Matthias Lang

first you climb a slam roof with a finger-crack, then easily up to an awesome steep hand-crack...but if you don't carry the correct gear you have to change left and climb a horrible chimney up to the anker :)

nice long trad-route, actually did the first 2 pitches together...first pitch you climb a perfect paralello-hand-crack to a platform...then follow a finger-crack which you can climb like a chimney with the help of a big flake...then another platform and you fight up the last metres through an anyoning off-width :)

another nice doble-crack

great route with some metre on a fingercrack

tecnical start on a slab (not easy to protect) followed by crack & chimney climbing

nice crack climbing and a really long pitch...we had to improvise the rappel with our 50m-rope to gain the ground

nice long route (30m) with many many cracks up the "Wig"...clean climbing again :)

funny, short roofcrack, which you protect with 2-3 friends...looked much harder than it was :)

great diagonal crack on the backside of Sasso de Remenno

6a+/~410m/10 pitches -- really nice alpine-route at "Dimore degli Dei" wall. climbed it together with Ben & led all the pitches...Pitch 2 is already the crux-pitch (7-/40m) and at pitch 3 you have an endless beautiful crack (6+/40m)...then you follow up a huge corner, make a slab-traverse before you climb the exposed last pitches

3 pitches, 90m, 6b+ THE eyecatcher on "Sergent-Wall", 3 pitches of desperately off-width climbing on a huge left-winding crack ;) ...climbed it together with Strong-Tom, on-sighted all the pitches & led no. 1 & no. 3. Pitch 1 is a good warm-up with a no-hand-position in the middle. Pitch 2 starting with a though vertical corner, followed by traversing the left-winding off-width. At pitch 3 you climb up vertical again and then squeeze inside the crack when it starts again to go left to the abseil-platform.

great pitch along a superb parallelo-crack

15 pitches, 450m, E.D. Inf. climbed free ;) THE route on the Jebel Rum East Face which catches the eye, great & epic!!! hard cracks, corners & off-widths at the beginning of the centre-wall. Originally parts were climbed with aid, especially pitch 5 (6c) is really serious with poor protection when climbed free. Niki, Peter & me climbed it together, i red-pointed all the pitches + led no. 5 (the serious crux-pitch), 6, 12 & 13 :) The middlepart is scary too with slabs, poor protection & loose rock. The headwall is climbed by winding left to the "Fire-Exit-Chimneys", where you're just very deep inside Jebel Rum ;) Then you get out of it and can look down throught the "Eye of Allah", where originally starts the abseiling. we then had a scary abseiling through the night and unknown terrain :)

6b/~350m/7-8 pitches (4/6a/6b/6a/6a/6b/6a/4) "If you like crack-climbing, do Lionheart!" (some Czech-climbers) ...great line along some crack & corner-systems up the Abu Aina Towers, really sustainted and hard for the grade... climbed it together with Niki & Peter, onsighted all the pitches & led no. 1, 2 & 3. In Pitch 1 & 2 (4 & 6a) you climb up a good chimney and you can do them in one pitch. Pitch 3 (6b/~45m) is a kingline, first you have great finger-locks up a crack in a corner, then climb up chimney (where you can stay until the end of the pitch) and then change to a really exposed arete. I think the best pitch i've ever led. Pitch 4 (6a) has a slightly overhanging wide crack (camelot no.4) which seemed much harder than 6a for me and then a slab. Pitch 5 (6a) is just an endless corner with perfect jams to get at another chimney at pitch 6 (6b) from where you finallely traverse to the headwall for exposed slab-climbing at pitch 7 (6a) and an easy last pitch (4) to gain the top of the Abu-Aina-Towers... Just an awesome route!!!

6a/~100m/3 pitches (5/5+/6a) a really nice line which we found when we were soloing "Sabbah's Route" to get to the South Summit of Jebel Khush Khashah. We came back the next day & just tried to climb it. Pitch 1 (5) is a dirty off-width & chimney, pitch 2 (5+) goes up a scary vertical mushroom-wall, so there's a lot off loose rock and bad protection. Then you make stance in a little cave from where you start for pitch 3 (6a), an amazing blank corner with a parallel crack with lots off good hand & fist jams. Climbed it together with Niki, we onsighted all the pitches, he led no. 1 & 3, i led no. 2.

6a+/~150m/5 pitches (5+/6a/6a+/5+/5) incredible steep crack-line with perfect protection and lots off face-holds. Climbed it together with Madhou (who led his first trad-lead) & led all the pitches except pitch 1.

5/~100m/3 pitches (?) an obvious climb up the Arche Tower from the Remy-brothers, so it's adventureous & scary ;) we just climbed the first pitch (5/corner) but then didn't know how to continue...the abseil was confusing & dangerous too ;)

6c/~100m/3 pitches (6a+/6c/6a) a HUGE corner at Jebel Kharazeh...sustainted & pumpy climbing at pitch 1 to a good ledge. Pitch 2 (6c/35-40m) goes up further the corner but the crack is really fine & the walls are blank. Climbed it together with Peter & Madhou but didn't red-point pitch 2, where i had a huge 8-metres-whipper only held by a 0.3 camelot ;)

6b/~180m/5 pitches (5+/6b/5/5-/6a+) 5 fine pitches at the Jebel Rum East Face, pitch 2 (6b/crack with the crux at the end) and pitch 5 (6a+/up a fine flake) are the best... climbed it together with Peter & Madhou (his first trad-route), on-sighted all the pitches & led no. 2,3 & 4.

6a/~200m/5 pitches The name says it all!!! just a unique route up the west-face of Jebel um Ejil. Climbed it together with Peter & led pitch no. 1, 3 & 5. At pitch 5 (incredible off-width) you normally get nice afternoon-sun and the following two pitches (4+ & 2/3) to the top you can easily solo ;)

5c/~120m/3 or 4 pitches really nice warm-up route on Jebel Rum east-face to get used to the rock & the style of climbing... climbed it together with Peter and led pitch no. 2 (5c/40m) where you climb up a fine corner and than change to a nice finger-crack and follow this to a platform. That's the "Goldfinger"--> great pitch!!!

4/~350m/free-solo -- impressive experience...great long route up a logical crack-system...did it two times free-solo, the first time in about 40 min., the second time in about 30 min.

6a+/355m/9 pitches -- great route with great cracks

5/128m/4 pitches -- superb route up the Svolvaergaita...climbed it with Peter & just led the last pitch to the summit when there came a huge thunderstorm & i got quite wet at the hang-belay on the top...no jump this time :)

6b+/22m -- very technical climbing up a dihedral...was belaying Niki at the first try, so no on-sight, but Ben did it solo later :)

6c+/14m -- excellent finger-locks up a steep crack with some technical metres at the end

6+ (Norvegean Grade), 70m, 2 pitches ...awesome huge crack in a blank wall high on "Vågakallen". You can easily see the route from the camp at "Paradiset", but the approach up there is really though (we called it vegetation-climbing in the 6th grade)... Peter climbed the first pitch (6a+/25m) which is a corner followed by a small roof and some vertical metres with great hand & fist-jamming. I led the huge second pitch (6b/45m) along the off-width, but didn't red-point it because it felt much much harder, about 6c/7a in my opinion (so i choose top-rope as ascent type)...at the platform after the crack we stopped, because the Lofoten guide-book didn't have any information about the next pitches...but it should be possible to continue i guess :)

5+/14m -- nice trad-pitch up a huge beach-boulder...next time solo :)

6c+/135m/4 pitches (6b+/6b/6c+/4) -- hard & sustained climbing up the steep Jonfru Pillaren... climbed it with Tom & Niki on a real windy day: i led pitch 1 (piaz, finger crack & traverse), Niki pitch 2 (groove, off-width, overhang & hand-jams, probably 7a) & Tom pitch 3 (slab with fine cracks & a super-steep handcrack at the end)...pitch 4 is easy, but we were really distroyed on the top :)

6b+/~80m/3 pitches -- nice route with a steep finger & hand crack at pitch 3.

6a+/~90m/3 pitches (5+/6a+/5) -- funny route which goes up nice corners, then a little roof at pitch 2 & zig-zag-cracks at pitch 3.

6a/30m -- really futuristic crack up a steep wall...looks much harder than it is, lots off face-holds :)

6b/~460m/11-12 pitches -- incredible route on Presten...a real voyage, especially the "Slannting Corner" pitch is good as hell. climbed it with Tom (we changed lead at every pitch) in about 7 hours (we started at 1 pm)...you never have stress with the time there in summer, so we made lots off smoking-breaks ;)

4+ (or ~6b at pitch no.3)/100m/3 pitches -- nice & easy route up the Gandalfveggen, at pitch 3 you can directly climb trough the tricky "eagle-nest-roof" to make it a little more difficult :)

6b/95m/2 pitches -- two really good pitches (6b & 6a) up the Gandalfveggen. climbed it with Tom & abseiled on a huge 100m fixed rope...let's do another route :)

4/236m/7 pitches -- nice warm-up route with everything you need: corners, finger & hand cracks, flakes...should be great to climb it solo, but you also would have to down-climb it....climbed it with Tom together with Peter & Gabriel, the approach through Djupfjord is beautiful as well & you find lots off blueberries :)