Description

Large south facing crag with a complex system of gneiss walls. Furthest to the right is Planetväggen, a steep wall with thin cracks. Further left is Stora Väggen, a slab ca 45 m high at 70 degrees with good crack- and wall climbing. Further left a few walls around 10-30 meters high are found, with some of the finest routes of the crag at Circusväggen, Vildmarksväggen and Stålväggen. Slabs and steep slabs are perhaps the dominant type of wall, but there are roof features and vertical sections at many of the walls. Rock quality is generally good.

It is possible to camp close to the crag. A good site is just below Lägerväggen. There are no good sources of water close to the crag, water can be refilled in Järvsö village or at the church. Järvsö has a fairly large number of restaurants and accomodations for a village of it's size, and a grocery store.

Access to the crag is restricted due to nesting birds (see Access page), however in a good autumn 2-3 months of pleasant climbing will still be possible. The restricted access unfortunately makes it easy for many routes to grow mossy. Bringing and using a brush will keep the walls in good shape.

A large thank you in the digitalization of this topo goes out to Per Calleberg who gave me permission to use his topo sketches from the old paper guidebook.

History

The crag was discovered in 1982 by Åke Englund, Gunnar Larsson and Torbjörn Nilsson, and they made the first routes that year. During the 80s further development happened. In 1985 the first routes on Vildmarksväggen were made, and in 1987 the first route in Hälsingland of grade 8 was made on Circusväggen when Johan Luhr did Daladansen.

A few routes were reported in the 90s, although it is a bit unclear where some of them are.

Restricted access due to bird nesting has led to the crag at times being a bit forgotten, at the time of writing (2024) restoration work, and reopening of routes has been done.

Mörkberget

Climbing has been limited!

På grund av häckande fågel är Mörkberget strax öster om Järvsö är stängt för klättring perioden 1/4 – 20/8. Klätterstoppet återkommer årligen.

Due to nesting birds Mörkberget is closed for climbing from April 1 to August 20.

The previous parking problem have been solved, check the map for marker for the new parking space. From the parking space it is about 20 minutes walk to the crag. A few meters back down the road there from the parking there is a trail heading into the forest on the left hand side. The trail joins a bigger trail and then a gravel road further along. The first wall section visible on the left hand side after about 20 minutes walk will be Vildmarksväggen.

https://access.klatterforbundet.se/morkberget/