Matthias Lang

overhanging start with jugs, then passage with crimps and to the top. managed to recover by BREATHING at the end hahaha ;)

warm-up on pockets

great dihedral to stem up, at the end pumpy traverse to the left...awesome doing sport-climbing in austria in march!!! next time "midian direkt"!!!

nice boulder on crimps at the beginning, then beautiful moves on good holds to the top

nice boulder up the first 3 quick-draws, then a beautiful & balancy arete and two easy roofs at the end...FLASH!!! :)

nice warm-up route with chimney, crimps and pockets

awesome 20 metres of dihedral-climbing with nearly no holds and a lot of hard steming and crazy foot-positions, then the really intimitating roof which you climb up using a brutal lay-back-finger-crack followed by a strange mantle...my first 5.12a ONSIGHT!!! What a day :)

awesome long & sustainted route with lovely holds

perfect, long warm-up on perfect lime-stone

nice vertical route with a complicated crux on tiny incut-limestone-crimps

long, lovely & sustainted route with goes up 35 metres. the first half you climb overhanging stalactites to a good rest and then more vertical and technical climb on tufas up to the chains

steep, overhanging & pumpy climb on stalactites with a crux on perfect crimps at the end and a really hard position to clip the chains...at left entrance of Cueva San Cayetano/3rd try

nice climb on tufas...short, funny and not too steep, actually the easiest route (the only 5.10) at Cueva de San Cayetano

2nd try (but should have been a flash)...nice short, overhanging route with a bouldery crux --> good sideholds plus a heelhook, then a huge move, then but your feet up and catch a tiny, bad crimp and from there a fast move to a good incut, then clip and keep it together to the chains.

nice warm-up on great holds

awesome route...long and sustainted with one sweet crux where you have to crimp a small sidehold

nice warm-up climb about 20 meters up the beautiful arete, then a good rest to finally conquer the big roof with some huge bouldery moves

nice vertical slab with great pockets and 2 easy overhangs at the top

some hard moves on crimps and 1-finger-pockets, then good rest, again hard moves + good rest...and so on :)

nice corner

scary climb up the first quick-draw...then keeping it together with a bad crimps and an undercling

nice finger crack then crux with a bad crimp

crux up to the first quick-draw

fiesta de crimps

5.10a; nice free-solo on this great route following a good crack up "el capitán calzón"

nice vertical climb on great holds...then a mental runout from the last bolt to the chains

2nd try...a short, bouldery route just about 8 metres high...still it's got beautiful moves on crimps, under-clings, slopers and a huge dyno to a pocket-jug to leave the roof :)

my first 3 bolts in my life, thank's a lot urs for teaching me!!! nice, vertical warm-up-route at "La Cueva de Chipilin"/Cuarto y Medio Dinamo :)

chingónnn, just an amazing route...my mexican project at my 4th session in "la cueva" finally came to an end!!! first you start through a funny overhang with beautiful sustained moves for the first 4 quickdraws trying not to get pumped...and then starts the crux-section for the next 2 quick-draw with some huge horizontal movements where you have to keep it together and make all kind of wired hooks, finally at the end you have to push really hard along a steep crack up to the chains, screaming included :)

one of the most beautiful pocket-routes!!! long and sustained, really fun!!!

nice little slab for warm-up...jaja route no.1 in the guide-book

nice little overhang at the start, then nice slab-climbing and a technical finish up to the chains (with quite bad rock, so cat-mode!!!)

great start with huge jugs...then the crux along a crimp-rail and some pockets

nice short route at the entrance of "the cave"...technical climbing on crimps and pocket with the crux right before the chains...2nd try (however i have to confess that i grapped the chains for clipping)...

same start like "el chaneque" but easier finish

soloing a nice chimney to get on the top of the spire (el pilar)...niiice view of the Peñas de Dexcani from above :)

one of the BEST routes in Jilo...4th try...starts with a cool V3-boulder to the first quick-draw, followed by a no-hand-rest on a ledge. then you climb up a steep, slightly overhanging dark wall with nobs until you get to a huge rail (actually this is a huuuge embedded pebble). from here starts the crux (aprox. a V4-boulder) where you have to crimp hard, put your foot up high and continiue crimping up to the next good rail. then just keeping it together with awesome slab-climbing on nobs to the chains...a masterpiece (i would give more than 3 stars)...now syced for "El Nahual"!!!

THE line at 1° Dinamo, an amazing route through the big roof...little bouldery start with a tricky mantle, then a good rest before you climb up a roof-crack and finish with some great big movements to the chains...2nd go, could have flashed it without 2 weeks of pause before, haha ;)

perfect short boulder-route...easy overhanging- climbing up the first 3 quick-draws and then starts the action: cross to a good crimp and match another crimp with you left hand, move your foots up high and make a heel-hook in a hole, then a big move with your right to a bad crimp, match a 2-finger-side-crimp with your left hand, remove the hook and make a short dead-point move with right to the good crimp, then clip the 4th quick-draw and just keeping it together to the top :) unfortunately the first 2 bolt are very bad (never felt there, but i'm gonna change them), but the 3rd bolt where you have your whippers is ok!

nice little warm-up route at this impressive huge cave...now psyched for "Trauma" 5.13a

first you climb a slam roof with a finger-crack, then easily up to an awesome steep hand-crack...but if you don't carry the correct gear you have to change left and climb a horrible chimney up to the anker :)

nice long trad-route, actually did the first 2 pitches together...first pitch you climb a perfect paralello-hand-crack to a platform...then follow a finger-crack which you can climb like a chimney with the help of a big flake...then another platform and you fight up the last metres through an anyoning off-width :)

the line which first catches the eye at Primer Dinamo...a big roof with nice movements on good holds...haha, unfortunately just 2nd go...had a big fail at my flash-try falling just under the anker, getting pumped & not seeing anything because of the sun)...100% kremstal-style ;)

scary start...then a bit of endurance at the slab

quite hard boulder up the first bolt...then following up the crack is just a dream...did it 2 times :)

nice little route with a funny boulder-start and another little overhang below the anker

nice complicated start up the first 3 quick-draws...then relaxed climbing

2nd try...technical steep slab-climbing with great crimps

2nd try...nice technical slab with bad crimps and a dynmic move

2nd try...the roof some metres to the right of "Valientes"...some funny moves up a corner-crack followed by some campusing along the roof :)

nice little route with a funny crux at the beginning...some metres left of "Valientes"

nice long route on great conglomerate-rock with funny holds & good rests

2nd try, nearly could have done an on-sight. incredible vertical-slightly overhanging route with sharp crimps

boulder-start to the first quick-draw followed by technical slab-climbing

the left variation of this beautiful roof...pretty much the same difficulty like the right-one & equally beautiful

another go on this incredible short-route

crazy route...25 metres through overhanging stalactites. had a really good on-sight-go to the last quick-draw, but sent it the next day easily :)

the only vertical and easy route at "La Chonta"...fine crux at beginning on slopers followed by a really long route

another nice doble-crack

great route with some metre on a fingercrack

tecnical start on a slab (not easy to protect) followed by crack & chimney climbing

nice crack climbing and a really long pitch...we had to improvise the rappel with our 50m-rope to gain the ground

long route up a slab

nice route on a exposed pillar

don't know the name of the route yet. nice slap with perfect crimps & pockets, at the crux you have to pull on a one-finger-pocket :)

don't know the name of the route yet. nice technical slab to gain a beautiful corner...

just an awesome route through an impressive roof...easy start, then with an undercling and a sloper you catch the edge of the roof and make some (campus)-moves to the top...really boulder-like & looks much harder than the grade :)

easy warm-up, my first climb at beautiful zigeunerloch...failed later trying to flash "mini-cooper" during rain ;)

nice long route (30m) with many many cracks up the "Wig"...clean climbing again :)

nice paralello-crack climbed with 2 friends...unfortunately bolted & just 10m high ;)

again pooockets

tall moves on good pockets

nice long route up a flake + pockets ;)

long route on pockets

long steep route on pockets

nice wall with pooockets

beautiful sustainted route with amazing rock...

nice & short route...using the new rope for the first time

some metres to the right from "Los Gnomos", don't know the name & grade...technical wall climbing on under-clings up to an arete...from there a scary (a moving bolt) & pumpy (overhanging with heel-hooking-action) traverse to the top...

nice route!!! hard wall-climbing up to the 4th quick-draw...then easy metres to the top on really bizzare rock :)

funny, short roofcrack, which you protect with 2-3 friends...looked much harder than it was :)

just a unspectacular warm-up-route, at least a flash ;)

pockets and more pockets ;)

great line up a blue sinter

funny, but wet

great diagonal crack on the backside of Sasso de Remenno

6a+/~410m/10 pitches -- really nice alpine-route at "Dimore degli Dei" wall. climbed it together with Ben & led all the pitches...Pitch 2 is already the crux-pitch (7-/40m) and at pitch 3 you have an endless beautiful crack (6+/40m)...then you follow up a huge corner, make a slab-traverse before you climb the exposed last pitches

3 pitches, 90m, 6b+ THE eyecatcher on "Sergent-Wall", 3 pitches of desperately off-width climbing on a huge left-winding crack ;) ...climbed it together with Strong-Tom, on-sighted all the pitches & led no. 1 & no. 3. Pitch 1 is a good warm-up with a no-hand-position in the middle. Pitch 2 starting with a though vertical corner, followed by traversing the left-winding off-width. At pitch 3 you climb up vertical again and then squeeze inside the crack when it starts again to go left to the abseil-platform.

great pitch along a superb parallelo-crack

15 pitches, 450m, E.D. Inf. climbed free ;) THE route on the Jebel Rum East Face which catches the eye, great & epic!!! hard cracks, corners & off-widths at the beginning of the centre-wall. Originally parts were climbed with aid, especially pitch 5 (6c) is really serious with poor protection when climbed free. Niki, Peter & me climbed it together, i red-pointed all the pitches + led no. 5 (the serious crux-pitch), 6, 12 & 13 :) The middlepart is scary too with slabs, poor protection & loose rock. The headwall is climbed by winding left to the "Fire-Exit-Chimneys", where you're just very deep inside Jebel Rum ;) Then you get out of it and can look down throught the "Eye of Allah", where originally starts the abseiling. we then had a scary abseiling through the night and unknown terrain :)

6b/~350m/7-8 pitches (4/6a/6b/6a/6a/6b/6a/4) "If you like crack-climbing, do Lionheart!" (some Czech-climbers) ...great line along some crack & corner-systems up the Abu Aina Towers, really sustainted and hard for the grade... climbed it together with Niki & Peter, onsighted all the pitches & led no. 1, 2 & 3. In Pitch 1 & 2 (4 & 6a) you climb up a good chimney and you can do them in one pitch. Pitch 3 (6b/~45m) is a kingline, first you have great finger-locks up a crack in a corner, then climb up chimney (where you can stay until the end of the pitch) and then change to a really exposed arete. I think the best pitch i've ever led. Pitch 4 (6a) has a slightly overhanging wide crack (camelot no.4) which seemed much harder than 6a for me and then a slab. Pitch 5 (6a) is just an endless corner with perfect jams to get at another chimney at pitch 6 (6b) from where you finallely traverse to the headwall for exposed slab-climbing at pitch 7 (6a) and an easy last pitch (4) to gain the top of the Abu-Aina-Towers... Just an awesome route!!!

6a/~100m/3 pitches (5/5+/6a) a really nice line which we found when we were soloing "Sabbah's Route" to get to the South Summit of Jebel Khush Khashah. We came back the next day & just tried to climb it. Pitch 1 (5) is a dirty off-width & chimney, pitch 2 (5+) goes up a scary vertical mushroom-wall, so there's a lot off loose rock and bad protection. Then you make stance in a little cave from where you start for pitch 3 (6a), an amazing blank corner with a parallel crack with lots off good hand & fist jams. Climbed it together with Niki, we onsighted all the pitches, he led no. 1 & 3, i led no. 2.

6a+/~150m/5 pitches (5+/6a/6a+/5+/5) incredible steep crack-line with perfect protection and lots off face-holds. Climbed it together with Madhou (who led his first trad-lead) & led all the pitches except pitch 1.

5/~100m/3 pitches (?) an obvious climb up the Arche Tower from the Remy-brothers, so it's adventureous & scary ;) we just climbed the first pitch (5/corner) but then didn't know how to continue...the abseil was confusing & dangerous too ;)

6c/~100m/3 pitches (6a+/6c/6a) a HUGE corner at Jebel Kharazeh...sustainted & pumpy climbing at pitch 1 to a good ledge. Pitch 2 (6c/35-40m) goes up further the corner but the crack is really fine & the walls are blank. Climbed it together with Peter & Madhou but didn't red-point pitch 2, where i had a huge 8-metres-whipper only held by a 0.3 camelot ;)

6b/~180m/5 pitches (5+/6b/5/5-/6a+) 5 fine pitches at the Jebel Rum East Face, pitch 2 (6b/crack with the crux at the end) and pitch 5 (6a+/up a fine flake) are the best... climbed it together with Peter & Madhou (his first trad-route), on-sighted all the pitches & led no. 2,3 & 4.

6a/~200m/5 pitches The name says it all!!! just a unique route up the west-face of Jebel um Ejil. Climbed it together with Peter & led pitch no. 1, 3 & 5. At pitch 5 (incredible off-width) you normally get nice afternoon-sun and the following two pitches (4+ & 2/3) to the top you can easily solo ;)

5c/~120m/3 or 4 pitches really nice warm-up route on Jebel Rum east-face to get used to the rock & the style of climbing... climbed it together with Peter and led pitch no. 2 (5c/40m) where you climb up a fine corner and than change to a nice finger-crack and follow this to a platform. That's the "Goldfinger"--> great pitch!!!

4/~350m/free-solo -- impressive experience...great long route up a logical crack-system...did it two times free-solo, the first time in about 40 min., the second time in about 30 min.

6a+/355m/9 pitches -- great route with great cracks

5/128m/4 pitches -- superb route up the Svolvaergaita...climbed it with Peter & just led the last pitch to the summit when there came a huge thunderstorm & i got quite wet at the hang-belay on the top...no jump this time :)

6b+/22m -- very technical climbing up a dihedral...was belaying Niki at the first try, so no on-sight, but Ben did it solo later :)

6c+/14m -- excellent finger-locks up a steep crack with some technical metres at the end

6+ (Norvegean Grade), 70m, 2 pitches ...awesome huge crack in a blank wall high on "Vågakallen". You can easily see the route from the camp at "Paradiset", but the approach up there is really though (we called it vegetation-climbing in the 6th grade)... Peter climbed the first pitch (6a+/25m) which is a corner followed by a small roof and some vertical metres with great hand & fist-jamming. I led the huge second pitch (6b/45m) along the off-width, but didn't red-point it because it felt much much harder, about 6c/7a in my opinion (so i choose top-rope as ascent type)...at the platform after the crack we stopped, because the Lofoten guide-book didn't have any information about the next pitches...but it should be possible to continue i guess :)

5+/14m -- nice trad-pitch up a huge beach-boulder...next time solo :)

6c+/135m/4 pitches (6b+/6b/6c+/4) -- hard & sustained climbing up the steep Jonfru Pillaren... climbed it with Tom & Niki on a real windy day: i led pitch 1 (piaz, finger crack & traverse), Niki pitch 2 (groove, off-width, overhang & hand-jams, probably 7a) & Tom pitch 3 (slab with fine cracks & a super-steep handcrack at the end)...pitch 4 is easy, but we were really distroyed on the top :)

6b+/~80m/3 pitches -- nice route with a steep finger & hand crack at pitch 3.

6a+/~90m/3 pitches (5+/6a+/5) -- funny route which goes up nice corners, then a little roof at pitch 2 & zig-zag-cracks at pitch 3.

6a/30m -- really futuristic crack up a steep wall...looks much harder than it is, lots off face-holds :)

6b/~460m/11-12 pitches -- incredible route on Presten...a real voyage, especially the "Slannting Corner" pitch is good as hell. climbed it with Tom (we changed lead at every pitch) in about 7 hours (we started at 1 pm)...you never have stress with the time there in summer, so we made lots off smoking-breaks ;)

4+ (or ~6b at pitch no.3)/100m/3 pitches -- nice & easy route up the Gandalfveggen, at pitch 3 you can directly climb trough the tricky "eagle-nest-roof" to make it a little more difficult :)

6b/95m/2 pitches -- two really good pitches (6b & 6a) up the Gandalfveggen. climbed it with Tom & abseiled on a huge 100m fixed rope...let's do another route :)

4/236m/7 pitches -- nice warm-up route with everything you need: corners, finger & hand cracks, flakes...should be great to climb it solo, but you also would have to down-climb it....climbed it with Tom together with Peter & Gabriel, the approach through Djupfjord is beautiful as well & you find lots off blueberries :)

tricky slab at the beginning, then nice dyno at the crux

overhanging, short & funny

it was a hard fight :)

short, good pockets & overhanging

short & funny route

technical slab

starts with some hard piaz-boulder-moves and finishes up through a nice corner

a classic...the first route at Ewige Jagdgründe...2nd try

crux through the roof

short, good holds & overhanging