ATTENTION-DANGER!
DO NOT CLIMB IN DASKALEIO UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE
In August 2016 mechanical tests were conducted on bolts. The results indicated the the crag unsuitable for climbing. Three bolts out of a limited sample broke at almost zero load and several more underperformed in terms of actual vs specified mechanical strength. This despite the fact that the crag was rebolted only 7 years ago and the bolts and hangers used in the last rebolting were stainless steel grade 304/304L. A new rebolting with sutiable materials for marine environments is planned but meanwhile you are advised not to climb in Daskaleio as it is downright dangerous.
Daskaleio has been known for its aggressive /corrosive environment towards bolts due to its proximity to the sea and the tendency of the rock to retain salt residues.This issue does not affect other Athenian crags.
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Although Athens is surrounded by sea, Daskaleio is one of the rare local crags where one can climb and enjoy open sea views and waves swirling under her/his feet. The crag is an isolated marble cliff at the tip of a peninsula near the summer resort town of Daskaleio. The surrounding area has been delightfully ignored by the chaotic building “development” that plunders the area and remains quietly hidden among empty thyme plains and rocky creeks. The crag itself seems like the result of rather recent and violent geological activity and carries an eerie atmosphere noted by many visitors. Routes have been appropriately named from mythological creatures, heroes and monsters related to the sea element.
The marble rock face offers long (30m+) interesting climbing with moves referring directly to marble kinesiology. Climbing is mostly on vertical terrain (slabs and faces) with areas of highly featured rock but also blank desperate sections. The presence of dihedrals, chimneys and cracks adds to the variety. Rock quality ranges from excellent in places to utter choss in others. In most cases, the quality of the route can be easily assessed from its base. In either case, the use of helmet is highly recommended.
Apart from the approx 30 sport routes; a number of bouldering problems has been set on the boulders below the crag. Also notably, a cave with possibilities for hard deep water solo exists on the north side of the peninsula.
Due to the highly corrosive sea atmosphere, steel bolts suffer for heavy and rapid oxidization. A major maintenance initiative has overhauled all visually corroded bolts in June 2012 but its always good to keep an eye for rusty bolts. Bolting is almost invariably dense.
