Description

La Pierre du Beurre is the closest bouldering area from Martigny. In a really compact area you can find more than 60 boulder problems with a majority of boulders in the 6th grade.

The rock type is a mix of gneiss which requires good frictions. Conditions matter in this area! La Pierre du Beurre is this isolated boulder in the middle of the apple tree and you find quite a lot of boulder below the road to Salvan.

The terrain is pretty flat and it’s easy to move around in the area. This also makes many landings pleasant and fits perfectly for a short session in the evening or a nice day with kids. La Pierre du Beurre is very suitable for families with kids as the approaches is short (1-3min) and often the ground is safe for the little ones to roam around.You can also find some really small rocks which aren't in the guidebook but fit perfectly for baby climbing. It's definitely too warm in summer but it can always bit a nice place to climb.

On the main boulder, La Pierre du beurre, there are some bolts at the top and it's perfect to do some easy top rope for kids.

In the upper area there are a lot of small boulders that Nils Favre brushed and climbed but aren't in this guidebook as the line are really really small and not so interesting, but if you look around you can find even more moderate boulders.

Recommandation:
La rampe direct, 6A+
La diagonale des fous, 6B+
Grotte à Alex, 6C+
Descente à la cave, 7B

History

Really old and classic area in Valais. Nils Favre brushed some lines on the upper part of the area around 2005-2010 and also some climbers from Martigny but the moss is coming back quickly on the upper boulders.

La pierre du beurre

The area is access sensitive!

Access and Parking:
🚗 Check the map for the parking location, which is at the end of the dirt road. Please be sure to leave enough space for cars to pass through. You can also park at the beginning of the dirt road on the side.

Trail to the Area:
🚶‍♂️ Follow the trail on the map. You can see the boulders from the car on your left!

Important Notes:

🐝 Respect the Bees: There is currently a beehive near the climbing area. Please avoid approaching or disturbing the bees, and respect the property owner.

Respect the Environment: Please do not steal apples (or any fruits) from the area—it's crucial for maintaining access to this spot.

Leave No Trace: No special rules, but as always, take your trash with you and keep noise levels low to maintain the peace.