Forte San Marco

Placca del forte 🚶‍♂️ 20' - ⛰️ 400 MSL - 🧭 SE - ☀️ till 14.30
Mitria 🚶‍♂️ 25' - ⛰️ 360 MSL - 🧭 SE - ☀️ till 14.30
Placca d’argento 🚶‍♂️ 25' - ⛰️ 410 MSL - 🧭 SE - ☀️ till 14.30
Bastionata del Talian 🚶‍♂️ 30' - ⛰️ 410 MSL - 🧭 NE - ☀️ in the morning
Lo specchio 🚶‍♂️ 30' - ⛰️ 400 MSL - 🧭 SE - ☀️ till 14.30
Palestra del Babo 🚶‍♂️ 30' - ⛰️ 510 MSL - 🧭 E - ☀️ till 12.30

Serpele 🚶‍♂️ 10' - ⛰️ 240 MSL - 🧭 S - ☀️ all day
Cubo 🚶‍♂️ 20' - ⛰️ 330 MSL - 🧭 E - ☀️ till 13
La bolla 🚶‍♂️ 30' - ⛰️ 390 MSL - 🧭 E - ☀️ till 14

Forte San Marco is a huge complex of fortifications dating back to the 1800s. It is located at the beginning of the mountain range of Monte Baldo and has a nice 360 view over the Adige valley, lake Garda and the Chiusa di Ceraino. This construction, in addition to its historic interest, is really relevant also to the world of climbing! In fact, this topo collects over a hundred routes spreaded in many sectors.
But let’s get more specific.
All the sectors reported are beautiful and are characterized by similar features. You will not find big overhangs there (except for the huge overhang of Palestra del Babo), only gray/yellow slabs of a good quality limestone. Climbing turns out to be very technical. The walls have generally East exposition, and dry very quickly after the rain. To find the best conditions, come here in the mid-seasons or in the Winter mornings. Summer afternoons might be fine too, as the wall is shady and the area is windy. The crag bases are generally exposed ledges (that are quite narrow in some sections), not recommended for children and animals. Belay points are ok since there are fixed ropes, but be careful when moving along the walls. Equipment of the routes is good.

Placca del forte is just under the fort and offers 40 routes ranging from 4 to 7a. This sector is suitable for beginners and climbing courses. It is possible to train in the use of the trad gear since easy routes have many cracks.
Mitria is close to Placca del forte, a few tens of meters below. The slab is very smooth and has some cracks and small pockets. There are 17 routes around 5 and 6 grades.
Placca d’Argento is a really amazing sector. The rock is white and shiny, resembling the walls of the Verdon and the Marmolada. Lines are 25, having higher difficulties with respect to the previous sectors up to 7c+. They are never over-graded.
Bastionata del Talian has over 20 routes from 5 to 7c. The initial part of the routes is slightly overhanging, the exits are really technical. This sector faces North-East, so it is the first one of the four that gets shady.
Lo Specchio is a huge 30 meters wall with 15 pumpy and hard routes. The lines are long, nice with a great rock. Difficulties go from 6b+ to 8a+. The crag base is quite uncomfortable and the access is not evident. Pay attention.
Palestra del Babo is one of the oldest sectors of the entire Adige valley, but many new routes have been set up quite recently thanks to a fundraiser led by Andrea Simonini. It features an
incredible and steep overhang in the middle having two compact vertical walls on the sides.
Serpele is the southernmost wall and is completely exposed to the South with a great view over the valley. 17 mainly vertical routes, with difficulties around the 6th grade. Best conditions during Winter.
Cubo has tens of extremely technical lines of the 6th grade. The crag base is terrible if you are looking for a relaxing day by the crag. You have to belay while hanging in the middle of the wall. Really adventurous stuff!
La bolla is a great wall with some really hard lines. The upper part of the wall is overhanging and requires a good amount of strength. Almost 20 lines from 6b to 8a and some projects. SOme pitches are quite long. The base is a large and exposed ledge.

Forte San Marco is an interesting topo if you like slab climbing on great rock. The exposition of the wall and the panorama are amazing. Reach the top of the route to feel a nice sensation of emptiness under your feet!

Forte San Marco features a series of fortifications that were built initially by the Germans in the 1800s, then by the Italians in the 1900s. The fort was a strategic resource, thanks to its good 360 view over lake Garda, Adige valley and Baldo mountain range.
It hosts many sectors that were discovered and equipped in the early 80s, by Sergio Coltri, Franco Coltri, Beppe Vidali, Eugenio Cipriani and other climbers. The area was revamped in the last years by Stefano Campagnari, Beppo Zanini, Matteo Vedovelli and Sebastiano Muraro, who maintained the old routes and set new ones.
Lo specchio was discovered in 2013 by Andrea Simonini, who bolted the first lines. The work continued two years later thanks to Giacomo Duzzi and Tommaso Marchesini and in 2018 with other lines by Michele Lucchini The via ferrata at the base was realized by Ivo Bonazzi.
La bolla is more recent, 2018, and was developed by Tommaso, Marchesini, Nicola Zorzi, Tiziana Najjar, Ivo Bonazzi, Giovanni Alvesani and Nicolò Tedeschi.
Palestra del Babo is one of the oldest crags of the entire Adige valley. It was discovered by Franco Babo Coltri. In the last years and starting from 2019, Andrea Simonini started a fundraiser to add new routes and fix the old ones of this nice sector. Matteo Vedovelli and Sebastiano Muraro help with the job.