The Bachelor Pad

Far left hand side of cliff. Stand-start off chalked horizontal, then up left then back right following the line of least resistance to the positive holds under the roof.

Starts on the start hold of Fat Neck and moves into the LH pinch and RH undercling. From here launch to finish holds, STACK PADS.

Sit-start on big, flat, horizontal chalked jug. Place feet so they are off the ledge you are sitting on, then head up via a gaston pinch, a V-slot and some crimps to a jug directly above.

Same start as Fat Neck. Head slightly left and up into underclings, then follow jugs (and the bolts), jumping off when you get scared. Essentially the start of the grade 23 route. The obvious high chalked jug is the generally accepted finishing hold.

Free Mahi Mahi to the sloper then right to the small undercling in the roof and up via the big LH sidepull and crimps.

Same start as Fat Neck. Head R and up into underclings and side-pulls. Then continue R past the bolt via crux moves using a crimp rail to reach the finish jug of The Bone.

Same start as Fat Neck, but directly right into large undercling, then to LH sloper and better RH sloper holds. Up and left through more underclings/sidepulls to good, round jug hold up under big roof.

Foot eliminate. Start as for Catch Mahi, then rightwards across underclings and KMWISF start holds, into The Bone and finishing for this problem. Keep feet above the slightly off-horizontal seam at the base.

Dyno eliminate. Standing start using small LH nubbin crimp on hanging slab, and RH on adjacent sloper with thumb press. Jump for jug under roof!

Crouching start under KMWISF going LH into undercling, RH into gaston press with thumb catch, then ‘faith move’ to LH nubbin crimp of KMWISF (employ a good spotter). R to big scoop jug, then dyno for big jug under roof.

(Eliminate). Scary! Match both hands in the U-shaped jug of The Bone, then launch (double-handed) diagonally leftwards for the finish of Mahi Mahi. Spotters mandatory.

Dyno eliminate. Standing start using small LH nubbin crimp on hanging slab, and RH on adjacent sloper with thumb press. Jump for jug under roof!

Crouching start under KMWISF going LH into undercling, RH into gaston press with thumb catch, then ‘faith move’ to LH nubbin crimp of KMWISF (employ a good spotter). R to big scoop jug, then dyno for big jug under roof.

(Eliminate). Scary! Match both hands in the U-shaped jug of The Bone, then launch (double-handed) diagonally leftwards for the finish of Mahi Mahi. Spotters mandatory.

Start on big, chalked jug. Move into large undercling then up to U shaped jug, then big move to the finish jug of Mahi/KMWISF.

Sit-start on chalked block. Up and slightly left to jugs at the break.

Start on big, chalked jug. Move into large undercling then up to U shaped jug, then big move to the finish jug of Mahi/KMWISF.

Sit-start on chalked block. Up and slightly left to jugs at the break.

Start on the big sidepull, up diagonally left through serrated edges to the horizontal break, continue up past the letterbox fininshing out right on the hanging block. Pad it up well!

Sit-start on blocky side-pull. Straight up to good rounded 'horn' and horizontal break above.

Sit-start on jug rail. Up to roof on jugs.

Double-hand dyno from the obvious launch site (pick a jug!) to the big, rounded goodness in the break.

Project. Start LH on the lowest sidepull left of Jaques start holds and RH on crimp undercling, Pull left into holds of Non-Intentional Life Form and finish as for this problem

**Blocky start hold has been pulled off** Sit-start with underclings/side-pulls on blocky feature under the start of Chocolate Aftertaste traverse line. Paste the feet on and lock or dyno to pointy jug, then more easily up to jugs on traverse line.

An old local project nabbed by the raiding Austrians! Sitting start just right of Jacques on LH sidepull and RH good undercling, then into and through Aftertaste Low Traverse (sidepull pocket and fin hold) and finishing straight up. FA: Klem Loskot.

Sit-start with LH on undercling crimp and RH on chalked pinch. Get up and into Chocolate Aftertaste Low, then finish as for Chinese Nuggets. FA: Sharik Walker.

Starts RH on SGF’s LH start hold and LH on a pinch/crimp near the lip. Pull on, then bust LH out to pockets and head up to finish for Chinese Nuggets. FA: Luke Geelen.

Stand start holding the pinch of Aftertaste Low Traverse and the finish jug of SGF. Dyno RH to a sloping jug in the top break.

Starts under main roof on reasonable undercling (RH) and poorer undercling (LH). A very powerful 3-move problem. Pop LH to intermediate ‘breadloaf’ pinch, then dyno out to the pocket on the lip (LH again) – catch the breadloaf as an intermediate (RH) – then dyno up to jug in the Aftertaste traverse line. Very dynamic and VERY powerful. FA: Luke Geelen.

Start with LH on the SGF lip hold and a polished rounded crimp adjacent (right) of it. Bust a move (LH) to the pinch on Aftertaste Low traverse then hit the jug line of the upper traverse. Finishing as for The Ballroom Slap is yet to be done and probably V5.

Standing start. From huge jug in middle of traverse line go up and left to jug pocket, then up.

The obvious line of side-pulls/laybacks through the roof, past a couple of fixed draws.

Traverse high break from large chalked horizontal jug to a point where you can drop down via a good pocket/jug to the starting hold of Chinese Nuggets (monster bucket midway across). Continue though to jug at the end of the traverse line, then up to match on big sloper. FA: Andy Beckworth

Start as for Chocolate Aftertaste High but drop down to low level traverse from jugs using LH pocket/sidepull. Motor rightwards via a good open pocket and a ‘fin’ pinch, then into the original line at the 'drop down' pocket. Finish as for Chocolate Aftertaste High. FA: Luke Geelen.

Pull on at massive bucket halfway along traverse line (start of Chinese Nuggets). Motor right past a pinch, a pocket and some cruxier holds to reach the sharp jug at the right-hand end, just below and right of the big sloper finish of Twist & Shout.

Climb Chocolate, then up to massive sloper and up further to good high jug via a tricky side-pull/layback move.

Campus from the large bucket (LH) on the Aftertaste Traverse and slightly higher smaller jug (RH) to the high flat jug, then without matching go again RH to the top! 1-5-9 standard campus measurement.

Hold large bucket LH and smaller slightly higher jug RH. Make a footless campus move to the high flat jug.

Eliminate. The stand-start variant to Twist & Shout, starting on large underclings followed by 3 big moves, finishing on the big sloper. From underclings, out to rounded 'horn' on Chocolate. R hand to small pinch. Up to big sloper. Match.

Sitstart – then out across the bad crimpers/slopers on the lip. RH crescent sidepull, then left into undercling right into undercling paste right foot on and go to the triangle pinch out left (in traverse line) – then straight up to the sloper (via intermediate pinch) – and match. Apparently flashed by Klem on the first ascent. FA: Klem Loskot.

Start as for 'Twist & Shout', then out right and into large underclings. From here, pinch and layback out the arete and up to the horizontal jug via a pinch/pocket. FA: Sharik Walker.

Start as for 'Twist & Shout' but keep traversing right across slopes then up into the good undercling. Work your feet out, then head up and out (through blade jug) to the finish sloper of 'Shout'. FA: Toni Lamprecht.

Climb Benelli's (V5), into reverse Chocolate (V2), then finish up Chinese Nuggets (V1).

Start on sloper and RH sloper/crimp at the end of the Benelli’s traverse (just under the underclings). Left foot on lip, then up into the good underclings. Out to the sharp jug, then cross into the good finish hold of Chocolate and finish matched on the big sloper.

The V6 stand start variant to Kid Indestructible. Start as for Benelli's stand start.

The V6 stand start variant to Kid Indestructible. Start as for Benelli's stand start.

This was a long time open project for a few years, until Toni turned up. Starts LH undercling and RH pocket – then dyno to polished sloper – then out to jug and up. Very solid at the grade. If you skip the hard first move and pull on at the sloper – it’s probably still V8 (7B). FA: Toni Lamprecht.

Obvious sit-start extension. Apparently the hardest power problem that Klem did during his Australian holiday. FA: Klem Loskot.

Start as for Cocktoe, then break left out near the lip via a crimp and a large sidepull slap. FA: Sharik Walker.

Start left of Stalker with LH on good hold in roof and RH on low pinch. Out diagonally right via pinches and a fingery undercling (optional), then through the ‘breadloaf’ pinch (often wet), finishing directly on the Stalker final finish hold. FA: Sharik Walker.

Linkup of Stalker into Tao, crossing into Cocktoe through the Stalker side- pull and seeping pinch hold. ‘Slightly harder than Tao’ according to the first ascentionist. FA: Sharik Walker. If you climb this then do the entire finish of Cocktoe it’s V9/10.

Start left of Stalker with LH on good hold in roof and RH on low pinch. Out diagonally right via pinches and a fingery undercling (optional), then through the ‘breadloaf’ pinch (often wet), finishing directly on the Stalker final finish hold. FA: Sharik Walker.

Starts back of cave with feet on rock platform. Through ‘bunny ears’ undercling, out to large sloper hold, then out to obvious ‘shark fin’ hold on lip and up. Finish on large sloper/jug out and left past niche.

Trev's 4-move extension to Stalker (V6) - finishing on Tao.

Starts at far right-hand end of cliff line on left side of scoop/shallow cave (questionable rock) finish up slopers on right.