Description

🔴 THIS AREA WATER LEVEL DEPENDENT, PLEASE SEE INFORMATION BELOW

Nuttallburg is the largest area with the easiest access for boulders on the banks of the New River. A long, beautiful drive down Keeneys Creek meanders past the bottom of Short Creek before ending at the Nuttallburg town ruins. The rock here is arguably the best in the entire region, bullet hard and often water polished. This guide has been split into different sectors within the whole of Nuttallburg, due to the widely varying directions and the long stretch of river encompassed by this area. Most importantly many of the boulders are water level dependent, best visited in late summer and early fall when the New is routinely at its lowest.

The moderates in this cluster are fantastic and varied, from the roof climbing of "As Above, So Below" to the committing and powerful "The Nose". The hike is short and the landings are good. The whole area is shaded by mid afternoon, year round, due to the hill on the opposing side of the river being tall and steep.

🚶‍♂️ Approach summary - Rugged. 4 to 5 minutes.
💎 Notable problems - "Gods Amongst Men" V1, "The Party Kill" V2, "Mysticism" V3", "The Occult" V5, "The Nose" V7, "As Above, So Below" V7
💧 Dry time - Hours. When the landing is not under water this area dries extremely quickly. No additional wait time is needed once the rock is visibly dry.
🍂❄️🍃 Seasonal Beta - Best in the late summer and early fall when the New River is at its lowest.
🌊 Water Level Beta - These boulders are highly water level dependent. We have not determined the exact water level these boulders are climbable at, however, on the Fayette Station American Whitewater gauge, if the water is -0.5 ft then all boulders should be climbable, the Nose is likely climbable up to 1 or 2 feet.
Fayette Station Gauge --> https://www.americanwhitewater.org/content/Gauge2/detail/id/43472/
🚗 Drive from downtown Fayetteville - 33 minutes
🚗 Drive from Summersville - 46 minutes
🚽 Bathrooms - Pit toilets are a bit down the road at the main Nuttallburg parking lot.
📶 Cell phone service - 2/5, spotty. There is spotty service in the parking pullout and from standing on top of the boulders.
🐶 Dogs - Must be leashed at all times. This is National Park land.

Routes on Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders
14 boulder 1 Likes
Browse topos
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Aaron Schneider
A. Schneider
from Mount Lookout, West Virginia
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Nuttallburg - The Nose Boulders

The area is access sensitive!

🔴 The boulders in this area are water level dependent. Please see the "Description" page for river water level information.
🔴 ACCESS WARNING: Walking along railroad tracks is illegal and DANGEROUS. This not only includes the tracks themselves, but the cleared land around the tracks as well. If you happen to be near tracks, keep your eyes and ears open for trains. If one is approaching, get as far as possible from the tracks. This is not only the safe thing to do, it's the polite thing to do. Trains can't stop. Don't make the conductor think they have any chance of running you or your dog over. Be respectful and polite to any railroad worker you see. This is VERY important to future access.

🚗 Driving Directions:
Please note that Keeneys Creek Rd is a long, winding, steep, mostly gravel road and only wide enough for one vehicle. It is usually navigable carefully with all vehicles, however is not maintained in the winter and will need 4wd for any ice and snow. This road regularly washes out in the spring after heavy rains. The beginning of the road goes through a neighborhood and close to several houses with children and pets, so please drive slowly.

From Fayetteville - turn right and drive on US-19N and cross the NRG bridge. Take the second right after the bridge onto Lansing-Edmond Road. Follow Lansing-Edmond road around many curves and turns, eventually driving down a steep hill to the town of Winona. After 6 miles on Lansing-Edmond Rd, turn RIGHT onto Keeneys Creek Rd at the stop sign. Follow this 3.8 miles down to a moderate sized pullout, immediately below the single house at the bottom of the road.

From Summersville - Head SOUTH on US-19S. Drive about 18 miles (depending on where you turn onto US-19) and take exit for US-60 E/Midland Trail. Turn LEFT off the exit onto US-60 E/Midland Trail. Drive 4.4 miles then turn RIGHT onto Lansing-Edmond Rd. Drive 2.1 miles then continue STRAIGHT onto Keeneys Creek Rd. Continue with the Fayetteville directions above.

🚶‍♂️Hiking Directions - There are two drainages with separate trails to access the boulders, one for The Nose boulder and the other for As Above, The Occult and the boulderable side of the Gods boulders. For both trails, hop the guard rail from the parking. Head left, UPstream, from the parking. You will come to the drainage to access As Above, The Occult and Gods boulders first, which heads down along the RIGHT side of a large boulder that has an old bridge foundation on top of it. Scramble all the way down to the river where you will find the As Above roof facing away from the river.

For The Nose boulder, similarly hop the guard rail and head left, UPstream, along the tracks, passing the drainage for the other boulders, before reaching another drainage with a retention wall and pipe. Slide down the UPstream side (far side from the parking) of the wall, then continue down the drainage to find The Nose boulder.