on this kinda fresh and put it down after having tried it half-assed for years. Is def cool to stick the last crimp.
Holy Boulders 7b Red point
2012-03-14
2012-03-14
Red point
Proud Mary
7C Boulder at The Beach
Soft. Cool crimp line on the beach in So Ill. Great setting, good tension moves on crimps.
The Beach 7b+ (7c) Red point
2012-03-13
2012-03-13
Red point
Brown Recluse
7C Boulder at Holy Boulders
Hard. In the top 5 problems I've done. Awesome power moves on slopers up a tall, pretty face in the back woods of So Ill. Superb.
Holy Boulders 7c Red point
2012-02-12
2012-02-12
Red point
Jerry Rigged
After realizing Pete's beta was surely too long for me, figured out my own and sent a couple tries later. Fun face, a little ass draggy bottom.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b+ Red point
2012-02-12
2012-02-12
Red point
Cleopatra-Cinderella Traverse
Busted the crap outa my hands trying to work out the moves, then realized I wasn't using water. Sprayed on the H2O and sent 3 goes later. Pretty fun, even if I'm not a traverse fan.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7c Red point
2012-02-10
2012-02-10
Red point
The Womb
7C+ Boulder at Rocktown
Climbs really well but looks like a turd. Went pretty quickly this time around. Exit cruxes be damned!
Rocktown 7c+ Red point
2012-01-15
2012-01-15
Red point
The Fouling
I think it was this weekend.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7a+ Red point
2012-01-15
2012-01-15
Red point
Fortune
Nifty. Very low starting jug was soaked, started matched on pinch above. Bite me.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7a+ Red point
2012-01-15
2012-01-15
Red point
Shotgun
2nd Go. BIG reach for some of us shorties.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7a+ Red point
2012-01-15
2012-01-15
Red point
Cleopatra
Finally got around to doing this. Woo scared myself on the topout. Traverse should go easy next time!
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b+ Red point
2012-01-15
2012-01-15
Red point
Cinderella
Yay for the non-dyno way.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b Red point
2012-01-14
2012-01-14
Red point
A Face in the Crowd
Perhaps soft. Shoulda flashed, 2nd go.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b Red point
2012-01-14
2012-01-14
Flash
The chronic
Kinda cool topout.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b Flash
2011-12-22
2011-12-22
Red point
Spyro Gyro
WAY less exciting than I thought. "Static" beta. Overhyped. Grade should be V7.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b Red point
2011-12-18
2011-12-18
Red point
The Law
Finally. Nothing else to say.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 8a Red point
2011-12-11
2011-12-11
Red point
Fight or Flight
7B Boulder at Brecksville
Conditions were 'good' meaning that it was cold and crisp. However, I struggled because my skin does not warm its ass up and stick to anything. Used only water on my fingers before the send (no chalk). 8th of Crack was one slimy mess and there is 3 feet of water underneath The Gem. Dammit!
Brecksville 7b Red point
2011-12-02
2011-12-02
Flash
Now and Zen
Good one. Random note: When you put in the ascents in 27 crags, put them in as the accepted grade and mark your own opinion separately.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b Flash
2011-12-02
2011-12-02
Red point
Dr. Atkinson
Second Go. Fantastic. One of the coolest 8's I've done. PTH with the spray down. Probably coulda flashed had I cared. I'm gonna start caring . . .
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b+ Red point
2011-12-02
2011-12-02
Red point
I Think I Can
Taking 8 for this cuz my fingers are fatter and I can't get them in or out of the holds. ;-) Used the jug in the middle cuz I didn't know otherwise.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b+ (7c) Red point
2011-12-01
2011-12-01
Flash
Life is Goodlett
These problems need to be combined into one (this is the correct spelling).
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7a+ Flash
2011-12-01
2011-12-01
Red point
Psychosomatic
I actually like it. Space should be a V9 and this a V8. My 2cents.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b+ (7c) Red point
2011-12-01
2011-12-01
Red point
Dragon Slayer
Great technical and fun climb, despite looking weird (and climbing a bit funky too). Ironic that I made it to the slot 2nd try (today) but had to be tired out 2 hours later to only manage 2 fingers in the slot, sink the fingers in and send. Soft 11?. Heel hook beta out left.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 8a (8a+) Red point
2011-11-11
2011-11-11
FA Red point
Arching Nemesis
7B Boulder at Nelsonville, Ohio
FA of the sit, starting matched on rail a few feet under the arete. What a BEAUTIFUL line. Never thought I'd see something like this in Ohio, of all places. Super psyched and hoping to find more lines of this caliber around.
Nelsonville, Ohio 7b FA Red point
2011-11-06
2011-11-06
Flash
Witch's Traverse
6B+ Boulder at Witch's Hill
Pretty arete. Classic lowball.
Witch's Hill 6b+ Flash
2011-10-23
2011-10-23
Flash
The Little Arete That Could
6B+ Boulder at Stroud's Run
Cool arete that climbs unexpectedly. Pretty sharp.
Stroud's Run 6b+ Flash
2011-10-23
2011-10-23
FA Red point
King Scar
7C+ Boulder at Stroud's Run
DESPERATE. Lurched to the last hold and managed to snag it off the heinous slopers. So psyched to put this one down. First double digit line (that I'm aware of) in Ohio, and a HARD 7C+ at that. Awesome Athen's crew to get me psyched. More lines to go. Edit: There are apparently 1 or 2 double digit lines up around Cleveland that with some serious googling I turned up info about. More lines to go check out.
Stroud's Run 7c+ FA Red point
2011-10-16
2011-10-16
Flash
To Slot or Not
6A+ Boulder at Stroud's Run
Super bitchin' problem, pretty face.
Stroud's Run 6a+ Flash
2011-10-16
2011-10-16
Red point
Nomad
6B+ Boulder at Stroud's Run
Weird little mantle problem. Sorta a party trick ordeal, but does take some attention/balance.
Stroud's Run 6b+ Red point
2011-10-16
2011-10-16
2nd Red point
Big Mamas
6C Boulder at Stroud's Run
2nd Ascent. Holy highball. 1st real highball I've done. 25+ feet with the crux with the hands at 20ish feet. Athen's has some serious potential, just the beginning of new lines going down.
Stroud's Run 6c 2nd Red point
2011-10-16
2011-10-16
2nd Red point
B52
7B Boulder at Stroud's Run
2nd Ascent. A little bit chaucey for the 1st undercling and feet, but by the 2nd hold onto high quality and sticky rock. Amazing arete; looks like Athens (and therefore Ohio) has some legit bouldering. Psyched!
Stroud's Run 7b 2nd Red point
2011-09-11
2011-09-11
Red point
Ghetto Methods
7C+ Boulder at The Cove
Finally did this thing, definitely not my style. Sweet moves, just wish it was freestanding.
The Cove 7c+ Red point
2011-06-11
2011-06-11
Red point
Zero Zero
7C+ Boulder at Chief Boulders
Harder v10 for me, probably cuz I split a tip and had to tape up. Pretty sharp even by my standards. SOOOO close to dabbing with my flag.
Chief Boulders 7c+ Red point
2011-06-09
2011-06-09
Red point
King Swing
7B Boulder at Chief Boulders
HARD. Dear god I fell after the big move on the sit and then couldn't repeat. At least I got the stand. Really low percentage move for me.
Chief Boulders 7b Red point
2011-06-09
2011-06-09
Red point
The Bulb
7B+ Boulder at Chief Boulders
Kinda sketchy topping this one out in the dark. Struggled to throw myself over the bulge of the boulder.
Chief Boulders 7b+ Red point
2011-06-09
2011-06-09
Red point
Worm World Cave
7C Boulder at Chief Boulders
Quick. Would REALLY like to get a chance to go back and try the full line. Thank you for whoever left a couple pads stashed under the boulder.
Chief Boulders 7b+ (7c) Red point
2011-06-09
2011-06-09
Red point
Mindbender (Low)
7C Boulder at Chief Boulders
Ugh, couldn't put this down on the 1st day but wired the beta. Fell from matched over the lip 3 times and then sent 1st try easily the next day on. Epic frustration.
Chief Boulders 7c Red point
2011-06-07
2011-06-07
Flash
The Airtight Garage
7B Boulder at Chief Boulders
Sorft. Not sure what is so intricate about this, according to the guide. Just jacked the right foot way up under the start rail and rocked up to the big crimp right . . . done.
Chief Boulders 7b Flash
2011-06-07
2011-06-07
Red point
Sesame Street
7C Boulder at Chief Boulders
So close on the flash, very cool sequence. A little touchy with no spotters.
Chief Boulders 7c Red point
2011-05-24
2011-05-24
Red point
Global Tetrahedron
7B+ Boulder at Castle rock, Idaho
Wow this was a different style problem then I've ever been on. Seems Hueco-ish. Super-rad. Took me a while to figure out the beta then sent 1st go thereafter. Shutdown in the Taco Cave.
Castle rock, Idaho 7b+ Red point
2011-05-21
2011-05-21
Red point
Superfly
7B+ Boulder at Little Cottonwood Canyon
Soft; Second GO. Straight forward, my style.
Little Cottonwood Canyon 7b+ Red point
2011-05-21
2011-05-21
Red point
All Thumbs
7C+ Boulder at Little Cottonwood Canyon
Took me a bit cuz it was HOT. Right in the sun. Beta from a local.
Little Cottonwood Canyon 7c+ Red point
2011-05-20
2011-05-20
Red point
Manly Arete
7A+ Boulder at Little Cottonwood Canyon
Sweet.
Little Cottonwood Canyon 7a+ Red point
2011-05-20
2011-05-20
Red point
Copperhead
7C+ Boulder at Little Cottonwood Canyon
Couple goes from the start. Straightforward.
Little Cottonwood Canyon 7c+ Red point
2011-05-17
2011-05-17
Red point
Scrawny and Brawny
7C+ Boulder at Right Fork
Short and sweet. Hard to keep the feet on. Perhaps a little soft, but just straight power.
Right Fork 7c+ Red point
2011-05-17
2011-05-17
Red point
Fingerhut
7C+ Boulder at Right Fork
The videos I've seen do not do this boulder justice. Beautiful boulder, ultraclassic movement. There's a reason so many people have done this . . .
Right Fork 7c+ Red point
2011-05-10
2011-05-10
Red point
Cage Free
8A Boulder at Boulder Canyon
Put WAY too much time into this boulder. Just wasn't leaning back from the wall enough before gunning for the top. 1st time I leaned back further I almost stuck, then took a couple tries ripping up my hands realizing I had forgotten to chalk up the top of the boulder. Bah.
Boulder Canyon 7c+ (8a) Red point
2011-05-03
2011-05-03
Red point
Standard Bulge
6C+ Boulder at Boulder Canyon
Boulder Canyon 6c+ Red point
2011-05-03
2011-05-03
Red point
The Citadel
7B+ Boulder at Boulder Canyon
A right-ish variation? Do people go out to the jug way left? I used some ridiculous beta to go straight up without the jug. Definitely V8 the way I did it, would seem like V6 if you went out left.
Boulder Canyon 7b+ Red point
2011-04-21
2011-04-21
Red point
Crimson Flower
7C Boulder at Holy Boulders
The sit start to Trillium. Never had gotten myself to finish Trillium. Refined beta from David Quinney and Eric P to put this one down. Was hard for me to appreciate the quality of this climb 'til I did it.
Holy Boulders 7c Red point
2011-04-18
2011-04-18
Red point
Robbing the Toothfairy
Had to wet my fro with my secret spray bottle and pat it down so I could stop dabbing it on the tree.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7c Red point
2011-04-18
2011-04-18
Red point
White Face
Short and sweet. Took me 4 tries to stick the 1st move and then did it.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7c+ Red point
2011-04-02
2011-04-02
Red point
Burst of Joy
7B+ Boulder at Rocktown
Yeah, I'm an idiot, but the problem is fun.
Rocktown 7b+ Red point
2011-03-13
2011-03-13
Red point
Covert Methods
8A Boulder at The Cove
Hard (for 10). Definitely did not feel difficult today, friction was PERFECT. Has very cool movement for rock that doesn't look the prettiest. I am not sure why people call this an 'eliminate' problem, as it is not. Definitely just a distinct line from that which starts over further right and kinda traversing inward. Same hand sequence as Emerson in his olddddd video.
The Cove 7c+ (8a) Red point
2011-02-19
2011-02-19
Red point
300
7C Boulder at Dayton pocket
Left exit. The right exit looks like it might be a little harder? I will have to try on another day. I was sooooo certain it exited out left, which makes perfect sense, but nooo. Brain fail.
Dayton pocket 7c Red point
2010-12-20
2010-12-20
Red point
Boomslang
7B Boulder at Horse Pens 40
One hard tension move, not v6 despite what the HP40 guide says.
Horse Pens 40 7b Red point
2010-12-20
2010-12-20
Red point
Ghetto Superstar
7C Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Soft. My favorite HP40 problem. Fell off the topout 4 years ago and sent at the end of the day after a few tries (falling off the last move again once) this go around. It is a gym climbers problem more than most of hp40, but I will admit it is probably on the softer side of V9, but downing it to V8 is a bit extreme. Again, you give it the grade from your 1st send, you can't regrade it after you have done it 100 times. Come on now . . .
Horse Pens 40 7c Red point
2010-12-17
2010-12-17
Red point
Megatron
7B+ Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Cool problem, just a little lowballish.
Horse Pens 40 7b+ Red point
2010-12-17
2010-12-17
Red point
Skywalker
7C Boulder at Horse Pens 40
The problem looks cool, the traverse is not that bad and neither is the topout with the beta from Drolet's friend. However, I did not find the crux move all that much fun. I think a lot of other hp40 classics climb MUCH better even if they don't look as cool. Just my thoughts :-)
Horse Pens 40 7c Red point
2010-10-03
2010-10-03
Red point
The Pinch
Took me 4 or 5 tries to rock all the way up to the left sloper and then sent. Decent movement but ultimately not super thrilling.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b Red point
2010-10-03
2010-10-03
Red point
Castaway
Fun, 1 mover. Used a left foot smear instead of the classic right foot. About 10 tries in 20 minutes?
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b Red point
2010-05-22
2010-05-22
Red point
Silence is the Question
7B+ Boulder at Beech Mountain
Despite being a bit of a butt dragger through the middle, it's a fantastic, beautiful boulder that climbs consistently through a lot of freakin' moves.
Beech Mountain 7b+ Red point
2010-05-17
2010-05-17
Flash
Purity (Extension)
7B Boulder at Beech Mountain
Fun cross move from right into V3ish Purity.
Beech Mountain 7b Flash
2010-05-17
2010-05-17
Flash
Gold
7B+ Boulder at Precipice Boulders
One of the best lines I got on in Acadia. Awesome movement, cool holds.
Precipice Boulders 7b+ Flash
2010-05-17
2010-05-17
Red point
Slick Willy
7C Boulder at Great Head
weet problem in a awesomely unique setting. Took 7 or 8 tries from the start over two days, with lots of work on beta in the middle. Is the line between Center line and Right line, starting on the Right Line's jugs and working straight out.
Great Head 7c Red point
2010-05-14
2010-05-14
Flash
Marine Biology
6B+ Boulder at Monument Cove
Problem that climbs OVER a standing pool of water. Don't fall in! Good movement.
Monument Cove 6b+ Flash
2010-05-14
2010-05-14
Red point
Yoga (Sit)
7B Boulder at Monument Cove
Super sit start. Did regular start first which is V5. Fun, tensiony problem just to the left of 'Marine Biology'
Monument Cove 7b Red point
2010-05-14
2010-05-14
FA Red point
Skintimate
7C Boulder at 45 Degree Wall
First ascent. Super sharp crimp line working up right from large jug on far right of the wall. Tore the crap outa my right pointer finger. 6 or so tries from the start. Hard V9? Reachy for me.
45 Degree Wall 7c FA Red point
2010-05-13
2010-05-13
Flash
Right Line
6C+ Boulder at Great Head
Farthest right line in the large cave in the main area at Great Head. Good movement, fun for getting warm.
Great Head 6c+ Flash
2010-04-17
2010-04-17
Red point
Undercling King
7A+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
Hard to not dab on the tree for topping out.
Holy Boulders 7a+ Red point
2010-04-05
2010-04-05
Red point
The Wave
Coolio. Epitomizes the diversity of climbing on real rock.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7a (7a+) Red point
2010-04-05
2010-04-05
Red point
Spank the Baby
Quickie. I think I added a move by starting matched on the left 'jug' pocket and go out right to the undercling. 20 minutes or so, super cool 3 moves.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b Red point
2010-04-05
2010-04-05
Red point
Instinct
Finally got this one after messing up the left shoulder on it stupidly a few weeks ago. Started with hands crossed making the 1st move so much easier. Soft 10? Hard 9? Whatever, awesome regardless.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7c (7c+) Red point
2010-04-02
2010-04-02
Flash
Diesel Power
Nice 'compression' problem.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 6c+ Flash
2010-04-02
2010-04-02
Red point
The Hulk
Holy shenanigans, what a pretty line and so hidden away! Very cool, very fun, friendly holds.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7a+ Red point
2010-04-02
2010-04-02
Red point
Grimace
Is the nice pinch on the right arete on? Didn't use it and wasn't sure. :-/
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b+ Red point
2010-03-09
2010-03-09
Flash
Golden Shower
6C+ Boulder at Rocktown
Very cool V5 on a beautiful boulder. I like the progression of the moves. Headin' in the right direction for bagging Golden Harvest but not quite there yet. Maybe next trip . . .
Rocktown 6c+ Flash
2010-03-09
2010-03-09
Flash
Nose Candy
7A+ Boulder at Rocktown
Rocktown 7a+ Flash
2010-03-09
2010-03-09
Flash
Sherman Photo Roof
7B Boulder at Rocktown
Fun problem, a bit body tensiony with some sharp-ish edges.
Rocktown 7b Flash
2010-03-09
2010-03-09
Flash
Helicopter Traverse
7B+ Boulder at Rocktown
Have had this on my tick list for a while but didn't get a chance to get on it 'til today. Seemed too easy for a V9 as I flashed it without a struggle and repeated it for the camera shortly thereafter. Solid V8 however, and super fun problem regardless.
Rocktown 7b+ Flash
2009-12-28
2009-12-28
Red point
Honeycomb
7C+ Boulder at Dayton pocket
Worked it for like 5 hours a couple days before (with a quick beta walk through a few weeks earlier) and then sent quickly without a fuss the next day on. I am told it is soft but I honestly have no clue. Just tons of fun, very finger friendly holds. Move after the drop in is the crux for me.
Dayton pocket 7c+ Red point
2009-12-28
2009-12-28
Red point
Western Gold
8A Boulder at Dayton pocket
Ummmmm, so FREAKIN' unexpected. My first V11 but just an outstanding line regardless of grade. (Easy to say after the send I suppose). About 4 hours in one day. I'm still trying to figure out how this happened. So expected Stankins to go down first. 5th ascent??
Dayton pocket 8a Red point
2009-12-24
2009-12-24
Red point
Celestial Mechanics
Definitely an awesome line. The big move is so much fun to stick. One of the best V7's I've done.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b Red point
2009-12-20
2009-12-20
FA Red point
Sewer Rat
7C+ Boulder at One Horse Gap
My first FA. Gotta edit this (10/23/13) out of retrospect: it climbs really well but is on the same chossy, conglomerate that the whole area has. Two holds were crumbling, the start foot (less of an issue, a few grains of sand won't be missed) and the crux right hand crimp hold. If that right hand degrades much more it may become unclimbable. Before I said, "Absolutely incredible line down in the creek. Powerful crimp sequence to pockets and a huge throw off a tiny crimp/pinch. Fan-freakin' tastic. Fell off the topout a few weeks earlier. Slightly hesitant to give the V10 grade but given my struggle with it despite it being my style, and discussion with other climbers, I stand firmly behind the evaluation. The crux crimp and starting foot are potentially a bit crumbly."
One Horse Gap 7c+ FA Red point
2009-12-19
2009-12-19
Red point
Unknown
7B+ Boulder at Cedar's Bluff
Very short, drop off compression problem in main area at Cedar's Bluff in So Ill. Just to the left of the Eric Venker line Walking Spanish. I think it is an old Brian Capps problem.
Cedar's Bluff 7b+ Red point
2009-12-19
2009-12-19
Red point
Life on Mars
7B+ Boulder at Jackson Falls
Tried this problem quickly a few weeks prior and was shut down. Ended up doing different beta: Started hands opposite of standard, went out right to a sloping rail even with my left hand, then locked off to the sharp crimp.
Jackson Falls 7b+ Red point
2009-12-18
2009-12-18
Red point
Gentlemen's Club
7C Boulder at The Spot
Top 3 in So Ill. Originally graded a V10, which with the original beta is probably accurate. Used a previously ignored hold to make what was before the crux move not hard. Drops it at least 1, maybe 2 V-grades. Still freakin' bomber, beautiful roof. 22 moves of awesome for me.
The Spot 7c Red point
2009-12-07
2009-12-07
Red point
Torpedo
7B Boulder at Dayton pocket
Kinda neat feature, tho those crimps/edges are not the friendliest. Quick send.
Dayton pocket 7b Red point
2009-12-06
2009-12-06
Red point
Reconciliation
6C+ Boulder at Dayton pocket
Took a couple tries. Wow was a burnt from the previous days. Fun, short little roof problem.
Dayton pocket 6c+ Red point
2009-12-05
2009-12-05
Red point
The Vagina
7B+ Boulder at Rocktown
Cool looking boulder, decent problem. Had an epic with it. Shoulda flashed after sticking the small crimp out right and then didn't get the send 'til the following day. Blast. Soft-ish.
Rocktown 7b+ Red point
2009-12-05
2009-12-05
Red point
River Dance
7C Boulder at Dayton pocket
My anti-style, as opposed to Hippie-Culture. Felt hard (like a V9) for me, tho I know people think it is soft. Very cool, beautiful setting, beautiful boulder. ~2 hours.
Dayton pocket 7c Red point
2009-12-04
2009-12-04
Red point
The Orb
7B+ Boulder at Rocktown
Pretty boulder. Good conditions. Had to moisten my hands with spit to soften my skin enough to feel the rock. Crazy. ~2 hour send.
Rocktown 7b+ Red point
2009-11-07
2009-11-07
Flash
Screaming Eagle
7A+ Boulder at The Roost
Pretty line. v5/6
The Roost 7a (7a+) Flash
2009-11-07
2009-11-07
Red point
Fusion
7A+ Boulder at Jackson Falls
Jackson Falls 7a+ Red point
2009-11-07
2009-11-07
Red point
Illinois's Biggest Sloper
7B Boulder at The Roost
AKA 'The Gobler' Super fast, 10 minute send. 3 or 4 goes. Definitely a crazy, sweet feature.
The Roost 7b Red point
2009-11-07
2009-11-07
Red point
Beaver Eater Deluxe
7B Boulder at The Roost
Cool and short. Quick send, 10 or 15 minutes.
The Roost 7b Red point
2009-11-07
2009-11-07
Red point
Crimpmasterflash
7B Boulder at Jackson Falls
One move. Literally. Dumb problem.
Jackson Falls 7b Red point
2009-11-07
2009-11-07
Red point
Eternal Sunshine
7B+ Boulder at The Roost
Soft. Cool pinches. 30 minute send. v7/8
The Roost 7b+ Red point
2009-11-07
2009-11-07
Red point
Zig Zag
7B+ Boulder at So Ill
4 or 5 goes. I like the asthetics of the holds. Possibly an easier v8, but still an 8.
So Ill 7b+ Red point
2009-10-10
2009-10-10
Red point
Shadow of a Man
6C+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
Slipped off the right hand sloper on the 1st go. Bah!
Holy Boulders 6c+ Red point
2009-10-10
2009-10-10
Flash
Turkey Jerkey
7B Boulder at Holy Boulders
Fun problem, my style.
Holy Boulders 7b Flash
2009-07-28
2009-07-28
Red point
Kahuna Roof
7A Boulder at Carter Lake
A handfull of goes, had to stop slipping off the foot. Fun sloper, topout is a bit sharp.
Carter Lake 6c+ (7a) Red point
2009-06-28
2009-06-28
Red point
Who Needs Hueco
7B+ Boulder at Lincoln Woods
Short, fun problem. 10 tries or so. Probably gonna be easier if you're taller.
Lincoln Woods 7b+ Red point
2009-05-10
2009-05-10
Red point
Guns 'n Roses
7C Boulder at Draper's Bluff
One of the best lines I've ever climbed, check out profile pic. Flailed to the top. Hard. Witnessed by Miss Lisa Podlecki.
Draper's Bluff 7c Red point
2009-03-14
2009-03-14
Red point
Hippy Culture
7C Boulder at Dayton pocket
Short, crimps. Possibly soft for the grade? I also fell in the river. Wow that was cold.
Dayton pocket 7c Red point
2009-03-14
2009-03-14
Red point
Biggie Shorty
2hrs. First v10. It could not be more my style.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7c+ Red point
2009-03-07
2009-03-07
Flash
Croc Bloc
6C+ Boulder at Rocktown
Tall and beautiful. A proud line.
Rocktown 6c+ Flash
2009-03-07
2009-03-07
Red point
Inspired By An Idiot
7A+ Boulder at Rocktown
Nifty roof. Pretty sure I did something harder than the v6 version. Fun regardless.
Rocktown 7a+ Red point
2009-03-07
2009-03-07
Red point
Deception
Proud line. Very pretty. Would be the hardest v7 I've done if it's really 7a+. Where does brotherhood start? Edit: I have repeated a couple times since. I was using ridiculous beta before. Still a hard V7, but I see the grade now.
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) 7b Red point
2009-01-31
2009-01-31
Red point
Leatherface
7B Boulder at Graveyard
Awesome problem on a 45. Good movement to a small jump crux. Same name as the problem in HCR!?!?
Graveyard 7b Red point
2008-12-20
2008-12-20
Red point
Jungle Book
7B+ Boulder at Holy Boulders
Matt Maisak with the key beta for zer0 swing.
Holy Boulders 7b+ Red point
2008-10-17
2008-10-17
Flash
Leather Face
7B Boulder at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Straight forward under the roof, friends with topout beta ftw.
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch 7b Flash
2008-09-28
2008-09-28
Red point
Miho
7A+ Boulder at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch 7a+ Red point
2008-09-27
2008-09-27
Red point
Africa Arete
7B Boulder at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch 7b Red point
2008-09-27
2008-09-27
Red point
Moondye
7C Boulder at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
1.5 Hours.
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch 7c Red point
2008-09-01
2008-09-01
Red point
Tablecloth
7C Boulder at Elephant Rocks
95 degrees and high humidity.
Elephant Rocks 7c Red point
2008-08-12
2008-08-12
Red point
Bulldog
7B+ Boulder at Friction Slab
Soft. Nifty. Used some wacked beta with a little pinch on the face instead of compression. Can't remember exact date. V7/8
Friction Slab 7b+ Red point
2008-06-29
2008-06-29
Red point
Body Karate
7C Boulder at So Ill
Worked out the moves Sat night and sent after a few goes on Sunday morn.
So Ill 7c Red point
2008-06-28
2008-06-28
Red point
O.B.D.
7A+ Boulder at Jackson Falls
Was quite humid. Scary topout.
Jackson Falls 7a+ Red point
2008-03-17
2008-03-17
Red point
Millipede
7A Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Grading on this bums me out: how do you downgrade after you have it wired . . .
Horse Pens 40 7a+ (7a) Red point
2008-03-17
2008-03-17
Red point
The Thief
7B+ Boulder at Horse Pens 40
No heel hook. 45 minutes.
Horse Pens 40 7b+ Red point
2008-03-16
2008-03-16
Red point
Getcha Some
7A+ Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Awesome, simple line.
Horse Pens 40 7a+ Red point
2008-03-16
2008-03-16
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Thugs and Bitches
7B+ Boulder at Horse Pens 40
Soft. V7/8. One move wonder. Where are the feet?!?!
Horse Pens 40 7b+ Red point
2008-03-01
2008-03-01
Red point
Bioterrorism
7A Boulder at Holy Boulders
Fun slopers. Same day as Tyler Durden. Low-ball-ish.
Holy Boulders 7a Red point
2008-03-01
2008-03-01
Red point
Tyler Durden
7A Boulder at Holy Boulders
Old picture of me on it the day I sent put up on facebook. Cool slopers and pinch for the grade.
Holy Boulders 7a Red point
2007-09-01
2007-09-01
Red point
Tree Fog
7B Boulder at Elephant Rocks
Can't remember the exact date. Have repeated since.
Elephant Rocks 7b Red point