Description

Karavi is a small, beautiful crag on the foothills of Mt Ymittos that works best for warmer days in spring and fall and summer mornings. Similarly to Spilia Daveli, it owes its existence to the quarrymen of the ancient times. Evidence of the rock extraction methods is still visible on some routes making the climbing here a unique experience. Karavi (“Ship” in Greek) is the modern name given to the crag by climbers due to the characteristic arête which resembles a ship’s prow jumping out of the rock face.

Despite the fact that the surrounding pine forests have been repeatedly ravaged by forest fires, the place still has a positive aura due to its scenic location. On a clear day, visitors can enjoy wonderful views all over the Attica plateau from the coastline and the port of Piraeus, to the mountains of Parnitha, Egaleo and Penteli.

The crag numbers around 30 routes averaging 15m high and most of them bolted. The rock is super-solid grey limestone or re-crystallised marble of top quality. Climbing is surprisingly variable considering the size and height of the crag, offering a little bit of everything from vertical slabs and cracks to a few sustained overhangs and classic dihedrals. Despite the bolts, climbing in Karavi used to require something of a trad head. Bolts added during the recent maintenance have change this to an extent, but some routes still maintain their old-school character. Grades in Karavi tend to be stiff but this adds to the special character of the place.

Similarly to Varympopi, the routes in Karavi are numbered rather than named.

Climbers need to keep their eyes open during the birds nesting period (in late spring) as birds sometimes use the cracks for nesting. Needless to say that any activity should be avoided near nests as the birds are very sensitive to disturbance.

History

The modern climbing history of the crag commences in the late 80s although there are non-confirmed references of climbing activity in the 50-60s. G. Drazinos and G. Georgakopoulos opened the first routes here in 1988. The early 90s mark the biggest route setting activity in the place as well as most first ascents by the likes of G. Voutyropoulos, K. Tsouklidis, G. Makris, D. Bakalis, D. Titopoulos, G. Zaharakis and others. Sporadic route-setting, re-bolting and maintenance continues to this very day. The crag remains a popular (but very seldom busy) destination for many Athenian climbers.

Routes on Karavi
39 Sport 11 Likes
Premium topo by Yamas
Yiorko Chaz
from Athens
Jussi Luukkonen
from Helsinki