Name | Grade | Type | Ascents | Rating | Sector | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
60 kw
|
800
7b
|
Boulder | 2 | |||
Jutah 60
|
400
6a
|
Traditional | 16 | |||
Ite harjasin
|
400
6a
|
Traditional | 6 | |||
Kiitos Ystäville
|
275
4+
|
Traditional | 12 | |||
Valmis pöytä
|
450
6a+
|
Traditional | 3 | |||
Come Back to Crack
|
950
7c+
|
Traditional | 1 | |||
Ei-niin-nätti
|
200
4
|
Traditional | 10 | |||
Inho
|
400
6a
|
Traditional | 1 | |||
Terribilita
|
400
6a
|
Traditional | 0 | |||
Yksisarviainen
|
400
6a
|
Traditional | 23 | |||
Unifox
|
300
5
|
Partially bolted | 19 | |||
Helppoa nelosta
|
380
5+
|
Traditional | 22 |
|
||
Pelican Fly
|
500
6b
|
Traditional | 1 | |||
Kallioneuvos
|
800
7b
|
Traditional | 0 | |||
Basket Case
|
500
6b
|
Boulder | 1 | |||
Paidattoman rauhan aukio
|
450
6a+
|
Traditional | 0 | |||
Shoulders Like Boulders
|
800
7b
|
Boulder | 0 | |||
Maistonki
|
750
7a+
|
Traditional | 0 | |||
Näkki
|
500
6b
|
Traditional | 0 | |||
Happojuna
|
800
7b
|
Boulder | 1 | |||
Happojuna
|
800
7b
|
Boulder | 0 | |||
Happojuna
|
800
7b
|
Boulder | 0 | |||
Waspikerho
|
750
7a+
|
Traditional | 1 | |||
Happy Joy
|
800
7b
|
Sport | 1 | |||
Punkkijuna
|
500
6b
|
Traditional | 1 | |||
Unifox
|
300
5
|
Partially bolted | 15 |
|
||
Peräkamarin poika
|
300
5
|
Traditional | 3 | |||
Peräkamarin poika, alapoikkari
|
450
6a+
|
Traditional | 0 | |||
Peräkamarin poika, yläpoikkari
|
500
6b
|
Traditional | 1 | |||
Hei hei heinäkuu
|
450
6a+
|
Traditional | 2 | |||
Ilman käsiä
|
200
4
|
Boulder | 1 | |||
Paskahätä
|
200
4
|
Boulder | 2 | |||
Kolmion karva
|
300
5
|
Boulder | 7 | |||
Karvakolmio
|
500
6b
|
Boulder | 10 |
|
||
Slouppipähkinä
|
700
7a
|
Traditional | 2 | |||
Naurettavan lyhyt
|
380
5+
|
Boulder | 3 |
The area is access sensitive!
If a nearby sauna cabin is in use, it is a good policy to refrain from using at least the right edge of the cliff.
🚗Driving Directions
⛴Cross the Ströömi Vartsala ferry.
After about one and a half kilometers you will reach Vartsalantie, which will take you to School and Pohjavuori. Continue straight onto Vuosnaistentie. 2.4 kilometers after the T-junction of Vartsalantie, there is a turn on an anonymous forest road that leads directly to the foot of Kalkunperi. This is the next possible deviation to the left of Vuosnaistentie after the Kalviikinpuhti.
You will notice that you have passed by when you see the view of Hilappajärvi on your left and when you arrive at the intersection of Vartsalantie and Syväniementie. Turn back.
You can leave your car in the paved parking lot at the lake, but you are also allowed to drive all the way to your destination. On the right side of the forest road, at least on dry roads, there are good places to park the car.
N=67231333.920, E=186195.467
---
General access and climbing instructions for Kustavi climbing:
- Always behave politely - the local people you encounter at the crag may be the landowner.
- No littering.
- No campfires.
- No camping at the climbing crags. This is a preemptive recommendation to avoid access issues due to high amount of climbers visiting the island.
- There are plenty of nice options for accommodation in Kustavi. Check out Visit Kustavi web pages (in finnish):
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/majoitusvaihtoehdot/
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/leirintaalueet/
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/yksityismajoitus/
- When parking the cars, use some common sense and do not block any roads or access to the fields. If the marked parking space is full, find some other.
-Chipping routes is prohibited. However, there may be some loose blocks or flakes, which can be dislodged if considered a security risk.
-Unclimbed lines are free for everyone to establish new routes, if not marked as reserved project. Guideline is to reserve maximum of one project per climber per one crag per one season. After one season the project reservation is released.
-When establishing a new route, the first ascensionist is expected to clean the route thoroughly.
-There are some older routes left unclimbed for many years, gathering moss. Bring your wire brush and get some respect from climbing community by retro-cleaning and climbing the forgotten gems!
https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/kaytannot.html