ATTENTION:
New parking is now available at the fishing club at the end of Enbuskvägen (september 2025). Parking is not permitted anywhere on Svarttjärnsvägen.
This unusually exotic crag is well hidden in the middle of the forest on Ingarö. The main attraction is a strongly overhanging only 8 meters high wall with an exceptional rib-like and grippy structure that is very unusual. The short routes offer very technical and intense climbing right from the start, which is extremely entertaining. Although they are pretty short, these routes are considered to be among the very best in Stockholm, and if you climb 8a and above, this is one of the places in Stockholm you should visit. The easier routes are a blended compote of trad, mixed and bolted ones. Some of these are indeed quite ok/fun, but they probably work more as a filler.
A giant rockfall took place at Rasväggen in the winter of '98, which makes it a bit awkward to move around that part of the wall. A 50-ton block has, on a later occasion slipped down a bit to the left of the route Corn flakes and therefore the hangers on that block are unscrewed, and these routes are therefore removed from this guide.
The sometimes solitary anchor bolts on top of the routes have been equipped with extra ring-bolts here and there, but precautions should be taken when lowering down as there are many old carabiners sitting in the hangers. The steepest part of the main wall (Huvudväggen) is clean of moss, other routes may need some brushing.
Environment:
South-Southwest, partially open to the sun. Somewhat strange enclosed environment. Good in spring.
