Jani Lehtola

More moves more training

Not that bad once you find the good holds and right foot holds.

A nice variation to Peppu. Climbed accidentally with ML start

Topped this out for training purposes only. Quite horrible holds on this one like on other easier ones on this block

Matching to the crimp dyno felt a lot easier. Nice move still

Considerably easier now than in 2019 I last tried this briefly. Nice climb still though

Maybe a bit tougher than regular version, adds just two moves though

With bigger holds on very bad friction the line climbed quite well

Nice font like topout in the heat and humidity

A bit slippery in the heat, but nice moves and climbs well. Hook solved the 1st move quite nicely.

Very nice moves on good sandstone

Climbs better than it looks

Finally!! 30 days over 8 years. Nice, hard moves and tricky transitions between the moves. Every lost second adds up the further you get, which makes the problem so interesting.

One of the best in here, almost like in Font!

Pretty ok warmup on a very cold day

One of the best on this difficulty range! Climbs so well!

Simply superb!

Really nice climbing on quite steep and somewhat good rock. A bit soft or not, depends on the beta

Climbs better than it looks. A nice warm up or cool down problem

Simply one of the best I’ve climbed here. Nice compression moves on a bit rough holds and delicate topout. Needed good friction which was hard to find.

The start is quite morpho and a bit harder if you can’t reach to the good hold. Luckily there are options and the whole line climbs really well.

A bit spicy but nice two mover

Nice, a bit tricky start with unique topout. Somewhere in the 7B/+ territory

Right shoe for the heel/toe again makes the day

Nice one

Felt still as good as 8 years ago. Probably a bit harder now because of one hold in crux has crumbled from 4 finger edge to 3 finger edge this spring.

The full line, finally after 10 years of trying! Was a bit too short for the FA and SA beta so had to stick to my own, a bit more direct one for the first move and couple of next moves. No matter how good the friction was or how strong I felt first move didn't go more than 10 times during these 10 years. Hence the personal upgrade to 8B+ with this beta.

Climbs better than it looks, did not feel much morpho

Nice moves, could be 7C if your shorter. Dyno method was nice though.

Easily up to it's grade, if you start from the jug and are shorter. Nice not everyday moves, on very polished holds though

Good one

3rd ascent. True to it's name, didn't go until friction was good enough. Only one or two hard moves, depending on the beta that suits you. Nice addition indeed!

Nothing special about this one.

Even better version

Typical Font, feels bad slippery until you have the right position

Good for training purposes, more climbing more fun!

Again, at the end of the trip it feels easy. Just for warmup for hypothesis. Damn, it was so close now!

Even better and a bit harder than the stand start.

Nice top out on slopers

Even better top out, compression with slopers

When you got the body position right and have the right shoe with the right heel it goes. Font at it's best

Just training to get into shape for projects, felt easy now with correct beta despite the slippery conditions and hurting arms.

2nd try, nice mantle

Perfect compression on brilliant holds. So tired on this one as well

One of the best slopers for right hand deserved a good battle.

Suberb

My style

Harder for me than left one

Good one

Finally, what a bastardo

Felt a bit better than stand start back in the days

No fun with new shoes.

Technical and powerful compression moves on quite small holds. Even though single moves felt relatively easy linking them needed perfect friction and topping it sub zero temps. Props to Osmo finding maybe an easier way to do the crux move. Personally felt like an 8B but start is easier if you are taller.

Won't get closer to font on granite than this. Superb line! Start is just powerful, top out is the one that needs good friction.

Excellent slab on small but good edges and dyno to perfect sloper at the end.

Soft eliminate, eliminated it even more to make it better

By skipping all the small holds it was really good.

Very soft, nice last move by skipping small holds

Soft, in few tries. Climbs better than it looks.

Small and powerfull. It's all about feet once again.

Nice little boulder with good moves. It is all about the feet.

Awesome compression on edge and sidepulls with nice dyno in the end.

Cold weather might save your skin. Some holds are good, a bit sharp though.

Good edges, cold weather.

Climbs good on nice holds.

In few tries with good beta from Jari P. Good moves with best quality of holds on this block

Almost morpho, good moves though

Good long moves on good edges. Nice thumb catch seals the deal. Quality of the stone is not so good though, it might still break.

warmp up for project, still the best line in Oulu

for warm up.. again. Still brilliant!

For once a bit more complicated sequence.

As close to font top out as you could get on granite slopers

On last day it felt like font 7B+ or even easier. Good compression on slopers and crimps all the way.

Another one that felt quite easy on this trip. Surprised myself though climbing it with barely no skin left on my finger tips. Proud of sending this morpho finally.

With no skin left again for the end of the day. Sloupers can't get much better than on this one.

With hook of course and one finger pocket.

A dream come true! Took only about an hour and under ten tries on this trip. Kept it together the second time I got the small edge with two fingers thanks to Nalle's beta about hook placement!

It's all about movement.

Second try. Felt so easy thanks to Dr G's good beta.

Missed the flash by cooking with feet.

Cool line and nice moves. Had to use completely different beta though.

Great line, felt easier with super friction

most obvious line up on the rock.

Acrobatic and physical, amazing movement. It took about 18 days this year, mostly in good conditions and countless desperate tries to find beta many years before. Low start is next but it will be very hard.

Brilliant, almost like in font

A bit reachy but just one move.

One of the best. Went on 2nd try today in humid conditions, wtf!

Quick repeat for fun and showing beta, link up is so close.

The pure arete, don't use the little stone on the right. Nice compression moves and hooks all the way. Could be harder or not.

Another acrobatic classic with perfect stone quality. It's amazing how many different kind of problems ängesbyn has to offer

For warmup

Another warm up for the project

Propably more like 7C+, a lot harder than build to last for example. Climbs good and hard all the way. Strange that could not send this at the start of the trip, but it was last try with mind set to motion that counted.

Some weird wrestling on slopy surfaces

Another world class boulder! Good compression moves with excellent pinches and slopers.

first lesser problem in ängesbyn

Hook and compression with perfect holds. Almost like in font. Could be harder or not.

Delicate moves on good edges with hooks and dyno from sloper to perfect top arete! So good!

Is so good

Amazing moves

FA. Nice almost full span catch from good undercling and small edge.

Always had thought crux was the hook move, not the end.

First repeat after crux hold broke. Isn't much harder though. Went on first try after intense training week in font.

Nice poco jump for warm up

Went easily now on few tries.

Another obvious gem we have always just walked by.

Always thought I could not reach the first catch. 1cm less wingspan and it would have been either a broken nose or impossible. Cool inverted poco jump beta did it. Proud of sending this one!

3 times in a row for the camera. Still a nice compression line.

Somehow had never done this the original style. Much cooler that way

Nice slab

One of the most beautiful lines in the Northern Finland. Rock quality is simply superb! Sitstart adds 6 hard moves to Turvasanat. It's all about heinous hook and compression on bad, sloping and smooth surfaces. Felt a lot harder than any 8Bs I've climbed or tried before so had to propose 8B+. Time will tell where the grade settles. The main thing is that it is now done!

Without arete

nice slopers, good moves

direct topout to jungle book sitstart

One of the best! should've done it 1st try when the flow was on, but it needed some 8 tries more. Quite similar but maybe a bit easier than no man's land assis in Pyhäntä

8A+ in topo

Beautiful 40 degree overhanging arete in unbelievable landscape, sitstart adds three a bit harder moves to stand start

Pretty tough nut to crack when you always try it last. Maybe more like 7C+ than 7C. The lower sitstart project will be awesome.

High ball top out to Always broken stand start, all in all about 20 moves in continuous overhang. A thing of pure beauty and high as hell. Big thanks to Anton for good spirit and support. You really should not fall from the last hook moves! Video on blog soon!

Sabamies to Urpojen seurakunta. The most obvious direct topout to sabamies, 12 moves on small edges getting smaller on every move. Top out to the left.

Ladamies assis linkup to Urpojen seurakunta, 8A/8A+ to 7C/7C+ so 8A+ propably

Direct topout of Sabamies. Standstart from two pinches, take three really small edges, lock off to arete and topout to the left. Topout right via drunken woods is for pussies.

Assis to Kuollut papukaija. Bad ass boulder, only three moves, no idea about the grade. Maybe 7C+/8a. Video on blog.

First repeat. Did it twice in a row with two tiny crimps, original sloper beta felt a bit morpho to me. Nice highball, shame it is a bit eliminate.

It was all about hook again

Stand start to La gaule

It's all about beta, the hook.

With hook so brilliant!

30 mins and 4 tries for the jump start. Rest was easy with already figured out beta.

A classic font sloper problem! With hook there is always hope. After figuring out the beta, the hook, the rest was easier.

Thanks to good beta from Sami R and Marko it took only 2 hours! A bit rough edges but absolutely a classic! Propably 8A since the hold broke

Third ascent to physical and sustained traverse of beautiful slopers and two small crimps. My style, hooked it all the way.

Excellent but slippery mantel. Felt like Font topout in magic wood.

Almost Flash, went then on 5th try. Thanks to hirvi beta again

1st try, cool moves!

One of the best

Nice moves with crossunder from hook, no dynoing needed

First ascent! Finally, the full arete.

First ascent!

Cool hooks, some compression and dynamic moves with small edges on steep 70 degree overhang.

Heelhook seems to be the way. Nice sloupers.

Nice lock off from hook

Tricky start for tired legs

First try this year

4th. try, jump start to decent edge and delicate top out

Excellent sandstone like in font. One of the best, especially with the top out a classic!

Beautiful 40 degree overhanging arete in unbeliveable landscape

First ascent. The lines get better the further you get

First ascent. Pure boulder, only two moves

Second try on third climbing day, this time for warm up

Could be 8A, felt harder than hitman

Last day last route first try, good warm up saves the day. Long jug traverse link up to hammas finger crack finish. Harder than hammas extension

Felt definitely harder than Dodo stand start or almost the same than supermartikainen ss later on the same day with my beta. Fourth day in a row so no idea about the grade 7C/B

Wrong beta, third try

Thanks Dr. G for perfect beta

Nice toe hook

So easy now with heel hook, 3 tries for warm up

Just heel hooks all the way

Nice slopy edges and pinches

Despite the rock with sharp crystals bold line with cool moves

should've done it on the first try in the spring already. Hard week and weekend behind, probs to the lads yelling me to the top!

First ascent! The best line in Oulu area

Cool arete!

What a picturescue setting for a boulder problem

Cool mantel

First ascent, could be a bit harder than 7B if you cannot reach to good slopers

Could very well be 8A+, feels harder than ladamies definitely. +20 day's effort. About 20 degrees overhanging face with only small edges on crack. Hard deadpoint moves with high hook.

Nice hook with perfect slopers for sore skin! 7BC? no idea

First ascent! Could be 7c+ now when an easier method was found to Hermano ciervo

First ascent!

few tries, 8A version so damn close.

Hook with flag

First ascent! Fingery and sustained

Nice

Excellent overhang near kivimies

Eventually, so nice!

orig style,nice swing

tough

Sweet

Nice one handed swing!!

nice

Pure balance

Nice lock offs on steep rock, could be easier

Harder than PMR 7C/+

First ascent!

First ascent!

First ascent!

nice hooks on overha

Amazing overhang

First ascent!

First ascent!

Nice slouping traverse

More like 7A+/7B

First ascent!

First ascent!

One of the coolest 7As

Nice one!

Nice Dyno

Maybe 7B+

First ascent!

First ascent!

Stand start. One move wonder

maybe 7B+