Yearly top 10 averages
Summary
Gr.
Tot
On
Fl
Re
To
Diagram
5.12d 0 0 0 0 0
5.12c 1 0 0 1 0
5.12b 15 0 2 13 0
5.12a 22 1 1 20 0
5.11d 45 0 2 43 0
5.11c 42 4 4 34 0
5.11b 45 7 8 29 1
5.11a 37 4 11 22 0
5.10d 57 15 27 14 1
5.10c 39 16 19 4 0
5.10b 36 8 22 6 0
5.10a 15 7 8 0 0
5.9 5 2 3 0 0
5.8 1 1 0 0 0
5.7 3 2 1 0 0
5.6 1 0 1 0 0
5.5 0 0 0 0 0
Highlights
Crags visited:
67
Ascents total:
372
Ascent types
Red point On-sight Flash Top rope
Ascents
Ascent date Ascent date Route Crag Type Grade Ascent type
2014-03-02
2014-03-02
On-sight
Isili
5.11c Sport at Scheiblingskirchen
overhanging start with jugs, then passage with crimps and to the top. managed to recover by BREATHING at the end hahaha ;)
Scheiblingskirchen Sport 5.11c On-sight
2014-03-02
2014-03-02
On-sight
Mayhem
5.10a Sport at Scheiblingskirchen
warm-up on pockets
Scheiblingskirchen Sport 5.10a On-sight
2014-03-02
2014-03-02
Red point
Merlin's Crack
5.11a Sport at Scheiblingskirchen
great dihedral to stem up, at the end pumpy traverse to the left...awesome doing sport-climbing in austria in march!!! next time "midian direkt"!!!
Scheiblingskirchen Sport 5.11b (5.11a) Red point
2014-03-01
2014-03-01
Red point
Raum x Zeit
V5+ Boulder at Merkenstein
cool climb on crimps and pockets and some heel-hooks, then reachy move to jug and quite high top-out
Merkenstein Boulder V5+ Red point
2014-02-26
2014-02-26
Red point
Dachsbau-Traverse
V5+ Boulder at Kremstal
nice overhanging wall with a traverse starting left and going to the right with a shouldery move, then three moves to cross with the left hand and top-out. possible to traverse more to the right and top-out there.
Kremstal Boulder V5+ Red point
2014-02-23
2014-02-23
Red point
Niki's Sonnen-Mantle
V3+ Boulder at Kremstal
nice mantle which niki started to clean and brush. some metres left of "teil einer jugendbewegung" right next to a tree. good moves with a sloper and a crimps which you change to undercling to top-out. don't if already some climbed that, otherwise a historical FA hahaha ;)
Kremstal Boulder V3+ Red point
2014-02-17
2014-02-17
Red point
Dipende dal PIL
V4 Boulder at Cresciano
nice overhanging sloper-arete with dynamic moves to crimp at the end
Cresciano Boulder V4 Red point
2014-02-15
2014-02-15
Flash
Giovanni Patacca
V1+ Boulder at Cresciano
another tall slab with good crimps
Cresciano Boulder V1+ Flash
2014-02-15
2014-02-15
Flash
Bechamelle
V2 Boulder at Cresciano
tall, but easy slab
Cresciano Boulder V2 Flash
2014-02-15
2014-02-15
Red point
Velociraptor
V4 Boulder at Cresciano
slightly overhanging shield...with strange artifical hole
Cresciano Boulder V4 Red point
2014-02-14
2014-02-14
Red point
Shiraz
V4 Boulder at Cresciano
sharp crimps on vertical bloc
Cresciano Boulder V4 Red point
2014-02-14
2014-02-14
Flash
Mano Lesta
V3+ Boulder at Cresciano
another sloper-arete. the 7a+ sitstart i couldn't understand
Cresciano Boulder V3+ Flash
2014-02-14
2014-02-14
Red point
Money for Nothing
V5 Boulder at Cresciano
niiiice sloper-arete
Cresciano Boulder V5 Red point
2014-02-12
2014-02-12
Red point
Spider Catcher
V4 Boulder at Chironico
nice bloc in snowey conditions. line goes up the right arete
Chironico Boulder V4 Red point
2014-02-12
2014-02-12
Red point
Energy
V5 Boulder at Chironico
sitstart and move to a painful crimp, then under-cling and stand-up
Chironico Boulder V5 Red point
2014-02-11
2014-02-11
Red point
Hopper
V5 Boulder at Chironico
sitstart on crimp and two moves on crimps, then dyno to jug. completely wet so i destroyed my fingers a bit ;)
Chironico Boulder V5 Red point
2014-02-11
2014-02-11
Red point
Triade
V5 Boulder at Chironico
beautiful (and on this day dry) line on this huge wall. crux with heelhook...2nd go :)
Chironico Boulder V5+ (V5) Red point
2014-02-09
2014-02-09
Flash
First Class
V1+ Boulder at Cresciano
beautiful slab with a fine crack
Cresciano Boulder V1+ Flash
2014-02-09
2014-02-09
Flash
...
V2 Boulder at Cresciano
beautiful bloc with nice view
Cresciano Boulder V2 Flash
2014-02-09
2014-02-09
Red point
...
V3+ Boulder at Cresciano
funny, little arete
Cresciano Boulder V3+ Red point
2014-02-09
2014-02-09
Flash
Icaro`s step
V3 Boulder at Cresciano
same bloc with the nice view
Cresciano Boulder V3 Flash
2014-02-09
2014-02-09
Flash
Roller
V3+ Boulder at Cresciano
nice slab
Cresciano Boulder V0 (V3+) Flash
2014-02-06
2014-02-06
Flash
Selly
V3+ Boulder at
nice & funny warm-up right next to "champane supernove"
Boulder V3+ Flash
2014-02-06
2014-02-06
Red point
Champane Supernova
V5+ Boulder at
awesome line out a roof, dyno to the lip and funny mantle...tried it a bit some weeks ago and today first try, though bad & wet conditions :)
Boulder V5+ Red point
2014-02-06
2014-02-06
Red point
Lost in Translation
V7 Boulder at
great boulder to finish off the day!!! hard first section with 5 crazy moves, then sustained and pumpy along the lip of the boulder. checked out the tricky end two days before and linked the first passage with the big move so i knew it's possibe :)
Boulder V8 (V7) Red point
2014-02-04
2014-02-04
Red point
Entree
V5+ Boulder at
nice moves on slopers with an essential hook which has to stick good
Boulder V5+ Red point
2014-01-08
2014-01-08
On-sight
Metamorfosis
5.11b Sport at Los Remedios
nice boulder on crimps at the beginning, then beautiful moves on good holds to the top
Los Remedios Sport 5.11b On-sight
2014-01-08
2014-01-08
Flash
Gobi
5.11d Sport at Los Remedios
nice boulder up the first 3 quick-draws, then a beautiful & balancy arete and two easy roofs at the end...FLASH!!! :)
Los Remedios Sport 5.11d Flash
2014-01-08
2014-01-08
On-sight
Spiritchaser
5.10d Sport at Los Remedios
nice warm-up route with chimney, crimps and pockets
Los Remedios Sport 5.10d On-sight
2014-01-08
2014-01-08
On-sight
Vaykuntha
5.12a Sport at Los Remedios
awesome 20 metres of dihedral-climbing with nearly no holds and a lot of hard steming and crazy foot-positions, then the really intimitating roof which you climb up using a brutal lay-back-finger-crack followed by a strange mantle...my first 5.12a ONSIGHT!!! What a day :)
Los Remedios Sport 5.12a On-sight
2014-01-02
2014-01-02
Flash
Paralello-Line 1
V3 Boulder at Peñoles
highball on futuristic rock-features...don't know about grade or name...about V2-3
Peñoles Boulder V3 Flash
2014-01-02
2014-01-02
Flash
Paralello-Line 2
V3 Boulder at Peñoles
highball no.2 on futuristic rock-features...don't know about grade or name...about V2-3
Peñoles Boulder V3 Flash
2014-01-02
2014-01-02
FA Red point
Schnapp den Elch
V3+ Boulder at Peñoles
beautiful, tall & slightly overhanging wall with crimps...~V3-4
Peñoles Boulder V3+ FA Red point
2014-01-02
2014-01-02
FA Red point
Barra de Pan
V5 Boulder at Peñoles
nice sit-start on huge hold, then side-crimps and under-cling, feet up and reachy move to a bad crimps, match, feet up really high and huge move to another crimp-rail, then mental top-out...~V5
Peñoles Boulder V5 FA Red point
2014-01-01
2014-01-01
Red point
La Ola
V4 Boulder at Peñoles
2nd try...awesome line through a wave-like wall. first crimpers then a jump to a jug!!! i thinks it's about V4
Peñoles Boulder V4 Red point
2014-01-01
2014-01-01
Red point
La Marmota
V5 Boulder at Peñoles
great, futuristic boulder up a mammut-looking bloc...many crimps and really balancy...about V5(+)
Peñoles Boulder V5 Red point
2014-01-01
2014-01-01
Red point
Invertido
V3+ Boulder at Peñoles
2nd try...vertical wall with under-clings...about V4
Peñoles Boulder V3+ Red point
2013-12-31
2013-12-31
Flash
Vibration
V2 Boulder at Peñoles
funny warm-up...don't know about the grade...about V2-3
Peñoles Boulder V2 Flash
2013-12-31
2013-12-31
Flash
Zepelin 1
V3 Boulder at Peñoles
great jugs to start, then crimps and techical top-out...about V3
Peñoles Boulder V3 Flash
2013-12-21
2013-12-21
On-sight
Nirvana
5.10d Sport at Presa Francisco Zarco
awesome long & sustainted route with lovely holds
Presa Francisco Zarco Sport 5.10d On-sight
2013-12-21
2013-12-21
Flash
Escorpion
5.9 Sport at Presa Francisco Zarco
perfect, long warm-up on perfect lime-stone
Presa Francisco Zarco Sport 5.9 Flash
2013-12-21
2013-12-21
Flash
Cuarto Mandala
5.11a Sport at Presa Francisco Zarco
nice vertical route with a complicated crux on tiny incut-limestone-crimps
Presa Francisco Zarco Sport 5.11a Flash
2013-10-27
2013-10-27
Red point
Billy Jean
V5 Boulder at
at least one boulder on my first visit of this awesome spot :)
Boulder V5 Red point
2013-10-08
2013-10-08
Red point
Göttertraverse
V5 Boulder at Mariensee
long move out of the roof + the long lip-traverse...without the sit-start of "entsafter" (which i nearly made on the same day)...nice birthday-session :)
Mariensee Boulder V5 Red point
2013-10-04
2013-10-04
Red point
Firestarter
V5+ Boulder at Kremstal
nice boulder through the middle of "aufwärmwandl"...sit start with nice warm-up movements up the first metres, then a crux on crimps
Kremstal Boulder V5+ Red point
2013-09-23
2013-09-23
FA Red point
El Doble-Techito Super-Extensión
awesome last session at C.U. for this summer. ripping the skin completeky off my hand & later with lots off tape finally sticking the last dyno of this great sustainted line. mayby FA?!?
Los techos de derecho - Ciudad Universitaria Boulder V7 FA Red point
2013-09-17
2013-09-17
Flash
El Queso
V3+ Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V3; beautiful bloc!!! nice moves on side-pinches and slopers
Peña de Bernal Boulder V3 (V3+) Flash
2013-09-17
2013-09-17
Red point
El Techo Noroccidental
V5+ Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V6; beautiful nice on the same bloc; just 10 min of work, nearly made a flash but failed at the technical top-out! nice ss on jug and side-slopper, reachy move to awesome sloper, heel-hook at the jug and match a tiny crimp...then some technical metres to top-out really high :)
Peña de Bernal Boulder V5+ Red point
2013-09-16
2013-09-16
Flash
Frankenstein
V3 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V3; nice vertical problem for warm-up
Peña de Bernal Boulder V3 Flash
2013-09-16
2013-09-16
Flash
Blade Runner
V3+ Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V4; nice line on sloppers, however the "cyborg"-boulder is better
Peña de Bernal Boulder V4 (V3+) Flash
2013-09-16
2013-09-16
Flash
El tren de la vida
V3+ Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V4; one hard move to take off, then really easy
Peña de Bernal Boulder V3+ Flash
2013-09-16
2013-09-16
Red point
El tendón de Aquiles
V6 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V7; my first V7 in bernal and this one in my opinion is more like 7B, especially because of the strange top-out...sit-start on good holds, then match to a double-crimp at your right, move your foot up high on your start-hold and block up with your left to a tiny, sharp side-crimp, match and big move with your right to a good crimp, match and get prepared for the top-out: another good crimp for your left, move your feet to the right, then a kind of bad pocket for your right hand from where you continue to the lip, move your feet and match the bad sloppers at the lip...then a real fight to mantle up :)
Peña de Bernal Boulder V7 (V6) Red point
2013-08-29
2013-08-29
Red point
Techo del Pumita (Traverse)
V6 Boulder at Pumita
(~V7); nice technical exit through the big roof using the wall at the right side
Pumita Boulder V6 Red point
2013-08-25
2013-08-25
Flash
La Viola
5.11c Sport at Guadalcazar
long, lovely & sustainted route with goes up 35 metres. the first half you climb overhanging stalactites to a good rest and then more vertical and technical climb on tufas up to the chains
Guadalcazar Sport 5.11c Flash
2013-08-24
2013-08-24
Red point
Tutantitan
5.12a Sport at Guadalcazar
steep, overhanging & pumpy climb on stalactites with a crux on perfect crimps at the end and a really hard position to clip the chains...at left entrance of Cueva San Cayetano/3rd try
Guadalcazar Sport 5.12a Red point
2013-08-24
2013-08-24
Flash
Lomo de Aligator
5.10d Sport at Guadalcazar
nice climb on tufas...short, funny and not too steep, actually the easiest route (the only 5.10) at Cueva de San Cayetano
Guadalcazar Sport 5.10d Flash
2013-08-15
2013-08-15
Red point
El Nicho
5.12a Sport at Jilotepec
2nd try (but should have been a flash)...nice short, overhanging route with a bouldery crux --> good sideholds plus a heelhook, then a huge move, then but your feet up and catch a tiny, bad crimp and from there a fast move to a good incut, then clip and keep it together to the chains.
Jilotepec Sport 5.12a Red point
2013-08-15
2013-08-15
On-sight
Escupe Vacas
5.10a Sport at Jilotepec
nice warm-up on great holds
Jilotepec Sport 5.10a On-sight
2013-08-15
2013-08-15
On-sight
Sal de mi
5.11a Sport at Jilotepec
awesome route...long and sustainted with one sweet crux where you have to crimp a small sidehold
Jilotepec Sport 5.11a On-sight
2013-08-09
2013-08-09
Red point
Learning to Fly
5.11c Sport at Los Remedios
nice warm-up climb about 20 meters up the beautiful arete, then a good rest to finally conquer the big roof with some huge bouldery moves
Los Remedios Sport 5.11c Red point
2013-08-09
2013-08-09
On-sight
Ying
5.10d Sport at Los Remedios
nice vertical slab with great pockets and 2 easy overhangs at the top
Los Remedios Sport 5.10d On-sight
2013-08-09
2013-08-09
On-sight
Cosma Shiva
5.11b Sport at Los Remedios
some hard moves on crimps and 1-finger-pockets, then good rest, again hard moves + good rest...and so on :)
Los Remedios Sport 5.11b On-sight
2013-08-07
2013-08-07
On-sight
Luna llena
nice corner
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 5.10c On-sight
2013-08-07
2013-08-07
On-sight
Trampa
scary climb up the first quick-draw...then keeping it together with a bad crimps and an undercling
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 5.11b On-sight
2013-08-07
2013-08-07
On-sight
Izquierda de Trampa
nice finger crack then crux with a bad crimp
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 5.11b On-sight
2013-08-07
2013-08-07
Red point
Izquierda de Valientes
crux up to the first quick-draw
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 5.10b (5.10d) Red point
2013-08-07
2013-08-07
Red point
Valientes
fiesta de crimps
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 5.11a (5.11b) Red point
2013-08-04
2013-08-04
Red point
Porcelain
V5+ Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V6; nice 45° overhanging shield, four hard moves on bad crimps and a hard dyno to catch the lip
Peña de Bernal Boulder V6 (V5+) Red point
2013-08-04
2013-08-04
Red point
Carenalga
V4 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V4; sloppers, undercling, sloppers
Peña de Bernal Boulder V4 Red point
2013-08-03
2013-08-03
Flash
Malaria
V4 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V4; nice vertical route on crimps with a scary top-out (without spot)
Peña de Bernal Boulder V4 Flash
2013-08-03
2013-08-03
Red point
Blue Apocalypse Sit
V5 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V5; sit-start of this slightly overhanging arete, adds to hard moves to get to the stand-start
Peña de Bernal Boulder V5 Red point
2013-08-03
2013-08-03
Flash
Dengue
V4+ Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V5; same start like "Malaria" but you go to the right with a bad, painful pocket
Peña de Bernal Boulder V4+ Flash
2013-08-03
2013-08-03
Flash
Plumas voladoras
V4 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V4; nice vertical bloc with big moves on good crimps
Peña de Bernal Boulder V4 Flash
2013-08-03
2013-08-03
Red point
I'm a cyborg, but it's ok
V5 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V5; hard moves on bad sloppers, reaaaaally technical
Peña de Bernal Boulder V5 Red point
2013-08-03
2013-08-03
Flash
Blue Apocalypse
V4 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V4; stand-start of this nice arete
Peña de Bernal Boulder V4 Flash
2013-08-02
2013-08-02
Flash
La Banca
V2 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V2; nice slab at "el rancho"
Peña de Bernal Boulder V2 Flash
2013-08-02
2013-08-02
Flash
Cansado de besar sapos
V1+ Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V1; another slab for warm-up with great holds
Peña de Bernal Boulder V1+ Flash
2013-08-02
2013-08-02
Red point
Orange Paradise
V4+ Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V5 (?); perfect overhanging arete with big moves on crimps
Peña de Bernal Boulder V4+ Red point
2013-08-02
2013-08-02
On-sight
La Sociedad Rangel
5.10a Sport at Peña de Bernal
5.10a; nice free-solo on this great route following a good crack up "el capitán calzón"
Peña de Bernal Sport 5.10a On-sight
2013-08-01
2013-08-01
Flash
Arrancando motores
V3+ Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V3; nice traverse for warm-up
Peña de Bernal Boulder V3+ Flash
2013-08-01
2013-08-01
Red point
Psicosomático
V5+ Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V6; perfect boulder-problem, start on a great undercling with heelhook, then to a bad crimp and two compression-moves to reach a pocket, after that move your feet and a balancy move to a bad crimp and continue to the good rail, from there a hard top-out on crimps
Peña de Bernal Boulder V5+ Red point
2013-08-01
2013-08-01
Flash
Sueños direct
V3+ Boulder at Peña de Bernal
V3; nice boulder for warm-up
Peña de Bernal Boulder V3+ Flash
2013-07-31
2013-07-31
Red point
Filo de la Escuelita
beautiful sloper-arete to slab up with your left hand...with your right you've got a painful, tiny crimps/crack
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Boulder V7 Red point
2013-07-28
2013-07-28
On-sight
Cyclope
5.10d Sport at Los Remedios
nice vertical climb on great holds...then a mental runout from the last bolt to the chains
Los Remedios Sport 5.10d On-sight
2013-07-09
2013-07-09
Red point
Panza
2nd try...a short, bouldery route just about 8 metres high...still it's got beautiful moves on crimps, under-clings, slopers and a huge dyno to a pocket-jug to leave the roof :)
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 5.12b Red point
2013-07-06
2013-07-06
Red point
Doble-Techito
...and again...i love it :)
Los techos de derecho - Ciudad Universitaria Boulder V7 Red point
2013-06-30
2013-06-30
Red point
Doble-Techito
just one of my all-time favorites :)
Los techos de derecho - Ciudad Universitaria Boulder V7 Red point
2013-06-29
2013-06-29
FA On-sight
La Cascada Pipi de Chipilin
5.10d Sport at Los Dinamos
my first 3 bolts in my life, thank's a lot urs for teaching me!!! nice, vertical warm-up-route at "La Cueva de Chipilin"/Cuarto y Medio Dinamo :)
Los Dinamos Sport 5.10d FA On-sight
2013-05-19
2013-05-19
Red point
Platte
V4 Boulder at Kremstal
nice little slab on the way down to INRI
Kremstal Boulder V4 Red point
2013-05-19
2013-05-19
Red point
Mission for Man
V4+ Boulder at Kremstal
climbing up the arch of the INRI-cave
Kremstal Boulder V4+ Red point
2013-05-17
2013-05-17
Red point
Dreimal ums Kreuz
V7 Boulder at Mariensee
really hard morpho-move on tiny crimps to another crimp...i probably tried this move a hundred times
Mariensee Boulder V7 Red point
2013-05-07
2013-05-07
Red point
Blocco 7, G
V2 Boulder at Val Di Mello
6b for the sit-start is really hard...
Val Di Mello Boulder V4 (V2) Red point
2013-05-07
2013-05-07
Red point
Il Francese
V4+ Boulder at Val Di Mello
hard moves on crimps plus a crux-move to catch the sloppy edge of the boulder
Val Di Mello Boulder V5 (V4+) Red point
2013-05-06
2013-05-06
Flash
Mantle
V3+ Boulder at Val Di Mello
easy funny mantle
Val Di Mello Boulder V3+ Flash
2013-05-06
2013-05-06
Flash
Platte
V2 Boulder at Val Di Mello
nice slab
Val Di Mello Boulder V2 Flash
2013-05-03
2013-05-03
Red point
Sfinge
V5+ Boulder at Bagni di Masino
hard moves at the beginning and a funny mantle
Bagni di Masino Boulder V5 (V5+) Red point
2013-05-02
2013-05-02
Red point
Blocco 7, A
V3+ Boulder at Val Di Mello
easy start with from crimps to jug then the hard mantle at the left side
Val Di Mello Boulder V4 (V3+) Red point
2013-05-02
2013-05-02
Flash
Il Tendino dello Yeti
V1+ Boulder at Val Masino
nice line along a juggy crack
Val Masino Boulder V1+ Flash
2013-04-17
2013-04-17
Red point
Bachbettblockboulder
V4+ Boulder at Mariensee
first you climb through a overhango on some good slopers, then a nice move to the edge and catch a crimp for mantle
Mariensee Boulder V4+ Red point
2013-04-04
2013-04-04
Flash
Nr. 28e
V3+ Boulder at Drei Zinnen
funny wall with good holds
Drei Zinnen Boulder V3+ Flash
2013-04-04
2013-04-04
Flash
L'Étoile Rouge
V2 Boulder at Drei Zinnen
overhanging boulder with good holds
Drei Zinnen Boulder V2 Flash
2013-04-03
2013-04-03
Flash
La Nano
V2 Boulder at Cul de Chien
hard boulder for the grade up the arete on "toit du cul de chien"
Cul de Chien Boulder V3 (V2) Flash
2013-04-03
2013-04-03
Flash
La Goulotte
V2 Boulder at 91.1
funny little problem, like always with a hard mantle
91.1 Boulder V2 Flash
2013-04-03
2013-04-03
Red point
Le Toit du Cul de Chien
V5+ Boulder at Cul de Chien
just an all-time-classic...strange move with a heel-hook to reach from 2-finger-pocket to 3-finger-pocket on the edge of the roof, the DYYYYNO :)
Cul de Chien Boulder V6 (V5+) Red point
2013-04-03
2013-04-03
Red point
Le Flipper
V3+ Boulder at 91.1
awesome arete
91.1 Boulder V3+ Red point
2013-04-02
2013-04-02
Red point
Le Surplomb de l'Éléphant
V2 Boulder at Éléphant
hard first move to a sidepull, putting your feet up high and climb up the elephant
Éléphant Boulder V3 (V2) Red point
2013-04-02
2013-04-02
Red point
L'Y
V2 Boulder at Éléphant
nice route up the elephant (nr.2 black) using slopers with your right hand and sideholds with your left
Éléphant Boulder V3 (V2) Red point
2013-04-02
2013-04-02
Flash
Les Bossettes du Lépreux
V2 Boulder at Éléphant
nice little mantle-problem
Éléphant Boulder V2 Flash
2013-04-02
2013-04-02
Red point
Le Surplomb du Lépreux
V2 Boulder at Éléphant
perfect route up the "lépreux"...using an undercling to reach some slopers
Éléphant Boulder V3 (V2) Red point
2013-04-02
2013-04-02
Red point
La Voie Michaud
V4+ Boulder at Éléphant
hard dead-point-move to reach a bad side-crimps, then unstable hook to finish it up on jugs
Éléphant Boulder V5 (V4+) Red point
2013-04-02
2013-04-02
Flash
La Moreau
V2 Boulder at Éléphant
climbing up some nice cracks
Éléphant Boulder V3 (V2) Flash
2013-04-01
2013-04-01
Flash
L'Incommode, White 30
V2 Boulder at Franchard Isatis
big move to a sloper, then a good hook to mantle up
Franchard Isatis Boulder V2 Flash
2013-04-01
2013-04-01
Red point
Le Faux Baquet
V5+ Boulder at Franchard Isatis
good roof with beautiful pockets and some crimps to mantle up
Franchard Isatis Boulder V5+ Red point
2013-03-31
2013-03-31
Flash
Chapeau Chinois
V3+ Boulder at Roche aux Sabots
nice overhanging prow with compression-moves on slopers and crimps
Roche aux Sabots Boulder V3+ Flash
2013-03-31
2013-03-31
Red point
Le Mandarin sans convention
V7 Boulder at Roche aux Oiseaux
nice sit-start from a good hold to bad slopers, then hook and finish through a crack/pinch
Roche aux Oiseaux Boulder V7 Red point
2013-03-31
2013-03-31
Red point
L'Anar Chronique 
V5+ Boulder at Roche aux Oiseaux
nice little roof with crimps and pockets
Roche aux Oiseaux Boulder V5+ Red point
2013-03-21
2013-03-21
Red point
Umspannwerk
V5+ Boulder at Merkenstein
same start like "uga-aga-iga" but then you make a big move to the undercling of "t-61" and traverse right to the start of "swing".
Merkenstein Boulder V5+ Red point
2013-03-08
2013-03-08
Red point
Tiefer Sitzstart
V6 Boulder at Kremstal
crazy deep sit-start with an akeward hook which makes posible all the movements
Kremstal Boulder V6 Red point
2013-03-04
2013-03-04
Red point
Rechts
V5+ Boulder at Fickerplatzl
nice boulder at the right side of the small cave...nice movements with crimps, hooks and a crazy 2-finger-pocket at the end...my first boulder at Fickerplatzl :)
Fickerplatzl Boulder V5+ Red point
2013-03-04
2013-03-04
Flash
Aufwärmer
V4+ Boulder at Fickerplatzl
nice horizontal roof with good big moves on nice holds
Fickerplatzl Boulder V4+ Flash
2013-02-26
2013-02-26
Red point
El Penitente
chingónnn, just an amazing route...my mexican project at my 4th session in "la cueva" finally came to an end!!! first you start through a funny overhang with beautiful sustained moves for the first 4 quickdraws trying not to get pumped...and then starts the crux-section for the next 2 quick-draw with some huge horizontal movements where you have to keep it together and make all kind of wired hooks, finally at the end you have to push really hard along a steep crack up to the chains, screaming included :)
El Arenal - La Cueva Del Penitente Sport 5.12c Red point
2013-02-21
2013-02-21
Red point
Juan Rojas
V6 Boulder at Pumita
niiiice overhanging prow at the Pumita...you sit-start with a flake and get an undercling, then reachy move to a bad crimp, toe-hook on the starting-flake, matching another crimp...then getting ready for a dyno to another crimp followed by another dyno & a campus-move...(actually i don't know name or grade, it's just my guess)...however a great boulder, nice gym-style :)
Pumita Boulder V6 Red point
2013-02-20
2013-02-20
On-sight
Secuencia Inicial
5.10c Sport at Los Remedios
one of the most beautiful pocket-routes!!! long and sustained, really fun!!!
Los Remedios Sport 5.10c On-sight
2013-02-20
2013-02-20
On-sight
Trinity
5.10c Sport at Los Remedios
nice little slab for warm-up...jaja route no.1 in the guide-book
Los Remedios Sport 5.10c On-sight
2013-02-20
2013-02-20
Red point
La Quimera
5.11c Sport at Los Remedios
nice little overhang at the start, then nice slab-climbing and a technical finish up to the chains (with quite bad rock, so cat-mode!!!)
Los Remedios Sport 5.11c Red point
2013-02-20
2013-02-20
On-sight
Rayando el Sol
5.10d Sport at Los Remedios
great start with huge jugs...then the crux along a crimp-rail and some pockets
Los Remedios Sport 5.10d On-sight
2013-02-12
2013-02-12
FA Red point
Orale Clarita, a la Chingada!!!
my test-peace-traverse at the boulder-wall of C.U....absolutely defined, hard stuff for me because really long, technical and pumpy until the end!!! jaja, so mayby a dumb-first-ascent ;)
Los techos de derecho - Ciudad Universitaria Boulder V6 FA Red point
2013-02-05
2013-02-05
Flash
El abuelo
V3 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
sharp crimps up a steep wall
Peña de Bernal Boulder V3 Flash
2013-02-05
2013-02-05
Red point
El noruego
V4 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
the same like "abuelo", just sharper crimps :)
Peña de Bernal Boulder V4 Red point
2013-02-05
2013-02-05
Red point
Bipolar
V5 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
nice roof-climbing on great holds with a technical finish up a awesome prow
Peña de Bernal Boulder V5 Red point
2013-02-05
2013-02-05
Flash
Cripe aviar
V3+ Boulder at Peña de Bernal
nice warm-up in the morning at 8 o'clock
Peña de Bernal Boulder V3+ Flash
2013-02-04
2013-02-04
Red point
Shotgun
V5 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
easy traverse on great holds with pumpy finish straight up in the center of the boulder...next time psyched for "RPG" V7
Peña de Bernal Boulder V5 Red point
2013-02-04
2013-02-04
Flash
El Novato
V2 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
nice corner for warm-up
Peña de Bernal Boulder V2 Flash
2013-02-04
2013-02-04
Flash
Lado obscuro del corazón
V4 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
nice arete with a bad crimp for your right-hand and a high heel-hook to catch the lip of the boulder
Peña de Bernal Boulder V4 Flash
2013-02-04
2013-02-04
Flash
La Ola
V4 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
my first boulder at Peña de Bernal...nice technical high-ball slab for warm-up...though it's quite scary without crash-pad
Peña de Bernal Boulder V4 Flash
2013-02-04
2013-02-04
Flash
Tetris
V4+ Boulder at Peña de Bernal
funny little roof with a nice cross-move with a heel-hook...the place where i slept one night ;)
Peña de Bernal Boulder V4+ Flash
2013-02-04
2013-02-04
Flash
Día D
V3 Boulder at Peña de Bernal
perfect slightly overhanging wall with nice crimps and a reachy crux-move...would hurt quite a lot if you fall there
Peña de Bernal Boulder V3 Flash
2013-01-27
2013-01-27
Red point
Desconocido
nice short route at the entrance of "the cave"...technical climbing on crimps and pocket with the crux right before the chains...2nd try (however i have to confess that i grapped the chains for clipping)...
El Arenal - La Cueva Del Penitente Sport 5.12a Red point
2013-01-24
2013-01-24
On-sight
El Chauhuistle
5.11b Sport at Jilotepec
same start like "el chaneque" but easier finish
Jilotepec Sport 5.11b On-sight
2013-01-24
2013-01-24
On-sight
El Pilar
5.10a Sport at Jilotepec
soloing a nice chimney to get on the top of the spire (el pilar)...niiice view of the Peñas de Dexcani from above :)
Jilotepec Sport 5.10a On-sight
2013-01-24
2013-01-24
Red point
El Chaneque
5.12a Sport at Jilotepec
one of the BEST routes in Jilo...4th try...starts with a cool V3-boulder to the first quick-draw, followed by a no-hand-rest on a ledge. then you climb up a steep, slightly overhanging dark wall with nobs until you get to a huge rail (actually this is a huuuge embedded pebble). from here starts the crux (aprox. a V4-boulder) where you have to crimp hard, put your foot up high and continiue crimping up to the next good rail. then just keeping it together with awesome slab-climbing on nobs to the chains...a masterpiece (i would give more than 3 stars)...now syced for "El Nahual"!!!
Jilotepec Sport 5.12a Red point
2013-01-09
2013-01-09
Red point
Crimpeando a muerte
in the center of the traverse-wall...you start in the little roof, climb to the arete and then go left up the really small crimps
Los techos de derecho - Ciudad Universitaria Boulder V5 Red point
2013-01-09
2013-01-09
Red point
El doble-techito ligero
the easier variation to climb both roofs...got a little bit harder because of a broken hold
Los techos de derecho - Ciudad Universitaria Boulder V5 Red point
2013-01-09
2013-01-09
Red point
El techito central
nice little variation through the centrer of the roof, without using the big jug...from an under-cling you reach a crimps, then feet up high + a toe-hook, match another crimp and take off for a dyno to the edge...then a strange mantle for the direct exit
Los techos de derecho - Ciudad Universitaria Boulder V4 Red point
2013-01-09
2013-01-09
Flash
El techito con la regleta
my warmup at c.u....dinaaaamico :) again you match the biiiig jug & then directly a dyno with your right hand to on of the crimps...then campus and mantle
Los techos de derecho - Ciudad Universitaria Boulder V3+ Flash
2013-01-09
2013-01-09
Flash
El techito con el hoyo
my warm-up at c.u....taaan bueno...ya lo hize mil veces :) a classic on c.u...you match the jug, put your foot on the wall and pump up to a great pocket...then dyno or whatever to mantle up....
Los techos de derecho - Ciudad Universitaria Boulder V3 Flash
2013-01-07
2013-01-07
Red point
Elmo
5.12a Sport at Los Dinamos
THE line at 1° Dinamo, an amazing route through the big roof...little bouldery start with a tricky mantle, then a good rest before you climb up a roof-crack and finish with some great big movements to the chains...2nd go, could have flashed it without 2 weeks of pause before, haha ;)
Los Dinamos Sport 5.12a Red point
2012-12-15
2012-12-15
Red point
Super Trosis
5.12b Sport at Los Dinamos
perfect short boulder-route...easy overhanging- climbing up the first 3 quick-draws and then starts the action: cross to a good crimp and match another crimp with you left hand, move your foots up high and make a heel-hook in a hole, then a big move with your right to a bad crimp, match a 2-finger-side-crimp with your left hand, remove the hook and make a short dead-point move with right to the good crimp, then clip the 4th quick-draw and just keeping it together to the top :) unfortunately the first 2 bolt are very bad (never felt there, but i'm gonna change them), but the 3rd bolt where you have your whippers is ok!
Los Dinamos Sport 5.12b Red point
2012-12-13
2012-12-13
Flash
Subete si quieres
nice little warm-up route at this impressive huge cave...now psyched for "Trauma" 5.13a
El Arenal - La Cueva Del Penitente Sport 5.11a Flash
2012-12-08
2012-12-08
Red point
Kilowatito (versión chimenea)
5.10c Traditional at Los Dinamos
first you climb a slam roof with a finger-crack, then easily up to an awesome steep hand-crack...but if you don't carry the correct gear you have to change left and climb a horrible chimney up to the anker :)
Los Dinamos Traditional 5.11a (5.10c) Red point
2012-12-08
2012-12-08
On-sight
Hormigas
5.10c Traditional at Los Dinamos
nice long trad-route, actually did the first 2 pitches together...first pitch you climb a perfect paralello-hand-crack to a platform...then follow a finger-crack which you can climb like a chimney with the help of a big flake...then another platform and you fight up the last metres through an anyoning off-width :)
Los Dinamos Traditional 5.10d (5.10c) On-sight
2012-11-29
2012-11-29
Red point
Dias de Trueno
5.11c Sport at Los Dinamos
the line which first catches the eye at Primer Dinamo...a big roof with nice movements on good holds...haha, unfortunately just 2nd go...had a big fail at my flash-try falling just under the anker, getting pumped & not seeing anything because of the sun)...100% kremstal-style ;)
Los Dinamos Sport 5.11c Red point
2012-11-29
2012-11-29
On-sight
Lagartijas
5.11b Sport at Los Dinamos
scary start...then a bit of endurance at the slab
Los Dinamos Sport 5.11b On-sight
2012-11-20
2012-11-20
On-sight
Escorpiojos
5.11c Sport at Los Dinamos
quite hard boulder up the first bolt...then following up the crack is just a dream...did it 2 times :)
Los Dinamos Sport 5.11c On-sight
2012-11-20
2012-11-20
On-sight
Alas de Estrella
5.11a Sport at Los Dinamos
nice little route with a funny boulder-start and another little overhang below the anker
Los Dinamos Sport 5.11a On-sight
2012-11-11
2012-11-11
On-sight
El Alacrán
5.10d Sport at Jilotepec
nice complicated start up the first 3 quick-draws...then relaxed climbing
Jilotepec Sport 5.10d On-sight
2012-11-11
2012-11-11
Red point
Pipetaputo
5.11c Sport at Jilotepec
2nd try...technical steep slab-climbing with great crimps
Jilotepec Sport 5.11c Red point
2012-11-04
2012-11-04
Red point
Valientes
2nd try...nice technical slab with bad crimps and a dynmic move
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 5.11b Red point
2012-11-04
2012-11-04
Red point
Otro Techo
2nd try...the roof some metres to the right of "Valientes"...some funny moves up a corner-crack followed by some campusing along the roof :)
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 5.11b Red point
2012-11-04
2012-11-04
Flash
Izquierda de Valientes
nice little route with a funny crux at the beginning...some metres left of "Valientes"
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 5.10d Flash
2012-11-03
2012-11-03
Red point
Doble-Techito
my creation at the boulder-wall on c.u., mayby a FA... CHINGÒNNNNNNN!!! check out the vid: https://vimeo.com/52882378
Los techos de derecho - Ciudad Universitaria Boulder V7 Red point
2012-10-20
2012-10-20
On-sight
Nido de Ardillas
5.10d Sport at Jilotepec
nice long route on great conglomerate-rock with funny holds & good rests
Jilotepec Sport 5.10d On-sight
2012-10-20
2012-10-20
Red point
Gula
5.11c Sport at Jilotepec
2nd try, nearly could have done an on-sight. incredible vertical-slightly overhanging route with sharp crimps
Jilotepec Sport 5.11c Red point
2012-10-20
2012-10-20
On-sight
El hombre del costal
5.11c Sport at Jilotepec
boulder-start to the first quick-draw followed by technical slab-climbing
Jilotepec Sport 5.11c On-sight
2012-10-16
2012-10-16
Flash
El Techito (izquierda)
the left variation of this beautiful roof...pretty much the same difficulty like the right-one & equally beautiful
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 5.11a (5.10d) Flash
2012-10-16
2012-10-16
Red point
El Techito
another go on this incredible short-route
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 5.11a (5.10d) Red point
2012-09-23
2012-09-23
Red point
El Aliado
5.11b Sport at Hoyanco Chonta
crazy route...25 metres through overhanging stalactites. had a really good on-sight-go to the last quick-draw, but sent it the next day easily :)
Hoyanco Chonta Sport 5.11b Red point
2012-09-22
2012-09-22
Flash
Kalimán
5.10c Sport at Hoyanco Chonta
the only vertical and easy route at "La Chonta"...fine crux at beginning on slopers followed by a really long route
Hoyanco Chonta Sport 5.10c Flash
2012-09-07
2012-09-07
On-sight
Ruta 2
5.10b Traditional at Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo
another nice doble-crack
Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo Traditional 5.10b On-sight
2012-09-07
2012-09-07
On-sight
Ruta 3
5.10c Traditional at Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo
great route with some metre on a fingercrack
Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo Traditional 5.10c On-sight
2012-09-07
2012-09-07
On-sight
Ruta 4
5.10d Traditional at Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo
tecnical start on a slab (not easy to protect) followed by crack & chimney climbing
Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo Traditional 5.10d On-sight
2012-09-07
2012-09-07
On-sight
Ruta 1
5.10c Traditional at Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo
nice crack climbing and a really long pitch...we had to improvise the rappel with our 50m-rope to gain the ground
Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo Traditional 5.10c On-sight
2012-09-06
2012-09-06
Red point
Highball-Arete
great route on the sportclimbing-wall of C.U. some really hard moves up to a jug followed by easy but high moves to gain the top of the cliff (aprox. 10 metres)
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Boulder V6 Red point
2012-08-25
2012-08-25
On-sight
???
5.10c Sport at Los Dinamos
long route up a slab
Los Dinamos Sport 5.10c On-sight
2012-08-25
2012-08-25
On-sight
???
5.10b Sport at Los Dinamos
nice route on a exposed pillar
Los Dinamos Sport 5.10b On-sight
2012-08-05
2012-08-05
On-sight
Monodedo
don't know the name of the route yet. nice slap with perfect crimps & pockets, at the crux you have to pull on a one-finger-pocket :)
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 5.10c On-sight
2012-08-05
2012-08-05
On-sight
Esquina
don't know the name of the route yet. nice technical slab to gain a beautiful corner...
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 5.10b On-sight
2012-08-05
2012-08-05
On-sight
El Techito
just an awesome route through an impressive roof...easy start, then with an undercling and a sloper you catch the edge of the roof and make some (campus)-moves to the top...really boulder-like & looks much harder than the grade :)
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 5.10d On-sight
2012-06-11
2012-06-11
On-sight
Schölli
5.10b Sport at Zigeunerloch
easy warm-up, my first climb at beautiful zigeunerloch...failed later trying to flash "mini-cooper" during rain ;)
Zigeunerloch Sport 5.10b On-sight
2012-05-31
2012-05-31
Red point
Distance
V5+ Boulder at Kaseler Alm
horrible morpho-move, really started to hate this move...used a bad, but closer crimp to make it, thus a good end of the trip finally :)
Kaseler Alm Boulder V6 (V5+) Red point
2012-05-30
2012-05-30
Red point
Richis Luder
V3+ Boulder at Sundergrund
great traverse at Sundergrund
Sundergrund Boulder V3+ Red point
2012-05-30
2012-05-30
Flash
Sunstorm
V1+ Boulder at Sundergrund
beautiful arete on the "moonwalk-boulder"...did it to avoid frustration after "moonwalk" ;)
Sundergrund Boulder V1+ Flash
2012-05-29
2012-05-29
Red point
Geas links
V3+ Boulder at Ginzling Wald
strange dyno (?)
Ginzling Wald Boulder V3+ Red point
2012-05-29
2012-05-29
Flash
Geas rechts
V3 Boulder at Ginzling Wald
cool warm-up
Ginzling Wald Boulder V3 Flash
2012-05-29
2012-05-29
Flash
Leg di eichn
V4 Boulder at Ginzling Wald
beautiful arete
Ginzling Wald Boulder V4 Flash
2012-05-29
2012-05-29
Red point
Bambi
V5 Boulder at Ginzling Wald
nice compression moves up the arete...some wet holds ;)
Ginzling Wald Boulder V5 Red point
2012-05-29
2012-05-29
Red point
Zuzäpfn Lisal
V5 Boulder at Ginzling Wald
strange but funny boulder...did it with a dyno (cheating?)
Ginzling Wald Boulder V5 Red point
2012-05-28
2012-05-28
Flash
Edelweiss
V3+ Boulder at Kaseler Alm
beautiful & scary (if you do it alone with one small crashpad) arete right beside the river
Kaseler Alm Boulder V3+ Flash
2012-05-28
2012-05-28
Red point
Außa fun Loch 3
V3+ Boulder at Kaseler Alm
though mantle
Kaseler Alm Boulder V4+ (V3+) Red point
2012-05-28
2012-05-28
Red point
Quality Street
V6 Boulder at Kaseler Alm
athletic moves at the start followed by a scary mantle
Kaseler Alm Boulder V6 Red point
2012-05-28
2012-05-28
Flash
Via Lisa
5.10a Traditional at Ewige Jagdgründe
nice long route (30m) with many many cracks up the "Wig"...clean climbing again :)
Ewige Jagdgründe Traditional 5.10a Flash
2012-05-28
2012-05-28
Flash
Streamer
5.10c Traditional at Ewige Jagdgründe
nice paralello-crack climbed with 2 friends...unfortunately bolted & just 10m high ;)
Ewige Jagdgründe Traditional 5.10a (5.10c) Flash
2012-05-27
2012-05-27
Flash
Das Auge des Waldes
V4 Boulder at Breitlahner, Zillertal
perfect line on perfect bloc
Breitlahner, Zillertal Boulder V4 Flash
2012-05-27
2012-05-27
Flash
Schmetterlingsplatte
V3+ Boulder at Klausenalm
beautiful slab at Klausenalm...felt like the Flexmäuerchen in an alpine setting ;)
Klausenalm Boulder V3 (V3+) Flash
2012-05-27
2012-05-27
Flash
Nice
V2 Boulder at Breitlahner, Zillertal
straight-up on crimps
Breitlahner, Zillertal Boulder V3 (V2) Flash
2012-05-27
2012-05-27
Red point
Down by Law
V4+ Boulder at Klausenalm
great line with a technical traverse and a final dyno
Klausenalm Boulder V5 (V4+) Red point
2012-05-27
2012-05-27
Red point
Pies de Gatto
V7 Boulder at Breitlahner, Zillertal
beautiful & high arete with sustainted moves...on the same bloc like "Auge des Waldes"
Breitlahner, Zillertal Boulder V7 Red point
2012-05-27
2012-05-27
Flash
Phase Vier
V3+ Boulder at Klausenalm
nice line on jugs
Klausenalm Boulder V3+ Flash
2012-05-26
2012-05-26
Flash
Reini
V3+ Boulder at Klausenalm
easy warm-up
Klausenalm Boulder V3 (V3+) Flash
2012-05-26
2012-05-26
Flash
Virtuosi
V4+ Boulder at Klausenalm
up on a slopy arete with a final move
Klausenalm Boulder V4 (V4+) Flash
2012-05-26
2012-05-26
Flash
Orange Utan
V4+ Boulder at Klausenalm
nice traverse with high mantle
Klausenalm Boulder V4 (V4+) Flash
2012-05-26
2012-05-26
Red point
Bleeding Roses
V4 Boulder at Klausenalm
the right arete on the bloc "fix und foxi"
Klausenalm Boulder V4 Red point
2012-05-25
2012-05-25
Red point
Schloss Mentlberg
V5+ Boulder at Kaseler Alm
some moves to get to a sloper-traverse, then funny mantle
Kaseler Alm Boulder V5+ Red point
2012-05-25
2012-05-25
Flash
S'Knatl
V3+ Boulder at Kaseler Alm
small arete...climbed in the dark ;)
Kaseler Alm Boulder V3+ Flash
2012-05-04
2012-05-04
Flash
Cubo Magico
V3 Boulder at Val Di Mello
funny boulder with juuugs. at blocco 4 "Elettronvolt" at sector Melloblocco
Val Di Mello Boulder V3 Flash
2012-05-04
2012-05-04
Red point
Linea G
V3 Boulder at Val Masino
2nd try. beautiful line up a good crack. at "Masso dell'Entalpia" at sector Tarzan
Val Masino Boulder V3 Red point
2012-05-04
2012-05-04
Red point
Linea B - Arete - Standstart
V4 Boulder at Val Di Mello
the huge, beautiful arete at "Masso della Grotta" in sector Propietà Privata. Did the standstart and got really close at the sitstart (hard 7a)
Val Di Mello Boulder V4 Red point
2012-05-04
2012-05-04
Red point
Il Vento - Standstart
V4+ Boulder at Val Di Mello
straight-up line on crimps at "Masso della Grotta". the sit start is 8a.
Val Di Mello Boulder V4+ Red point
2012-05-04
2012-05-04
Flash
Linea F
V2 Boulder at Val Di Mello
slab with mantle at blocco 4 "Elettronvolt" at sector Melloblocco
Val Di Mello Boulder V2 Flash
2012-05-04
2012-05-04
Red point
Il Diedrino
V5 Boulder at Val Masino
my absolute favorite at Val Masino. at "Masso dell'Entalpia" at sector Tarzan
Val Masino Boulder V5 Red point
2012-05-03
2012-05-03
Red point
Linea A - Arete
V5+ Boulder at Val Di Mello
overhanging arete with slopers and a complicated mantle at blocco 2 "Ul Mustru" at sector Il Mostro/Val di Mello
Val Di Mello Boulder V5+ Red point
2012-05-03
2012-05-03
Red point
Linea B
V3+ Boulder at Val Masino
funny little boulder near the river at sector Visido
Val Masino Boulder V3+ Red point
2012-05-02
2012-05-02
Red point
Bidone
V5 Boulder at Val Masino
great line with flake, crimp & slopers at Sasso Piatto (Parkplatzblock) at sector Remenno
Val Masino Boulder V5 Red point
2012-05-02
2012-05-02
Red point
Il Lancio
V5+ Boulder at Val Di Mello
just my favorite dyno in the world
Val Di Mello Boulder V5+ Red point
2012-04-20
2012-04-20
On-sight
Napalm in the morning
5.10c Sport at Gretlwandl
again pooockets
Gretlwandl Sport 5.10c On-sight
2012-04-20
2012-04-20
Flash
Weirdcong
5.10d Sport at Gretlwandl
tall moves on good pockets
Gretlwandl Sport 5.10d Flash
2012-04-20
2012-04-20
On-sight
Herbsthorst
5.10c Sport at Gretlwandl
nice long route up a flake + pockets ;)
Gretlwandl Sport 5.10c On-sight
2012-04-20
2012-04-20
Flash
Rasluka
5.10b Sport at Gretlwandl
long route on pockets
Gretlwandl Sport 5.10b Flash
2012-04-20
2012-04-20
On-sight
Runenzauber
5.10c Sport at Gretlwandl
long steep route on pockets
Gretlwandl Sport 5.10c On-sight
2012-04-20
2012-04-20
Flash
M 16
5.10b Sport at Gretlwandl
nice wall with pooockets
Gretlwandl Sport 5.10b Flash
2012-04-19
2012-04-19
Red point
N.N.
V6 Boulder at Kremstal
nice technical wall at (what we call) "Dunkle Seite"...start on slopers, take the sideslopers, make a kneebar and stand up on bad side-crimps, then catch the good holds in the little roof and do the scary mantle...
Kremstal Boulder V6 Red point
2012-04-19
2012-04-19
Red point
N.N.
V4+ Boulder at Kremstal
through a cave and mantle on a mossy high slab...on the boulder with the huge arete at "Dunkle Seite"
Kremstal Boulder V4+ Red point
2012-04-19
2012-04-19
Red point
N.N.
V2 Boulder at Kremstal
strange mantle at the strange bloc opposite off the "Ufo-Boulder"
Kremstal Boulder V2 Red point
2012-04-18
2012-04-18
Flash
Personalbesprechung
V3 Boulder at Merkenstein
already climbed it years ago, nice line through a small roof.
Merkenstein Boulder V3 Flash
2012-04-18
2012-04-18
Flash
Steinstark
V1+ Boulder at Merkenstein
really nice boulder with good holds
Merkenstein Boulder V1+ Flash
2012-04-18
2012-04-18
Red point
Spuldisung
V4+ Boulder at Merkenstein
Standstart. hard technical climbing, the sitstart (6c+) felt much much harder
Merkenstein Boulder V4+ Red point
2012-04-16
2012-04-16
Red point
Base Jumper
V5 Boulder at Merkenstein
huge moves on good holds...failed a few times on the last move & got very angry, ugly rainy day ;)
Merkenstein Boulder V5 Red point
2012-04-13
2012-04-13
Red point
Judas
V5+ Boulder at Das Gegenüber
nice overhang with bleau-like holds and a dyno...don't know if i climbed the boulder correctly, it felt quite easy
Das Gegenüber Boulder V4+ (V5+) Red point
2012-04-12
2012-04-12
Red point
N.N.
V5+ Boulder at St. Radegund
the boulder left of "Jonny Hill"...really really sharp holds but good climb though
St. Radegund Boulder V5+ Red point
2012-04-12
2012-04-12
Red point
"6b"
V5 Boulder at St. Radegund
a classic!!! supposed to be the 1st boulder on Straßenblock...nice moves with heel-hook followed by a dyno
St. Radegund Boulder V5 Red point
2012-04-11
2012-04-11
Red point
Geierwally
5.11a Sport at Maltatal
beautiful sustainted route with amazing rock...
Maltatal Sport 5.11a Red point
2012-04-10
2012-04-10
Red point
Jeder wie er will
5.10d Sport at Maltatal
nice & short route...using the new rope for the first time
Maltatal Sport 5.10d Red point
2012-04-10
2012-04-10
Red point
Unknown
V4+ Boulder at Maltatal
nice bloc some metres left of "Querdenken"...don't know the name
Maltatal Boulder V4+ Red point
2012-04-10
2012-04-10
Red point
The unforgettable Fire
V4+ Boulder at Maltatal
cool moves on painful holds :)
Maltatal Boulder V4+ Red point
2012-04-09
2012-04-09
Red point
Kante
V4+ Boulder at Mixnitz
nice arete...next time the dyno-problem to the left
Mixnitz Boulder V4+ Red point
2012-04-09
2012-04-09
Flash
Platte
V1 Boulder at Mixnitz
nice slab
Mixnitz Boulder V1 Flash
2012-04-05
2012-04-05
Red point
Traverse nach Rechts
V6 Boulder at St. Radegund
nice traverse at "Straßenblock" with a final crimpy boulder :)
St. Radegund Boulder V6 Red point
2012-02-26
2012-02-26
Red point
Aufwärmer
V5+ Boulder at Waldstein
not really a boulder which everyone should do as a warm-up like the name suggest ;) painfull holds but good moves though. Yeah, my first boulder @ Waldstein!!!
Waldstein Boulder V5+ Red point
2012-02-13
2012-02-13
Red point
Gollum
V4+ Boulder at Albarracin
nice hooking-moves on sloper and pocket
Albarracin Boulder V4+ Red point
2012-02-13
2012-02-13
FA Red point
La Fuerza de las Manitas de Cerdo
V4 Boulder at Albarracin
cool bloc on the way to "Tierra Media"...just had to make a FA to honor my delicious meal from the day before ;)
Albarracin Boulder V4 FA Red point
2012-02-13
2012-02-13
Red point
Sin Cordura
V5+ Boulder at Albarracin
last boulder of the trip...nice first moves and sandy top-out
Albarracin Boulder V5+ Red point
2012-02-12
2012-02-12
Red point
la Jira
V3+ Boulder at Albarracin
dead-point moves on painful crimps
Albarracin Boulder V3+ Red point
2012-02-12
2012-02-12
Red point
Crazy Start
V5+ Boulder at Albarracin
cool moves up the prow followed by a though mantle...my hardest top-out at the trip
Albarracin Boulder V5+ Red point
2012-02-12
2012-02-12
Red point
Spider pig
V5 Boulder at Albarracin
three time beating the slopers followed by a funny dyno
Albarracin Boulder V5 Red point
2012-02-11
2012-02-11
Flash
Saruman
V7 Boulder at Albarracin
soft or just my style? first move to an undercling, then with a heel-hook to a bad crimp and quickly to the better sidehold...thanks for the beta Tom...my first 7b flash :)
Albarracin Boulder V7 Flash
2012-02-11
2012-02-11
Flash
Gandalf
V3 Boulder at Albarracin
nice dyno & hard mantle...at the "murciélago-roof"
Albarracin Boulder V3 Flash
2012-02-11
2012-02-11
Red point
La Playa
V5+ Boulder at Albarracin
great moves through a roof followed by sandy, but beautiful prow...2nd try
Albarracin Boulder V5+ Red point
2012-02-11
2012-02-11
Flash
El Pelele
V3+ Boulder at Albarracin
nice warm-up
Albarracin Boulder V3+ Flash
2012-02-11
2012-02-11
Red point
Gondor
V6 Boulder at Albarracin
nice moves from to a sloper and then to bad crimps
Albarracin Boulder V6 Red point
2012-02-11
2012-02-11
Red point
Éomer
V5+ Boulder at Albarracin
great dyno!!!
Albarracin Boulder V5+ Red point
2012-02-10
2012-02-10
Red point
Amor
V5+ Boulder at Albarracin
the combination of "Arco Iris" & "Cristal"...quite an endurance problem for me...at the first 2 tries i failed at the very last move, then finally did it in the dark
Albarracin Boulder V5+ Red point
2012-02-10
2012-02-10
Red point
Sensación
V5+ Boulder at Albarracin
nice line through a roof with the same funny finish like "Arco Iris"
Albarracin Boulder V5+ Red point
2012-02-10
2012-02-10
Flash
Entrega
V3 Boulder at Albarracin
nice highball on crimps
Albarracin Boulder V3 Flash
2012-02-10
2012-02-10
Flash
Supermafa tacho
V3+ Boulder at Albarracin
hiking up on magnificant huge pockets with a quite high mantle at the end
Albarracin Boulder V3+ Flash
2012-02-10
2012-02-10
Flash
Dado
V2 Boulder at Albarracin
felt more like 6a ;)
Albarracin Boulder V2 Flash
2012-02-10
2012-02-10
Flash
Trampolin
V4+ Boulder at Albarracin
nice dyno
Albarracin Boulder V4+ Flash
2012-02-10
2012-02-10
Flash
Cueva
V5 Boulder at Albarracin
endurance!!! had to fight hard at the flash-go, wouldn't have tried it again ;)
Albarracin Boulder V5 Flash
2012-02-09
2012-02-09
Red point
Hardware
V5+ Boulder at Albarracin
on crimps through the overhang, then the same finish like "Software"
Albarracin Boulder V5+ Red point
2012-02-09
2012-02-09
Flash
Software
V3+ Boulder at Albarracin
easier version on the "Parking-Block"
Albarracin Boulder V3+ Flash
2012-02-09
2012-02-09
Red point
Revolución
V3+ Boulder at Albarracin
nice little roof, the little brother of "el varano" ;) ...2nd try
Albarracin Boulder V3+ Red point
2012-02-09
2012-02-09
Flash
Figure Four
V2 Boulder at Albarracin
easy warm-up...didn't do a figure-four
Albarracin Boulder V2 Flash
2012-02-09
2012-02-09
Red point
El Cocodrilo
V2 Boulder at Albarracin
5c mantle on a crocodile...the best mantle in the world, so much fun!!!
Albarracin Boulder V1+ (V2) Red point
2012-02-09
2012-02-09
Flash
Linux
V1 Boulder at Albarracin
warm-up with a freezy mantle ;)
Albarracin Boulder V1 Flash
2012-02-09
2012-02-09
Red point
Desviacion (CAB-B1-L1)
V4 Boulder at Albarracin
esthetic line around "Techos Don Pepe"
Albarracin Boulder V4 Red point
2012-02-09
2012-02-09
Red point
Metodo bizarro
V4+ Boulder at Albarracin
had to really fight hard at the mantle...did it finally in the dark :)
Albarracin Boulder V4+ Red point
2012-02-08
2012-02-08
Flash
El Reloj Solar
V1+ Boulder at Albarracin
warm-up...hard for the grade ;)
Albarracin Boulder V1+ Flash
2012-02-08
2012-02-08
Flash
Sin sombra
V0- Boulder at Albarracin
warm-up
Albarracin Boulder V0- Flash
2012-02-08
2012-02-08
Flash
La silueta
V0 Boulder at Albarracin
warm-up
Albarracin Boulder V0 Flash
2012-02-08
2012-02-08
Flash
Sombrero
V5 Boulder at Albarracin
warm-up...the guide-book says it's 5b which is imho correct
Albarracin Boulder V1+ (V5) Flash
2012-02-08
2012-02-08
Flash
El besabiceps
V3 Boulder at Albarracin
nice warm-up through an overhang
Albarracin Boulder V3 Flash
2012-02-08
2012-02-08
Red point
L'empotrament Pel Lament
V5+ Boulder at Albarracin
cool start with a dead-point on a sharp incut crimp
Albarracin Boulder V5+ Red point
2012-02-08
2012-02-08
Red point
Zigzag
V5+ Boulder at Albarracin
great roof with lots off pockets & crimps plus a dyno at the end
Albarracin Boulder V5+ Red point
2012-02-08
2012-02-08
Flash
El Calorazo
V6 Boulder at Albarracin
second move on a nice 2-finger-pocket, the blocker to a bad crimp and dyno to the edge...my first 7a+ flash, really my style :)
Albarracin Boulder V6 Flash
2012-02-07
2012-02-07
Red point
Arco Iris
V4+ Boulder at Albarracin
nice technical start through the roof, then heel-hook and jugs, jugs, jugs :)
Albarracin Boulder V4+ Red point
2012-02-07
2012-02-07
Red point
Ben Zoná
V7 Boulder at Albarracin
good pockets and a hook to start, dead-point on a crimps and blocker to another even worse crimps, then dyno & scary, snowy top-out...1st 7b of the trip :)
Albarracin Boulder V7 Red point
2012-02-07
2012-02-07
Flash
Cristal
V4+ Boulder at Albarracin
heel-hook and move to a bad hold, match it and dyno the a perfect pocket
Albarracin Boulder V4+ Flash
2012-02-07
2012-02-07
Red point
Crisis
V4 Boulder at Albarracin
technical start through the roof, then campus-moves on good incut-crimps
Albarracin Boulder V4 Red point
2012-02-07
2012-02-07
Red point
Invernadero
V4+ Boulder at Albarracin
huge moves on good holds with a slopy mantle at the end...2nd try
Albarracin Boulder V4+ Red point
2012-02-07
2012-02-07
Flash
Ilución
V3+ Boulder at Albarracin
nice line along the edge of a nice roof, had a snowy mantle at the end...muy friiio ;)
Albarracin Boulder V3+ Flash
2012-02-06
2012-02-06
Flash
Obra de arte
V3 Boulder at Albarracin
nice warm-up with pockets, crimps & sloper...it's hard to find such a beautiful 6a
Albarracin Boulder V3 Flash
2012-01-04
2012-01-04
Flash
Kleines Dach
V2 Boulder at Kremstal
little easy roof....quite nice though
Kremstal Boulder V2 Flash
2012-01-04
2012-01-04
Red point
Mantle-Problem
V3 Boulder at Kremstal
nice little problem (probabely established by Niki & me) at the wall behind "Teil einer Jugendbewegung"...did it 1st try this day
Kremstal Boulder V3 Red point
2012-01-03
2012-01-03
Red point
Kante
V4+ Boulder at Kremstal
the nice overhanging arete at the entrance of "Steinener Saal"
Kremstal Boulder V4+ Red point
2012-01-03
2012-01-03
Flash
Block
V2 Boulder at Kremstal
nice bloc on the way down to "Steinener Saal"
Kremstal Boulder V2 Flash
2011-12-30
2011-12-30
Red point
Vorturner
V7 Boulder at Mariensee
Yeah, finally did it!!! THE line on "Sonnendeck-Boulder" following up the obvious thin crack to a sloper (4 moves), than with a finger-lock to a crimp + the insecure mantle :-) "Excellent, brilliant, superb..."
Mariensee Boulder V8 (V7) Red point
2011-12-12
2011-12-12
Red point
Bruchdach
V5 Boulder at Mixnitz
good overhang...all you need: an undercling-sloper, nice crimps, heel-hooks and a funny mantle with deep cracks ;)
Mixnitz Boulder V5 Red point
2011-11-23
2011-11-23
Red point
Sidewinder Stehstart
V5+ Boulder at Merkenstein
good line...we found a solution with a really high heel-hook which made it much easier ;) next time the sitstart (7c+)!!!
Merkenstein Boulder V5+ Red point
2011-09-04
2011-09-04
Red point
Wall
5.12a Sport at Suesca
some metres to the right from "Los Gnomos", don't know the name & grade...technical wall climbing on under-clings up to an arete...from there a scary (a moving bolt) & pumpy (overhanging with heel-hooking-action) traverse to the top...
Suesca Sport 5.12a Red point
2011-09-04
2011-09-04
Red point
Los Gnomos
5.11d Sport at Suesca
nice route!!! hard wall-climbing up to the 4th quick-draw...then easy metres to the top on really bizzare rock :)
Suesca Sport 5.11d Red point
2011-09-04
2011-09-04
On-sight
Roof-Crack
5.10a Traditional at Suesca
funny, short roofcrack, which you protect with 2-3 friends...looked much harder than it was :)
Suesca Traditional 5.10a On-sight
2011-08-24
2011-08-24
FA On-sight
Vamos Pa'lante
V3+ Boulder at Sierra La Culata
just was hiking around in the Sierra when i found these great boulders with no trace of former climbing...looked at most appealing line, the overhanging arete on the big boulder...cleaned it a bit and climbed it :)
Sierra La Culata Boulder V3+ FA On-sight
2011-08-24
2011-08-24
FA Red point
Chicha Andina
V5+ Boulder at Sierra La Culata
a great line directely through the overhang of the big block...took me some time to understand the move and to have the ball to make the upper part (had no crashpad)
Sierra La Culata Boulder V5+ FA Red point
2011-08-22
2011-08-22
FA Red point
No Baje La Tensión
V4+ Boulder at Los Techos
da funny little problem which i created at the traverse-wall of "Los Techos"...propabley a FA
Los Techos Boulder V4+ FA Red point
2011-08-12
2011-08-12
Red point
Dextro Energy
V6 Boulder at Sonnendeck
yeah finally, such a pure line!!! hot day but good grip though :) hard moves on small crimps, quite painful...
Sonnendeck Boulder V6 Red point
2011-08-10
2011-08-10
Red point
Ufo-Boulder
V5 Boulder at Kremstal
don't know about the name or grade, but a really nice esthetic line. sit-start under the roof and some moves on crimps to the edge, traverse it and do the mantle, which is definitely the crux
Kremstal Boulder V5 Red point
2011-08-10
2011-08-10
Red point
Leistenteil
V4 Boulder at Kremstal
don't know about the name & grade...great line with the most amazing incut-crimps :)
Kremstal Boulder V4 Red point
2011-07-10
2011-07-10
Red point
Zwei Füße in Afrika
V5 Boulder at Mariensee
perfect line on the perfect "hidden" bloc "Afrikadachl"!!! ...following the obvious overhanging arete which then becomes more vertical & easier :)
Mariensee Boulder V5 Red point
2011-07-09
2011-07-09
Red point
Zangen-Boulder
V5 Boulder at Mixnitz
pumpy moves on slopy holds, for me harder than "Verschneidung"...
Mixnitz Boulder V5 Red point
2011-07-06
2011-07-06
Red point
Linker Boulder
V4+ Boulder at St. Radegund
good line on "Straßenblock"...just 2-3 hard moves, but took me some time to finally send it...
St. Radegund Boulder V4+ Red point
2011-07-04
2011-07-04
Red point
Verschneidung
V5+ Boulder at Mixnitz
really nice boulder thought the overhanging corner...first move is the crux, followed by the best drop-knee-move i know ;)
Mixnitz Boulder V5+ Red point
2011-06-19
2011-06-19
On-sight
Hopsa
5.10d Sport at Huatluckn
just a unspectacular warm-up-route, at least a flash ;)
Huatluckn Sport 5.10d On-sight
2011-06-13
2011-06-13
Red point
Sloper-Traverse
V5+ Boulder at Kremstal
actually a traverse on crimps from left to right, then a slopy top-out (crux)
Kremstal Boulder V5+ Red point
2011-06-06
2011-06-06
Red point
Via Maria
5.11b Sport at Schatzinsel
pockets and more pockets ;)
Schatzinsel Sport 5.11b Red point
2011-06-06
2011-06-06
Red point
Mei Thai
5.11c Sport at Schatzinsel
great line up a blue sinter
Schatzinsel Sport 5.11c Red point
2011-06-06
2011-06-06
Red point
Mozzies Live
5.10c Sport at Schatzinsel
funny, but wet
Schatzinsel Sport 5.10c Red point
2011-05-17
2011-05-17
Red point
Scharlatan
V5+ Boulder at Kremstal
nice technical boulder on the left side of the "Aufwärmwandl"
Kremstal Boulder V6 (V5+) Red point
2011-05-13
2011-05-13
Red point
Sloper-Boulder
V5+ Boulder at Mariensee
painful hold after the first move, then lovely slopers and a technical mantle
Mariensee Boulder V5+ Red point
2011-05-09
2011-05-09
Red point
Rissdach
V4 Boulder at Mariensee
just unique!!! nice roof-crack which you can climb with three hand-jams or you cheat by taking a hidden crimp...tricky, high mantle at the end
Mariensee Boulder V4 Red point
2011-05-07
2011-05-07
Flash
Placca
V2 Boulder at Val Di Mello
the central slab at "blocco 2" (masso della luna)
Val Di Mello Boulder V2 Flash
2011-05-07
2011-05-07
Red point
La carrozza di rame
V5+ Boulder at Val Di Mello
awesome boulder!!! high arete with the crux at the end
Val Di Mello Boulder V5+ Red point
2011-05-07
2011-05-07
Flash
Blocco 3
V4+ Boulder at Val Di Mello
the obvious line at "blocco 3"
Val Di Mello Boulder V4+ Flash
2011-05-07
2011-05-07
Flash
Placca
V3 Boulder at Val Di Mello
the right slab up a huge highball at blocco 1 (masso del sole)
Val Di Mello Boulder V3 Flash
2011-05-06
2011-05-06
On-sight
Diagonal Crack
5.10d Traditional at Val Masino
great diagonal crack on the backside of Sasso de Remenno
Val Masino Traditional 5.10d On-sight
2011-05-05
2011-05-05
Red point
Il Diedrino
V5 Boulder at Val Masino
overhanging dihedral with a finger-crack...amazing boulder!!!
Val Masino Boulder V5 Red point
2011-05-03
2011-05-03
On-sight
Il Risveglio di Kundalini
5.10c Traditional at Val Di Mello
6a+/~410m/10 pitches -- really nice alpine-route at "Dimore degli Dei" wall. climbed it together with Ben & led all the pitches...Pitch 2 is already the crux-pitch (7-/40m) and at pitch 3 you have an endless beautiful crack (6+/40m)...then you follow up a huge corner, make a slab-traverse before you climb the exposed last pitches
Val Di Mello Traditional 5.10c On-sight
2011-05-02
2011-05-02
Red point
Il Lancio
V5+ Boulder at Val Di Mello
Spettacolare!!! Just one move, a huge dyno from two crimps to the edge of the boulder! On the back of the "Propietá-Privata-Boulder"
Val Di Mello Boulder V5+ Red point
2011-04-30
2011-04-30
Flash
Highball
V2 Boulder at Varazze
don't know the name... a nice highball right of "fessura diagonal"
Varazze Boulder V2 Flash
2011-04-30
2011-04-30
Red point
Fessura diagonal
V5 Boulder at Varazze
can't remember the name, but a nice little line on a diagonal crack
Varazze Boulder V5 Red point
2011-04-30
2011-04-30
Flash
Castor
V4 Boulder at Varazze
nice boulder, you can make a huge top-out on the bloc, saw a snake up there ;)
Varazze Boulder V4 Flash
2011-04-29
2011-04-29
Red point
Teccamen
V5+ Boulder at Varazze
second go, the 1st move is the crux...did it 3 times this day, my style ;)
Varazze Boulder V5+ Red point
2011-04-29
2011-04-29
Flash
Muuu
V5+ Boulder at Varazze
nice slopy traverse with mantle at the end
Varazze Boulder V5+ Flash
2011-04-26
2011-04-26
On-sight
Fessura della Disperazione
5.11a Traditional at Valle dell'Orco
3 pitches, 90m, 6b+ THE eyecatcher on "Sergent-Wall", 3 pitches of desperately off-width climbing on a huge left-winding crack ;) ...climbed it together with Strong-Tom, on-sighted all the pitches & led no. 1 & no. 3. Pitch 1 is a good warm-up with a no-hand-position in the middle. Pitch 2 starting with a though vertical corner, followed by traversing the left-winding off-width. At pitch 3 you climb up vertical again and then squeeze inside the crack when it starts again to go left to the abseil-platform.
Valle dell'Orco Traditional 5.11a On-sight
2011-04-25
2011-04-25
On-sight
Incastromania
5.10b Traditional at Valle dell'Orco
great pitch along a superb parallelo-crack
Valle dell'Orco Traditional 5.10b On-sight
2011-04-22
2011-04-22
Red point
To hook or not to book
V6 Boulder at Merkenstein
the best line at "Block U" taking the obvious way in the middle of the cave
Merkenstein Boulder V6 Red point
2011-04-21
2011-04-21
Red point
Nn
V4+ Boulder at Mariensee
nice traverse on the small bloc between Sonnendeck & Totenkopf
Mariensee Boulder V4+ Red point
2011-04-03
2011-04-03
Red point
Straßenteather
V5+ Boulder at St. Radegund
after years and years of trying i finally sticked the dyno after climbing the starting moves...
St. Radegund Boulder V5+ Red point
2011-02-28
2011-02-28
FA Red point
Diagonallah
V5+ Boulder at Wadi Rum
THE kingline on the bloc! http://www.vimeo.com/22103757
Wadi Rum Boulder V5+ FA Red point
2011-02-27
2011-02-27
On-sight
The Inshallah Factor
5.11b Traditional at Wadi Rum
15 pitches, 450m, E.D. Inf. climbed free ;) THE route on the Jebel Rum East Face which catches the eye, great & epic!!! hard cracks, corners & off-widths at the beginning of the centre-wall. Originally parts were climbed with aid, especially pitch 5 (6c) is really serious with poor protection when climbed free. Niki, Peter & me climbed it together, i red-pointed all the pitches + led no. 5 (the serious crux-pitch), 6, 12 & 13 :) The middlepart is scary too with slabs, poor protection & loose rock. The headwall is climbed by winding left to the "Fire-Exit-Chimneys", where you're just very deep inside Jebel Rum ;) Then you get out of it and can look down throught the "Eye of Allah", where originally starts the abseiling. we then had a scary abseiling through the night and unknown terrain :)
Wadi Rum Traditional 5.11d (5.11b) On-sight
2011-02-26
2011-02-26
FA Red point
Schuh-Kran (Shukran)
V4 Boulder at Wadi Rum
great direct line on crimps with a slopy mantle
Wadi Rum Boulder V4 FA Red point
2011-02-25
2011-02-25
2nd Flash
Gib dir die Kante
V3 Boulder at Wadi Rum
the first line on our deserted granit-bloc ;) looked harder than it was...Niki did the FA!
Wadi Rum Boulder V3 2nd Flash
2011-02-24
2011-02-24
On-sight
Lionheart
5.10d Traditional at Wadi Rum
6b/~350m/7-8 pitches (4/6a/6b/6a/6a/6b/6a/4) "If you like crack-climbing, do Lionheart!" (some Czech-climbers) ...great line along some crack & corner-systems up the Abu Aina Towers, really sustainted and hard for the grade... climbed it together with Niki & Peter, onsighted all the pitches & led no. 1, 2 & 3. In Pitch 1 & 2 (4 & 6a) you climb up a good chimney and you can do them in one pitch. Pitch 3 (6b/~45m) is a kingline, first you have great finger-locks up a crack in a corner, then climb up chimney (where you can stay until the end of the pitch) and then change to a really exposed arete. I think the best pitch i've ever led. Pitch 4 (6a) has a slightly overhanging wide crack (camelot no.4) which seemed much harder than 6a for me and then a slab. Pitch 5 (6a) is just an endless corner with perfect jams to get at another chimney at pitch 6 (6b) from where you finallely traverse to the headwall for exposed slab-climbing at pitch 7 (6a) and an easy last pitch (4) to gain the top of the Abu-Aina-Towers... Just an awesome route!!!
Wadi Rum Traditional 5.11a (5.10d) On-sight
2011-02-21
2011-02-21
FA On-sight
Ka Kush, Ka Hasch
5.10b Traditional at Wadi Rum
6a/~100m/3 pitches (5/5+/6a) a really nice line which we found when we were soloing "Sabbah's Route" to get to the South Summit of Jebel Khush Khashah. We came back the next day & just tried to climb it. Pitch 1 (5) is a dirty off-width & chimney, pitch 2 (5+) goes up a scary vertical mushroom-wall, so there's a lot off loose rock and bad protection. Then you make stance in a little cave from where you start for pitch 3 (6a), an amazing blank corner with a parallel crack with lots off good hand & fist jams. Climbed it together with Niki, we onsighted all the pitches, he led no. 1 & 3, i led no. 2.
Wadi Rum Traditional 5.10b FA On-sight
2011-02-16
2011-02-16
On-sight
Merlin's Wand (Super Crack of Rum)
5.10c Traditional at Wadi Rum
6a+/~150m/5 pitches (5+/6a/6a+/5+/5) incredible steep crack-line with perfect protection and lots off face-holds. Climbed it together with Madhou (who led his first trad-lead) & led all the pitches except pitch 1.
Wadi Rum Traditional 5.10c On-sight
2011-02-15
2011-02-15
On-sight
Le Bal des Chameaux
5.9 Traditional at Wadi Rum
5/~100m/3 pitches (?) an obvious climb up the Arche Tower from the Remy-brothers, so it's adventureous & scary ;) we just climbed the first pitch (5/corner) but then didn't know how to continue...the abseil was confusing & dangerous too ;)
Wadi Rum Traditional 5.9 On-sight
2011-02-14
2011-02-14
Top rope
Cat Fish Corner
5.11b Traditional at Wadi Rum
6c/~100m/3 pitches (6a+/6c/6a) a HUGE corner at Jebel Kharazeh...sustainted & pumpy climbing at pitch 1 to a good ledge. Pitch 2 (6c/35-40m) goes up further the corner but the crack is really fine & the walls are blank. Climbed it together with Peter & Madhou but didn't red-point pitch 2, where i had a huge 8-metres-whipper only held by a 0.3 camelot ;)
Wadi Rum Traditional 5.11b Top rope
2011-02-13
2011-02-13
On-sight
Inferno
5.10d Traditional at Wadi Rum
6b/~180m/5 pitches (5+/6b/5/5-/6a+) 5 fine pitches at the Jebel Rum East Face, pitch 2 (6b/crack with the crux at the end) and pitch 5 (6a+/up a fine flake) are the best... climbed it together with Peter & Madhou (his first trad-route), on-sighted all the pitches & led no. 2,3 & 4.
Wadi Rum Traditional 5.10d On-sight
2011-02-12
2011-02-12
On-sight
The Beauty
5.10b Traditional at Wadi Rum
6a/~200m/5 pitches The name says it all!!! just a unique route up the west-face of Jebel um Ejil. Climbed it together with Peter & led pitch no. 1, 3 & 5. At pitch 5 (incredible off-width) you normally get nice afternoon-sun and the following two pitches (4+ & 2/3) to the top you can easily solo ;)
Wadi Rum Traditional 5.10b On-sight
2011-02-11
2011-02-11
On-sight
Goldfinger
5.10a Traditional at Wadi Rum
5c/~120m/3 or 4 pitches really nice warm-up route on Jebel Rum east-face to get used to the rock & the style of climbing... climbed it together with Peter and led pitch no. 2 (5c/40m) where you climb up a fine corner and than change to a nice finger-crack and follow this to a platform. That's the "Goldfinger"--> great pitch!!!
Wadi Rum Traditional 5.10a On-sight
2011-02-02
2011-02-02
Red point
Sweet bitter tears
V7 Boulder at Merkenstein
funny arete...worked really easy :)
Merkenstein Boulder V6 (V7) Red point
2010-12-30
2010-12-30
Red point
Gela
V5 Boulder at Merkenstein
nice roof with a hard finish...in da snow :)
Merkenstein Boulder V5 Red point
2010-09-05
2010-09-05
On-sight
Via Lara
5.7 Traditional at Nissedal
4/~350m/free-solo -- impressive experience...great long route up a logical crack-system...did it two times free-solo, the first time in about 40 min., the second time in about 30 min.
Nissedal Traditional 5.7 On-sight
2010-09-04
2010-09-04
On-sight
Mot Sola
5.10c Traditional at Nissedal
6a+/355m/9 pitches -- great route with great cracks
Nissedal Traditional 5.10c On-sight
2010-08-30
2010-08-30
On-sight
Forsida
5.9 Traditional at Svolværgeita
5/128m/4 pitches -- superb route up the Svolvaergaita...climbed it with Peter & just led the last pitch to the summit when there came a huge thunderstorm & i got quite wet at the hang-belay on the top...no jump this time :)
Svolværgeita Traditional 5.9 On-sight
2010-08-28
2010-08-28
Flash
Svenske diedret
5.11a Traditional at Paradiset
6b+/22m -- very technical climbing up a dihedral...was belaying Niki at the first try, so no on-sight, but Ben did it solo later :)
Paradiset Traditional 5.11a Flash
2010-08-28
2010-08-28
Flash
Dosethrisset
5.11c Traditional at Paradiset
6c+/14m -- excellent finger-locks up a steep crack with some technical metres at the end
Paradiset Traditional 5.11c Flash
2010-08-27
2010-08-27
Top rope
Vågarisset
5.10d Traditional at Kalle stranda
6+ (Norvegean Grade), 70m, 2 pitches ...awesome huge crack in a blank wall high on "Vågakallen". You can easily see the route from the camp at "Paradiset", but the approach up there is really though (we called it vegetation-climbing in the 6th grade)... Peter climbed the first pitch (6a+/25m) which is a corner followed by a small roof and some vertical metres with great hand & fist-jamming. I led the huge second pitch (6b/45m) along the off-width, but didn't red-point it because it felt much much harder, about 6c/7a in my opinion (so i choose top-rope as ascent type)...at the platform after the crack we stopped, because the Lofoten guide-book didn't have any information about the next pitches...but it should be possible to continue i guess :)
Kalle stranda Traditional 5.11b (5.10d) Top rope
2010-08-26
2010-08-26
On-sight
Jesus
5.10a Traditional at Paradiset
5+/14m -- nice trad-pitch up a huge beach-boulder...next time solo :)
Paradiset Traditional 5.10a On-sight
2010-08-25
2010-08-25
On-sight
Vårkåt
5.11c Traditional at Store Festvåg
6c+/135m/4 pitches (6b+/6b/6c+/4) -- hard & sustained climbing up the steep Jonfru Pillaren... climbed it with Tom & Niki on a real windy day: i led pitch 1 (piaz, finger crack & traverse), Niki pitch 2 (groove, off-width, overhang & hand-jams, probably 7a) & Tom pitch 3 (slab with fine cracks & a super-steep handcrack at the end)...pitch 4 is easy, but we were really distroyed on the top :)
Store Festvåg Traditional 5.11c On-sight
2010-08-23
2010-08-23
On-sight
Fire forsøk
5.11a Traditional at Festvågveggen
6b+/~80m/3 pitches -- nice route with a steep finger & hand crack at pitch 3.
Festvågveggen Traditional 5.11a On-sight
2010-08-20
2010-08-20
On-sight
Lundeklubben
5.10c Traditional at Store Festvåg
6a+/~90m/3 pitches (5+/6a+/5) -- funny route which goes up nice corners, then a little roof at pitch 2 & zig-zag-cracks at pitch 3.
Store Festvåg Traditional 5.10c On-sight
2010-08-20
2010-08-20
On-sight
Skiløperen
5.10b Traditional at Store Festvåg
6a/30m -- really futuristic crack up a steep wall...looks much harder than it is, lots off face-holds :)
Store Festvåg Traditional 5.10b On-sight
2010-08-19
2010-08-19
On-sight
Vestpillaren
5.10d Traditional at Presten
6b/~460m/11-12 pitches -- incredible route on Presten...a real voyage, especially the "Slannting Corner" pitch is good as hell. climbed it with Tom (we changed lead at every pitch) in about 7 hours (we started at 1 pm)...you never have stress with the time there in summer, so we made lots off smoking-breaks ;)
Presten Traditional 5.10d On-sight
2010-08-18
2010-08-18
On-sight
Gandalf
5.8 Traditional at Gandalfveggen
4+ (or ~6b at pitch no.3)/100m/3 pitches -- nice & easy route up the Gandalfveggen, at pitch 3 you can directly climb trough the tricky "eagle-nest-roof" to make it a little more difficult :)
Gandalfveggen Traditional 5.10d (5.8) On-sight
2010-08-18
2010-08-18
On-sight
Gamle Rev
5.10c Traditional at Gandalfveggen
6b/95m/2 pitches -- two really good pitches (6b & 6a) up the Gandalfveggen. climbed it with Tom & abseiled on a huge 100m fixed rope...let's do another route :)
Gandalfveggen Traditional 5.10d (5.10c) On-sight
2010-08-17
2010-08-17
On-sight
Bare blåbær
5.7 Traditional at Djupfjord
4/236m/7 pitches -- nice warm-up route with everything you need: corners, finger & hand cracks, flakes...should be great to climb it solo, but you also would have to down-climb it....climbed it with Tom together with Peter & Gabriel, the approach through Djupfjord is beautiful as well & you find lots off blueberries :)
Djupfjord Traditional 5.8 (5.7) On-sight
2010-08-16
2010-08-16
Red point
Alkotest
5.11d Sport at Eggum
tricky slab at the beginning, then nice dyno at the crux
Eggum Sport 5.12a (5.11d) Red point
2010-08-14
2010-08-14
Red point
Lille vakre Anna
5.11b Sport at Eggum
overhanging, short & funny
Eggum Sport 5.11b Red point
2010-07-30
2010-07-30
Red point
Panzerdivision Marduk
5.12b Sport at Scheiblingskirchen
it was a hard fight :)
Scheiblingskirchen Sport 5.12b Red point
2010-03-04
2010-03-04
Red point
Wadi Rum
5.11c Sport at Scheiblingskirchen
short, good pockets & overhanging
Scheiblingskirchen Sport 5.11c Red point
2010-01-03
2010-01-03
Red point
Upper Sprungblock Traverse
V6 Boulder at St. Radegund
had to fight hard :)
St. Radegund Boulder V6 Red point
2010-01-02
2010-01-02
Red point
Crétins und Schurken
V5+ Boulder at St. Radegund
a classic on "Sprungblock"...one of my first boulder in Radegund
St. Radegund Boulder V5+ Red point
2009-11-15
2009-11-15
Red point
Uga aga iga
V4+ Boulder at Merkenstein
a classic...nice roof with a final dyno!
Merkenstein Boulder V4+ Red point
2009-06-22
2009-06-22
Flash
Das letzte Einhorn
5.10d Sport at Ewige Jagdgründe
short & funny route
Ewige Jagdgründe Sport 5.10d Flash
2009-06-22
2009-06-22
Red point
Schwänzeltanz
5.11b Sport at Ewige Jagdgründe
technical slab
Ewige Jagdgründe Sport 5.11b Red point
2009-06-22
2009-06-22
Red point
Shoulderblock
V4 Boulder at Kaseler Alm
füße anziehn beim pendel ;)
Kaseler Alm Boulder V4 Red point
2009-06-22
2009-06-22
Flash
Fangidifickidi
V6 Boulder at Kaseler Alm
nice boulder, but never 7b
Kaseler Alm Boulder V3+ (V6) Flash
2009-06-21
2009-06-21
Red point
Griff Quiz
5.11b Sport at Ewige Jagdgründe
starts with some hard piaz-boulder-moves and finishes up through a nice corner
Ewige Jagdgründe Sport 5.11b Red point
2009-06-21
2009-06-21
Red point
Sechsplosion
5.10d Sport at Ewige Jagdgründe
a classic...the first route at Ewige Jagdgründe...2nd try
Ewige Jagdgründe Sport 5.11a (5.10d) Red point
2009-06-21
2009-06-21
Red point
Indianerdachl
5.11b Sport at Ewige Jagdgründe
crux through the roof
Ewige Jagdgründe Sport 5.11b Red point
2009-06-20
2009-06-20
Red point
Country Dump
V4 Boulder at Kaseler Alm
difficult mantle
Kaseler Alm Boulder V4 Red point
2009-05-05
2009-05-05
Red point
Moonfog
5.11a Sport at Scheiblingskirchen
short, good holds & overhanging
Scheiblingskirchen Sport 5.11a Red point
2009-01-02
2009-01-02
Red point
Le Surplomb Feuilleté droite
V6 Boulder at Franchard Isatis
nice line through an overhang!
Franchard Isatis Boulder V6 Red point