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Right of Mini Me. The standard way up keeps you on the slab till feet can span to a good slope on the overhanging right sidewall. Pull over the sloping ledge here for an awkward and exposed feeling move onto the continued overhanging wall above, were again the standard line slides right to a rest stance and easier climbing up the top of the arete to the finish above. For the keen at heart, get off the ramps and ledges sooner for a more rigorous and direct line.
F.A. Ed Pramuk (Dec 2006)
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Start on the crack immediately left of the long roof and headwall. Tricky moves up the initial overhanging groove until you reach a good rest at the bottom of the overhanging arete. Layback your way up this (crux) until a mantle leads to a further rest at the point where the route meets with Gold Member. From here, follow the left curving edge of the wall on good hand holds but poor feet until you reach the belay.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (May 2011)
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Start on the left side of the buttress, as for Cryogeny. Follow the tricky moves on this up the bulging groove until you reach the third bolt. From here make tenuous moves out right onto the ledge and a good rest at the horizontal crack on the headwall. Gain your composure here before launching up and over the lip above on small edges (if you can find them) before mantling on to the slab above. Finish up this.
Initiated by Paul Collis & Dan Hannah. Finished and F.A. Laurent Jacob (May 2011)
NOTE: Partially rebolted first 3 bolts with glued-in Nov. 2017
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Start just right of Number one with a dynamic crux on the second bolt. Then move diagonally right before pulling up onto the final wall above ending with ultimate efforts.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (Dec 2011)
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Start just right of the centre of the wall, at the point where a shallow groove is apparent just above the lip of the roof. Pull through the roof using small laybacks in the groove and a positive crimp out right, making a dynamic move to reach good holds out right. From these jugs, move back left slightly and finish directly up the wall above on small knobbles until a delicate mantle over the lip brings respite.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (26 June 2011)
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Start at very base of the crag and climb up the easy moss covered slab to reach good holds on the right end of the roof. Reach through the roof to get the positive crimp above and then stretch, launch or levitate your way up to the positive flake out right (the small will find this rather hard) and jugs above. Continue up the wall above, with the aid of good holds on the arete, until it is possible to trend back left to the obvious hanging flake. Finish up this.
F.A. Tom Chew (15 May 2007)
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