Rami Pääkkönen

still tough! heel hooks help if u weak.

climbs surprisingly different than the one on the right.

nicer than it looks, really

soft?

a bit intimidating, but fun

insecure start position, exciting

High, sensitive, powerful and a bit complex. a dream line!

very techy beta helps if you lack power ;)

maybe the best "nameless" route I've done, cool unique holds, a bit high, nice movement... Would be a mega classic where I live.

nice easy line

I think nicer movement on this one, more special

surprisingly stiff

intense for the knee, otherwise really beautiful... ss from the rightmost two crimps one above the other, like the videos.

not too sandy, but very pumpy

6A undercling+kneebar (since this seems to be the most used beta here)

sneakers

less pumpy variation, but one move is kinda hard and long

pumpy, but with some technique manageable

very cool line, a bit spooky, but the landing is quite ok after all

just high, not hard

Ok traverse

This is a nice formation!

A bit of a battle

In mild rain.

Tricky to get up

Quite fun

Pumpy slopes

A fine line!

olipa ärsyttävä alku

tough

herkkä, kivaa puuhaa vasemmalle jalalle

mega low start (almost hands free), bizarre mid part and a pumpy finish. Great!

sketchy feet

hard start, but fun

really cool, felt impossible some years ago and I blamed being too short, but this time it felt quite solid. Maybe I was weak instead of short.

The airport police called us while we were climbing, and even came to check us with a van while patrolling the area. Hence the name of the route.

lowball traverse and top out the same or left of "Kevään matala kynnys". felt about the same difficulty.

this was really fun, special move!

fun burly moves!

used the hand in a different config, left gaston, right 3f crimp. made more sense, and felt closer to the grade

I had a perfect flash beta, which I failed to use. instead I just scrapped myself up, very ugly

nice and pure

really cool moves, if holds were not so sharp, would give maybe 3 even.

start: left crimp, right lowest part of ramp. had to make a trick beta for myself, because did not like the match ;) nice!

stiff start

fun moves!

start only with the big hole, use only the right arete. fun variation,

monon kautta, en tiä mikä reitti tää oli?

a grade 4+ comp boulder. what a dream!

tough transition from ss to the undercling pinch.

olispa kyykkyvoimaa

6C in bleau.info. sitstart both hands in undercling, no jumping off the pad ;)

fun roof crank, and a cool conglomerate starting hold!

tokalla, hieno!

cool!

!!!

ss

started on the lowest jugs, 1st 2 moves are no joke. though it can be another crux to get off the ground if you're tall.

haute torsion (7A) short version, up with mantel after the marble shelf.

I climbed without the jug bowl. Some of the best moves in a long time, but you get most of them on the 6A version as well.

check bleau.info for details of the route

2nd go, should have paid more attention. much better than you'd think!

tough

see through jug!

sweeeet

KOVA! slightly polished starting foot hold, but it still works. total marble

kova!

vissiin väärin kiivetty saatana, silti ihan hapoilla. ei voi olla nelosella eliminaattia.

sit start

compression start, super cool!

sit start at beginning in the left of the sloper shelf

stopped standing up on the big ledge, fun mantle!

cool compression thing, powerful and/or technical! 7A+ seems right to me. climbed in perfect +10°C evening conditions

difficult bunched up midpart, probably even harder if you are tall

die low and high sitstart, nice crunching

would be more stars if wasn't so sharp rock

kinda awkward

nice flowy jug city

bueno

very cool line, jamming optional but fun.

ugly top out again, +31°C

low sit started, under the roof in jugs.

a nice hold in the top!

barefeet

cool! jamming not necessary tho.

surprisingly good! did not use the rock below, or the rock left.

good top out practice!

bare feet

fun, and not too scary

The right arete is used even in the beta videos, so I also climbed with no eliminates, using some stuff to the right as well. The damage is done, now EVERYONE just has to downgrade this to 6B+/C. In the future, eliminates should be stated clearly as what they are, because people interpret things differently if there is any vagueness., Compare this: "The jug makes it easier" vs "The jug is eliminated". One can be seen as beta spray, one is clear eliminate.

real nice, but felt ultra hard with the summer heat

laituri-mantteli!

fun! start is awkward, but the rest is worth it

a bit powerful, and avoiding tree dab is the difficult part.

cool holds!

started from the lowest sloper, both hands

pumpy!

did not use any separate blocks, although many of them are covered in chalk... :/

1st try, but tried it 6 years ago.

bare feet! a cool airy 5+

nice one!

good roof jamming problem!

reachy for a 5+

felt like a 7A mantel to me. nice and clear line

+29 and direct sun, optimal sending again

Roof crack + seal top out with scetchy fist jamming. Nice! I cleaned a bucket full of sand and debris from the route, and asked some locals about the line; apparently it hasn't been done before.

very bad under + very good foothold = fun times

tricky start, pumpy finish.

pumpy

mega!

Parempi kuin miltä näyttää! Ukkoskelillä ja melkein putsattuna aika napakka

Nice! a good addition

It delivers what the description promises: a Font-feeling desperate top out.

can be climbed with about 18 different betas: direct deadpoint, heel-toes, feet first, compression... pick your fav.

A farewell to Åland after a holiday month of absolute cranking!

start: right hand very low, and left hand in the low crimp (not the jug!). first move is the hard one, from the jug it's 5+ maybe.

not that much harder than direct with solid beta, but some long/powerful moves maybe. 2-3 days of projecting.

Looks strange, but it is a good route after all, very core intensive! 2 days of projecting. broke a personal record today, 2*7B in one day

Cool moves! I had to do something both powerful AND technical. Climbed it twice because 1st time dabbed the tree. start: left blocky under jug, right low sloper on the outer wall. 2 days of projecting.

short guy beta, tight compression felt real hard. 2-3 days of projecting.

so hard, so pumpy, if you top out all the way in the corner like it's supposed to.

not nice, dumb downclimb and awkward crux. voodoo is better. did it with zero pad dabbing and with the downclimb start.

felt hard for a short guy, very complex moves in a long crux sequence. took me two sessions.

powerful for the grade, but cool

this was nice, and not too hard once you figure it out

good for a strange start

fingery, but ok.

nice spitter crack! 3 star line, but -1 star because the pure crack is defiled by a couple of actual holds.

lenkkareilla, pakollinen lepopäivän jyystö

mini dyno

kivat moovit ja otteet

always felt impossible, this year went secend try.

two days of projecting, and about 27 different self made betas, ended up using the lady beta after all. 3 star route, but -1 star for the crappy pocket.

kisamaiset moovit

did also the sit under the roof

amazing roof crack! been eyeballing this line for so long, totally worth it. if you can't jam, this will feel like a sand bag.

surprisingly nice! The crux is coming here when there is no water under the route XD #hellekiipeilyt

a star for the name *

crockseilla

tough

aika erikoisella betalla mentiin

fun moves

one full day of projecting, I think solid 7B. probably easier for slim fingers. ps. Tää oli mun 200. seiskan boulderi :D

started with a foot jam. Nothing but love for cracks, especially the off-width ones. <3

without using the big stone floor. much nicer than it looks. Thank you Mia for the beta :)

Fontsumainen, greidi saattaa olla plussan verran sinne tai tänne, helteellä sai ainakin painia.

reachy

tosi hieno!

climbed it twice with wrong starting beta, then for the 3rd ascent found out how the correct starting holds are supposed to be used.

alkuun on vaikia päästä

one move

tiukka, kamalat sloupit helteessä

menin ehkä liian matalalla, tuntui hankalalta ja oudolta

fun crack

cool holds!

En tiedä oliko tästä jo menty? Kaikkien hienojen otteiden välistä siis, itse lähdin vasen krimpistä ja oikea kulmikkaasta sloupista.

mini compression problem

fun holds!

pumpy and slippery

started from lower narrow sider slot for left. the 1st move is the 7A, starting any higher makes it 6B...

one move wonder, but fun

a cool problem!

olipa metka kolo

crockseissa, huippureitti!

harder than anything else here. +29°C and bad foot technique does not help. melkein meni tunteisiin tämä

helpompi kuin viereinen

nicer and more comlpex than it looks. +29°C

tough refrigerator-grab

tough refrigerator-grab

a very strange full palm pinch compression for the right hand earns this route 1 star.

short and fun

for me felt like a solid 7A+. weak fingers, tiny crimps, nice moves!

to do -listan kevätsiivous. lyhyt napakka kruksi, tänä vuonna tuntui melkein helpolta, 8v sitten loppui nahka kesken

sharp start, fun top!

fun middle move

very good! both left and right variant are fun

nice, but dirty and a bit spooky at the top

rough and slippery at the same time, but quite pleasant

strange, I started left hand in fist jam, right on the block, then climb towards "Olaf, 6B". a bit unclear route finding

exciting for shorter climbers for sure

ekalla, mutta tutut otteet.

one of the most special finger micro betas for the start. and the thanks goes to Petteri, once again :)

tämä oli kivaa

ekalla, mut toppi tuttu

sormikoukku lähdössä..

hyvällä betalla toinenkin tähti olisi varmaan paikallaan

kausiflässi, kerrankin tuntuu että on vahvistunut ja 6Beet menee!

olihan kiva, betaa ja sekvenssejä piti vähä hakea

metka treenidyno

powerful for grade

absolute fight with bloody hands and a split fingertip. took countless falls from the top before sending. 3 full days of projecting.

awkward beta options and always wet holds. topped both hands on the mini corner jug after the slope.

vihdoin! tänä vuonna tuntui jo 7A:lta. started right hand on good crimp, left hand even lower gaston crimp.

Erilainen core-treeni.

ekalla, mut vähä liian samankaltaiset otteet ku viereisessä

helposti kiipeää itsensä solmuun

started with lowest crimps.