Description

Jaanankallio is the oldest and most popular crag of the Hyvinkää region. The quality of the rock is "gabro" which is a hard rock quality with a smooth surface. There are many straightish crack lines and compared to granite the climbing is more direct, more smooth and with less holds.

The main face is a little shaded by trees but it's facing southwest and thus rather sunny especially on the top parts. The main face is well visible on the Kytäjäntie and hard to miss. The ground below is more or less even.

If you wish to arrive by publich transportation there is a local bus from Hyvinkään train station on working days. During weekends it's possible to walk from the Helsinki-Tampere -highway (about 1h) or bike from the Hyvinkää train station.

History

The main development of Jaanankallio main face was done in the mid 1990's by Teemu Ojala and friends. The north face was done two decades later in 2015.

Jaanankallio has had it's share of bolting debate. Especially the route called Käkimassaa had a debate about retro-bolting going on for years. But now it has been bolted it's much better so. The original state with only traditional gear was rather unsafe.

The legend says in the 1990's there were found also older pitons but written history is vague. The best guess would be Matti A Jokinen and his motorcycle trips. Kytäjäntie is a very famous windy road, very popular among motorcycle and car enthusiasts and the cliff is hard to miss.

Jaanankallio

The area is access sensitive!

The cliff situates in a nature reserve. Use only paths, do not build open fires, take all trash with you.

🚗 55km/50min from Helsinki | 130km/1h30min from Tampere
When driving highway E12, take exit 6 for Hyvinkää. After leaving the highway, turn east (away from Hyvinkää) onto road 1361.
Stay on road 1361 (Kytäjäntie) for 5,7km / 6 min, park on the big parking on the right.

From the parking lot, cross the small stream on the right. Walk on the side of the field.

DO NOT CROSS THE FIELD NOR WALK ON THE FIELD! In front of Jaanankallio you'll find a well visible path leading to the crag.

The path to the 'North face' starts from the top of 'Blackadder Wall'. The walk is about 600 m and takes only 5 minutes from the main sector.