Description

🚶‍♂️ 1-10' for the boulders and closest crags, 30’ for Belvedere and Nivolet - ⛰️ 2000+ MSL - 🧭 NESW - ☀️ boulders are sunny, crags according to their exposition

Mountains always have great surprises: this time we face a wide valley, carved by clear streams and contained by rocky slopes, called Valsavarenche.
This topo groups a couple of sport routes sectors and a nice boulder area, where the Grampablok (the first bouldering meeting of the natural park of Gran Paradiso) has been held.
There are more than 130 problems of a wide range of difficulties. Landings are good and the approach is short and easy. The rock of the Gran Paradiso is great and has a good friction. Since the area is mainly above 2000 msl, Summer turns out to be a good season for bouldering here.
The sport routes sectors are really interesting and have a great history behind them.
Belvedere di fosse suits the best families and first timers: routes are generally easy on slabs with good protections. The wall is located at 2150 msl and faces South with an amazing view over Gran Paradiso. There are also some short multi-pitches. Approach is quite long (30 minutes), but the location is really nice.
Parete delle guide has a short approach and routes from 5 to 6b. This crag is used as a training and demonstration camp by the alpine guides.
Finally Parete delle gare was bolted on the occasion of national competitions held many years ago. The wall is overhanging and the routes are hard and mainly chipped. Climbing here requires a huge amount of strength. Best climbing conditions during the Summer.

Valsavarenche offers a great amount of climbing possibilities, but do not forget that you are exploring the amazing natural park of Gran Paradiso!
There are numerous paths spreaded along this plateau, where it is easy to get into wild animals like chamois, ibex, marmots, foxes. We suggest to not miss the waterfall of the Nivolet torrent and discover the alpine pastures and the cliffs vegetation

We expect that climbing in Valsavarenche will improve a lot in the next few years, thanks to its great potential. Please remember that we are guests of an amazing natural park, so we kindly ask you to respect the area by taking home the trash, not cutting vegetation and carefully brushing away the chalk from the rock.

History

Let’s start from the history of bouldering: the Valsavarenche boulder area was born thanks to the team “Fuori di blocco” and the community of the valley. The area held the first bouldering meeting of the natural park of Gran Paradiso, the Granpablok. FAs of the problems came from the “Fuori di blocco” guys and the meeting participants.

The area has some historic sport routes too.
Parete delle gare was born in 1993 on the occasion of a national climbing competition. The winners of the competition were the strong Italian climbers Cristian Brenna, Severino Scassa and Alberto Gnerro. In the following years, the crag hosted other regional competitions which helped with the improvement of the lines. Bolters: Andrea Plat at first, then Rudy Buccella and Massimo Bal.
Parete delle guide was developed by the alpine guides of Valsavarenche society, mainly thanks to Valerio Bertoglio. In 1997 the wall was maintained by the guide Patrick Rospo.
Belvedere di Fosse and Parete del Nivolet were discovered and bolted also by the alpine guides of the valley.