Tommi Johansson

So nice, hoped it would continue for longer. I was thinking the placements are thin, but they were actually pretty good all the way.

Happy I managed the send even I went solo with one pad. Good boulder!

Amazing route which should be more popular, but it’s pretty mental. I extend the 3rd bolt of the traverse to feel more safe. Took me something between 10-15 goes to finally get a clean send. And to improve my endurance. “Chilla” is a good name for it because it’s important to climb relaxed and very easy not to 😅

Good climbing. Somewhat sketchy lower part with natural gear. And somewhat sketchy bolted upper part with potentially breaking flakes 😅 next time lead.

90% trad route. Pity they had to put 2 bolts in the middle. Pretty scared first lead go but second one was solid. Top roped a few days earlier, 4th go

Seemed like the most logical line on this wall, but still quite serious middle part with half-good placements. The crux is well protected though 😅 Happy that Simon convinced me to fight through the fear!

Very nice line and there’s a tree at the top, for top rope, and also a sling and maillon to rappel down

First bolt is quite high but still okay without a clip stick. Nice line and continues up with Panda

Very good and fun line, should be more climbed. Two extensions/slings at bolts is almost necessary for it to be safe. First bolt pre clipped too. Also couple of flakes might break at some point. Other than that, very good 😅 5th go total and my first of the grade. Probably soft 😄Perfectly remembered and executed beta in good conditions.

Very good in my opinion. Very many tries. Good friction is important

First climbed using the wall on the left of crag for feet. Then climbed without it.

Continous

Amazing climb. Hard for 7b, three cruxes and pumpy in the end. My friend was prepared for a long fall..

3rd go after first trying the crux with bad beta :)

Essentially onsight, but Felix went first. Climbs very well. Tired fingers.

Really good. 7c+ in the guidebook but 7c feels fair. 2,5 goes :)

Very soft, but very good. Crimpy and technical.

Adventurous, tufas and aretes and endurance. Good warm up!

The classic route of the sector, happy to get it done. Hard for the grade. Everything magically dropped in the place at that 2nd go of the day, 4 goes total.

How possibly this doesn’t get stars?? Amazing climbing and you could climb it even in night due to illumination. The beginning polish is a bit annoying though. 2nd go

Fun and different route, 40m long. The last 15 m is very easy.

Very good :) led from the 6th bolt putting up draws not knowing what’s coming

This route has everything, delicate slabs, corners, boulder problems, crimps, traverses, you name it. 5/3 stars, just amazing

Demanding , I was on the very edge of not slipping or pumping out. One star out for polish, otherwise super good.

Amazing. Technical

More powerful than the one in the left, but very good too. 2nd go

Loved this route. Crimps crimps and other occasional holds. 4th go

Was very close to onsight, but the end was pumpy. Clip-stick the first bolt!!

Very crimpy and fingery, good climbing. 7a in guidebook but should be 7a+ at least. 2nd go desperately topping off in rain..

Very good!

Good, if you like slabs

Easy. At least if you compare to the 7a’s in other secrors, like Pesadilla. But good.

Good stuff

Bit unusual and mental line but the head game was good today! Great climb!

Good stuff, as the name could suggest “beautiful crimping” (ah it actually means good climb, but whatever..)

2nd. Nice and tricky, very fingery.

Super nice and good flow, crimps, pockets, technical! Little overhang too.

Very good vertical climb

Quite pumpy, nice

Continuous, vertical route with the first overhang. Perfectly my style. 2nd go but first was a year ago

Grades in France are tough. This was on my onsight limit

Very, very good. Full focus all the way.

Very warm January day

Fingery, technical, tricky. Nice route. 3rd go

Felt hard, had to be tough on the crux. But good line

Complex and mental and, unfortunately, somewhat polished. Gives a fine experience, though. Pretty hard!

Crux on small pockets and slopey footholds. Some nice tufas. Would get 3 stars if clipping the second last bolt/quickdraw wouldn’t be so freaking tricky.

Quite straightforward. All of these are so good it’s difficult to give less than two stars 😅 7a+ in the guidebook but I think 7a is appropriate.

Quality red limestone. Crux sequence is very fun, though the route feels a bit short in the end.

Super delicate crux and I was bit scared to clip the last draws when pumped. 2nd

Overhanging with long moves. Aesthetic and classic line

Delicate slab and bouldery end. Nice! Ps. Heelhook. 2nd go

Tough moves with crimps and pockets up there. 2nd

Fun, some traversing. Soft, if you figure where to reach to.

Very nice, though a bit short

Very fun sequence

7a+ in the guidebook but maybe 7a is more correct

Really good

Adventurous

Very fun though starts to be polished

Top rope first 3 draws and then lead - the beginning dyno/boulder is hard and could not do that on lead. Super classic on slightly overhanging/vertical wall!

Could be 7b+. Quite evenly difficult climbing before the (difficult to read) bouldery crux. Polish was not too bad. Fun!

Hard for grade, probably due to polish

Pretty hard (powerful and airy) crux. 2nd go

Very good. Couple of harder technical sections separated by some kind of rest. Starts to be a little bit polished but not too bad. 2nd go

This is also very good, just enough headgame and power left for the ending moves.

Beautiful

Very cool route with cool moves indeed, and somehow fought through it the first go. The option to traverse to right at the mid-part crux probably makes the route ‘soft’ however

Hard. Superb.

Soft

Amazing route. Powerful crux and continues after it, got pumped. Great sector too.

Tried this a year ago and couldn’t do then. Now second go, still the beginning felt hard/delicate. Couple of nice sequences at the beginning and end though

Huh, tough movements on overhang and also before, but fun route with a nice view

Beautiful on pockets. Felt stiff

Super beautiful route. So technical. Cleverly bolted. 2nd go

Super hard for a 6c. But good one, aesthetic

Amazing climb, loved every second of it. Missed onsight by a few centimetres

This onsight I was happy about in the current physical condition. Tricky vertical climbing

Climbing something fun while recovering from flu - cool flake!

Climbing something fun while recovering from flu

Fun

Very good

Great 6b slab

Wow wow

Sharp on places, but cool moves

We did the multi pitch with variations 5c, 6a+/6b, 6a, 5b. I led most pitches

Very nice, delicate top, first half is easy, maybe a bit easy for the grade.

One of the best of the grade

I liked it! Crimpy and endurance, crux for me was in the beginning. 3rd go, did the first one in rain and darkness 😂

Nice!

2nd go after misreading the crux - endurance is needed, difficult to read on parts

In pitch-black with a headlamp 😅

Vertical and technical

Cool corner climbing

2nd, didn’t see the good hold. A good vertical climb

Easy for 7b, maybe also for 7a+, but very bouldery. Nice moves!

Olipas jännimpiä kiipeämiäni reittejä. Vaikea greidata, mutta tuntu vaikealta, hassut varmistukset, sammalta ym. Lopussa menin todennäköisesti väärin, mutta ei varmasti helpottanut greidiä.. kantsii vissiin mennä hieman oikean kautta

A very hard 6c imo, but nice if you like delicate climbing with small holds :)

Quite nice despite it was short and I barely jammed 😅

Even this deserves a star I think. Surprisingly hard

A very nice crag and problem

Nice, high, good holds. Exciting alone and with a crazy wind.

Nice moves. But soft, maybe I started too much to left?

Cool one, surely done way earlier? I did both the flake and straight up versions, maybe 6a+/6b and 6c

Nice. Had to try start a couple of times, but went with the straightforward way

Exciting. Start took too many tries

2nd, nice moves, almost as tricky as the sitstart version

Nice and easy

The crux was still at the stand start version.

Kiva layback/jammi/krimppihänkkireitti! Olis aika jännä kyl boulderoida tai liidaa. ”Toprope-onsight”

Mitähän tähän sanoisi, etenkin loppupätkä todella hieno ja ankkurille meno kuumottava 😅 ehkä pultti tai kaksi olisi lisää voinut olla

Muutama vuosi sitten en edes tajunnut miten tämä tulisi kiivetä, nyt toimi lämppärinä raskaan työviikon jälkeen. Jotain kehitystä siis kai tapahtunut 😅 onpa hienoja krimppejä ja listoja

Nice and not scary, found okay’ish 4th and 5th placements too. But couldn’t be just 6a+ if it was a sport route

Did the 7+ variation. Nice and even!

The 5+ variant

Very nice and well protected. Felt easy for the grade (but maybe I got more comfortable with trad)

Happened to free solo this 😅

Followed, not easy to protect partly if you go straight up the thin crag. Very varying climbing, stemming, technical, face climbing, jamming etc!

Followed. Difficult to grade or comment when following 😅

Very nice and varied route.

Followed. Felt easy

So cool line despite (and also because of) traversing. I was quite sure I’d fall after getting too pumped from figuring out the beta and placements, but somehow held it together. Good holds and placements.

Very good local boulder problem. High boulders are exciting alone..

Very, very nice for the grade and the most of the climbing is chill

Exciting, but cool! Was more tricky mentally than I expected.

Good climb though short. Anchor = tree at the top. 4th go as I was stubborn with my beta..

Interesting climbing on face. 2nd go. Dry when everything else was wet

Nice route, the placements are okay, 2 bolts in the middle. 2nd go after figuring out the crimp sequence

Quite nice, crux is with the bolt, otherwise trad. 2nd

Good line, worth climbing. Didn’t clip any bolts

Good and obvious route. The crag part is relatively easy. 2nd go. Agreeing that this needs more ascents! Even anchor at the top.

Long moves, fun climbing

Cool climb! Didn’t feel soft for me

Barely deserves any stars in my opinion, couple of meters cool climbing only

All of this wall is so good. Exciting traverse part

Now this was a good go :) knew the ending from Kronenbourg

One of my favourite climbs, so fun crimping and the end crag. Did it a year ago with preplaced cams, now putting the gear on go.

Another very good line

Super good. Well protected. Hard first 7 meters, even then it’s not walk in the park. My first trad 7- ?

Difficult jams, beginning crux and end crux. But so good.

Very fun easy jamming your way up.

Good route, good sector! This felt hard for grade, but maybe i was tired

Nice route despite a bit short, crimps and tufas and interesting moves

I did the hard parts of both this and the route on the left, so felt like a 6c/6c+ experience, but fun climbing using two crags and weird holds

Super nice DWS. Couple of pretty hard sections, some good rests too.

First deep water solo experience :)

I thought I was climbing 6b, no wonder it felt difficult.

Ending surprised me

2nd go, somewhat slippery in the summer, I might have used a hold of other route in the middle but still feels like (a soft?) 7a with that beta

So much fun!! the polish didn’t feel like a problem

Very good route, though somewhat polished. Endurance. 3rd go

Good line too, pretty exposed and difficult at the top for the grade!

Great line with many solutions. Desperate send on the 4th go, still probably didn’t have the best beta, just commitment

Lyhyehkö mutta sisältää hienoja mooveja. Falkbergetin eka seiska mulle :) 3rd go, alun kruksi herkkä

Kiva ja hyvin varmistettava

The beginning was tricky, overall a nice climb. I think I’ve tried it long time before, thus redpoint

Hyvä flow! Hauska

Alku vähän vaikea ja loppu oli kyllä tosi murenevaa, se jännitti myös varmistuksien puolesta. Saisi tähtiä ilman lopun kivenlaatua, puulle menin kuitenkin.

Vaikeahko luettava

Hyvä reitti ja hyvin varmistettava

Hyvä reitti. Varmaan eka kerta sporttireitillä, että pitää laskeutua puusta, no why not 😅

Hyvä reitti ja hyvin varmistettava

Hyvä ja erilainen reitti! Pulttaus tuntui itselle ihan hyvältä?

Eka 7a saitti Suomessa, eli väittäisin softiksi, mutta ehkä oli vain hyvä flow :) tosi hieno

Hyvä reitti. Hyvin varmistettava. Partially bolted = yksi pultti 😅

Sateessa kiivetty mikä toi vähän jännitystä. Mutta onhan tää hieno linja ja ankkurikin topissa!

Todella hieno reitti, krimppejä ja teknistä, vaihtelevaa kiipeilyä. Tokalla.

Hyvä reitti. Yllättäen tokalla vaikka jo kovasti väsyttikin. Viimeisten muuvien betan löytyminen oli vaikeaa, mutta löytyy sieltä järkevä ratkaisu!

Superb. Good placements and fun climbing on the quite vertical wall

The mantle felt hard! Partly as it was dirty. I was having pretty much fear there, as last placement was low, off the line and not too good 😅

Nice!

Nice!

Herkkä keskipätkä ja mentaalinen - vaikea greidilleen. Tokalla.

Hieno. Muutama vuosi sitten ajattelin, että tämä olisi liian vaikea

Very good as well and nice little roof crux

Very good and even climbing, works as a warm up!

As hard as Ork, if not harder? Very good.

Great problem! Soft, 2nd go

Nice. Went even with no great friction

Nice! Easy start leads to couple of crimpy and/or long moves higher up. Soft?

Nice. Had a good go

Happy to do this ‘the most popular 7a in Sweden’ first go. Bit polished footholds but was okay. Fun climbing for sure.

Very important to trust the feet, even if it feels slippery, it’s okay! 2nd go with top rope, should have led it…

Pretty fun stuff! Felt a bit soft. Mostly good holds.

2nd go. Super cool and long. Crux was not easy (being not too short helped).

Beautiful climbing. Final 4th go of the day, just when the wall got in the sun. 4-5 sessions 😅

Fun and delicate crux sequence but had to go a bit left in the end (with left hand). Feels like the grade is correct this way, could be a + too.

Very various and nice! Gives good pump! The mini dyno is fun.

The dyno felt impossible before figuring out a working beta. Just try different solutions! :) after that the route became super fun

Nice route, should be more popular! Little unclear in the middle and 4th clip pretty delicate.

Bra flytt! Behövs några crashpads

Difficult to read, but when the beta is found, nice alternating climb

Bit unclear line, sharp and hard crimping, but worth doing if you like crimps

Unsure what should be the starting holds? But did a sit start too

Top out..

Difficult and sequency, but so much fun after figuring it out!! Bouldering on rope

Nice one. Hard for 6b (the ending)

Little dirty in places (beginning), but not so bad than some other routes

One of the best in the crag! Sustained, but with rest in the middle.

Exciting top out

Good, and little scary alone

Nice, but felt hard for 6a+

Bra uppvärmningsled :) very cold fingers

Pretty nice despite hard crimping in the beginning. 2nd go

Nice slab

Not so easily secured start and felt harder than 5. Rest is easy

Somewhat easy compared to other 6cs in the area

Sit start. Very happy to tick this classic!

Very beautiful setting, beautiful pitches. The 6a+, 6b, 6b+ were superb. The 6c roof crux pitch was hard and polished. Windy at parts. Led pitches 2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10.

Mentally challenging, neither easy for the grade. 3 stars in the guidebook

Beer is good

Good route reading this time :)

Very good route, should get more ascents! First 7c. Third go after failing the anchor clip on 2nd, good flow today!

Very good with varying styles and rock, adventurous. So weird no ticks here

Life is sweet!

Good flow!!

Fun overhanging, continuous climbing, good holds. why this doesn’t get stars? 2nd go

All of these three routes starting with the same slab are Great!

Pretty hard with the polished holds (the end), but still fun

Spectacular indeed, lots of different styles, not too polished. The last slab was so delicate. 3rd go.

Woooow. Superb.

Nice route despite little slippery beginning

2nd go. Cool route with a strong crux

Nice variety. Tricky.

One of the best routes of the grade I’ve climbed. Could be a 6b

2nd. Very cool traversing route with a distinct crux

2nd. Mostly endurancy

8 pitches, led them all. Nice line though pretty polished. Was very windy day and much people on the route.

Good endurance route with good and bad pockets. 2nd go.

Got the pump of my life. Cool start as well. 3rd go

I liked it. Decent rest in the middle, otherwise sustained, hard start

Hard for the grade. Nice, though little awkward, crag/dihedral

Pretty good, the overhang is a clear crux, but I think 6c+ in the guidebook

Very good and varied, if a bit sharp in the end

Cool route, if a bit soft for the grade. Technical vertical part leads to good rest and nice overhang finish.

Hard for 6b, slippery start, nice finish though

Quite nice i think, the last half especially

I liked it! Nice sequence and traverse in the beginning, slabby end

Nice crag start leads to crimpy and interesting climbing

Almost slipped the topout

Nice but what 4??

One of the best problems in Göteborg of the grade

Very good

Bra problemet

Veery nice route with good crimps and sequences! 2nd go

2nd. Little high

I think this would be called ’Bökig’ in Swedish! Took a while to figure it out.

With left pinch. Quite fun line and grade holds I think

A bit unclear start but nice short line

Good beta from Andreas. Worth climbing, different, you can also continue up and finish it with Marathon.

Felt stiff, but improved beta helps very much. 4th go of the day / 6th total

A must do extension for an already good route. Very varied with first half overhang, second half technical slab.

Date not exact

Date not exact

Exciting. Bättre säkringsmöjligheter än du tror, men inte hellt bra 😅

Absolutely enjoyable and well-secured climb

This I enjoyed very much.

Fun climbing, but agreeing with Kasper with the overrated! Rather uneven as well.

Very fun, deserves a star or two!

This somehow suited a sport-climber like me. Nice one!

Felt stiff for a 5

Fun problem, though somewhat dirty now

Very happy of the route and the send

Followed. Very dirty, otherwise it could be Nice

Huh, exciting, but cool

First trad/mixed ascent for a while

I had a lot of fun on this one! Jamming test piece for a beginner trad climber.

Followed on this one. Seemed a full trad line? Quite easy for grade.

Not easy to place gear in places, especially in the end

Boulders and decent rests

Very wicked crux with a few possible betas. Took me a lot of tries!

Finally sticked to the last hold. Took about 10 goes. Very cool route I think!

All of these climbs are so good

Superb climbing. Hard for the grade. 2 cruxes

All the 6c’s on this wall are worth stars! Hard clip to the anchor.

I was so focused on climbing I barely remember it anymore 🤣

Great climbing when the mood is right, long stretches. 2nd go. 4th climbing day in a row 😅

Hard crux for me, but maybe the onsight beta was not the best one

Very cool long arête route, boulderproblems with ok rests in between

Well worth climbing, though runout in the end

Aika tiukka oli, pieni kuumotus lämppäreitiksi :)

Olipas vaikee alku greidille

Very delicate and short, but interesting crux sequence. 2nd

Layback definitely! :D

Kumma aloitus

Long and technical moves, probably easier for tall. Felt pretty spicy. Many ways to do the crux.

Super fun route, why this doesn’t have a star or two?

Nice and delicate crux move

Took many tries, but finally the dyno went together with the rest

Pretty fun but very short, felt quite easy

I like it, so pumped at the top

Tough crimping in the beginning

Heh heh..

Nice sequencing. 2nd go

Bit unclear line, but anyways

Pretty fun, long moves on overhang (bit small crimps though)

First go of today. Nap made the difference!

Quite nice. Bit hard start and then easier. Maybe my hardest trad ascent so far.