Damon Vaughan

Learning to dangle. This thing was hard!

Good, lesser travelled route. Not as cool as Sing it in Russian though. Felt insanely hard to onsight.

Nice. Couple this up with Not Bacon and it's worth visiting this area

An amazing boulder problem. Up there with the best at Chaos. I wish more of the climb were like that! I came in from the crack at right, with a really cool toe hook sequence. Some toe scum trickery made the upper moves easier.

My favorite from the Pipeline. Flows really nicely

Fun route. Bad bolts as of July 2016. Every single one was spinning and pulled out a quarter or half inch

Leftmost route on the Rap Stars wall at Crag 6. Super good. Continuous 5.12 climbing with a crux about halfway up, and enough jugs sprinkled in to make it reasonable.

One of the steepest trad pitches I've ever done. Insane jugs! Kinds like the sport climbs in the Flatirons, just way easier.

Three pitch route over by Vertigo. I did the "best" variation, with P2 of the route "Three old farts", and P3 being the roof variation pitch. I can't believe this one is not more classic! Sustained, steep and pumpy.

An incredible route. Lots of great climbing on this one.

Stunning piece of rock. Lots of polish, but it's still great!

Awesome rock

A great and unique route on some pretty crumbly rock.

My first real slab project. It felt impossible all the way up until the send go, which felt strangely easy. Some of the most immaculate rock around!

Downpulling crimps. Sharp. Yum

Cool move in the middle, nice to top out this boulder.

Rad! After failing on Saigon every single time I come to Bishop, it's cool to top this boulder out!

Fantastic

This has broken. There's a rock scar, and in the book photo you can see the climber using a hold that's not there anymore. It's still rad, but not easier than V6, maybe harder.

Great problem, I had always wanted to try it and finally got around to it. A bit of an in-obvious start. I started at the same place shown in video here. Maybe a contrived lower start is V9?

Part of my obscure Happy's highballs tour. A good one!

Always wanted to do this thing but was intimidated. Those holds are solid, right?

Unique

An incredible route! Can't believe I had never heard of this thing before.

Surprised by the difficulty of this one... It took some hanging to figure out the crux. Awesome route on great rock with two interesting and unique cruxes

Great little route. I've been on a bender of short powerful ones lately, and this is up there with the best of them.

A very unique route. Somewhat reminiscent of HP 40, but all the slopers are sideways

Shorty that packs a lot of punch. Contains the best move in all of the Poudre.

Sweet route on great rock.

Cool route with the hardest crux I've yet encountered at Shelf

Stellar

Great little section of rock here.

Crack climb. Anchors have been moved a bit lower and are in a better place now.

Love this blue rock. Kind of awkward in spots though

Thin, technical, stays with you the full length

This route is amazing. It's telling of how good the VRG is when this only gets one star in the book.

Hell yeah! I'd give it three stars but it's a bit short and you have to climb an awkward choss ramp to get to it. Super sustained on incredible rock with great footwork.

Unique slab climbing. Great rock with thought provoking moves. Desperate at times.

Jungle Wall, Poudre Falls area. Awesome boulder problem on glacial-polished stone.

Cool route on nice black rock.

Pretty unique climb. The crux is on the vertical wall down low, but the steep jugs go on forever, and it's super pumpy until the 3rd to last bolt when you can rest.

Maybe the best 12a I've ever done.

Steep arete tucked into the back of the Gully. Good holds on the left and poor holds on the right. Two stars for its length, but otherwise a perfect line!

Indian Wars wall. Finishes on Battlecry. I guess the original line goes to Mohican's anchors, which definitely adds some difficulty.

One of the coolest limestone routes ever. Perfection.

Pretty good. Fun technical climbing down low. When I didn't know what to do at the top I remembered the route name and jumped like hell to the left, and it worked.

Such good rock!

Super unique. So many holds it's hard to figure out what to do, but I only use about half of them.

This route is amazing, I can't believe it's not more popular. Perfect rock, no polish, and no one is ever in this cave.

Somehow pulled this off second go. No expectations takes the pressure off I guess. I found a cool crimpy way through the crux that I don't think a lot of people do.

Great route. Less sustained than the ones to the left, but the boulder problem was harder for the than anything on the Beast or Never Believe

This is the best.

Another classic on this amazing wall.

Awesome!

Can't get enough of this rock.

Killer route! Went to this on a whim one day when it was too hot to climb in the Flatirons. Since then, I couldn't stand to go anywhere else until I sent it. Six days I think? I'll cast my vote for 13c, since grade seems to be unconsolidated. I suppose it could be 13b.

Incredible rock. If it were a boulder problem it would be classic.

Surprisingly awesome route! 2+ stars

Sooooo good! This felt insanely hard, but maybe it's because it was 4th day on. Relentless climbing. Took everything I had.

A decent route. Interesting climbing and good rock but holy cow is it sharp. Climbed it to get a photo angle of GWB, but I don't regret it.

Incredible route. Super long, sustained, and airy at top.

Heard reports of this having broken recently, and I'd believe it. Very thin crux. I thought it was at least as hard as Tangerine Fat Explosion

11b at Crag 6. The right hand line of the two awesome 11's. Great steep section at the top.

The arete on the far right. Awesome! Maybe 12b? Very hard onsight for me, I was redlining the whole time but just kept making myself do one more move. Enduro like the Red.

Crag 6. Super cool, continuous with great rock. Right hand line of the two 12's. Named for a smelly bush

10b corner at Crag 6.The left corner on the first big wall you see.

10c corner at Crag 6. Between the 5.11 wall and 5.12 wall. Long and awesome!

An okay line. Kinda chossy, then some thin moves, then big holds up top. Nice and long.

Fun, airy line. Much better than the one next to it.

Thiiiiiin

Great route. Cool boulder problem, then plenty of opportunities for resting. Probably my hardest flash to date.

Good slab. Hard to onsight if there is no chalk!

One of the best routes I've climbed in a while. Took a sporty fall during the runout section, but it was clean. This route intimidated the hell out of me but wasn't too bad.

Awesome last 20 feet, if only the whole thing were like that!

Good route. The traverse section was more fun than I thought it would be.

Great route! Originally felt impossible, but new beta helps tremendously. Took me 8 tries over 2 days, so I'm not sure it could be 13b. Certainly not as hard as Annunaki

A little bit of everything- steep section, handjams, slab crux. Astronomy wall.

Amazing route on the Astronomy Wall. Much better than it looks from the ground.

Great route with super clean rock through the crux. Tenuous till the chains. Given 12c by most, could be 12b, time will tell I suppose.

I think the crux on this is hard. Took me a few tries over the years, glad to finally do it.

Super cool. Good consolation prize for not even being able to figure the crux out on the full line.

A worthwhile variation for sure.

Doesn't really add too much difficulty to Potato Chip

Stunning line, I have always wanted to do this one.

Very unique features, kinda scary

Amazing line, definitely nice to have some snow beneath it!

Long and pumpy with a roof crux in the middle. Just left of the Fellina wall on the steep prow. This is the right hand line

Two routes left of "One eyed Fellina". Very cool crux involving a huge move to a mono.

Fellina wall... left of the arete. 11d ish?

Fellina wall... blunt arete on the left side. Mono crux down low, then cool arete climbing to the anchors

Awesome and long. I think it's better and harder than Love Matters, but not the obvious line.

Really, a great line

Sustained and cool... not the best rock.

I'm guessing this is the problem to the right of "Aspen arete"? I liked it.

Steep!

Severely bungled the low moves but still pulled it off. Pretty cool line!

Incredible rock on this one. Easy climbing to a slightly hard to figure out crux, then awesome jugs to the anchor.

Stellar rock and a cool move at the anchor.

Cool route with amazing features up higher.

Varied route with some fun and interesting climbing. The bolted-on flake up high is not confidence inspiring.

Very unique and interesting route. You get a lot of time to stand around and contemplate the next series of moves!

Super cool! One of the best in the Boulder area. Very hard for me, quite the satisfying send.

One of the best routes at BoCan's best crag

Strange route... easy runout slab climbing to a perplexing roof. Pretty wild roof pull, then rope drag nightmare to the anchors.

Great route! Pretty tough for me, took a few tries.

Big flake for a hundred feet. Cool and unique!

Right of "Tubesteaks tomorrow" at the 2nd Meat Wall. A bit chossy but fun, with a hard anchor clip.

Great clean line

Good route at the Power Wall, varied and long. There is some choss in the middle though.

Incredible wavy hand crack, but very short. Left of Flower Power at the Power wall.

Nice flake/corner. 2's to 3's with a crux somewhere in the middle.

Really nice line. Incredibly easy to protect since you place gear in a different crack than the one you climb.

Splitter-est thing I've ever climbed.

4X4 Wall, way over to the right

To the right of Dr. Carl

Awesome route. Psyched I finally made it back after a few years to get it done.

Very nice. Huge jugs

One route right of "Snake Eyes". Snowing sideways when I did it, but only one hold was wet. Awesome boulder problem to start, then some more fine technical climbing on surprisingly good rock.

Furthest right of the 12's on the Snake Eyes wall. Awesome boulder problem to jugs. I finished at the low anchor but there's an obvious extension that goes all the way to the top.

Left most route on the Snake Eyes wall. Pretty cool, with a tricky crux pulling over the roof.

Left most at the Beach. Strenuous laybacking up the crack feature leads to a few jugs, an interesting traverse/mantle, and a weirdly cool finishing boulder problem.

Rad route on the right side of the Last Turn crag. A bit spooky, and with elements of choss. Follows a very cool layback feature for almost its entire length.

Awesome bouldery route, like the rest of the stuff at the Beach. Maybe 25 feet tall? Frustrating little bugger though, took quite a few more tries than I thought it would.

On the left side of "The Beach". Great warm-up for the crag. Maybe a little on the soft side for 12a.

A hidden gem, top ten in the Poudre for sure. Given 11b and one star in the guidebook, but others have confirmed this is in the 12+ range. Took six tries! Rad route!

Had to do it! Now I can drive down the canyon without this thing nagging at me every time. Very cool route.

Nice route, but some painful finger locks.

Like a banana left on the counter too long, this one quickly turns to junk. But the first 25 feet are so good! I almost sent this a few years ago, but I ripped off a chunk of the upper boulder problem. Glad to finally clip the chains on this one.

Easy to put this together after doing Squeezing my will. Honestly this may be a touch harder than that one but not much. Certainly does not take it to 13c. Cool route!

Super fun. Very thankful for the large holds at the top!

This is probably the most repetitive climb I've ever done. First section: big moves between horizontals, three times in a row. Second section (crux): the same move three times in a row. Third section: 10a jug ladder for 50 feet. So fun!

One of the best, anywhere. Tough for me. Halloween ascent.

A frustrating and nearly impossible crux move that is definitely harder than any crux on Golden Boy. Very unique route!

Wildly steep with huge holds.

The moves on this are much more unique than they look from the ground. Nice run to the anchors at the end!

About as good as 5.8 gets

Incredibly huge holds and surprisingly steep

Pretty sustained but with a definite crux

Awesome features

One of the best in the RRG!

Beautiful rock, technical, with an obvious crux

Tons of variety and a cool chimney section

Cool fun route and the best warm up in the area

Best of the warm ups but also the hardest I'd say

Tough moves at the start

Easiest of the solar collector warm ups. Fun!

So unique and cool

Cool line but a bit over-hyped I'd say.

Chimney choss to a nice crack

Tricky stemming

Ultimate mank in the upper hand jams almost prevented me from sending. Pretty crack.

Great route, maybe the best crack at the wall.

Incredible! Had a long discussion with my friend about what the best sport climb in the US that we've ever done, and this was the consensus for both of us.

Great start to the trip. This thing is my style, I need to find more RRG climbs like this!

Needs to clean up more. Felt way hard, terrible warm up.

Just past the White Wall. Big holds through the crux, but sequential. Great barndoory overlaps and then a nice diagonalling finger rail. Cool climb!

Thirty meter route, but with a very short crux on PERFECT rock. Like Iceland.

Steep-ish and in your face. I was breathing hard. Over relatively quick though, then nice slab climbing.

Attempts to make you stay on the headwall, but seems very contrived that way. Easiest way is 10a, maybe easier.

Cool slab climb that rears to vertical near the top.

Great climb, do it don't just walk by it!

P1 only. Awesome, awesome pitch. Sustained and tricky.

Nice 3 pitch climb (probably could have been 2). Wanders around the right side of the Rincon wall and picks the best sections of rock. A storm blew in on the last pitch and my partner got stung by a wasp. But then it was cool cuz the sun came out and we got to watch birds fly around.

Linking the first two pitches makes an amazing long 5.9 pitch. The crux pitch is pretty cool, but there is some junky rock for sure. Hard to make the crux look pretty!

Beautiful alpine wall. Bivied the night before and got to the route before the sun came up. Splitter cracks galore! We did it in 7 pitches, including the two on the North Ridge.

Stellar, on the way up to the Gold wall. Awesome climb, has a very alpine feel to it.

Roadside, and semi-old school. Technical granite climbing on mostly good rock, with a spicy run out in the middle and a very different character for the upper half.

First route for me on the Diamond. Unquestionably classic, and for good reason. The rock is amazing except for the first pitch, and the climbing is sustained and exposed. We topped out Long's afterward and descended the Chasm View raps for a brutal 18.5 hour day. With snow climbing, simul-climbing up choss gullies, technical rock, and route-finding challenges it seemed appropriate to put this route under "mountaineering"

The 5.9 on the right of the warmup wall

Best 8 in the canyon!

Great name

Tricky, awkward, stemmy climbing on good rock.

Fantastic, pumpy climb that follows finger crack seam splitting clean rock, then to incredible glacial polish rock above.

Pumpy as hell. Don't underestimate this one!

Packs a punch for sure. Great edgy compression climbing on steep featured granite. I'll just call it a Poudre Falls 12c and leave it at that.

Instant Poudre classic! Some of the freshest, most innovative and creative movement to carry you to the top of this thing. Granite sport climbing doesn't get much better!

Great crack with a short crux, felt a bit easy for 5.11

Awesome clean granite jugs on the upper part.

Very reachy, with reachy clips. Nice route though

Awesome route, and great training for the stuff on the Diamond. Significantly easier approach (not having to do the Chimneys is HUGE), and a few less pitches. Directissima is a plum line up the Chasm View wall with 4 amazing pitches, each better and a bit harder than the last. At the end, you flop over right onto the Boulderfield where you can be gawked at by the hikers.

Mega! I'm officially dubbing this "The best rock climb I've ever done". Get out a stopwatch and have your belayer time 8 minutes of rest in the pod. It won't fail.

Striking line for sure, on blobby black rock with some resting pods thrown in. I thought it climbed a bit awkwardly, but maybe it is just not a good warm up.

Highball classic. Saunders sighting led to send.

Great problem on great stone.

Birthday climb. Beautiful route with lots of cool exposed positions. We finished with the last pitch of Outer Space, which is probably the best way to finish this except you have to move the belay.

Great route to end the trip. Walked up to a random climb that had some shade and it turned out to be this one.

The arete? Great climb, perfectly fits my style.

Beautiful rock with some cool variety.

Awesome route, very think-y

First route on the way in. Great intro to Penitente style. Desperately thin but feels reasonable with footwork

Awesome climb that stays shady a bit later than some. Feels like Eldo to me

Fun, scary to the 3rd bolt

Nice swooping wave of white limestone. Insane winds tried to blow me off but I persevered.

Fantastic! Straight from Iris. Wish it were longer

Wild movement. Maybe more like something out of Clear Creek? Very sequential. 12a/b in the book, I'll go with b.

Amazing creamy rock for the second half. Unfortunately the first half is terrible.

Nice thuggy moves through the overhang. Felt very much not-like-Shelf. 12a/b

Awesome wall. Very fun up high

Left of "Stairway to Heaven" at the Heaven crag. Really cool, sequential crux moving up and left out of the roof. 12a/b in the book but I thought it felt pretty hard, and definitely harder than the 12a/b it's next to.

Cool climb that is insanely slick!

Burly, kinda like climbing in Rifle. Handjamming out the crack is not the way to go!

Awesome problem. I matched the left crimp, heelhooked, and went up left hand.

This route has a reputation for being run out, and I think it earns it. The second pitch was disappointingly easy I thought, but still the whole thing was amazing. So many jugs on perfect rock!

Excellent pitch that is well protected. Tricky in a distinctly Eldo fashion

Left variation is 10a, right is 11a. After climbing a (sometimes) chossy wide-ish crack,this one moves right into a nice clean dihedral. I exited left at the top, but it looks like you have a variety of options.

Two pitch route on the Wind Tower. Quite a confusing sequence through the crux roof, I almost fell.

Cool climbing on bomber rock. I found a way to do the crux static because I'm too much of a wuss to lunge. Harder than many 12bs at Shelf and easier than many 12c's, so I guess b/c will do.

Seriously one of the best 11's in the land of good 11's

A bit better and easier than Arnold, in my opinion. Fun steep jugs on great rock.

Fun route on bullet rock with an awesome 3 move crux. I don't see how an 11a with a short V5/6 boulder problem in the middle adds up to 13a but whatever.

Great lieback crack with jugs. Can hang draws on a bunch of routes from this one.

At the North End. Pretty good route with some awesome rock at the top. Along the way you pass a fan shaped fossil embedded in a hold which is awesome.

Nice arete, very technical. I numbed out halfway through but managed to make it to the top.

First foray into the realms of headpointing. This one gets an R rating, which it may or may not deserve. Very cool climb, but broken up by a huge ledge in the middle. I found the upper part waaaay harder than the lower, though with better pro

Amazing problem I'd never heard of before in Joes. Just above Low Tide, starts on a ridiculous tufa and climbs huge holds on a steep boulder.

Not even close to flashing it

Holy crap amazing line! Can't believe I hadn't heard anything about this one before

Moved left at top to jug crack. Felt a bit easy. Great line though!

Nice intro for me to the climbing at LCC. Slick!

Good, real good.

Awesome route and my first in LCC. Totally different type of climbing than I'm used to. Did it in 4 pitches, but could be 3. The last pitch is a featureless slab with a chickenhead and bolt about every 20 feet. Scary!

Superb finger crack. Mega.

Hideously awkward corner to start, then primo crack climbing.

Certainly chossy, but despite getting zero stars in the book it's more interesting than some of the two star routes.

Two stars in the book? Definitely one of the worst I've climbed at shelf. Very chossy and squeezed

Two pitch climb done in one, needs a 70m to get back down! Amazingly unique rock on the vertical brown part below, with techy moves between crimps. Pitch 2 is airy, and very steep for 10c until you realize how gimoungous the holds are.

Great rock... felt like a St George area climb.

Nice.

Great route, questionable which version of the Gym Arete is better though. Both certainly worth doing.

This route is awesome. Incredibly fingery start into a baffling crux up high. No matter how dialed I had the upper crux, it was at best 50/50, and when I sent I actually fell but caught myself on the underclings and sidewalk and was able to give it another go. Significantly harder than any other 12c I've tried at Shelf!

A dream climb! My favorite limestone route for sure. Very action-oriented crux which is very satisfying to stick.

Very interesting climbing with lots of variety. I liked this more than the ten a few climbs to the left.

One of Shelf's best! I didn't feel it to be very run out at all, but I got sucked into the moves and forgot about that stuff.

Good times

For whatever reason, I didn't enjoy this as much as others. Nice and long, but I felt like it was really awkward. Topping out and standing above the cliff is worth doing.

Nice short climb. Beautiful pockets I wish there were more of this style in Shelf.

A crack, climbs nicely

Really nice climb, with a fun roof pull and then some classic vertical Shelf climbing

Very good indeed. Much like a Wild Iris climb. My hands numbed out about halfway up and finishing this thing was excruciating!

Great climb, except when the rock turns to choss at the top. There is a great beer placement about 8 feet up, if you want to keep your beer cold in this icy crack.

Decent little climb, with a good thin crux at the top. This felt very squeezed with its neighbor to the right, and I couldn't help but feel like I was cheating with a few holds I grabbed.

Very fun route, despite climbing through some choss at the start. Juggy and steep, with a sharp slab finish.

Awesome route. This started to turn into a nemesis rig about 4 years ago, so I left it alone, and fired it first go today after not trying for a few years.

Fun crack

A pretty good route. Powerful pull in the start, nice change of pace for Shelf. Somehow this is 12b in the guidebook, but it felt more like an 11, so I compromised here.

Awesome route on clean rock, with a very thin crux.

Great route with some good variety. Pocket pulling leads to crack climbing.

Awesome line. Long and continuous, with great technical movement.

My longest boulder project yet. I seriously never thought I would do this thing. Today, vengeance is mine!

A series of impossibly frustrating, good-but-not-good holds that all face the exact same direction. This climb is good, like really good. All except the first 40 feet, and the first boulder problem which I hate. Given 12d/13a in the guidebook, it feels solid at 13a to me but could be a bit height dependent (I'm not tall).

Awesome link up at the primo wall. A constant process of beta refinement, as with any route at Clear Creek.

Flows very well

One of the best! Did it on my 7th day on, pumped stupid.

Every route in Red Rocks is fun

Mega! Lifetime goal off the list. The climbing was as good as I could have possibly hoped for, and the approach just as heinous as everyone said. I was surprised by the number of bolts on it but definitely appreciated them with the dizzying exposure. We wanted to top it out but got stuck behind a few parties and ended up with not enough daytime. we did the standard first 7 pitches and then rapped.

Sort of reminiscent of the RRG. Improbably steep climbing for a 12a.

Incredible climb on beautiful jet black rock. Place gear in the crack but this is fully a face climb, and pretty easy at 5.9.

Very long and consistently interesting. More or less a jughaul with a couple surprisingly thin and technical sections thrown in.

Surprisingly tough at the start.

Wild climbing on mostly great holds. Kneebar helps for the low crux.

Great slab climbing. Not my style so this felt quite hard.

Not quite as good as the one next to it, but very fun.

For sure one of my favorites from Red Rocks. One of the longest single pitch climbs I've ever done, and its consistently interesting and varied. I couldn't decide whether to rest my arms or my calves on the way up!

The coolest looking line at the Gallery, and it climbs pretty well. Good project for me cuz I'm not good at this kind of stuff.

First route climbed at Red Rocks.

Super fun. Big holds all the way but pumpy!

I absolutely loved this route. Sick technical moves getting easier and easier as the pump builds.

Damn good of course.

An intricate, thuggy sequence. Very skin friendly holds!

fun

Amazing rock. Baffling crux that can be significantly tech'd down with sneaky beta.

I've looked at this one for a long time and finally got around to getting on it (and in the process replacing the bottom 6 hangers). Great climbing, mentally taxing because of the tenuous, low percentage nature of the crux at the top.

Definitely one of the better nines in the area. The runout after the 3rd bolt could be dangerous for a 5.9 climber

Long and continuous, with very cool crimps. The crux is super sequential and felt quite hard. I was happy to do this thing second go.

Three rope stretching pitches. Some good climbing, but tons of the typical Grey Rock scrambling for long stretches. Great views!

P1 only. Very scary! Incredibly clean granite slab climbing up to a nice finger crack. Long pitch, 70meter is mandatory to be lowered back down. I'll have to return for P2 but will need balls of steel

Good climb on clean rock with a short crux. Don't get sucked into the crack to the left or you will fall and get made fun of.

Rad climbing on this one. Four parts, all deceptive and tricky, with lay down rests in between.

Best 5.8 sport climb I've been on in quite some time

Very clean, vertical rock. Huge pull off a mono for the crux.

Nice climb in a good position. Can't be 12a

Great climb, pretty long for wild iris.

Six pitches the way we did it. Awesome spire in Rocky Mountain Park with some good rock and some choss. Cool summit

Left of Rapid Fire. Pretty good

Great rock

A nice break from the standard pocket pulling fare. This one involves some delicate slabbery.

No real crux but it's very continuous, and sneaky steep.

Despite it's shortness, a striking line in an awesome position at the top of the main wall. Good climbing too.

I wanted this to be as cool as Zorro, but the crux at the top is just so sharp! Still amazing, but it's more like 60 feet of 11a to a brutally sharp two finger pocket bulge crux.

Perfect rock on a really aesthetic buttress. One of the best from my trip.

Incredible. Wild roof climbing 50 feet off the deck. 11d to no hands rest to V3 boulder problem does not add up to 12c.

Right of "One eyed fellina", but I can't really remember the name. Superb climbing!

All the makings of a classic 5.10. Lots of good stuff on this one.

By far my favorite climb from my trip to Iris. First time doing hard mono pulls and I did not think it would go down as quickly as it did. Wild!

*Coyote Vacuum*. I really liked this route. Very un-wild iris-ey. Took me as many goes as Silver Belly

Awkward start to amazing climbing on the prow. Very exposed feeling up there.

Cool pillar climb that I found to be a bit awkward. Maybe that's just me though.

The taller wall left of Court and spark. Maybe I'm wrong about the name?

Great climb with a beautiful headwall at the top.

Classic-seeming.

It's all just an approach to the bar. Spur of the moment alpine FA, made with Adam Fisher. Done while camping at the Chimneys area of Burly Mountain in the Elk Range of Colorado. After scrambling up a choss ramp, this takes one of two prominent fin aretes to the top of the chimneys. Done in two pitches, with plenty of frightening choss, routefinding, runouts, and great movement to be found along the way. Did it in mountaineering boots, with a not quite adequate selection of gear to say the least. This is actually a good climb that would be worth the approach for, and after cleaning some loose rock and bringing a full rack would probably not be R rated.

Cool, long and schizophrenic climb. Surprisingly the roof at the start is not the crux

Stellar rock. Balancy with tons of sidepulls. Worth a trip to the little eiger for.

The climbing in the corner is awesome, but it only makes up about half the route. Definitely worth doing.

Very cool little gem of a 12a. Worth the hike for the unique blobby holds and cool movement. Pretty short but pumpy

Good one... fun power moves down low. Holds are a bit more positive and crimpy than most of the Anarchy stuff

Worthwhile... cool kneebar up top

This has been on the list for a long time. Not nearly as intimidating as people made it out to be. Three five star pitches, including the first two of Bastille Crack linked. Excellent exposure, movement, and rock.

First tried in 2008 and always irked me that I didn't do it. Finally made my way back east and was happy to get back on this awesome line.

Feet slick as glass. Harder than it looks

Roadside. As in, if you are not careful you will certainly be hit by a car while putting your shoes on.

Nice arete with a really long reach to sidepull crimp. Took some figurin'

Great line. Traverse right on an amazing crimp rail, then back left up the arete.

Short and fierce.

No gear for the first 20 feet or so. Bolted anchors

Awesome long pitch of mostly 5.9 climbing with a short reachy crux.

Great single pitch crack. Slightly tricky pro at the crux

3 sublimely awesome granite pitches. Great view, great rock