A large crag that is very popular mostly because of many easy, bolted routes. Apart from the bolted routes there are also several trad routes here that makes Aspen a quite complete crag (except for the hardest grades). Unfortunately, the crag is a bit ledgy so the routes are not as long as you might think at first.
ASPECT AND CLIMATE
All sectors except Mumindalen face south or southwest and catch a lot of sun during the day. Mumindalen faces east and is in the shade after noon. The lower parts of the crag are partially shaded by trees while the upper ones are in the sun for most of the day. The crack routes can stay wet for a long time after rain while the face routes dry quite quickly. Some of the routes might have a bit of a “sandy” feeling after longer periods of rain.
There are good swimming possibilities in the lake below the crag.
THE ROUTES
The climbing in Aspen is mostly vertical or slabby but here you can also find a couple of overhanging but short routes. Almost all the bolted routes are equipped with lower-offs. The rock is quite soft which should be considered if you plan to climb the trad routes.
THE SECTORS
NALLE PUH is the sector at the left end of the crag. Here you’ll find some of the best routes in Aspen (that means there are almost always climbers here). Trees shade the sector and some of the routes dry quite slowly.
SHERIFFEN is the middle part of the crag with some slabby trad routes and the hardest (bolted) routes of the crag. Trees in its lower part shade the sector. Some of the cracks stay wet for a while after rain.
FIKAHYLLAN is a quite small and a bit slabby sector with some of the easiest bolted routes of the guide. A perfect place for beginners. The sector is not shaded and the routes dry fast.
Rest of the sectors (AMARETTO, COLUMBUSHYLLAN, ÖVERSTA HYLLAN, HIGHWAYHYLLAN and MUMINDALEN) are quite small with up to five routes per sector. The sectors are seldom visited and the routes there (most of them are trad) are quite dirty. Of all these sectors Mumindalen (situated just above the car park) is perhaps most worth a visit with some relatively easy, bolted routes.
