Description

Kalkunperinvuori in North Vartsala is easy to reach and the scenery is beautiful. The crag offers trad, sport and boulder and is located on the shores of the dark watered Hilappajärvi, inhabited by large lake mussels.

The routes are short, but most of them are quite overhanging. The entire Jutah sector has an impressive starting roof. There's a long traverse boulder route under the roof.

The most pleasant place to go for a swim at the end of the day or even between the sends is the narrow cape to Hilappajärvi. It is easily accessible from the parking lot on the shore of Lake Hilappajärvi. The nearby sauna cabin is private property, and it's good policy to refrain from using the right side of the cliff when the sauna is in use.

For all the First Ascentionists: Topo suggestions with silly eliminations and unnecessary variations will not be approved. Keep it simple and natural please!

https://www.jammi.net/kalliot/kustavi/kalkunperinvuori/index.html

---

Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original jammi.net topo collection team.

Currently the 27crags mobile app does not display the additional grade information containing the original Finnish grade and the protection grade (hopefully this feature will be added in the future). You can see the full topo information in 27crags web version or from the original topo collection site at https://jammi.net.

* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.

* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.

* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.

* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.

* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.

https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/varmistettavuus.html

History

Kalkunperinvuori was opened in 2017 by the Kustavi Trad Master Perttu Ollila. Most of the routes were ascended for the first time in 2018. One of the notable routes is Jutah 60, a dihedral anniversary of Juha Suikkala, also legend of Kustavi climbing culture.

Routes on Kalkunperinvuori
1 sport 24 trad 28 boulder 4 Likes
Browse topos
Photos
Premium topo by Jammaajat
Perttu Ollila
P. Ollila
from Turku, Finland
Pasi Raittila
P. Raittila
from Helsinki
Juha Haaja
J. Haaja
from Espoo, Finland
See all members
Other Premium topos by Jammaajat 21
Kalkunperinvuori

The area is access sensitive!

If a nearby sauna cabin is in use, it is a good policy to refrain from using at least the right edge of the cliff.

🚗Driving Directions
⛴Cross the Ströömi Vartsala ferry.
After about one and a half kilometers you will reach Vartsalantie, which will take you to School and Pohjavuori. Continue straight onto Vuosnaistentie. 2.4 kilometers after the T-junction of Vartsalantie, there is a turn on an anonymous forest road that leads directly to the foot of Kalkunperi. This is the next possible deviation to the left of Vuosnaistentie after the Kalviikinpuhti.
You will notice that you have passed by when you see the view of Hilappajärvi on your left and when you arrive at the intersection of Vartsalantie and Syväniementie. Turn back.

You can leave your car in the paved parking lot at the lake, but you are also allowed to drive all the way to your destination. On the right side of the forest road, at least on dry roads, there are good places to park the car.

N=67231333.920, E=186195.467

---

General access and climbing instructions for Kustavi climbing:

- Always behave politely - the local people you encounter at the crag may be the landowner.

- No littering.

- No campfires.

- No camping at the climbing crags. This is a preemptive recommendation to avoid access issues due to high amount of climbers visiting the island.

- There are plenty of nice options for accommodation in Kustavi. Check out Visit Kustavi web pages (in finnish):
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/majoitusvaihtoehdot/
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/leirintaalueet/
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/yksityismajoitus/

- When parking the cars, use some common sense and do not block any roads or access to the fields. If the marked parking space is full, find some other.

-Chipping routes is prohibited. However, there may be some loose blocks or flakes, which can be dislodged if considered a security risk.

-Unclimbed lines are free for everyone to establish new routes, if not marked as reserved project. Guideline is to reserve maximum of one project per climber per one crag per one season. After one season the project reservation is released.

-When establishing a new route, the first ascensionist is expected to clean the route thoroughly.

-There are some older routes left unclimbed for many years, gathering moss. Bring your wire brush and get some respect from climbing community by retro-cleaning and climbing the forgotten gems!

https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/kaytannot.html