Originally found by Juha Suikkala, the 150-meter wide wall of Kuulivuori starts quite low from the left side, but reaches it's tallest point of 14 meters when continued to the right. Kuulivuori has got some edge. From over 50 routes can be choosed some dihedrals, aretes, roof, slab and a lot of overhang. "Tuomari Falcone" and "Turron" are gorgeus stemming dihedrals, "Mokonäkki" and "Kastraatiopuikko" are serious and exceptionally knife-edged aretes. Slab attitude can be tested on "Haamu" and "San Bartolomeo", roof geometry on "Helldorado". Some bad ass overhang cracks are offered by "Kiviliitto" and "Strato", having "Kangastus" and "Lahja" as their easier siblings.
Those who have had enough of cracks can test some exciting hold-climbing on "Keltainen reuna" and "Tikka Tuulispää", or the first sport route at the crag, "Astaroth". Being mostly steep-profiled, Kuulivuori can be characterized with certain cruelty: the routes are mostly not easy, and often not very well protected. Some of the trad routes force the climber to ask oneself the important question: "Do I really want to do this?". In 2007 the forest was cut from the front of the gloomy crag so you can now ask that question from yourself in a mellow sunlight.
Top roping has been made easier by installing bolted anchors on some selected routes. There are also two fixed rappel points. The varied selection of routes enables the climbing experience enjoyed in many flavors, but with a cost of lack of high-quality easy routes and the majority of routes being quite committing ones. Maybe the attraction of Kuulivuori is not in the quick visits but rather in the long-term challenges. One of the most difficult challenges in Kustavi climbing, "Das Ding" resides on this crag.
https://jammi.net/kalliot/kustavi/kuulivuori/index.html
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Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original jammi.net topo collection team:
* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.
* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.
* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.
* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.
* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.
https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/varmistettavuus.html
