Nacka Kvarn

Popular after-work crag near town nicely located along Nacka stream. The wall is about 13 meters high, slightly overhanging and offers routes with good technical and finger-pumping face climbing on nicely sized holds. Located only 5 km south of Stockholm. The rock quality is rather ok.

Environment:
West Northwest, semi-open and dries relatively quickly. The crag is surrounded by some leaf trees which makes the environment at the Main wall rather pleasant. The sun strikes the wall quite late in the afternoon, but then it gets really hot. A high hill opposite the crag shadows the face quite early in the evening when the sun is on its way down, and summer evenings should work fine. Quite a lot of traffic on the road on the other side of the stream can be heard.

Main wall:
around thirteen meters high and slightly overhanging crag with pumpy and sustained routes on mostly quite ok crimps or smaller jugs. Good condition and well-equipped routes.

Blocket:
A really big boulder with a couple of fun although very short routes. Depending on the water level it can be a bit tricky belaying on some of the routes.

S.F.W. wall:
Moore overhanging with short and bouldery routes and more intense than the Main wall.

Right wall:
Very steep, short and crimpy. Even more intense and bouldery than S.F.W-wall. Not top-notch quality on the rock, but if you like short and bouldery routes this might be the right place for you. Mostly just one single bolt at the top of the routes. Some of the holds are glued. In the spring, the water level in the river can be so high that it is wet under the wall.

In the guidebook from 1989 there where only one bolted sport route at Nacka kvarn; Totalvägra (7a). But according to the description in the book it was worth the trouble getting there just for that single route. It's understandable considering overhanging jugy and bolted sport routes at that time where pretty rare in Stockholm.

Totalvägra was first made artificialy by Mikael Sribhadung and Lennart Swahn in 1988 but Jonas Olsson and Daniel Bidner made the fri accent that same year.
Kristian Dahlgren made Brown sugar in 1990, a very short but steep and technical climb that everybody visiting the crag wants to climb.
Daniel Bidner continued with Freaky deaky and Ignition, also very popular routes.

Johan Luhr has also contributed with a couple of nice routes on the Main wall that today are very popular. Freaky deaky direkt (7b) and Blind (7c) and he has also developed the walls to the right.

When Thomas Hanson did the route S.F.W, in 1992 there was a lot of talk among climbers that this was one of the hardest and crimpiest climb that existed in Stockholm.