Description

Towering above the traditional town of Leonidio, the bright red wall of Kokkinovrachos (“Red Rock”) has long been its most striking landmark. This natural shield first attracted climbers during World War II, when Italian soldiers stationed in the area tackled the earliest lines. In the 1980s, a handful of Greek pioneers established around a dozen trad routes, slowly bringing Leonidio closer to what had already been standard practice in alpin countries for decades. Yet for the next twenty years, this potential diamond remained unpolished, and most of its existing routes fell into obscurity.
Today, Kokkinovrachos tells a very different story. Development has been rapid and extensive, transforming the cliff into one of the most accessible climbing venues in Leonidio. The renowned Swiss Remy Brothers and their partners equipped more than 120 sport routes on the lower 20–40 meters of the 200-meter wall. While this created a large number of easily accessible climbs, it also limited the wall’s potential as a true multi-pitch destination, as envisioned back in the 1980s.
Most routes here are lower-grade sport climbs on the sunny base of the cliff, making the wall ideal for the colder months. Expect sun all day and don’t forget to look up from the rock, the view over Leonidio is nothing short of spectacular.
One exception is Petalo, a sector that follows the more logical progression: offering top-quality multi-pitch lines with both trad and fully bolted protection.
Access & Parking
Kokkinovrachos is especially convenient for those without a car, as it can be reached directly on foot through town.
From main parking (central bridge, with public toilets)
Sectors in walking distance: Orama, Rocspot, Douvari, Petalo (30 min)
From Health Center
Sectors in walking distance: Hospital, Red Rock (20 min)
From the Cemetery
Sectors in walking distance: Cemetery Gates, Adis, Namaste (20 min); Mars, Phobos (30 min)
With most sectors facing the sun at low altitude, Kokkinovrachos is best enjoyed in spring, autumn, and winter. Routes generally start in the easier grades, while difficulty increases further right (Cemetery Gates, Namaste, Mars). Many share the same stunning backdrop overlooking Leonidio.

History

Kokkinovrachos – Order of Development
WWII: Unknown Italian soldiers climbed the first lines.
1980s: Greek climbers opened the first trad routes.
2013: Athenians established the first sport routes in sector Petalo.
2014–2016: The Remy Brothers and partners equipped the main sport climbing sectors.
For details on the remaining sectors of Kokkinovrachos and their equipping history, see the respective sector/area entries on 27 Crags.