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Gandalf Main
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  • 1
    Gamle rev, 6a+
    (Old Fox) The attractive twinned groove system in the centre of the face gives sustained and well-protected jamming and laybacking. Popular and worthwhile. Start below a black slab (sometimes wet) below the main corner. FA. Ed Webster, Thorbjørn Enevold 25.7.1993. FA. (Revungen) Asgeir Larsen, Jonatan Rask 6.2007.
  • 2
    Gandalf, 5
    A Lofoten classic up the highest part of the cliff with three good pitches - interesting, varied and well protected. Start up the left-facing groove behind a tree and a large boulder at the right side of the face. FA. Arild Meyer, Kjell Ove Storvik, Brynjar Tollefsen 5.1978. Not by today's standard route. They climbed left around the pitch 2 overhang, then aid climbed straight through the crack above the Eagle's Nest ledge. Later parties added the now traditional second and third pitches and free climbed the Eagle's Nest finish.
  • 3
    Guns 'n' Roses, 6a
    A nice varied route - steep, satisfying, well protected and on excellent rock. The route sees plenty of action. There has been plenty of discussion about the star rating of this climb - you will have to do it so you can join in! FA. Sjur and Håvard Nesheim climbed the vertical hand-crack on pitch 2 in 1979, calling it Kvite spøkesla (White Ghosts) because it was the first time they had never used chalk. Odd-Roar Wiik and Gunnar Austrheim climbed all of the pitches 2 and 3 in 1990, using a start up the crack system round to the right of pitch 1. This route described was first climbed by Thorbørn Enevold and Trul Seines in 6.1993.
  • 4
    Gollum, 5
    An excellent and well-protected crack climb up the parallel crack system a few metres to the left of route Gandalf. Thought by some to be better than its classy neighbour, offering more consistent climbing and no thrutchy wide bits. FA. Arild Meyer, Sjur Nesheim 1985.
  • 5
    Tromsø ekspressen, 6a+
    (The Tromsø Express) A fine route up the most prominent of the parallel grooves in the centre of the cliff. Three well-protected crack pitches make for a great route. FA. Håvard and Sjur Nesheim 1979 or 1980. They may have used a different finish to the one described. DA (Pitch 2) Ed Webster, Thorbjørn Enevold 1993.
  • 6
    Smeagul, 5+
    Plugs the gap between routes Gollum and Lost Gandalf with some decent climbing. FA Jonas Dahlstrup, Simon Svendsen 2008.

There are 16 routes that have not yet been drawn on a topo image. See full list of routes from Gandalf Main .