The Chaos of Targasonne is a world class granite boulder field at an altitude of 1500m. Considered the second most important bouldering zone of France (apart from Fontainebleau) it offers hundreds of problems of all difficulty, there is something for everyone, with an astonishing view of the Catalan Pyrenees.
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Overall the Chaos of Targasonne offers more than 1100 routes with a very sharp and rounded granite rock type. Mind your finger skin!
This area has it all, from lowballs to scary highballs, family friendly zones with boulders for children to world-class routes of the hardest grades. Slabs, dynos, Moonboard crimpy style overhangs.. just prepare to have fun and have your skin shredded.
Some super classic lines here would be:
- La Théorie du Chaos 8A+
- Uniformicide 8A
- Nazgul 7C
- Eternal Flame 7B+
- La proue 7B+
- Sing while you may 7B
- Pleasure Dome Sit 7A+
- L'aquarium envolé 7A+
- La Baleine 7A
- Kebab traum 6C
- Elixir 6C
- Scato no Vice 6B+
- Lumière et mélancolie 6B
- Hugo Frais 6A
- Hey hop 5+
- Klange 4+
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This crag's south orientation means that it gets a lot of sun during all day. The best seasons to boulder here are spring and autumn. Bouldering is possible in summer too in the shadier sectors of Canal, Arche and 3 grasses or in La Baleine in the afternoon. Locals may argue that the best season is winter where you have the amazing grip called 'tactum' that in the best dry and windy days feels almost like cheating!
The vegatation also experiences changes during the seasons. While in winter it snows but rarely stays for more than a few days, in summer the vegetation grows wildly making the zone a true labyrinth.
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Besides all the route information, the constantly growing 27 Crags Premium topos have GPS coordinates for each boulder and offline use in the app. These guarantee you won't get lost while navigating to the right rock and that bad internet connection won't stop you browsing the topos!
In https://www.madboulder.org/targasonne you have a lot of betas available.
This topo is mainly based on the guide by Fred Bertin published in 2015 but it also tries to consolidate all the scattered information and new developments done since then in one place. Still under development it will be updated periodically adding the last information and updating any error, don't hesitate to leave your comments!
As in all the climbing areas, behaving correctly is crucial. No littering, no climbing on wet rock, brush away all the tick marks and stay on the obvious paths. Remember that we are in private property and access can be revoked!!
