Description

Most of the sport climbing routes in Paklenica canyon are located along both the sides of the narrow gorge (Klanci). Klanci spreads from the parking lot to the northeast. Routes are either located on separate rocky formations or on steep parts at the foot of rocks Klanci is topped by. They are mostly located near the path or across the stream, while some newer sections are on steep slopes away from the path and the stream. In most cases rocks are facing northwest and southeast, which means that each side is exposed to the sun one part of the day. Most of the slabs are vertical or slightly overhanging with small but firm handholds. Most of the routes are appropriately equipped.
A 15-20 minute walk is a distance from the first to the last section.
The newest climbing sector in Velika Paklenica is a perfect option for cold and windy winter times. Rock in sector Tarajlije is of perfect quality. Unlike Klanci, in Tarajlije red and yellow rock prevail, it is full of tufa and similar formations. The ambience resembles more to Rodellar than Paklenica. Routes are up to 50 meters long and they require a lot of endurance. Ambience and view over the surroundings are great.

The most favourable time of the year is from April to the late October. In winter strong winds poses quite a problem (lately section Crljenica is being developed and considering its sunny position it is suitable for climbing even in the colder part of the year). In the spring period one must take into account frequent showers, but it is necessary to know that due the karstic terrain rocks dry very quickly. In summer it can be hot, but you can always find a face in shade . In the summer there is an increase in the number of visitors partly because during summer there is a possibility of combining this kind of vacation with swimming in the sea and classic summer vacation.

History

The first short sports routes were put up in Klanci. The Italian M. Corona equipped first such route (Stimu­la), and not long after that, his fellow-countryman famous Manolo climbed the route that has remained the most difficult route in Paklenica: Il Marattoneta (8b+). There is also Moskito (8b) clim­bed by G. Horhager.
Boris Čujić and Ivica Matković equipped or reequipped most of the routes in Klanci. They opened a very nice sector Hram with overhanged routes. Igor Čorko and local Marin Marasović equipped a great sector Rupe with mostly hard routes. In recent period two great sectors are opened Tarajlije and Kozarice. For both a longer walk is needed but routes are some of the best in the canyon.