Harald Swen

Erg vies vandaag en dan is het inhangen van de 4e haak tamelijk link. 't is dat ik ruim over had. Had een stuk aangenamer geweest indien H3 en H4 wat lager hadden gezeten. En dan een extra H5.

De moeilijkheidsgraad wordt voor een belangrijk deel bepaald door modder en stof. 6a+ schoon, 6c vies. Yek!

Voelt lastig aan voor 5c. Een plusje extra klopt beter denk ik. Twee lastige pasjes.

Prima route.

Niet morpho, wel blok. Kort of lang maakt hier echt niet uit. Kan zowel links van de haken of rechts van de haken geklommen worden. Na de boulder is het een makkie.

Harde start. Beetje warm en vreselijke zweethanden, dus lastig de graad te benoemen: 6c/+. Best aardige route! Had 'm eigenlijk een tijdje terug onsight, maar moest met de natte grepen en modder die er op lag bij de laatste pas blokken. De instappas is voor mij de crux. Leuke route.

Leuke route met plateaus om op te rusten afgewisseld met steilere passages. 5a?

Don't be put off by the dirty, broken and downright shitty start. Afterwards the climbing improves. The roof is the crux and, though improbable, really goes at 7a. Two very cool sequences in a row

After a broken intro both the rock and climbing improve. The crux is short and distinct. Not slipping of the slippery holds in relatively warm weather was my personal crux. 7a+ is probably the right grade, even though after a first try I thought it was a proper 7b.

Heel erg overgewaardeerd. Zelfs zonder de spleet maximaal 5c. Een al al greep en tree. Apropos spleet: ik vermoed dat het pure feit dat hier een spleet zit schrik aanjaagt, met een te hoge moeilijkheidswaardering als gevolg. Spleetklimmen is een elementaire vorm van klimmen. Als je het niet kan of er angst voor hebt moet je niet de route opwaarderen, maar aan je eigen kunnen werken. Met Ettringen is er op niet al te grote afstand een perfecte locatie im dit te doen. Genoeg over de waardering: de route is mooi en had 3 maal zo lang mogen zijn.

Short lived. No clue about the grade, since it was hot and slippery. 6b+ to 6c+.

Quite nice route. The holds even have some friction, which is rare in Maizeret. Would not call it a detour per se at the roof. It's just left of the bolt and straight back right sequence with 3 smaller crimps. Good fun. A larger detour left towards the 7b is also possible, but thats skipping the hard climbing on this route.

Leuker en iets lastiger dan de linkervariant. Echter ook geen kingline...

Mooi einde in de geul. De rest is zozo.

Supernice route of almost 35m. Hard finish though. Needs better cleaning/gluing. Still a lot of cross on and around the route. The climbing and setting are amazing!

Nice climb. Being tall helps :-)

A hard 6c, a tricky overhanging corner, a chossy chimney, a ledge, a corner and an surprisingly easy roof. Deserves more traffic to clean up.

easy jug climb. Fun!

Very, very cool slabclimbing on small edges. But its not pure slab, it's about finding the right way up on opposing holds and edges. The finale up the pillar (not to be underestimated) is great as well, and as a bonus clipping the anchor is easy.

Big moves on good holds. Fun.

Bit of a head game. Never hard, but always tricky. Breng plenty of small gear, comfy shoes (hairy balls?) and a patient belayer. Not one to easily forget :-)

looks easy, climbs not that easy though

Nice crack/mantle. Cool line. Not to hard, but a bit mental to mantle. Really weird to fail/fall like I did today. Screwed up the onsight a couple of years ago in the sun.

Brilliant and very well protected route on the left hand arete. Bomber gear all the way. Tricky footmoves lead to an awkward slap for the sloper. Lovely moves lead to the edge of the steep face.

Really good powerfull climbing with an amazing traverse and a tricky end. Not my style as a weakling, but I loved it.

Tough route. Not 6c. That final move....

So cool. Amongst the best of the best.

Climbed the route in the wet and covered in muck. Still quite a nice route. Can't really comment on the grade since the conditions were so shitty.

Climbed the route in the wet and covered in muck. It was horribly slippery. Cant possible say something positive about it.

Climbed the route in the wet and covered in muck. Felt horrible. Cant possible say something positive about it.

Steep start, nive slab with crack.

Two times a highstep onto a horizontal edge in the lower part forms the crux. Very good friction for the feet.

Tricky move low down. Very good friction for the feet.

Very cool route. Good moves all the way. Climbs better than it looks.

Easy start when tall, with the crux in the traverse at the top (in the sun anyway).

Perfect hands from bottom till top with plenty footholds as a bonus. Rest your way up. Echt max. een 5-je vergeleken met spleetroutes elders. Jammen is een basale klimtechniek. Het is suf om een hoge moeilijkheidswaardering aan de route toe te kennen omdat klimmers hier hun klimtechniek niet op orde hebben. Zo werkt het niet.

Not the best route, a bit escapable. Well bolted. Take care with the loose flake in the easy starting route (to the right of the 4/5th bolt)

Careful with the large flake to the right of bolt 4 and 5. It will come off easily. Someone should head up with a crowbar.

Very good route. Beware of the huge loose blocks between bolt 4 and 5 after the intermediate belay. They should be removed. Contrary to what is written in the descrition the route does not finish at the belay of Globulles but at the belay of La Nunez.

Must do route. De klassieke 5+ waardering slaat nergens op. Dit is zeker een 6a+. Misschien zelf 6b. Om de stoere praat voor te zijn: dit zou ook in een klassieke route in de Dolomieten geen 5+ zijn. Been there, done that. Niks 5+. Basta.

Nice route. Not to hard and well protected.

climbs nicer than it looks.

Really good climb. Not much harder than the route to right. More cruxy. Sweaty conditions made the holds feel slippery on the crux.

Whoohaha. 8-, my ass. Would get ca. 6b in Urner granit or on a Mont Blanc slab. Stupid to place only 1 bolt in this spot. Why not 2 so the climb can be an enjoyable 6b+?

very nice route. second best on the wall.

Fun route. Very well protected with Totems.

Cool line.

All about the first 4 meters. The wet crack afterwards made it tricky.

Scary to think about leading the route. Not easy at all. Toprope onsight.

1st and 2nd bolt a bit to high. Fun climbing though. The part after the last bolt can be climbed directly on the arete (a bit scary), or with a detour to the left (good placements for a blue and red ballnut, or 2 x blue) which is a lot less scary. Less fun as well ;-)

Tricky start that can be protected tough not easily. Suprisingly difficult stemming and laybacking afterwards. Not to be underestimated :-)

bit high 1st bolt. easy and well protected dihedral.

one move wonder. Crouch start on corner since a sit is not possible @6B (or very very hard).

Fun but thugish route. Big holds, no move too hard. Felt like 6b without any convention (like in the linked vids), 6c finishing straight up with one foot on the sidewall (will post a vid) and 7a/7a+ish when not using the entire right block/wall. Lacked the campus/lock-off power to do it that way.

Nipplegrating top-out... wear a T-shirt :-). Fun. Slightly harder from the sit.

Fun, despite the short heigth and seamingly contrived line. Avoiding the tree was easier than it appeared.

Fun lowball. Easy and static with the right bèta(and length).

Very elegant looking line with good mix of jugs, sloping holds and a crimp. Bit scary committing to the final move left with the wall behind. Don't pop of the crimp... Luckily the finish is easy. Good and fyn one!

Cool problem - both looks and climbing wise. I dislike sitstarts but this one has a cool move. Dirty and humid topout was scary and hard.

A bolt has been added. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt - a (n almost) groundfall is still possible.

Bit humid and dirty today. Bouldery start which eases off after the first 2 bolts. Fun hold inbetween 2nd and 3rd bolt. Easy and fun finish on mostly solid handjams. Mayby 7a+ when clean and dry? A lot easier than Donkey Kong for me.

Deserves a star when going for the highest sloper.

Removed some loose flakes from the route and the start. 7a-ish.

Should have waited for cooler weather. Good route for an onsigth.

very cool route

superb!

Hard to read crux. But really fun move! Good route. Hard for 7a.

nice and long

Very nice problem! Tried for several days, but slipped out of the 'fingerlock’/did not trust it. Lower temps and humidity made it feel solid. Cool one!

A lot harder than both seperate problems (6A and 6B+). The connexion adds a lot. Good one!

Started with both hands left (small hold and a sloper) and eliminated the right hand hold. Works with lying start (heelhook left, right leg far down).

New addition? Couldn't do Jihad, so went for this line which suited me more. Gradewise about the same as Jihad. Bit of a finger-wrecker though. 7A+ seems fair.

Powerful, gymstyle.

Very good! Fun topout - not easy when tired! If the block had been higher and more dramatic this would be a king line (for its grade). Start with 2 hands at the leftmost hold in the crack and left foot with heelhook. Good holds, bad feet all the way. Each footmove required both my feet off, 7 times in a row. Not usual at this grade!

standing start.

Nice and interesting topout on the left. Quality rock and moves.

sitstart on undercling beneath the white line. topout on slabby wall behind crack to jug.

cool moves!

One move wonder made easy by a kneebar. Nice move though.

burly climbing

Seems 6B+ to me when climbed with the RH wall at the start and with the RH crack. Defo 6C+ when climbed with only the holds on the arete. Nice moves both ways.

fantastic problem!

Cool feature! Grade depends heavily on where you start. Both hands on the logical cluster of crimps should be around 7a. Anybody done the sit?

standing start