Great sport climbing crag and the outdoor climbing gym number one in Stockholm. The routes are about 20-25 meters long, mostly overhanging, and offer plenty of bolted sport routes in all grades and angles, many of them considered the best climbs in Stockholm. The routes are often sustained and pumpy. This is a very popular crag and there are always people here, but don't worry, there is room for everybody. The south wall is quite long and even though you have to scrabble upward in steep terrain the wall keeps its height almost all the way to the last route. Bolts are everywhere and some routes have an insane number of variations and linkups (route finding could be demanding).
This is not a very beautiful wall and the rock can be quite loose here and there. Stones of different sizes quite commonly fall down from the wall when routes are climbed, so watch out. A helmet is absolutely recommended and keep the children far away from the wall.
On Svaväggen down at the road where the easiest routes are, the quality is much better.
This is a very accessible crag with plenty of parking space and an easy and short approach. It's also easy to get to this crag by public transport.
Environment:
The main wall (Sydväggen) is south-facing and gets quite warm in summer, but late afternoon and evenings work well. Trees give shade only here and there. Mostly block terrain at the base of the rock. Most of the rock dries up fast after rain and some routes are certainly climbable during some light rainfall.
The easier routes on the west-facing wall might be a bit slippery on hot summer days. Svaväggen is located along i little road, so be careful not to step out on the road. Remember to climb gently and avoid tearing down gravel, rocks or branches on the road. It might hit your belay partner or people passing by on the road.
