We like Niagara Glen
Great bouldering, check out http://www.glenbouldering.com/
Lots of problems in a perfect forest setting. Rock quality isn't that great and a lot of the problems are polished to the point of being glassy. Grades are not sandbagged as much as they are inconsistent.
As my home crag, this is a special area for many working-class climbers in New York and Ontario. The rock is VERY condition dependent, especially the limestone up top, not so much for the sandstone next to the river. For the most part, the grades are stiff. Finger strength is a must, as there is a lot of crimping to do, and lots of tweaky holds.