Alex Biale

lives in Napa, CA — enjoys sport, trad and boulders @ 5.13b — has visited and listed 22 crags in 3 countries — is a member of Boulder Bashin, SLO Climbing!, Tahoe Climbin!, Smith Rockin, Sea to Sky, Portland Circuit, Leavenworth Lovin, Joe's Valley Bouldering and Bouldering in Boulder!

Wants to visit

Favourite crags and routes

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Owl Torr in the area of Santa Maria, CA, USA
Owl Torr is a steep, 20 meter cliff with routes ranging from 11d to 14+ projects. It's a great cliff if you like pockets and want to work on your power endurance!! Once you get to about Santa Maria, CA coming from the CA 101 you're going to want to take the 166 East about 25 miles in. You'll see a big barn and sign off to the left of the road with an obvious turnout. Take this and drive along the dirt road for a mile or so. Park on the left and follow the trail into the hills where you will find a steep cliff with FUN climbing!
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Mickey's Beach in the area of San Francisco, CA, USA
Mickey's Beach is located about a mile south of the town of Stinson Beach on CA-1. It is north of San Francisco and about 3.5 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge on US-101/CA-1. Take the CA-1 North/Stinson Beach exit and stay left at the Tam Junction. The bouldering on Mickey's Beach consists of about 65 problems, all ranging from the grades V0--V10. It is made up of Serpentine and Greywacke Sandstone.
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Bishop's Peak in the area of Santa Maria, CA, USA
Bishop's Peak. BOOM. This peak is located in the beautiful town of San Luis Obispo, CA. You can pick it out from the other peaks in SLO by the large "P" that lies on the famous P-Wall, the tallest wall on Bishop's Peak. This peak is home to several different cliffs spread out all around the peak. The most popular one, due to it's convenience and grade variation, is the Cracked Wall. The hike up to this cliff is super easy and well worth it for a fun day of climbing in the shade with good friends and a packed lunch!! On this wall you'll find routes ranging from 5.6 to a possible 5.12+. Most of the routes on the Cracked Wall can be accessible by TR. The harder routes that lie in the middle of the wall, however, require a lead. The P-Wall, a little father along the steep trail, is the cliff for those of you who want to get your trad on! There are also a couple of fun and moderate multi-pitch routes on this wall. Now if none of this seems appealing enough to you and you're feeling like finding something NEW and snagging your FA... then head to the very tip top of Bishop's Peak. Here you will find a very steep, short, and nearly blank wall. If you're feeling strong and have a bolt gun and the crimp strength to pull onto the wall, this would be a very beautiful and amazing line!!
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Mount Saint Helena in the area of Windsor, CA, USA
Mt. St. Helena, my hometown crag! This crag is located about half way up the mountain and has three main sectors: The Farside, The Bubble, and The Bear. The Farside has a high concentration of routes around 5.7-5.9. Some really fun stuff!! The Bubble is the most popular cliff on the crag. There are routes graded 5.7-5.11b/c. The most famous route on the wall, The Bubble 5.10d, is a fun and juggy 45 foot route that heads up the left side of middle wall. The Bear is my favorite of the three. This crag is about 100 yards long and about 50 feet tall. It is a great wall because the grades continually increase in difficulty as you move from left to right. If this sector had about 50 more routes and was 100 feet taller, The Bear would be a worldwide classic for hard sport climbers!!
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Bishop in USA
Bishop, CA.. where to even begin with this magnificent destination? I guess I'll start with the obvious: Bishop has boulders, a lot of them... and most of them are really really tall! Bishop consists of multiple climbing areas, both bouldering and sport, but prominently bouldering. Each area has its own unique feel to it, its own special quality that makes it stand out form the others. The Buttermilks is the main sector with the highest concentration of hard problems and most highballs. The granite here is SHARP!! If you plan on climbing here, warm up in the Sad or Happy Boulders to save your tips and invest in some serious amounts of Climb On!! It does not matter what I say or how poetic I am with my choice of words, there is no possible way for me to describe how immaculate and perfect the bouldering is here. Everywhere you go, around every corner, behind every classic boulder problem, lies another great five star problem!! Bishop has an abundance of crimps, a multitude of slopers and even a few jugs. This place has it all. There is so much history that makes Bishop a world wide bouldering hotspot. With climbs like The Mandala V12, Ambrosia V10, The Buttermilker V12/13, The Hulk V6, Checkerboard V8, Evilution V10, Lucid Dreaming V16, and MANY other 5 star classics, Bishop is one of the premier bouldering spots in the world and is a personal favorite of mine. Enjoy everybody!! And remember... bring a couple extra crash pads and a REALLY good spotter for those crazy highballs.
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Rodellar - MascĂșn in the area of Huesca, Spain
Rodellar... heaven. This is my favorite climbing spot in the world! It is filled with immaculate towers and walls of blue, white, and orange limestone. Make sure you bring AT LEAST a 70m rope and a grigri. You could climb here for your whole life and and still not climb it all. Plenty of undeveloped crags waiting so get the okay from the locals, bring your drill, and let the magic begin.
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The Red River Gorge, or the Red, is the sport climbing mecca of the United States for climbers who enjoy long, pumpy, and a more open-handed-oriented style of climbing. With such a multitude of routes ranging from 5.6-hard 5.14, The Red is a climbing destination that will keep you coming back for more every time. The sandstone is sticky if the conditions are right and the local climbers are a handy tool to help you navigate around if you don't have a guidebook... but bring a guidebook. And do not forget your stick-clip! For those of you who have been to some areas in the region of Catalunya, Spain, The Red has a similar style to places such as Rodellar. Overall, Kentucky's Red River Gorge is an amazing place to climb with great rock, perfect routes, friendly climbers and one of the best pizza shacks in the nation.. Miguel's Pizza!!
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The Monolith is the second most popular climbing area in Pinnacles National Monument and has high rock quality with a lot of great routes! This East Face is obvious.. however, watch out for crowds!
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Smith Rock State Park in the area of Bend, OR, USA
Smith Rock State Park is any climber's amusement park! The overwhelming amount of rock here leaves all is awe. The 1000 ft. cliffs, the 150 ft. long sport routes and traditional routes, The Monkey Face, and even the scattered boulders offer climbers from every background an opportunity to have a good time. The majority of the climbing lies at the bottom of a canyon that you have to hike to from your car/campsite. The canyon is split by a gorgeous river that provides a tempting cool down for your feet! The camping at Smith Rock State Park is $5 for a day pass or $30 for an annual one. Once you wake up, take a shower, make a hearty breakfast, make the 10 minute hike to the bottom of the canyon, you are no more than 20 minutes from every route that Smith has to offer. The trails are in great condition and the bolts and anchors are continually kept up. Come to Smith Rock State Park and see how many of 1,800+ routes this playground has to offer!

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