Medveja

Not far from the small fish village of Medveja, on the coastal side of the Učka mountain, one can meet a wide valley Lovranska Draga. The climbing site Oporovina is located on the north-east slopes of the valley. Systematic equipping of the site began in 2008, by efforts of local climbers and a few enthusiasts from Italy. The site is characterized by the superb quality of rock and an outstanding Mediterranean environment. On several crags one can find a wide variety of routes: long and overhanging routes as well as technically demanding vertical plates. In general, most routes in this site require a high concentration and a physical endurance so the site is recommended mostly for experienced climbers. Routes are well bolted. Approach to the site follows the marked trail. Trails to certain sectors are somewhat steep, therefore not recommended for children.

After the rain depends on the wind how fast routes need to be dry again, but sectors Veli Jože and Mali Jože dries faster. Knezgrad can be wet for a longer period of time.

Important remark: Climbing site Medveja is located in the buffer zone of the Nature Park Učka. This means that, even though the site is not within the Park, the Park’s rangers are authorized to intervene in case of human activities that may negatively influence balance of the Park’s ecosystems. Therefore we urge all visitors of the climbing site Medveja to follow the next rules:
• Parking is allowed only in designated places, by the main road before the road branching that leads to the site.
• Camping is prohibited both below crags and abroad.
• Approach to crags is allowed only by marked trails. No trespassing private land.
• Some parts of the area (like caves in the upper section of the site) are registered archaeological sites, therefore any unregistered activities in such places are prohibited.
• Uncoordinated equipping of new routes is forbidden. Before any such activity, one should contact the local climbing club (rirockclimbing@gmail.com).

Accomodation: Camp Medveja (http://www.remisens.com/en/camping-medveja)
Lovran District Tourist Office (http://www.tz-lovran.hr/english/Default.asp).

The first to bolt here were locals and climbers from Rijeka, Pazin and Pula around 2008, who first made the lower sector Mali Jože with the first route RiRock, which kick started the revolution. The biggest leap was made by bolting the magnificent Knezgrad, where Italians with Andrea and Enrico Polo left their mark. In 2011 Klemen Bečan climbed the Polo brothers project, the Core and graded 9a, which was later downgraded to 8c+ by Andrea Polo itself. But we didn‘t wait too long for the next 9a. During climbing of Vicious Circle in Mišja, Adam Ondra visited Medveja, where he onsighted Lovranska droga (8a) as a warmup, which was just an introduction to the on sight ascents of Outdoorfingerspiele (8c) and The Core (8c+). Still, the highlight of the day was an ascent in More (meaning „the sea“ in Croatian ), a proper 9a, which is still unrepeated.