Sophie Ma

40m of amazing climbing! The first pitch has the best moves in my opinion, the second is a lot of tiring lay-backing in mostly good sidepulls/underclings with bad feet. Rather steep and blocky terrain. Often dripping, but the wet holds are good enough ;) 2nd Go.

Cool knee-bar crux, very unique! Not the best line, but some nice moves!

Wuuuhuuuu! Proud ascent of this amazing route. It can't really get any better. Demanding 40m endurance climb with several cruxes with really cool moves of quite different character that demand almost all your climbing skills. For sure one of the best routes in this part of the wall. Thanks to everyone who supported me on this journey with pushing me to try, patient belays, beta hints (especially for resting positions in kneebars), cheering, and sharing the excitement!

Nice face climbing on good crimps.

Cool technical lay-back and crag climbing. Thanks for beta, Synne!

Rather short and intense, but some cool moves.

Cool to get the feeling of climbing in the roof. One outstanding hard move, for which your wing span should probably be at least 175cm. The rest is easier, but not effortless.

Well protected technical slab. Cool moves!

Another must do! So much amazing climbing just in this line!

Hard to grade, because it is just very tricky and beta intense...I think 7b is fine, but I would also take it as 7a. Just very special. But one of the must-do lines for sure! 2nd Go.

One of the best 8a+ I've ever climbed! Perfect mix of technique, power and endurance. 2nd Go. Thanks Ruusu for the draws, beta, and ticking <3

Distinct crux as a sloper travers. Doesn't get easier in the mid-day sun.

Must Do!

For me the hardest moves were in the 7c part, the extension is "just" demanding for endurance, but not too cruxy. Whatever the grade might be....amazing climb, do it! 2nd Go

Aaaaamazing!!! Straight version (not going to the left) in the top part - a bit harder but in my opinion still 7c. 2nd Go.

Highly recommended! Very technical, but still physical demanding climbing with special body positions. For me a benchmark 7c+. At this time of the year only enjoyable in the morning.

Climbed the version which starts left of Utan tvekan and then ends with UT (same ankor as Utan smör). I see, that this was discussed in here which combo is actually meant...but to me it seems like this should be the route I climbed, and the ending with Papillon is indicated here as "Utan tvekan direktutsteg". Whatever - doesn't matter. But for the combo I climbed, I think 7c is more appropriate. Didn't feel harder the UT and still easier than Siddharta to me. But good climbing either way :)

Not much harder than Ängladans, just way more tricky to find the holds. 2nd Go.

Quite squeezed in between Panta and Imperiet, but also as good as all the routes on this amazing wall. In comparison to some of the quite tough 7c's on this wall rather 7b+. Crux for me was from the last draw to ankor. Quite hard to read...2nd Go.

Powerful on mostly good holds. Rather easy 8a - for a person coming from Frankenjura at least. Proud of the good mindset I got myself in for the sent.

Good mixture of technical and powerful. One of the few routes which are dry at this time of the year.

What a journey! Probably the best route of this crag.

Cool boulder with the ankor already in your face. Quite tricky when you can't rech the higher crimp with your left immediately. NIce rote overall! 2nd Go; without top out.

Good and sustained climbing, several hard parts which demand different skills and good rests in between. Be prepared for some shoulder moves! 2nd Go, but with using the two big sidehold-jugs on the right side of the third draw which are also used in Siddharta. I wonder that this was not yet discussed here...feels like its fine to use them, as you could even clip from there, but also a bit strange, as they are definitely (also) part of Sid. I will try it again without - heard that there is a beta for climbing straight up.

Hard and scary. Not recommended for 6b as limit.

Super nice! Technical and crimpy start, then physical climbing on the arret with mantle finish.

2nd Go. Hard and crimpy, not many footholds. But cool moves anyways.

2nd Go Cool Moves, but very special moves between the big blocks.

2nd Go Cruxy, then amazing 7a-climbing in the upper part. The crux is probably easier the longer your wingspan is.

2nd Go

Don't get distracted by the name - the main part is more face climbing than using the arret.

Amazing, technical climb on crimps! 2nd Go.

Ecopoint! 🚅🚌💚

Good climbing with a quite special crux sequence on gastones with too high feet. The name doesn't describe it well though. A bit easier in the top-part and no-hand-rest before that.