This perma-dry little crag is the perfect spot for the hardcore indoor climber wanting to test their mettle outside for the first time. Powerful, gym-style moves on small holds without a huge walk in.
The downside is the distinct lack of anything easier than 7a, sometimes making warming up slightly tricky. Still, for those in the mid to high 7s, it really isn't a problem, with climbs like Gap of Rohan and Ride the Wild Smurf seeing plenty of repeats on most visits.
The conditions are often good too - especially when the weather can be wet elsewhere or the rock still damp from the previous day - while the location offers a handy spot for climbers to the East and South of Betws y Coed and away from the holiday throngs that can often be found further into the tourist traps of Ogwen and the Llanberis Pass.
