Patrick Demus

Committing to the first move is essential.

On my 3rd try I could eventually convince myself not to exit through mambo, but to go straight up and out

Once I got to the shelf I used the bolt from the tour on the left. Following the original bolt line seems a lot harder then 6c. See Peter Hammer's FA comment.

I had a solid rope gun (thanks Tommi) with me, who showed me how to climb it.

Easier than "pingviini"

If climbed without any holds of the easy route next to it (as it should be), it is definitely harder than "bukowski".

I had tried it last year and had to sit in the crux. Today I managed the route in the first go. Very technical. I like!

A bit more interesting to climb straight up without the big jugs to the right in the 2nd third of the route.

a little awkward

If you hold the edge after the 4th bolt you will miss a few cool and harder moves to the 5th (last) bolt. In my opinion the route doesn't count as climbed properly if you use the edge to the right.

To scatchy to place gear, I think

I placed a red cam for the run out to relax my nerves...

It's nice to finish the last section a bit right of the last bolt

Sometime around 2005