Watermill feels like a climbing sector that was designed to be perfect. With an approach of less than 5 minutes, sun in the morning, and shade from noon onward, it offers ideal conditions for a day of sending.
The sector covers a full spectrum of styles and difficulties, from crimps to pockets to stalactites, and from technical slabs to vertical walls to steep, juggy overhangs. And to top it all off, you get a stunning view of the sea, what more could you ask for?
Well, here's the only downside, the old water mill, which gives the crag its name, is also the main source of fresh water for Kyparissi and with that comes mosquitoes during the warmer months. So when the sun starts to dip, be sure to bring some insect repellent!
Kykamino is a relatively new sector, developed by Australian climber Chris with help from Bianca, a traveler from Vienna. Located just above Watermill, Kykamino offers a very different experience—with a unique mix of holds and climbing styles.
There aren't many routes here yet, but what’s been bolted is well worth a try. If you're looking to explore something off the main circuit and test your versatility, Kykamino is a great option.
The first routes at this sector were equipped by D. Stravogenis in 2005, followed by contributions from Y. Torelli, G. Kopalides, and A. Theodoropoulos in 2007. In 2011, A. Berry and B. de Lattre added more lines, with C + C Remy continuing the development in 2012.
Four years later, in 2016, additional routes were established as part of the Kyparissi Climbing Park program. That same year, P. Girard contributed several lines, eager to leave his mark on the sector. Later, Micha bolted a new route in the steeper section, and a few easier climbs were added in 2018 and 2019.
In 2021, Klemen spent considerable time at the sector, often seen with his newborn child and his trademark endless motivation, bringing fresh attention and energy to the area. That same year, Chris, Charlotte, Josh, and I added a handful of new lines, expanding the sector even further. Then in 2022, traveling legend D. Brasco joined the story by adding two more routes, continuing the steady evolution of this special place.
Like much of Kyparissi, many of the routes here were unfortunately bolted with material not 100% suitable for seaside environments. The proximity to the sea has caused gradual corrosion, and many lines are now in need of rebolting.
In addition, several routes suffer from anchors placed too high, a byproduct of rushed and poorly planned equipping in the early phases. It’s hoped that future rebolting efforts will not only improve safety with corrosion-resistant gear but also correct some of these initial oversights for better route flow and climber comfort.
