Aaron Schneider
lives in Mount Lookout, West Virginia — has visited and listed 193 crags in 3 countries — is a member of New River Gorge and Surrounding Areas
Followers
12
Following
1
Ascents
Yearly top 10 averages
Summary
Grade
Gr.
|
Total
Tot
|
Flash
Fl
|
Red point
Re
|
Diagram | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
8B | 0 | 0 | 0 | |||
8A+ | 9 | 0 | 9 |
|
||
8A | 40 | 0 | 40 |
|
||
7C+ | 112 | 2 | 110 |
|
||
7C | 190 | 1 | 189 |
|
||
7B+ | 240 | 12 | 228 |
|
||
7B | 217 | 32 | 185 |
|
||
7A+ | 204 | 38 | 166 |
|
||
7A | 14 | 4 | 10 |
|
||
6C+ | 155 | 57 | 98 |
|
||
6C | 5 | 1 | 4 |
|
||
6B+ | 100 | 41 | 59 |
|
||
6B | 3 | 2 | 1 |
|
||
6A+ | 84 | 49 | 35 |
|
||
6A | 51 | 32 | 19 |
|
||
5+ | 0 | 0 | 0 | |||
5 | 32 | 24 | 8 |
|
||
4+ | 0 | 0 | 0 | |||
4 | 25 | 19 | 6 |
|
||
3+ | 3 | 3 | 0 |
|
||
3 | 1 | 1 | 0 |
|
Ascents
Route | Grade | Crag | Type | Ascent date | Ascent type |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Kangaroo Care
7C
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Working up to the king line. This felt limit today, hoping my elbow keeps on this trend and I can be back at it in full force soon! Such a peaceful day on the river, not a single boater or other person around. Got to explore more quality boulders down river. It's not endless but there certainly is not enough time in the day ...
|
900
7c
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-11-12
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Shriek of Delight Stand
7C
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Getting a bit of mojo back. Gorgeous line. Was concerned there might not be holds, but there are! Need to add a sit but will need to sort the best entry. Psyched on the tall boi crack line to the right.
|
900
7c
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2024-11-04
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Cute Aggression
6A
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Can't make everyone show up for mega mods 🤷🏼
|
400
6a
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2024-10-14
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
You Can't Park There
6B+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Grand movement. A little weird at the top but really just more sequential than I feel comfortable with at this height. Cox with the 1-2.
|
550
6b+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2024-10-14
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Babies Can't Be Trusted
6C+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Really good. This boulder is stacked. No flash since I did the topout on a rope. 1-2 with Cox.
|
650
6c+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2024-10-14
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Life, Uhh, Finds A Way
6A+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Jugs for days
|
450
6a+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2024-10-10
Red point
|
Red point |
My Robe and My Wizard Hat
6A+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
All time. Probably top couple for this grade in the region, even if the landing was dry it's still be incredible, sculpted jugs and crimps, nearly a singular line on this side of the boulder. O'Meara has endless stoke.
|
450
6a+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2024-09-23
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Whither and Decay
7A+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Brilliant rig, I'm quite sure no one climbed this in my presence (including me), good chance Micah did this long ago. I remember being too scared of the stump. O'Meara was psyched and brought me along for the ride. More world class mods on the Meadow!
|
750
7a+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2024-09-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Diagon Alley
7A+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Surprised I was able to pull this out, felt like a struggle, I am out of shape. Crazy how this landed on its edge.
|
750
7a+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2024-09-13
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Witch's Teton
6B+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Nice iron crimps.
|
550
6b+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2024-09-13
Flash
|
Flash |
Pickle Jar
6C+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Great mini rig. You don't always have to get scared to have fun.
|
650
6c+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2024-09-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Hall Pass
6B+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Brilliant. My elbow is slightly not terrible. Great day out with O'Meara and Fanning.
|
550
6b+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2024-09-13
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Cowboy Popsicle
7A+
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
Had been mentally preparing for this boulder for a long time. Water needs to be below about 50cfs I think or a puddle forms under the bottom. Kyle repeated on our next day out and did the jug rail traverse coming in from the right. Rad river boulder.
|
750
7a+
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2024-07-15
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Wiener High Five
7B
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
Some mega spiders I had to gently shoo to the sides. Water was about 20cfs and still needed a landing built. The right line is the best looking one but the landing seems unlikely to be easily remedied.
|
800
7b
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2024-07-15
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Hive Mind
7A+
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
Must have been done ages ago by Roper and crew. Glad Alicia made it out! This boulder is stacked.
|
750
7a+
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-07-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Fine China
7B
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
Probably an FA? Moved a bunch of rocks to fill in the puddle. Such cool plate iron holds.
|
800
7b
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-07-07
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Thunderous Applause
7B
Boulder
at
Boulder Beach 5000
More cursed than its taller and prouder neighbor, but a great climb nonetheless. This was my initial goal that was eclipsed by my higher aspirations. Fanning with one of the coolest FA's I've seen in person of the Split Rock arete. And an absolute wild end to the day. CFS went from 400 ish to over 3k with a surprise release of the dam. Roper finding his fishing poles and Lisa's sun shirt were icing on the cake! Great day! Scary copperheads ...
|
800
7b
|
Boulder Beach 5000 | Boulder |
2024-07-01
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
How Liberty Dies
7B
Boulder
at
Boulder Beach 5000
Incredible. Looked past this previously due to the height and uncertainty. Not too hard, more scary, although the landing is easy to pad with good foam. Stays in the shade til mid afternoon. Water level (started) low this day, CFS mid 400s, I think probably up to 800+/- should be fine for this boulder.
|
800
7b
|
Boulder Beach 5000 | Boulder |
2024-07-01
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Out of the Rabbit Hole
6C+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Funky climb, incredible feature visibly but not the best climbing. The straight up face is gonna be quite difficult. Happy birthday me!
|
650
6c+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2024-06-25
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Waka O.G.
7B+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Great lowball. Rad slimpers with a mega lock-off. Found a kayak in the woods and got it returned to its owner. Alvie came to hang and his company was very much enjoyed.
|
850
7b+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2024-06-25
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Set Sail
7A+
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
Beautiful boulder but mostly one hard move to start.
|
750
7a+
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-06-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Bon Voyage (left var.)
6C+
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
Could be an FA. Sorta a flash although I scrubbed the top on a rope I did not do any of the moves. The line headed left is intriguing and frightening.
|
650
6c+
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-06-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Bon Voyage
6C+
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
Fuck yes. How would you not remember climbing this behemoth?
|
650
6c+
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-06-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Queen Bee
7B+
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
Contrived but amazing line with such cool holds. Probably v7/8. Alvie, Fanning, Roper, Lisa -- what a fun day!
|
850
7b+
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-06-24
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Blueberry Scone
6C+
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
Not sure why I never bothered to do the most obvious line in this cluster. Maybe because it bakes in the sun. Did it anyway and it was great. Alicia came! Fun morning.
|
650
6c+
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2024-06-22
Red point
|
Red point |
Berrylicious
7A+
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
Rock is great on this one. Had always wanted to do this but the water wasn't quite low enough. Bigggg reach over the lip, almost lost it here. Sketchy climbing over the landing.
|
750
7a+
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2024-06-22
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Lazy River
6B+
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
Great mod. Big lock.
|
550
6b+
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-06-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Float Trip
7A+
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
I wanted to exit right but I couldn't figure it out. Nice and shady in here!
|
750
7a+
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-06-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Ball Play
6A+
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
Fun mini rig. Bowling ball!
|
450
6a+
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-06-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Placenta Previa
7B
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Less uncomfortable than its neighbor.
|
800
7b
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-06-12
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Happy Wife Happy Life
6C+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Yum. Rudy was so close!
|
650
6c+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-06-07
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Vasa Previa
7C
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Shoulder wrecker! Could not find another way through. Lisa is almost in the hospital! Thanks for the company Rudy.
|
900
7c
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-06-07
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Helvetica
7A+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Deeeeeep.
|
750
7a+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-31
Red point
|
Red point |
Balance Sheet
7A+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Touchy! My favorite on this side of the boulder.
|
750
7a+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-31
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Windings
6B+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Fun.
|
550
6b+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-31
Flash
|
Flash |
Supply Side Jesus
6B+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
More moves than I expected up the ramp.
|
550
6b+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-31
Flash
|
Flash |
Kerning
6A+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Finally played on this boulder!
|
450
6a+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-31
Flash
|
Flash |
Pit-fall of Man
6B+
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
Incredible. Glad Jeremy cleaned her up!
|
550
6b+
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-29
Flash
|
Flash |
Zen Den (original)
7B
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
The climbing is weird but the swirls are out of this world. Glad it wasn't condensed. Touch and go with the weather all day. Psyched we stuck it out with Kevin and Jeremy.
|
800
7b
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Long Strange Trip (Mid Start)
6B+
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
Starting on the big flat shelf. Landing was wet and slimy for the low start.
|
550
6b+
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-29
Flash
|
Flash |
Hydrogen Bond
6B+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Such cool holds on this shawty.
|
550
6b+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-16
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Broken Toys
7B
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Incredible. Such good rock for the bottom. A shame the landing is challenging but adds to the fun using the ducky in the landing. Been eyeing this across the river for a long time!
|
800
7b
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-16
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Trickle Down
6C+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
POWA. Don't fall on the rock in the landing. Great holds.
|
650
6c+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-16
Flash
|
Flash |
Italics
7B
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Incredible lip traverse on incredible quality rock. So good I repeated the next time I was out here.
|
800
7b
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Economy of Scale
7B+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
A mega. This boulder has been peripherally on my mind for quite some time. I thought Scotty was about to rap and snake and so I psyched myself up and got really damn scared at the top. Worth it. Still feels a bit incomplete as the low start goes! Top of the list for this fall.
|
850
7b+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-12
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Timbuk2
7A+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
The rock is so good.
|
750
7a+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-12
Flash
|
Flash |
Chrome
7B
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Crimpy! Felt hard. I think I'm out of shape. A shame the line to the right does not seem to work due to the rock in the landing.
|
800
7b
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-12
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Impurity
7A+
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
A bit harder than Hymenoptera, could be v7. Glad I did this while the landing exists.
|
750
7a+
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-02
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Hymenoptera
7A+
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
First go after I had done "Amphibian" a bit before. My favorite on the boulder so far, the iron crimps are great.
|
750
7a+
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-02
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Amphibian
7B+
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
One of the harder, more committing, high-up moves I've done on any line. O'Meara with the vision and work to bring this incredible wall to life.
|
850
7b+
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2024-05-02
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Wind In The Bones
7B+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Fabulous. Power endurance. Less mega than I'd hoped looking from the other side but still a grand line on great rock.
|
850
7b+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-29
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Supplying the Dream
6C+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
The pinchy holds on this that look like choss I was scared to yank on given the dangerous nature of this landing but they seem solid! Jerome trying out one of the scarier projects that exists at the New.
|
650
6c+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-27
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Fredvog
7A+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Bottom climbs as well as could be hoped, top is a bit dabby with the tree. Wish the roof around the right side had lines on it!
|
750
7a+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-27
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Adventure Quest
6C+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
The direct may be even better? Some funky crossing action to unexpected pockets. Tall and proud!
|
650
6c+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-27
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Agua Fria
7A+
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
Incredible line and incredible rock, the iron bands are dreamy.
|
750
7a+
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-27
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Tahiti
7B
Boulder
at
Keeney's Boulders
First go after sending Agua Fria. Nice variation!
|
800
7b
|
Keeney's Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-27
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Beetle Mania
7A+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Got stung rapping off of it, fortunately did not encounter any more stinging objects. Nice power line.
|
750
7a+
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Life In Color
7B
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Solo highball day after hanging with Micah and fam beforehand. This takes the cake.
|
800
7b
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Lizard Music
7B
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Delicate one! Less scary top give you roll onto the slab. Scary to even get on top of this boulder.
|
800
7b
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Center Line
7B+
Boulder
at
Great Head
Not sure why I did not put in the effort to finish this years ago, I now see the error in my ways. Amazing slopes and pinches straight out the middle of this great cave. Is this basalt? I tried Super Center some with some very different beta. Maybe I will be back one day. Best to be here in the evening when it is shady. Samesies for Canada cliffs which gets afternoon shade in the whole valley.
|
850
7b+
|
Great Head | Boulder |
2024-04-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Winter Harbor
6B+
Boulder
at
Schoodic Point Boulders
Sit start using your choice of holds around the jug start of "Bon Voyage", head right through blocky holds into a delicate mantle.
|
550
6b+
|
Schoodic Point Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Bon Voyage Var.
6C+
Boulder
at
Schoodic Point Boulders
Start sitting matched on the lip of the pedestal, mantle onto the pedestal and finish up the face direct. I might even like this variation better!
|
650
6c+
|
Schoodic Point Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Bon Voyage
6C+
Boulder
at
Schoodic Point Boulders
This rock is sooooo cool. Would love a whole basalt boulder field. Does it exist? Not sure I did the easiest beta.
|
650
6c+
|
Schoodic Point Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Quantum
7C
Boulder
at
Schoodic Point Boulders
Great roof climb lip traverse on amazing granite pinches and wraps. The rock on this is excellent, possibly the best granite I've climbed on anywhere. Had a frustrating first day on this rig, felt terrible, jittery, not enough sleep, could not get my life together. First go from the start after a calm and collected warm-up today. I also found a clutch right crimp to let the foot walk through the crux be chill, I probably would have sent quickly on day 1 with this. Max 2nd go'ed it! Contender for best single line in Acadia? Bon Voyage is pretty great ... 🤔
|
900
7c
|
Schoodic Point Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Orca
7C
Boulder
at
Schoodic Point Boulders
Took a couple more goes than I'd hoped, as is the way of things.
|
900
7c
|
Schoodic Point Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Too Greedily and Too Deep
7A+
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
Amazing boulder.
|
750
7a+
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-15
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Squidward
7A+
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
Fun little squeezer to start the day. Same day as the FAs on the Zen Den boulder not sure I logged them correctly.
|
750
7a+
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-10
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
The Only Way Out Is Through
7B+
Boulder
at
Lost Paddle Boulders
Love the progression. Possibly still would be the best way up of the boulder even if the giant log was not there.
|
850
7b+
|
Lost Paddle Boulders | Boulder |
2024-04-10
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Origami Titan
8A
Boulder
at
Snake Hill
What an incredible wall. 3 days, almost took it down with unrefined beta on day one, day two was way too cold and I was way too tired, day three was also too cold and I almost did not do it but a couple beta tweaks made it possible even when I was fatigued. I insist it is not high in the grade ... but is high in quality. Perhaps I will return for some other bubble action.
|
1000
8a
|
Snake Hill | Boulder |
2024-03-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Megalodongus
7C
Boulder
at
Hawks Nest State Park
Great scott! This boulder is rad.
|
900
7c
|
Hawks Nest State Park | Boulder |
2024-03-19
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Sumthin' For Nuthin'
7B+
Boulder
at
Bethel Boulders
Blew the flash in my hesitancy to commit to the OG sequence. 4 or 5 goes total I think. Lovely rock climb.
|
850
7b+
|
Bethel Boulders | Boulder |
2024-03-04
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Musselman's
7C+
Boulder
at
Bethel Boulders
I really like the holds on this guy, perhaps other than the sharp 3 finger crimp. Cool patina divots and pockets! I think the climbing has better progression on this line than Sumthin', but is also a heck of a lot harder and sustained. Used the hands-on-the-rock cooling method presend which truly made a difference. Warm day but had a (not quite) alpine start to get acceptable temps. Rad boulder, glad I made the long approach out here!
|
950
7c+
|
Bethel Boulders | Boulder |
2024-03-04
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Crocsmith
7C+
Boulder
at
Crocsmith Boulders
MEGA! Insane boulder, probably the longest boulder problem I've climbed, about 30 moves before I'm standing pulled up onto the face and a couple more moves to get topped out. The rock is uncomfortable through the middle section but the climbing on the two boulders is very fun. Probably a v8 at the bottom and v7 at the top connected by easier climbing. The pump factor is so huge I can't see this getting less than 10 points. Glad Steve got to polish her off before I had a chance to make it back! Landed at CVG at 210p, drove the 2+ hours to bethel, hiked the miserable bethel hike in the humidity only to find condensed rock, drove the 1.5 hours to this, found it condensed on the sides, went to bed to wake up to it only slightly damp and finishing drying. Warmed up on the middle section, did the end boulder twice falling on the last move one of those. Rested, fired her from the bottom. No way I could have made it through the 2nd boulder if I had to try again. Great strike mission!
|
950
7c+
|
Crocsmith Boulders | Boulder |
2024-03-03
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Basket Case
7B+
Boulder
at
Barnyard Boulders
Rad boulder, cool line, pretty good rock for Foxtown. Wish I had a bit bigger shindex for Deliverance but gotta make do with what I've got.
|
850
7b+
|
Barnyard Boulders | Boulder |
2024-02-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Low Gear
7B
Boulder
at
39 Bridge Boulders
Honestly felt pretty hard, but maybe I just wasn't warmed up yet?
|
800
7b
|
39 Bridge Boulders | Boulder |
2024-02-19
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Redox
7B
Boulder
at
39 Bridge Boulders
Couple quick tries, I like left hand crimp, right hand cross to the underside of the plate.
|
800
7b
|
39 Bridge Boulders | Boulder |
2024-02-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Roller Chain Right
7C
Boulder
at
39 Bridge Boulders
The easier but no less amazing right exit. I got wrekt on this boulder today.
|
900
7c
|
39 Bridge Boulders | Boulder |
2024-02-19
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Roller Chain
7C+
Boulder
at
39 Bridge Boulders
A new, nearly roadside mega that has mentally been years in the making. From a horrid landing, to the silt covered wall, and with the challenging water levels, this was never the priority it should have been. An absolute endurance masterpiece with a just-hard-enough crux at just the right height. And holy shit, Kensie's 1st-go-of-the-day send was insane with an honestly frightening level of commitment. Yes!
|
950
7c+
|
39 Bridge Boulders | Boulder |
2024-02-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Angel Eye Stand
7C+
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Holy hell, Mowrer's beta ftw! Can't believe I could span the move with the toe hook beta. Even seems like it could be linkable from the start? Getting stretched out is rewarding even if I dread it.
|
950
7c+
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2024-02-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Back Barring the Face Cut SDS
7B+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
Izzo flashed, I took an hour to do it. Brilliant rig.
|
850
7b+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2024-02-06
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
McNeil Side Piece
7B+
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
Could be 2nd. Took me a minute! Appetite is hard for me.
|
850
7b+
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2024-02-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Eggs Benedict
6C+
Boulder
at
Salmon Run Boulders
I really liked this traverse! Pumpy slopers to a hard mantle. JD with the flash!
|
650
6c+
|
Salmon Run Boulders | Boulder |
2024-02-02
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Omelet
6B+
Boulder
at
Salmon Run Boulders
Despite the dirt this is a really fun climb. Not a flash since I did the topout already on "Eggs Benedict".
|
550
6b+
|
Salmon Run Boulders | Boulder |
2024-02-02
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Coastline Paradox
8A+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
What a beautiful, beautiful boulder and immaculate rock. I may be partial to Nuttallburg stone but this is arguably the best rock at the New. White gold. Traverses are not normally my jam (although OSOG comes to mind) but the beauty and difficulty of this was too good to pass up. Hoping that access is secured! Regarding the grade, it took me 5 days, 2 of which I regressed. I did two 11s (albeit low end) on my first day of effort each this season and this is substantially harder than those and arguably more my style. However, in isolation the crux sequence feels solid v10. I think upper 11 or very entry level 12 and a specific skillset. Most psyched I've been for a single line in a long while. Thank you Kevin, Chill, Steve for coming out with me on different days.
|
1050
8a+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2024-02-01
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Wildfire
7C+
Boulder
at
Summer Roofs
Oh my, thought I was not going to do this again when I split my pinky in the first good go with no tape. This boulder needs it to be cold and my skin cold. 32 degrees in Mount Lookout and probably 5 to 10 degrees warmer down here. Gamble paid off not climbing more yesterday after finishing Between Beauty, but just barely. Feels 10/11 but I don't do slashes so 10.9 it is.
|
950
7c+
|
Summer Roofs | Boulder |
2024-01-04
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Between Beauty, Low Start
8A
Boulder
at
Beauty Mountain Boulders
This took me many days of effort for a climb that does not seem that hard for others. I was forgetting the crucial toe hook for the 1st move off the middle start. Some major funkery for the beginning because I just cannot float around on the middle start holds like I've see so many other people do. Watched Eric do this 1st try after flashing the middle start, very impressive.
2018-8-6 Between Beauty, Middle Start: Huge jump from stand (2 tries for it) and another huge to the full line, will have to try in cooler conditions. Needed to keep the toe hook for the 1st move to keep the tension for the 2nd. Another awesome wall with tons of links and variations courtesy of Marley!
|
1000
8a
|
Beauty Mountain Boulders | Boulder |
2024-01-03
Red point
|
Red point |
Bubba Bath
8A
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Snuck one more in before the new year! Surprised nobody did this years ago, but it is specific and difficult. I climb well in a tiny box. Really not so much power endurance even if I barely made it through the end section, desperation on every move after the crux. The low start is a mega line and I imagine hard 12. Glad Chill nabbed this one! I've been struggling to create momentum this fall and early winter but maybe this was the ticket. What's next?
|
1000
8a
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-31
Red point
|
Red point |
Hope For the Best, Left var.
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Fun first move. Sandmann FA before me. Squeezing one hard move starting right hand on the arete. Video deep in the archives but Roper walked through the shot ;-)
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-20
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Judas Goat
6A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Incredible slab! Roper, Becca and Steve.
|
450
6a+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Hope For The Best
6C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
I think Steve did this first? Weird climb if I remember.
|
650
6c+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Prepare For The Worst
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Cool moves but choss :-/
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-20
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Pocket Full of Posies
6C+
Boulder
at
Pinnacle Boulders
Got numb, dry ad scared at the top. Beautiful wall. Ashes proj is gonna be scary scary crux up high.
|
650
6c+
|
Pinnacle Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-14
Flash
|
Flash |
Abysmal Agony
8A+
Boulder
at
Commando Boulders - Coopers Rock
From the last good holds before the horizontal seam I went left (easier) than right. True last go best go scenario as I ripped a large hole in my left index finger on the send go. Probably would have dispatched a few moves earlier had a figured the high left foot for the crux move. Felt 10/11 although incredibly specific ... and incredibly awesome. I think more folks (especially those with small fingers and short reaches) would do better on this than they'd expect. Hope it gets more love! I will be back, the arete beckons.
|
1050
8a
(8a+)
|
Commando Boulders - Coopers Rock | Boulder |
2023-12-11
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Glass Shards
7B+
Boulder
at
Coopers Rock - Underlook Trail Boulders
Great movement, had to mummify my tips to get her done at the end of a warm day. Hope the crux right hand doesn't break free, seemed solid. Really appreciate the tour from Dylan, he's a swell dude :-)
|
850
7b+
|
Coopers Rock - Underlook Trail Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Tribute to John Gill
6B+
Boulder
at
Coopers Rock - Underlook Trail Boulders
Fun. Sharp in the warmth.
|
550
6b+
|
Coopers Rock - Underlook Trail Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-09
Flash
|
Flash |
Appalachian Hustle
7B
Boulder
at
Coopers Rock - Underlook Trail Boulders
Took me a lot of effort, I did not feel comfortable committing to the big move. Ended up locking off to the tiny high intermediate crimp, then bumping right to the lip keeping left hand and right foot on. Started left hand in the slot for the start.
|
800
7b
|
Coopers Rock - Underlook Trail Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Coke Oven
6A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Roper came to climb!
|
450
6a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-05
Flash
|
Flash |
Hymen
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Gotta really work those fingers in there.
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Scrip
6A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Only managed the mantle cuz Roper made it look so easy and I had to do it too.
|
450
6a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-05
Flash
|
Flash |
Spray and Pray
6B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Start by scrunching into a tiny ball. Then unscrunch. Then use the cool iron band pinch.
|
550
6b+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Reload
5
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
It's okay.
|
300
5
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-05
Flash
|
Flash |
Neurodivergent
6C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Possibly 2nd. I enjoyed!
|
650
6c+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-05
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Senile
6A
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Lol this felt hard AF
|
400
6a
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-05
Flash
|
Flash |
Dementia
4
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Cool cool
|
200
4
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-05
Flash
|
Flash |
Bobmentia
6C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Freaking great squeezer.
|
650
6c+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-12-05
Flash
|
Flash |
High Not Dry
6C+
Boulder
at
Sonnyside Boulders
Realll nice. Spookier topout than the Blends! Zack made the topout lovely and clean tho. Big Wave is harrrrddd.
|
650
6c+
|
Sonnyside Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-20
Flash
|
Flash |
My Iron Lunge
7A+
Boulder
at
Sonnyside Boulders
First go but had already climbed the top on "High Not Dry".
|
750
7a+
|
Sonnyside Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-20
Red point
|
Red point |
The Blends
7C
Boulder
at
Sonnyside Boulders
Amazeballs. First go from the start after sussing the top. Spooky with the rock in the landing. Prettiest big boulder in the New?
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Sonnyside Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Commoner
7B
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
I was stoked on this one sweet mantle and hard first move.
|
800
7b
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Plebeian
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Felt hard. I was tired. Not the best.
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Red point
|
Red point |
The Masses
6A
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
|
400
6a
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Extra! Extra!
5
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
|
300
5
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Read All About It
4
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
|
200
4
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Expedited
4
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
|
200
4
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Air Mail
6C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Tricky, grovelly.
|
650
6c+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Free Shipping
6A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
|
450
6a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Cap Brim
6A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
|
450
6a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Nope Rope
5
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Surprised this is great for being so short.
|
300
5
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Flash
|
Flash |
No Step On Snek
6A
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Slogging away.
|
400
6a
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Afghanistan
6A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Fun!
|
450
6a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Kabul Arete
4
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
|
200
4
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Cobble Face Right
6A
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Grand!
|
400
6a
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Cobble Face Left
6A
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
So grand.
|
400
6a
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Cobble Slab 2
4
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
|
200
4
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Cobble Slab 1
5
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
|
300
5
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Persimian
7B
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
2 or 3 goes? Amazing amazing slopers.
|
800
7b
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Persimulator
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Had done the top already for the right line first go pretty fun.
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Slower Burn
7C+
Boulder
at
Cotton Top Boulders
A true mega. Thank goodness someone finally did this boulder to add to the NRG canon.
|
950
7c+
|
Cotton Top Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-16
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Fire Extinguisher
7B
Boulder
at
CSX Left Boulders
A curse and a contrivance. Bleh.
|
800
7b
|
CSX Left Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Mandible
6B+
Boulder
at
CSX Left Boulders
Unclear what the original description wanted you to do. Death lichen!
|
550
6b+
|
CSX Left Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Jupiter
7B
Boulder
at
CSX Left Boulders
2nd maybe? Not the bestest rock but very lovely climb.
|
800
7b
|
CSX Left Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-14
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Twitch
6C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders
Gotta crimp kinda hard
|
650
6c+
|
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Spectator Mode
6B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders
A few different ways to skin this cat. I did a big move!
|
550
6b+
|
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-13
Flash
|
Flash |
Third Party Kill
6A
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders
Great scott!
|
400
6a
|
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-13
Flash
|
Flash |
Gods Amongst Men
5
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders
Scary scary scary
|
300
5
|
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-13
Flash
|
Flash |
Cornucopia
7B+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
A couple tries after "Fruit of the Loom". Challenging slopers!
|
850
7b+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2023-11-12
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Fruit of the Loom
7B+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Really liked this pair, great rock, ended up being trickier and harder than I expected. Fun fun crew with Lisa, Alicia, Angela and Chill!
|
850
7b+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2023-11-12
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Cherry
6A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Conflicted Boulders
Beautiful beautiful boulder. Scary up top!
|
450
6a+
|
Nuttallburg - Conflicted Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Sweet Potato
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Conflicted Boulders
Enjoyed the process on this with CHill, tricky topout! Probably easier if you're shorter.
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Conflicted Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-09
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Leprechaun
7B
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Conflicted Boulders
Took a pile driver fall the go before the send. Also I guess I dabbed on a tiny little plant, did not see that til reviewing the video later. Oh well
|
800
7b
|
Nuttallburg - Conflicted Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Turtle Turtle
7B
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Lovely mini rig. Felt hard, tricky body position. Repeated the week after. Angelo with the 2nd, Chill the following week with the 3rd.
|
800
7b
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2023-11-05
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Aberration
6A
Boulder
at
Fayette Shine Boulders
Lisa did it too! Not sure if this is the correct date.
|
400
6a
|
Fayette Shine Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-03
Red point
|
Red point |
Digital Noise
6B+
Boulder
at
Fayette Shine Boulders
Cursed
|
550
6b+
|
Fayette Shine Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-03
Red point
|
Red point |
Depth Of Field
7A+
Boulder
at
Fayette Shine Boulders
Meh. Least favorite on the boulder.
|
750
7a+
|
Fayette Shine Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-03
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
I Want You Back
6A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Maybe the best climbing of the 3 although I liked the middle one personally.
|
450
6a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Go All The Way
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Tricky! Scary!
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Fooled Around And Fell In Love
5
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Had already done the middle line which shares moves.
|
300
5
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Hooked On A Feeling
6A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Dirty but great.
|
450
6a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-01
Flash
|
Flash |
Moonage Daydream
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Probably 1st? Love the rock, gives it an extra star.
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-01
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Underling
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Hardddddd
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-11-01
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Simple Folk
6C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Pretty fun!
|
650
6c+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Room Temperature IQ
6A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Greatness.
|
450
6a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-23
Flash
|
Flash |
Awesome Mix Vol. 1
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Lovely. Committing at the top. First go from the ground after sorting the moves up high on a rope.
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-23
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Awesome Mix Vol. 2
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
So stinkin' good. Wish it didn't stay wet often. Great flow. Probable FA. No flash cuz I had done the right line first.
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-23
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Cherry Bomb
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Sharp! Probable FA.
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-23
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Spirit In The Sky
7B
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
I really liked the holds on this one. Probable FA.
|
800
7b
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-23
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
O-o-h Child
6A
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Scared myself at the top. Not sure I did this on this day or the following guide work sess.
|
400
6a
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Decision Fatigue
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Conflicted Boulders
Feels incomplete but the low start is weird. Fun day with Eric!
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Conflicted Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-22
Red point
|
Red point |
Nares
4
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders
Great rock.
|
200
4
|
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-22
Red point
|
Red point |
The Nose
7B
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders
Really good! Felt hard this day, giving it an upgrade til I hear otherwise. Scary move at the lip.
|
800
7b
|
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-22
Red point
|
Red point |
Negative Flow
7A+
Boulder
at
Fayette Shine Boulders
Also felt hard but I was haggard from 2 long days of boulders and development.
|
750
7b
(7a+)
|
Fayette Shine Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-21
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Picturesque
7B+
Boulder
at
Fayette Shine Boulders
Gorgeous boulder. One more that we had missed forever. Weird sequence, slippery rock. Can't let these kiddies get these high quality fa's ;-)
|
850
7b+
|
Fayette Shine Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-18
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Cobble Arete
7C
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Had looked at this years ago and tried briefly, was too tired and out of my vision at the time. Sorted the bottom crux quickly this year on an end of the day investigation, made it happen pretty quickly today! 2nd go from the start. Incredible climb, I wonder if the high heel will give folks trouble.
|
900
7c
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-17
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Greyhound Bus Stopper
7C
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
An outrageous boulder, so hard to believe we missed this before. Was hoping it would go with the neat slot crimp out left but ended up being easier using the razor blade. Love this rock.
|
900
7c
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-17
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Greybeard
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Deeeeeep lock for that last move. Sit unfortunately is weird.
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-12
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Dry Bite
6B+
Boulder
at
Fayette Shine Boulders
Could be harder too. Dirty.
|
550
6b+
|
Fayette Shine Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Copperhead
6B+
Boulder
at
Fayette Shine Boulders
Took me several goes, I think it's harder than v4 even if it was baking in the sun (morning) and the top was heinously dirty. Lip felt easier after a good scrub. Seems easier if you're taller.
|
550
6c+
(6b+)
|
Fayette Shine Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Snapshot
4
Boulder
at
Fayette Shine Boulders
Pretty cool slab. Cleaned as I went and used this to access cleaning of the arete.
|
200
4
|
Fayette Shine Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-10
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Turn of the Tide
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
First go but maybe doesn't count as a flash since I'd used the lip holds before. First move is awkward with a high right heel, the rest is amazeballs.
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Eonian
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Kinda hard and scrunch.
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Fine Wine
6C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Amazing. Shorty but the holds are so cool. This whole boulder turned out great.
|
650
6c+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Mad Libs Sit
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Took me a few tries to do the large first move without whacking my knee. What great rock.
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-08
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Back of the Bus
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
This boulder is freaking HUGE! What an insane setup for this massive block. Beautiful rock on this face and this is the obvious line up the center. Certainly could have been done years ago but claiming FA until I hear otherwise.
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-06
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Echoplex
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Beautiful boulder, beautiful setting, near immaculate rock. Cannot remember how closely I looked at this before but good chance the landing was under water. Heady with limited pads and no spot! Probably height dependent, expect this will feel really hard with a short reach. I think this is the boulder that Paul Nelson pointed out echos as you float by in a raft. I bet Paul would know what an Echoplex is. My favorite run of the lower New, miss you dude.
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-06
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Reverb
7B
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Scary and weird but god damn this rock is amazing.
|
800
7b
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-06
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Harvestmen Extension
6C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Could be an FA? Great lip traverse with a sub par landing. Loving this zone.
|
650
6c+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-06
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
As Above, So Below
7B
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders
Maybe FA? Hard to believe this was not done or found before but it is weird to get to. Eric broke the start after I had sent and had to do a second time. Rock is not up to Nuttallburg standards :-P
|
800
7b
|
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-04
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Emerald Slab
3+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders
In the Salewas weeeeee
|
150
3
(3+)
|
Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders | Boulder |
2023-10-04
Flash
|
Flash |
Dog Days Of Summer
5
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
I'm lovin' it.
|
300
5
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2023-08-30
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Eric Slab
6C+
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
I don't think this will be terribly hard when it's less hot although prime temps and low water will be a hard combo to achieve.
|
650
6c+
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2023-08-27
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Heat Lightning
7A+
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
Brilliant! Proud with high committing moves. I'm glad Cox and Fanning had psych to burn today!
|
750
7a+
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2023-08-27
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Got It Good
6C+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Awesome to get Zack Smith down here and psyched to scrub some good-uns. Sorted the beta on the hard line around the left but disastrous efforts going left hand first to the crimp gave me a pulley injury, left middle A3 :-(
|
650
6c+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2023-07-23
Flash
|
Flash |
Treasure Planet
6C+
Boulder
at
Treasure Planet
Reaaacchhhhh
|
650
6c+
|
Treasure Planet | Boulder |
2023-06-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Diamonds Low
7C
Boulder
at
Treasure Planet
2nd? I dunno it was 85 degrees.
|
900
7c
|
Treasure Planet | Boulder |
2023-06-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Sweet As Pie
7B+
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
Rain predicted all week, but got this incredible window. Water still low 40 CFS today. I think I sandbagged Berry Picking. This is a super cool problem but the line is forced because of the dab rock. Unfortunate dab potential but I still really enjoyed the climbing. This may be my favorite single boulder in the world because of how improbable it is. What a great day.
|
850
7b+
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2023-06-20
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Fernando
7C+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Been a long while since I punted this hard. Thank goodness I was able to pull it off again, and it let me find a better foot beta for the final hard move. Pure desperation at the top. The holds on this boulder continue to just straight wow me. 4 grand lines and this is the hardest. Difficult for me to tell how much easier this will be when it is cold, but I am continuing to try and decrease my sandbaggery so will go with low end double.
|
950
7c+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2023-06-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Jeff Goldblum
6A+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
530 wake up to try the rig on the edge of the river. It is hard. This is great, a little sharp. Can't really say I flashed it since I was standing all over the top while I was cleaning. Happy birthday Stella!
|
450
6a+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2023-06-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Fiddlehead
7A+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
2nd after Brian.
|
750
7a+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2023-06-03
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Waffle Stomp (Left)
6B+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Nice face!
|
550
6b+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2023-06-01
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Waffle Stomp (Right)
7A+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
I like this line better than the left variation but it is forced given the left is easier.
|
750
7a+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2023-06-01
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Stroll of Success
7C
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Incredible this boulder has 2 almost entirely separate lines up the two adjacent features. This one could have been awful but ended up climbing like a dream, techy with increasing tension until you unravel for the crux, followed by a couple more hard-enough moves to keep it interesting. Thought this would be harder as I was struggling the evening before but a night of rest and fresh psych, this went down first go from the start today. The new zone is fire!
|
900
7c
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2023-06-01
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Walk of Shame
7A+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Cool line although top is cruxy. The boulder is grand.
|
750
7a+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2023-05-31
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
The Beacons Are Lit
7B+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
This boulder was good enough for me do 5 days of trail work to make it here. First major line of the new zone. The season don't stop.
|
850
7b+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2023-05-31
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Goodman Face
7A+
Boulder
at
South Park
A lovely rock climb, opening the fridge doors.
|
750
7a+
|
South Park | Boulder |
2023-05-25
Flash
|
Flash |
Changanite
7B+
Boulder
at
South Park
Wooo flash! 2nd go for Derek. Felt on par and similar style to Shiver Me Timbers granted I climbed that like 10 years ago. Love how different the rock is on this and MRST, and both are beautiful, beautiful boulders. Will need to come back for Guacamole and the other pretty lines in this cluster.
|
850
7b+
|
South Park | Boulder |
2023-05-25
Flash
|
Flash |
Meadow River Soundtrack
7C
Boulder
at
South Park
This one scared me! Top was harder for me than the bottom, imagine this would feel a lot more chill in the 50s but the long reach over the lip is going to get harder the shorter you are. As always, another great Zack line.
|
900
7c
|
South Park | Boulder |
2023-05-25
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Mad Hatter
8A+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Amazing I got this done although I'm not sure at what expense, another round of finger injuries coming to light as they seem to do each spring. Maybe worth it? Quite a warm day today high in the mid 70s but waited for prime day-time temps at about 730p to take her down. Feels maybe a hare (lol) easier than March Hare, a bit less friction dependent although I think overall the styles are similar. Hard to believe I would be able to do a 12 with one real day of work, even if I'd gotten the 1st two moves (nearly) dialed for March Hare, they are not the crux. It is once again my style although maybe a bit less so than March Hare. I could see both of these being really specific, high end 11s for small crimp masters, but will defer to Marley's assessment for now. Glad Kenny B got to come out today! And Odin! I think I sorted my beta for Cheshire Cat although never actually did the 2nd or 3rd moves but felt close and was pretty tired. Maybe something to try more in the fall or if we get a freak 50 degree day soon.
|
1050
8a+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2023-05-06
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
So Deep
7B
Boulder
at
So Deep
Cool climbing with sub-par rock. 1-2 with Derek.
|
800
7b
|
So Deep | Boulder |
2023-04-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Crank The Watts
7C
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
Amazing. Possibly my favorite yet from Zack as it fits my style, is impeccable rock, serene setting and has spectacular aesthetics (other than the poo smeared across the bottom). So glad he had the vision and psych for this special boulder. Felt 9 but it fits me so well, will leave at 10 for now.
|
900
7c
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2023-04-26
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
The March Hare
8A+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Fits me like a glove. Mega scrunch crimps and slimps, first 4 moves off the same foot. 2nd day this year maybe 4 days total I think because it's so specific and my jam that it may slide into low end 12 but will need to wait for a repeat, which seems like it will be rare due to the specific nature of the climb. Small person small finger friendly!!!! The rock on this one is simply spectacular. Send train with Derek and Scotty on Tom Thumb and me on this. Need to put in some effort on Mad Hatter while the weather sticks around. Excite! Now to see if I can fend of this tweaked finger ...
|
1050
8a+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2023-04-25
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
In The Red
6A+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders
I liked the eliminate version better.
|
450
6a+
|
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders | Boulder |
2023-04-21
Flash
|
Flash |
In The Red (elim. var.)
6B+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders
|
550
6b+
|
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders | Boulder |
2023-04-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Deposit
6B+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders
Find the hidden 2 finger pocket up top. Hardest/trickiest on the boulder.
|
550
6b+
|
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders | Boulder |
2023-04-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Withdrawal
6B+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders
The topout felt impossible until I went up top to find the hidden edge. I like tricky tops.
|
550
6b+
|
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders | Boulder |
2023-04-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Teller
6A+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders
Probably my favorite on the boulder.
|
450
6a+
|
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders | Boulder |
2023-04-21
Red point
|
Red point |
High Yield Savings
6A
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders
I liked this one.
|
400
6a
|
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders | Boulder |
2023-04-21
Flash
|
Flash |
Overdraft
5
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders
|
300
5
|
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders | Boulder |
2023-04-21
Flash
|
Flash |
Close To Home
7B
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders
This is crazy but this could be an FA?
|
800
7b
|
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders | Boulder |
2023-04-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Little G
7C
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
Did it but not especially happy about it. One weird move into an otherwise pretty cool problem. Still did the right exit. Ended up finding easier beta from the 2 pinches that takes you into "Shut The Front Door", if we're trying to not have eliminates. Obviously could have done it without the sloper too but would be even more contrived/forced. Climbed the lite version on 4-1-2023 "Not sure what happened but the beta I used today felt impossible when I tried this originally. Toe up on the start of "Shut the Front Door". Hand jam! Right exit today. Did not feel especially hard once I figured out the beta, could be easier. "
|
900
7c
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2023-04-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Dangus
7C+
Boulder
at
The Last Rainforest
The prettiest 8'x8' section of wall in the entire New? The right hand pinch is just phenomenal. Ended up being nearly a 1 move wonder for me, I do think this is going to be morphologic and may even feel v9ish for tall folk. It seems like once you can't reach the pinch comfortably it gets hard and the shorter you are the harder. Low start definitely goes but probably v12 with one singular hard move and then having to do the crux of the original again. So glad Zack made this happen because even though I'd looked at it before I never thought I'd drag my ass all the way up here and thought the landing was effed. We need more folks developing!
|
950
7c+
|
The Last Rainforest | Boulder |
2023-04-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Brothers Chemical
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Could be the best of the grade at the New. I'll have to think on that one.
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2023-04-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Chemical High
7C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Made the big deadpoint boulder into a crimp boulder. Great climb nonetheless, all amazing holds. Zack makes the goods happen again and again!
|
950
7c+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2023-04-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Ravenous Low
8A
Boulder
at
Barbecue Babies Cave Bouldering
Took me a lot of sessions for this one especially if you include my initial Ravenous sessions. 2nd go from the start today, feel like I'm climbing well. I concede that despite the two crimps being the obvious start from afar, the undercling slot makes more sense. Dialed the kneebar sequence. Could not do Chipotle Honey today despite all out effort, the finger lock hurts! Original Ravenous sent 2017-01-02
|
1000
8a
|
Barbecue Babies Cave Bouldering | Boulder |
2023-04-07
Red point
|
Red point |
River Whiff
7C
Boulder
at
Summer Roofs
Maybe 45 minutes? Effed the skin on both index fingers on Wildfire. I thought it might be too warm for Wildfire and my gamble did not pay off. 2nd ascent of this one I think. Felt pretty hard, pretty much brute forced the crux. Sounds like Josh was able to skip the campus move I had to do to reach the jug and reached it from low.
|
900
7c
|
Summer Roofs | Boulder |
2023-04-03
Red point
|
Red point |
Heaven To Me
7B+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
INSANE. Tallest boulder I've climbed that wasn't slab at the top and had a real mantle. Mantle at about 30 feet? I would have walked by this forever if Zack hadn't gotten psyched. Zack with a moment of flow state on the send. What a way to cap off the lake season. Excited to get back to the lake for more ... always.
|
850
7b+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-04-02
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
The Ocean
7C+
Boulder
at
Commando Boulders - Coopers Rock
3rd? Narrow weather window after my shift ending at midnight on Thursday and started raining at 1030 Friday morning, got to the parking at 830. Pretty quick but it is my style and friction was great, cloudy with temps in mid 40s when I started. Huge thanks to Dylan for coming out with me and putting in the word to make these gorgeous rigs happen! Psyched to try Abysmal again, the sess was cut short by the wet. Hard to say if this deserves the dd but felt more 8 or 9ish to me, I don't have any great comparators. Possibility of a bit lower start to eliminate the pad stackage?
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Commando Boulders - Coopers Rock | Boulder |
2023-03-31
Red point
|
Red point |
Aravis
8A+
Boulder
at
Hominy
WHAT?! Really didn't think this was going to go today. My third day on it only one other day this year, did the crux in isolation last year but didn't feel like I would have the endurance to link. 25+ moves of greatness. Scotty with the support! Out-of-towners don't know what they are missing. I suspect this is high 11 more than 12 but I also feel like I'm climbing well. Would surprise me to be able to finish this line after only 2 half days and one full day of effort, although I had worked the stand of Tom Thumb a couple of times. Will have to throw myself at more hard rigs soon. Need to figure out how to stay healthy this year.
|
1050
8a+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2023-03-28
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Lick It
6A
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
Blew the flash with a foot slip.
|
400
6a
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Ms. New Buoy
7A+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
Felt hard but maybe I missed something.
|
750
7a+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-26
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Khia
7A+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
1-2 with Grady! Sorta tricky, had to trust the high left foot.
|
750
7a+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-26
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Rural King
8A
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
w000000000t!!! 4 days of linear progression. Day 1 didn't do the crux. Day 2 did the crux once. Day 3, did the crux on tries 3 and 4 and blew off the lip twice. Day 4, slow warm up and fired 2nd try from the start. Grady fam may be our neighbors!
|
1000
8a
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-26
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Pile Driver
7C+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
Rock is rough but the line is grand. Ate shit harder then ever when the flake broke the first time I got to it, hence the name (not a sex reference). Somewhat unexpected send and almost lost it after the crux. Taking em down!
|
950
7c+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-22
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Midnight Goose
7C+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders
Did Silly Goose 1st try (didn't flash since I had hung on the rail to warm up before), then did this 1st go from the start. Felt easier to me than Midnight Gospel although I did feel a lot more on my game today. Time will tell, guessing entry v10
|
950
7c+
|
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-20
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Choncici Low
7C
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders
Hard first move hard last move, gotta find the flow in between. Nice one DJ!
|
900
7c
|
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-20
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Gale Watch
7B
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
I think a little poop fell out at the top. Wild slab climbing, 2 fingers on the tiniest of edge. Dried out at the top and almost blew it. Need more of this.
|
800
7b
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-18
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Near Gale
6C+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
Somewhat unfortunate, need to stack the pads, hard first move mars what is otherwise some fabulous juggy slab climbing.
|
650
6c+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-18
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Barefoot in a Burn Zone
7B
Boulder
at
Bubble City
Funk! Kneebar for the start. Way cool.
|
800
7b
|
Bubble City | Boulder |
2023-03-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Bubble City
7C
Boulder
at
Bubble City
Slopey slopey. I would have never found this boulder in a million years.
|
900
7c
|
Bubble City | Boulder |
2023-03-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Midnight Gospel
7C+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders
Another roadside rig that was overlooked until DJ put in the efforts to clean up this wall and D'Amato took her down. Felt hard hard with a powerful exit crux. 3 days and some very specific training. Maybe I can build some momentum.
|
950
7c+
|
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-15
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Blue Screen of Death
7B+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
HARD first move on immaculate rock. Not a huge fan of one movers but the holds are brilliant and the face is beautiful. Battery cut out on Sean right on the send!
|
850
7b+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-07
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Rudy Special
6A+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
FA? Great line.
|
450
6a+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-07
Flash
|
Flash |
Longer Arete
6A
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
More newbies on the lake!
|
400
6a
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-07
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Slab of Bacon
3
Boulder
at
Salmon Run Boulders
I had a lot of fun climbing this.
|
100
3
|
Salmon Run Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-06
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Peaches and Cream
4
Boulder
at
Salmon Run Boulders
Weeeeee
|
200
4
|
Salmon Run Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-06
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Cinnamon and Spice
5
Boulder
at
Salmon Run Boulders
Start is weird.
|
300
5
|
Salmon Run Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Apples and Cinnamon
6A
Boulder
at
Salmon Run Boulders
My back is gonna pay for moving the rock for days. Dumb of me.
|
400
6a
|
Salmon Run Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-06
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Steel Cut
6C+
Boulder
at
Salmon Run Boulders
Power. Get them feet up.
|
650
6c+
|
Salmon Run Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Maple and Brown Sugar
7B
Boulder
at
Salmon Run Boulders
Way fun 1.5 mover.
|
800
7b
|
Salmon Run Boulders | Boulder |
2023-03-06
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Live, Laugh, Love
7B
Boulder
at
Eric's Roof
Grade seems suspect but certainly my style.
|
800
7b
|
Eric's Roof | Boulder |
2023-02-26
Flash
|
Flash |
Homeslice
7B+
Boulder
at
Eric's Roof
5 hours of sleep post night shift 3rd day on lez do this.
|
850
7b+
|
Eric's Roof | Boulder |
2023-02-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Big Hank
6C+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
So much in this cluster.
|
650
6c+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-02-24
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Hank Sr.
6C+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
It got dirty dirty. Slappy slappy.
|
650
6c+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-02-24
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Ass Quake
7A+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
Really good.
|
750
7a+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-02-24
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Stick of Butter
6C+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
This wall went better than I'd expected!
|
650
7a+
(6c+)
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-02-24
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
All Gas No Brakes
7B+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
Toppen got me psyched. Intense lip traverse trickery at the beginning followed by pump then a struggle to get out of the pool. Really climbs quite well.
|
850
7b+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-02-24
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Hook, Line and Sinker
7B+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
Beautiful, tall, heady. Only detractor is it's in a corridor but a nice hideaway from the blasting sun. Alvie came out on the boat!
|
850
7b+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-02-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Orangatanga
7B
Boulder
at
Virgin Gorda
Lots of climbing yesterday and today ... repeat whelp and jah-high before this then this evening on omerta! The low on this is hardddd would love to try it fresh, maybe one day. The topout on this guy suckksssss.
|
800
7b
|
Virgin Gorda | Boulder |
2023-02-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Jah-High
7B
Boulder
at
Virgin Gorda
2nd go. Sharp. Crimpiest line on the island and I didn't crimp. Did this day and the next morning as well.
|
800
7b
|
Virgin Gorda | Boulder |
2023-02-04
Red point
|
Red point |
W.H.E.L.P.
7A+
Boulder
at
Virgin Gorda
Tricky, weird, fun. Did this day and the next morning.
|
750
7a+
|
Virgin Gorda | Boulder |
2023-02-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Traverse di Haas
7B+
Boulder
at
Virgin Gorda
3rd go, 2nd from the start. Just soooo slimy but not really that hard. I love the holds tho. Moth attack!
|
850
7b
(7b+)
|
Virgin Gorda | Boulder |
2023-02-01
Red point
|
Red point |
The Brush Project
7B+
Boulder
at
Virgin Gorda
The best, chossiest climb on the planet? Struggle fest with the sun out, probably would feel much better o a cloudy day. V4/5 into V8 ... hard v8? Low v9?
|
850
7b+
|
Virgin Gorda | Boulder |
2023-02-01
Red point
|
Red point |
The Tortoise
6A
Boulder
at
Virgin Gorda
The setting makes this incredible. I did start in a seated position on the climb and not under it, oh well.
|
400
6a
|
Virgin Gorda | Boulder |
2023-01-30
Flash
|
Flash |
Sweet Honey
7B
Boulder
at
Virgin Gorda
The holds on this wall are fantastic. Group fav of the trip.
|
800
7b
|
Virgin Gorda | Boulder |
2023-01-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Sweet Ice
7B+
Boulder
at
Virgin Gorda
Loved this one, maybe even more than Sweet Honey. The cylindrical sloper is so cool. Nice power endurance. 1-2 with Griffin.
|
850
7b+
|
Virgin Gorda | Boulder |
2023-01-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Groovy Baby
6A+
Boulder
at
Virgin Gorda
Cool dishes. I started on the hueco edge for Nerts.
|
450
6a+
|
Virgin Gorda | Boulder |
2023-01-29
Flash
|
Flash |
Termite Highway
7B+
Boulder
at
Virgin Gorda
Neat holds on a lip traverse. I assume this is low end slash soft for VG given this felt 8ish real world. Guess we'll see.
|
850
7b+
|
Virgin Gorda | Boulder |
2023-01-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Roper Squeezer
6A
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
Lovely.
|
400
6a
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-21
Flash
|
Flash |
Rhino Rocket
6A+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
Moved a lot of rock to fill in the landing but more could go. So many great mods in this zone.
|
450
6a+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-21
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Josh sit main line
6C+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
The iron is sooooper cool on this one! Your leg gets stuck underneath, I wonder if this will be harder if you're shorter? Did the higher start first.
|
650
6c+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-21
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Side Hug
6C+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
I like.
|
650
6c+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-21
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Not My Fault
7A+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
Moved some rocks out from behind to make this not feel dabby. Missed the undercling crimp when I was looking at this with Kory but it really makes the problem. Don't get your foot stuck!
|
750
7a+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-21
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Dave's Problem
7B+
Boulder
at
McAfee's Knob
Hard, sharp, an eliminate, what's not to love? This little wall is fun and filled the void in a couple hour time slot taking Odin to his oncology appointment but I'm glad I never went out of my way to come here before. Didn't have the juice for Brooklyn Bridge but imagine this is because of a rather heavy training day yesterday. Here's to hoping
|
850
7b+
|
McAfee's Knob | Boulder |
2023-01-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Flake Problem
5
Boulder
at
McAfee's Knob
|
300
5
|
McAfee's Knob | Boulder |
2023-01-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Counter Pressure (Proper)
6A+
Boulder
at
McAfee's Knob
|
450
6a+
|
McAfee's Knob | Boulder |
2023-01-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Money Shot (V7)
7B
Boulder
at
McAfee's Knob
It's decent.
|
800
7b
|
McAfee's Knob | Boulder |
2023-01-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Porcelain Throne
6B+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
I may have come up with this boulder theme while on the shitter. The landing is a shame.
|
550
6b+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-09
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Abdication
6C+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
First on the boulder to go down! Lots of landing work. Lots of chill. More technical than its neighbor to the left. Thanks for coming out Roper, Lisa and Stella!
|
650
6c+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Lonely On Top
6C+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
Couldn't stop thinking about this rig after seeing this boulder. What a fucking badass slap. Discrete holds, heady, almost almost completely independent line, really doesn't get better than this.
|
650
6c+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Divine Right Extension
7A+
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
The climbing is probably better, but easier, without the extra moves.
|
750
7a+
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-09
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Tectonic Shift
7C
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
We slid the MEGA slab! Added a half star to this rig. Took a really long time to figure out the left hand move to the high crimp on the face, then tucked her away 2 goes from the start later. Felt like I finished her off too quickly for the double, but Roper says I shouldn't sandbag things so we will see ...
|
900
7c
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-09
Red point
|
Red point |
All Your Fault
6A
Boulder
at
Long Point Boulders
Beautiful if not a bit sharp. Micah with the FA years ago? Long Point is stacked.
|
400
6a
|
Long Point Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-01
Flash
|
Flash |
South Facing
6A
Boulder
at
Sascrotch Boulders
Sharp conglomerate tooth in the right hand sidepull.
|
400
6a
|
Sascrotch Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-01
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Freezing Point Depression
6A
Boulder
at
Sascrotch Boulders
I guess I'll call it a flash even if I did Summersville Traverse first.
|
400
6a
|
Sascrotch Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-01
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Condensate
6A
Boulder
at
Sascrotch Boulders
First go. My fav on the boulder.
|
400
6a
|
Sascrotch Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Summersville Traverse
6A+
Boulder
at
Sascrotch Boulders
A bit uncomfortable but still fun. Kory came to visit and climbed!!
|
450
6a+
|
Sascrotch Boulders | Boulder |
2023-01-01
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Not Spottin'
7A+
Boulder
at
Country Club Boulders
Tall boi. Steve got psyched. Probably 3rd ascent. All cleaned up now.
|
750
7a+
|
Country Club Boulders | Boulder |
2022-12-27
Flash
|
Flash |
Unnamed, Better Than Turkey
6C+
Boulder
at
Country Club Boulders
Just lovely holds on this large large boulder.
|
650
6c+
|
Country Club Boulders | Boulder |
2022-12-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Scotty's Rig
7A+
Boulder
at
Country Club Boulders
Brilliant holds. I used that slimper, was too scared to commit for the big move to the high rail. Scotty with the vision!
|
750
7a+
|
Country Club Boulders | Boulder |
2022-12-18
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Rainy Day Science
6C+
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Lisa took her down!
|
650
6c+
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2022-12-16
Flash
|
Flash |
Burlesque
7B
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Took more effort than I had planned. Felt hard. Got angry at it. Neat roof! Watch that dab.
|
800
7b
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2022-12-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Bitches Get Stitches
7C
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Finally! One of my longest running projects even if it was far spaced sessions, still took me 4 or 5 days? Feel like for my height and reach this warrants an upgrade, I suppose it could be morpho enough to be a 9 for others although possibly just a sandbag from the start. 5th ascent after Rose, Mercer, Cox, Sellew? Used Cox's beta going to the sloper divot then bumping to the crimp. Camera glitched and repeated 2 goes later. Hope my shoulder isn't injured like on my prior sessions. Slowly ticking away on these harder to come by megas!
|
900
7c+
(7c)
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2022-12-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Heaven's Gate SDS
7B+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Top few prettiest walls in the whole New. Maybe I shouldn't let the kiddies get fa's.
|
850
7b+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2022-12-12
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
All Is Forgiven
7C
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Tricky one. Way harder than anticipated looking at this wall.
|
900
7c
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2022-12-12
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Sodadendron
6A+
Boulder
at
The Last Rainforest
Really neat right hand v-notch pinch.
|
450
6a+
|
The Last Rainforest | Boulder |
2022-12-02
Flash
|
Flash |
Last Word
7C
Boulder
at
The Last Rainforest
Also a really great climb, worthy addition to Monte. Did the end of this, then took me 5 or 6 tries to restick the 3rd (crux) move, including a dry fire that split my left index, and took it to the top. Possible dab on a rhodo leaf pulling my right foot up for the very last move although I don't see it in the footy. Very much enjoyed my day on this boulder and looking forward to more greatness.
|
900
7c
|
The Last Rainforest | Boulder |
2022-12-02
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Monte Cassino
7C+
Boulder
at
The Last Rainforest
Great vision on this block. When he first showed me I was unimpressed, but with some landing work and chalk this wall turned into an impressive addition to the already excellent nearby offerings. Really different rock. Dry day, dry fired off the left crimp several times. The finish move is scary! Especially solo. Have had a lot of fun climbing here. Seems like lower end, solid 10.
|
950
7c+
|
The Last Rainforest | Boulder |
2022-12-02
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
The Corner Store
6C+
Boulder
at
Circus Boulders
Two hard right arm lock offs. If the rock was better quality this would get another star but the start hold is a giant loose flake. Looking forward to coming back and climbing the right side and others in this cluster. Kupferman with the FA! I need to check out all the other lines Roper fa'ed in this cluster today.
|
650
6c+
|
Circus Boulders | Boulder |
2022-12-01
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
J Bird
7B+
Boulder
at
The Last Rainforest
Didn't think I was gonna be able to reach but sorted some magical ballerina foot beta that keeps her from being reachy. Mono! Slab! Did the right exit.
|
850
7b+
|
The Last Rainforest | Boulder |
2022-11-26
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Keep Sweet Low
7B+
Boulder
at
The Last Rainforest
Really quite good. Probably gets 7 in cool temps.
|
850
7b
(7b+)
|
The Last Rainforest | Boulder |
2022-11-26
Flash
|
Flash |
Cell Block J
7C
Boulder
at
The Last Rainforest
Spent a good while trying to suss this out the prior trip with a high of about 75, went down in 3 quick goes today. Temps matter people. Another grand one.
|
900
7c
|
The Last Rainforest | Boulder |
2022-11-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Butter Binge
7C+
Boulder
at
The Last Rainforest
I overlooked this one before because I didn't realize there were near perfect, right hand holds underneath the overhang. The rock is downright spectacular quality, obvious jug start, fun somewhat delicate finish. Definite crux move but once you're tired from the crux move it is still on you til you hit the start of "Peanut Butter Kisses". Thank you for throwing me a bone! This one may get the downgrade but trying to sandbag less.
|
950
7c+
|
The Last Rainforest | Boulder |
2022-11-26
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Alive and Flying
7B
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
Sharp but fantastic.
|
800
7b
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2022-11-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Fluorescent Grey
7C
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
Dyno is hard for me! Really freaking good tho. Bringing home the goods.
|
900
7c
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2022-11-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Midnight Fever Low Left
7C+
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
Damn another power endurance beauty. Lovely crimps. Right shoulder wrecker. Low in the grade I think.
|
950
7c+
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2022-11-23
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Snawfus
8A
Boulder
at
Canyon Doors Boulders
Simply outrageous. Possibly my favorite FA, at least up there with Deep Fried, OSOG, LOC SDS, Algorithmic. About 20, flowing moves on crimps across a giant roof, riverside. I first spotted this block Gauley season 2020 with a lower Gauley trip lead by Jeff Shields. I saw it again rafting 2021 and decided I needed to find it. To my complete surprise it had holds allllll the way out the entire roof. Simply delightful. 4th day on, although I may have been able to send day 3 with the slight beta changes I used on day 4. Jeremy Kupferman, JD Love, Josh Mowrer, Elliot Gaunt all with the support on different sessions. A contender I think for top 100 double digit boulders in the country, although the alternate start and theoretically alternate ending could be detractors. Entry 11 I think, will probably fill chill if you have good power endurance on edges.
|
1000
8a
|
Canyon Doors Boulders | Boulder |
2022-11-22
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Bass Mouse
6A+
Boulder
at
Atlantis Boulders
Fucking awesome, scary landing.
|
450
6a+
|
Atlantis Boulders | Boulder |
2022-11-14
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Stowaway
7B
Boulder
at
Atlantis Boulders
If not for the tiered landing this would be all time. Beautiful boulder, excited to come back for the dihedral to the right. Scary finish move to the lip!
|
800
7b
|
Atlantis Boulders | Boulder |
2022-11-14
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
False Start
7B+
Boulder
at
Interp and Campground Boulders
Did it from the OG start with left hand down low, right hand on the better crimp. 1st move is the crux then it's all about holding it together from there. Did the harder, right exit. Felt like v9 with this start and finish.
|
850
7c
(7b+)
|
Interp and Campground Boulders | Boulder |
2022-11-10
Red point
|
Red point |
SixtynEinstein
7C
Boulder
at
Interp and Campground Boulders
Maybe 2nd if Jones was the first? Really freakin' fun, never climbed a line quite like it although I know many exist.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Interp and Campground Boulders | Boulder |
2022-11-10
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Mr. Weenie Sends
6B+
Boulder
at
Bridge Boulders
It was very warm today. Great hanging out with Dan, Michelle and Cece! Took me 2 tries? Felt hard hard for the grade and reachy.
|
550
7a+
(6b+)
|
Bridge Boulders | Boulder |
2022-11-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Memorabilia
7C+
Boulder
at
Interp and Campground Boulders
This thing is really quite fun, short walk, good landing. Amazed I didn't mess with this earlier. Warm day, mid 60s but felt good with a breeze and dry air. Will be back for False Start, False Memory, etc.
|
950
7c+
|
Interp and Campground Boulders | Boulder |
2022-11-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Positronic Cop
6B+
Boulder
at
Interp and Campground Boulders
slimps
|
550
6b+
|
Interp and Campground Boulders | Boulder |
2022-11-04
Flash
|
Flash |
The Nose
6A
Boulder
at
Interp and Campground Boulders
Really good.
|
400
6a
|
Interp and Campground Boulders | Boulder |
2022-11-04
Flash
|
Flash |
Spongebob
6A+
Boulder
at
Interp and Campground Boulders
Bailed out left for the topout.
|
450
6a+
|
Interp and Campground Boulders | Boulder |
2022-11-04
Flash
|
Flash |
Insurrection
6A+
Boulder
at
Wonka Cave Boulders
Probably the best on the wall.
|
450
6a+
|
Wonka Cave Boulders | Boulder |
2022-10-22
Flash
|
Flash |
Faux News
6C+
Boulder
at
Wonka Cave Boulders
It's okay but also scary scary.
|
650
6c+
|
Wonka Cave Boulders | Boulder |
2022-10-22
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Radicalized
7A+
Boulder
at
Wonka Cave Boulders
I liked this one, harder slimpers, did it with a desperate match, it's easier with using all the holds ;-)
|
750
7a+
|
Wonka Cave Boulders | Boulder |
2022-10-22
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Sedition
6C+
Boulder
at
Wonka Cave Boulders
Instead of a scary mantle find the large jug up and right.
|
650
6c+
|
Wonka Cave Boulders | Boulder |
2022-10-22
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Gaslight. Obstruct. Project.
7A+
Boulder
at
Wonka Cave Boulders
One mover, like the slopes/slimps.
|
750
7a+
|
Wonka Cave Boulders | Boulder |
2022-10-22
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Obstruction of Justice
7B
Boulder
at
Wonka Cave Boulders
Slimpers! My game. Hardest on the wall unless someone finds a worthy link-up.
|
800
7b
|
Wonka Cave Boulders | Boulder |
2022-10-22
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Virtue Signal
6B+
Boulder
at
Wonka Cave Boulders
Cool jugs, pretty sharp rock.
|
550
6b+
|
Wonka Cave Boulders | Boulder |
2022-10-22
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Indictment
6B+
Boulder
at
Wonka Cave Boulders
Worst on the wall. Find the little right foot chip and throw a left heel.
|
550
6b+
|
Wonka Cave Boulders | Boulder |
2022-10-22
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Laminar Effect
7C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders
Did not think I had this in me! Spent a good deal of time working the Laminar moves the other day and couldn't get the left heel to stay for the life of me. Ended up the heel was delaminating. Better shoes this time and the Laminar moves felt more comfortable like last year. Got Micah out to climb! Beautiful day. Marley really did open an incredible boulder with this one.
|
950
7c+
|
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders | Boulder |
2022-10-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Binary Stars
6A+
Boulder
at
Tatooine
One singular go for the whole day, but productive nonetheless, 3 fa's from Stella and realized that Tatooine is a legit sector to focus on soon!
|
450
6a+
|
Tatooine | Boulder |
2022-10-20
Flash
|
Flash |
Plop
6C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders
This is a terrible boulder. Pulled off the ground then put a high left toe on the good crimp on "Skipping Stone".
|
650
6c+
|
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders | Boulder |
2022-10-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Skipping Stone
7A+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders
Cox with quite the weekend, mega day at Fern Middle on Saturday, putting up great FAs on Sunday. It's roadside people.
|
750
7a+
|
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders | Boulder |
2022-10-09
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
All In the Wrist
7B
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders
Not a lot of techy face climbs at the New. Hard crimping. I think this will be a good bit easier in cooler temps. All about that high high right foot and left foot on the left starting hold.
|
800
7b
|
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders | Boulder |
2022-10-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Puddle Jumper
7B
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders
Really a cool line, beautiful block. The low would be SICKKKK. Great day out with Cox and Jones.
|
800
7b
|
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders | Boulder |
2022-10-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Double Z Arete
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders
What a lovely singular-line boulder. Only detractor is the particularly low start, but really after the 1st move this isn't a big deal. 2 days, quite warm on the 1st, 2nd day I came out and unfolded the pads in the morning only to pull on once and realize the direct sun was a no-go. Several hours and a few FAs later I managed to unexpectedly scrape this out. Everything is V8, it's true.
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders | Boulder |
2022-10-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Fat Mouse
7B
Boulder
at
Pinnacle Boulders
Stiffy before the rain. All the rain. And an intense lower gauley trip! Project should go go go
|
800
7b+
(7b)
|
Pinnacle Boulders | Boulder |
2022-09-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Wave Effect
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders
Really liked this link up. Not sure if Marley did this first?
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders | Boulder |
2022-09-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Sieve
6B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders
One last one to finish off this block.
|
550
6b+
|
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders | Boulder |
2022-09-27
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Ripple Exit
7B
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders
Dab factor is the big detractor, otherwise lovely movement. Climbed 3x cuz my camera did not want to cooperate.
|
800
7b
|
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders | Boulder |
2022-09-27
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Wet Exit
6C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders
Fun little crimps. Normally wouldn't record as a separate climb to the low start/extension but since this is an FA ... Moved all the rocks today and my back is not happy.
|
650
6c+
|
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders | Boulder |
2022-09-27
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Right as Rain
7C
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
First of the season goes down! Been thinking about this for a long time. 3rd day on it. Took a bit to sort all the beta but went quickly with cooler temps on the 3rd day. Really quite proud. Left arete needs love. Eric Cox with the support!
|
900
7c
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2022-09-22
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Tifo Lifo
6C+
Boulder
at
The Last Rainforest
Tricky, tricky but quite good.
|
650
6c+
|
The Last Rainforest | Boulder |
2022-09-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Terroir
7A+
Boulder
at
The Last Rainforest
Stand UP!
|
750
7a+
|
The Last Rainforest | Boulder |
2022-09-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Light Play
6C+
Boulder
at
Boulder Beach 5000
Scary. Climbed it ground up, climbing up, scrubbing, backing off, etc. Can't remember how hard this was. Or the specific date.
|
650
6c+
|
Boulder Beach 5000 | Boulder |
2022-07-20
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Bait and Switch
7B+
Boulder
at
Boulder Beach 5000
Fun, tricky line. I'm guessing on the grade I did not log this until a couple years later. This was a fun overnight trip at boulder beach with the log fire!
|
850
7b+
|
Boulder Beach 5000 | Boulder |
2022-07-20
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Hanging Loose
7A+
Boulder
at
Cranberries
Amazing slopers and pinches! Thanks for the tour Micah! This roof is real good and I can't figure out how it exists. Cranberries bouldering has commenced.
|
750
7a+
|
Cranberries | Boulder |
2022-06-20
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Wolfe Den
7C
Boulder
at
Cranberries
Dang. Amazing line of holds out the roof. More featured than Nuttall and has feet all the way to press into the holds almost as though someone set it in a gym. Excellent flow to a committing crux move at the end. Worth the trek and need to come back for the hard hard left in the roof.
|
900
7c
|
Cranberries | Boulder |
2022-06-20
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Kom SDS
7A+
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Sandmann freakin day tripped from Cincy, what an animal.
|
750
7a+
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2022-05-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Consider It Done
7B+
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
None of the pockets feel especially comfortable but I think this is as much because it was in the 60s and friction was hard to come by. The rose move really is quite cool. Glad Elliot put the effort in to make this wall a thing after having walked by it for years. Will be back for the direct. Chill soon after. The amount of effort this took seems like 9 points is fair. Or I'm just fat and out of shape.
|
850
7c
(7b+)
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2022-05-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Brood X
7B+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Sweet mini rig one mover. I like coordination moves when I can do them. Felt a good deal easier than Tom Thumb, Butler's Break, etc and agree this isn't a 1 move v10. Also was a warm day. Gets morning shade.
|
850
7b+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2022-05-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Butler's Break SDS
7C+
Boulder
at
Hominy
2nd ascent of the low although admittedly easier for the first move now that I moved some more rock out of the way. Makes it far less dabby and far more pleasant. Really an awesome climb even if cruxy. One singular pocket in a 6 foot otherwise empty space of wall makes the whole thing work. Very much unexpected, a pretty warm day (high in low 70s). Only ever did the crux move twice, once in iso then in sequence. Fell asleep on the pads before the last two attempts; seemed to be the ticket. Elliot did the stand before this.
|
950
7c+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2022-05-02
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Star Guitar
7A+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Almost didn't get on this but mustered some end-of-the-day psych to take her down. Maybe the headiest topout, you have to go through a position of balance getting a foot over the lip. Solo ftw! Glad Smith made it happen for us. Brilliant day of unexpected sends.
|
750
7a+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2022-05-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Slabatha
7B+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Tricky tricky. Unclear how big of a contrivance it is/how early you can exit right, but I enjoyed it nonetheless. Parents with the support!
|
850
7b+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2022-04-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Locked In Syndrome
7C+
Boulder
at
Cicada Boulders
Matt Jones chalked up the holds after I dismissed it as being uninteresting, but ended up being a techy, resistant masterpiece. 3 days, falling on the last hard move on day 2 after finally landing on the sequence. Thought I may pull it down quickly on day 3 but had numerous foot slips on the crux cross move. Excited to take down one more new rig before the weather turns. First time my parents have ever seen my climb outdoors and what a special one. The name is as a reminder of tragic mistakes made, and to be better in the future. More on these two colossal boulders to come.
|
950
7c+
|
Cicada Boulders | Boulder |
2022-04-28
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Mad Apple
7B
Boulder
at
Circus Boulders
On the Cirque du Soleil boulder just in front of the stump starts with the snaggletooth hold. Pockets were a surprise. Nice to meet India!
|
800
7b
|
Circus Boulders | Boulder |
2022-04-21
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Cicadian Rhythm
6A
Boulder
at
Cicada Boulders
Fuck yes.
|
400
6a
|
Cicada Boulders | Boulder |
2022-04-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Sleep Paralysis
6C+
Boulder
at
Cicada Boulders
Amazing. Static beta unlocked. Don't remember if I flashed or not.
|
650
6c+
|
Cicada Boulders | Boulder |
2022-04-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Shape of A
7A+
Boulder
at
Lost World Boulders
Really pretty, techy mini rig. Imagine this has been done before.
|
750
7a+
|
Lost World Boulders | Boulder |
2022-04-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Slanty Rail
6A+
Boulder
at
Lost World Boulders
Stella made it look easier than it felt for me. 1st boulder I've gotten around to climbing at the Lost World cluster.
|
450
6a+
|
Lost World Boulders | Boulder |
2022-04-07
Flash
|
Flash |
Leftmost line penthouse boulder
6C+
Boulder
at
Penthouse Boulders
Need to add in the extension which will be a pump fest.
|
650
6c+
|
Penthouse Boulders | Boulder |
2022-04-07
Flash
|
Flash |
Low Water Pressure Extension
7B+
Boulder
at
Penthouse Boulders
Mega-pump. Can't imagine this is actually all the hard if you've got endurance, which I've never had. Lots of fun links on this crazy boulder.
|
850
7b+
|
Penthouse Boulders | Boulder |
2022-04-07
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Roper line extension
7B
Boulder
at
Penthouse Boulders
Paddling on and on. Windy day, all the nasty driftwood got pushed into this little cove and my poor boat got rocked.
|
800
7b
|
Penthouse Boulders | Boulder |
2022-04-07
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Either Oar
7B
Boulder
at
Boulder Beach 5000
|
800
7b
|
Boulder Beach 5000 | Boulder |
2022-04-02
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Either Oar Arete
7B
Boulder
at
Boulder Beach 5000
Pretty line but major crux for the 1st couple of moves. Elliot beat me to it by a couple goes.
|
800
7b
|
Boulder Beach 5000 | Boulder |
2022-04-02
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Candy From a Baby
7C
Boulder
at
Wonka Cave Boulders
Logical link-up. Felt easier than Rock Candy for sure, probably similar to Disco Factory with the newly broken pocket. Cave is about finished until my wrist feels better to try Wonka Bar stand
|
900
7c
|
Wonka Cave Boulders | Boulder |
2022-04-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch
7C
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Probably low end. First move is almost a star detractor but makes it full value difficulty wise.
|
900
7c
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2022-03-27
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Holy Left Hand Grenade of Antioch
7C
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I think it's a smidge easier than the direct as you don't have two back to back low percentage moves.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2022-03-27
Red point
|
Red point |
First Crusade
7B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Great line, wish I had the power to do the sit, will be real psyched to see who takes her down.
|
850
7b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2022-03-27
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Last Man Standing
7C+
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
1 move wonder for the difficulty with a major scare factor as the high crux, while physically much easier than the 1st move, is high up over a bad landing. Huge thanks to Gaunt who did some epic cleaning of the top of this boulder, I ended up doing 0 scrubbing, and for the built up landing that made the pad situation far more reasonable. Probably v9 for the difficulty + 1 for the highball factor. Will be back for Relic when my wrist is in a better place. Also thank you to Mitch for the spots and extra foam, could not have done this solo.
|
950
7c+
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2022-03-21
Red point
|
Red point |
The Last Bastion
6A+
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
Felt harder than v3. Rapped off the top without hanging the holds to set up the rope for Mitch ... who coulda been a bit more liberal with the chalk. Can't believe I didn't climb this til now!
|
450
6b+
(6a+)
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2022-03-21
Flash
|
Flash |
The Battlement
7C
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
2nd ascent?! Not sure anyone has done this since Micah's FA. Built a small landing for the small stream. Fun mini rig with big moves. Topping out would be terrifying but holds are probably there. Thanks Mitch!
|
900
7c
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2022-03-21
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Pop Rocks
8A
Boulder
at
Wonka Cave Boulders
Went down with less fight than I expected but still with a punt, hanging on the right hand over around the lip before the jug. Warmer (near perfect temps in mid 40s I think) conditions than last week made this feel more approachable, and all of the beta refinement the week prior notched this down a good deal. I think entry level v11 as certainly harder than Disco Factory. Maybe my 2nd fav in the roof after Rock Candy. The train has gotta stop some time ...
|
1000
8a
|
Wonka Cave Boulders | Boulder |
2022-03-20
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Rock Candy
7C
Boulder
at
Wonka Cave Boulders
Cold AF in this cave today despite the air temp being in upper 30s. Ridiculous weather shift from warm and sunny in the mid 60s on Friday to 6 inches of snow Saturday morning and lows in the upper single digits on Saturday night made the rock COLD. I really struggle with the low crux move on this, finally seemed to figure my exact foot placement. Feels damn hard for V9 although that may have been the cold and numbing out talking. Pop Rocks is gonna be hard hard to link.
|
900
7c+
(7c)
|
Wonka Cave Boulders | Boulder |
2022-03-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Soundbite
8A
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
Well fuck me sideways. Finally nailed the big move on this baby. The first move beta switcharoo made all the difference, could not have done it otherwise. Still felt like a barely there and hard enough that I might not be able to repeat easily. Unfortunately comes down to 1 move although you could still drop the top. Solid 11 seems fair with the number of days I put into this, although conditions are especially important for the right hand dish. Another good-un by Marley.
|
1000
8a
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2022-03-10
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Creek Spirit
7C+
Boulder
at
Sonnyside Boulders
Downright beautiful boulder. Over the top psych by Zack Smith made this happen with a reasonable trek and a fuck ton of top out and landing work. Had sussed the beta a week or so before cuz the crossover was way to violent on my ailing right wrist and elbow. This boulder has more to give ... and Big Wave Surfing!!!!
|
950
7c+
|
Sonnyside Boulders | Boulder |
2022-03-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Low Hum
7C+
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
I promise it is V10. Also, fuck Relic.
|
950
7c+
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2022-03-08
Red point
|
Red point |
Poached Egg
6B+
Boulder
at
Salmon Run Boulders
WOWOWOW. This line may be the best of the grade at the new. Unbelievable. Only detractor is the landing which could be partly remedied with some strong backs. And to be such a short walk from the car. You guys make it too easy on me. Hung on the jugs to warm up so no flash.
|
550
6b+
|
Salmon Run Boulders | Boulder |
2022-03-06
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Poached Leg
7B+
Boulder
at
Salmon Run Boulders
A bit dabby but more for the shirt than in reality. Face ends up being the crux. One more great climb that is practically roadside and was untouched.
|
850
7b+
|
Salmon Run Boulders | Boulder |
2022-03-06
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Tom Thumb
7C+
Boulder
at
Hominy
V10+ I think is fair. V8 into V8, just so happens the high V8 has a giant crux move. Marley/Gaunt's beta up top ftw. Still dropped the big move from the start once, fingers pinged off the lip of the hold. Next time I got up there (2 goes later?) I was jittery but determined to make it happened. Committed to a jump to the top shelf and lip cuz I was too tired and drying out to do it smoothly. The move on Butler's Break is enormous! More greatness on this wall.
|
950
7c+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2022-03-03
Red point
|
Red point |
Down With the Ship
7C+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Oh. Shit. This wall is such a pretty one with the reverse tiger stripes. I thought this was going to be MUCH harder (closer to 12 range) but slowly unlocking the sequence, in particular the leg/hip position for the toe jam/cam, made the bottom nearly a sure bet and the business at the exit crux mantle. V8 low into a V8 lip encounter, top few hardest mantles I've done, I pressed with the right palm on a vertical spot to get over the lip. Appreciate all the psych from Jeremy Rush, Zack Smith, Zak Roper.
|
950
7c+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2022-03-01
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Disco Factory SDS
7C
Boulder
at
Wonka Cave Boulders
Power endurance! Barely eeked this out despite feeling close the 2 sessions before. 3rd day on but 1st it was a high of like 25, 2nd was the following day and was more tired than I realized. Felt like I couldn't control the right hand undercling pinch as well today, the thumb catch on it crumbled and not sure how much that contributed or if my right hand was just tired. Hoping the fitness is building for the next challenge. Felt harder to me than Mark of the Beast and this is V7 into V8ish so can't imagine either is harder than V10.
Edit: The terrifying 2 finger pocket broke giving a 2.5 finger pocket that makes the stand rather easier and settles the grade at likely low end 9, probably low end 10 with the beta I used which is still possible but unnecessary.
|
900
7c
|
Wonka Cave Boulders | Boulder |
2022-02-18
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Paint Me
7B
Boulder
at
Hominy
Clean mini prow. Roper is insistent the early exit is better, but I disagree.
|
800
7b
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2022-02-16
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Bergy Bits
7B
Boulder
at
Hominy
First couple of moves are dabby but really a fun climb and love the mantle. Hard hard to the right but it needs some fixin'
|
800
7b
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2022-02-16
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Mark Of The Beast
8A
Boulder
at
Beauty Mountain Boulders
Made up my own silly sequence for this one. 3rd day, although feel like I'm only just now getting back into shape. Feels suspect to take 11, maybe a slash grade. I could have legitimate interest in the sit once I clean up alllll the other easier lines first. Very cool addition from Marley!
|
1000
7c+
(8a)
|
Beauty Mountain Boulders | Boulder |
2022-02-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Sell Ice to an Inuit
7C
Boulder
at
39 Bridge Boulders
Probably the best line out this roof. Kinda sharp but an easier start leads to neat edges, powerful campus and squeezy finish. Pat and Nic special. Now if only I can get a name for it.
|
900
7c
|
39 Bridge Boulders | Boulder |
2022-02-08
Red point
|
Red point |
Everlasting Gobstopper
7B
Boulder
at
Wonka Cave Boulders
Way too cold to climb today but really wanted to see this roof. Thanks for the tour Marley! Left most line in the main section of the roof, same start as Disco Factory.
|
800
7b
|
Wonka Cave Boulders | Boulder |
2022-02-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Bad Arts
7A+
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Waffled back and forth on plans for the day, finally with a combo of the lack of psych we landed on Minden. Sustained, proud rig, great vision from Zack! Line on the arete.
|
750
7a+
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2022-02-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Japanese Denim
7B
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Silky holds, fun jump, I don't like the top section as much as "Bad Arts". Met the dude who owns the driveway, he seemed reasonable, got the parking sorted -- don't tell the other Smith.
|
800
7b
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2022-02-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Paper Love
7A+
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Starts matched on the good jug a bit left of "Japanese Denim" and climbs up then right into the same topout. Seemed worth.
|
750
7a+
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2022-02-02
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Blue Hole, Unnamed 12
7B
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Could be an FA. One with the jump, 2 to the right of the tree. Topout isn't so bad on this one.
|
800
7b
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2022-01-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Blue Hole, Unnamed 13
6C+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
To the right of the cool tree. See of poison ivy but at least the leaves weren't there. Topout is a terrible cursed mess which is unfortunate because the rock and climbing is so good down low.
|
650
6c+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2022-01-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Rougarou
7B
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Old Nic Spruil line, resurrected by Zack Smith. Started low on a undercling to the right of the rail, didn't feel dabby and adds an extra level of pump. Maybe low 7 with this start?
|
800
7b
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2022-01-25
Red point
|
Red point |
Praise Santa
7A+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Praise santa, I flashed something. Rail on the back of Rougarou boulder.
|
750
7a+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2022-01-25
Flash
|
Flash |
Wendigo
7B+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
To the right of Praise Santa on the upstream side of Rougarou. Very low, dabby start which is the main detractor of an otherwise sweet mini-roof, powerful all the way through. Maybe FA?
|
850
7b+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2022-01-25
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Carboniferous
7B
Boulder
at
Cicada Boulders
Right of Calamite. Great boulder although I like Calamite a bit better. Fossils everywhere!
|
800
7b
|
Cicada Boulders | Boulder |
2022-01-13
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
I Am Groot
7A+
Boulder
at
Sascrotch Boulders
Great mini rig that I missed when walking this cluster. Such a clean boulder. Slab is gonna be tricky! 2nd after Roper.
|
750
7a+
|
Sascrotch Boulders | Boulder |
2022-01-13
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Lepidodendron
7B
Boulder
at
Cicada Boulders
Cool crimps made by big roof flakes into a powerful move to a great incut. Nice to climb quality rigs that aren't so committing.
|
800
7b
|
Cicada Boulders | Boulder |
2022-01-13
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Cinematic
6C+
Boulder
at
Cicada Boulders
WOW. Simply grand. Impeccable stone with flowy climbing to a highly committing top. Does not get better than this for highballs. Brilliant.
|
650
6c+
|
Cicada Boulders | Boulder |
2022-01-13
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Abandon Ship
6A+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Really freaking good if not one notch less aesthetic than Titanic. Left arete of Unplugged wall. More hard hard to be had on this face.
|
450
6a+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2022-01-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Hominy, Unnamed 03
6A+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Biggggg stretch slab on the Hominy boulder up and to the right from Titanic, Zak did first this day.
|
450
6a+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2022-01-12
Flash
|
Flash |
Titanic
6A+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Fantastic. 3 or 4 star for the grade. Some things broke pretty easily when we climbed it, could be an FA by Roper. Blew the flash with a pad dab on the 2nd move.
|
450
6a+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2022-01-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Unplugged
7B
Boulder
at
Hominy
Likely FA. Cold COLD day but we prevailed. Moves felt easier in the 40s when I came back to this boulder. Gorgeous streaked wall.
|
800
7b
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2022-01-10
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
The Chonk
6A+
Boulder
at
Chonk Boulder
Quite fun, a bit scary. Zak with the FA
|
450
6a+
|
Chonk Boulder | Boulder |
2022-01-06
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
The Chonk Right
6B+
Boulder
at
Chonk Boulder
Techy up the right side of the arete.
|
550
6b+
|
Chonk Boulder | Boulder |
2022-01-06
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
The Earth Trembled Beneath His Feet
7A+
Boulder
at
Chonk Boulder
Left side of the face and arete with the sharp iron underclings. Dicey. Probably would benefit from some landing work.
|
750
7a+
|
Chonk Boulder | Boulder |
2022-01-06
Red point
|
Red point |
O Lawd He Comin
6C+
Boulder
at
Chonk Boulder
Fun techy traverse on thin holds into
|
650
6c+
|
Chonk Boulder | Boulder |
2022-01-06
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Phantom Nail Sit Start
7B
Boulder
at
Sonnyside Boulders
Took me quite a bit to warm up to this and commit to using the farther left crimp. Great line, thanks for cleaning her up Zack!
|
800
7b
|
Sonnyside Boulders | Boulder |
2022-01-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Sonnyside
6A+
Boulder
at
Sonnyside Boulders
Excellent line, just tall enough, grand holds. Lisa crushed it! Not 100% this is the name for this one.
|
450
6a+
|
Sonnyside Boulders | Boulder |
2022-01-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Spiggy G Low
7C
Boulder
at
Sonnyside Boulders
Feels a bit incomplete not starting matched on the right hand undercling but the feet just don't work that way! Glad I didn't have to use the knee bar shenanigans. 2nd?
|
900
7c
|
Sonnyside Boulders | Boulder |
2022-01-05
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Sascrotch SDS
7B+
Boulder
at
Sascrotch Boulders
The 1st and best boulder I saw on the walk out to Long Point in early 2021. Excited to come back for the harder line up the face! Brilliant rig.
|
850
7b+
|
Sascrotch Boulders | Boulder |
2022-01-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Walk the Plank
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I think I did these all this same day?
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
Flash
|
Flash |
Margarita Mama
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I think I did these all this same day?
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Chicago Style
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I think I did these all this same day?
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
Flash
|
Flash |
My Slice of Pie
6B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Kinda cool.
|
550
6b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
Red point
|
Red point |
The Corner
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
Red point
|
Red point |
The World's Longest Sloper
7B
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Gotta be the damn energizer to make it all the way through this rig. Felt hard hard at the end of the day.
|
800
7b
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Anemia
3+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
150
3+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
Flash
|
Flash |
Schistocyte
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
Flash
|
Flash |
Neutrophil
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Albumin
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I would have enjoyed this even more if it wasn't slab number a million in the last month. Really a good one.
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
Flash
|
Flash |
Anticoagulation
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I really like the holds on this one.
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
Flash
|
Flash |
Hamburger
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Took me a few goes to commit to the topout.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Blackbeard
7A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Glad I could get in some more once in 10 year rigs before the water came back up.
|
750
7a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Star Struck
6B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Not as good as Twinkle Toes but still fun!
|
550
6b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Twinkle Toes
6B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
A shame this half of the boulder is in the water most of the time. Really good.
|
550
6b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
The Only Thing That Sucks Is Your Grade
7B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Merry Christmas! Happy Covid! Tricky tricky.
|
850
7b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Maiden Voyage
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Last of the dayyyy.
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-15
Flash
|
Flash |
Mutiny
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
These slabs are so much fun!
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Happy Wife Happy Life
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Might have climbed this with my balls hanging out of my boxers due to my pants being a mess from going knee deep in the mud on the way to this boulder.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-15
Flash
|
Flash |
Dulce Periculum
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Respice Finem
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-15
Flash
|
Flash |
Ad Meliora
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Nice shorty.
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-15
Flash
|
Flash |
Carpe Vinum
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Captain Ahab
6C+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Amazing day. Almost died in the mud.
|
650
6c+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-15
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Moby Dick
6B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Maybe the native americans climbed this thousands of years ago.
|
550
6b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-15
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Monstro
7A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
A bit crumbly, but what do you expect for being under water for 10 years at a time.
|
750
7a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-15
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
The Pump
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Used this as the down climb.
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Red point
|
Red point |
No Diaper Needed
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Best on the wall.
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Flash
|
Flash |
Screaming Barfies
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Too Many Moves
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Flash
|
Flash |
Endurance Is Boring
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I can't remember what I did and didn't flash.
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Clippy Things
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I. Climbed. Every. One.
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Flash
|
Flash |
Pantheon
6B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I liked it, felt techy in my fatigue.
|
550
6b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Maison Carree
6C+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Hail Mary end of the day trying to get this guide together.
|
650
6c+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Arch Of Constantine
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Flash
|
Flash |
The Forum
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Flash
|
Flash |
Hostilian
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Sweet giant block flake. Don't die.
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Caligula
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Uncomfortable start holds.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Tiberius
7A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Not as good as Augustus but still excellent.
|
750
7a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Flash
|
Flash |
Augustus
7A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Ohhhh shit almost died on the top of this rig, had to sort the topout on the fly on a rather warm day without chalk over a landing that was not sufficiently padded. Lovely slopers, just bring a friend so you don't die.
|
750
7a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Nero
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Incredible holds. Maybe something on the slab around right?
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Flash
|
Flash |
Non Nobis
7C
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Tiny crimps! Scrunch! I see not many repeats in the future!
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Heretic
7B
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Lovely crimps.
|
800
7a+
(7b)
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Seige of Antioch
7B
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Took me a bit to figure the best beta for this little guy, wish I hadn't missed the footage.
|
800
7a+
(7b)
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
FPS Doug
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
My hands are shakin', my heart is racin', but I'm still getting headshots. Boom! Headshot! BOOM! Headshot!
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Home Slice
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
So-so.
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
Flash
|
Flash |
Calzone
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Really quite good but doubt it will get climbed often.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
Flash
|
Flash |
Little Slicily
6C+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Heady!
|
650
6c+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Chop Mark
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Meh.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Gold Doubloon
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Amazing.
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
Flash
|
Flash |
Kaboom, Kaboom, KABOOM!
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
Flash
|
Flash |
Hot Oil and Bisquick
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
Flash
|
Flash |
Operation Stocking Stuffer
3+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Lovely.
|
150
3+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
Flash
|
Flash |
Kwalski, Give Me Options
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
Flash
|
Flash |
Never Swim Alone
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
Flash
|
Flash |
Rapscallion
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Parsec
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Something was making hissing noises in the crack to the right.
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Zone of Avoidance
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Not a flash cuz I did the line into it 1st. Probably my fav on the boulder.
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Silver River
6C+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Meh, weird.
|
650
6c+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Backbone Of The Night
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Keplerian Dynamics
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Banana Hammock
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Dirty dirty. Not sure this is out except at the 10 year low?
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Skinny Dipping
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Damselfly
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Winged Warrior
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-09
Flash
|
Flash |
Town Bicycle
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-09
Flash
|
Flash |
Waste Of Space
6B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
This thing sucks.
|
550
6b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Squeeze Me, Please Me
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-09
Flash
|
Flash |
LH Is My Baby Momma
7A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
750
7a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-09
Red point
|
Red point |
I Cheated On LH
7B
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I dig this one and the arete.
|
800
7b
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-09
Red point
|
Red point |
JB Is My Sugar Daddy
6B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
550
6b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Onions Have Layers
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-09
Flash
|
Flash |
I Cheated on JB
7B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Couldn't figure this one out last year, pretty quickly with new insight. I like it.
|
850
7b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-07
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Pleat
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Don't think I did the line to the right. Scary top!
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-07
Flash
|
Flash |
Bobbin
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Frogging
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Excellent.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Notions
6C+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
650
6c+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Needlework
6B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Did this at a later date than the 7th but unsure which, did everything else on the boulder on the 7th tho.
|
550
6b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Needlework (left elim. var.)
7A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Cool holds, powerful move to the lip.
|
750
7a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-07
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Bumblebunching
7A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Such a cool, hard mantle. Moved rocks outa the way for the start, likely FA.
|
750
7a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-07
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Crochet Hook
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-07
Flash
|
Flash |
Napster
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Guess on the date but like 98% I did this at some point in the month.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Death Busters
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Subtle and cool. Coulda been an FA?
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Dark Kingdom
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Probably FA. Did this a much harder way.
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-02
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Peg Leg
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Pretty sure I flashed.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-02
Flash
|
Flash |
I Lost My Glass Eye!
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Can't remember if I did Cutlass too.
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-02
Flash
|
Flash |
Skeleteen
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-02
Red point
|
Red point |
The Shelf
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-02
Flash
|
Flash |
Server Stacks
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-02
Flash
|
Flash |
Rack Rack City
4
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
200
4
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-02
Flash
|
Flash |
Stacks on Stacks
6B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
550
6b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Racks on Racks
6C+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Loose flakes pulled off, def FA.
|
650
6c+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-12-02
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Hemoglobin
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Lovely rail!
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-30
Flash
|
Flash |
Myoglobin
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Even if it's sorta contrived the climbing is awesome.
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-30
Flash
|
Flash |
Ferrous State
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
In betweener
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Rhabdomyolysis
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Weird for an arete.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Crescent Face
6B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Beautiful and pure, tricky getting over the angle change.
|
550
6b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-30
Flash
|
Flash |
Standing on the Moon
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
The holds are simply pleasant.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-30
Flash
|
Flash |
Coxsackie
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Funky.
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-30
Flash
|
Flash |
Fecal-Oral
5
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
300
5
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-30
Flash
|
Flash |
Hand, Foot and Mouth
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Ended up being pretty fun, took me a few goes to figure out the underclings.
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Breaking the Cast
7B
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Left Boulders
Felt easier than Iron Age but I was all warm.
|
800
7b
|
Hawk's Nest Left Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Iron Age
7B
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Left Boulders
DAMN. 1.5+ hours of landing work with Alvie as this no longer is out of the water. Big lock-off feels hard! Definitely felt harder than "Breaking the Cast". Gorgeous wall that is lit up by the sun most of the day, excellent cold weather locale. Nearly finished up the mega-classic moderates already established at the New.
|
800
7b
|
Hawk's Nest Left Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Toe Jam
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I think I climbed this.
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Pocket Candy
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I think I did this? Coulda been a flash? So hard to remember. I don't think I did "Why Is It Sticky?".
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Forsythe Associates
6C+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I topped out on the far right, couldn't figure out Stella's trickery. Could be an fa?
|
650
6c+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Blast Door
7B
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
?FA?
|
800
7b
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Betting Man
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I'm quite certain I did this as did Lisa.
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-21
Flash
|
Flash |
Futures Left
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I think I did this one but not Teasers and Pleasers?
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Over Under
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
450
6a
(6a+)
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-21
Flash
|
Flash |
Futures Right
6C+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I don't remember much other than possibly being an fa.
|
650
6c+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Whistle While You Work Left
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Scariest of the variations.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Whistle While You Work Right
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Probably the best of the 3 variations. Don't remember if I flashed or not.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Whistle While You Work Center
6C+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
New river glowwwww
|
650
6c+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Summersville Flatiron
6C+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Questing.
|
650
6c+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Easy Over Looker
6C+
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
Now a post-break ascent. If you heel-toe around left and sit with your weight far to the right it makes the 1st move a bit less awkward. Originally did this on 2014-09-14, had no comment at the time.
|
650
6c+
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Ninja Turdle
7A+
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
Did Ninja Turd 1st, this adds difficulty but probably Low end/high end for the two lines. I like the last move where you go quickly to the lip off the bad left hand. Close on Sound Bite?!
|
750
7a+
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2021-11-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Carnegie
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Start on best incut on the left side of the shelf, right hand to left of the two crimps, left hand to the ear pinch, again left to the flat edge and up, then trend right. Sorted the beta and Marley knocked her out the go before me. Will need to come back for the middle line when my finger is feeling better.
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2021-10-28
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Unnamed 1, Gilded Wall
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Start on the right most, juggy part of the big shelf, trend right through an incredible, small but still oh-so-grippy left hand crimp. Marley once again with some beast-mode beta, while I rode the heel and toe on the start hold as long as I could. Hard 8 or soft 9?
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2021-10-28
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Ripple Effect
7B
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders
2nd ascensionist, not 2nd ascent. This boulder is incredible, the best stone ever (seriously), sitting in the middle of the New River. Great find by Marley, surprised I missed this in the initial exploration of Nuttallburg. Somehow we skipped the section between Bigley Shortley and the Pelican, I suspect there is more greatness we didn't scout.
|
800
7b
|
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders | Boulder |
2021-10-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Laminar Flow
7C
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders
Start sitting on the left facing Iron gills, climb through the business then exit the easiest way out the roof. Great moves. Need to do the low low on the slick slick? Marley is too strong for his own good and did a much harder foot sequence. Glad this is still accessible for us pedestrians.
|
900
7c
|
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders | Boulder |
2021-10-27
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Wave Train
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders
Line between the Ripple Effect and the harder line. Rad undercling pinch and heel toe cam. More to clean up on this boulder. Poor odin's toe!
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg - Ripple Effect Boulders | Boulder |
2021-10-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Anglerfish Right
7A+
Boulder
at
Deep Sea Boulders
Anglerfish but when you hit the right hand jug, match and go to the small crimps straight above on the right face or giant move to the top of the boulder.
|
750
7a+
|
Deep Sea Boulders | Boulder |
2021-10-19
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Anglerfish
6C+
Boulder
at
Deep Sea Boulders
A beacon of light luring me up to this short but sweet arete. Start sitting, left in the seam, right on choice of a couple flat holds, stay on the arete all the way up.
|
650
6c+
|
Deep Sea Boulders | Boulder |
2021-10-19
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Cirque de la Lune
6B+
Boulder
at
Circus Boulders
2nd after Stella. Sweet knee-arm bar. Moved an enormous log out of the way, mostly because my chainsaw chain was dull.
|
550
6b+
|
Circus Boulders | Boulder |
2021-10-19
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Bring Me A Ladder SDS
7B
Boulder
at
Circus Boulders
Beautiful boulder, we might have detractor a star (or 3) with the mega low. V3/7 stand/sit or V4/8? Lake season has begun.
|
800
7b
|
Circus Boulders | Boulder |
2021-10-17
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Righteous
6A+
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
|
450
6a+
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2021-10-15
Flash
|
Flash |
All Right
6A
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
3rd after Lisa and Amanda. 1st line to go on the new block. Furthest right line with the boulder still at your back. New boulder in Jurassic park just down stream of Loki boulder.
|
400
6a
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2021-10-15
Flash
|
Flash |
Right of Way
6B+
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
3rd after Lisa and Amanda. Sweet pinch match in the middle. New boulder in Jurassic park just down stream of Loki boulder.
|
550
6b+
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2021-10-15
Flash
|
Flash |
Writer's Block
7A+
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
In between unnamed 7 and 8, right facing slopery feature, touchy foot work, humid day. New boulder in Jurassic park just down stream of Loki boulder.
|
750
6c+
(7a+)
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2021-10-15
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Ball Dr.
7A+
Boulder
at
Pawtuckaway
Took me quite some time to sort the beta on this one. Would benefit from better friction I suspect. Cool sequential block.
|
750
7a+
|
Pawtuckaway | Boulder |
2021-10-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Fuck the Method
7A+
Boulder
at
Pawtuckaway
2nd go. Cool bottom sequence heavily marred by an exfoliating, crystal top.
|
750
7a+
|
Pawtuckaway | Boulder |
2021-10-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Check the Method
7B+
Boulder
at
Pawtuckaway
Hardest part was getting on the wall. Used a pinch for the right hand, lowest useable holds, pinch made it easier to pull on the wall, Right foot I used a toe on the corner, made moving the foot for the move after grabbing the higher right hand sidepull pretty chill. Probably not V8.
|
850
7b
(7b+)
|
Pawtuckaway | Boulder |
2021-10-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Expanding Man
7C
Boulder
at
Pawtuckaway
Over starring this cuz the dyno is rad and I can do it. If I can do a dyno this quickly it's not that hard, but such a fun move. 25 minutes as the last problem of the drip, so psyched I tried it. Great 2 weeks in the Northeast hanging with Max and Yifan. Enjoyed myself greatly! Will be back. although maybe a couple years until I'm ready to sacrifice good temps to try some of the harder northeast lines.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Pawtuckaway | Boulder |
2021-10-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Ride The Lightning
7A+
Boulder
at
Pawtuckaway
Pretty cool, bet I would like it more when it wasn't stupidly humid in the forest. Wish it wasn't reachy. The mantle was def my favorite part. 2x for good measure. Love the trees and pine needles in this setting.
|
750
7a+
|
Pawtuckaway | Boulder |
2021-10-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Mr Natural
7C
Boulder
at
Pawtuckaway
Ehhhh I tried to go straight up but petered out, hadn't chalked up that high. Left heel bump beta, couldn't see myself pulling the big move.
|
900
7c
|
Pawtuckaway | Boulder |
2021-10-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Dopeman
7B+
Boulder
at
Pawtuckaway
These holds are refreshing change from the standard granite BS. Tension through the 1st few moves was surprisingly hard! Greaseeee.
|
850
7b+
|
Pawtuckaway | Boulder |
2021-10-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Book Of Names
6C
Boulder
at
Happy Valley
Rock ain't the best but the climbing is superb. Top was damp. Would love to get back here when things are dry. Should have listened to Doug when he told me it was probably wet. 2 crag day, Max single-sessed pipe dreams!
|
600
6c
|
Happy Valley | Boulder |
2021-10-08
Red point
|
Red point |
Illustrious Buddha
7B+
Boulder
at
The Trapps
Took me way to long to figure this one out, despite watching multiple videos as I was sitting under the boulder. Once I finally unlocked all the moves I sent next go. Felt like I was learning to rock climb all over again. Tried Crouching Dragon which felt hard, my anti-style and pure power which I don't have. Next day walked out to Even Lovely, only to find it wet, however this bitch is CURSED. Like the worse curse at the Gunks. Art of Nothing has the smooth rock but wasn't up for a crimp fest. Was psyched on the visual of Jabhoo, only to find it as a dabby POS with cool holds. And quite the AAC campground scene. Parked between the sprinter vans. Dude knocking out his hanging data on the woody.
|
850
7b+
|
The Trapps | Boulder |
2021-10-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Babies with Rabies
7C+
Boulder
at
Farley
Wasn't sure I had the skin after snapping off the right hand for the first move too many times a couple of days before. No expectations set me up well. Doug brought the psych! Such a lovely day. Dragged 2 big organics and a blubber up the brutal hill for a 2nd time this week, felt less severe this time around. Lower end I think but felt a notch harder the pipe.
|
950
7c+
|
Farley | Boulder |
2021-09-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Stereogram
7C+
Boulder
at
Farley Ledges
Climbs amazing like, a shame it's out of a hole. Felt terrible and slick initially, clouds rolled in and some brushing later the stickiness settled. Probably similarly low in the grade range to Babies?
|
950
7c+
|
Farley Ledges | Boulder |
2021-09-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Appetite for destruction
7B+
Boulder
at
Farley Ledges
Big boy. Fell off the top 2 days prior in the dark at the end of the session, 2nd go today. Scared myself on the lip that I had not chalked up and straddled the lip in fear of slipping to my death to the right. Gave Big a few goes but ain't go no jumping in me at the end of the day. Solo!! Tough, but probably more scary and surprisingly techy than truly difficult.
|
850
7b+
|
Farley Ledges | Boulder |
2021-09-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Thrill of victory
7B+
Boulder
at
Farley Ledges
Oof the shoulder move at the end of the day. Sorted the body position with all my fingers taped on the right hand, then went for the 1-go-no-tape but ended up with 2-goes-no-tape for the send. Major struggle at the end of 7 hours of climbing. What a day! I hope Doug comes to visit WV.
|
850
7b+
|
Farley Ledges | Boulder |
2021-09-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Pipedreams
7C+
Boulder
at
Farley Ledges
Is this the original Pipe Dreams (not Pipedreams)? Best single line I've seen in New England so far, yes better than the Speed boulder cuz that's a mess of stuff. Barely stuck the finish and struggled with the top out. Solo night session for some reasonable conditions, but still before the cool air really set in. V9, I'm not here for the vacay grades.
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Farley Ledges | Boulder |
2021-09-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Sneaky bird
7C
Boulder
at
Farley Ledges
Started my Farley experience with this funky experience. Speed of Life looks terrifying.
|
900
7c
|
Farley Ledges | Boulder |
2021-09-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Green Goddess
7B
Boulder
at
Great Barrington, Ma
The worst on the wall. Scrunch AF. 2nd go, went to the wrong hold below the lip on go 1. Facepalm.
|
800
7a+
(7b)
|
Great Barrington, Ma | Boulder |
2021-09-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Fen Fen
7B
Boulder
at
Great Barrington, Ma
Star detracted for the early exit through the dirty seam. Sharp-ish.
|
800
7a+
(7b)
|
Great Barrington, Ma | Boulder |
2021-09-26
Flash
|
Flash |
Castellete
7C
Boulder
at
Great Barrington, Ma
One star cuz I like the foot cut move after controlling the good slot with the left hand. "New School" beta starting with right hand in the crimp, left on the undercling. Feels incomplete and in between, probably the dumpiest on the wall.
|
900
7c
|
Great Barrington, Ma | Boulder |
2021-09-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Big Big Love
7B+
Boulder
at
Great Barrington, Ma
This ridiculous shenanigans is why I boulder, won't see anyone pulling this on a rope. Needed beta help from Dean (? -- with Jordan). Tried Something but it felt hard cuz I'm out of shape and this bakes in the sun all day.
|
850
7b+
|
Great Barrington, Ma | Boulder |
2021-09-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Spack
6B+
Boulder
at
Great Barrington, Ma
Getting the day started.
|
550
6b+
|
Great Barrington, Ma | Boulder |
2021-09-26
Flash
|
Flash |
The Bump
7B+
Boulder
at
Great Barrington, Ma
I forgot what I wrote here the 1st time around.
|
850
7b
(7b+)
|
Great Barrington, Ma | Boulder |
2021-09-26
Flash
|
Flash |
God of Mischief
6A
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
1st line I did on the back of this ripple filled boulder
|
400
6a
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2021-09-19
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Reset Charge
7A+
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
Mini Roof behind the ripple (Loki?) boulder. Really wanted to start lower but couldn't figure out how to get off the ground with the insane dab factor. 3 mover.
|
750
7a+
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2021-09-19
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Pruned
7A+
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
Wooo a couple hard moves followed by some water smoothed finish pleasantries. So glad there is the start hold underneath this roof. The finest rock.
|
750
7a+
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2021-09-19
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Fall From Grace
7A+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Boulders
Block go boom, and a wondrous compression line is born. Blew the flash, 2nd go.
|
750
7a+
|
Hawk's Nest Boulders | Boulder |
2021-09-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Fishing with a Chipmunk
7C
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Boulders
Tough few mover tucked on the side. Not bad, also not all that great.
|
900
7c
|
Hawk's Nest Boulders | Boulder |
2021-09-02
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Cosmic Rings LDS
7B
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Boulders
The low start (lay down start) may be a 1/2 star detractor although less dabby than anticipated. I enjoyed it!
|
800
7b
|
Hawk's Nest Boulders | Boulder |
2021-09-02
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Mammatus
7B
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
Fuck me sideways, another successful strike mission. Watched the water all week as it somehow rose twice on the meadow despite relatively short bursts of rain, then the slow drop after. Too much anxiety as I was unsure if it would be low enough to access this boulder. So psyched it required minimal landing working to cover the small stream underneath. More improbable boulders sitting smack in the middle of the Meadow River. One hard start move into jugs followed by a lovely compression sequence. Spectacular quality rock, consistent climbing, an amazing setting. This is what I climb for and why I moved to the area.
|
800
7b
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2021-08-29
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Mammatus Right
7B+
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
Adds a difficult start sequence and pump factor into the brunt of the left variation. Calculated risk with a couple of moves over the unprotected stream underneath. I really want to see someone strong on the line to the right on the adjacent boulder! CFS around 120 when I did these lines. Much more to be had in this cluster!
|
850
7b+
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2021-08-29
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Storm Cell
6C+
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
Fuckkkkkkk, saw the wall of rain approaching as I pulled on and went for it anyway. Couldn't let the last couple of hours of landing work (moving rocks) and scrubbing go to waste. Who knows when it would be climbable again? Rad iron pocket perfectly fits one hand, stacked to start, hard first move followed by easier climbing and one more big pull. Got in a stance before the final small mantle just before the boulder was completely soaked and had to pull out the last move totally wet. Worth it. A couple more mega's in this area, a cool looking slab to it's left and a possible bounty worthy line?
|
650
6c+
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2021-08-15
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Shadow Puppet
7A+
Boulder
at
Karnage Crag Boulders
Maybe FA of this entrance? Climbs into 'High-step Arete'. Shadow match. The climbing is so good here that I almost forget it's mid August with 80% humidity in the mid 80s. This also shows a progression in my climbing, this used to look tall and imposing but felt comfortable going ground up. 5 or 6, high step felt hard and the crux, can't tell how much easier it would be when cooler.
|
750
7a+
|
Karnage Crag Boulders | Boulder |
2021-08-14
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Mud Grappler
6C+
Boulder
at
Karnage Crag Boulders
Hard first move cuz of no good feet then a few delicious, water polished incuts to the top. Gus and Shaun following with the 1, 2, 3
|
650
6c+
|
Karnage Crag Boulders | Boulder |
2021-08-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Mud Dauber
7B
Boulder
at
Karnage Crag Boulders
I'm wagering this is an FA but nobody really remembers. In the heat felt like probably 6 or low end 7.
|
800
7b
|
Karnage Crag Boulders | Boulder |
2021-08-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Trail Side Arete SDS
6C+
Boulder
at
Tuolumne Meadows
Kinda cool. Did it from a sit. Maybe an FA? Probably not an FA. Will give an an extra point from the original.
|
650
6c+
|
Tuolumne Meadows | Boulder |
2021-08-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Power of Geometry
7B+
Boulder
at
Tuolumne Meadows
430a wakeup call to get the temps on the last day of my Mammoth trip. Trip tips went right through me. Tried warming up on the Roof problem v4 and decided the mantle wasn't worth it. With my excellent move came and did this in about 20 minutes. Can't imagine this is v9 if The Giving Tree is also a 9 and Solar Power is also a 9 and Conquistador is an 8. Make it make sense. Tried the Giving Tree briefly until the sun melted my face.
|
850
7b+
|
Tuolumne Meadows | Boulder |
2021-08-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Lost But Not Forgotten
7B
Boulder
at
Tuolumne Meadows
One of the best of the grade in Tuolumne? Unimpressed. There are gems up here but this isn't it. Did it twice, once grabbing the left of the two crimps and jumping to the top, later the more classic method tick-tacking through the crimps.
|
800
7b
|
Tuolumne Meadows | Boulder |
2021-08-07
Flash
|
Flash |
Fear and Loathing in Tuolumne
7C
Boulder
at
Tuolumne Meadows
Entry 8 I think. First go after "Lost but not Forgotten". Would be just another random ass boulder at the New. Was looking for the vacation grades and found it. Great boulder for the crew however with morning shade and accessible climbs regardless of the grade.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Tuolumne Meadows | Boulder |
2021-08-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Meadow Face Sit
7C
Boulder
at
Way Lake, Mammoth
Felt hard. 3rd day, 1st day was end of session, 2nd day was wayyyy to hot, 3rd day 415am wake-up call and what was intended to be a surgical strike ended up with me reworking the entire problem. Barely felt like I established control of the start holds before making the 1st move. Tried to repeat but had 1 decent go then a total breakdown and couldn't do the 1st move. Better temps at 6a made a big difference but would still benefit from colder nights and temps. Maybe the most slippery problem I've ever climbed. It's really a crouch start/low start, no way I can see to start sitting and reach the right hand starting hold.
|
900
7c
|
Way Lake, Mammoth | Boulder |
2021-08-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Snake Eyes
6B+
Boulder
at
Tuolumne Meadows
I warrant the knobs are cool.
|
550
6b+
|
Tuolumne Meadows | Boulder |
2021-08-04
Flash
|
Flash |
Sunrise
6A
Boulder
at
Tuolumne Meadows
Felt rather harder than V2, but everything felt hard AF in the heat today. Conquistador has cool moves but ends up being a good amount of choss with endlessly exfoliating smears. Solar Power Sit has the most awkward first move; looks are not everything and IMO does not deserve full stars, maybe 3/4. Tuolumne is overrated IMO, but guess I should try it out when it's not so hot. Missing Nuttall hardcore right now.
|
400
6b+
(6a)
|
Tuolumne Meadows | Boulder |
2021-08-04
Flash
|
Flash |
Kauk Problem Sit Start
7A
Boulder
at
Tuolumne Meadows
First go, flashed snake eyes so couldn't flash this.
|
700
7a+
(7a)
|
Tuolumne Meadows | Boulder |
2021-08-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Black face
6C+
Boulder
at
Way Lake, Mammoth
5 points for the effort, 1 point for the scare factor. Pretty boulder. Friends don't let friends climb eliminates.
|
650
7a+
(6c+)
|
Way Lake, Mammoth | Boulder |
2021-08-03
Flash
|
Flash |
Hands and Feet Direct
7B+
Boulder
at
Way Lake, Mammoth
Left into gaston, right into sidepull above, then leftward into the series of jugs then into the jump. Fucked the topout, apparently I missed a hold that let me go rightward, had a gentle tree dab. Ethics :-/
|
850
7b+
|
Way Lake, Mammoth | Boulder |
2021-08-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Shake 'n' Bake
7C+
Boulder
at
Way Lake, Mammoth
Lovely grips. Exited left which I guess was not the original, but is the path of least resistance and avoids the awkward movement of the CONTRIVED right exit. No harder than 9 this way, probably low end, doubtful that the right exit would make this double digits. Way too hot in the morning for Meadow Face :-(
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Way Lake, Mammoth | Boulder |
2021-08-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Seam
6C+
Boulder
at
Way Lake, Mammoth
Hard, awkward, maybe deserves 1 star in the guide book for a visually obvious line but fails by all other accounts.
|
650
6c+
|
Way Lake, Mammoth | Boulder |
2021-08-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Black Buddha
7B+
Boulder
at
Way Lake, Mammoth
Quality compression rig. 1st day in the alpine since Tahoe about 1 year ago. 1st (full) day at elevation this trip and got wrekt on the hike in. Loving the colors in the rock up here, liking this better than granite. Gorgeous scenery. Weather held out despite lots of rain forecasted!
|
850
7b+
|
Way Lake, Mammoth | Boulder |
2021-07-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Meadow roof sit
7B+
Boulder
at
Way Lake, Mammoth
Wow somehow pulled this out of the bag despite lack of acclimatization. Dare I say, enjoyed the hand jam. If Black Buddha is 8 then this is 9, but both would be low end for those grades. I could see 7 and 8 in good temps. 1 grade apart regardless. Good start to the trip! Chilled on top of the boulder for a while with cell phone service ...
|
850
7c
(7b+)
|
Way Lake, Mammoth | Boulder |
2021-07-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Berry Picking
7B
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
Well fuck me sideways. Eyed these blocks from the shore back when my parents were visiting earlier this spring, made a mental note to return. Summer drought conditions make the meadow my favorite place to be, wading from shore to shore scouting boulders. There is NO reason this boulder should have amazing lines underneath it. Seemingly precariously perched, however survived the 2016 (?) flood so hopefully here for good. 88 degree highs, but shaded and water to cool off kept the psych alive. 2x for good measure. I think there will be a line out the left side but will have to return! Blackberries, wine berries, blue berries, bear berry poop.
|
800
7b
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2021-07-27
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Boxed In
7B+
Boulder
at
Jurassic Water World
Amazing stone but feel like you're avoiding the dab on the pedestal (not on per my discretion) and boulder leaning over top. Took several attempts to nail the big move off the undercling clean without dabbing the back of my hand on the rock. Probably a very hard direct dyno version is possible. Prep for my Mammoth Lakes trip!
|
850
7b+
|
Jurassic Water World | Boulder |
2021-07-27
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Johnson GT150
6C+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Forgot to log it! 2.5 days of trail work, landing work and scrubbing followed by a flash and repeat. Great holds, great movement. Still need to do the couple move compression line to its left.
|
650
6c+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-07-22
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Clown Shoes
7A+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Buy a boat. Learn to turn the boat on. Scour the lakes edge. Get stung by yellow jackets. Rip out LOTS of poison ivy. Get poison ivy. Scrub the boulder. Climb the boulder.
Lake bouldering can be a lot of work but damn these 4 star lines are worth it. Another visual stunner that climbs wonderfully, technical body positions over your feet soften otherwise challenging moves. World class. Looking for more.
Walking through a minefield with clown shoes. Bound for something to go boom.
|
750
7a+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-07-19
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Zero-sum Game
7B+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Jumped straight to the top 20 at the New, I believe. Getting harder and harder to keep the four star FA train rolling.
|
850
7b+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-06-23
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
A Certain Shade
7A+
Boulder
at
Lower Meadow Boulders
Hard for the grade, may be V7. Possibly the prettiest boulder face at the New, climbing is not quite as good as the spectacle, but still quality.
|
750
7a+
|
Lower Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2021-06-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Blue Hole, Unnamed 11
7B
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Farthest right mini-line on the patio under the Cathedral Fall's bridge. I assume this has been climbed before, but who knows. It was hot, I was out of shape, could be easier but took a while to sort some beta. Small finger friendly I suspect.
|
800
7b
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2021-06-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Let the Right One In
7B+
Boulder
at
Redbird
Proud line from Sandmann next to the oil tanks. From the low right. Fantastic jump to the jug with a committing finish. Lovely, quality rock, my later years may be spent in the woods of KY.
|
850
7b+
|
Redbird | Boulder |
2021-05-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Scared of the Light
7C
Boulder
at
Redbird
Starts on the same shelf as "Let the Right One In" but climbs straight up to a large, dynamic move off a weird foot jam. Love the dynamic movement. Probably 8/9?
|
900
7c
|
Redbird | Boulder |
2021-05-15
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Redbird, Unnamed 02
7A+
Boulder
at
Redbird
Around the corner to the left of "Let the Right One In"
|
750
7a+
|
Redbird | Boulder |
2021-05-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Shuttle Service
7C
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Fantastic compression rig that feels like I'm back on (very high quality) granite. First send with the new Send knee pad! Complete with a punt. The boat is beautiful. Snuck one last gem in before the summer heat? This face may have more potential but will be both hard hard and committing. The face on around the side also has my interest piqued. Maybe hard for the grade?
|
900
7c
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-05-13
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Keel Guard
7B+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Wow almost forgot to log this. Part of the 4 star lake woods circuit. Narrow compression. Single sess'ed. Can't believe nobody touched this when they climbed the boulders a couple hundred feet away in the lake bed.
|
850
7b+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-05-08
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Skylab
7B+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Line up the middle of the downhill face of the Skylab boulder. Technical, hairy topout on a sandy boulder. Woke up after not enough sleep to mostly dry weather after prediction of far more rain. Met Brian, shirtless.
|
850
7b+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2021-05-03
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Hominy, Unnamed 05
6B
Boulder
at
Hominy
Slab working the arete with your right hand, big boulder next to crack boulder.
|
500
6b
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-04-30
Flash
|
Flash |
Carbon Copy (Eliminate Variation)
7B+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Climbing the crack, block leaning on the right side of the main hunk is off. Was hoping you'd climb up the crack but the rock is too rough, ends up as a compression line after one kinda hand-jammy move to start. Still cool. Semi-eliminate.
|
850
7b+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-04-30
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Hominy, Unnamed 04
6A
Boulder
at
Hominy
Just amazing sculpted holds. Boulder to the left of the crack boulder, up the middle of the left face.
|
400
6a
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-04-30
Flash
|
Flash |
West Virginia King
6C+
Boulder
at
Atlantis Boulders
Left of 2 hueco wall lines at Atlantis. OMG the boat.
|
650
6c+
|
Atlantis Boulders | Boulder |
2021-04-26
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Safe Haven
6C+
Boulder
at
Atlantis Boulders
Zak with a brilliant spot as I exploded a crimp and went flying. Right of 2 hueco wall lines at Alderaan
|
650
6c+
|
Atlantis Boulders | Boulder |
2021-04-26
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Tomahamhawk
6C+
Boulder
at
Atlantis Boulders
Struggled to pull out the flash after watching Roper smash this. Mini prow to the left of the hueco wall at Alderaan.
|
650
6c+
|
Atlantis Boulders | Boulder |
2021-04-26
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Flooded
6A
Boulder
at
Atlantis Boulders
Crack on left side of Hueco Wall at Alderaan
|
400
6a
|
Atlantis Boulders | Boulder |
2021-04-26
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Anchor Buddy
7B+
Boulder
at
Atlantis Boulders
Lifer. Rockets to the top 10 list at the New. Pure and proud with the best movement. Huge thanks to Mitch for showing me this piece and Zak for the psych to come out here.
|
850
7b+
|
Atlantis Boulders | Boulder |
2021-04-26
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Far From Home
7C
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders
Incredibly narrow time window, somewhat self-inflicted, before work. This wall seeps and drips like the dickens but got a cool day with low humidity and had (mostly) dry holds. Chris and Alex randomly showed up (Chris made me poop my pants when he came around the corner as I was cleaning the topout), and of course they shared their skepticism and concern about me climbing this to to the top solo. Punted after traversing before the crack for the top, got pumped, wasn't sure I could repeat, got back there and scared myself from pump but pulled her out. Can't believe this sat undone. Low end 9, hard 8, somewhere in there. Hard hard to the right, long traverse pump fest starting to the left. Always more to be done. This one felt good.
|
900
7c
|
Hawk's Nest Parking Boulders | Boulder |
2021-04-23
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Tripwire
7B
Boulder
at
Sweets Falls
Big powerful moves. Weird iron circle hold that crumbled when I pushed on it with the back of a brush, also doubtful this has been done before.
|
800
7b
|
Sweets Falls | Boulder |
2021-04-19
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Sweets Falls, Unnamed 02
7A+
Boulder
at
Sweets Falls
Line that starts to the left of and climbs into Tripwire. Love the slaps.
|
750
7a+
|
Sweets Falls | Boulder |
2021-04-19
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Sweets Falls, Unnamed 03
7B+
Boulder
at
Sweets Falls
Line just next to the stairs at Sweets Falls. Love the heel toe, this ended up being easier than anticipated but powerful and cool. Cap to a great day.
|
850
7b+
|
Sweets Falls | Boulder |
2021-04-19
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Behind Enemy Lines
7B+
Boulder
at
Sweets Falls
1st I took down at Sweets Falls. Small but crucial crumbling of one of the underclings makes this unlikely to have been climbed before. Loving the rock down here, too bad it's sketchy to access.
|
850
7b+
|
Sweets Falls | Boulder |
2021-04-19
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Hominy, Unnamed 02
6B+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Lisa overcame her fears and pulled this one out of the bag! Great send by her. Fun line, to the left of the tree, small boulder on the way to the Fairy Tail block at Hominy.
|
550
6b+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-04-16
Flash
|
Flash |
Hominy, Unnamed 01
7B+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Stand start to the line to the left of Happily Ever After. More of a place holder until I can finish the full rig, hopefully. Joey Gruss with the fa?
|
850
7b+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-04-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Happily Ever After
7B+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Out-fucking-rageous. Fanning! Doesn't get much better than this. This and Sweet Subtleties are probably the best on the boulder.
|
850
7b+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-04-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Lox
7C
Boulder
at
Wood's Ferry and Mason Branch Boulders
3rd ascent I suppose but 2nd ascensionist. Marley pissed on this thing but felt hard with thin skin, probably entry v9 or high 8. First line I saw when I walked under this boulder when I visited.
|
900
7c
|
Wood's Ferry and Mason Branch Boulders | Boulder |
2021-04-03
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Sockeye
7B
Boulder
at
Wood's Ferry and Mason Branch Boulders
Behind Kory. Might need to attend to the crimp. Fun line.
|
800
7b
|
Wood's Ferry and Mason Branch Boulders | Boulder |
2021-04-03
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Leftover Salmon
7A+
Boulder
at
Wood's Ferry and Mason Branch Boulders
Had been waiting a long time to get on this boulder. 4 hours of landing work the day before and the climbable window for this gem is much larger.
|
750
7a+
|
Wood's Ferry and Mason Branch Boulders | Boulder |
2021-04-03
Red point
|
Red point |
King Salmon
7C
Boulder
at
Wood's Ferry and Mason Branch Boulders
Brilliant, committing face climb that breaks off from Leftover Salmon up the face. Cox through the crux a couple years ago but didn't have a clean topout? Marley followed me although started mid roof. This one is mega
|
900
7c
|
Wood's Ferry and Mason Branch Boulders | Boulder |
2021-04-03
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Desert Dreams Extension
7C+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Beautiful. Near continuous lip from sitting to 12+ feet. 3 days, 3 full sessions. Possibly the longest I've taken on any major project to settle on beta, everything the 1st day felt about the same. -Nearly- had it sorted on day 2 but couldn't link the 1st two moves into the rest. Come April 1st, low 30s after a day of heavy rain and I managed to swing her after an early morning wake up call. Water levels slowly creeping up the side of the boulder, landing was under by the afternoon. Missed the video on the 1st send, felt heartbroken and managed to eek it out a 2nd time a couple goes later. Most thin my skin has been in a long time! Feels hard 10 or maybe 11, difficult to grade because obviously friction dependent (although maybe less so than slopers would suggest). Barely sent the 1st time around, still struggled on the last big move off the lip on the 2nd send too. Looking forward to repeat attempts on this one!
|
950
7c+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-04-01
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Knights of Malta
7C
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
I knew this boulder would have the goods. Lovely that some of the large logs were moved out of the way with the temporary rise in water levels from the epic rain earlier in March. Definitely an FA, moved several rocks out from under the SDS. Techy left foot for the start! Small person friendly.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-04-01
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
The Damned
6C+
Boulder
at
Tatooine and the Outer Rim
Starts on the other side of the block of Tortured Souls, tosses toe hooks onto the mid start for Tortured and ends in the same spot as Tortured.
|
650
6c+
|
Tatooine and the Outer Rim | Boulder |
2021-03-27
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Hellfire
7B+
Boulder
at
Tatooine and the Outer Rim
This thing is dank. Done by Goodman back in the past sometime. Cut down the stump around the corner to see if another problem will emerge.
|
850
7b+
|
Tatooine and the Outer Rim | Boulder |
2021-03-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Tortured Souls Low start
7A+
Boulder
at
Tatooine and the Outer Rim
Fun mini-roof. Possible FA, snapped a hold. Short walk from the car!
|
750
7a+
|
Tatooine and the Outer Rim | Boulder |
2021-03-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Grits
7A+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Hominy Boulder. Just to the right of Amaizing, start on thin slots, big move up and left to the slopers on Amaizing, finish up Amaizing. Possible FA?
|
750
7a+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-03-26
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Amaizing
6C+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Hominy boulder. Starts in a horizontal on the left side of the face towards the creek, trends up and right towards the shelf system. Jeremy did starting left hand one move in.
|
650
6c+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-03-26
Flash
|
Flash |
Nixtamilization
6C+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Hominy Boulder. Crouch start on flat iron edges, powerful moves up to slopers, into easier climbing. Jeremy did this one as well!
|
650
6c+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-03-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Snorkel Mask
7C
Boulder
at
Hominy
Lake Finds boulder. left hand undercling in right hand start hold of Koozie, right hand on right facing sidepull. Trend up and right through pockets into Flipper. Hardest on the wall, likely FA. Took me a solid session to sort the moves then careful warm-up the next session and fired her first go from the start.
|
900
7c
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-03-26
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Right Flipper
7A+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Lake Finds boulder. SDS on two opposing crimps, left is a slot, right is a thin iron edge just inside the sloper/arete feature. Probably the most consistent, sustained line up the boulder. Totally smoked at the end of the day for my first session on this block and couldn't swing it til day 2.
|
750
7a+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-03-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Left Flip-Flop
7A+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Lake Finds boulder. Right hand on triangle pinch, left hand below, match on crimp rail and stand tall up and left to iron sidepull.
|
750
7a+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-03-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Right Flip-Flop
7B
Boulder
at
Hominy
Lake Finds boulder. Right hand on triangle pinch, left hand below, after a couple moves deadpoint into small slot with right hand and hop to the lip.
|
800
7b
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-03-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Left Flipper
7A+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Lake Finds boulder. Start with right hand pinching best part of iron band, head into the arete/sloper feature. Sustained!
|
750
7a+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-03-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Koozie
7A+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Lake Finds boulder. Starts high left hand, right hand paused in slot, cross big up over left hand, includes amazing gaston move. Probably my favorite on the wall! Possible FA. Modern name.
|
750
7a+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-03-23
Red point
|
Red point |
A.L.O.T.T.
7B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Holy shit this line is mega. Thanks to Kupferman for sticking around. Afternoon shade. A bit cursed but so worth. Wish I didn't fumble the footage, at least you can tell I climbed it.
A Little off the Top.
|
850
7b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-03-21
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Clear As Mud
7C
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Likely FA? The right side of the arete is so dirty! I think the current must cover it with mud. Early wake up call for acceptable temps down in the lake desert. Brilliant mini-rig.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-03-21
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Treasure Island
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Maybe FA? All time favorite slab. So scary. x2 for good measure.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-03-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Shallow Seas
6B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Pretty good! Lisa with the FA. How do I know? Because it was blocked by rocks before today.
|
550
6b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-03-19
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Run Aground
7A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Not a great one. Rocks in the way before today, definite FA.
|
750
7a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-03-19
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Rudder and Sails Extension
8A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
The traverse in from the start of Davey Jones' Locker. Major disappointment when the water came up 55 that's FIFTY FIVE FEET in 3 days including dropping some large drift wood under this boulder. Thought my window of opportunity was snatched from me by the 2+ inches of rain and I'd have to wait til fall. I guess it gave me the boost I needed when they reneged and started to drop the water back down ... rolled out that door at 8a on a sunny but cold Sunday after a brutal 3 day work stretch, and STILL didn't beat the sun which popped around the trees around 0930, furthering my anxiety of quickly abating send conditions. A few goes, each slightly better than the previous, a punt and finally the send burn. Haven't fought this hard at the end of a line for a long time, thought I was going to drop every move. The grade is hard for me on this one, hard v8 into hard v8 but with 12 moves to the 15ish moves to the "jug" the power endurance factor seems to bump it a grade for me. Not a proud line but in the sweet spot of difficulty. Bashed the back of my thumb trying to pull my dragon off while standing on top post send. And, acquired a left radial collateral ligament injury ... worth it? 2.5 sessions of effort. Sent the middle start on 2/25/21: Barndori chicken. Sorted the sit moves but way too hot in the sun to attempt further. Gonna be hard to link!
|
1000
8a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-03-07
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Sweet Subtleties
7B+
Boulder
at
Hominy
Two crag day! The glory of Hominy begins. Best line on the best single boulder at the New? Time will tell.
|
850
7b+
|
Hominy | Boulder |
2021-03-07
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
But Why Is the Rum Gone?
7B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Start sitting matched on lovely hidden undercling a couple feet left of the horn start of 7 Seas/ High Seas. One move to perfect mildly incut right facing side pull then dunk the jug left hand above, top out as Seven Seas. My favorite contrivance on the boulder, just lovely holds.
|
850
7b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-03-01
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Calico Jill
6B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Lovely progression.
|
550
6b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-26
Flash
|
Flash |
Indian Creek
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
A grand thing. Scary step up on the slab at the top, wiped the spot clean for all 3 sends up here.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-25
Flash
|
Flash |
Moonbeam
7A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Oh my goodness what a wonderful slab. The moon rose behind me during the send, a serene moment. This block and this cluster make me so so happy. Morphologic is the only detractor.
|
750
7a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-25
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Whistlepig
7A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Powerful roof. Broke some holds off this in the developing process (with my bare hands) and doubt this had been done before. Hard for the grade, a lot of tension.
|
750
7a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-25
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Fox 40 Classic
7B
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Guessing this is an FA. Threlfal repeated just after me. Very specific sequence. Found the whistle just after.
|
800
7a+
(7b)
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-25
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Sail the Seven Seas SDS
7A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Sorta a contrivance but is the mega mega line of this wonderful boulder. Did it from the horn 2 days earlier but felt a true sit was in order. Likely FA from this spot?
|
750
7a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-25
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Desert Dreams
7B
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Pulled out the piece from the start hold, possibly done before but obviously the FA with the now safer starting shelf. My favorite in the cluster so far, the lip is bliss.
|
800
7b
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-25
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Land Ahoy!
6B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Tricky and fun!
|
550
6b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-23
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Pieces of Eight
6A
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
The knee just happened.
|
400
6a
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-23
Flash
|
Flash |
Drunken Sailor
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-23
Flash
|
Flash |
The High Seas
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
And so begins a new revelation of bouldering at Pirate's Cove.
|
450
6a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-23
Red point
|
Red point |
The Seven Seas
6B+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Me likey these holds.
|
550
6b+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-23
Red point
|
Red point |
The Worst Pirate I've Ever Heard Of
6C+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Turd nugget.
|
650
6c+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Davy Jones' Locker
7B
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Such a good rock climb, no way this wasn't climbed before.
|
800
7a+
(7b)
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-23
Flash
|
Flash |
Rufio
7A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
1-2 with Amanda Smith.
|
750
7a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-23
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Tick-Tock
7A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
1-2 With Amanda Smith
|
750
7a+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-23
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Argh It's Driving Me Nuts
7B
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Likely FA. A contrivance but allows you to use two amazing holds.
|
800
7b
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-23
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Seamstress
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
This wall makes me happy. Start on good sidepull/underclings, climb straight up to good rail below the lip followed by a legit mantle.
|
450
6b+
(6a+)
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-21
Flash
|
Flash |
Cross-Stitch
6C+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
My favorite of the boulder so far. Climbs from the sit of Knitting rightward to Seamstress.
|
650
6c+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Aquatic Wasp
7B
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Likely 2nd ascent. Funky toe beta around the left. Novelty but worthy.
|
800
7b
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-21
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Dragonfly
6C+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Mini arete to left of Jame's line. Awkward, 0 stars.
|
650
6c+
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Knitting
6A+
Boulder
at
Pirate's Cove Boulders
Sit start low on crescent incut or right hand on undercling on the same feature, climb straight up to hard-ish slap to the lip.
|
450
6c+
(6a+)
|
Pirate's Cove Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Tusken Raider
7A+
Boulder
at
Tatooine and the Outer Rim
Rapped off without weighting any of the holds then swooped the flash. Another grand moderate ... the pinch makes we swoon. More Hoth conditions today than Tatooine but we got it done! New toys to melt boulders.
|
750
7a+
|
Tatooine and the Outer Rim | Boulder |
2021-02-20
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Bantha Poodoo
7C
Boulder
at
Tatooine and the Outer Rim
Epic on this one. Took a long time to sort the beta on day one, then pumped out post crux x2. Came back, fired her 1st go only for Caleb to break off the crux foot. Took several more goes to repeat with the inferior, slightly closer foot -- if this one breaks the problem might be done for. Harder than anticipated!
|
900
7c
|
Tatooine and the Outer Rim | Boulder |
2021-02-20
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Krayt Dragon
7C+
Boulder
at
Tatooine and the Outer Rim
And here I was nervous the boulders would be wet and instead enjoyed a brilliant sunshine day with a shirtless send in the middle of two nasty winter storms. I think the footwork is the crux.
|
950
7c+
|
Tatooine and the Outer Rim | Boulder |
2021-02-17
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Dragon Pearl
6C+
Boulder
at
Tatooine and the Outer Rim
Climbs the rail feature starting just left of Krayt Dragon. Lots broke and crumbled, gotta be an FA
|
650
6c+
|
Tatooine and the Outer Rim | Boulder |
2021-02-17
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Pod Racing
6A
Boulder
at
Tatooine and the Outer Rim
Arete to your right when you're standing looking at Utinni, except you do one move, grab an undercling off the heel and walk up the slab. Arete is way weirder, harder and less exciting than it looks :-(
|
400
6a
|
Tatooine and the Outer Rim | Boulder |
2021-02-17
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Straight Outa 'Bama
7B
Boulder
at
New River Boulders
Guessing this hasn't been done before. Seems like an HP40 classic. Brilliant Rock. Chill the go before me.
|
800
7b
|
New River Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-08
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Gettin' Twiggy With It
7A+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Oh damn this rig is amazing. The finest slopers the New has to offer. Can't believe I'm just now climbing this ... possible FA although that seems absurd, will have to ask around. Chill with the 2nd. Didn't do the undercling variation yet. Half grade easier than 'Bama.
|
750
7a+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2021-02-08
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Figurehead
6A+
Boulder
at
Tatooine and the Outer Rim
And so begins a new era of bouldering in the lake bed. The future is bright.
Flake may bust, repeated without, excellent with both betas
|
450
6a+
|
Tatooine and the Outer Rim | Boulder |
2021-01-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Utinni!
6B+
Boulder
at
Tatooine and the Outer Rim
Possible FA. Utinni = wow in Jawa. Lets get wrecked
|
550
6b+
|
Tatooine and the Outer Rim | Boulder |
2021-01-30
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
The Dance
7B+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Spectacular! Best/hardest slab I've climbed to date at the New. 7 to 8 range, will give a point for the commitment into standing on the shit foot for the crux. So many more lines at Blue Hole I had missed! Gotta do a moderate day soon soon.
|
850
7b+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2021-01-23
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Lord of Chaos SDS
8A
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
YES! Roper had tried the bottom moves yearsssss ago but I dismissed it at the time as both silly and too hard. Since then, it lingered as a side note in the back of my mind, as the original has always been my all time favorite boulder. Half the holds seem to be facing the wrong direction, on an at-first-glance impossibly steep angle, yet the trickery makes it work. It never seemed to be the right time: how long does the slot take to stop seeping? When am I up for the hike? Am I in good enough shape? Pads? Came out with Kory, Jeremy x2 and Chill but only had enough energy to suss the rad bottom sequence. While not a tight weather window in general, was my last day off before a string of nights that would end in more precipitation. So. Fucking. Good. It now feels complete and is unquestionably my all time favorite with a proper sit start, incredible sequence all by itself and a brilliant block. I abhor slash grades but probably is legit 10/11, will give it 8A until someone gives it the downgrade ;-)
Send of the original on 2015-5-3: This problem is outstanding. Fantastic movement with crazy double toe-cam drop knees, amazing holds, immaculate stone and the only line on the boulder in a beautiful setting. Props to Roper on a stellar FA. The sit moves obviously go and will add some pump factor. Somewhere in the hard 9 soft 10 range. Gotta find the names of the problem in the corridor and the white face lines!
|
1000
8a
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2021-01-12
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Off the Hook
7B
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
The unexpected continues. Had glanced at this face nearly every time I've been up here, figured the v2 face wasn't worth the funk landing and had likely already been climbed. Kory asked about it today prompting me to go peek my head under the back of the roof, only to find a magical mini-flake hold that makes the whole problem work. Had to rearrange a few rocks under the start to pretend I leveled out the landing, then called Chill and Rush over for some pads ... only to to get swiped! A worthy addition to Fern Creek. Please nobody break their neck. Hard 7? Powerful move to release the feet from the toe hooks.
|
800
7b
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2021-01-11
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Bossy Bottom
7B
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
Shorty to the right of F5. Ended up being a tricky little sequence and better than I anticipated. Felt hard.
|
800
7b
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2021-01-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Save the Trees
7B
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Far better than expected, little mini compression rig. Murder the Rhodos but save the trees :-) Hopefully our transplant will survive! My excitement for the roof line cannot be contained. Sandbag this.
|
800
7b
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2021-01-08
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Under the Radar
8A
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
Whooo! 4 full days of work on this baddy. 1st day sorted the moves half on a rope, 2nd day refined some foot beta and climbed it in 2 overlapping pieces but fell a couple times going for the far right crimp, 3rd day was a known gamble without enough time to recover from day 2 and sure enough ran out of skin and energy after my 1st go as a high point. A long work stretch and frustrating weather (holy hell it's been so much snow and rain) kept me from revisiting for about 2 weeks, and barely sneaking it in the weather window with the rain having already soaked the top out as I was sending. Feels like solid V11 for me, I could not manage the original beta, I think mostly because of reach, and had to figure a completely new, wacked sequence with a GIANT cross over mid climb. 5 star climbing but a 1 star line due to it being a contrivance off F5. I think the morpho plays heavy here although would love to see some other folks try it out, unlikely given it's impure nature. Still worthy for me needs!
|
1000
8a
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2021-01-05
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Creme Bruladies
7B+
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
Tick tack crimps, looks better than it climbs. Major fail on Under the Radar, but will come back with more skin and fresher! At least one off my list. Felt all 8 points at the end of the day with very thin skin.
|
850
7b+
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2020-12-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Lateral Collateral
7C+
Boulder
at
Wonka Cave Boulders
Scouted this a few years back but never wanted to commit to the long walk, not knowing how quickly this dries, what conditions I'd need or how hard it was. Finally pulled the trigger! Had a horrible punt 4 days ago off the ledge with the topout dirty, with an awkward fall. Messed up my knee and couldn't sleep due to the pain that night, thinking I was out for quite a while -- but miracles happen and 2 days later it felt substantially better. Was still a risk going out today with the snow melting, and sure enough water was dripping down the boulder but conveniently between the holds, nothing I used was even the least bit damp. My punt ends up to have been for the best, as I popped off the crucial left foot while warming up. Now maybe 1/4 to 1/2 grade harder. Powerful roof moves leads to a compression mid section with delicate finish. Full value, only detractor is the choss rock at the bottom. Some more mega lines in this cluster that need (more) love! Felt just a bit easier that Scuttle, definitely harder than Golden. Will be back with some heavy equipment!
|
950
7c+
|
Wonka Cave Boulders | Boulder |
2020-12-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Speedcuber
7C
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Had eyed this face every time I walked past the boulder but never had the vision to try any of the lines until this past year. While the aesthetics fall a bit shy of the Algorithmic face, the climbing is still amazing. One of the longest single day onslaughts of a boulder to date, about 6 hours from start of landing smoothing and topout scrubbing to the send. 3 hours with bad beta, first I unlocked the crux sequence thanks to my newly acquired ascender, then realized I was doing 2 extra hand movements at the bottom. Was quite tired by the time of the send and had destroyed my skin! I think V9 although difficult for me to grade given hours of both bad beta but also of wiring some of the moves. Definitely needs more love!
|
900
7c
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2020-12-03
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Just a Feeling
7B+
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
Line to the left around the corner from Hideaway. Had looked at this thing several times and always underwhelmed, although often wet and that gross loose block down at that start. Was 95% dry today and decided it was time to rip off the loose choss hold and make her happen. Thought she would be harder on previous scouts but the feet are just too good. I think FA? Would be a 3+*** line except that there are a couple perma-sand holds, it stays wet most of the time and the topout is weird with the tree and rhodos. Left the rhodos over the topout -- you can get in a stance then just grab the tree and sit in the notch while you contemplate your existence. Named from lyrics off the Kiesza song "Hideaway". Max with a quick 3rd day on send of Hideaway! Was sufficiently climb-able on the 4th dry day after a solid rain.
|
850
7b+
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2020-11-29
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Ripping Stitches
7B+
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Majorly committing, giant move just high enough off the deck to make me second guess myself before yarding. 4 tries? Probably 7/8 range, can't blame Mercer for jumping with low feet which would feel safer than jacking the high left, although the high left seems like the easier method. Thank goodness for the chill top. Damned is Bitches and wrecking my shoulder! 2nd ascent? Max with the repeat a couple goes after me!
|
850
7b+
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2020-11-27
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Scuttlebutt
8A
Boulder
at
Cotton Top Boulders
The heavy hitters keep on coming. Another insane rig just sitting there asking for love. Eric Jerome let me know of it's existence and takes credit for the fun name. Heady solo, but made it that much more full value. Some absurdly fine rock, a couple small feet that look like they want to explode but despite my best efforts will not. Feels like a single v8/9 move into another solid v9. Soft 11? Perhaps more my style than any hard boulder to date at the New. Triple tape over the right pointer for that wicked point. Too bad I ripped off the hold to the problem around to the right. Holy shit Power Stretcher is hard.
|
1000
8a
|
Cotton Top Boulders | Boulder |
2020-11-24
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Golden Gun
7C
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
WOW. 4 star + line. Can't believe this was tucked in the rhodo's all this time. Gorgeous boulder, quality moves with an awesome progression. Some epic construction work on this to make it full value. Kinda 1st, added in the 2 extra moves from the obvious good starting slot far to the right. Suspect this will settle at harder 9 in line with Old Bae, the low to Season's Change, Something Matters, etc. Nice job Cox!
|
900
7c
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2020-11-17
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Machine Gun Etiquette
7B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Spent 30 minutes flipping the rocks out of the way underneath the obvious bottom of the problem and adds 3 worthy hand movements and makes the line full, definitely not a contrivance and no tools needed to make this one happen. Now feels solid for/higher end 8 and that much more mega!
Original send on 9/12/20: Blew the flash pushing myself into standing from the arete at the end. F! Quite a good boulder! Entry level?
|
850
7b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2020-11-17
Red point
|
Red point |
6 Feet Apart
7B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Took me about 30 minutes to figure out the beta for the 1st move then sent a few goes later. Might be easier now that the beta was unlocked for shorter folk, I wasn't able to span the reach Josh Mowrer did (by like 5 inches?). Stand is called "Social Distancing" -.-
|
850
7b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2020-11-09
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Meadow River, Unnamed 05
7A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Just to the right of 6 Feet Apart. Roper with the FA, me with the 2nd just after. Mega.
|
750
7a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2020-11-09
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Flight of the Defibrillator
7C
Boulder
at
Meadow Top Boulders
30 minutes, 2nd go from the start after quickly figuring the beta. Some mega stretched out foot walking. That crimp seems like it's gonna blow. Yokohoma?
|
900
7c
|
Meadow Top Boulders | Boulder |
2020-11-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Campus Problem
6C+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Finally did this thing. Think I hung on some holds in the past so can't take the flash. Condensed day. End of the Rainbowwwww
|
650
6c+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2020-10-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Dark Incantation (left exit)
7C
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
FUNK. Huge move off the start leads to good holds out the roof into a bizarre sequence on progressively worse holds. A GIANT boulder with so much more potential.
|
900
7c
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2020-10-21
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Dark Incantation (right exit)
7B
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
FA Cox earlier this fall, busts out the roof then a couple moves traversing right into the v2 top using the solid chock stone.
|
800
7b
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2020-10-21
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Spooktacular
6A+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Same start holds (basically) as Dark incantation but climbs up and to the right. Great easier line!
|
450
6b+
(6a+)
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2020-10-21
Flash
|
Flash |
Book of Shadows
7C+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Fuck. This boulder is something else: about 25 hand movements until I'm established on the face ... on a free standing boulder in the middle of the river. A bit cursed but doesn't detract. V8/9 leads into a long, pumpy v7+, feels low end 10 mostly because of the pump factor. 2 days, worked on the moves with Chill then made a solo push with a 2 pad carry adventure. So close on the other roof!
|
950
7c+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2020-10-19
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Cybernetic
7A+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Boulder about 100 yards up the hill from Beauty Mountain Beat Down cluster. Flakey face around left. Likely FA by Kory today given what broke off.
|
750
7a+
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2020-10-17
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Android Prayers
7A+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Boulder about 100 yards up the hill from Beauty Mountain Beat Down cluster. Starts on big flat shelf on main face and trends left. Matt Jones then Eric Cox then me. Likely FA today.
|
750
7a+
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2020-10-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Binary Tales
6C+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Boulder about 100 yards up the hill from Beauty Mountain Beat Down cluster. Starts in hole on right of main face of boulder, trends slightly left and up. Matt Jones climbed it 1st of us today, could be an FA?
|
650
6c+
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2020-10-17
Flash
|
Flash |
Andromeda Extension
7C
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Didn't realize another line named Andromeda here at the New. Started on flat shelf on the corner. Stupid cross match 2 finger crimp on the hold above the original start. Dropped off from hands about 14 feet. Cool holds, funk ass sequen
|
900
7c
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2020-10-17
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Something Wicked
7B
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Cool rail feature. Lotsa weight on the arms. Followed immediately thereafter by Chill for Co-FA. This cluster is mega mega
|
800
7b
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2020-10-08
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Arete of Paladin
6C+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Heady move at the top! Brilliant. Need to do the slab to the right.
|
650
6c+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2020-10-03
Flash
|
Flash |
Thor
7B
Boulder
at
Meadow Top Boulders
Giving this the upgrade, feels hard for 7. Project on the cliff's edge will go?
|
800
7b+
(7b)
|
Meadow Top Boulders | Boulder |
2020-10-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Odin
7C
Boulder
at
Meadow Top Boulders
Extra star for really cool rock. Feels similar to Thor, less powerful but more pump. Don't think it's a 9.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Meadow Top Boulders | Boulder |
2020-10-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Super Happy Fun Ball
6B
Boulder
at
Burnwood Boulders
Amazing sloper. Harder than 3. I did use the foot for bag of pinches before the go on this, I think I'll take that as a flash still.
|
500
6b+
(6b)
|
Burnwood Boulders | Boulder |
2020-09-30
Flash
|
Flash |
When Kermit Goes Green
7B+
Boulder
at
Burnwood Boulders
3 total goes, 2 from the start. Probably v8. Could add a low climbing in from the left although you'd have to drag your ass over the rock wall.
|
850
7b+
|
Burnwood Boulders | Boulder |
2020-09-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Little Bag of Pinches
7A+
Boulder
at
Burnwood Boulders
Probs not a 6. Also did the V3 to its right, need to log.
|
750
6c+
(7a+)
|
Burnwood Boulders | Boulder |
2020-09-30
Flash
|
Flash |
Meadow River, Unnamed 04
6A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Hueco problem on slab side of the boulder before Machine Gun Etiquette. Lisa and I cleaned up this boulder ... line to the left probably will climb to the arete.
|
450
6a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2020-09-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Hand Gun Ethics
7B
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Amazed no one cleaned up this line, climbs from the obvious jug on right side of Machine Gun Ethics roof, traverses the lip leftwards into the end of Machine Gun. Cox with the 2nd. Cool ripples of iron patina to make the holds on the lip!
|
800
7b
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2020-09-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Meadow River, Unnamed 03
7A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Gotta stand up TALL. Definitely morpho. Left side of the swoop boulder (to the left of promotion).
|
750
7a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2020-09-12
Flash
|
Flash |
Target of Interest
7C
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Between the swoop proj and the arete, started on a funky pocket for the right and left incut just besides, didn't bother with the couple moves below (felt slightly incomplete). Michael was close! The swoop is the mega ...
|
900
7c
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2020-09-12
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Meadow River, Unnamed 02
6B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Diagonal slash/slot on the right of the face next to the water on the 1st mega boulder at Orange Wall. Humid AF this day, will need to go back for ALL the projects on this boulder!
|
550
6b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2020-09-10
Flash
|
Flash |
One and One
6C+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Beautiful boulder with an unusual double mantle. Unfortunately the 1st move is a bit scrunch and cruxy. Kinda Co-FA with Brandon. Great crew today with Brandon, John, Shaun, Lisa, Jamey!
|
650
6c+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2020-09-06
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Foxy Lady
7B+
Boulder
at
Tahoe - Kingsbury
Got out by 630 but didn't realize the sun lights this up the second it rises, did get a smidge of relief from clouds. Warm. 2x for good measure. Couldn't get my ass off the ground for Little Wing, probably need it to be 20+ degrees colder and not baking. End to a great 3 weeks in Tahoe, we'll see what Colorado holds!
|
850
7b+
|
Tahoe - Kingsbury | Boulder |
2020-08-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Electric Chair
7C+
Boulder
at
Lake Tahoe CA
445a wake-up call, made it to the boulders by just after 8a (after getting lost), still nice and shady. Quickly sussed out the moves and linked on 2nd try from the start after a whiff on the 1st move. Lower end 10 I think. Great setting, great boulder, although not a fan of the hollow crimp plate.
|
950
7c+
|
Lake Tahoe CA | Boulder |
2020-08-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Immaculate Conception
7B
Boulder
at
Lake Tahoe CA
Techy intro with lovely deadpoint to snatch the high crimp. Better than double or nubbin by a mile. Only major detractor is the hollow crimps.
|
800
7b
|
Lake Tahoe CA | Boulder |
2020-08-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Supernormal
6A+
Boulder
at
Lake Tahoe CA
Brilliant boulder. GPS showed 9 miles of hiking for the day?!?!
|
450
6a+
|
Lake Tahoe CA | Boulder |
2020-08-09
Flash
|
Flash |
Double or Nubbin
7A+
Boulder
at
Lake Tahoe CA
A novelty on the wall with a bunch of other problems, grabbing an uncomfortable nipple hold. I could make a case for 2 stars ... underwhelmed.
|
750
7a+
|
Lake Tahoe CA | Boulder |
2020-08-09
Flash
|
Flash |
Sesh Carter Low v8
7B+
Boulder
at
Lake Tahoe CA
Beautiful prow. If only the left hand incut wasn't the sharpest hold in existence, prophylactically taped most of my left hand. Wasted lots of skin and energy on the Sesh Harder boulder on the 2 move v8 ...
|
850
7b+
|
Lake Tahoe CA | Boulder |
2020-08-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Bonus Five
6C+
Boulder
at
Lake Tahoe CA
Great crimps. Tall and proud, obvious line, really quite quality. Probably should have a sit start from the obvious crimps down and right.
|
650
6c+
|
Lake Tahoe CA | Boulder |
2020-08-09
Flash
|
Flash |
Grand Design
7A+
Boulder
at
Lake Tahoe CA
Techy. Solid. Star ratings and directions for this area are wack. BRILLIANT sunset. Such an other-worldly environment on the granite slabs.
|
750
7a+
|
Lake Tahoe CA | Boulder |
2020-08-08
Flash
|
Flash |
Tequila Sunset
7C
Boulder
at
Summit Lake
Middle of the grade with good beta, not the tall-stretched-out-sauce that I saw videos of online. Got scared but it was grand. Great flow, crazy thin boulder.
|
900
7c
|
Summit Lake | Boulder |
2020-08-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Nitwit
7A+
Boulder
at
Summit Lake
1st go. Not a flash since I did Sunset already. Techy more so than truly difficult.
|
750
7a+
|
Summit Lake | Boulder |
2020-08-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Summit Arete
6B+
Boulder
at
Summit Lake
MEGA. Brilliant line, looks especially spectacular from down below. Feels WAY exposed mantling over the lip.
|
550
6b+
|
Summit Lake | Boulder |
2020-08-06
Flash
|
Flash |
Lying in Weight
7C
Boulder
at
Summit Lake
Would have flashed but was told to start with hands at equal height, left on start on, right on intermediate crimp instead of down on the undercling. Had to come back later after it had baked in the sun and was MUCH hotter, a few goes from there. Jacked my left foot WAY up there.
|
900
7c
|
Summit Lake | Boulder |
2020-08-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Kyle's Shlef Sit
7B+
Boulder
at
Summit Lake
Gonna keep the guidebook typo name. Ended up requiring very exact climbing to allow me to make the reach to the slot. Solid.
|
850
7b+
|
Summit Lake | Boulder |
2020-08-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Dave's Roof
7A+
Boulder
at
Summit Lake
First go, no flash since I did Kyle's Shlef already. Great problem.
|
750
7a+
|
Summit Lake | Boulder |
2020-08-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Purple Sticky Punch
6C+
Boulder
at
Summit Lake
Cool, but not that cool. Felt hard at the end of a 12 hour climbing day. Awkward start to jugs to skin-removing slopers. Capped off a cray day with guidebook 4,5,6,7,8,9,10. Thanks Mike and Nick (and Alvie)!
|
650
6c+
|
Summit Lake | Boulder |
2020-08-06
Flash
|
Flash |
Katana
7B
Boulder
at
Lake Tahoe CA
Did after Secret Weapon, 1st go. Almost blew it at the lip, had to try hard.
|
800
7b
|
Lake Tahoe CA | Boulder |
2020-08-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Secret Weapon
8A
Boulder
at
South Lake Tahoe
2nd day without too many punts, no epic'ing. Couldn't do the cross over on the underling, made up some heel scum beta instead. Thanks David for getting up so early! 4:30a wake-up calls making it happen.
|
1000
7c+
(8a)
|
South Lake Tahoe | Boulder |
2020-08-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Welcome to the Future
8A+
Boulder
at
Tahoe - Erratica
3 full sessions to put this amazing phallic block down. 1st was 2 days after arrival at elevation, did all the moves but not very close. 2nd day with a full value 3.5 hour session, refined the heel hook beta around the right side but not until it was too late for a send. Also with a legit punt, left hand up on the lip but couldn't keep the tension on the left heel. 3rd session I felt WAY better warming up, repeated the moves in 30 minutes and hit the last right hand a few times but couldn't hold it. Queue further beta sussing to find I was holding the last right hand too far back ... another punt whiffing it after bringing up the left hand.
Psyched to send but extraordinarily frustrated with my poorly managed process on the 3rd day, feeling amazing but still not having the beta dialed, prolonging my efforts and hampering those later on Secret Weapon. Always a learning process; this was certainly an uphill battle. Likely entry level for the grade if not a 10, felt maybe even easier than Bubba Lotep when I finally had it on lock.
|
1050
8a
(8a+)
|
Tahoe - Erratica | Boulder |
2020-07-31
Red point
|
Red point |
Rolling Thunder
7B+
Boulder
at
Lake Tahoe CA
Nice moves but dabby AF, not worthy of the 3 stars the guide gives, likely nor the 8 points.
|
850
7b
(7b+)
|
Lake Tahoe CA | Boulder |
2020-07-23
Flash
|
Flash |
Private Idaho
6B+
Boulder
at
Lake Tahoe CA
Neat climb with awkward start that has a heavy star detractor from the endlessly exfoliating rock.
|
550
6b+
|
Lake Tahoe CA | Boulder |
2020-07-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Deadwood
6C+
Boulder
at
Lake Tahoe CA
Contrived ... and I used the large ledge for my left foot although stayed on the (sketchy) flakes going up. Mehhhhh.
|
650
6c+
|
Lake Tahoe CA | Boulder |
2020-07-23
Flash
|
Flash |
Are We There Yet Arete
7B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Stumbled on this impressive block while searching for the Mud Hueco wall. Ends up it's an quick scurry up behind the Pebble. An easier entrance leads to delicate footwork requiring solid body tension with a constant fight for the barndoor. Will have to come back with cold temps for the tiny crimps to the right!
|
850
7b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2020-05-31
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
TMS
7C
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
Getting warm! Perhaps a bit contrived but nobody wants to clean up the monster lichen.
|
900
7c
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2020-05-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Loaded Biscuit
8A
Boulder
at
Wolf Creek Boulders
Had eyed this up for years, especially after McNeil got the FA in Nov 2017. A couple days of work in the fall/early winter were enough for me to suss most of the beta but didn't feel at all close. After building up power endurance through the last couple of months I felt potentially ready. On day 3, a heartbreaking punt left me with a split tip and small flapper, no energy for further attempts. The weather this season has been inSANE and another perfect weather day presented itself the 2nd week of May. Another couple falls on the crux move and I switched the beta utilizing the left toe and knee scum into a left heel, polishing her off the following attempt. 4 days total. With the toe and knee scum this felt hard V11, with the heel hook a bit easier, probably mid range, slightly easier than Dad Bod. This and Woodsdawg (aka Deep Fried) are outrageous -- two world class lines sitting alone, tucked side by side randomly in the woods. The topper to my best spring season, although at the cost of at least 1 finger injury (not from this problem specifically).
|
1000
8a
|
Wolf Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2020-05-09
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Guerrilla Warfare
7C
Boulder
at
Redbird
This bloc is INSANE (especially for KY). Great find by Sandmann, and so so SO appreciate him sharing these gems with me. From the low-low, the FA from this spot, although only adds 2 moves into the original. Used quite different beta than Sandmann, some unusual drop-down moves to set up for heading left. I'm climbing well right now, but seems like upper end V9? Certainly coulda been 10 with the original beta.
|
900
7c
|
Redbird | Boulder |
2020-04-18
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Hit-and-Run
7C
Boulder
at
Redbird
Full value. Same start as Guerrilla, but bust right after the 4th move and climb alllllll the way up the prow. A definite mega line. 20 moves to the jug?! Good thing I'm in power endurance shape. 1st go after figuring out the individual moves, glad I didn't punt on the last crimp seem horizontal. At least a hard hard 9, could be 10 although the difficult moves are at the beginning and the rest is all pump.
|
900
7c
|
Redbird | Boulder |
2020-04-18
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Bubba Lowtep
8A
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
I was highly skeptical of this one when Marley first told me about it. Certainly not the obvious start to Hotep, and am not a fan of pockets in general. Tried the moves for about 1.5 hours a month or so ago on a rainy day after failing on the crux move of Abu. Enjoyed the moves more than expected. The first move is ass-draggy, but the 2nd and transition into the original is awesomely powerful and body tension dependent -- satisfying to climb.
Beautiful snow the night before peaked our interest in roofs (although the snow melted and lots was probably climbable). Another beautiful day under this cave. Lisa with a quick send of Ruth's roof, left me to this beast. Had a semi-punt on the iron cross move, then couldn't make it back there. The 1st move was low percentage until by accident my right foot pressed an edge underneath. Once I realized this right foot beta the 1st move became WAY easier and gave me hope. I still had no real expectations of sending on the last hour of the trip, but rested for one last go (had to leave at 6p) and somehow scraped my way to the end. Almost dropped the exit after the iron cross.
Feels similar but maybe one notch easier than the Ark, more overall power but less fingery. 11.1 perhaps? 1 grade harder than original.
This trip was my most productive ever. The stars seemed to have aligned for once, excellent conditions at the New (although still lots of rain/snow but drying quickly) with cool temps for April, healthy skin, healthy fingers, at the right point in my un-regimented training cycle. Good strategy still let me finish up climbs despite several punts. This fall is gonna be LIT.
|
1000
8a
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2020-04-15
Red point
|
Red point |
The Ark
8A
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
What a line. Perfect rock, amazing crimps, clear sit start, amazing progression of moves that increase in difficulty with each move until a definitive, but not too anomalously hard crux, wih one further hard move, then solid mantle topout. Going to jump into my top 10 list at the New. Marley locked her in, had the vision for the solid (and obvious in retrospect) sit-start. Tried this within my first few years out at the New but could not do the crux move. Never even felt close. Was able to nail it within a few tries the same day I finished Rose Water, but had a heartbreaking punt, sticking the crux but not able to match after. Came back in essentially perfect conditions (mid 40s, post-rain) and nailed it 2nd try from the start.
Third ascent? Hodder seems to have sent from 3 relatively easy moves in, wouldn't discredit since he still thought it was a project. I couldn't do the crux move in isolation back several years ago when I was climbing solid 10, although did go relatively quick this year. I think this was more reflective of the stars aligning than the grade, likely lower end 11 but not entry -- say 11.2 or .3.
Worked a bit on the contrivance right variation, close-ish to the crux move but never stuck it despite feeling perfectly warmed up and excellent conditions. Likely solid v12 that way, although again a contrivance. Variation could be the hardest line on the boulder.
|
1000
8a
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2020-04-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Rose Water
7C+
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
2nd? Real good. Never even envisioned this line when working on The Ark (when it was a project). Seems to fit my 5'10'' wingspan just right, maybe a smidge extra height would help but too much and the match on the horizontal will be harder, too little and making the spans is gonna be a mega-difficult (or impossible). 1st day on it was in the 60s and boulder was condensing, 2nd go from start on day 2. Mega-punt on The Ark, but holy shit is it good. Great vision Marley!
|
950
7c+
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2020-04-12
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Dad Bod
8A
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
4th ascent (after Woods, Southward, Whitfield)? A worthy, full-value alternate exit to MOM and don't mind spending days at this boulder. Hard for me, guessing solid, power-endurance V11. V9 entry to the "jug" on MOM followed by 6 or 7 move V9 exit crux. Possibly the hardest moves on slopers I've done to date although similar in difficulty to Hideaway. My 5th day on this this season, 3rd full fledged effort day. Was here about a week before the send when it was low 60s and couldn't do that sloper moves by themselves, the most friction dependent boulder I've experienced yet at the New. Still had a solid punt the go before, matching the lip and running out of beta and juice, thought I may not have enough energy to make it back up there. Surprised I can hold those slopes with feet cutting. Means a lot to me, was uncertain I would ever have the power-endurance to line this one up, opens the door to other similarly difficult lines. Lisa with the encouragement!
|
1000
8a
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2020-04-10
Red point
|
Red point |
High Flow
7B+
Boulder
at
Redbird
Great roof climb. Rock looks chossy but is really quite good. Thanks for all the directions/locations beta Steve!!
|
850
7b+
|
Redbird | Boulder |
2020-04-02
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Straight Out of Wuhan
6C+
Boulder
at
Redbird
Roof is sick.
|
650
6c+
|
Redbird | Boulder |
2020-04-02
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Stay Home
7A+
Boulder
at
Redbird
1st go, but had already climbed "Straight Out of Wuhan" before it. Like the original a bit better.
|
750
7a+
|
Redbird | Boulder |
2020-04-02
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Prone
7B
Boulder
at
Redbird
Solid crimp line. Couldn't do the lock off 1st move with the heel but went quick with the toe. Upper end?
|
800
7b
|
Redbird | Boulder |
2020-04-02
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Cannulation
7B
Boulder
at
Redbird
1st move the same as "Stay Home", match, climb left into "Prone". Low end 7? First go for the variation but I'd done all but the middle moves before by way of the neighboring lines.
|
800
7b
|
Redbird | Boulder |
2020-04-02
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Season's Change, Low Left
7C
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Consolation prize today with still not being able to latch the 1st move on Angel Eye. Punted once after the big move. Feeling strong on power endurance lines still. Few more to pull out before the end of this season? Still need to do the variation from Father Figure start! Original Ascent (before the break) on 2017-10-1: Felt reasonable in reasonable temps, fun 1 mover with a heady but not difficult topout. That block better not cut loose. Felt V9, although lots of tries in horrible conditions.
|
900
7c
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2020-03-22
Red point
|
Red point |
Father Figure
7C+
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Finally built up the power endurance to pull this off, took me more days for the grade than just about anything for a long time, although 10 is fair. 6 hours of dragging the hunk of rock from beneath this line was definitely worth it! Appreciate all the topout work from Marley, makes so many more climbable days. Still have a few more on this wall to lock in!
|
950
7c+
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2020-03-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Minden, Unnamed 05
6C+
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Line over 2 tiered landing up and around to the right of parabola. Name? Lisa flashed the 3 to the left of it!
|
650
6c+
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2020-03-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Big Bitz
7C
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Surprised myself with a 2nd power endurance line in the same day! Love the original Litz roof, the low start movement is neat but so ass-dragging that it becomes a star detractor. End for Big opposed to Little is likely easier for me due to fewer moves and a clutch right heel-toe. 5 Heel-toe cams total?! 3rd ascent maybe?
|
900
7c
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2020-03-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Rollin' Spliffs
7B
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Kinda a 1 mover. Crux move felt hard at the end of a long, productive day.
|
800
7b
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2020-03-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Ali Bubba and the 40 Thieves
8A
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Arguably the MEGA line in the cave. Enjoyable progression of movement, starting with a dyno-esque move to a jug, through the steady, controlled movement of Ali Bubba, to the core-intensive, power driven 40 thieves. Inadvertently have spent more days on this than any other line ever, having hidden out in this roof during many a rainy or snowy day. Did not like 40 thieves til I locked down the toe hook beta a couple days before the send, however that seemed to unlock the entire line as a possibility. Day before the send it condensed like milk, cool temps and a strong wind overnight and decided to gamble a great weather day in the roof. Surprisingly pleasant underneath here on a sunny day. Murdered my left pinky while warming up. After a quick fumble as my 1st attempt from the ground on send day, fired it next go from the start. Didn't think I had the power endurance for a line like this. Not V12 (David and Goliath felt harder, this may be a notch above Spinal). Think this is the 4th? (Southward, Barth and Grupper?).
|
1000
8a
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2020-03-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Send in the Stone
6B+
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
Damn good for the grade, quality knee bar. Lisa is close! (Line with same start to the left of Fourplay).
|
550
6b+
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2020-03-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Fourplay
7B+
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
4 or 5 tries. Spectacular movement, does have some dab factor (though mostly on the plant we didn't rip out). Avallone destroyed this. Probably 1st and 2nd ascent? Even tops out!
|
850
7b+
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2020-03-01
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Ladder
5
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
Pretty good. Lets stop naming things 'Ladder' kthxbye.
|
300
5
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2020-02-16
Flash
|
Flash |
Reservoir Dogs
7C+
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
Fantastic, powerful tension on a slightly overhung face. Got off the undercling rail to the right hand gaston with a high AF right foot on the incut crimp. Scared myself on the topout, ended up riding the seam up and left. Want to take 10 so badly but can't justify it. 7 or 8 goes today, had given it 4 or 5 tries at the very end of the day on my last visit.
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2020-02-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Kamikaze
7C+
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
Way cool jump move. All the moves felt impossible on first effort but unlocked it fully in about 30 minutes. First flapper in years from the jug, but totally worth it! 10.1 perhaps, love the vacation grades. Dreamland looks morpho AF, standing off the ground definitely cannot span the 1st move with the foot on, will have to try it another trip. Can we get a unique name for one of these damn boulders at the Bald?
|
950
7c+
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2020-02-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Kung Fu Grip
6C+
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
Cool sequence through the pinch, then some bullshit awkwardness to make it over the boulder, serious star detractor.
|
650
6c+
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2020-02-16
Flash
|
Flash |
Black Slab Right SDS
6C
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
Awkward 1st move. 2nd go. From the stand is V1ish.
|
600
6c
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2020-02-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Basketball Mantle
6A
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
Great problem, except it barely qualifies as a mantle, more like walking your feet up the hand holds to stand on top, never flip your hands around. Harder than 2.
|
400
6a+
(6a)
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2020-02-16
Flash
|
Flash |
Full Contact
7B+
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
One hard hard move. Took me quite a number of goes, 2nd hardest move of the day. Low low will be a challenge (can't even figure out what the middle start is). All sortsa epoxy up under this fool. Hard move for the grade.
|
850
7b+
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2020-02-16
Red point
|
Red point |
The Bowl (low start) (V10)
7C+
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
Hardest move of the day. Put left foot on a tiny point first, right on the tinier edge on the corner. Surprised myself using the left hand open as a pinch. Blood blister in the process. A quickie to cap a seriously amazing send day at the Bald.
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2020-02-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Ripper
7C
Boulder
at
Redbird
Great one from Sandmann. Had to battle lots of wet at the end, sliming off the left hand jug. Did some major top out work, should be a lot drier in the future. Low end 9? Dorbad will wrap this with a bow on top his next trip out.
|
900
7c
|
Redbird | Boulder |
2020-02-09
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Crystal Meth Man
7C+
Boulder
at
Redbird
What a roof! Huge thanks to Sandmann and Ayala (sp?) for putting in the leg work to find this area, make it accessible, clean the tops and bottoms. DIrect variation to Crystal Man, a semi-contrivance, although after you do one move you're committed to the hard end sequence. Was able to put away quickly though I think that was less reflective on the grade and more so on perfect sun-shining conditions, post-nap psych and good prep. Probably low end 10, but will need some confirmation on this one. Lots of other beauties to develop in the area!
|
950
7c+
|
Redbird | Boulder |
2020-02-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
White Egret
7B+
Boulder
at
Casey Jones Boulders
Figured out beta that completely eliminates the jump. Not sure how this was missed before. Makes it far easier, 1st go from start after sussing the beta. Still a fantastic quality boulder with bomber rock, as long as nobody knocks out the smooth conglomerate piece from the pinch. Tweaked the left knee with the heel toe :-(
|
850
7b+
|
Casey Jones Boulders | Boulder |
2020-02-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Suction
7A+
Boulder
at
Casey Jones Boulders
Argghh kinda a 1 mover, 1st move is much harder. Great rock.
|
750
7a+
|
Casey Jones Boulders | Boulder |
2020-02-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Immaculate Connection
7B
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Boulders
3rd try. Beautiful line. 1 mover the way I did it, but is there a rose move beta option?
|
800
7b
|
Hawk's Nest Boulders | Boulder |
2020-02-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Ya Dig?
7C
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Boulders
1 move tho I nearly botched the top. Probably not v9 although certainly would be a hard move if you're an 8/9 climber.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Hawk's Nest Boulders | Boulder |
2020-02-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Blockade
7B
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Was a tricky move to learn for me. Felt hard for 7.
|
800
7b+
(7b)
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2020-01-22
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Bitter Pill
7C+
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Hardest so far at Foxtown? Crux move that is my anti-style, although really the 3 moves up to/before the lip are all very hard and felt low percentage. Almost punted matching the lip. Feels solid for the grade. 2.5 sessions.
|
950
7c+
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2020-01-22
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Gundercling
6B+
Boulder
at
Casey Jones Boulders
Fucking brilliant. Enjoyable day out with Brian and Nadya. Nadya thinks this could be v3, she could be right.
|
550
6b+
|
Casey Jones Boulders | Boulder |
2020-01-17
Flash
|
Flash |
Elephant in the Room
6C+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Boulders
Among the best of contrived lines. A shame the water was too high, have some classics at Hawks Nest I still need to love upon.
|
650
6c+
|
Hawk's Nest Boulders | Boulder |
2020-01-17
Flash
|
Flash |
First Flight
7B
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
Started matched on hold just left of tree, left hand on the good incut, first move to the good right hand slot then headed left. Think this adds a move. Slight dab after latching the top as my feet swung out, inconsequential -- sue me.
|
800
7b
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2020-01-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Chase the Buffalo
7B+
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
Flashed starting with the original holds, although unsure if this is the original beta, crossing right hand to the arete. Couple tries later did a sit start matched in slot down and right, still felt V7ish from down here. Pretty fun, in fact. Tundra one day when my skin feels tough.
|
850
7b
(7b+)
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2020-01-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Epic Camel Toe
7B
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
Really hard 1st move that took me probably 45 minutes to finally nab. Might be harder than v7. Beautiful face.
|
800
7b
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2020-01-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Splinter
7A+
Boulder
at
Rat's Hole Boulders
Left most line on rats hole boulder. Chris Hill fa about 2 minutes before me.
|
750
7a+
|
Rat's Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2019-12-21
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Summersville Lake, Unnamed 01
6A+
Boulder
at
Summersville Lake
Next line to right of Splinter on Rat's Hole boulder.
|
450
6a+
|
Summersville Lake | Boulder |
2019-12-21
Flash
|
Flash |
Summersville Lake, Unnamed 02
6C+
Boulder
at
Summersville Lake
2nd ascensionist but Chris Hill did it twice before me. Line just left of low arete on Rat's Hole boulder with Splinter. Committing but not terribly difficult topout!
|
650
6c+
|
Summersville Lake | Boulder |
2019-12-21
Red point
|
Red point |
The Bambino
7B+
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Flash game is soooo weak, climbed through the crux and then couldn't figure the move to the jug side-pull at the top out. Another 30ish minutes to send after that. Best line I see at bull pen. Nice beta suss and FA from Sandmann!
|
850
7b+
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-12-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Rubicon
7B
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Awesome feature. Glue is a shame, although keeps the bottom corner of the right rail in place so that I can step up my foot. Might be 6 with this beta.
|
800
7b
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-12-11
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Short Fuse
7B+
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Tall, pretty line, although the consolation prize for Bitter Pill. Think I pulled through on the end simply because I was scared of either the heel popping or my right hand dry firing. Will be back fresh for bitter pill!
|
850
7b+
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-12-11
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Glade Creek, Unnamed 02
6A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Tall face to right of False Litz Roof. Real gud. 2 or 3?
|
450
6a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-12-07
Flash
|
Flash |
Lawless
7C+
Boulder
at
Fayette Station Boulders
A definite nemesis rig finally put to rest. Tried this a handful of tired days over the years and could never figure out a sequence that worked for me. Thought I finally figured out the best beta when working it with Max (again, 2nd day on) ... came to it fresh and scrapped that beta for Max's. Covered the hold around the lip with the carpet bonded foam as it drizzled/rained on and off for hours. Still felt low percentage sticking over the lip. Low in the grade ...
|
950
7c+
|
Fayette Station Boulders | Boulder |
2019-12-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Man on the Moon
7C+
Boulder
at
Cotton Top Boulders
One of the all time best, anywhere. This one means a LOT! Such a proud fa by Spruil without the landing as it is currently, and especially difficult, with every attempt ground up. Crazy weather window, 3 straight days of forecasted rain ... sun came out for 5 hours Sunday afternoon, enough to dry up the block. 3rd day on it, serious projecting each time. Still felt hard even on the send go, does feel like solid 10 with my beta, however I could see 9 if someone is particularly good at jumping. Got scared on the top out, never went up there to chalk it up and didn't rehearse the moves on a rope like the prior to visits. So many classics down, but so so many more to go!
|
950
7c+
|
Cotton Top Boulders | Boulder |
2019-12-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Revenge
7B
Boulder
at
Foxtown
7 seems fair, took a few tries at the end of day 3. Unfortunate permawet left crimp that you jump off of, otherwise would be high quality rock. Fun jump.
|
800
7b
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-11-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Methamorphosis
7B+
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Hard, maybe low end 9? Best of the rock out there, although the undercling makes me nervous. Difficult , powerful, tight movement to establish on the undercling, then big swoops to reel in the top. Damn cool rig.
|
850
7b+
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-11-26
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Backwoods Bastard
7A+
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Quickie. Would have gotten an elusive fa flash if not for the foot exploding and dirty topout. Left crimp could go which would make it harder.
|
750
7a+
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-11-26
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Buvos Kocka
7C+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Upper end of 10 it feels. Sorta a 1 mover but can definitely drop the top. Tried to climb out right instead but too scary! Just barely tall enough it seems, would be extra difficult if you're shorter. This boulder has a lot more to give. Derrick with the quick.
|
950
7c+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2019-11-24
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Gray Sky SDS
7C
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Enjoy the small, subtle crimps with decent feet, a definite rarity at the New (at least on boulders). Along a similar line to Nerds and Charizard. Technically 1st ascent from the sit, although they don't add a whole lot in difficulty. I suspect solid 9 and very specific, if you're not too tall/big and are comfortable on crimps you will feel right at home. Certainly far easier than say, Judah. 3rd try (from start or otherwise) for the original, next go after from the sit, with same start holds as Grey Matter. A little easier/more straight forward than Grey Bush. I think it was just that hot when the FAs were done, cuz so much else of Marley's is stout/ solidly graded.
|
900
7c
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-11-20
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Chance of Rain
7B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Took several goes to figure out my preferred beta, then 4 or 5 quick tries from the start to put her down. Really just the 2nd move, probably hard v8 in line with Love Struck. May be easier for taller folk in contrast to Grey Sky (and Bush?) easier for shorter.
|
850
7b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-11-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Blue Hole, Unnamed 09
6A
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Amazing jugssss. 2 problems to the left of Andromeda.
|
400
6a
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2019-11-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Andromeda
8A
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Fantastic rock and movement. Unusual for the New in that it's not huge moves on relatively small holds. Third day over a few years, took another full effort session to put it away. Originally thought this was a solid 11 but found some clutch beta with an extra 2 finger undercling that changed up the foot sequence and allowed me to clinch the send. Was also going a bit too high in the right hand slot crimp. Still suspect maybe low end 11?
|
1000
8a
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2019-11-15
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Forbidden Fruit
7C+
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
2nd ascensionist I think, but not 2nd ascent. Probably what Original Sin could have been, but nice to have some different line options. Relatively quick, 8 or 9 goes? Low end 10 or hard 9.
|
950
7c+
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2019-11-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Hideaway
7C
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
This line is sooooo good. My new all time favorite sloper problem at the New. Had messed around on it several previous days but never fresh or with decent temps. Still took a few hours to unlock the lip sequence and finished her off 2 goes after that. Klinger's finest? This does NOT get enough love and should be dry all season! Felt hard hard for v9.
|
900
7c
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2019-11-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Gray Bush SDS
7C+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
From same start holds as Gray Matter. I think 2nd ascent? Def not 11, may be 10 but likely hard 9 with speed I did it.
|
950
7c+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-11-09
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Glove Struck
7B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Really, really good. The line you expect to climb when walking up to the boulder. Fanning with the betas. 3rd ascent I believe. Felt the same difficulty as Love Struck
|
850
7b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-11-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Love Muscle
6B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
So good. Part of the mega circuit for moderates on the Meadow. Amazing pinches. This block is so neat how it fell off the top of the cliff line to lie like a book leaning against the wall.
|
550
6b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-10-25
Flash
|
Flash |
Snake Wrangler
7A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Great line, not quite over after sticking the rails on the face ... Roper slipped off the slab and gave me the window! Really a co-fa 1-2 with Roper.
|
750
7a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-10-25
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Love Muscle (right var.)
6C+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Hard 5 or soft 6. Slightly less cool than left variation but still worthy. A shame nothing goes straight up the right arete.
|
650
6c+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-10-25
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Love Struck
7B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
2nd ascensionist, not 2nd ascent tho. Low in the grade? Fired it once I put a big enough tick on the slot. Waiting for a permanent name ...
|
850
7b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-10-24
Red point
|
Red point |
I Love You 3000
7C
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Hardest line (yet?) on the Love boulder. First time I've crimped this hard in 8 months! Fingers are feeling better. Friction set in full force as the sun set, haven't felt stickiness like this in ages. Unexpected!
|
900
7c
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-10-24
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Between Two Ferns
7B+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Middle line, left trend on the Fern boulder. Technical foot sequence at the bottom, end of the day/trip send and fought for every move. Thought I might juice out on the top out. The most wonderful of holds including my new favorite crimp of all time. Probably will settle at V7?
|
850
7b+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2019-10-14
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Where the Green Fern Grows
7A+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Right face line on Fern Carpet boulder. Stunner. Guessing with some tricky beta this may settle down at V5. Single session onslaught by Roper and myself to clean this beauty off while the moss is dry and the toupee lifts right off. The Golden Age of bouldering in the New is far from over.
|
750
7a+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2019-10-14
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Odd Man Out
7B
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Was gonna be called Bizarro, but this is better. Gorgeous face with 'meh' climbing. An oddity at the New.
|
800
7b
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2019-10-14
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Academy Award
7C
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
2nd? Small holds! Felt like harder moves than Gold Globe. Tag team landing with Chill, Ed, Matt. Great crew!
|
900
7c
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2019-10-13
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Mr. Jangles
6B+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Right line starting on flat shelf, right hand to sidepull/pinch, high heel, up to the slopers and ride the rails to the top. Really good rock. Project right next to it looks mega, tho we need to move the landing rock.
|
550
6b+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2019-10-13
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Mr. Floofs
6C+
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
To left of Mr. Jangles. Marred by the funky rock that we can't get to lie flat.
|
650
6c+
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2019-10-13
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Stomping Grounds
6A
Boulder
at
Fallen Kingdom
Worth it.
|
400
6a
|
Fallen Kingdom | Boulder |
2019-10-13
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Dionysus Double Extension
6C+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Extension to 01
|
650
6c+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2019-10-06
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Maui Wowie
6B+
Boulder
at
Power Plant Boulders
2nd ascent after Corpron?! Has the water ever been this low before? Stunning crack feature straight up the middle of a 30ish degree overhung boulder. Marred only a bit by the curse, although the hand holds themselves are comfy. Yum.
|
550
6b+
|
Power Plant Boulders | Boulder |
2019-10-04
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Otter Arete
7B+
Boulder
at
Power Plant Boulders
Snuck it in just before the sun lit it up. Tried some several years ago in the sun and heat. Could even get a downgrade if it was cold and shady, although the water is rarely low enough when temps are good. More to do at powerplant, psych is re-kindled!
|
850
7b+
|
Power Plant Boulders | Boulder |
2019-10-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Siren's Song
7B+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
I thought this was going to be v4ish until I realized the feet are like standing on sticks of butter. Powerful! I suck at crack climbing.
|
850
7b+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2019-10-03
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Siberian
7A+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Gorgeous rock, worthy line in the heat, delicate and scary slap top with some awesome beta. Kinda a co-FA with Roper! It was 90 degrees today.
|
750
7a+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2019-10-03
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Mind Flayer
7B
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
2nd ascensionist, not 2nd ascent. Straight up variation, didn't use any of the holds on Leaping.
|
800
7b
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-10-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Stuck On You
7A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Really liked this link, cool holds. Start on 11 and climb left into Leaping Leprechaun. First go, not a flash since had already done the end of Leaping Leprechaun. Ball of Roper's tape stuck to my shoe during the send.
|
750
7a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-10-02
Red point
|
Red point |
The Hedrick's Experience
6B+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
SOOO HOT, WANT TO TOUCH THE HEINIE.
|
550
6b+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2019-09-29
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
The Hedrick's Experience (right var.)
6B+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Worthy variation. Woulda been a flash except I did the direct already.
|
550
6b+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2019-09-29
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
11
6C+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Brilliant holds.
|
650
6c+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-09-28
Flash
|
Flash |
Red Panda
6B+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Stunner. Lots of potential in this cluster.
|
550
6b+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2019-09-28
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Leaping Leprechaun
7B
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Personal favorite of the wall. Might feel like a 6 if it's cold enough.
|
800
7b
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-09-28
Flash
|
Flash |
Dionysus Double
6A+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Sandmann gets his first NRG fa's!
|
450
6a+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2019-09-27
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Cupid Crack
7A+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Beautiful. Nigh perfect.
|
750
7a+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2019-09-27
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
J.A.L.T.
6A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Just Another Lip Traverse. Same boulder as 100% Beef. Holy shit the jumbles of the Meadow.
|
450
6a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-09-09
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
100% Beef
7A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Tucked just under the road. Unexpectedly fine movement for what could have been a lip traverse.
|
750
7a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-09-06
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
High and Dry
7A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Water's down on the Meadow and it's wholesale FA's. Guess we came up with trite names for this one. Good eye as always, Roper. Couldn't quite do the dyno in the heat today.
|
750
7a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-09-05
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Single Span
7B+
Boulder
at
Gauley Boulders
Brilliant arch feature, funky climbing, could be V7 when it's not 80+ degrees out. The rivers are stackedddddd. Will the Taco return?
|
850
7b+
|
Gauley Boulders | Boulder |
2019-09-03
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Spellbound
7A+
Boulder
at
Low Low Meadow Boulders
Low start to the crack on the right side of the downstream end of the boulder. I think Micah fa'ed this in the stone age (was probably quite a long time ago!) and did not name it, so I did. Harder than it looks!
|
750
7a+
|
Low Low Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2019-08-31
Red point
|
Red point |
World Premiere
7A+
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
Left most line on Golden Globe boulder opposite face. A little bit contrived start but on obvious holds on left most side of the wall. Deeeeep lock. Sweet slopers. Not my name.
|
750
7a+
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2019-08-08
Red point
|
Red point |
Golden Globe Direct
7B+
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
Hot diggity, this line is full value. Amazing, compression-esque moves up the face to a definite exit crux. Fell off the move to the lip 3 or 4 times? Beautiful, quality rock. Can't believe nobody put the effort to finish this off earlier. Probably hard 8 although may feel chill in cool temps if the water is low enough.
|
850
7b+
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2019-08-08
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Best Picture
6C+
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
Just right of the deep water seam on upstream face of Golden Globe boulder. I gave the name, unlikely f.a. V5 or 6?
|
650
6c+
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2019-08-01
Red point
|
Red point |
In the Spotlight
6C+
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
Right most line of upstream face of Gold Globe boulder. I gave the name, possible f.a.? V5 or 6?
|
650
6c+
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2019-08-01
Flash
|
Flash |
Golden Globe
6C+
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
Maybe FA? Brilliant climb. Flowing sequence with friendly holds on a beautiful feature. Spent about 3 hours building up the landing; loving the electric chainsaw. Left/direct variation should go?!
|
650
6c+
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2019-08-01
Flash
|
Flash |
First First
7B
Boulder
at
Big South Fork
Not Nutall, but it'll do! Hard 7?
|
800
7b
|
Big South Fork | Boulder |
2019-06-14
Flash
|
Flash |
First First Right
7B+
Boulder
at
Big South Fork
Right exit (although same end mantle) to First First. Feels incomplete without the low start, although that will add serious pump.
|
850
7b+
|
Big South Fork | Boulder |
2019-06-14
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Precarious
6C+
Boulder
at
Big South Fork
May be chill if the top is cleaned extensively but the 30 foot near featureless slab was downright terrifying. Started matched underclings. Thanks Steve!
|
650
6c+
|
Big South Fork | Boulder |
2019-06-14
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Kibble
7C
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Left arete of the boulder. Felt very insecure with the left foot when standing the right up onto the face of the boulder. Another quality bloc found by Micah. Took a longggg time to settle into the low moves and figure out the last move onto the face but sent in only a couple tries after, amount of effort would suggest 9 but could be an 8. Excellent way to cap the season (although it may continue?!)
|
900
7c
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2019-06-04
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Deep Fried
7C
Boulder
at
Wolf Creek Boulders
The novel: A Klinger vision from the start; clearly MEGA. Had been eyeing this for 3(?) years now, always marred by the chunk of rock lying under the boulder. An epic come-along sess and a month or so of patients. The full package, flowy, friendly compression movement to a shouldery, tension crux with a hairy mantle. Really damn spectacular. Not quite as hard as I imagined, but a good compliment to Loaded Biscuit. Among the best anywhere.
|
900
7c
|
Wolf Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2019-06-03
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Recall
7B+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
FA, although Marley did the traverse through these moves, topout is not hard but full value. I'm in love with the brown patina. Need to get back to try the left arete; bounty worth crimp line? Felt 8/9 but will sandbag until a consensus upgrade.
|
850
7b+
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-30
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Death Rattle
7C
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Fuck this thing is full value. A massive boulder blessed with a sloped landing to follow it's steepness although still with a bit of spice through the crux. Excellent progression with a flowing sequence up to the crux, powerful and tensiony crux with a few more intense moves to the finish. I tried very hard for the send, if someone told me it was a 10 I wouldn't have questioned, much less 8; however, it may be the morpho causing this (But Gus crushed?!). Between this, Spiritual Medicine and other stunners, Cox has sure left his mark. Day 2. Lisa and shrooms :-)
|
900
7c
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-22
Red point
|
Red point |
Minden, Unnamed 04
7B+
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Hard AF for me, but I suck at jumping. Never thought I'd get back to this thing with psych and enough pads for the jumbled landing. Nearly a last-go-best-go scenario, no food, jittery from caffeine. Mind trickery moving the tick mark and barely latched. Lisa is the MVP for the weekend, patient with all of the climbing, spotting, encouragement. Project to the left looks burl.
|
850
7b+
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-22
Red point
|
Red point |
White Lies
7B+
Boulder
at
Lower Meadow Boulders
Beautiful line on crimps to the right of White Lightning opened up when I flipped a few rocks. Very particular skill set (crimping on tiny holds) for the crux, although ultimately not -that- hard? Upper end 8 I think. I dislike slash grades.
|
850
7b+
|
Lower Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-21
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Bondye
7A+
Boulder
at
Lower Meadow Boulders
Given 6 points in the guide but consensus says harder. Will have to look up the name once I get my guide back! Klinger still remembered his beta after how many years??
|
750
7b+
(7a+)
|
Lower Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Whirlygig
7B+
Boulder
at
Lower Meadow Boulders
Probably 25+ attempts on the 1st move over two sessions, stuck it twice, one punt and one send. Tough move for me but really like it nonetheless. Need to get better at moves like this!
|
850
7b+
|
Lower Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-18
Red point
|
Red point |
White Lightning Sit
7B
Boulder
at
Lower Meadow Boulders
Real good. Kinda a flash FA although really just added the two sit moves to an established higher start. Starts right hand in the iron crimp with the point on the left of the hold and left hand on flat edge just beside (although Brian Arcement later with the alternate right undercling beta), tried to avoid over-contriving the sit start, felt comfy at this height. What a gorgeous wall, project to the right got me PSYCHED!
|
800
7b
|
Lower Meadow Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-18
FA
Flash
|
FA Flash |
Litz Roof
7B
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Pretty freakin' spectacular. Long, pretty flowy, pumpy. Hard to find lines like this!
|
800
7b
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Diggin' Pits
7B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Had more troubles with the face than the overhung section. Stomped on Takin' Rips.
|
850
7b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Season's Bay
7C+
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Link from spread underclings underneath the old start to Season's change, climbs left up through Old Bay. 2nd after Kerek? I like the cross under move off the left hand sloper/pinch. Certainly harder than Old/New Bay/Bae and Season's Change ... probably low end 10 and Father Figure is hard 10? Will need some consensus one of these days ...
|
950
7c+
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-16
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Full Moon Arete
7B
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Hard in the heat! Tricky. 2x to prove I could do it and the send wasn't just a fluke. Beautiful, accessible boulder.
|
800
7b
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Grey Matter
7B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Very good. Another loaded boulder.
|
850
7b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-03
Red point
|
Red point |
Something Matter
7C
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Would have been great to not fall at the end 2 times. Other than getting your ass off the ground, has quite a bit of flow.
|
900
7c
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-03
Red point
|
Red point |
Glade Creek, Unnamed 01
6C+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
To the right of the shorty, 3 mover V10 that marley but up, upstream end of the boulder field.
|
650
6c+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-03
Flash
|
Flash |
New Bae
7C
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Could be V8 though harder than Grey Matter. Still got pumped AF for the top. Close on the link in from the right! Oh my Father Figure ...
|
900
7c
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2019-04-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Bonnie and Clyde Low (Right)
6C+
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Really quite amazing, beautiful wall when it's dry. 5 or soft 6?
|
650
6c+
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2019-03-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Old Bay
7C
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Several thoughts: 1st straight up ascent I think as it has been seemingly eternally wet? Finished cleaning off the jugs below the lip, has to make it easier by 1/2 a grade compared with out left variation, possibly hard V8, although still was a fight to the end for me and will take 9 for now. Couldn't do the left hand v-shaped-crimp with right match, so had to do 2 extra hand movements to match, made it possible for me. Couldn't finish off New Bae, which may come back to haunt me. Marley has some legit vision, seeing the lines between the lines. Ahhh to be back at the New after 2 months of horrid conditions!
|
900
7c
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2019-03-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Bump in the Night
6B+
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Tricky
|
550
6b+
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-03-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Bullet Proof Low
6C+
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Shorty but fun. I think this is the name? Start on the triangle edge, good feet, jump up right to sloper.
|
650
6c+
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-03-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Large Bore
7B+
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Damn. Best freestanding bloc in KY with this and the swoop? Progressively harder moves on techy arete, quality stone. Starts crouched with right hand on thin right facing iron side-pull crimp, left around corner of arete.
|
850
7b+
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-03-10
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Confabulation
7B+
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Contrivance in the big Nursing Home roof between "In Heat" and "Defib". Start with right hand in good slot jug (on left side of low feature, not all the way in the big slot far right). Left hand to 3 finger slot with point on left side of hold, right hand just out from this, swing your feet, right hand cross over move again to thin crimp, match, couple more moves to obvious point straight out from the start. Does top out!
|
850
7b+
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-03-10
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Welcome to the Jumble
6C+
Boulder
at
Roy, New Mexico
David with the flash!!
|
650
6c+
|
Roy, New Mexico | Boulder |
2019-02-28
Red point
|
Red point |
The Slug
7B+
Boulder
at
Roy, New Mexico
I guess people use the right heel to start this problem. 2x as the last problem of the trip.
Goddamn punt on Channel Incision, will have to come back for revenge!
|
850
7b+
|
Roy, New Mexico | Boulder |
2019-02-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Best of Friends
7B+
Boulder
at
Roy, New Mexico
Beautiful boulder! Had to try hard in the direct sun, thought I might split some tips.
|
850
7b+
|
Roy, New Mexico | Boulder |
2019-02-28
Flash
|
Flash |
No Tiempo Moss
8A
Boulder
at
Roy, New Mexico
Really quite wonderful, friendly crimps. Presumably a hard 10, which would settle Carpet Bombers at v9 and keep the grades rolling stout in Roy. Making me work for it! Dan sooooooo close!
|
1000
7c+
(8a)
|
Roy, New Mexico | Boulder |
2019-02-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Mos Neisley
6C+
Boulder
at
Roy, New Mexico
Felt hard, and amazing.
|
650
6c+
|
Roy, New Mexico | Boulder |
2019-02-27
Flash
|
Flash |
Spanish Caravan
7C
Boulder
at
Roy, New Mexico
Best movement with the shittiest rock of the trip. Outside of the jumbles, there really is quite a bit of choss. Dan and I with the 1-2
|
900
7c
|
Roy, New Mexico | Boulder |
2019-02-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Ergonomicon
7B
Boulder
at
Roy, New Mexico
2nd go. Eff.
|
800
7b
|
Roy, New Mexico | Boulder |
2019-02-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Try Angular
7A+
Boulder
at
Roy, New Mexico
But it's a stupid lip traverse!
|
750
7a+
|
Roy, New Mexico | Boulder |
2019-02-25
Flash
|
Flash |
Man versus Rock
7B+
Boulder
at
Roy, New Mexico
Fantastic, easier climbing down low straight up ruined by a gross topout.
|
850
7b+
|
Roy, New Mexico | Boulder |
2019-02-25
Red point
|
Red point |
Destroy the Castle
7B
Boulder
at
Roy, New Mexico
Probably my favorite of the day. I suck at climbing sometimes.
|
800
7b
|
Roy, New Mexico | Boulder |
2019-02-25
Red point
|
Red point |
Fun bags Sit
7C
Boulder
at
Roy, New Mexico
V7 from down and right. I did think the low moves were kinda fun in their awkwardness, although still a star detractor. Slopers are both awesome and gross simultaneously. Michelle killing the stand the next day!
|
900
7b
(7c)
|
Roy, New Mexico | Boulder |
2019-02-25
Red point
|
Red point |
Puddle Jumper
7B
Boulder
at
Roy, New Mexico
So good. 2x. @Night.
|
800
7a+
(7b)
|
Roy, New Mexico | Boulder |
2019-02-25
Flash
|
Flash |
Sitar Funk
7B+
Boulder
at
Roy, New Mexico
Horrid 1st move mars this problem which is otherwise filled with neat body position dependent movement. Pushed the toe out farther than expected for the 1st move and took 'er down.
|
850
7b+
|
Roy, New Mexico | Boulder |
2019-02-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Carpet Bombers
7C
Boulder
at
Roy, New Mexico
Got pumped and scared at the top. Acclimation!
|
900
7c
|
Roy, New Mexico | Boulder |
2019-02-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Turd on Herd
7B+
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Next line to the right of Herding Cats, a brutal campus one mover. Lovely rock but the climbing feels incomplete, but can't fathom starting lower without any feet. Needed to be done! Could be harder.
|
850
7b+
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-02-15
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Herding Cats
7C
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Thought this would be way harder! Gorgeous crimps, really might be my favorite crimps of any boulder to date. Ends on the wet, sandy jug above the choss but felt safer than continuing up and left. Need someone to give me a feels on the difficulty!
|
900
7c
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-02-15
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
All Ears
6C+
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Next to Echo project. Climbs better than it looks. 5 or 6?
|
650
6c+
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2019-02-04
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Crampus
7B
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Cool body position move, unfortunate dab factor. Eff the wetness everywhere!
|
800
7b
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2019-02-04
Red point
|
Red point |
So Fetch
6B+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
It's aight. Cool knee bar. Relatively choss rock. Right most line on the boulder. Use the tree roots as the jug for the topout, lets not overly contrive this.
|
550
6b+
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2019-02-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Weight of Sound
7B
Boulder
at
Dogwood Boulders
Eye catcher
|
800
7b
|
Dogwood Boulders | Boulder |
2019-01-27
Flash
|
Flash |
Michelin Man
7B+
Boulder
at
Dogwood Boulders
What the FUCK. Best of the grade I've done that I can remember. Impeccable stone, outrageous aesthetics, beautiful creek and very good moves. A one-go-no-tape production. Up there with Deception, Western Gold, the Shield, etc
|
850
7b+
|
Dogwood Boulders | Boulder |
2019-01-27
Red point
|
Red point |
El Cubano
7B
Boulder
at
Dogwood Boulders
One quite difficult move with a lowball dabby start. Hardest I've worked for 7 points in a long time, giving it the personal upgrade.
|
800
7b+
(7b)
|
Dogwood Boulders | Boulder |
2019-01-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Pray Like a Mantis
7B+
Boulder
at
Zahnd
Maybe ever so slightly harder than Harvest moon, however really quite different boulders and land similarly.
|
850
7b+
|
Zahnd | Boulder |
2019-01-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Mononucleosis
7B+
Boulder
at
Zahnd
Great roof climbing to a god awful lip encounter star detractor. Got to a stance on the face, cuz eff topping out this dirty, curse ridden monster.
|
850
7b+
|
Zahnd | Boulder |
2019-01-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Harvest Moon
7B
Boulder
at
Zahnd
2nd go. Agree this is probably hard 7 range although certainly accepted at 8. Vacation grades! Similar to Castaway I think? Although I did Castaway a million years ago. Wish the sit wasn't a star detractor.
|
800
7b
|
Zahnd | Boulder |
2019-01-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Razor's Edge Sit
7A+
Boulder
at
Zahnd
Left sit at now half broken mini-jug, not the super-sit (that would be Gillete). Really it's a 1 move v6
|
750
7a+
|
Zahnd | Boulder |
2019-01-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Golden Harvest
7C+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
A long epic finally laid to rest. Many random days over the years on this one, almost never fresh. Finally sussed the beta spring 2018 but was too tired to put it down. Pretty quick today, surprise send at the end of the warm up, repeated a few tries later for the camera. Beautiful boulder with unusual climbing, I don't personally like the climbing all that much, probably because it feels so difficult to me! 4/5 of the Chatty area all-time list! 3/4 stars for me.
|
950
7c+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2019-01-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Blackout
7C+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Goddamn, finally. Ended up slapping the sloper to the right of intended hold off the deep right lock, pulling my body up a smidge more then bumping over a few inches to the left. Pretty much just 1.5 really hard moves. Suspect there is a sweet spot in height around 5'10'' to 6', that hold is just out of comfortable reach for me. Finally taking down some Rocktown classics!
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2019-01-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Witness the Hickness
7C+
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Another quality roof line, improbable roof feature that doesn't climb as lowball as it looks. Took similar effort as Turbulence and Nightmare on Hurd street, however the holds are smaller and seem to be my game at the moment, reasonable to start with 10 and see if it settles lower. Hopefully more folks will try it soon! As always at Foxtown, thank you to Kipp!
|
950
7c+
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-01-18
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Turbulence
7C
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Sequency with amazing pinches, very cool holds on surprisingly quality rock, only one detracting choss hold in the middle that I did not use. Dropped off of the big jug 3 or so feet above the long jug rail. Kentucky has some gems tucked along the endless broken cliff line! Thanks Kipp!!
|
900
7c
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-01-15
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Nightmare on Herd Street
7C
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Pretty mega tbh. HUGE crux move at the end of a tiring, compression sequence. One nasty choss hold that stays wet that may make it harder if you grab, otherwise pretty good rock.
|
900
7c
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2019-01-15
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
High Heaven
7A+
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Brilliant. Surprisingly specific sequence to keep it from feeling terrifying. 1.5 hours on a rope to feel confident enough to take it down. Crux up high! Marley with the 1st ground up
|
750
7a+
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2019-01-07
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Squeamish
6C+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Fuck. This is as good as it gets.
|
650
6c+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2019-01-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Riot Right Variation
7C+
Boulder
at
Meadow Top Boulders
Welp, went back and added in an extra 2 moves from the logical, however terrifying start. In my bubble of light during the night session, didn't feel too scary, however one foot slip on the start move and you'll be headed down the cliff. Original start does feel incomplete, although makes sense for the fear factor. Hard 10 from this start? First ascent from this hold I believe. As well, tried Tim Roses' left exit and holy SHIT it is balls hard.
Original comments from 2018-11-27: Funky sequence, weirdly techy. Marley beasted this thing, but I def had to find a variety of trickery to get it done. Started with right hand on best spot of the seam and left scrunched in just beside, seemed legit but saved me a move from Rose's original beta. Sorta two lines, will have to come back for the left (and original) variation!
|
950
7c+
|
Meadow Top Boulders | Boulder |
2018-12-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Blue Hole, Unnamed 08
7A+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Boulder just upstream from Wet Your Whistle, with the brutal curse. Sits in that same range as Inner Demons, probably a 7 but may be in line with 6 compared with others at Blue Hole.
|
750
7a+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-29
Flash
|
Flash |
Bustin' Down The Door
7C
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
2 mover, kinda scrunch. Gonna favor the smaller climber on this one. Scary scary top-out again on this one. Marley pissed on it, goddamn.
|
900
7c
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-29
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
The Brown Cow
7A+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
6. Max found a fun sequence that was likely on par with other options to seal an enjoyable flash, however this thing is a contrived mess of extraneous holds. Last of the moderate classics falls
|
750
7a+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-25
Flash
|
Flash |
Open Gates Low
7C
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Surprisingly cool sequence, nice addition to the already well rounded Holy Boulders offerings
|
900
7c
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Cain and Ankle
7B+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
I wanted a flash and did not get. Amazing holds, definitely a new favorite at the Holies.
|
850
7b+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Big Meech
7B+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
A novelty.
|
850
7b+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Red Sea
7A+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Flow. Flash!
|
750
7a+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-24
Flash
|
Flash |
See No Evil
7C
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
1st go, but had already done the 1st move on Red Sea, so I guess technically not a flash. Prophylactic pointer finger taping ftw.
|
900
7c
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Blue Hole, Unnamed 07
6C+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Cool 2 mover + mantle immediately right of Micah's jump problem.
|
650
6c+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-21
Flash
|
Flash |
Inner Demons
7A+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Faces Dark Passenger, can't imagine this is an FA? Quite good despite having walked by this a number of times without giving it a second thought. Started sitting on the shelf, right hand in slot with good edge, first move cross left hand to best rail. 6/7 ... grades are confusing me, feels a solid grade easier than Wet Your Whistle but WYW felt easier than Royal Blue (and Dark Passenger?) but harder than almost all other 7s, this feels harder than most 6s but easier probably than say, WV Hotpocket. 6 for now ...
|
750
7a+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-21
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Wet Your Whistle
7B
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Really quite terrifying topout, almost ate it. Would be 3+ stars if not for the mega dab boulder, I do like the 1st move regardless. Hard for the grade, 7/8. One last boulder on my list from the og vid!
|
800
7b
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-21
Red point
|
Red point |
David and Goliath, Right Var.
8A
Boulder
at
CSX Boulders
Well, shit. 5-6 days of effort, 2 this year with D&G as the primary goal of the day. Even the send burn felt hard and like I could drop the last couple of moves, especially with a punt going for the right hand "jug" the go before. I like the progression -- tic-tack moves on small holds to a solid crux mid roof to the best hold, a mini rest, then 3 serious tension moves to the lip. My hardest to date (even if the grade doesn't match)? Perfect conditions, well rested, good skin and still a fight! Will be very curious to see the consensus on this, although I suspect upper end 11? Certainly not a 9. Harder than Spinal although near identical number of hand movements. Likely the 2nd ... My 600th logged ascent!
|
1000
8a
|
CSX Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-03
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
The Dotted Line
7A+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Rad pinch. Substation keeps on giving!
|
750
7a+
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-01
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Perforation
6C+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Kinda an FA, added the sit start that adds a few moves into the full line. Starts same holds as The Dotted Line but trends left. Small person friendly!
|
650
6c+
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-01
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Bring It Here
6C+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
1st down on this outrageous boulder. The brown swirl patina is my fav. Odin the MVP (as Cox astutely pointed out) with bringing my shoe from 100 feet down the hill after I dropped it. Good doggie! So much more!
|
650
6c+
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2018-11-01
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Revelry
7C
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Don't think this thing has had any sending love in many years. 3rd ascent perhaps? Felt quite difficult with the beta I figured out, seems that if I had another couple inches I'd have another less ridiculous alternative sequence. Perhaps nigh impossible if you don't have at least 5'7'' reach? Scary scary topout.
|
900
7c
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2018-10-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Spinal Remains
8A
Boulder
at
Barbecue Babies Cave Bouldering
Thought I would never do this thing. Previously suspected this would take the 12 grade since I couldn't do the crux for the 1st 3 sessions on it; 11 solid however. Maybe 5 days total, 3 serious over the last several years. My favorite cave/roof climb to date, the features and friendliness of the rock are next level. Need me some chipotle honey and sit to Ravenous!
|
1000
8a
|
Barbecue Babies Cave Bouldering | Boulder |
2018-10-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Poker Face
7B
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
1 mover, frustrating, but cool one at that. Both this and Revelry are unusual for the New. Hard for the grade? 2nd ascent? Likely v8
|
800
7b+
(7b)
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2018-10-29
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Nerds
7B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Thought this was wayyy harder when it was hot and I couldn't gaston. Ends up as a delightful, delicate piece on crimps. High end, maybe 9?
|
850
7b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2018-10-19
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Playin' Hooky
7C
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Thought I'd never do this thing, figured out shorty beta. Still cool. Spelled wrong? Low end.
|
900
7c
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2018-10-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Aqua Man
7B+
Boulder
at
Cotton Bottom Boulders
Felt like V8 to me, and just as hard as when I tried it in peak form in the spring. Man on the Moon ... :-(
|
850
7b+
|
Cotton Bottom Boulders | Boulder |
2018-10-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Wild Pack of Family Dogs
7A+
Boulder
at
Tahoe - Beavers
I can agree, this is good.
|
750
7a+
|
Tahoe - Beavers | Boulder |
2018-09-28
Flash
|
Flash |
One Eye Willie
7A
Boulder
at
Tahoe - Beavers
Sometimes my suck at bouldering really outdoes itself.
|
700
7b
(7a)
|
Tahoe - Beavers | Boulder |
2018-09-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Cujo
7A
Boulder
at
Tahoe - Beavers
This thing blows, why did I get sucked in.
|
700
7a+
(7a)
|
Tahoe - Beavers | Boulder |
2018-09-28
Red point
|
Red point |
New Race Against Time
7B+
Boulder
at
Tahoe - Beavers
Sweet sequence, fall-in move, left drop knee right smear bump, etc. Glad to find it is in fact harder than v6.
|
850
7b+
|
Tahoe - Beavers | Boulder |
2018-09-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Willie Nilley
6C+
Boulder
at
Tahoe - Beavers
Felt hard AF til I changed shoes and then still hard. Not V5. Also did the V3 to the left of West Nile, dunno the name.
|
650
7b
(6c+)
|
Tahoe - Beavers | Boulder |
2018-09-28
Red point
|
Red point |
The Force
7C
Boulder
at
Camp 4
Cooled off on the entry a couple days before then 4 or 5 goes day 2. I likey. Close on Midnight, if only it wasn't in the upper 80s.
|
900
7c
|
Camp 4 | Boulder |
2018-09-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Zorro
6C
Boulder
at
Yosemite
Fun, big move
|
600
6c
|
Yosemite | Boulder |
2018-09-25
Flash
|
Flash |
The Angler
6A+
Boulder
at
Curry village boulders
It's v5 and the holds are sharp. Disappointed with low end moderates in yosemite.
|
450
6c+
(6a+)
|
Curry village boulders | Boulder |
2018-09-25
Flash
|
Flash |
Bruce Lee
7B+
Boulder
at
Camp 4
Techy. Hard in the heat.
|
850
7b+
|
Camp 4 | Boulder |
2018-09-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Torque Spanner
7B+
Boulder
at
Camp 4
Unique, super fun movement, struggled with the 1st. Dab on the repeat!
|
850
7b+
|
Camp 4 | Boulder |
2018-09-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Bear-Hug Mantel
6B+
Boulder
at
Camp 4
Hung on the jug to warm up hence no flash.
|
550
6b+
|
Camp 4 | Boulder |
2018-09-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Magic Trick
7B+
Boulder
at
Meadow Top Boulders
Took a bit to want to trust the kneebar with the most slippery pants of all time. Glad Zak and Amber were pscyhed on the evening sess!
|
850
7b+
|
Meadow Top Boulders | Boulder |
2018-05-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Artifact Sector, Unnamed 02
6B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Really good couple of boulders here! Project down and right?! Tall left arete on backside of boulder when walking up the hill.
|
550
6b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2018-05-24
Flash
|
Flash |
Artifact
7B
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Didn't want to jump. Hot! V8+ effort on a v7?
|
800
7b+
(7b)
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2018-05-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Artifact Sector, Unnamed 01
7A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Hard. Compression!
|
750
7a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2018-05-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Celebration
7A+
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
6 or 7? Low-ball but with a sketchy feeling v2 topout. Is the season over?
|
750
7a+
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2018-05-01
Flash
|
Flash |
Truth Serum
7B+
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
Legit! Took quite some time to suss out the beta. Sequency, perhaps the most technical problem I've climbed yet at the New, kinda feels like a granite arete in the movement. Beautiful boulder as well. May be low in the grade.
|
850
7b+
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2018-05-01
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Charizard
7C+
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
Crimps! I think soft 10? Very specific. Small finger/small reach friendly tho! Gotta collect em all!
|
950
7c+
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2018-04-30
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Farfetch'd
7B
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
What slab esque climb down the hill from Camel Toe on the way to the Pokemon. Guess it has a name that was forgotten.
|
800
7b
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2018-04-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Squirtle
7B
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
Co FA with Cox. Had been wanting to get on this boulder for a longggggg time
|
800
7b
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2018-04-30
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Something Left
7A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Fun deadpoints on crimps. Original name?
|
750
7a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2018-04-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Something Right
7B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Sit start on Something Fierce and traverse right to a hard right hand dead point. One move wonder as well, move feels easier to me than that on Something Fierce by a good bit, I think this is hard v8?
|
850
7b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2018-04-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Something Fierce
7C
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Total opposite end of style from OSOG, essentially a 1.5 mover with a serious dead point to a small crimp. Did NOT think I was going to do this, quite happy with this one. Bouldering at the New is still quite legit in the 60s!
|
900
7c
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2018-04-27
Red point
|
Red point |
On the Shoulders of Giants
7C+
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
Wow, a dream of 5 years come to fruition. Undoubtedly up there with the best of the New. Delightful, flowy, steadily upward traversing holds across a 50 foot horizontal boulder with a solid exit crux. V7 into V7 with an exit crux making it a hard v9? Can't say I'm used to grading 20 move boulders. Built up the landing quite a bit, although the end is the sketchy part. Really hope more people try this stunner. So many feels! A long name for a long boulder. Single day landing build and projecting onslaught.
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2018-04-26
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Trice
8A+
Boulder
at
Flagstaff Mountain
Perhaps the opposite end of the aesthetics spectrum compared with the Shield, however maybe a point for the history. A silly contrivance that I wanted to climb so badly. 3rd day this trip after destroying my tip on day 2. 6th or 7th day total trying this over many years. Probably very low end of the grade, especially if you can reach the good low right foot for the 1st move and get the heel to stay for the 2nd. Feel that more lines than ever are possible along with a need to keep getting stronger.
|
1050
8a+
|
Flagstaff Mountain | Boulder |
2018-04-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Down Payment
7C
Boulder
at
Chattanooga, TN USA
Really another 4 star line, overshadowed by Osiris only in height and shape, however this is really a more pure line with great movement. An end to my best day yet of bouldering!
|
900
7c
|
Chattanooga, TN USA | Boulder |
2018-03-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Reflections
7C+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Hard af for me, 1st move destroyed my tip, last move my shoulder. And I effed up the video, glad this was only the start to an amazing day!
|
950
7c+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2018-03-12
Red point
|
Red point |
The Shield
8A+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Fuck. Yes. Many thoughts: Feels perfect to be able to nab this in a narrow time window on an insane weather day, leaving 3+ inches of snow in Lexington to arrive at sunshine and upper 40s in Chattanooga. 4th day on it total over mannny years, 2nd day this season . . . 6 or 7 total goes today, warmed up and climbed as efficiently as possible. A mental barrier even if not physically the hardest, nor hard for the grade (quite soft perhaps), but such a stunning line to open the possibility for success on more hard climbs. And the quietest day at LRC, solo style. Amazing.
|
1050
8a+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2018-03-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Osiris
7C+
Boulder
at
Chattanooga, TN USA
Another beauty. 3/5 of the hard ultra classics in the chatty area down, two to go! On you 'til the end, despite videos making it look casual. Boulders at the New make this feel not so scary!
|
950
7c+
|
Chattanooga, TN USA | Boulder |
2018-03-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Canopy
7C
Boulder
at
Chattanooga, TN USA
4 or 5 goes total, consolation prize for a lot of fails this trip, fun tho!
|
900
7c
|
Chattanooga, TN USA | Boulder |
2018-03-03
Red point
|
Red point |
Two Pop (V9) 221
7C
Boulder
at
221
Holy flash blown, what a disaster. Didn't think I would like this so much but thugery feels good. A lot more boulders for me to play on down here!
|
900
7c
|
221 | Boulder |
2018-02-25
Red point
|
Red point |
It's Not My Problem
7C
Boulder
at
Lost Cove, Boone, NC
Looks like I did harder (?) beta after the 1st move? Match on the 1st slot you go to? 2 stars just cuz I like balancing on the foot for the 1st move
|
900
7c
|
Lost Cove, Boone, NC | Boulder |
2018-02-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Lost Cove Cranks
6B+
Boulder
at
Lost Cove, Boone, NC
Fun. Conditions is a goddamn eliminate and friends don't let friends climb eliminates
|
550
6b+
|
Lost Cove, Boone, NC | Boulder |
2018-02-24
Flash
|
Flash |
Patio Arete
6B+
Boulder
at
Lost Cove, Boone, NC
Yum. Eyes to the right
|
550
6b+
|
Lost Cove, Boone, NC | Boulder |
2018-02-24
Flash
|
Flash |
Beasley's face
6C+
Boulder
at
Lost Cove, Boone, NC
Sit start? lol
|
650
6c+
|
Lost Cove, Boone, NC | Boulder |
2018-02-24
Flash
|
Flash |
Matt's Prow
7B+
Boulder
at
Lost Cove
Tried the hardest on this of anything in the trip cuz of some very warm temps. Underwhelming climb
|
850
7b+
|
Lost Cove | Boulder |
2018-02-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Left Start Center 45
7B
Boulder
at
Blowing Rock
Tension. Start holds and all the feet were wet, made this a struggle and felt quite hard for V7.
|
800
7b
|
Blowing Rock | Boulder |
2018-02-23
Red point
|
Red point |
A.H.R.
7B+
Boulder
at
Blowing Rock
Meh. Low in the grade for Boone?
|
850
7b+
|
Blowing Rock | Boulder |
2018-02-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Tendon Sandwich SDS
7B+
Boulder
at
Blowing Rock
Maybe not quite SDS, more crouch start, first move is awkward AF, I did enjoy the last move. Start holds on down all MANK
|
850
7b+
|
Blowing Rock | Boulder |
2018-02-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Maddox Traverse
7B
Boulder
at
Blowing Rock
Climbs better than expected. Good cap to a day with lots of surprises and wet rock.
|
800
7b
|
Blowing Rock | Boulder |
2018-02-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Land of the Lost
7B+
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
3rd trip to put this down? I should get on this boulder when it isn't 70+ degrees outside. Still felt way hard for v7. Ugghhh I suck at jumping
|
850
7b+
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2018-02-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Cirrus
7B
Boulder
at
Teay's Boulders
Pretty boulder
|
800
7b
|
Teay's Boulders | Boulder |
2018-02-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Scudbuster
7A+
Boulder
at
Cotton Top Boulders
Scary, but not too scary after watching Cox and Chill stomp it
|
750
6c+
(7a+)
|
Cotton Top Boulders | Boulder |
2018-02-18
Flash
|
Flash |
Slip 'N Slide
7B
Boulder
at
Karnage Crag Boulders
Fucking terrifying. Entire boulder is covered in death lichen, the fall for the topout could be life ending and the downclimb is scary even with a massive stump wedged between this and the neighboring boulder. Thank goodness I brought a rope! Great movement tho . . .
|
800
7b
|
Karnage Crag Boulders | Boulder |
2018-01-22
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
West Virginia Snow Pocket
7C+
Boulder
at
Teay's Boulders
Arete project to the right of WV Hot Pocket.
Finally off the list! Managed the match using the mono for the left hand once by itself but couldn't pull it off from the start. Ended up using mono for the right. The name is absurd, but fitting? Was certainly a snowy adventure! Hard for the grade? Or just specific . . .
|
950
7c+
|
Teay's Boulders | Boulder |
2018-01-19
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Powerband
7B
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Probably did v8 beta for a v7 problem, didn't want to do the big jump like roper. Fun!
|
800
7b
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2018-01-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Gene Pull
7C+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
2nd ascensionist (tho not 2nd ascent)? Up there in coolest moves in the cave so far. Feels a bit incomplete without the low, although the low may detract some quality. Need to secure access! Marley tearing it up.
|
950
7c+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2018-01-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Dogwood Roof, Unnamed 05
7C
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Low start to the furthest left dyno (?) in Dogwood roof. Will top out, although not necessarily worth it since a rainy day spot. Really like the movement
|
900
7c
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2018-01-18
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Karma Police Sit
7C
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
Best climb of the day, big move is mega-fun. Stretched out climbing into it from the low. Will be back for Reservoir Dogs!
|
900
7c
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2018-01-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Slave Driver
6A+
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
One move wonder. This is the most classic for the grade at the Bald? :-/
|
450
6b+
(6a+)
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2018-01-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Brackish Water
7B+
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
Fun, pumpy
|
850
7b+
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2018-01-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Salt Water
7C
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
Eww. Can't believe I blew it after sticking the 2nd move and had to climb it again. 3 or 4 tries
|
900
7c
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2018-01-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Clearwater
7C+
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
Thought I wasn't gonna send but realized I had to really pull with the right heel. Satisfying! Fresh Water next time?
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2018-01-14
Red point
|
Red point |
The Politician
7B+
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
One star for aesthetics, 0 for the climbing. Awkward af. Stayed on the arete all the way up.
|
850
7b+
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2018-01-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Dogwood Roof, Unnamed 03
6B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Fun, big moves, think I did this the day the roof condensed and forgot to log it
|
550
6b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Dogwood Roof, Unnamed 04
7C
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
1-2 with Marley, tho with different beta. Lugnut?!
|
900
7c
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Blue Hole, Unnamed 06
7B
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Ugh that topout. Right line on side facing the water, boulder b/w Bed of Nails and Rubik's Cube.
|
800
7b
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Blue Hole, Unnamed 04
6B+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Brilliant. Water seams with subtle top out along path down for downstream end of Blue Hole.
|
550
6b+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Blue Hole, Unnamed 05
6B+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Fun
|
550
6b+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Country Club, Unnamed 04
6C+
Boulder
at
Country Club Boulders
Weird. Funky climb on right of moderate filled boulder at downstream end of Country Club (chip shot all the way on the opposite corner of this boulder)
|
650
6c+
|
Country Club Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Country Club, Unnamed 05
7B
Boulder
at
Country Club Boulders
Stretchy Mcstretcherson. Funky as all getout
|
800
7b
|
Country Club Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-28
Red point
|
Red point |
ECT
7C+
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
ECT = Electroconvulsive Therapy. Perhaps the most bizarre climb of this difficulty I've done. Huge thanks to Cox for showing me the crazy beta and getting her (mostly) cleaned up. Major fight through the end. Will have to come back for some more Celebration Boulders!
|
950
7c+
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-19
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Dogwood Roof, Unnamed 02
7A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Sick pogo move to finish, makes what looks like a big move quite casual. Eff the condensation!
|
750
7a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Black Sloper Problem
7C
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
Really damn good. Been wanting the water to be low enough for sooooooo long and finally it matched up with when I was actually there. Lisa with me for the 1-2 on the landing build. Should be climbable if the water is around 7.6' or lower. Same with beauty in the breakdown!
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-17
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Traction Control
7A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
And the first of the Dogwood cave goes down! The greatest climbing/transportation epic of all time. Roper and C2 sticking it out with me!
|
750
7a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-12
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Falling Flat
6C+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Just to right of traction control. Did hang on a couple of the holds to warm up so I guess not a flash. This roof is effin' lit.
|
650
6c+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-12
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Dogwood Roof, Unnamed 01
7A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Left jug/heel match, right slot, cross left up to tiny crimp. Kinda weird, maybe v7?
|
750
7a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-12
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Lip Stick
7C
Boulder
at
CSX Boulders
Perhaps the best mini-roof I've climbed. Mega fun moves. Clutch right toe hook, wanted to campus it so badly but was too pooped out.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
CSX Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Judah
7C+
Boulder
at
CSX Boulders
4th day total. Felt rather easier in 40 degrees compared to 70. Solid v10 nonetheless, D&G is unquestionably V11 and goddamn was I close to sticking the crux from the start. Finger be damned.
|
950
7c+
|
CSX Boulders | Boulder |
2017-12-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Calypso
7A+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Great holds to a funky finish
|
750
7a+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2017-11-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Bubble Wrap
7A+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Eff this boulder. 1 stupid move to a few fun moves. Should dig a foot of dirt out to make this better, can't believe I said it.
|
750
7b+
(7a+)
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2017-11-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Monkey Sector, Unnamed 01
6C+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Next to Knuckledragger. Took me several goes, great problem.
|
650
6c+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2017-11-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Knuckledragger
7B
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Surprisingly cool 1.5 mover (boulder up and to the left of Monkey at southside).
|
800
7b
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2017-11-17
Red point
|
Red point |
The Pelican
7C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Totally different beta than McNeil on the F.A. I certainly could not do his beta, he may be too tall to do mine. Great line! Cleaning up Nutallburg . . .
|
950
7c+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2017-11-15
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
The Tipple
7B+
Boulder
at
CSX Boulders
What a boulder, although can't say I'm a fan of the conglomerate. Been wanting to do this for a longgggg time.
|
850
7b+
|
CSX Boulders | Boulder |
2017-11-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Battle of the Bulge
7B
Boulder
at
Karnage Crag Boulders
|
800
7b
|
Karnage Crag Boulders | Boulder |
2017-11-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Poster Child
7A+
Boulder
at
Karnage Crag Boulders
Welcome to Carnage.
|
750
7a+
|
Karnage Crag Boulders | Boulder |
2017-11-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Flesh Cycle
7C
Boulder
at
Karnage Crag Boulders
Atypical for the dries, such lovely crimps.
|
900
7c
|
Karnage Crag Boulders | Boulder |
2017-11-14
Red point
|
Red point |
F3
7B
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
One mover, big slap up left. Lukas killed Season's Change ded
|
800
7b
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2017-10-25
Red point
|
Red point |
Minden, Unnamed 01
6A
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Dang good easier line, maybe 2nd ascent?
|
400
6a
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2017-10-25
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
Minden, Unnamed 02
7A+
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
Cool line except first move. Maybe fa? Corridor right by Death Rattle.
|
750
7a+
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2017-10-25
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Fleetwood Mac, Unnamed 01
6C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Fun one in the corner.
|
650
6c+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2017-10-24
Red point
|
Red point |
New River Glow
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Shorty with beautiful rock, catches the golden hour light. Starts matched on the rail. Roof projects up the hill gonna be dope! 8/9? Edit: Roof projects are anything but dope :-(
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2017-10-24
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Say That You Love Me
7B
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Damn good climb. Water rose all quick-like. 2x for good measure.
|
800
7b
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2017-10-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Go Your Own Way
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Fun little 2 mover. Maybe v9? Had to crimp pretty hard. What a grand bloc.
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2017-10-24
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Wingman
7A+
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
Unquestionably out of my element, unquestionably superb.
|
750
7a+
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2017-10-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Minden, Unnamed 03
7A+
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
2nd go after slipping on the 1st move. Great flow, some big moves but still girl friendly, another classic in the making.
|
750
7a+
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2017-10-01
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Bonnie and Clyde
6A+
Boulder
at
Needleseye Boulders
V3 I think? Maybe 4. New lines, new faces, the future of the New.
|
450
6a+
|
Needleseye Boulders | Boulder |
2017-10-01
Flash
|
Flash |
Humpty Hump
6B+
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
2nd go, flash stolen by the yellow jacket that landed on my left hand. Dabby but fun.
|
550
6b+
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2017-09-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Original Sin
8A
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
Crimps. And the first of a final batch of unrepeated problems falls. Suspect my beta differed drastically from the 1st ascent . . . suspect closer to low end V11, falling just under Megamite in difficulty and just above Beauty in the Beatdown. Almost fell going to the jug! Perhaps fitting for my 500th documented boulder.
|
1000
8a
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2017-09-28
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Sacred Grounds, Unnamed 01
6C+
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Shorty. Mark Osbourne FA
|
650
6c+
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2017-09-03
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
KY Jealous
7A+
Boulder
at
Foxtown
Thanks for showing the way Kipp! 2nd go . . . still missing that elusive flash FA.
|
750
7a+
|
Foxtown | Boulder |
2017-09-03
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
There for the Taking
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
Been looking for the window of opportunity on this beauty for quite some time . . . and for it to be in August! This boulder has quite a bit more left to give!
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2017-08-06
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Ripe for the Picking
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders
It's there. Cool patina holds at any rate. Straddle the boulder for the start.
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg - Greyhound Boulders | Boulder |
2017-08-06
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Of Things to Come
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Struggle fest in the heat. A bajillion rafts and boaters. Did not anticipate this line, it materialized as I sought any way to get my ass off the ground. Left lines hold some serious hard-stuff potential. Nutallburg may be the best at the New? Carnage? Psych is higher than ever for this upcoming season!
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2017-08-06
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Brunch Life
7C
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
Nearly a 1 move wonder, if not for the unnerving topout. Took 3 total sessions to put down, only stuck the 1st move two times in that. Beautiful line, beautiful setting. Scary solo! Expect this will get some more love with video, a cleaner top and revamped landing.
|
900
7c
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2017-06-07
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Power Puffed Pastry
7C
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
Crazy looking rock, can't say I've seen anything quite like it. Fun climbing, awesome that the more complex sequence ends up being far easier than attempting to brute force out the roof. Low in the grade.
|
900
7c
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2017-06-06
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Spiritual Medicine
7C
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
Spectacular. Big, powerful moves that are all just a little farther and a little harder than you want them to be. Another great addition by Cox!
|
900
7c
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2017-06-06
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Slappy Go Lucky
7B+
Boulder
at
41 Boulders
Lots of different betas but all cool. Nice refrigerator block. Almost lost Cox on his attempt at the repeat!
|
850
7b+
|
41 Boulders | Boulder |
2017-06-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Beauty Mountain Beatdown
7C+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
This line inspired some more pointless musings: 3rd day on this thing, but only 3 goes today in good temps. Felt like a harder v10, feels far easier move to move compared to Megamite, just happens to have the crux moves 10 moves in 15 feet up. Great flow and progression, only marred by some sharpness. Scared myself on the topout! Couldn't seal the deal on anything else today. Gonna have to start giving love to the problems that are my anti-style!
|
950
7c+
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2017-03-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Sleeping With The Fishes
6C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Conflicted Boulders
Mediocre. Good looking, less-so-climbing boulder to left of Conflicted.
|
650
6c+
|
Nuttallburg - Conflicted Boulders | Boulder |
2017-03-08
Red point
|
Red point |
Conflicted
7C
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg - Conflicted Boulders
The best yet of Nutallburg? Mega team effort fixing up the landing, clearing out the sit and sussing her out. Pardo with the clutch beta to unlock the send. Worth the 2 days waiting in the rain!
|
900
7c
|
Nuttallburg - Conflicted Boulders | Boulder |
2017-03-08
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Barrel Aged
7C
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Beautiful orange rock that is both surprisingly featured and surprisingly tricky to figure out. Likely V9 although admittedly took a while to fine tune the beta and went in a couple goes after this was locked in. Definitely multiple alternate beta options, not a clean line by any means which does detract from the overall quality. Nutallburg is freakin' loaded. Thanks to Roper and Klinger for taking me out, as always!
|
900
7c
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2017-02-27
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Tall, Dark and Handsome
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
What the hell. This is pure insanity. Immaculate white rock with subtle crimps up the middle of a 20 foot face with a clean landing and jug for the topout. Up there with the finest of anywhere, much less the New. Gotta thank Roper for taking me up there and for help with cleaning her up. V8 or V9?
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2017-02-27
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
In Series
7B
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Sounds like I we were beaten to this by Goodman, previously "Co-F.A. with Cox. Really quite good movement with some serious adventure climbing up high."
|
800
7b
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2017-02-27
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Night Cap
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
So. Good. Hail Mary end of the day send, and damn was it worth it. Really like the compression style climbing on this one.
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2017-02-26
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Mega Mite
8A
Boulder
at
Cotton Bottom Boulders
This boulder is amazingly complex for such a short distance, crazy how you have to do so many moves that are all more-or-less forced. Serious props to Scurfield for figuring it out. Not a mega-classic by NRG standards but certainly has its place. 3 total days to put it down, punted off the last move twice on day 2 and again once on day 3. Didn't think I was gonna pull it off, been a while since I was this beat up by a boulder. Certainly a step above anything else I've done at the New and deserving of the 11 I suspect. Edit 2023Feb2 -- consensus seems to think this is v10, although I still think it's a height thing. Guess I'll go along with the crowd.
|
1000
7c+
(8a)
|
Cotton Bottom Boulders | Boulder |
2017-02-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Axolotl
7C+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
McNeil with key foot wedge/hand jam beta to make this a reality. Awesome movement, unfortunately marred by a singular sandy right hand crimp. About 3 minutes after the F.A., Taylor wasn't even off the boulder yet.
|
950
7c+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2017-02-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Pace Maker
7B
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Meh
|
800
7b
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2017-02-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Heart Breaker
7B+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Missed the grade on this one. Great climb tho!
|
850
7b
(7b+)
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2017-02-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Resistor
7B+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Barely held it. Another stunner.
|
850
7b+
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2017-02-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Algorithmic
7C+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Absolutely outrageous. King of kings. Redemption after hurting my heel.
|
950
7c+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2017-02-14
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Blue Hole, Unnamed 01
6C+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Dang good crimp line
|
650
6c+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2017-02-14
Flash
|
Flash |
Master Chief
7B
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
That rock tho. Fantastic traverse.
|
800
7b
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2017-02-13
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Coal Hearted
7B+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Not classic NRG but a classic nonetheless
|
850
7b+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2017-02-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Bigley Shortly
6C+
Boulder
at
Nuttallburg Boulders
Awaiting a name. 1 mover.
|
650
6c+
|
Nuttallburg Boulders | Boulder |
2017-02-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Walden
7C+
Boulder
at
Rockcastle
Fun movement, reminiscent of the Law but with a redpoint crux jump to the jug. Thought this was really hard til I came to it fresh. Still difficult but certainly more approachable, maybe even to the range of soft V10 . . . Cleaning the topout = totally worth it
|
950
7c+
|
Rockcastle | Boulder |
2017-02-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Fisher Sauce
7C
Boulder
at
Rockcastle
No eggs in the nest this go around. Climbing is quite lovely. Quick but had to repeat cuz I effed up the camera the 1st time
|
900
7c
|
Rockcastle | Boulder |
2017-01-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Bed of Nails
7B+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Monumental boulder with some burly moves. Gotta say, this is probably the chossiest boulder I've climbed on at the New.
|
850
7b+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2016-12-31
Red point
|
Red point |
Master of Manipulation
7C+
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
A perfect boulder? It really is that good. Has to be harder if your shorter. Projects gotta go!
|
950
7c+
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2016-12-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Country Club, Unnamed 03
6B+
Boulder
at
Country Club Boulders
|
550
6b+
|
Country Club Boulders | Boulder |
2016-12-10
Flash
|
Flash |
Country Club, Unnamed 02
6A+
Boulder
at
Country Club Boulders
Rock is sparkly
|
450
6a+
|
Country Club Boulders | Boulder |
2016-12-10
Flash
|
Flash |
Country Club, Unnamed 01
7B
Boulder
at
Country Club Boulders
Pretty fun, didn't think I'd be able to pull the span. 3rd ascent?
|
800
7b
|
Country Club Boulders | Boulder |
2016-12-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Better than turkey
7B+
Boulder
at
Country Club Boulders
Blew the flash on the last move . . . which is the crux I suppose. The flow
|
850
7b+
|
Country Club Boulders | Boulder |
2016-12-10
Red point
|
Red point |
California Candy Extension
7B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
First go after the original. 7 or 8?
|
850
7b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2016-12-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Don't Feed the Monkey
6C+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
The rail of all rails.
|
650
6c+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2016-12-09
Flash
|
Flash |
Rambling Man
7A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Clean, beautiful, tall.
|
750
7a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2016-12-09
2nd
Flash
|
2nd Flash |
California Candy
7B
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
|
800
7b
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2016-12-09
Flash
|
Flash |
Dark Passenger
7B+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
7/8 or soft 8? Fun progression, 2 boulders with a rest! Beautiful boulder
|
850
7b+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2016-11-16
Flash
|
Flash |
Sky High
4
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Boom. And so Blue Hole begins.
|
200
4
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2016-11-16
Flash
|
Flash |
Entropy
6B+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Holy shit.
|
550
6b+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2016-11-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Arete on X
6A+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Clean arete, fun line!
|
450
6a+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2016-11-16
Flash
|
Flash |
Mantle on Crack
6C+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Blew the flash, crazy transition for the topout.
|
650
6c+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2016-11-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Royal Blue
7B+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Had to dig out the pile of driftwood. So good. Been waiting to do this for a loonnngggg time!
|
850
7b+
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2016-11-16
Red point
|
Red point |
The Payoff
7C+
Boulder
at
Blue Hole Boulders
Flash and repeated again 2 goes later. So freaking good, certainly a King Line. 3rd ascent after 6 years? Hard to believe I'd flash 10, but time will tell. Blue Hole is amazing.
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Blue Hole Boulders | Boulder |
2016-11-16
Flash
|
Flash |
Unnamed V7
7B
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Really good! Love the real mantle.
|
800
7b
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2016-11-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Unnamed V4
6B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
|
550
6b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2016-11-15
Flash
|
Flash |
Unnamed V6
7A+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
|
750
7a+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2016-11-15
Red point
|
Red point |
F.U.P.A.
7B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Meh. 2nd after Dan. Soft?
|
850
7b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2016-11-15
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Badass
6C+
Boulder
at
CSX Boulders
One biggg move
|
650
6c+
|
CSX Boulders | Boulder |
2016-10-23
Flash
|
Flash |
The Raven
7B+
Boulder
at
CSX Boulders
Big, fun moves. Gotta clean up the left trending line!
|
850
7b+
|
CSX Boulders | Boulder |
2016-10-22
Red point
|
Red point |
Pappy Van Winkle
7B
Boulder
at
BMW Boulders
Proud line, might just be the best boulder in Kentucky. Also did a couple easy lines over in Rehab sector that I don't know the name of. 1 point for the fear factor ;-)
|
800
7b
|
BMW Boulders | Boulder |
2016-10-16
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Megatron
7C
Boulder
at
Lilly boulders
Contrivance of sorts but mega-fun
|
900
7c
|
Lilly boulders | Boulder |
2016-10-08
Red point
|
Red point |
Dungeon
7C
Boulder
at
Lilly boulders
Ugh the 1st move. Lisa's drop knee beta atw. Would be a 1 mover if not for the finish. I guess it's fun after nabbing the 1st hold. Maybe 8?
|
900
7c
|
Lilly boulders | Boulder |
2016-10-08
Red point
|
Red point |
Night Stalker
6C+
Boulder
at
Lilly boulders
Hard as shit for v5. Couldn't do Ripper
|
650
6c+
|
Lilly boulders | Boulder |
2016-10-08
Red point
|
Red point |
Power Rangers
7A+
Boulder
at
Lilly boulders
V6 is probably right. Lovely holds. No topout cuz it was dirty as
|
750
7a+
|
Lilly boulders | Boulder |
2016-10-08
Flash
|
Flash |
Powerplant, Unnamed 01
6C+
Boulder
at
Power Plant Boulders
Blunt arete on the main boulder at Powerplant with the tenuous moves up high. Sooo good.
|
650
6c+
|
Power Plant Boulders | Boulder |
2016-09-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Operation Dumbo Drop
7A+
Boulder
at
Power Plant Boulders
Great movement. Hard for V6?
|
750
7a+
|
Power Plant Boulders | Boulder |
2016-09-29
Flash
|
Flash |
The Reach Around
7A+
Boulder
at
Power Plant Boulders
So good. Techy say what? Probably V7
|
750
7a+
|
Power Plant Boulders | Boulder |
2016-09-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Powerplant, Unnamed 02
7A+
Boulder
at
Power Plant Boulders
Did not think I was gonna make the last move. Mega fun. Also did the stand to the problem to the right.
|
750
7a+
|
Power Plant Boulders | Boulder |
2016-09-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Soap Drop
6A+
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
Fun
|
450
6a+
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2016-09-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Encore
7B
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
So good. Fear factor, amazing movement and holds. From the sit. Almost punted twice at the top. Felt like V8 to me.
|
800
7b+
(7b)
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2016-09-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Pizza Slice
7B+
Boulder
at
Summersville Dam Boulders
Goddamn. 3 tries?
|
850
7b+
|
Summersville Dam Boulders | Boulder |
2016-09-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Reciprocal Change
6B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Co FA with Roper and Love. Better than the right line.
|
550
6b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2016-09-27
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Harambe
7B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Left line on the Monkey boulder in Southside Meadow area. Holy shenanigans, this problem is the full package. Brilliant moves, beautiful face. Another Roper stunner. Hope the right line topout goes . . .
|
850
7b+
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2016-09-27
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Pulsus Paradoxus
7B
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
One hard move then a fun climb up the rail. Across from Heart rate arete.
|
800
7b
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2016-09-27
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Heart Rate Arete
6B+
Boulder
at
South Side Boulders
Not a whole lot of good slabs at the New!
|
550
6c+
(6b+)
|
South Side Boulders | Boulder |
2016-09-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Flexorcise
7A+
Boulder
at
Lilly boulders
Flexorcise started on the sloping holds, not using the iron edges.
|
750
7a+
|
Lilly boulders | Boulder |
2016-05-07
Flash
|
Flash |
Johnson City
7C
Boulder
at
Lilly boulders
Sweet rig, I climbed a mega-hard beta version cuz I couldn't conceivably make the huge span for the normal 1st move. Maybe V10 the beta I used? Wish the top wasn't dirty so I coulda topped her out.
|
900
7c
|
Lilly boulders | Boulder |
2016-05-06
Red point
|
Red point |
11:11
7B
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
6/7?
|
800
7b
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2016-04-17
Flash
|
Flash |
Patio Roof
7B+
Boulder
at
Rumbling Bald, NC
Fun holding the swing.
|
850
7b+
|
Rumbling Bald, NC | Boulder |
2016-04-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Gin and Seven
7B
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
Nice sequence but sharppppp
|
800
7b
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2016-04-11
Flash
|
Flash |
Fire Roof
7B
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
Worked hard for the finish mantle, may have cut out extra early and added more difficulty. Kinda awkward at the end.
|
800
7b
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2016-04-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Wilhelm Scream
7B+
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
Lots of thoughts arose from this problem. First off, great vision, not sure I would have noticed this clean line sitting tucked next to the mega- project. Pretty sure there is a low start, right hand on left facing gaston/crimp, left hand on slopey pinch . . . or a low-low start down and left. Both would be hard and perhaps lower the quality of the original. And speaking of projects, the dreamcatcher line looks like it should go and not even be that hard! Need to get a good crew out there one day and have it padded up. In regards to the grade, was able to do Whilhelm 2nd try after trying with a higher right foot, managed to do it 2x back to back. After getting a good spanking on M.O.M., I suspect this is closer to an 8 than a 10. Time will tell. 2nd?
|
850
7b+
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2016-04-11
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Brass Knuckles
7C
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Boulders
Finally got a chance to get on this and black pocket! Been waiting a lonngggg time for the water to happen to be low . . . and in spring no less? Unexpected sequence. Low end 9?
|
900
7c
|
Hawk's Nest Boulders | Boulder |
2016-04-10
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Black Pocket
7C+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Boulders
Woah. A perfect boulder problem? Props to Spruill on another gem. Don't think it quite warrants the v11 grade, soft v10 (or easier?) might be more appropriate. 2nd?
|
950
7c+
|
Hawk's Nest Boulders | Boulder |
2016-04-10
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Appalachian Arithmetic
7B+
Boulder
at
Genocide Boulders
Finally was dry! Fun one. Hard for 8?
|
850
7b+
|
Genocide Boulders | Boulder |
2016-04-03
Red point
|
Red point |
The Gobbler
7B+
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Tis okay. Way more chill with a left foot backstep then the crazy square to the wall beta.
|
850
7b
(7b+)
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2016-04-03
Red point
|
Red point |
Flipping Switches
7C
Boulder
at
Teay's Boulders
Beautiful boulder, got my revenge.
|
900
7c
|
Teay's Boulders | Boulder |
2016-04-02
Red point
|
Red point |
T.K.O.
7C+
Boulder
at
Sunshine Boulders
Rapped off and found the crucial hold. Blew the send the go before I finished her off by whiffing it to the jug. Amazing progression of moves in an outrageous setting. It just might not get better than this.
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Sunshine Boulders | Boulder |
2016-04-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Chesticular Fortitude
7C
Boulder
at
Meadow Top Boulders
Technical, consistently hard with a killer finishing move. Fantastic boulder. Felt damn hard to me, but then again I don't stick to the patina worth a damn.
|
900
7c
|
Meadow Top Boulders | Boulder |
2016-04-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Jack Slap Sit
7B+
Boulder
at
Lilly boulders
Did two variations from the sit, one straight up through the crimps which is probs v7, and one out left, then up with right hand on the big right facing rail which is probably V8. Contrivance either way, both are dabby and nothing special :-(
|
850
7b+
|
Lilly boulders | Boulder |
2016-01-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Slam Dunk
6C
Boulder
at
Lilly boulders
Fatty moves.
|
600
6c
|
Lilly boulders | Boulder |
2016-01-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Young and Unruly
7B+
Boulder
at
Lilly boulders
Wet. Thrutchy crux move for me; neat sequence
|
850
7b+
|
Lilly boulders | Boulder |
2016-01-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Mojo
7C
Boulder
at
Lilly boulders
Quite good, even with the jug in the middle being soaked. Broke ice chunks off of it before drying with chalk. Best I've tried at the Lilly boulders so far.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Lilly boulders | Boulder |
2016-01-28
Red point
|
Red point |
O.P.P
7A+
Boulder
at
Lilly boulders
This would be kitten soft for V7
|
750
7a+
|
Lilly boulders | Boulder |
2016-01-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Enter the Ninja
7C
Boulder
at
Cotton Bottom Boulders
Asterisk for using alternate starting holds. Right hand on left of the two underclings and left hand on a bad gaston just above. Couldn't get off the ground any other way. Low in the grade, high in the fear factor.
|
900
7c
|
Cotton Bottom Boulders | Boulder |
2016-01-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Dial 411
7B
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
Dried out on the flash. A bit heady, great movement!
|
800
7b
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2016-01-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Is it Organic?
7B
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
Ugh, awkward
|
800
7b
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2016-01-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Old Men Can't Jump
7A+
Boulder
at
Meadow Top Boulders
Cool 1 mover!
|
750
7a+
|
Meadow Top Boulders | Boulder |
2015-12-31
Red point
|
Red point |
Gaston LeGume
7C
Boulder
at
Meadow Top Boulders
Questionable end beta, used a tiny crimp in the face instead of jumping all the way to the last jug. A contrivance of contrivances.
|
900
7c
|
Meadow Top Boulders | Boulder |
2015-12-31
Red point
|
Red point |
The MacGuffin
6C+
Boulder
at
Meadow Top Boulders
|
650
6c+
|
Meadow Top Boulders | Boulder |
2015-12-31
Red point
|
Red point |
California Condor
7B+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Boulders
Mind. Blown. Big boulder, big, flowing moves plus a scare factor with limited pads. Takes Hawk's Nest from a good to a great collection of boulders.
|
850
7b+
|
Hawk's Nest Boulders | Boulder |
2015-12-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Gymnastic Fantastic
6A
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Best V2 at the New . . . or ever?
|
400
6a
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2015-12-20
Flash
|
Flash |
Catch and Release
7A+
Boulder
at
Teay's Boulders
Cool campus moves. Might be hard for a v6 climber.
|
750
7a+
|
Teay's Boulders | Boulder |
2015-11-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Leave No Trace
7A+
Boulder
at
Teay's Boulders
|
750
7a+
|
Teay's Boulders | Boulder |
2015-11-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Clear Blue Skies
8A
Boulder
at
Mt. Evans
Redemption. Slow repeat of the individual moves after a 3 year hiatus and then 2 quick tries from the start sealed the deal. Progress! So glad Lisa came out on this snow-venturous day. Epic hike in . . . had to carry the not so small puppy across the talus field.
|
1000
8a
|
Mt. Evans | Boulder |
2015-06-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Jousting at Windmill
7C+
Boulder
at
Poudre Canyon, CO
*Asterisk on this one. Spotter dab on my foot as it was swinging out as I stuck the move to the finish jug. As such, I didn't technically send, but I don't have enough time to care. Would definitely be on the hard end of 9, but it was damn hot and it took me a bit to settle on beta.
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Poudre Canyon, CO | Boulder |
2015-05-30
Red point
|
Red point |
One Ton Ho
7C
Boulder
at
Poudre Canyon
Kinda liked it, but I also didn't use the right heel. What a crazy boulder, just sitting there all by itself.
|
900
7c
|
Poudre Canyon | Boulder |
2015-05-29
Red point
|
Red point |
King Fin
6B+
Boulder
at
Poudre Canyon
Great movement and cool holds, except I climbed it like an eliminate, not using the jug flake out left. Dunno if this is on or not . . .
|
550
6b+
|
Poudre Canyon | Boulder |
2015-05-29
Flash
|
Flash |
Lonestar (aka Stinkbug)
7C+
Boulder
at
Stinkbug
Two in a day! Been a long time since that happened. Seriously tho, everything I've been getting on is out of this world.
|
950
7c+
|
Stinkbug | Boulder |
2015-05-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Get Over It Sit-Start
8A
Boulder
at
Big Elk Meadows
V11. 1st try 2nd day this time around (5th day total at this boulder over 5 years?) The 2nd move is super fun to stick, so glad I could link this together! Only the best. Stand on 5-8-2011 "From the stand. Shoulda done this the 1st trip, 7ish goes this time around. Feels like hard sandstone topouts from TN."
|
1000
8a
|
Big Elk Meadows | Boulder |
2015-05-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Double Trouble
7A+
Boulder
at
Big Elk Meadows
Not particularly sharp despite other "reviews." Some tech.
|
750
7a+
|
Big Elk Meadows | Boulder |
2015-05-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Campus Problem
6C+
Boulder
at
Big Elk Meadows
V6? Baller kneebar. Was a bit damp.
|
650
6c+
|
Big Elk Meadows | Boulder |
2015-05-27
Red point
|
Red point |
The Donut Thief
7C
Boulder
at
Rocky Mountain National Park
POWA. 6am session! Slippery holds. Again, feels a bit incomplete without the sit moves, but they wear me out! I will have to return.
|
900
7c
|
Rocky Mountain National Park | Boulder |
2015-05-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Puffing Stone
6C+
Boulder
at
Poudre Canyon
Felt no easier/harder than Scarface, Scuba Steve and Merlin.
|
650
7a+
(6c+)
|
Poudre Canyon | Boulder |
2015-05-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Merlin
7B
Boulder
at
Poudre Canyon
Disappointing actually. Beautiful climb but it is a legit 1-move wonder. Can't say this would be a good project for anyone.
|
800
7a+
(7b)
|
Poudre Canyon | Boulder |
2015-05-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Scuba Steve
7A+
Boulder
at
Poudre Canyon
I liked it! Still mostly a one mover, although I could see some having troubles with the lockoff before the topout. Used a right toe hook to pull of the ground and do the 1st move to the small crimp out right. On par with Puffing Stone, Merlin, Scarface.
|
750
7a+
|
Poudre Canyon | Boulder |
2015-05-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Scarface
7A+
Boulder
at
Poudre Canyon
Another 1-mover. 2nd-go . . . and a day of no flashes O.o
|
750
7a+
|
Poudre Canyon | Boulder |
2015-05-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Divergence
7C
Boulder
at
Poudre Canyon
Pretty sharp! Used a mega-high right foot for the 1st move. Feels incomplete without the sit, but didn't have time or energy to add in the couple of starting moves.
|
900
7c
|
Poudre Canyon | Boulder |
2015-05-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Veritas Sit-Start
8A
Boulder
at
Veritas
This thing is soooooo good. Amazing moves, and certainly committing being solo. Glad to finally climb something friendly on the skin. What a difference it makes being cold.
|
1000
8a
|
Veritas | Boulder |
2015-05-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Menwax
7A+
Boulder
at
Veritas
I dig. Cool tick-tacky movement. Don't think I'll ever be able to do the 10, much less Vertias Low Left :-(
|
750
7b
(7a+)
|
Veritas | Boulder |
2015-05-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Botslayer
7C+
Boulder
at
Flagstaff Mountain
Ughhhh, so incomplete feeling. Punted off getting right hand established in the arête for SBS and ripped open a tip. Gonna have to go back!
|
950
7c+
|
Flagstaff Mountain | Boulder |
2015-05-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Dopey
6C+
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
Beautiful wall!
|
650
7a+
(6c+)
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2015-05-02
Flash
|
Flash |
Sleestak
7A+
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
|
750
7a+
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2015-05-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Replacement Killers
7C+
Boulder
at
Boulder Canyon
Ridiculous approach in the snow and a personal epic with this boulder. Reworked the moves pretty quickly and tried to flip the switch for the send burn but one crimp got wet for the next hour as the tiny bit of ice/snow I hadn't cleaned off the boulder melted. Final last ditch effort after it dried up sealed the deal! Great problem, only negative is the dab factor.
|
950
7c+
|
Boulder Canyon | Boulder |
2015-04-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Right Eliminator Prow
6B
Boulder
at
Horsetooth Reservoir
Dunno what the offical start is. Stood up into the left hand jug then continued onward. Did straight up eliminator for Elim SDS.
|
500
6b+
(6b)
|
Horsetooth Reservoir | Boulder |
2015-04-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Moon Arête
7C+
Boulder
at
Horsetooth Reservoir
Beautiful boulder, beautiful day as the fog cleared. If only I had time and weather to legit project the low! One day . . .
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Horsetooth Reservoir | Boulder |
2015-04-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Eliminator Sit-Start
8A
Boulder
at
Horsetooth Reservoir
With some different beta shown to me the 1st time at this boulder and my own foot beta, the sit start seemed -way- easier than the classic close in compression nonsense. Just a bit stretchy.
|
1000
7c+
(8a)
|
Horsetooth Reservoir | Boulder |
2015-04-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Animal
7C
Boulder
at
Clear Creek Canyon
Great line! Perfect for my trashed skin. OG beta, although my foot cut on the move to the lip probably would have been a dab before the rock was moved.
|
900
7c
|
Clear Creek Canyon | Boulder |
2015-04-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Maverick
7A
Boulder
at
Clear Creek Canyon
Best V5 in CO? Took a nasty fall on the flash go. This boulder is just that good.
|
700
7a
|
Clear Creek Canyon | Boulder |
2015-04-15
Red point
|
Red point |
41st Street
7B+
Boulder
at
Clear Creek Canyon
As good as Maverick is, this problem is bad. Mega-bad.
|
850
7b
(7b+)
|
Clear Creek Canyon | Boulder |
2015-04-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Resonated
7C
Boulder
at
Eldorado Canyon
Stunning boulder. Great rec from Childers! Pretty funky beta that from my understanding is now possible due to a larger hold making it a (hard?) 8.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Eldorado Canyon | Boulder |
2015-04-13
Red point
|
Red point |
606
7C+
Boulder
at
Eldorado Canyon
Crimp test piece to the max! Blew the flash on the last hard move. Great movement on small, but not too sharp crimps. If only it wasn't so dabby with the one foot.
|
950
7c+
|
Eldorado Canyon | Boulder |
2015-04-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Horan Face
7A+
Boulder
at
Eldorado Canyon
A swell problem . . . hard to find good lines at this grade. 1st go, but had done 606 first. The approach is epic.
|
750
7a+
|
Eldorado Canyon | Boulder |
2015-04-13
Red point
|
Red point |
The Infinite
7C
Boulder
at
Eldorado Canyon
1.5 mover. Soft . . . except for the conglomerate which was way NOT soft. Blood blister be damned! A few goes, glad this stays out of the sun 'til early afternoon!
|
900
7c
|
Eldorado Canyon | Boulder |
2015-04-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Pigdog
7B
Boulder
at
East Draw
V6 accepted grade? 1st go, but had done The Infinite first. Descended in a cloud of grasshoppers.
|
800
7a+
(7b)
|
East Draw | Boulder |
2015-04-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Powaqqatsi
8A
Boulder
at
Boulder Canyon
Great progression of moves and on you 'til the end! Glad Micah got me up here. Used the higher hold path; kinda a bastardization (variation?) of the original line, but this seemed like the path of least resistance. Sun, warmth, speed I did it . . . doubtful of 11 points for this var. Also, no "u" in the name.
|
1000
7c+
(8a)
|
Boulder Canyon | Boulder |
2015-04-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Undercling Traverse
7C
Boulder
at
Flagstaff Mountain
Couldn't help myself, had to do this classic. I really like the movement! A fight at the end matching the last sloper. Certainly felt wayyy easier in 60s vs 80s, even if I'm weaker.
|
900
7c
|
Flagstaff Mountain | Boulder |
2015-04-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Ghost King SDS
7C
Boulder
at
Matthew Winters Park, CO
Soft. Flashed Ghost King from the two small crimps then added the sit moves in a couple tries later! Pretty cool line, big pulls on good holds. Oy on Purity :-/
|
900
7c
|
Matthew Winters Park, CO | Boulder |
2015-04-08
Red point
|
Red point |
Hardboiled
7C+
Boulder
at
Boulder Canyon
I really like this climb, pretty technical. I think each kneebar drops the grade by a point . . . I don't fit in the 2nd kneebar. First double digit in a while. Hope there is more to come!
|
950
7c+
|
Boulder Canyon | Boulder |
2015-04-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Zero G
6C+
Boulder
at
Satellites
Repeat. Rough.
|
650
6c+
|
Satellites | Boulder |
2015-04-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Flesh Fest
7C+
Boulder
at
Satellites
First V9 flash! The variation of course (not sticking to the arete). Although I am dubious of the grade . . . 1 move V9?
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Satellites | Boulder |
2015-04-01
Flash
|
Flash |
Grundel City Boy
7C+
Boulder
at
Satellites
Struggled on this one. May have dabbed my arm hair . . . it was that close. Climbs the best of anything in the Satellites, a shame it's in a hole.
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Satellites | Boulder |
2015-04-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Girlfriend's Backside
7A+
Boulder
at
Satellites
V7 is consistent with the grading of the other boulders in the Satellites. x2
|
750
7a+
|
Satellites | Boulder |
2015-04-01
Flash
|
Flash |
Onyx
7A+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Topped out into Enlightenment.
|
750
7a+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2015-03-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Big Nose Milley
7C
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Shoeless. Think I woulda struggled with shoes. Kinda close on Diaphanous . . . guess I'll be back in, err, 3+ years?
|
900
7c
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2015-03-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Black Mamba
7C+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
I dig it. 3 moves off of one foot and a topout. Goddamn I was greasing off the right hand.
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2015-03-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Mcbain
7B+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
PUMPED. If this is V8 so is Stegasaur and probs bloodline.
|
850
7b+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2015-03-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Dope Fiend Low
7C
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Garggghh. Puntarific. Different at least.
|
900
7c
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2015-03-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Choir Boys
7C
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Hueco to the core. Some of the best movement out there. Hard!
|
900
7c
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2015-03-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Rudy
7B
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Ran outa time for King Cobra. Powa.
|
800
7b
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2015-03-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Denizen
6C+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Only the best of the grade in Hueco . . .
|
650
6c+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2015-03-06
Flash
|
Flash |
Bloodline
7B+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Started to the left on a nice flat, 2 hand edge . . . a couple moves into the water runnel. Loses a point for lack of topout, but damn what a stunner. Best friction in Hueco (at least for the hands) in that 7/8 range for this method.
|
850
7b
(7b+)
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2015-03-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Stegasaur
7B+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
The spine sign. Struggled with this one, polished to the max. Feet first, of course . . . still felt 8ish to me.
|
850
7b+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2015-03-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Dilated Pupils
6B+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Just swell
|
550
6b+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2015-03-04
Flash
|
Flash |
Double Vision
7B
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Balls to the walls. Overgripped every damn hold outa fear. Suntay with the crazy fall onto the Yuca! Probs hard for 7.
|
800
7b
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2015-03-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Name Dropper
6A+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Repeat. Fun.
|
450
6a+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2015-03-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Off The Rails
7C+
Boulder
at
Cowell
Fuck. This thing is absurdly good. Smooth like a baby's bottom. Topout was quite damp.
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Cowell | Boulder |
2014-12-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Center Splooge
7B+
Boulder
at
Cowell
Beautiful boulder. Fun taking some big awkward falls onto the cush landing. Not sure what the traditional beta is for this thing. What Gass figured out was reasonable for my height, tho quite stretched. Probably add a point for each inch your shorter than me and subtract one for anyone over 5'10'' or so. Will have to figure out the name of the thing on the backside of the boulder.
|
850
7b+
|
Cowell | Boulder |
2014-12-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Broken Earth
8A
Boulder
at
Cowell
Props to whoever realized there was a line in the subtleness. Glad John remembered the odd start beta!
|
1000
7c
(8a)
|
Cowell | Boulder |
2014-12-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Tang
7C+
Boulder
at
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Had fun working this one when everything else was wet. Extra Tangy, in fact. Added in the bonus move which takes it from suspect to solid for the grade. Unfortunately the foot for the extra start is flexing and will probably break one day. Once the standard way, once with the extra move.
|
950
7c+
|
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | Boulder |
2014-12-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Buddy
7C+
Boulder
at
Cowell
Perty fun. Fred's roof be all wet and be all hard. HOLY FOGAGEDDON.
|
950
7c+
|
Cowell | Boulder |
2014-12-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Ab Lounge
7C
Boulder
at
Cowell
Spectacular. What a beautiful boulder with quite the committing move to the arete. Could see this warranting more points if you don't go to the arete. Had to go back and get on it again!
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Cowell | Boulder |
2014-12-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Orb Weaver
7B
Boulder
at
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Climbs like an absolute turd. Most beautiful boulder in HCR with the crappiest rock. Took me a good deal of work, 7 points would not be consistent with the effort on other things in the Ranch.
|
800
7b+
(7b)
|
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | Boulder |
2014-12-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Flash Gordon
7C
Boulder
at
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Did it two ways, one with my foot flipped out right on a jug . . . made it feel WAY easy, as the first to moves are not hard. Starting with L foot down on the rail for Anti-Hero is substantially more difficult, warranting 9 points . . . maybe. 2x
|
900
7c
|
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | Boulder |
2014-12-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Glass Bowl
7C+
Boulder
at
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
REDEMPTION. Gotta admit tho, of all the boulders to get to spend more time on, this is certainly a good one. Can't believe my finger can handle the mono! Gotta wonder if I would have done this long ago if I had been using the spray bottle before.
|
950
7c+
|
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | Boulder |
2014-12-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Jeff's Prow
7C
Boulder
at
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Took me by far the longest of any of the boulders this day, but sent just after figuring out shorter person beta! This must be casual for those tall enuf to use the far toe hook.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | Boulder |
2014-12-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Sweet Baby Ray's
7B
Boulder
at
Barbecue Babies Cave Bouldering
That's a NEW one *snort*! Finger lock in a roof to a massive foot cut, swing move. Thanks to Roper for going out with me this nasty weather trip!
|
800
7b
|
Barbecue Babies Cave Bouldering | Boulder |
2014-12-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Momma Direct
7B
Boulder
at
Junkyard Cave Bouldering
Ughh, one of only two problems in this massive cave that seemed worth putting shoes on. Sharp left hand. Oooo gloooo.
|
800
7b
|
Junkyard Cave Bouldering | Boulder |
2014-12-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Meth Lab Genie
7C+
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Woah this thing is awesome, compression in a roof with mad body tension. My favorite line in the Ali Bubba Cave so far. Glad I snagged a send in the evening before the end got wet. 1st go from start on the 2nd day after a serious punt the previous trip. 2nd ascent?
|
950
7c+
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2014-12-04
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Delta River Bleau
7A+
Boulder
at
CSX Left Boulders
Across the river at CSX, problem that jump starts at 8+ feet, high left heel, left hand to the vertical rail, etc. Quite fantastic, got the adrenaline going. Clean, stunning line!
|
750
7a+
|
CSX Left Boulders | Boulder |
2014-11-25
Red point
|
Red point |
Drum Circle
6B+
Boulder
at
CSX Boulders
Left most line on warm-up boulder (1st boulder you usually end up at after coming down the hill in CSX).
|
550
6a+
(6b+)
|
CSX Boulders | Boulder |
2014-11-25
Red point
|
Red point |
Pyramid
6B+
Boulder
at
CSX Boulders
Right most line with wide feet (drop-knees) on warm-up boulder at CSX.
|
550
6c+
(6b+)
|
CSX Boulders | Boulder |
2014-11-25
Red point
|
Red point |
Kokopelli
6C+
Boulder
at
CSX Boulders
Jump to a pinch then lip traverse to the left. Surprisingly good movement. Along the cliff line at CSX on side of river you park on, just down stream from warm-up boulder.
|
650
6c+
|
CSX Boulders | Boulder |
2014-11-25
Flash
|
Flash |
The Lorax
7C+
Boulder
at
CSX Left Boulders
Figured out some new beta at the top using a couple of small but good crimps, lightens it up quite a bit. Probably went from solid V11 to soft 10? Still a clean, beautiful wall, but slightly less cool beta than before. 2x
|
950
7c+
|
CSX Left Boulders | Boulder |
2014-11-25
Red point
|
Red point |
Slopey Seconds
7B
Boulder
at
Coll's Cove
Beautiful line, climbs not as well as it could thanks to the large crimp in the face.
|
800
7b
|
Coll's Cove | Boulder |
2014-11-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Stingray
7C
Boulder
at
Coll's Cove
A stunner, but a touch less than stellar thanks to the 2nd move being both the hardest and most awkward move, with the rest being far easier. Still rad. The grade may be a stretch? Or the friction was just that good.
|
900
7c
|
Coll's Cove | Boulder |
2014-11-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Who's Your Daddy
7A+
Boulder
at
Muscatatuck Park
Hoosier Daddy???? Definitely a top 5 in the Muscatatuck scene. Repeat from long ago, although I never topped it out before.
|
750
7a+
|
Muscatatuck Park | Boulder |
2014-11-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Cloud Nine
7A+
Boulder
at
Salt Fork Lake State Park
This is quite the line, especially give the relative paucity of rock in the area. Pretty sure it requires the jump. Hard for the grade?
|
750
7a+
|
Salt Fork Lake State Park | Boulder |
2014-10-26
Red point
|
Red point |
Masterlock
7C
Boulder
at
Teay's Boulders
Might have been the sketchiest topout of my life, given the height of this boulder. Jumped off left hand in a seam crimp at ~6 feet up right to the sharp crimp to start. Not the best of the New, but still fun! 2 or 3 goes after finally figuring out the beta, but a good bit of working in total.
|
900
7c
|
Teay's Boulders | Boulder |
2014-10-19
Red point
|
Red point |
C.P.J.
6C+
Boulder
at
Teay's Boulders
What a rad little boulder. Lisa was soooooooooooooooooooooo close! Next time!
|
650
6c+
|
Teay's Boulders | Boulder |
2014-10-19
Flash
|
Flash |
West Virginia Hot Pocket
7A+
Boulder
at
Teay's Boulders
Holy shit. This may be the best V6 in the world, I kid you not.
|
750
7a+
|
Teay's Boulders | Boulder |
2014-10-19
Flash
|
Flash |
Clockwork Orange
7A+
Boulder
at
Area 571 - RRG
Hardest I've fought for this grade in a while. Sustained to the max. Really fun, but it doesn't let up 'til you're mantled out.
|
750
7a+
|
Area 571 - RRG | Boulder |
2014-10-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Milk Eyed Mender
7B+
Boulder
at
Area 571 - RRG
Long, physical boulder! A lot of fun to climb and try hard on. Had to fight for this one. A shame the crimp to come out of the roof is so wet . . . ended up not using it at all after ass-planting off of it. Also didn't use the oval heuco at the start for a hand, this may make the start easier. Could be 5 stars if the rock was pristine.
|
850
7b+
|
Area 571 - RRG | Boulder |
2014-10-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Orbitalia
7B
Boulder
at
Area 571 - RRG
Cool feature but ended up using a sharp crimp with right hand high up in the back crack to reach all the way out to the crimp on the face (as opposed to a powerful left shoulder move into the roof right undercling). Everything on this wall feels hard!
|
800
7b
|
Area 571 - RRG | Boulder |
2014-10-05
Red point
|
Red point |
PC-7
6B+
Boulder
at
Area 571 - RRG
BIG move.
|
550
6b+
|
Area 571 - RRG | Boulder |
2014-10-05
Flash
|
Flash |
Mini Skull F@*k
6B+
Boulder
at
Cotton Bottom Boulders
Topped out straight up the right side of the boulder (right most seam down the boulder used for left hand). A real mantle, woot.
|
550
6b+
|
Cotton Bottom Boulders | Boulder |
2014-09-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Circle of Life
6B+
Boulder
at
Meadow Top Boulders
Tall-ish arete at start of the boulders, with some weirdly shaped holds and chicken heads for right foot toe/heel. Really fun, pretty damn good for the grade.
|
550
6c+
(6b+)
|
Meadow Top Boulders | Boulder |
2014-09-20
Flash
|
Flash |
Chesticles
7C
Boulder
at
Meadow Top Boulders
Nice clean line, although that start hold is a bit sketch. 3rd go (2nd from start). Sick flash by D Rush. Edit: Repeated on 4/1/2016 with new beta thanks to Kory, definitely drops it to solid v8.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Meadow Top Boulders | Boulder |
2014-09-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Mechanical Sensei
6C+
Boulder
at
Meadow Top Boulders
Problem on left of big roof with stab into a slot then out and around the left of the roof.
|
650
6c+
|
Meadow Top Boulders | Boulder |
2014-09-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Ivy League
7C+
Boulder
at
Muscatatuck Park
Project that climbs into Spider V4. Started R hand on slightly left facing undercling and L hand on small blocky pinch with a small notch in the bottom. Would be okay to start with L hand on larger flat hold one further out left. Managed to get pretty good conditions once the sun went behind the wall. Crimp was mostly dry. Topped this shit out into a sea of poison ivy and thorns. Hard 10. Dunno if this warrants the 11 grade.
|
950
7c+
|
Muscatatuck Park | Boulder |
2014-09-18
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Mother's Milk
7A+
Boulder
at
Muscatatuck Park
Repeat of many years ago. I use the left hand decent undercling, hop off the ground to a high right hand at ~10 feet, go up to the tiny sidepull crimp and to the top.
|
750
7a+
|
Muscatatuck Park | Boulder |
2014-09-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Red Hot Chili Pepper
7B
Boulder
at
Muscatatuck Park
The phallus start hold broke off. Now enables a (very stretched out) sit start off a flat left hand undercling and a right 2 pad sidepull, first move right hand onto a large flat hold then a desperate move left to the jug. Rest of the problem climbs the same. Harder now cuz of the start. Solid V7+. Previously sent on 3/15/14: Repeat, although the loose block in the start fell out. Changes up the beta a bit. Started matched on the obvious phallic block and later used it for a toe hook which you couldn't do before.
|
800
7b
|
Muscatatuck Park | Boulder |
2014-09-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Historian
6B+
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
Stand start in corridor next to Fireproof Roof (Fern Point), just to the right of the stellar V6ish line before the big overhang. Oh how I love humidity.
|
550
6b+
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2014-09-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Wide Grip
7B+
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
1st line you come to when walking from Fireproof roof (Fern Point) into the corridor. Clean line, climbs a little less than stellar but still fun.
|
850
7b
(7b+)
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2014-09-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Geometric Equation
7B+
Boulder
at
Fern Point Boulders
What an amazing problem! Physical to the max with such unique 3D climbing. Can't say I've ever done anything else remotely like it. Up there with Half Moon Tilt for best in the New. V8 I think. 2x.
|
850
7b+
|
Fern Point Boulders | Boulder |
2014-09-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Red is the New Black
7A+
Boulder
at
CSX Left Boulders
Lowball, dabtastic problem in first cluster of boulders when you cross the river at CSX. Starts hands on arete, foot out right, move R to a 2 finger pocket then slap to a slopey edge . . . underwhelming
|
750
7a+
|
CSX Left Boulders | Boulder |
2014-09-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Wishbone
6A+
Boulder
at
CSX Left Boulders
In first cluster of boulders after crossing the river in CSX. Starts in seam then up left to a couple crimps with last move right to a bucket jug at the lip. Lovely holds.
|
450
6a+
|
CSX Left Boulders | Boulder |
2014-09-13
Red point
|
Red point |
F5
7C+
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
Spectacular. Figured out a way to get to the lip without the huge span, certainly made it easier for me. 9/10
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2014-05-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Silver Bullet
6B+
Boulder
at
Fern Creek Boulders
Fun warm up on the F5 boulder. 2nd go (whoops). Also did the thing between it and the tree, not sure the name.
|
550
6c+
(6b+)
|
Fern Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2014-05-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Prince Ali
7C
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Unusual but cool tension climbing. Can't believe I cut feet on the sharp left hand.
|
900
7c
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2014-05-17
Red point
|
Red point |
The 40 Thieves
7B+
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Core power, all the way. The link up to Ali Bubba is gonna have to get some love one of these rainy days.
|
850
7b+
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2014-05-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Get Lifted
7A+
Boulder
at
Teay's Boulders
Morpho 6, that is one big freakin' move for me. Took 4 or 5 tries to stick. I do not see the holds on Masterlock, gonna have to go beta hunting.
|
750
7a+
|
Teay's Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Morchella Elata
7B
Boulder
at
Teay's Boulders
Really clean line with great movement. If it either wasn't as short or didn't sit in a hole it would be top notch. Might have to give it more than 700, felt like solid V7 to me.
|
800
7b
|
Teay's Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Get Low
6B+
Boulder
at
Teay's Boulders
Cool slopers, funky slab at the end. Fun moves. Lisa will float this next time around. Teay's Landing is a quality area despite it's less than stellar star count on paper.
|
550
6b+
|
Teay's Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Left Egg
6A+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Boulders
Sketchy landing, pretty unique mantel on a problem of this grade, way fun.
|
450
6a+
|
Hawk's Nest Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-19
Flash
|
Flash |
Tribe of Two Sheiks
7B+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Boulders
Appreciate the rec from JD on this one as I overlooked it previously. Started L hand down low on the arete on a pinch, not on the small crimp. Seemed like the most obvious logical starting hold. Scary up top!
|
850
7b+
|
Hawk's Nest Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Egg Direct
6A+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Boulders
Tall and scary. Lisa making it look casual!
|
450
6a+
|
Hawk's Nest Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-19
Flash
|
Flash |
Was That a Boob?
7A+
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Boulders
Soft. May be V5 if you can static the 1st move and keep your feet on. Haven't done a compression line like this in a while. Good enough to do twice!
|
750
7a+
|
Hawk's Nest Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-19
Flash
|
Flash |
Bat Cave Traverse
7B+
Boulder
at
Cotton Bottom Boulders
Great traverse, awesome slopers. Hard for me for the grade probably cuz of the pump. Can't believe I punted last time! Gonna have to get my shit together for Megamite.
|
850
7b+
|
Cotton Bottom Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Watt
7A+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Might not even be V6 if you're tall enough. Had to jack my left foot up under the left start hold and thrutch for the 1st move.
|
750
7a+
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-08
Red point
|
Red point |
Amp Direct
6B+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Hard for 4?
|
550
6b+
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-08
Red point
|
Red point |
Hollywood High-rise
7A+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
WOAH! Spectacular, tall, proud line. Terrifying at the top, the move to the arete is balls out and the topout is hard enough to freak me out. 2nd go. 3 pads like what. Hard for the grade I think.
|
750
7a+
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-08
Red point
|
Red point |
Amp Left
6C+
Boulder
at
Substation Boulders
Pretty fun! Weird pocket.
|
650
6b+
(6c+)
|
Substation Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-08
Flash
|
Flash |
Bubbles
6B+
Boulder
at
Sunshine Boulders
Crazy huecos! Great beach setting. Damn the New rocks my world. Hard for 4.
|
550
6b+
|
Sunshine Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-05
Flash
|
Flash |
The Grunge SDS
7B+
Boulder
at
Fayette Station Boulders
Added a SDS. Start L hand on small iron band slot crimp, right hand gaston on friendly crimp, 1st move up and right to sloper with iron band through it. I think it bumps it to v8/9. Cool deadpoint into the high crimp!
|
850
7b+
|
Fayette Station Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Boxer's Break
7B
Boulder
at
Sunshine Boulders
Great problem, consistent movement with a satisfying move to the jug to finish her off.
|
800
7b
|
Sunshine Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-05
Flash
|
Flash |
Soft Goods
6C+
Boulder
at
Fayette Station Boulders
2nd go.
|
650
6c+
|
Fayette Station Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-05
Red point
|
Red point |
1, 2, Punch
7B
Boulder
at
Sunshine Boulders
Fun jump but really a 1-move-wonder. Really fun move, less satisfying otherwise. Gonna have to get my shit together for TKO.
|
800
7b
|
Sunshine Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-05
Flash
|
Flash |
Way of the Gun Low
7C
Boulder
at
Fayette Station Boulders
Woah this is one of the lowest percentage moves I've done, fortunately it's the 1st move. Stuck it after I took the tape off my pointer finger. Really cool deadpoint! Dunno about Lawless . . .
|
900
7c
|
Fayette Station Boulders | Boulder |
2014-04-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Mad Hatter
7A+
Boulder
at
Interp and Campground Boulders
Should have used the right beta for the flash :-/
|
750
7a+
|
Interp and Campground Boulders | Boulder |
2014-03-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Tiki Torch
7B+
Boulder
at
Interp and Campground Boulders
The turd of the boulder. Did it cuz it was there. Went right to thin slot crimp with good thumb catch, left to rounded crimp under the lip and then up right to crescent crimp about 10 inches under the lip of the boulder.
|
850
7b+
|
Interp and Campground Boulders | Boulder |
2014-03-23
Red point
|
Red point |
White Boy Bob
6B+
Boulder
at
Interp and Campground Boulders
Continued up arete without using iron edges.
|
550
6b+
|
Interp and Campground Boulders | Boulder |
2014-03-23
Flash
|
Flash |
Honky
6C+
Boulder
at
Interp and Campground Boulders
Big last move!
|
650
6c+
|
Interp and Campground Boulders | Boulder |
2014-03-23
Flash
|
Flash |
The Ronski Feint
7B
Boulder
at
Interp and Campground Boulders
Maybe the first truly blind move I've done? Can't lean far enough back to see the hold you're jumping to. Way cool. Holds the 7 grade in my book cuz of the tricksyness.
|
800
7b
|
Interp and Campground Boulders | Boulder |
2014-03-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Mines of Moria
6B+
Boulder
at
Cotton Bottom Boulders
Woah good. If not for the conglomerate and dabby tree this would be out of this world.
|
550
6b+
|
Cotton Bottom Boulders | Boulder |
2014-03-22
Flash
|
Flash |
Gradient
7B
Boulder
at
Cotton Bottom Boulders
Soft 7. Top was a sandy mess. Felt sketchy with the heat and sand and height on the topout.
|
800
7b
|
Cotton Bottom Boulders | Boulder |
2014-03-22
Flash
|
Flash |
Cross Section
6B+
Boulder
at
Cotton Bottom Boulders
|
550
6b+
|
Cotton Bottom Boulders | Boulder |
2014-03-22
Red point
|
Red point |
Fingers Malone
7B+
Boulder
at
Cotton Bottom Boulders
Efffff I blew the flash. This looks cool but really does climb like a turd.
|
850
7b+
|
Cotton Bottom Boulders | Boulder |
2014-03-22
Red point
|
Red point |
Slopers Malone
7A+
Boulder
at
Cotton Bottom Boulders
What a cool lip traverse. Rolled out up to the seam, I guess the original way was to traverse all the way to arete. 5/6 this way.
|
750
7a+
|
Cotton Bottom Boulders | Boulder |
2014-03-22
Flash
|
Flash |
Kundilini
6A+
Boulder
at
Muscatatuck Park
Repeat. Great fun. May have been easier before the polish of limestone set in. Feels like 3 or 4 now.
|
450
6a+
|
Muscatatuck Park | Boulder |
2014-03-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Splash Traverse (Sit)
6C+
Boulder
at
Muscatatuck Park
Repeat. Woooo freestanding. Cool lip traverse. Sit = V5, starting on the lip = V4?
|
650
6c+
|
Muscatatuck Park | Boulder |
2014-03-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Wild Flower
6C+
Boulder
at
Muscatatuck Park
Repeat. Pretty good one! Harder for shorties. Repeated again 9/18/14 and did both left and right variations.
|
650
6c+
|
Muscatatuck Park | Boulder |
2014-03-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Hammerhead
6C+
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
2nd go, tried to topout on the wrong side and my fingers went numb. Whoops. Mega-fun.
|
650
6c+
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2014-03-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Chattanooga plow
7B
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
I flashed something at Horsepens, woah.
|
800
7b
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2014-03-04
Flash
|
Flash |
Cadillac Thrills
7C
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
2nd day. Damn I struggled with this one, couldn't do it the shouldery method, then had troubles finding that left foot on the 2nd day. The top felt fawkward.
|
900
7c
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2014-03-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Slider
7C
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Pretty fantabulous. I have troubles sticking to that sloper ball
|
900
7c
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2014-03-04
Red point
|
Red point |
No Tranquility
7C
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Hrrmm, something doesn't add up on this one, the stand is supposed to be a V6, but a couple easy and 1 hard-ish move into the stand makes it a 9?
|
900
7c
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2014-03-04
Red point
|
Red point |
The flow
7B
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Really fun, struggled with it at the end of the day. Hard 7. Eff Five-O and my hamstring.
|
800
7b
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2014-03-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Great White
7B
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Stellar feature. Might be V6, let's be honest.
|
800
7b
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2014-03-04
Flash
|
Flash |
Waterloo
7B+
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Slimyyy. Just went for that jug all uncontrolled like.
|
850
7b+
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2014-03-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Slitty Titty Traverse
6B+
Boulder
at
Cotton Bottom Boulders
|
550
6c+
(6b+)
|
Cotton Bottom Boulders | Boulder |
2014-02-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Bubba Ho-Tep
7C+
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Really, really fun. Thanks for all the beta from JD!
|
950
7c+
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2014-02-01
Red point
|
Red point |
The Crown
6A+
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Classic.
|
450
6a+
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2013-12-27
Flash
|
Flash |
Squeeze Play
7B
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
One of the trickiest problems I've done in terms of hand sequence/positioning for the topout. Clutch info from Mr. Hill. Seems improbable that it all works out. Fun!
|
800
7b
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2013-12-27
Red point
|
Red point |
High Life
6C+
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Hard for me! Fun line minus the ass-draggin' start.
|
650
6c+
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2013-12-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Law Dogs
7B+
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Hard for me in the sunshine. HP40 friction isn't all it's cracked up to be.
|
850
7b+
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2013-12-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Odd Job
7B+
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Cool first move.
|
850
7b+
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2013-12-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Stepchild
7B
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Really good, love the tallness and unique crossover-gaston/undercling action. 3 tries?
|
800
7b
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2013-12-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Consumption
7B
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
One of the prettiest features in hp40. Dunno if I used good beta or not.
|
800
7b
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2013-12-27
Flash
|
Flash |
Hugs and Kisses
7B+
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Finally figured this out, hit the first crimp R hand on the far left, crossed underneath to the right side of the hold with the L hand and popped quickly to the good sloper. A few tries this time.
|
850
7b+
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2013-12-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Ali Bubba SDS
7C
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Barely made it through the pump to the finish. The jug in the middle is gonna break off one of these days. Sweet kneebar. Will be back for Bubba Hotep!
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2013-12-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Light Rays
7B+
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Fully stretched out on the 1st move, the whole problem should be much easier if you're taller. I did like the topout.
|
850
7b+
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2013-12-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Vámonos Low
7C
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
This only took me 3 quick tries, but I used completely different beta than what has previously been done. Started right hand in sloper/pinch, left in a very shallow 2 finger pocket and crossed up left to slot. Previous beta was to jump crazy like to the good right hand pocket, which certainly seems like V9+. I think it may be a morpho thing, I'm able to scrunch in there.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2013-12-20
Red point
|
Red point |
The Frenchman
7B+
Boulder
at
Fayette Station Boulders
One of the best traverses I've done, great progression. Man the rock at the New is fantastic.
|
850
7b+
|
Fayette Station Boulders | Boulder |
2013-12-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Water Equation
7A+
Boulder
at
Short Creek Boulders
Sooooooo scary, but fun. Kinda a 1-move wonder but such a cool block.
|
750
7a+
|
Short Creek Boulders | Boulder |
2013-12-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Octagon Control
7C+
Boulder
at
Fayette Station Boulders
Struggled with the first move! Such a clean line and the right hand crimp is one of the most perfect I've held onto. Could be a 9.
|
950
7c+
|
Fayette Station Boulders | Boulder |
2013-12-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Bedwetters
7C
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
This boulder is spectacular, such a fantastic progression of moves, can't believe I waited this long to get on it. Didn't realize why nobody tops this out until I'm standing on the jug shelf and felt the looseness. And here I thought everyone were just pansies.
|
900
7c
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2013-12-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Red House Extension
7B
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
The whole damn boulder is contrived, doh. Some fun moves, nice jump for the finish.
|
800
7b+
(7b)
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2013-12-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Shiver Me Timbers Direct
7B+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Pretty cool, walked by it for so many years. 3 tries.
|
850
7b+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2013-12-16
Red point
|
Red point |
The Black - Direct
7C
Boulder
at
Sunshine Boulders
Epitome of a brilliant crimp rig. Still can't flash (soft) V9, so close!! Dabbed on the finish move on 2nd go and resent with conviction on the 3rd. Gotta say these are some really lovely crimps. Didn't exit early, and I think this may be a 4+ star line if it didn't have that arete so close. I suppose it could be an 8, I haven't climbed enuf at the New to know yet.
|
900
7c
|
Sunshine Boulders | Boulder |
2013-11-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Master Blaster
7B
Boulder
at
Sunshine Boulders
Woah almost didn't hold on to the big move. Even the "bad" problems at the New are still fun.
|
800
7b
|
Sunshine Boulders | Boulder |
2013-11-11
Flash
|
Flash |
Sunshine Arete
6C+
Boulder
at
Sunshine Boulders
Beautiful, fun problem. The New is rockin' my world.
|
650
6c+
|
Sunshine Boulders | Boulder |
2013-11-11
Flash
|
Flash |
Scream
7B
Boulder
at
Fayette Station Boulders
Committing move to the jug on a flash go without any info on the line! Way fun big moves. Not sure if it's up to the V7 standard but so fun who cares? Octagon Control next time . . .
|
800
7a+
(7b)
|
Fayette Station Boulders | Boulder |
2013-11-11
Flash
|
Flash |
Way of the Gun
6B+
Boulder
at
Fayette Station Boulders
2nd go, chickened off the topout first time around. Oh man.
|
550
6b+
|
Fayette Station Boulders | Boulder |
2013-11-11
Red point
|
Red point |
The White
7B
Boulder
at
Sunshine Boulders
2nd go, greased off the good right edge at the top on the flash. This is one funky block of rock, can't say I've ever climbed something quite like this before.
|
800
7b
|
Sunshine Boulders | Boulder |
2013-11-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Half Moon Tilt
7B+
Boulder
at
Cotton Top Boulders
What a stunner. Climbing is pretty good too. A stout 8 I think, at least based on the other stuff I've climbed at the New so far!
|
850
7b+
|
Cotton Top Boulders | Boulder |
2013-11-10
Red point
|
Red point |
White Eyebrow
7B
Boulder
at
Hawk's Nest Boulders
3 tries. A couple of big stretched out moves!! Such a cool move for my height up to the over-the-head gaston. Gonna have to go back with some brushes to clean up Brass Knuckles.
|
800
7b
|
Hawk's Nest Boulders | Boulder |
2013-11-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Wild Turkey
7C+
Boulder
at
The Citadel - RRG
Fantastic roof line, the progression through multiple boulders is superb. Felt sooooo sticky in the conditions this weekend, my skin loves the texture of fresh sandstone in the Red. 10.2? 2nd or 3rd ascent I think.
|
950
7c+
|
The Citadel - RRG | Boulder |
2013-11-03
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Crumble in the Jungle
7B+
Boulder
at
The Citadel - RRG
Project to the right of Lapse of Reason. Went down in about an hour, and after effectively sending 3 times as I kept grabbing holds above the crux sequence that were breaking. v8.8? The good crimp you cross back to with your right hand on the edge of the mini roof has questionable integrity; be careful up there! The rest of the holds feel solid.
|
850
7b+
|
The Citadel - RRG | Boulder |
2013-11-03
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Mr. Wimpy Sit
7B+
Boulder
at
Emerald Lake
Bleh
|
850
7b+
|
Emerald Lake | Boulder |
2013-06-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Tommy's Other Arete
7C
Boulder
at
Emerald Lake
I like it! Sorta brute forced it and didn't use any heel with the right foot. Damn was I breathing hard resting on the slab. Nice spice at the top, even if that part isn't difficult.
|
900
7c
|
Emerald Lake | Boulder |
2013-06-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Real Large
7C
Boulder
at
Emerald Lake
Really good one, big moves on big holds. 3 tries, blew the mantle on the 2nd.
|
900
7c
|
Emerald Lake | Boulder |
2013-06-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Arete (AKA Purple Drank)
7B+
Boulder
at
Emerald Lake
Soft, 7/8 I think, tho definitely harder if you're short. Jugs to some uncomfortable holds.
|
850
7b+
|
Emerald Lake | Boulder |
2013-06-15
Flash
|
Flash |
Silverback
7C+
Boulder
at
Mt. Evans
Dunno what's happening to me, I couldn't pull on crimps at all but felt pretty good on the slopers and heel hooks. Someone take my temperature . . . Also, the humidity and evening temps worked well for my skin while I'm pretty sure it felt greasy to everyone else; sometimes I just luck out.
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Mt. Evans | Boulder |
2013-06-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Bulgin' Out
7C
Boulder
at
Veritas
Legit feels like some sorta sandstone rig because of the slopery-esque holds and body positions. Enjoyable. Would be great to send something a bit harder this trip . . .
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Veritas | Boulder |
2013-06-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Turning Point
7B+
Boulder
at
Satellites
Liking the texture of the flatirons over granite in the heat. Fun one, consistent climbing beginning to end.
|
850
7b+
|
Satellites | Boulder |
2013-06-08
Flash
|
Flash |
Face Full of Brian
7B+
Boulder
at
Satellites
Few tries, 2nd from start, heel slipped on the flash! Short and sweet.
|
850
7b+
|
Satellites | Boulder |
2013-06-08
Red point
|
Red point |
Split Screen
7B+
Boulder
at
Far East -- Athens, Ohio
The seam project. Looks cool, reportedly did not climb as well. Ends up it is a big jump from the seam to a sloper on the face and some really wack but cool beta to finish her off. Felt a lot easier to me than Turtles in Time, but it is also a less friction dependent line. Also, please, PLEASE be careful and try and climb this only when it is mostly/totally dry, as the start holds have a tendency to be wet which will cause it to crumble over time.
|
850
7b+
|
Far East -- Athens, Ohio | Boulder |
2013-04-13
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Orlandini Genie
7C
Boulder
at
Orlandini Wall
Hard one, keeping it stout, 9/10 sounds about right. Looks so straight forward but put up quite a fight. Great addition by Quinney! 2x
|
900
7c
|
Orlandini Wall | Boulder |
2013-04-04
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Kings High
7B+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Cleaned this up and worked out the moves on a rope then sent 2nd go from the ground. SCARY. My first that was both highball and harder on the grade scale. Kehl has a good eye.
|
850
7b+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2013-03-31
Red point
|
Red point |
Platypus
7B+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Fun one, I think I brute forced it.
|
850
7b+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2013-03-30
Red point
|
Red point |
Comfortably Numb
6A+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Repeat.
|
450
6a+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2013-03-28
Flash
|
Flash |
Comfortably Numb Arete
7A+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Cool slopey arete. 2x
|
750
7a+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2013-03-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Tabernacle
6C+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Very clean crack. Props to Doug on finding (or refinding) this one. Had to moves some logs behind it, including the death spear that I whacked my knee with.
|
650
6c+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2013-03-28
Flash
|
Flash |
Worms Way
7C+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Hard. Keepin' it sandbagged in So Ill. Probably "just" 9 by Holies standards. Really like the big last move. No topout.
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2013-03-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Darkside
7B
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Short and sweet. Walked by this a million times before finally trying it.
|
800
7b
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2013-03-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Jump for Jesus
7A+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
It's otay. 4 or 5 tries. Who field goal ticked the start hold?
|
750
7a+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2013-03-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Smoke Signals
7C+
Boulder
at
Area 571 - RRG
Really good. Fantastic roof climb tucked aside Private Selection/Tramway, props to C Grosh on the find! Basically did twice back to back except I skated off the soaking wet jug topout. Damn. Felt really physical and hard 1st trip, but much better this time around in pristine temps. Not sure how strong I'm climbing . . . So Ill here we come! Good to see Chris get revenge on it. Everything else is wetttttt.
|
950
7c+
|
Area 571 - RRG | Boulder |
2013-03-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Monopolist
8A
Boulder
at
The Cove
I do not know if this is hard for V11 but it is certainly hard for me. Sustained section of ten or so moves followed by a serious exit crux. Fell on the last move 8+ times over three sessions? There is taller person beta that cuts out a few moves but felt super stretched to me, this might make it easier, not sure. Really fun despite it's lowball start and lack of topout. Possibly 2nd ascent??
|
1000
8a
|
The Cove | Boulder |
2013-03-23
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Chocktaw Sundial
7B+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Powerful and sharp. Started on two underclings as a SDS. Sorta an eliminate cuz you don't use the arete, but doesn't feel contrived when you climb it. I wish I could send V9 at Rocktown *sniff*
|
850
7b+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2013-02-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Grand Theft Auto
7B
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Eww. Climbs like it looks, ass draggy, scrunchy and weird.
|
800
7b
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2013-02-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Paparazzi (Stand)
6C+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Started R on block at your face, left just above on the blocky triangle sized hold, 1st move right to flat gaston, huge lockoff up left to sloper and quick slap to jug right. Felt V7 to me, couldn't get around to the good part of the left hand sloper. Feels incomplete as the stand.
|
650
7b
(6c+)
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2013-02-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Pulling Tubes
7A
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Might be the best on the wall.
|
700
7a+
(7a)
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2013-02-17
Flash
|
Flash |
Pinch Loaf
6C+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
|
650
6c+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2013-02-17
Flash
|
Flash |
Big Bad
7A
Boulder
at
Rocktown
So fun. Aka "Brown Eyed"?
|
700
7a
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2013-02-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Brown Hole
7B+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Right in jug, left to thin slot, then used the heel toe cam out right . . . straight up beta seemed a bit reachy. Fun!
|
850
7b+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2013-02-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Sherman Roof Traverse
7C
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Wasn't sure I was gonna make it, desperate as all hell cuz I was numbing out and drying out. It's fun, but does not deserve 4 stars or whatever the book gives, as, after all, it is a traverse.
|
900
7c
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2013-02-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Dancing Outlaw
6B+
Boulder
at
Far East -- Athens, Ohio
Mucho fun slab. Started down and right, big move left to the crimp rail, etc.
|
550
6b+
|
Far East -- Athens, Ohio | Boulder |
2013-02-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Turtles in Time
7B+
Boulder
at
Far East -- Athens, Ohio
Resistant sloper traverse. Good stuff. Hard 8 I think? Maybe soft 9? Edit 4/7/2013: It broke so I'll have to go back and resend. 4/13/2013 Repeated the line with the broken hold, is a tiny bit harder than before. Still feels desperate to me!
|
850
7b+
|
Far East -- Athens, Ohio | Boulder |
2013-02-10
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Shredder
7A+
Boulder
at
Far East -- Athens, Ohio
Sandy but really cool slopers and mantle. No-hand double-knee bar start like woah.
|
750
7a+
|
Far East -- Athens, Ohio | Boulder |
2013-02-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Unnamed - Outlaw Boulder
7B
Boulder
at
Far East -- Athens, Ohio
V7ish arete/slice deal on the back of the Outlaw boulder. Really good! I can suck hard on topouts.
|
800
7b
|
Far East -- Athens, Ohio | Boulder |
2013-02-10
Red point
|
Red point |
White Trash
6C+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
2nd go.
|
650
6c+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2013-01-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Ghengis Khan
6C+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
I dig.
|
650
6c+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2013-01-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Manute Bol
7A+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
What a weird one. Started sitting. Def v6 for me!
|
750
7a+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2013-01-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Kneed It
7C
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Nifty one. Very unique. Pretty quick. Once you have that right crimp the topout really isn't bad.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2013-01-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Bosley Traverse
7C
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
A fun one! 3 or 4 quick tries. Matched the biggest vertical rail thing right hand on top, left hand underneath. 2x back-to-back.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2013-01-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Ace of Spades
7C
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
One funky climb. Couldn't get my toe hook in the right spot with my ass on the ground so had to elevate myself on my left knee, set the toe hook then reach up to the left starting hold and pull myself off the ground from that position. Was missing a last foot movement to seal the deal. 2x back-to-back for good measure. Low end 9, but very specific. Only a hoody under my ass to keep the mud off me.
|
900
7c
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2013-01-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Blacksmith
7C
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Lotsa fun! Shoulda/coulda flashed if I had eaten more during the day. Whoops. Figured out pulling the heel in to a cam on the start hold after the 1st move saved my shoulder big time.
|
900
7c
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2013-01-19
Red point
|
Red point |
White Man Can't Jump
7B
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Hardcore Eliminate. Fun jump. I used the eliminated stuff to the right for a foot after sticking the lip to top it out, whoops.
|
800
7b
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2013-01-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Blue
7A+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Soft. A little hairy up top.
|
750
7a+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2013-01-05
Flash
|
Flash |
Booney Project
7B+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
I'm guessing I did some sort of bastardization of this problem, but I sorta think this is what the problem should actually be. Started sitting, right hand in good hold on the arete, left on iron crimp edge, got a high left foot and went up left to crimp edge, and crossed to the jugs. Did not touch any of the mumbo jumbo jugs to the right.
|
850
7a+
(7b+)
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2013-01-05
Flash
|
Flash |
Little Bad
7A
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Fun slopers, struggled up it a bit!
|
700
7a
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2013-01-03
Flash
|
Flash |
Slither
7B
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Most dabalicious problem I've ever climbed. Dumb tree.
|
800
7a+
(7b)
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2013-01-03
Red point
|
Red point |
Orb Direct
7C
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Right hand to bad sloper, left up to right of the two slots.
|
900
7c
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2013-01-03
Red point
|
Red point |
Paleozoic
7C
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Soft? Cool sequence, chossy-ish boulder.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-22
Red point
|
Red point |
Mezazoic
7A
Boulder
at
North Mountain
V6. Hollow crimps.
|
700
7a+
(7a)
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-22
Flash
|
Flash |
See Sharp
7A+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Small crimps, but not really that sharp. Last problem of the trip!
|
750
7a+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-22
Flash
|
Flash |
Pumped Full of Semen
7C
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Soft. V8/9 for my height. I liked keeping the tension on the feet through the big moves; kinda a turd problem otherwise.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-22
Red point
|
Red point |
Dark Age
8A
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Enjoyed this one a lot. Should have done the 1st day but had to refine my beta for See Spot Run. Maybe hard v10? A long problem but only 1 or 2 really hard moves.
|
1000
7c+
(8a)
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Loaded With Power
7C
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Amazing boulder. 2nd go, blew the flash on the 2nd knee bar. Punted on the last move of Loaded Direct, probably my biggest climbing mess-up evars.
|
900
7c
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Stinking Jesus
7B+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Really BIG reach for me. Started right hand crimp, left hand sidepull/undercling sloper at about head or chest height.
|
850
7b+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-19
Red point
|
Red point |
CLOSED Roughage CLOSED
7B
Boulder
at
North Mountain
WOW.
|
800
7b
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-17
Red point
|
Red point |
No Wonder
7B
Boulder
at
North Mountain
How much closer can I be to the Wonder Hole.
|
800
7b
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-17
Flash
|
Flash |
Power of Silence
7C+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
I really enjoyed the subtlety of the 2nd move on this one. Slowly figured out the body position and where to stand on the right foot and finally did the 2nd move and sent. Got a nice blood blister on the ring finger tip in the finger lock.
|
950
7c+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Short Order Cook
7A+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
If I had gotten my ass off the ground 1st go I woulda flashed. Ooops.
|
750
7a+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Free Willy
7C+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Don't know why I had so much troubles, flashed to the last move then took a sess and a half to do it.
|
950
7c+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Rogered in the Shower
7C+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Pointy holds. Not terribly exciting.
|
950
7c+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Bloody Flapper
6B+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Man this felt hard.
|
550
6b+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Gloria
7B
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Small crimps, not all that great.
|
800
7b
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Daily Dick Dose
7B
Boulder
at
North Mountain
|
800
7a+
(7b)
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-13
Flash
|
Flash |
Babyface
7B
Boulder
at
North Mountain
What a good one. Hard for V7.
|
800
7b
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Fern Roof
7C
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Non-knee bar beta, stretching way back with the left hand to the jug. Topped out on same exit as Mexican Chicken. Might be 8 with some of those other holds, kinda wanted to do it the classic way.
|
900
7c
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Mexican Chicken
7A+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Hard. Full value top out.
|
750
7a+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Lobster Claw
6C+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
One of the greatest, minus the massive amounts of jizz.
|
650
6c+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-09
Red point
|
Red point |
See Spot Run
7A+
Boulder
at
North Mountain
Punter extraordinaire.
|
750
7a+
|
North Mountain | Boulder |
2012-12-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Blood Gnome
7B+
Boulder
at
Brecksville
By Brecksvilles standards seemed like low end 8ish. Fun dyno at the end. Really friggen' reachy at the start for me.
|
850
7b+
|
Brecksville | Boulder |
2012-11-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Racist Arete
7B
Boulder
at
Brecksville
2nd Go, woulda flashed if I hadn't wimped out on the first move.
|
800
7b
|
Brecksville | Boulder |
2012-11-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Lapse of Reason
7C+
Boulder
at
The Citadel - RRG
Pink Wall Proj. Worked out the moves the previous trip when I was pretty worked, sent in 12 goes this time, falling 11 times on the crux move at the top. Grade is my gut feeling. Two of the holds were pre-emptively glued (which I feel was a reasonable decision) and it's a drop-off, so loses some points there, but great crimp line with obvious start and finish jugs. Pretty straight forward pulling but a little toe-hook action makes the entry a lot more casual. Thanks to C Grosh and D Wise for showing me the line!!
|
950
7c+
|
The Citadel - RRG | Boulder |
2012-11-10
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Iron Claw Sit
7C
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Wowowowow. One of the coolest compression lines EVAR!!! Started left hand 2 finger pocket, right hand in best low dish on right side of arete. Seems like the most logical start. The pockets further down right are grimy as shit. Attempted the "variation" starting matched on the undercling. Holy F*$% power!
Edit 11/4/2012: After having more thoughts about this, although I climbed what I feel is satisfactory for myself, I'd still like to start lower, perhaps between the Variation start and the one I've done.
|
900
7c
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2012-10-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Illuminati
7C
Boulder
at
Rocktown
2nd from the start. Pure crimp power on the face! Close on outcrimping litz . . . maybe next time.
|
900
7c
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2012-10-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Swamp Sauce
7B+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Blew the flash on the last move. 4 goes total, 2 from the start.
|
850
7b+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2012-10-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Tao
7B+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Hard. Improbable. 7/8 in good conditions. 2 stars cuz of how bizarre/unique it is.
|
850
7b
(7b+)
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2012-10-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Bermuda Triangle
7B+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Powerful. Seems about V8 including the vertical arete at the end. The guide description is miserable, says 9 points for staying off the arete but fails to specify which of THREE aretes. 3rd go (2nd from start). Blew the flash!
|
850
7b+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2012-10-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Big Bad Right
7B+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
7/8 with good temps. Pumped at the top!
|
850
7b+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2012-10-06
Flash
|
Flash |
Comet Sit
7B+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
An extra point for having to hold it together from the bottom?
|
850
7b+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2012-10-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Roughin the Rotweiller
7B+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Went over the lip right hand to decent sloper dish, through a right heel, left hand to the iron triangle at the lip, rocked up and back left to the big rail and pulled up and over. Pretty sure this is the correct line. Stuck 1st move on 3rd try and sent. Also, this boulder looks like a turd but the moves are pretty cool/unique.
|
850
7b+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2012-10-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Bionic Rats
7B+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Great line! Felt stretched out on it.
|
850
7b+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2012-10-06
Red point
|
Red point |
8th of Crack
7B+
Boulder
at
Brecksville
Hard 8. One of the more physical boulders I've climbed. A classic for Chippewa Creek. Is always a little slimey, but I guess that just adds to the challenge. 2nd day on it, definitely way drier this time, barely pulled it out. Would be less of a battle with a little more height.
|
850
7b+
|
Brecksville | Boulder |
2012-09-29
Red point
|
Red point |
The Gem Mantle
7B+
Boulder
at
Brecksville
I am not sure what this line actually is graded, or what the name is. V8 seemed appropriate to me, although it is a very technical, specific move off of pretty miserable holds and a sketchy heel. Ballsy going for the lip after flipping the left hand. Gonna have to put in some work on the real Gem next after my finger is finished healing up! Also, unlikely this is V5, I assume that grade applies to the arete-specific variation.
Edit 11/4/2012: I should probably repeat this from the lower, nasty start one of these days.
Edit 11/18/2012: Final conclusion is that this a V5/8. There is much easier beta IF you're tall enough, although that method, bumping left hand all the way to the arete is less cool. ;-) Also, the sit start is really nasty at the moment as the bottom of the boulder is quite manky . . . I have little interest in repeating from here.
|
850
7b+
|
Brecksville | Boulder |
2012-09-29
Red point
|
Red point |
Thoughts on the Run
6B+
Boulder
at
The Citadel - RRG
Woah big move, morphologic! I don't think anyone shorter than me would be able to span that first move. Cool holds!
|
550
6c+
(6b+)
|
The Citadel - RRG | Boulder |
2012-09-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Black Tusk
6C+
Boulder
at
The Citadel - RRG
Decidedly one of the best of the grade I've climbed anywhere. Rad iron pipe features for a pumpy finish!
|
650
6c+
|
The Citadel - RRG | Boulder |
2012-09-23
Flash
|
Flash |
Anal Retentive
7B
Boulder
at
The Citadel - RRG
Soft, 2nd go. Fun little guy! BIG move to the jug.
|
800
7b
|
The Citadel - RRG | Boulder |
2012-09-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Race for the Cure
7C
Boulder
at
The Citadel - RRG
Soft. Barely managed to hang on. Shortly after Rush figured out the clutch beta and f.a.'ed this rig. Funky and good one! Uber-slight dab on a spotter inconsequentially, I will definitely repeat clean next time I'm there.
Edit 11/11/2012: Re-sent yesterday in 10 minutes. It's kinda a traverse and an eliminate BUT has really, really fun, unique movement so I still highly recommend it.
|
900
7c
|
The Citadel - RRG | Boulder |
2012-09-23
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
v6
7A+
Boulder
at
Emerald Lake
Left-most line starting on left hand sloper/sidepull, right hand undercling. On same boulder as other unnamed v5 and V6.
|
750
7a+
|
Emerald Lake | Boulder |
2012-07-22
Flash
|
Flash |
Tommy's Arete
7B
Boulder
at
Chaos Canyon
Soft. Done-zo.
|
800
7b
|
Chaos Canyon | Boulder |
2012-07-22
Flash
|
Flash |
Autobot
6C+
Boulder
at
Chaos Canyon
Me likey.
|
650
6c+
|
Chaos Canyon | Boulder |
2012-07-22
Red point
|
Red point |
Bush Pilot
8A
Boulder
at
Chaos Canyon
Sooooo good. I punted off the top 3 or 4 times in 3ish days of work. Shoulda sent much faster on the last day, but once again, my skin was too dry. 2nd go after using the spray bottle. Felt hard 'til I had enough moisture.
|
1000
8a
|
Chaos Canyon | Boulder |
2012-07-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Potato Chip Sit
7B+
Boulder
at
Chaos Canyon
Ehhh
|
850
7b+
|
Chaos Canyon | Boulder |
2012-07-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Gang Bang
7B+
Boulder
at
Chaos Canyon
Pretty quick, not so bad if you can put your foot in your ass. Great line.
|
850
7b+
|
Chaos Canyon | Boulder |
2012-07-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Taurus
7B
Boulder
at
Chaos Canyon
6/7? 2x
|
800
7a+
(7b)
|
Chaos Canyon | Boulder |
2012-07-19
Flash
|
Flash |
Mikaela
7B
Boulder
at
Chaos Canyon
2nd Go. I liked the 1st move. 2x 6/7ish
|
800
7a+
(7b)
|
Chaos Canyon | Boulder |
2012-07-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Fireball
7C+
Boulder
at
Hallet
9 points for the climb, 1 point for the hike. 1st move would seem to be brutal if you're taller (making it solid 7C+ for those with more height).
|
950
7c+
|
Hallet | Boulder |
2012-07-18
Red point
|
Red point |
The Kind
6C+
Boulder
at
Emerald Lake
2nd Go. Fabulous
|
650
6c+
|
Emerald Lake | Boulder |
2012-07-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Sunspot Left
7B+
Boulder
at
Chaos Canyon
Consolation prize . . . shortly before sending the real deal.
|
850
7b+
|
Chaos Canyon | Boulder |
2012-07-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Sunspot
8A
Boulder
at
Chaos Canyon
Hard 10. Had given up cuz I was splitting a tip, was told to get back on it by Murch, it started to drizzle, temps dropped and humidity rose, and fired it next go from the start. Gotta be one of the best in CO.
|
1000
7c+
(8a)
|
Chaos Canyon | Boulder |
2012-07-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Deep Puddle Dynamics
7C
Boulder
at
Chaos Canyon
Didn't take too many tries . . . shoulda used the crimp in the face earlier. Cooler temps would make this wayyyyy easier. Unique and awesome, I don't care if it's "contrived."
|
900
7c
|
Chaos Canyon | Boulder |
2012-07-13
Red point
|
Red point |
V6
7A+
Boulder
at
Chaos Canyon
|
750
7a+
|
Chaos Canyon | Boulder |
2012-07-13
Flash
|
Flash |
Downtrail Face
7A+
Boulder
at
Mt. Evans
Really great problem! Could be hard if you're short.
|
750
7a+
|
Mt. Evans | Boulder |
2012-07-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Pink Fink
7B
Boulder
at
Mt. Evans
Really liked this one. Managed to keep my feet on the whole time.
|
800
7b
|
Mt. Evans | Boulder |
2012-07-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Tongue in Cheek
7C
Boulder
at
Flagstaff Mountain
2x
|
900
7c
|
Flagstaff Mountain | Boulder |
2012-07-08
Red point
|
Red point |
Mongolian Cosmonaut Sit
7C+
Boulder
at
Flagstaff Mountain
Is technically a "Low Start" and not a SDS as far as I'm aware, tho it has broken which could have changed it. I actually kinda liked it. A nice, cool 75 degrees. I think the 1st move is easier if you're shorter. Stand done on 6-26-2012. "100+ degree day, wtf."
|
950
7c+
|
Flagstaff Mountain | Boulder |
2012-07-06
Red point
|
Red point |
Bierstadt
7C
Boulder
at
Mt. Evans
2 days. Finally did it when the sun went behind some clouds and it cooled off 10 degrees. Lamesauce heat up at 11k feet! Should be a lot easier if you're tall.
|
900
7c
|
Mt. Evans | Boulder |
2012-07-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Seurat
7B+
Boulder
at
Mt. Evans
Thanks to Pietras for the beta! Really cool, just had to learn to trust my feet.
|
850
7b+
|
Mt. Evans | Boulder |
2012-06-29
Red point
|
Red point |
The Dali Sit-Start
7C
Boulder
at
Mt. Evans
Really, really good. Matched on low, left facing gaston.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Mt. Evans | Boulder |
2012-06-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Devil on a Leash
7B
Boulder
at
Giant City State Park
As hard for me as Leashless cuz of the huge moves.
|
800
7b
|
Giant City State Park | Boulder |
2012-06-23
Red point
|
Red point |
Leashless Angel
7C
Boulder
at
Giant City State Park
Hard for me to nail a grade on this one. Cool moves.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Giant City State Park | Boulder |
2012-06-23
Flash
|
Flash |
Vapor lock
8A
Boulder
at
Dayton pocket
Soooo good and SUCH an epic. Who woulda guessed, climbing it during a thunderstorm while it's 75 degrees with the chalk pulling water outa the air wasn't going to happen. Killed it 1st go like it wasn't a thang on my last climbing day around Chatty for the season.
|
1000
8a
|
Dayton pocket | Boulder |
2012-04-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Bass Assassin
7C
Boulder
at
Ferne Clyffe State Park
Entire wall was SOAKED except the necessary holds. Toe/heel cam on the right hand start hold wasn't possible because of dripping rock above the hold. 10 or so quick tries. Short and sweet. Epic mantle on a heel hook with a puddle of water in it.
|
900
7c
|
Ferne Clyffe State Park | Boulder |
2012-03-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Dream Weaver
7C
Boulder
at
The Beach
2nd ascent? Sweet problem! 2 pretty quick days. Honestly think this is soft V10, even by So Ill standards.
|
900
7c+
(7c)
|
The Beach | Boulder |
2012-03-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Con Artist
7B
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Way hard for me. Not a huge fan of this boulder and the tiny little slot crimps. Finally got on this kinda fresh and put it down after having tried it half-assed for years. Is def cool to stick the last crimp.
|
800
7b
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2012-03-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Proud Mary
7C
Boulder
at
The Beach
Soft. Cool crimp line on the beach in So Ill. Great setting, good tension moves on crimps.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
The Beach | Boulder |
2012-03-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Brown Recluse
7C
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Hard. In the top 5 problems I've done. Awesome power moves on slopers up a tall, pretty face in the back woods of So Ill. Superb.
|
900
7c
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2012-03-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Jerry Rigged
7B+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
After realizing Pete's beta was surely too long for me, figured out my own and sent a couple tries later. Fun face, a little ass draggy bottom.
|
850
7b+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2012-02-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Cleopatra-Cinderella Traverse
7C
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Busted the crap outa my hands trying to work out the moves, then realized I wasn't using water. Sprayed on the H2O and sent 3 goes later. Pretty fun, even if I'm not a traverse fan.
|
900
7c
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2012-02-12
Red point
|
Red point |
The Womb
7C+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Climbs really well but looks like a turd. Went pretty quickly this time around. Exit cruxes be damned!
|
950
7c+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2012-02-10
Red point
|
Red point |
The Fouling
7A+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
I think it was this weekend.
|
750
7a+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2012-01-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Fortune
7A+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Nifty. Very low starting jug was soaked, started matched on pinch above. Bite me.
|
750
7a+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2012-01-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Shotgun
7A
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
2nd Go. BIG reach for some of us shorties.
|
700
7a+
(7a)
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2012-01-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Cleopatra
7B+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Finally got around to doing this. Woo scared myself on the topout. Traverse should go easy next time!
|
850
7b+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2012-01-15
Red point
|
Red point |
Cinderella
7B
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Yay for the non-dyno way.
|
800
7b
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2012-01-15
Red point
|
Red point |
A Face in the Crowd
7B
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Perhaps soft. Shoulda flashed, 2nd go.
|
800
7b
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2012-01-14
Red point
|
Red point |
The chronic
7B
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Kinda cool topout.
|
800
7b
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2012-01-14
Flash
|
Flash |
Spyro Gyro
7B
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
WAY less exciting than I thought. "Static" beta. Overhyped. Grade should be V7.
|
800
7b
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2011-12-22
Red point
|
Red point |
The Law
8A
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Finally. Nothing else to say.
|
1000
8a
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2011-12-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Fight or Flight
7B
Boulder
at
Brecksville
Conditions were 'good' meaning that it was cold and crisp. However, I struggled because my skin does not warm its ass up and stick to anything. Used only water on my fingers before the send (no chalk). 8th of Crack was one slimy mess and there is 3 feet of water underneath The Gem. Dammit!
|
800
7b
|
Brecksville | Boulder |
2011-12-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Now and Zen
7B
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Good one. Random note: When you put in the ascents in 27 crags, put them in as the accepted grade and mark your own opinion separately.
|
800
7b
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2011-12-02
Flash
|
Flash |
Dr. Atkinson
7B+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Second Go. Fantastic. One of the coolest 8's I've done. PTH with the spray down. Probably coulda flashed had I cared. I'm gonna start caring . . .
|
850
7b+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2011-12-02
Red point
|
Red point |
I Think I Can
7C
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Taking 8 for this cuz my fingers are fatter and I can't get them in or out of the holds. ;-) Used the jug in the middle cuz I didn't know otherwise.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2011-12-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Life is Goodlett
7A
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
These problems need to be combined into one (this is the correct spelling).
|
700
7a+
(7a)
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2011-12-01
Flash
|
Flash |
Psychosomatic
7C
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
I actually like it. Space should be a V9 and this a V8. My 2cents.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2011-12-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Dragon Slayer
8A+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Great technical and fun climb, despite looking weird (and climbing a bit funky too). Ironic that I made it to the slot 2nd try (today) but had to be tired out 2 hours later to only manage 2 fingers in the slot, sink the fingers in and send. Soft 11?. Heel hook beta out left.
|
1050
8a
(8a+)
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2011-12-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Arching Nemesis
7B
Boulder
at
Nelsonville, Ohio
FA of the sit, starting matched on rail a few feet under the arete. What a BEAUTIFUL line. Never thought I'd see something like this in Ohio, of all places. Super psyched and hoping to find more lines of this caliber around.
|
800
7b
|
Nelsonville, Ohio | Boulder |
2011-11-11
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Witch's Traverse
6B+
Boulder
at
Witch's Hill
Pretty arete. Classic lowball.
|
550
6b+
|
Witch's Hill | Boulder |
2011-11-06
Flash
|
Flash |
The Little Arete That Could
6B+
Boulder
at
Stroud's Run
Cool arete that climbs unexpectedly. Pretty sharp.
|
550
6b+
|
Stroud's Run | Boulder |
2011-10-23
Flash
|
Flash |
King Scar
7C+
Boulder
at
Stroud's Run
DESPERATE. Lurched to the last hold and managed to snag it off the heinous slopers. So psyched to put this one down. First double digit line (that I'm aware of) in Ohio, and a HARD 7C+ at that. Awesome Athen's crew to get me psyched. More lines to go.
Edit: There are apparently 1 or 2 double digit lines up around Cleveland that with some serious googling I turned up info about. More lines to go check out.
|
950
7c+
|
Stroud's Run | Boulder |
2011-10-23
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
To Slot or Not
6A+
Boulder
at
Stroud's Run
Super bitchin' problem, pretty face.
|
450
6a+
|
Stroud's Run | Boulder |
2011-10-16
Flash
|
Flash |
Nomad
6B+
Boulder
at
Stroud's Run
Weird little mantle problem. Sorta a party trick ordeal, but does take some attention/balance.
|
550
6b+
|
Stroud's Run | Boulder |
2011-10-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Big Mamas
6C
Boulder
at
Stroud's Run
2nd Ascent. Holy highball. 1st real highball I've done. 25+ feet with the crux with the hands at 20ish feet. Athen's has some serious potential, just the beginning of new lines going down.
|
600
6c
|
Stroud's Run | Boulder |
2011-10-16
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
B52
7B
Boulder
at
Stroud's Run
2nd Ascent. A little bit chaucey for the 1st undercling and feet, but by the 2nd hold onto high quality and sticky rock. Amazing arete; looks like Athens (and therefore Ohio) has some legit bouldering. Psyched!
|
800
7b
|
Stroud's Run | Boulder |
2011-10-16
2nd
Red point
|
2nd Red point |
Ghetto Methods
7C+
Boulder
at
The Cove
Finally did this thing, definitely not my style. Sweet moves, just wish it was freestanding.
|
950
7c+
|
The Cove | Boulder |
2011-09-11
Red point
|
Red point |
Zero Zero
7C+
Boulder
at
Chief Boulders
Harder v10 for me, probably cuz I split a tip and had to tape up. Pretty sharp even by my standards. SOOOO close to dabbing with my flag.
|
950
7c+
|
Chief Boulders | Boulder |
2011-06-11
Red point
|
Red point |
King Swing
7B
Boulder
at
Chief Boulders
HARD. Dear god I fell after the big move on the sit and then couldn't repeat. At least I got the stand. Really low percentage move for me.
|
800
7b
|
Chief Boulders | Boulder |
2011-06-09
Red point
|
Red point |
The Bulb
7B+
Boulder
at
Chief Boulders
Kinda sketchy topping this one out in the dark. Struggled to throw myself over the bulge of the boulder.
|
850
7b+
|
Chief Boulders | Boulder |
2011-06-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Worm World Cave
7C
Boulder
at
Chief Boulders
Quick. Would REALLY like to get a chance to go back and try the full line. Thank you for whoever left a couple pads stashed under the boulder.
|
900
7b+
(7c)
|
Chief Boulders | Boulder |
2011-06-09
Red point
|
Red point |
Mindbender (Low)
7C
Boulder
at
Chief Boulders
Ugh, couldn't put this down on the 1st day but wired the beta. Fell from matched over the lip 3 times and then sent 1st try easily the next day on. Epic frustration.
|
900
7c
|
Chief Boulders | Boulder |
2011-06-09
Red point
|
Red point |
The Airtight Garage
7B
Boulder
at
Chief Boulders
Sorft. Not sure what is so intricate about this, according to the guide. Just jacked the right foot way up under the start rail and rocked up to the big crimp right . . . done.
|
800
7b
|
Chief Boulders | Boulder |
2011-06-07
Flash
|
Flash |
Sesame Street
7C
Boulder
at
Chief Boulders
So close on the flash, very cool sequence. A little touchy with no spotters.
|
900
7c
|
Chief Boulders | Boulder |
2011-06-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Global Tetrahedron
7B+
Boulder
at
Castle rock, Idaho
Wow this was a different style problem then I've ever been on. Seems Hueco-ish. Super-rad. Took me a while to figure out the beta then sent 1st go thereafter. Shutdown in the Taco Cave.
|
850
7b+
|
Castle rock, Idaho | Boulder |
2011-05-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Superfly
7B+
Boulder
at
Little Cottonwood Canyon
Soft; Second GO. Straight forward, my style.
|
850
7b+
|
Little Cottonwood Canyon | Boulder |
2011-05-21
Red point
|
Red point |
All Thumbs
7C+
Boulder
at
Little Cottonwood Canyon
Took me a bit cuz it was HOT. Right in the sun. Beta from a local.
|
950
7c+
|
Little Cottonwood Canyon | Boulder |
2011-05-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Manly Arete
7A+
Boulder
at
Little Cottonwood Canyon
Sweet.
|
750
7a+
|
Little Cottonwood Canyon | Boulder |
2011-05-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Copperhead
7C+
Boulder
at
Little Cottonwood Canyon
Couple goes from the start. Straightforward.
|
950
7c+
|
Little Cottonwood Canyon | Boulder |
2011-05-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Scrawny and Brawny
7C+
Boulder
at
Right Fork
Short and sweet. Hard to keep the feet on. Perhaps a little soft, but just straight power.
|
950
7c+
|
Right Fork | Boulder |
2011-05-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Fingerhut
7C+
Boulder
at
Right Fork
The videos I've seen do not do this boulder justice. Beautiful boulder, ultraclassic movement. There's a reason so many people have done this . . .
|
950
7c+
|
Right Fork | Boulder |
2011-05-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Cage Free
8A
Boulder
at
Boulder Canyon
Put WAY too much time into this boulder. Just wasn't leaning back from the wall enough before gunning for the top. 1st time I leaned back further I almost stuck, then took a couple tries ripping up my hands realizing I had forgotten to chalk up the top of the boulder. Bah.
|
1000
7c+
(8a)
|
Boulder Canyon | Boulder |
2011-05-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Standard Bulge
6C+
Boulder
at
Boulder Canyon
|
650
6c+
|
Boulder Canyon | Boulder |
2011-05-03
Red point
|
Red point |
The Citadel
7B+
Boulder
at
Boulder Canyon
A right-ish variation? Do people go out to the jug way left? I used some ridiculous beta to go straight up without the jug. Definitely V8 the way I did it, would seem like V6 if you went out left.
|
850
7b+
|
Boulder Canyon | Boulder |
2011-05-03
Red point
|
Red point |
Crimson Flower
7C
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
The sit start to Trillium. Never had gotten myself to finish Trillium. Refined beta from David Quinney and Eric P to put this one down. Was hard for me to appreciate the quality of this climb 'til I did it.
|
900
7c
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2011-04-21
Red point
|
Red point |
Robbing the Toothfairy
7C
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Had to wet my fro with my secret spray bottle and pat it down so I could stop dabbing it on the tree.
|
900
7c
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2011-04-18
Red point
|
Red point |
White Face
7C+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Short and sweet. Took me 4 tries to stick the 1st move and then did it.
|
950
7c+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2011-04-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Burst of Joy
7B+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Yeah, I'm an idiot, but the problem is fun.
|
850
7b+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2011-04-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Covert Methods
8A
Boulder
at
The Cove
Hard (for 10). Definitely did not feel difficult today, friction was PERFECT. Has very cool movement for rock that doesn't look the prettiest. I am not sure why people call this an 'eliminate' problem, as it is not. Definitely just a distinct line from that which starts over further right and kinda traversing inward. Same hand sequence as Emerson in his olddddd video.
|
1000
7c+
(8a)
|
The Cove | Boulder |
2011-03-13
Red point
|
Red point |
300
7C
Boulder
at
Dayton pocket
Left exit. The right exit looks like it might be a little harder? I will have to try on another day. I was sooooo certain it exited out left, which makes perfect sense, but nooo. Brain fail.
|
900
7c
|
Dayton pocket | Boulder |
2011-02-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Boomslang
7B
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
One hard tension move, not v6 despite what the HP40 guide says.
|
800
7b
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2010-12-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Ghetto Superstar
7C
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Soft. My favorite HP40 problem. Fell off the topout 4 years ago and sent at the end of the day after a few tries (falling off the last move again once) this go around. It is a gym climbers problem more than most of hp40, but I will admit it is probably on the softer side of V9, but downing it to V8 is a bit extreme. Again, you give it the grade from your 1st send, you can't regrade it after you have done it 100 times. Come on now . . .
|
900
7c
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2010-12-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Megatron
7B+
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Cool problem, just a little lowballish.
|
850
7b+
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2010-12-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Skywalker
7C
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
The problem looks cool, the traverse is not that bad and neither is the topout with the beta from Drolet's friend. However, I did not find the crux move all that much fun. I think a lot of other hp40 classics climb MUCH better even if they don't look as cool. Just my thoughts :-)
|
900
7c
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2010-12-17
Red point
|
Red point |
The Pinch
7B
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Took me 4 or 5 tries to rock all the way up to the left sloper and then sent. Decent movement but ultimately not super thrilling.
|
800
7b
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2010-10-03
Red point
|
Red point |
Castaway
7B
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Fun, 1 mover. Used a left foot smear instead of the classic right foot. About 10 tries in 20 minutes?
|
800
7b
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2010-10-03
Red point
|
Red point |
Silence is the Question
7B+
Boulder
at
Beech Mountain
Despite being a bit of a butt dragger through the middle, it's a fantastic, beautiful boulder that climbs consistently through a lot of freakin' moves.
|
850
7b+
|
Beech Mountain | Boulder |
2010-05-22
Red point
|
Red point |
Purity (Extension)
7B
Boulder
at
Beech Mountain
Fun cross move from right into V3ish Purity.
|
800
7b
|
Beech Mountain | Boulder |
2010-05-17
Flash
|
Flash |
Gold
7B+
Boulder
at
Precipice Boulders
One of the best lines I got on in Acadia. Awesome movement, cool holds.
|
850
7b+
|
Precipice Boulders | Boulder |
2010-05-17
Flash
|
Flash |
Slick Willy
7C
Boulder
at
Great Head
weet problem in a awesomely unique setting. Took 7 or 8 tries from the start over two days, with lots of work on beta in the middle. Is the line between Center line and Right line, starting on the Right Line's jugs and working straight out.
|
900
7c
|
Great Head | Boulder |
2010-05-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Marine Biology
6B+
Boulder
at
Monument Cove
Problem that climbs OVER a standing pool of water. Don't fall in! Good movement.
|
550
6b+
|
Monument Cove | Boulder |
2010-05-14
Flash
|
Flash |
Yoga (Sit)
7B
Boulder
at
Monument Cove
Super sit start. Did regular start first which is V5. Fun, tensiony problem just to the left of 'Marine Biology'
|
800
7b
|
Monument Cove | Boulder |
2010-05-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Skintimate
7C
Boulder
at
45 Degree Wall
First ascent. Super sharp crimp line working up right from large jug on far right of the wall. Tore the crap outa my right pointer finger. 6 or so tries from the start. Hard V9? Reachy for me.
|
900
7c
|
45 Degree Wall | Boulder |
2010-05-14
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
The Bulge
7B+
Boulder
at
Great Head
Pretty sure I did this and probably have video in the archives but I never logged it. Will have to see what I can dig up.
|
850
7b+
|
Great Head | Boulder |
2010-05-13
Red point
|
Red point |
Right Line
6C+
Boulder
at
Great Head
Farthest right line in the large cave in the main area at Great Head. Good movement, fun for getting warm.
|
650
6c+
|
Great Head | Boulder |
2010-05-13
Flash
|
Flash |
Undercling King
7A+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Hard to not dab on the tree for topping out.
|
750
7a+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2010-04-17
Red point
|
Red point |
The Wave
7A+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Coolio. Epitomizes the diversity of climbing on real rock.
|
750
7a
(7a+)
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2010-04-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Spank the Baby
7B
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Quickie. I think I added a move by starting matched on the left 'jug' pocket and go out right to the undercling. 20 minutes or so, super cool 3 moves.
|
800
7b
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2010-04-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Instinct
7C+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Finally got this one after messing up the left shoulder on it stupidly a few weeks ago. Started with hands crossed making the 1st move so much easier. Soft 10? Hard 9? Whatever, awesome regardless.
|
950
7c
(7c+)
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2010-04-05
Red point
|
Red point |
Diesel Power
6C+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Nice 'compression' problem.
|
650
6c+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2010-04-02
Flash
|
Flash |
The Hulk
7A+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Holy shenanigans, what a pretty line and so hidden away! Very cool, very fun, friendly holds.
|
750
7a+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2010-04-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Grimace
7B+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Is the nice pinch on the right arete on? Didn't use it and wasn't sure. :-/
|
850
7b+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2010-04-02
Red point
|
Red point |
Golden Shower
6C+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Very cool V5 on a beautiful boulder. I like the progression of the moves. Headin' in the right direction for bagging Golden Harvest but not quite there yet. Maybe next trip . . .
|
650
6c+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2010-03-09
Flash
|
Flash |
Nose Candy
7A+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
|
750
7a+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2010-03-09
Flash
|
Flash |
Sherman Photo Roof
7B
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Fun problem, a bit body tensiony with some sharp-ish edges.
|
800
7b
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2010-03-09
Flash
|
Flash |
Helicopter Traverse
7B+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Have had this on my tick list for a while but didn't get a chance to get on it 'til today. Seemed too easy for a V9 as I flashed it without a struggle and repeated it for the camera shortly thereafter. Solid V8 however, and super fun problem regardless.
|
850
7b+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2010-03-09
Flash
|
Flash |
Honeycomb
7C+
Boulder
at
Dayton pocket
Worked it for like 5 hours a couple days before (with a quick beta walk through a few weeks earlier) and then sent quickly without a fuss the next day on. I am told it is soft but I honestly have no clue. Just tons of fun, very finger friendly holds. Move after the drop in is the crux for me.
|
950
7c+
|
Dayton pocket | Boulder |
2009-12-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Western Gold
8A
Boulder
at
Dayton pocket
Ummmmm, so FREAKIN' unexpected. My first V11 but just an outstanding line regardless of grade. (Easy to say after the send I suppose). About 4 hours in one day. I'm still trying to figure out how this happened. So expected Stankins to go down first. 5th ascent??
|
1000
8a
|
Dayton pocket | Boulder |
2009-12-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Celestial Mechanics
7B
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Definitely an awesome line. The big move is so much fun to stick. One of the best V7's I've done.
|
800
7b
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2009-12-24
Red point
|
Red point |
Sewer Rat
7C+
Boulder
at
One Horse Gap
My first FA. Gotta edit this (10/23/13) out of retrospect: it climbs really well but is on the same chossy, conglomerate that the whole area has. Two holds were crumbling, the start foot (less of an issue, a few grains of sand won't be missed) and the crux right hand crimp hold. If that right hand degrades much more it may become unclimbable. Before I said, "Absolutely incredible line down in the creek. Powerful crimp sequence to pockets and a huge throw off a tiny crimp/pinch. Fan-freakin' tastic. Fell off the topout a few weeks earlier. Slightly hesitant to give the V10 grade but given my struggle with it despite it being my style, and discussion with other climbers, I stand firmly behind the evaluation. The crux crimp and starting foot are potentially a bit crumbly."
|
950
7c+
|
One Horse Gap | Boulder |
2009-12-20
FA
Red point
|
FA Red point |
Life on Mars
7B+
Boulder
at
Jackson Falls
Tried this problem quickly a few weeks prior and was shut down. Ended up doing different beta: Started hands opposite of standard, went out right to a sloping rail even with my left hand, then locked off to the sharp crimp.
|
850
7b+
|
Jackson Falls | Boulder |
2009-12-19
Red point
|
Red point |
Gentlemen's Club
7C
Boulder
at
The Spot
Top 3 in So Ill. Originally graded a V10, which with the original beta is probably accurate. Used a previously ignored hold to make what was before the crux move not hard. Drops it at least 1, maybe 2 V-grades. Still freakin' bomber, beautiful roof. 22 moves of awesome for me.
|
900
7c
|
The Spot | Boulder |
2009-12-18
Red point
|
Red point |
Torpedo
7B
Boulder
at
Dayton pocket
Kinda neat feature, tho those crimps/edges are not the friendliest. Quick send.
|
800
7b
|
Dayton pocket | Boulder |
2009-12-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Reconciliation
6C+
Boulder
at
Dayton pocket
Took a couple tries. Wow was a burnt from the previous days. Fun, short little roof problem.
|
650
6c+
|
Dayton pocket | Boulder |
2009-12-06
Red point
|
Red point |
The Vagina
7B+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Cool looking boulder, decent problem. Had an epic with it. Shoulda flashed after sticking the small crimp out right and then didn't get the send 'til the following day. Blast. Soft-ish.
|
850
7b+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2009-12-05
Red point
|
Red point |
River Dance
7C
Boulder
at
Dayton pocket
My anti-style, as opposed to Hippie-Culture. Felt hard (like a V9) for me, tho I know people think it is soft. Very cool, beautiful setting, beautiful boulder. ~2 hours.
|
900
7c
|
Dayton pocket | Boulder |
2009-12-05
Red point
|
Red point |
The Orb
7B+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Pretty boulder. Good conditions. Had to moisten my hands with spit to soften my skin enough to feel the rock. Crazy. ~2 hour send.
|
850
7b+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2009-12-04
Red point
|
Red point |
Screaming Eagle
7A+
Boulder
at
The Roost
Pretty line. v5/6
|
750
7a
(7a+)
|
The Roost | Boulder |
2009-11-07
Flash
|
Flash |
Fusion
7A+
Boulder
at
Jackson Falls
|
750
7a+
|
Jackson Falls | Boulder |
2009-11-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Illinois's Biggest Sloper
7B
Boulder
at
The Roost
AKA 'The Gobler'
Super fast, 10 minute send. 3 or 4 goes. Definitely a crazy, sweet feature.
|
800
7b
|
The Roost | Boulder |
2009-11-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Beaver Eater Deluxe
7B
Boulder
at
The Roost
Cool and short. Quick send, 10 or 15 minutes.
|
800
7b
|
The Roost | Boulder |
2009-11-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Crimpmasterflash
7B
Boulder
at
Jackson Falls
One move. Literally. Dumb problem.
|
800
7b
|
Jackson Falls | Boulder |
2009-11-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Eternal Sunshine
7B+
Boulder
at
The Roost
Soft. Cool pinches. 30 minute send. v7/8
|
850
7b+
|
The Roost | Boulder |
2009-11-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Zig Zag
7B+
Boulder
at
So Ill
4 or 5 goes. I like the asthetics of the holds. Possibly an easier v8, but still an 8.
|
850
7b+
|
So Ill | Boulder |
2009-11-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Shadow of a Man
6C+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Slipped off the right hand sloper on the 1st go. Bah!
|
650
6c+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2009-10-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Turkey Jerkey
7B
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Fun problem, my style.
|
800
7b
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2009-10-10
Flash
|
Flash |
Kahuna Roof
7A
Boulder
at
Carter Lake
A handfull of goes, had to stop slipping off the foot. Fun sloper, topout is a bit sharp.
|
700
6c+
(7a)
|
Carter Lake | Boulder |
2009-07-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Who Needs Hueco
7B+
Boulder
at
Lincoln Woods
Short, fun problem. 10 tries or so. Probably gonna be easier if you're taller.
|
850
7b+
|
Lincoln Woods | Boulder |
2009-06-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Guns 'n Roses
7C
Boulder
at
Draper's Bluff
One of the best lines I've ever climbed, check out profile pic. Flailed to the top. Hard. Witnessed by Miss Lisa Podlecki.
|
900
7c
|
Draper's Bluff | Boulder |
2009-05-10
Red point
|
Red point |
Hippy Culture
7C
Boulder
at
Dayton pocket
Short, crimps. Possibly soft for the grade? I also fell in the river. Wow that was cold.
|
900
7c
|
Dayton pocket | Boulder |
2009-03-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Biggie Shorty
7C+
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
2hrs. First v10. It could not be more my style.
|
950
7c+
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2009-03-14
Red point
|
Red point |
Croc Bloc
6C+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Tall and beautiful. A proud line.
|
650
6c+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2009-03-07
Flash
|
Flash |
Inspired By An Idiot
7A+
Boulder
at
Rocktown
Nifty roof. Pretty sure I did something harder than the v6 version. Fun regardless.
|
750
7a+
|
Rocktown | Boulder |
2009-03-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Deception
7B
Boulder
at
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort)
Proud line. Very pretty. Would be the hardest v7 I've done if it's really 7a+. Where does brotherhood start?
Edit: I have repeated a couple times since. I was using ridiculous beta before. Still a hard V7, but I see the grade now.
|
800
7b
|
Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort) | Boulder |
2009-03-07
Red point
|
Red point |
Leatherface
7B
Boulder
at
Graveyard
Awesome problem on a 45. Good movement to a small jump crux. Same name as the problem in HCR!?!?
|
800
7b
|
Graveyard | Boulder |
2009-01-31
Red point
|
Red point |
Jungle Book
7B+
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Matt Maisak with the key beta for zer0 swing.
|
850
7b+
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2008-12-20
Red point
|
Red point |
Leather Face
7B
Boulder
at
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Straight forward under the roof, friends with topout beta ftw.
|
800
7b
|
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | Boulder |
2008-10-17
Flash
|
Flash |
Miho
7A+
Boulder
at
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
|
750
7a+
|
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | Boulder |
2008-09-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Africa Arete
7B
Boulder
at
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
|
800
7b
|
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | Boulder |
2008-09-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Moondye
7C
Boulder
at
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
1.5 Hours.
|
900
7c
|
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | Boulder |
2008-09-27
Red point
|
Red point |
Tablecloth
7C
Boulder
at
Elephant Rocks
95 degrees and high humidity.
|
900
7c
|
Elephant Rocks | Boulder |
2008-09-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Bulldog
7B+
Boulder
at
Friction Slab
Soft. Nifty. Used some wacked beta with a little pinch on the face instead of compression. Can't remember exact date. V7/8
|
850
7b+
|
Friction Slab | Boulder |
2008-08-12
Red point
|
Red point |
Body Karate
7C
Boulder
at
So Ill
Worked out the moves Sat night and sent after a few goes on Sunday morn.
|
900
7c
|
So Ill | Boulder |
2008-06-29
Red point
|
Red point |
O.B.D.
7A+
Boulder
at
Jackson Falls
Was quite humid. Scary topout.
|
750
7a+
|
Jackson Falls | Boulder |
2008-06-28
Red point
|
Red point |
Millipede
7A
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Grading on this bums me out: how do you downgrade after you have it wired . . .
|
700
7a+
(7a)
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2008-03-17
Red point
|
Red point |
The Thief
7B+
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
No heel hook. 45 minutes.
|
850
7b+
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2008-03-17
Red point
|
Red point |
Getcha Some
7A+
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Awesome, simple line.
|
750
7a+
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2008-03-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Thugs and Bitches
7B+
Boulder
at
Horse Pens 40
Soft. V7/8. One move wonder. Where are the feet?!?!
|
850
7b+
|
Horse Pens 40 | Boulder |
2008-03-16
Red point
|
Red point |
Bioterrorism
7A
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Fun slopers. Same day as Tyler Durden. Low-ball-ish.
|
700
7a
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2008-03-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Tyler Durden
7A
Boulder
at
Holy Boulders
Old picture of me on it the day I sent put up on facebook. Cool slopers and pinch for the grade.
|
700
7a
|
Holy Boulders | Boulder |
2008-03-01
Red point
|
Red point |
Tree Fog
7B
Boulder
at
Elephant Rocks
Can't remember the exact date. Have repeated since.
|
800
7b
|
Elephant Rocks | Boulder |
2007-09-01
Red point
|
Red point |