Who hasn't seen images of this fantastic limestone wall with it's proud lines? Or heard the stories about the impressive ascents of all the top climbers from around the world, including local hero Beat Kammerlander?
Many consider this as one of the best, if not the best, crag for hard sport climbing in Switzlerland.
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Visiting this majestic crag brings it all back to live and if you are lucky you will witness an ascent of the kingline "Speed" by Beat Kammerlander. This is guaranteed to include a proper celebration at Sämis "Grillhuesli Voralpsee", which is a little kiosk halfway along the approach. If you stay until Sämi is closing, you will have a good chance to catch a ride, hanging off the side of his car, back to parking :) Good fun!
Climbers are very welcome here. Sämi & Co are very well informed who climbs what and who is visiting "their" crag. So play by the rules and you will very soon be part of this amazing community.
to the practicalities:
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Reception is poor at the crag, mostly only good enough to send messages. So be sure to download this topo beforehand. All routes names are written at the base of each line.
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To have fun on the good routes at this crag one should be able to climb 7c. "Newbies" typically start on Paradigma and then move on to Lucy and Grenzgänger. Keep in mind that bolting is rather sparse and the grades will feel quite hard, especially for the first visits. The routes to the far right of the wall are shorter, easier but also considered less worthwhile.
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The wall stays dry in the rain for quite a while, even it rains heavily. Amazing conditions have been reported in the worst weather. The conditions are generally best in May/June and then again in autumn. A cold day with some Föhn will provide the best grip.
