Description

🚶‍♂️ 15' - ⛰️ 1660 MSL - 🧭 NESW - ☀️ generally shady by trees

El dorado is one of the newest bouldering areas of Orco valley, halfway between the Rifugio Massimo Mila and Tatratea sectors.
El dorado collects almost a hundred problems from 5 to 7B mainly, but there are also a couple of harder lines. Some of the bests are Chi sono io per dire di no, Pitagora, P di Popeye, Dadada, Il Bombeo, Asso bello. As in the whole valley, the rock is superb and grants a high friction.
Boulders are spreaded within a nice forest, turning out to be quite shady. The area has an average altitude of 1660 meters. The combination of shade and altitude make El dorado a great climbing area from April to October.
This area still has a huge potential and every year it is improved during the Orcoblocco climbing meeting. Approach is not too long, just pay attention while crossing the river due to the stony ground.

The environment that is welcoming us is the Orco valley. Here are a few rows to give it the importance it deserves!
Valle dell’Orco (Orco’s valley) is clearly a stunning area for mountain lovers, well known for its unspoiled nature and its huge amount of climbing routes that run on perfect slabs and amazing cracks.

The Orco river has carved this narrow valley from West to East, through the Levanne massif (South) and the Gran Paradiso Park (North). The valley is about 6 km long, rising from an altitude of about 600 meters above sea level up to 2500. From the valley floor it is possible to admire the summits of Gran Paradiso (4061 m.a.s.l.) and the three Levanne (Levanna Centrale 3619 m.a.s.l.). There is also a nice artificial lake called Ceresole lake.

There are plenty of paths to practice with snowshoes, to mountain-biking or simply walking. One could also find severe hiking trails, requiring a lot of effort and good physical preparation. The valley is equipped with many alpine refuges.
During the winter, the coast of Ceresole lake turns into a cross-country ski track, while downhill skiing can be practiced in Chiapili and Locana on Alpe Cialma.
There is good news also for fishing lovers: there is a nice reserve that is open from the last Sunday of February until November.

Ok, stop to the valley description digression and let's go back to climbing.
Valle dell’Orco is really famous for its amazing trad climbing routes. What makes these routes so beautiful? It is the rock! The rock is the super high quality gneiss of Gran Paradiso area that formed nice crags featuring compact slabs and perfect cracks.
Nowadays, alongside great classic routes, one can find also more modern lines of great commitment and also short and well-equipped climbs. And there is certainly no shortage of beautiful bouldering areas with a crazy amount of problems!
The area is often cold thanks to high altitude (1000+ meters), so the Summer turns out to be a good season for climbing here.

Climbing in Valle dell’Orco is improving every year and still has a lot of potential. We kindly ask you to respect the rock and the nature. Help us to keep this beautiful valley clean!

History

The mecca of crack climbing: the Orco Valley!
It was above all in the second half of the seventies that a large group of climbers (coming mainly from Torino), following the dream of Californian myth of the Yosemite Valley, traced a series of itineraries that seemed futuristic. Thanks to that, the valley was nicknamed as the "Yosemite Valley of Piemonte".
But Valle dell’Orco does not offer only classic trad climbing lines!
In the last years climbing continued to improve, giving birth to many single pitch lines and beautiful boulder areas. And something new is coming up every year!

El dorado was born in the same years of the Tatratea sector. Its development started in the 2017 and it is still pushing thanks to the Orcoblocco bouldering meeting.