Kalkunperinvuori in North Vartsala is easy to reach and the scenery is beautiful. The crag offers trad, sport and boulder and is located on the shores of the dark watered Hilappajärvi, inhabited by large lake mussels.
The routes are short, but most of them are quite overhanging. The entire Jutah sector has an impressive starting roof. There's a long traverse boulder route under the roof.
The most pleasant place to go for a swim at the end of the day or even between the sends is the narrow cape to Hilappajärvi. It is easily accessible from the parking lot on the shore of Lake Hilappajärvi. The nearby sauna cabin is private property, and it's good policy to refrain from using the right side of the cliff when the sauna is in use.
For all the First Ascentionists: Topo suggestions with silly eliminations and unnecessary variations will not be approved. Keep it simple and natural please!
https://www.jammi.net/kalliot/kustavi/kalkunperinvuori/index.html
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Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original jammi.net topo collection team.
Currently the 27crags mobile app does not display the additional grade information containing the original Finnish grade and the protection grade (hopefully this feature will be added in the future). You can see the full topo information in 27crags web version or from the original topo collection site at https://jammi.net.
* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.
* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.
* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.
* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.
* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.
https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/varmistettavuus.html